Five years ago, I’d never worn black jeans in my life. People didn’t really wear them when I was a kid, and until recently I didn’t really see them on people other than women and more fashion-forward guys.
That slowly started to change, perhaps as looks got darker and more tonal. I appreciated them more on friends like Lucas, and saw brands introducing them as well. Today, I wear black jeans easily as much as the more classic mid-blue or dark-indigo, and certainly more than white.
In fact, I think they’re a good example of the benefits of remaining open-minded about fashion. It rarely pays to follow trends slavishly, but it’s equally a shame to cut yourself off entirely. Fashions consistently refresh and reframe traditional clothes, and will sometimes reveal an interesting way they can work with your style.
After all, you inevitably got into clothing at a particular point in the history of fashion, and adopted many of its presumptions. It would seem a little capricious to never change in any way again.
I wrote about this open-minded filtering of fashions eight years ago, and it only seems truer today - even though my style has probably narrowed in that time.
The best argument will always be a good example, however, and I think black jeans are that example in my case.
I love jeans for their character, versatility and universality. But tailoring is my first love, so finding ways to wear the two together has been a long-running project.
Black jeans, I’ve found, are particularly good because when they fade they're basically as versatile with tailoring as dark-grey flannels. Not quite as smart of course, but just as good colour-wise.
I'd never considered this until I saw them reframed by popularity among friends and by fashion in general. I had my own perspective and that was shifted slightly; now they're a really useful and enjoyable part of my stye.
One hard thing about black jeans - and as a result, the thing PS readers ask about most - is how they much can be worn with staples like navy jackets and brown shoes.
Black jeans fit very easily into a tonal wardrobe of white, beige, taupe and so on - the palette that seems to define high-end casual wear at the moment (eg top image). But with other colours, tone and shade become quite important.
Yes, brown-suede shoes can work with black jeans (above), but it's easier the darker and colder the brown is and the more faded (so closer to grey) the jeans are.
With navy (so common in knitwear, even if you don't wear tailored jackets much) it's the same: easier the darker the navy is, and the greyer the black is (eg below).
I find you need less contrast between navy and black for it to work, in part because we're so used to dark colours together.
But accessories around the two also help - this is something men are often guilty of, considering two things in isolation rather than what else is worn around them. For example, a black leather belt and shoes immediately make the jeans look lighter, because of the contrast created with the shiny, flat-black leather (below).
And to all those that consider this obvious: I write because people ask, and chances are you also learnt this, just through observation and experimentation rather than instruction.
The nice thing about finding something new that works with your style is that it opens up a slightly different look, an adjacent and only subtly different option. Like revealing a different part of the map.
The same tweed jacket worn with black jeans rather than mid-blue has slightly different semiotics - it seems a little less trad, perhaps a little cooler. That might not be what you want to project of course, but it's a very easy thing to try, a little sideways step into that other part of the map.
The jeans shown here are from Brycelands or are vintage Levi's. Details at those links. If there are any looks above that you don’t recognise, let me know and I’ll link to the original articles.
We're always interested, of course, in how readers have uncovered similar little regions of their style map. (Sorry, the map metaphor seems so good, and I’ve been playing a lot of Zelda recently!)
See you in the comments.
Really nice piece, Simon. My own style has changed – or maybe I mean developed – so much from reading PS over the years, for which many thanks. Alongside loafers – which I resisted for so long and now wear approximately 93% of the time – black jeans are probably the biggest change I’ve made, in terms of particular preconceptions I had about clothes and style. I chanced my arm on a pair of Made in USA 501s on eBay and now think they’re my best-fitting jeans; I wore them on Monday and I’m wearing them as I type this. It’s helped me introduce and wear so may other shades into my wardrobe, and find different ways of wearing ones I already had.
Like I’m sure many men I have and do wear so much blue. I still love it, but I occasionally like to give myself a geeky challenge over the course of a week: how many days can I NOT wear anything blue. I’ve failed today because I’m wearing a chambray shirt – though quite grey-blue, so maybe I’ll give myself a pass. No one but me knows or cares I’m doing this, of course, but such is the life of a menswear nerd… And at some point I’ll probably take a fit pic and send it to my mate who’s similarly obsessed!
Ha! Love it Joe, thanks. And so nice to hear your map has expanded in the same way!
When I found black jeans about 10-15 years ago it unlocked a lot of new options for me. I could finally start to wear mid blue denim jackets, which for ages I’d avoid because I was terrified of clashing with jeans (and didn’t like the chino look). That look with a plaid shirt was my uniform of the 2010s. Only issue with black jeans is shoe/trainer choice is narrowed compared to navy trousers I find.
Yes that’s true. I often find I wear more smart options there, so brown leathers in boots, loafers, boat shoes for example. Not very smart, as the leather could be a waxed one, a rough-out suede, or something very unstructured and soft in a boat shoe, but a little smarter than trainers.
Actually, I think that’s one extra plus for some people who like more classic style and don’t want to wear trainers so much – black jeans fit with all these leather options, in black and brown.
My eyes have been opened to the merits of black denim over the last ~6-12 months via PS and I’ve been contemplating which might be a best 1st pair for me. As noted a few times over, fade will be key for me. Curious for additional insights as to which options might produce the best fade to dark grey over time. My personal preference, and as I’ve maintained with blue denim, is to fade myself over time through wear and washing. 2 on my radar, due to personal experience and fit preferences, are Orslow’s 105 in “One Wash” and the Fullcount 1101 though the white weft seems to come through more prominently in the 1101s when new giving me some pause. I’ve added Bryceland’s to the list per this post. Thanks in advance for any additional perspective.
When I first read you didn’t like true black jeans because of their starkness I didn’t understand why until I started trying to build outfits around them.
Now that they’ve faded over the years I find they are easy to pair with so much and I wear them a lot more than my dark wash indigo denim.
I recently bought a raw pair I’ve been wearing quietly until they break in and fade enough to have their first public appearance.
Playing Zelda – obviously a man of great taste in games, too!
