[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at l.a.shirtmaker@gmail.com]

One of the nice things about having clothes made is the relationship with the maker that can form over the years. Neither Luca Avitabile (Satriano Cinque) nor I thought in such elevated terms in Naples yesterday, but it is something that comes upon reflection. And though Luca has only been making my shirts for a short time, when the maker is as affable as him, and our kids the same age, it is a definite pleasure.

Luca’s style is similar to most Neapolitan shirtmakers, and it is one I find I definitely prefer now to my old Turnbull & Assers – particularly the lovely curve of the collar when it sits inside a jacket, which comes from the collar’s very light interlining.
Neapolitan shirts tend to have a collarband that is much stiffer than the collar itself, which makes sense as it is the band that keeps the thing erect. English shirts have both in similar weights.
 
It takes a while with shirts to refine the collar shape you like. I now have it down to two – one spread to wear with a tie, and one button-down to wear without. Although both can function the other way around, they work best in those settings.
 
I’m particularly happy with the height and length of the button-down, which is the only collar I have ever found to work open-necked under an Anderson & Sheppard jacket. The A&S collar is so deep that most shirts collapse underneath it if not supported by a tie. More pictures of this effect at some point.
 
In the meantime, at top I’m wearing my Solito jacket and below an A&S jacket in W Bill linen. Gieves fresco trousers and Edward Green suede Oxfords. Satriano Cinque shirts throughout, including on Luca at top (a white jersey model that I also have). I’m afraid I don’t know what Cristiano (Luca’s son) is wearing.