A guide to gloves: Materials, colours, linings
A reader recently asked about advice on gloves - probably because it’s actually, finally cold enough in places like London to need them. Oddly, we haven’t really done an overview piece about gloves in the past either. As I started writi...
A guide to gloves: Materials, colours, linings
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I found them a little bulky and stiff when I tried them to be honest Roger. I prefer the regular McCoy's horsehide, or the Y2 deerskin...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdash...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
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Generally, yes...
A Guide to Shawl-Collar Cardigans
By Manish Puri. Unless you’re a complete newcomer to classic menswear (welcome, take a seat wherever you like) you're unlikely to need me preaching to you about the elegance of a shawl-collar cardigan. You’re already a member of the choi...
A Guide to Shawl-Collar Cardigans
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Hi! I’m looking for a shorter cardigan because I’m not the tallest of guys. Apart from the Anderson Sheppard one, which is the shortest? Based on size guides online, it seems that Drake’s has the shortest one with ...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth peake...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
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Thank you for the suggestion, if I can I'd love to. One thing is that it tends to make sense to wait a couple of years or more before covering a new tailor, as many change in that time...
Holiday attire: A sliding scale of formality
By Manish Puri Last week’s article by Simon, ‘Which office are you? A cold current 2024 update’ , focused on cold, wintry colours. I’m here to provide a similar step through using warmer, summery tones. The colours I’ve...
Holiday attire: A sliding scale of formality
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Have you visited Adret? their choices of cloth are something else, 'exotic' yes, different and unique lots of texture yes! cheap? i mean i saw the hand work and it is mind blowing how many hand stitches are in the hems a...
Reader profile: James
James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi. James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...
Reader profile: James
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Nice to hear Ragnar...
How to wear a shawl or stole
A shawl (or stole) can be a really practical thing to wear. Simply hung round the neck, it’s a lovely layer of warmth down the front of the body and on the back of the neck. And when looped or tied, it’s also effective protection against...
How to wear a shawl or stole
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Perhaps smaller sizes might work - I'd worry lighter fabrics might not wrap so well, though perhaps if you're a woman that look works more easily...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. ...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
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I made mine with Yves Salomon in London. Their headquarters is in Paris. Most furriers would be able to make something though....
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one of my favou...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Aha, yes it does make sense, sorry. I don't think that would make a big difference to be honest. It will still be good with those two colours of jeans I think...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
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Lovely to hear, thank you. A&S made it, it's a dark grey worsted...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Manish, which bespoke tailors, with an upper budget cap of £2500, can create a mid-night blue or within that ball-park a jacket designed for versatility and comfort, meeting the following specifications: a very relaxed,...
Come to our last talk of the year, with Anda Rowland
Our next talk at Mortimer House will be in a couple of weeks, on Friday November 17th. And this time we're interviewing Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard on what the future holds for Savile Row. Anda has been involved in the Row since 2005...
Come to our last talk of the year, with Anda Rowland
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They're Alden full straps...
The style of King Charles: Top-level classic mens...
A friend of mine once told me about regular meetings with Prince Charles (as he then was). Assembled at Clarence House, a team of six would wait in a shockingly cold room, to the extent that anyone who was near a window could see their breath. Charl...
The style of King Charles: Top-level classic mens...
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And I rather like that he fastens the bottom right button on his DB suits rather than leaving it unfastened. On just about anybody else one might say that this is a bit of a sartorial faux pas. But it just shows that he ...
Reader profile: Ian
Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...
Reader profile: Ian
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No, sorry Max...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
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Many thanks, Simon!...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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I actually think that's quite a nice mix for something like this that is meant to be technical, so more water resistant. It feels nice. I found it a bit too short for me, but then I'm above average height so it's always ...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
1 Double-breasted towelling robe Anderson & Sheppard, £395 The sartorial design of this robe from Anderson & Sheppard is so satisfying. It basically has ulster-coat lapels, with one buttoning under the chin when the collar is u...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
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I think the off-white x beige is the best yes, even with those trousers...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Lining would help a little, in that it would make it heavier, but really the issue with that kind of tailoring material is that it's designed to have more of a jacket structure to it - canvas and so on...
Indulgent Shawl Cardigan back in stock, with new ...
*NB: The black shawl actually has black-horn buttons, not light brown as in the sample shown.* After a good few weeks' delay, I'm pleased to say that the Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan is finally back in stock - in a new black iteration as well as ...
Indulgent Shawl Cardigan back in stock, with new ...
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Medium...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good candidate for...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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- No, that isn't usually the case. Most tailors prefer two or four and use those across both suits and jackets - No I didn't change these - It doesn't matter that much, no. Four is a little stronger, but I've never had a...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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My apologies George. Yes I chose Anderson & Sheppard for this because I had liked so much my blue linen jacket from them. It is not a casual jacket as a result, but given the colour I'm not sure I would ever have worn it...
The appeal of a silk dressing gown – at New...
As I wrote earlier this year , I’m usually quite conservative when it comes to gowns. They’re very practical for me, thrown on early in the morning to get up with one of my three daughters. They can still be luxurious, and beautifully m...
The appeal of a silk dressing gown – at New...
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If I dressed like this in morning, I'd make the most of it. Step outside to grab the paper, puff on a morning cigar a bit and then stuff the remains in the nearest flower pot... grumble loudly about something in the pape...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the int...
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
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I haven't, no...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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Good point Edward. I have, but you need a collar that's a little higher than most, so it is actually taller than the jacket collar. Also, it helps if it's the structure of shirt I generally favour - lightweight fusing. T...