I’m curious about the belt in the pic, halfway down, which looks like it has an F and G engraved on the front? I’m forever on the hunt for a good belt which can be adjusted more finely than notches allow, but that is smarter than my braided leather ones – hard to tell but it looks like it might fit the bill…
Hey Alex,
Yes that’s a slide engine-turned buckle, with a belt from Ludens in Japan. You can see it covered here.
Hi Simon. Have you had any issue with slide buckles slipping ? I have one and I need to retighten it constantly, but persevere because I really like it ! Also wondering if anyone knows anywhere that does good 1 inch belt straps for slide buckles ? Struggling to find anything. Thanks !
I haven’t, but I’ve found that the buckle can be quite specific to the strap. The one I bought from Ludens works well, but since then I’ve tried to find my own buckles (for some variation) and most aren’t quite the same proportions. It does need to be fairly exact.
Hi simon, dp you wear blsck jeans more than ecru ones?
Yes, definitely. I love ecru jeans but they feel best when it’s not cold and/or raining, and they are a little more showy or less subtle than black like this.
For both those reasons I wear them less, but the first is dependent on location obviously and the second on personal style
As someone who lives in place where it’s normal to have -20 degree Celsius in the winter, I find ecru jeans are fine even in the cold if it’s sunny. In my opinion they actually look good when it’s snow outside and the sun is shining. But then again it’s quite common to see white jeans here so the associations might be different to London/England.
No I agree Andy, I love them in cold, sunny weather
It is ultimately the lighting conditions which are decisive for what colours feel right. It often corresponds to seasons, but a sunny winter’s day lends itself more to bright colours than a cloudy summer’s day. And all black/dark works better at night than during the day.
A rare occurrence in London this winter…honestly I’ve been wanting to wear something different from my standard blue and olive jeans on the weekdend and this article has inspired me to give black a try. I own almost nothing black other than a dinner suit so this will definitely be charting new territory on the map
How do you feel about the Rubato jeans in black? I would almost expect you to own them.
They’re great, but I generally find the Bryceland’s jeans a slightly better fit on me. There’s more on that in this piece on my favourite jeans in general
Did you purchase Bryceland’s raw or washed denim? If you purchased washed, do they stretch like raw denim does after being washed?
Washed, and yes they stretch a little bit, but not as much as raw denim
the Brycelands jeans – would the 32” waist be a 32” length? Doesn’t seem to say on the website. I am 6”3 so that might come up a tad short on me
thank you!
Jay
It’s in the size chart Jay – 39 raw, 36.8 washed
Hi Simon. Noticed that a most of the photos feature the Levis over the Brycelands.
Do you feel that since Brycelands has a black warp and weft, it is unable to become as grey/charcoal as a regular black jean with a black warp and white weft?
Also curious if you have tried Rubato’s black denim and your impressions.
Yes, I find the Levi’s a little easier to wear with tailoring because the fade is more uniform to a dark grey, whereas the Bryceland’s fade less generally but to a high white in areas. Still love them, but a little harder with tailoring as described here.
The Rubato ones are great too but I find Bryceland’s a slightly better fit. I haven’t seen how they fade
That shot on the beach: very film noir cool!
Hi Simon, out of curiosity, what’s the jacket in the second pic from the top (the DB herringbone)? Asking for selfish reasons, as grey is an area of my wardrobe I’m currently thinking about how to flesh out.
It’s my first from Assisi, covered here
That’s interesting. I wear my black RMC jeans often, but I’ve never combined them with a tailored jacket. I will definitely try that now.
By the way: I love my ecru-coloured jeans, but I find it difficult to keep them clean in the weather they are suited to, which is often wet. In summer, when this would be less of a problem, I find them too warm, even though they only weigh 13-14 ounces.
On the RMC jeans, I think as mentioned a fair amount will depend how much they’ve faded Markus.
On ecru, try not to get worried about them getting a little dirty. I wouldn’t necessarily wear them in the train, but they often look better with some scuff marks and a little dirt. Brush off whatever’s there but don’t worry about keeping them too clean.
Also, with my ecru jeans I wash them at 60 if they get dirty. I haven’t experienced any shrinkage and washing them warm like that gets the stains out. I think Simon’s advice not to worry too much about a little dirt is good. They are jeans after all and look better a bit beaten up, or at least worn in.
I really like the jeans look with the blue DB jacket.
Anyway, which Zelda game are you playing?
Thanks.
Currently, Tears of the Kingdom, with my 15-year-old daughter. Breath of the Wild before that
Oh, and my latest uncovered part of the style map is definitely outdoor fleece sweaters with a quarter zip (not sure if that’s what they’re called in English, but I hope you know what I mean).
So impractical. So cool.
Absolutely, that’s just a fleece really but a pop-over rather than zip-through. Great in unusual colours
I’m a big black jeans wearer and a fan of my Iron Heart 888s. However, usually just with knitwear rather than tailoring. One reason for this is that the jeans seem to be fading very slowly, so they don’t quite look right whenever I try this. I’m a big fan of them with the chambray shirt in your pics.
Nice Tim. If you do want more of a fade and a more even one, worth looking at the cheaper Levi’s etc, particularly vintage ones but even new
Hi! I bought a pair of Levi’s 505 orange tab a few years ago. I wear them a lot and find, just like you, that they go with so many different tops.
However there’s no fade on my jeans. In a way I guess it’s impressive that they’re 25 years old, I’ve worn them for three years I believe and they still look almost new, but I would really love to see some patina and fade.
I wear mine mostly with loafers.
How many times have you washed them Daniel?
Unsure actually but I wear them regularly and also when playing with my four year old, so I guess 4-8 times? It must be more than once a year, probably 2-3.
OK, a fair bit then. I would have expected a little more fading then
Daniel,
That’s interesting. I have three pairs of orange tabs (two blue, one black). One of the blue pairs has an extreme fade on it (accompanied by some ripped knees), and the black is pretty uniformly faded to grey by now. I’ll share some pictures later.
