This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece of cloth to make up this piece.

We had already made the collar smaller and more cut away; we decided to make it a touch more. We had discussed the possibility of pockets with flaps, or even slits behind the front seams; we decided against both. The removal of the extended waistband, it was decided, was a good thing.

There was a short back-and-forth over the seam across the back. Davide had rounded it somewhat from the second fitting, aiming to align it with the shoulder line. I liked the fact it contrasted with my sloping shoulders, adding breadth. We compromised, with Davide promising to flatten the line in the final pattern.

We decided, finally, that a summer version of this would be nice, in cream linen. Or maybe sugar-bag blue? 

Photos: Luke Carby