This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece of cloth to make up this piece.


We had already made the collar smaller and more cut away; we decided to make it a touch more. We had discussed the possibility of pockets with flaps, or even slits behind the front seams; we decided against both. The removal of the extended waistband, it was decided, was a good thing.


There was a short back-and-forth over the seam across the back. Davide had rounded it somewhat from the second fitting, aiming to align it with the shoulder line. I liked the fact it contrasted with my sloping shoulders, adding breadth. We compromised, with Davide promising to flatten the line in the final pattern.

We decided, finally, that a summer version of this would be nice, in cream linen. Or maybe sugar-bag blue? 

Photos: Luke Carby


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Anonymous

Ouch!

Where would you actually wear such a garment?

Anonymous

Thank you. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.

wu ming

The curved darts in the front are elegant. In the top photo Davide resembles Alan Rickman. I mean that as a compliment.

E.H.R

Are you able to give us any pricing information for a project like this?

Nicolas from Kinowear

Can’t wait to see the final result. Chocolate brown or lighter ? You can keep it a surprise…

Anonymous

Davide really is an incredibly well-dressed man.

And the fit looks outstanding, I am very jealous of this project.

Jess Fleischer

This is indeed a very nice project! I think you did right in keeping it rather simplistic without the pockets. I am looking forward to see how the collar plays out in leather.

Robert Horst

Oh my goodness – I want to be you. Really nice jacket. I like the open collar shirt you’re wearing with it.

Robert Horst

Ok – I had to go back to Part 1 and re-read up to Part 3 to understand the jacket process. I originally thought the Part 3 WAS the finished jacket and was thinking – ‘my what thin leather’ only to realize later it was the pattern jacket.
After seeing that for what it was (finally) I wondered about making a pattern for a material like leather. Even though we can see the pattern jacket fits you (definitely!) the leather material has to be so much thicker than the cloth pattern – how do you really know how the connection between the various pieces of the jacket will look based on the pattern jacket? Is this just an approximation? I would think leather would be phenomenally unforgiving – so adjustments later might not be really possible.

Danielle Perret

Hi Simon,

The muslin looks great! I’m curious did you draft the arm hold and sleeve cap differently since you’re working with leather, if yes then how so?

Digregorio Francesco

Great

Anonymous

Love the cut of the trousers in the final shot.

Anonymous

How much would such trousers cost from A&S?

Broderick

This jacket is killer, love the color. Great photos