I would not describe my dad as particularly fashion forward but he liked black jeans – I have his now yet barely wear them myself.
I’m not as much into tonal dressing but I like the look of them with a tan belt and tan boots, unfortunately I lack either – they’re low on my priority list.
They’re also a wardrobe staple of mine. And I agree with Simon, a colour fade is key. I can’t imagine a deep saturated black would work as well.
A combo I like are the jeans, navy jacket (chore or similar), *dark* brown shoes/boots (with enough heft, not dressy), plus an ecru tee (Sunspel) as a foil for the otherwise dark palette.
You write that you certainly wear black jeans more than white these days, why is that?
Hey Jonas – there’s a question above from Shem above that. Check out the answer there
Since fading seems to be key, would you think black jeans with white weft a good choice or would it fade quickly to a lighter shade of grey with higher contrast that would not be as versatile?
I think that would work better for the colour of my Levi’s or lighter, yes
I’ve arrived at a similar place from the opposite direction. I work in a university, which these days is a rather casual working environment and there’s a danger of being ‘too smart’. I like wearing tweed jackets though, and find that pairing them with black jeans sit nicely in the middle of the continuum from indigo jeans – black jeans – grey flannel trousers. (My black jean of choice is the Blackhorse Lane NW8, which for me is neither too slim nor too baggy around the legs).
Nice piece, thanks Simon. Iron Heart have their double black jeans which are almost fade resistant, and then their fade-to-grey jeans (I presume they wouldn’t be “actually” grey). One alternative I’ve tried is IH’s double indigo in the 634 straight cut fit (14 oz – substantial but not as crippling as their 25 oz!). The warp and weft are both indigo. It’s a striking look, as the selvedge in the turn up, for example, is indigo also, but it’s not so striking that you get comments.
There’s a certain amount of “crocking” / indigo transference. A pair of suede wallabies (beige) and my beige home birkenstock suede “clogs” have the battle scars to prove that. Anyway, they’re a nice alternative, obviously not black, but very deep indigo. In the future I will invest in a good pair of selvedge black jeans, but for now will probably investigate the Dutch brand Benzak Denim Developers.
Thanks David, all very useful. Personally I don’t like those deeper, double indigos as I find they don’t compliment other clothes are much, but that obviously depends a lot on what different people wear
Hi Simon,
Do you find that when it comes to vintage Levi’s, you stick to the 501s? Do you ever get them altered after the fact?
Thank you!
Bear in mind that this will be dependent on body type as well as the style you want, but yes I generally stick to 501s as they work for me on both those points. The only thing I sometimes do is take the waist in, but not always (it depends on the era of the jeans, even 501s vary a little in things like the rise unfortunately)
Oh OK. Yes I have really only been able to find ones from 1999 or 2000.
I always wonder if they could stand to be narrowed a bit from the k ee down. But I guess the straight leg drapes best. Had you ever found a need for that?
Do you find the Rubato or Brycelands 933 cut to be superior to vintage Levi’s 501s for you, personally?
Yes, both of them are generally a better cut for me personally, because they come in more at the waist and are a little more generous through the thighs.
No, I’ve never felt the need to taper any of them
Thank you, as always!
Great article and I heartily agree that black can complement tailoring well. That said, the wash and the way they fade is key. Personally I love Anglo-Italian’s offering. They have a great cut and superb wash – they are virtually charcoal grey.
I also welcome the renewed attention towards belts. I never bought the wholesale flight towards side fasteners, particularly with casual strides. Over the years I’ve accumulated a small collection which I cherish. For most Flaneurs they are the male jewellery.
Thanks David. The Anglo ones are more of an Italian wash which isn’t quite my style, I also find them a little too tapered. But obviously both dependent on personal style and on body shape
Anglo has completely changed the cut on their denim this season, calling it Mk II. Much higher rise, which I’m not sure I prefer (judging solely by the photos) but possibly better in person. And sadly they no longer appear to have that charcoal grey, which I agree was the perfect shade. They were my most worn jeans for a couple of years until growing legs from gym work forced a move to something with a less aggressive taper and a more structured fabric.
Paul,I concur about Mk II – they look a little bizarre in the photo but I want to try them because their Mk 1 have been so good. Maybe they’ll restock the black and ecru?
First of all, I’m very happy to know you can also appreciate a great Zelda game. But I digress.
I’ve found black jeans to also be a great way to experiment with different fits of jeans. I have a pair of super faded 90’s 501s that are just the great standard jean. The fit is, for lack of a better term, “unremarkable” but that’s what I love about them. I wear them often with loafers, chukka boots, or slim trainers.
I also have a pair of Angel Ramos jeans, that he borderline chucked at me because of how perfect the fit was haha. It’s a very different silhouette, being higher rise, tight in the top block, with a slight flare at the hem. This is exclusively for the louder, more rockstar looks. Usually I pair them with some black cowboy boots ands a band tee, a la Ethan Newton.
An interesting alternative I’ve found, have been a pair of black Carhartt double knee pants. The fit is quite wide and straight, but at no point baggy. This is a go to for pretty much any casual to edgy look, from Timberlands in the snow, to the aforementioned cowboy boots. If I really wanted a strong juxtaposition I’ll pair them with my Alden black cordovan full strap loafers in lieu of the cowboy boots.
Lots of rambling, but clearly I love my black jeans. Cheers, Simon.
Not at all Zawaad, nice call on the double knees. I always wish they had those without the hammer loops etc – one or two two details like that make them too much for me personally, but I love the canvas and quite like the double knee itself
I totally get what you mean, but if I may offer two options:
I also have a pair of incredibly faded near-grey 90’s 501 and agree its probably the most versatile black jeans there is. It works great with leather jackets of course but it’s just as good with grey tweeds IMO. Kind of unusual, but I also really like them with black suede chukkas for dressier mostly monochromatic outfits. Good way to still wear tailoring in a city like Chicago where constant snow and ice make proper dress shoes a bit of a risk.
In the right shade I think black jeans arguably straddle the line between casual and dressy better than blue jeans (which are often very casual) or white jeans (which are almost always a little dress-y or at the very least prep-y). Easily my most worn pair of pants as a former punk. If anyone is reading this article and wants to try the style I’d reccomend starting there. I got my pair on ebay for around $30 so it’s a pretty cheap experiment!
I got my 90’s black 501s for $24 with shipping on eBay, so I’m with you! And I totally feel you on black jeans being a more versatile middle ground between smart and casual. Simon’s mentioned it here and before, but the way that a faded pair of black jeans can fit into a similar slot as grey flannels does a lot to bolster that versatility. In a smart context I wear mine often with brown suede or black leather/cordovan, with whatever on top and it just works. I’ll keep it casual and wear some of the vintage style MiUSA New Balance sneakers and that’s a great comfortable look as well.
I also pair mine with black new balances (well, technically they’re ASICS but they were clearly apeing the New Balance sillouhette with that model)! Sounds like theres a lot of overlap in our wardrobes!
On a semi-related note I also find black cords surprisingly useful if you’re the type to wear a lot of black jeans. They’re a little dresser and you don’t get the greyish fading but the texture keeps them from looking too stark. It’s usually what I wear if I feel like wearing a tie with separates.
Black may seem like a weird color for corduroy on paper but I think it’s a good option for people who enjoy the versatillity of corduroy (hard-wewring, often machine-washable) but worry about some of it’s old-fashioned country connotations. I still look a little like a college professor in them but at least a cool young one (I’d like to think).
Nice, Z. FYI, black cords used in tailoring here
Recent convert here as well. Wearing mine today with C&J loafers, white shirt and navy jacket. Definitely works for me
Back in the late aughts and the years that followed, I used to delight in the irreverence of mixing black jeans with navy (back then my black denim was from Acne and Dior) — it looked great, and it was fun to flaunt one of menswear’s most hollowed conventions. The combination also seemed to suit the slightly gothier vibe of the time. Gradually I drifted away from black denim, but have recently begun incorporating it again. For the way I dress today, the perfect black jeans come from Anglo-Italian (they seem not to be on offer at the moment, but hopefully they’ll return). They are pre-faded to a perfect charcoal, which is no surprise given the brand’s tailoring-first ethos, and slot in perfectly as a substitute for grey flannel or worsteds. Crucially, they still read as “black,” despite their actual, empirical shade. I think their even fading is much more versatile than irregularly fading to white. Normally I avoid pre-faded denim and still delight in breaking in indigo jeans from raw, but I think an even wash to dark grey is very useful when using black jeans with tailoring, since it remains smarter.
I have thought about adding a pair of true black RRLs to my denim rotation, but I have enough jeans to break in at the moment!
Newly explored coordinates on my own style map: western accessories, including turquoise belts and a ring I could have never conceived of wearing even three years ago; bandanas; gold watches. Maybe soon enough these newly unearthed patches will become deserted and overgrown once more, but at the moment it’s fun tromping through them.
Lovely imagery K
I always find myself reaching for black jeans over most other shades (though ecru is growing on me for its versatility). As you say Simon, I prefer it as a “colder” shade instead of the warmer blue of a true blue jean. Works better with deep black, any shade of brown, white, green, and in my opinion, even more saturated/warmer colors like burgundy. Personal favorite brand is Freenote Cloth.
For me it was white jeans. I grew up around a lot of skateboard and motorcycle culture, so black jeans always seemed present. Never considered white jeans, and now I wear them all the time. I think they are a little less on trend now than they were a couple years ago, but I still find them to work really well. They make something I usually wear feel new and different, but still in a realm that I am comfortable in.
I think that’s the perfect situation – something that used to be popular, but now they’re part of you so you carry on wearing them even though they’re not so much anymore
Wonderful article Simon! I love how you acknowledge your changing tastes through the years as this is one of the beauties of life. Perhaps one way to look at clothing is as a microcosm of one’s influences and dreams. I am young but have been a PS reader for a few years now, and would like to let you know you personally have changed my opinion on black jeans! I work in film/advertising so I mostly associated them with the punk/grunge look and only after seeing your outfits have I learned that they can be a part of a more considered wardrobe as well. Without your influence I don’t think I would have picked up my first pair!
Lovely to hear Ray
Do you ever find yourself wearing a tie with jeans Simon? It’s something I see more Ivy minded people do but can’t often find the bravery to do myself even as someone who insists on wearing a tie as often as I reasonably can. It just feels like a crazy amount of contrast.
Ha! Yeah I know what you mean. I have tried it now and again, and I think it can look kind of cool. But I usually conclude it is a touch too showy for me.
It is one I keep coming back to though, for the same reasons as you really – love to wear a tie more often
Good post, Carrot, and good response, Simon. Interesting comment about ‘finding the bravery to do something yourself.’ I think many of us are in the same boat, and I find it rather fascinating. I’ve had many instances of people finding something that I do very stylish, but saying they couldn’t do it themselves. I generally tell them to try it, and hopefully compliments will boost their confidence. But there are things I can’t do, like tucking a sweater in to show a belt buckle. I find it difficult to take my own advice!
Ties with jeans. I love wearing ties with jeans. I think more than any other look, there are far more variables you can play with…from dress shoes to trainers, new jeans to faded, a blazer (particularly navy) to a vintage jean jacket. I also think that, in all cases, the shirt should be more on the casual side (PS oxford, for example). Ditto the tie. Likely not many of your readers own something like a Liberty cotton floral tie, but it’s a great summertime look with jeans. Turnbull & Asser used to do some beautiful jacquards and whimsical prints. I think it’s fun to find something that works. It’s finding a nice combination of hi and lo, while keeping the shirt and tie on the lo side, imho.
I also find self-imposed style boundaries pretty interesting Kim! I wear jeans and trousers with such wide hems that it might shock some other PS readers, but I’m somehow too scared to wear a tie with those jeans! Even though arguably the wide pants could be considered more “out there” by some.
Really just reinforcing my desire to get some jacquard ties. Madder ties even. Because that definitely is a look I’d love to pull off!
I’d add just a quick comment. I was talking blue jeans, not black. Simon’s post addressed my personal situation. I rarely wear black jeans.
Had to laugh. I’m wearing black jeans with a tweed jacket right now. I find them very versatile and can resemble black trousers or corduroys in a casual setting. I prefer them to regular colored denim.
When I was a kid in the ’90s in New York, black jeans were what some parents let their kids wear for dressing up, as a dressier alternative to blue jeans. My parents taught me better. I mostly see them today worn by wait staff. But like anything, there’s a time and place for them, and you wear them well.
Thanks for this piece Simon. I’m perhaps unusual as I’ve been wearing black jeans since I was twelve or thirteen. I wore them before I ever wore blue. Blame it on emulating older brothers with Cure records – I often used to wear them with black suede shoes, less so today, but it’s a look I still feel instinctively drawn to even if the light-sucking effect can be a bit much sometimes. To this day (I’m now late 40s), a black jean feels like a comfortable everyday go-to for me, while other styles/forms of dress have over the years been much more of a journey, as you would put it. It’s like the inverse of your narrative here: for me the black denim has been constant but other things have changed around it.
I’ve enjoyed seeing you wear black denim in various combinations in your walkie talkie videos. This might sound a bit odd to say but I’ve noticed there’s often a nice sense of movement and “flap” in the lower legs of the jeans you wear, suggesting a washed-in softness that looks really good (would that be right?)
Thanks Dan, interesting to hear that reverse journey.
My guess would be that ‘flap’ movement is either due to fairly straight leg shapes rather than slim or tapered, or to the fact that the ones I wear most often are the vintage Levi’s, and they are a softer denim. Let me know if there are any specific videos you think of
Didn’t know you were a gamer – which Zelda?
See comments above Matty, Tears of the Kingdom – it’s only occasional though, mostly around what my 15yo is playing
Very thoughtful article, short and succinct. Couldn’t agree more. I think black jeans with some fades are highly underrated and to your point less Trad and slightly cooler.
Also the map metaphor was great.
Simon could you do a reflection piece on how your menswear semiotic map has opened up over the years. Maybe including some of the pitfalls you experienced in hindsight, like getting stuck on certain details that you might now view as a hindrance?
Thanks.
Interesting, yes I can see that would be good. So you mean other things I’ve taken on board, and the things that hung me up on them for a while?
Plus ones that I tried to adopt but failed?
Exactly, anything you deem worthy of a mention would be greatly appreciated
Is there a one size fits all approach? I’m beginning to realise that slim (definately skinny) fits do not flatter or look good on most men I see. Heart breaking when I count the number of Japanese selvedge slim fits I have! My Hiuts sit too low on the waist and have a 7inch hem which I now consider too narrow. Is it possible that, say, an 8inch hem works best for everyone? I’m keen to get a new pair of (black – thank you!) jeans and keen to avoid my earlier fits/mistakes. There’s also range of styles: slim/slim tapered/ regular/ straight/ straight tapered/loose and so it goes on. Or, is it a case of try on as many pairs as you need before you find “the one”?
So, I think this is mostly a question of trying to stay within fashions, Rich. There’s no absolute right or wrong, it’s more about slow changes in fashion and not adopting them too strongly or extremely.
So seven inches and a low rise is less moderate, but now you don’t like that look any more, go for 8 inches rather than 9 or 10 perhaps, and a higher rise but not super high.
And do buy hugely into anything thinking it will be your style forever, go gradually
Thanks for the considered reply Simon. Is there a classic standard of hem width for jeans would you say? One which will *always* stand the test of time? I guess I’m asking what hem do yours have?!
Not really Rich, but these things do take 15-20 years before they really change completely, so it’s a long time.
Most of mine are around 8cm, and that feels pretty classic. Of course, body proportions, height etc, make a small difference as well
Hi Simon, I really like the look in picture 3. I’m a great fan of a chambray shirt but a lot of the nice ones don’t have collars that work with a jacket. Can you tell me what shirt you are wearing here?
I presume you mean the third one of the bottom set Rob? That’s a vintage one, and I’m with you, I haven’t found a light one that really hits the mark on the collar etc. We are working on one though!
Oh, do you play Zelda with your daughters?
With one of them, yes. It’s a bit of a post-dinner ritual
Ah, me too! We’ve been playing solidly since my youngest was 5, she’s nearly 9 now, and we’ve gone through BotW, ToTk, EoW and currently very close to the end of Skyward Sword. It’s such a lovely world for a father and daughter to share! Really pleased to hear about other dads having the same experience.
Lovely to hear Rowan!
Was that black and brown houndstooth sport coat fabric a PS exclusive?
It was a collaboration with Fox Brothers, and they still set it – there’s a dedicated page of my collaborations with them here.
Hi Simon,
Is there a specific periode of vintage 501’s which you prefer the fit of?
Cheers in advance!
I’m afraid that’s a little beyond my level of expertise. In general I’d try to get made in USA or Mexico, and accept there will be a bit of looking at measurements and trying and returning things through eBay, but it’s hard to get to the level of narrowing down shapes over the decades and then codes for which pair each one is etc
I see haha, i was going on a trip down a rabbit hole on 501’s through the years and it seems there is a lot of differences between the years (also looking at the current lvc line up). I know my body has similar proportions to you so I figured you might have some idea of years that are a better fit for you then others.
Thanks anyway Simon!
I hate to be seen as a willful contrarian, but ever since reaching mid-adulthood I cannot countenance denim jeans for much other than a weekend DIY project.
I am slim and can easily wear jeans but struggle to bring myself to do so.
Other cloths always seem to offer a superior resolution to the weather conditions and social context (unless it’s work wear that is literally called for), and jeans — no matter how broken in and one’s own — will never seem to be quite as sensible as flannel in winter and linen in summer.
The thought of flying or driving in denim gives me great pause, and even the best fit and finished jeans of the right color and tone are, I suggest, simply too narrowly separated from a certain American everyman you might find at a Tractor Supply shop. (My non-American counterparts may not suffer the same associations.)
Perhaps it is the democratic connotations of jeans that seem (not coincidentally) to be called into question. Although, judging by the comments, I seem to be of the minority opinion.
I am from the US and not sure what you mean by “a certain American everyman”. That comes across as quite classist (which is very un-American, I’ll add)
Perhaps it’s a foreign thing James, but there’s very much an ideal of the everyday American workingman. Probably something that started in the 50s and has been perpetuated by advertising ever since
I did not mean to suggest that one should separate themselves from the everyman as a sort of classist impulse. Rather, I was trying to suggest that jeans seem to have have become the “uniform” of everyday American men. As a de facto uniform for so many, there can be a sense of ubiquity and homogeneity that comes with that, which necessarily carries with it connotations of everyman-ness.
How one chooses to interpret those connotations is up to them. I am not suggesting it is necessarily good or bad (although if your intention is to develop an individual personal style, jeans may not be as individual as a less ubiquitous choice).
Relatedly, I believe jeans were developed as tough workwear for laborers such as miners and railroad workers. There’s a clear material logic to this, and that spirit of honest working men, unpretentious, has been attached to jeans (including through advertising, as Simon points out) hence the subject of this article, which is, in part, an inquiry into using the iconic unpretentiousness of jeans to make tailoring more casual and, to your point, arguably less classist.
Rejecting jeans is not necessarily an endorsement of classism any more than wearing them it is a celebration of miners and railroad workers — who are probably not following PS. An alternative critical reading (one that I personally find to be a bad oversimplification) is that it is deeply problematic that a bunch of relatively well-off folks figuring out how to make their fine tailoring (typically associated with the upper classes) more casual by appropriating the trousers of men who actually labor physically. I don’t particularly agree with this, but it goes to show that there isn’t a great way out of this “predicament” after one begins to assign notions of class ethics to the logic of fashion.
Great article, thanks, Simon! What do you think of black jeans with a dark brown corduroy blazer, like a Drake’s Game Blazer?
That could be very nice. The darker the jean the darker I’d want the jacket, but otherwise great
Waiting for the “Menswear Journey” RPG…
Now I’m left to wonder where on the “women”–”fashion forward guys” spectrum of black jeans wearers the punks, goths, and emos fall? Or, alternatively, how you made it through the 2000s without seeing any of those? xD
Enlightening article as always. I feel like I’m circling back to my beginnings and returning more informed all the same; the first time I wore anything tailored was when, in complete ignorance of what goes with what, I wore my grandfather’s charcoal suit jacket over gray jeans (that had, after years of wear, ripped entirely naturally). I was convinced it worked, everyone else was not; now years later here I am reading about how to make it work!
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had dinner at a very upscale restaurant wearing black jeans. Same place has a no blue jeans rule. Beating the system…!!!
Great piece Simon – thank you (again!).
The great thing about black jeans is that they avoid the ‘Clarkson effect’. I once saw the Topgear supremo wear a honey cord or moleskin jacket and some quite mis-shapen blue jeans and thought to myself “there must be a better way to do that”.
Black jeans draw attention away from themselves and set off any cord jacket beautifully. I also have a lovely Kent and Curwen green blazer that black jeans complement equally well. My preferred workwear for some years has been relatively new, unworn black jeans, shirt and blazer or cord jacket.
Mr. Clarkson is many things to many people, but I contend that a fashion icon he is not :).
Thanks for the article, Simon.
I have pondered adding black jeans to my wardrobe for a few years now. The problem is getting my hands on a pair that fit well enough that they don’t break up the line of my tailored jackets. Alas, wearing Levi’s hasn’t worked for me since high school, as I happen to be a guy who finds that the Levi’s that fit in the seat leave too much of a gap at the waist.
I should add that I’m age 70 and would wear jeans in the 40-42″ range.
These facts prompt two questions. First, at my age am I out of my mind to think of wearing jeans for anything other than yard work? Second, do you know of any quality jeans makers who produce my sizes? Honestly, the largest sizes available from most of the British, Japanese, and European makers is the equivalent of a 38″ waist — not accounting for a cut that may not work for a chunky guy like me.
Thanks.
I don’t think you are John, no.
I’m not great on the bigger sizes side, but a maker like Blackhorse Lane might be good, especially with made to measure. It’s often easier for makers like that than with brands
Iron Heart all the way as they have a superb range of black denim in various cuts and weights. I love the 21oz thick ones and have them in 777 (very low rise) and 555 (more classic but tapered cut). Also prefer their Super Black range that doesn’t fade over the Super Fades range. Would never been seen dead in Levis abit more…be a bit more discerning! With just a polo or t-shirt is all you need…
Simon, on the theme of dark trousers do you know of any fabrics similar to flannel in appearance but have the weight and rigidty like a heavy cotton used for a chino, like Rubato’s?
Essentially I am after a pair of chinos in a fabric that resembles a charcoal flannel but has more in common structurally with the tough cottons traditionally used for chinos. Whilst I like the flannel in a more formal setting, it feels a bit too delicate to wear them more casually.
Maybe something like Bryceland’s salt and pepper?
Yes very similar, sadly the cut isn’t for me but I think the salt and pepper is the right direction. It will nicely season my outfit.
I look forward to an article on how to incoporate style cues from Hyrulian heros and the workwear of Italian plumbers.
hi Simon
On the topic of black trousers, have you every tried wearing the trousers of your black corduroy suit separately? I think black cord is pretty cool but I wouldn’t necessarily wear a full suit very often. I have been contemplating getting some trousers.
I also wanted to pick up on a comment that Manish made about preferring trousers to jeans in the article on packing for his trip to NY. I find that I am increasingly falling in the same camp: on the weekend I prefer wearing cords or tailored cotton trousers to jeans on almost any occasion that doesn’t involve getting dirty (doing house work, playing with my kids outside in the park). I am not yet really sure why this is.
I haven’t tried black jeans yet and I am inclined to think that I wouldn’t wear them very much for the reason above. If anything, I think I would wear black cords in colder months and black linen in warmer months more.
Best, Andrew
I have Andrew, yes, see this outfit for my black cords for example.
The point about jeans is an interesting one and perhaps deserves its own article some time. I do completely see the disadvantages of them and why men (often as they get older) don’t wear them. I think there are two parts to it – one about types of comfort, and the other about style. The style one is about the universality, ease and to an extent youth of what jeans put across I think
I think the question of age definitely has something to do with it. I am 44 and starting to wonder if there is an age limit for wearing jeans. I of course have seen the photos of Agnelli and Ralph Lauren wearing jeans well past that age, but I hesitate to compare myself to them because I think a part of what makes those looks work is the aura that those men give off. I don’t think most middle aged men, myself included, give off the same aura as Agnelli or Ralph.
I would be interested in an article on this, and also it would be interesting to hear Manish elaborate his thoughts on why he prefers trousers to jeans. He only mentioned it in passing in the article.
Thanks for the link, I will have a look.
I am 50, and I wear, almost every day:
Black APC jeans (I have five pair in the same style and size); Grey T Shirts; jackets from Gieves, Sexton, Paul Stuart, or Freeman’s Sporting Club. I have accepted that my style has narrowed to this vaguely goofy caricature of my profession (advertising).
I’m in the same camp Simon. I always saw black jeans as a little too fashion forward for me. But seeing your style incorporate more blacks, I decided to give them a try. Specifically, I tried the Belford cut by Freenote cloth. Love them. Also, I have seen black jeans be re-dyed with great success if they get too grey or have weird fades. Personally, I find they go with a wide range of shoe colors (black of course is the staple) and also offer a landing spot for jackets that may be a bit formal in cut or color for regular blue jeans.
Have a pair of trousers in black moleskin fabric cut same as 501’s with the same pockets made bespoke. They work great.
Of course you do – nice Guy, they sound great
Hey simon i recently went to my local levis store and i tried on a very washed pair of black denim almost verging on grey. I was undecided and put it back. Can i say though when it comes to black jeans that the more faded the better?
No, I wouldn’t necessarily say so, Shem. Very faded black jeans are a nice look, but I personally prefer more the kind of fade shown here
I love black jeans and it has been my staple for 10+ years. But I still have difficulty with shoes. How do you think about color of shoes with black black jeans? Black naturally but what about brown, which shades and materials of brown? Other good colors?
If they’re black black, I wouldn’t really wear brown unless it was very, very dark. I’d wear mostly black, maybe Col.8 cordovan, and trainers that could then contrast for being more casual
And hence, once you get fade into jeans, it becomes more versatile? Think dark brown shoes looked great in the pictures. Brown suede easier than leather?
Yes exactly – it’s something I covered in the piece Henri, that fade makes it easier. And yes, suede easier than leather
Nice article Simon. Interestingly, when I look back on my sartorial journey, I’ve been wearing a black pair of jeans for a very long time, some 25 years at least. That black pair was from Stone Island, back in the day when wearing a “Stoney” was quite a big thing in London, and when I probably didn’t know the associations that you covered in your recent article about Stone Island. The associations aside, that black pair of jeans were great quality, faded beautifully and had a relatively speaking generous straight cut. I’m no cloth expert but I think they had a white weft. I was always fond of these jeans but not so much the conspicuous logo on the back pocket. After many years of wear (I still retain these jeans), they have now been consigned to DIY and home decorating.
After a a fair bit of deliberation, I started to look for another black repair that could replace those Stone Island, more specifically the denim rather than the cut. After, two indigo commissions at Levis Lot 1, I requested fabric samples from Lot 1 and was sent several. There was one clear winner, the W966 in 13.5oz fabric. This is a fairly lightweight denim and if it was available, I would have liked something a touch heavier, say 16oz. However, my third commission in the W966 has been absolutely fantastic and couldn’t have been more successful both in terms of fit and the way the fabric has aged.
In the image attached, the W966 is on the right-hand side and is about 4 years old.
Lovely to hear JSB – no image attached though I don’t think?
Oh. I’m not sure why the photo has not uploaded. I’m trying again. This was my first ever attempt at uploading a photo to your website. The photo was an iPhone file format (.heic). Maybe that was the reason? I’ve now converted it to jpeg. Hopefully, it will work.
Thanks JSB, yes got that. Yes HEIC files are a pain generally. Looks like a nice range
I like wearing black or white jeans because they make it easy to put together casual, interesting monochrome outfits. I just add a sweater in any color, a white Oxford shirt, and the jeans, and you’re done.
I think the black jeans look great with all your looks!
Something I’ve been wondering a lot about recently , is when you get a larger wardrobe how do you force yourself to not just wear the same 1-3 outfits that are your current favourites?
I find that a new suit or new jeans for example mentally makes everything else I own less exciting ,duller even. And rather than have a choice of multiple suits and jeans, I then just have a favourite and everything else. Does that ring true in any level and is it something you ever consider?
Yes, I certainly know what you mean – I think the key is not to consume too fast, so after 2-3 weeks or just wearing the new exciting thing in every way you like, you then start to wear other things in the wardrobe and mix together more.
Hey Simon,
first time commenting under a post. I lovee your way to show and tell about style. Would you tell me where the brown collared knit is from? Looks really nice in combination with the black denim and colour 8 loafers.
Greetings from Germany
Thanks Fabian. It’s from Rubato
My aunt picked up a pair of black jeans for my uncle after seeing me wear a fresh pair in the evenings around the island a few summers ago.
As lifelong preppies, they hadn’t really taken to black jeans yet.
I overheard her telling another woman that she got them for an upcoming cruise because they looked dressier and more formal in the evenings
I’m delighted to have seen this topic covered. I am 65 and have decided that blue jeans are just wrong for someone my age. So other than when I’m working in the garden or in the garage I never wear them. And with very few exceptions, they are wrong for most others my age too, in my (probably narrow) view. Anyway, the answer is black or grey denim (as well as écru). Problem solved, they are still practical and, like you say, they go with many ensembles. And the simple change of colour swerves away from looking lazy and/or looking like you’re trying too hard to be someone you aren’t.
Good article, and I think I agree with everything in it. I think it draws together a number of themes in recent years across your articles:
-desaturated colours are best for odd trousers (cf-why navy odd trousers are tricky);
-dark, low contrast overall look can seem very well thought-out;
-grey and navy is no longer the uniform
-but black and navy is now a thing if you are careful;
-so is black and brown.
Hi Simon,
In that photo where you’re sitting at the cafe, may I ask what that collared brown knit is that you’re wearing?
Also, are those full strap color 8 Alden loafers?
Thank you!
Hey Mike – that’s our Cashmere Rugby sweater, a real favourite. Yes they’re Alden full straps.
That brown was available as part of our seasonal pre-order, which will happen again in March
Thank you!
Hi Simon,
What do you think of these more unusual black jeans and how they may fit with tailoring, knitwear, etc?
Stevenson with a more standard black/black fabric but unusual details:
https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3437
Fullcount with typical details but a more unusual fabric:
https://fullcount.co/products/0105bk
I wouldn’t focus on the details at all, more the colour of the denim and the cut. The wider cut might be harder with tailoring, but it depends how you have your jackets fitted as well.
In terms of this article overall, it would be good to have an idea of how they fade
Good to know, thank you
To clarify, how do you feel about this particular FullCount black denim fabric? It’s unusual. Some days I find myself digging it. Others, a bit more wary.
I feel the same way about the Stevenson pockets and belt loops, but it sounds like you don’t feel those would be an issue!
No, I don’t.
On the fabric, I’d really like to see an old pair or at least get a read from the brand on how it fades, if i could
Appreciated
For the people who are looking for black jeans now to wear with tailoring that will fade nicely: I can highly recommend the Levi’s 568 in black for this (Jamie has also previously recommended them on this site). They have the big E and at least mine are very decent quality for the price (below 100 Euros). They are advertised as very “wide” skater jeans, but you can actually size them so that they sit near your waist and are not that wide at all all. For reference: I take a size 30 in the Bryceland’s 933 and a size 29 of the Levi’s 568 works very well for me with tweed jackets etc. But beware that the proportions might be quite different for bigger waist sizes.
I would like to ask what colour outerwear you usually wear over the dark brown knitted polo you’re wearing in one of the photos. I’ve been searching for something like that for a while, but not many brands seem to offer it. Is it because it isn’t very versatile?
Lots of colours work well – beige, black, a really dark navy, plus different greys.
I find it pretty versatile, not sure why others don’t offer it
My wife for quite a few years encouraged me try solid black and/or faded black jeans. I was perpetually locked into blue jeans as well as different shades of brown chinos, chords, etc. Purchasing black jeans was an eye opener as she taught me how to merge them into my wardrobe. I have since incorporated faded black (almost gray) as well. This addition broke me out of my go-to blue, which remains my favorite color by far. She now helps me combine black with certain brown or blue tones so that I don’t always default to some version of a black/gray monochrome look.
If I may ask what is your opinion on true black jeans which will have minimal to no fade, would that look nice?
Personally I don’t like them so much, mostly for the reasons mentioned here
Hello Simon, may i ask you a question regarding the extent of fading that will work best with tailoring? The Anthology made me a jacket in your Fox collaboration houndstooth, and i would wear EG Dovers in mink suede on the feet. Would the following jeans be too grey?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/198168194173?_skw=black+levi+501+36&itmmeta=01KMD9FM4GT1ZTV3Q22D8N6FMM&hash=item2e23beac7d:g:DxkAAeSwr-tprqVL
My suspicion is yes, but i’d apprecaite your thoughts.
Cheers,
John
I think they might be John, yes. If anything I’d err on the side of darker, as you’d get a little fading over time
Thanks Simon, much appreciated.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for the article and the whole concept. It is very inspiring. Now I also tends to wear dark colour trousers like black cotton chino, black jeans, dark grey wool trousers. However, its really hard for me to find a dark navy summer jacketing fabric that goes well with jeans. Do you have any great recommendation?
Best regards,
Jason
Yes that is hard, and especially to wear with black jeans. I’d suggest a mid-blue linen (as worn by Manish here, and Trunk have one at the moment) but that would be more with dark indigo or mid-blue jeans
I’ve become a black jeans convert, too (and especially love the Brycelands 933–thank you for the recommendation). Do you wear them in summer (assuming it wouldn’t be uncomfortably hot to do so)? Or do you avoid them because they don’t “feel summer-ey?” I sometimes struggle with this decision–cordovan shoes are another example. I love them but don’t wear them much in spring/summer even when it’d be comfortable enough to do so because they just feel like fall/winter shoes to me. It’s more a feeling (or, to use that horribly overused term, “vibe”) than anything else, but I’m wondering how much that should influence my choices. Thanks!
I usually only wear black jeans in the summer in the city, often overcast. Not particularly in a planned way, it’s just what feels right
I wouldn’t feel the same about cordovan though
Thanks! On cordovan, do you mean you agree with me that it doesn’t feel right in the summer? Or that you disagree with me and I should get over it?
I disagree
Hello Simon, for a black pair of jeans would you say that a black belt is best, not brown? I see you mention that a black belt helps to highlight the lighter colour/fading in the jeans, so I’m guessing that a black belt will be superior to dark brown?
Many thanks.
No, I’d pay more attention to what shows you’re wearing – if it was a brown shoe I’d wear a brown belt
Thanks Simon!
Hi Simon, I’ve got two pairs of Rubato Lot Nr.1 (indigo and ecru) and love them. I was thinking about adding a third pair in black and was wondering about the Lot Nr.2. I know you have tried one. Is it vastly different? I wouldn’t mind a little more width.
I’ve also tried the Bryceland’s 133, but these sit a bit weirdly on me.
I would say it is very different in the rise in particular Philipp, less so but still very noticeably in the width. I would imagine you’d probably want one or the other