Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

February 16th 2024

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

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No problem John...

ClothFebruary 16th 2024

The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)

November 17th 2023

Readers have asked in the past what it’s like developing new clothing, what helps and hinders, what the challenges are. One piece of advice a friend gave me a while ago was to visit the factory more than you think - that even a one-day, flying...

The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)

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Cheers Riccardo, yes you can't really ever please/fit the majority of people...

ShirtsNovember 17th 2023

Reader profile: David E

December 19th 2022

David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...

Reader profile: David E

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That’s very encouraging. May give him a commission soon. Many thanks Lindsay...

StyleDecember 19th 2022

Reader profile: Ben C

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben C

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Love the semi-casual....

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

Reader profile: David

September 24th 2021

This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...

Reader profile: David

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I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...

September 24th 2021

Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt

July 26th 2021

Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...

Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt

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That is terribly sad. Might have to do a vintage tour around Tokyo or purchase the one that Fullcount is offering. Hoping it works out....

ShirtsJuly 26th 2021

Introducing: The PS linen overshirt

June 25th 2021

For a long time, my favourite linen overshirt has been an old model from Drake’s - readers will have seen it previously here , and it’s been worn continuously and lovingly since. One of the reasons I liked that model was that it had jus...

Introducing: The PS linen overshirt

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yes I agree...

June 25th 2021

PS (shorter) shorts are back

June 9th 2021

The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...

PS (shorter) shorts are back

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Hey, I do wear them and I'm still a 43, though you're right, the sizing is a bit unpredictable. I think QC like that is one of the things that people often don't appreciate from getting from a tiny operation rather than ...

Casual clothing - TrousersJune 9th 2021

My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...

My shirt collars

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It depends on the shirt - whether it suits the style (eg good on an oxford, not on a western shirt), and whether it suits the collar style (point collar yes, cutaway collar no)...

Shirts - January 27th 2021

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

July 17th 2020

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

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Mostly the style...

Shirts - SuitsJuly 17th 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

Which sports-jacket office are you?

June 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

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Yes that can be an issue. Look at Italian jacketings in particular, around 11-13oz if there are some. And go for a subtle pattern in the weave like a herringbone...

StyleJune 5th 2019

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

February 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

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Hi Ryan, We are expecting a restock of the shirts and cloth in September, unfortunately we had some delays from the cloth mill. Best Lucas...

ShirtsFebruary 8th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

February 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

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I think that's along the right lines, yes. The drape is also something you can tweak a little bit at fittings...

SuitsFebruary 6th 2019

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

January 21st 2019

  In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

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I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...

January 21st 2019

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

August 6th 2018

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and best suited to the othe...

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

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I don't know off the top of my head, but if you refer to this project we did, I'm sure Luca will know...

Shirts - August 6th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate

January 18th 2018

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate

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Awesome article Simon. Very informative. Your photography is perfect and this type of content is hard to find. You are right i found it interesting because of the video. Nice crowd and very well explained everything i al...

Shirts - VideoJanuary 18th 2018

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

January 17th 2018

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

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Interesting Thanks again....

ShirtsJanuary 17th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

January 15th 2018

Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

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I just felt the northern and southern Italian had more distinct styles, and wanted to be as international as possible so bring in Asia and the US. Would have liked to include a dozen other makers......

ShirtsJanuary 15th 2018

High/low dressing

December 6th 2017

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...

High/low dressing

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Similar, yes...

Hanks and scarves - HatsDecember 6th 2017

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

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How wonderful, thanks for letting me know Michael...

October 25th 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

October 13th 2017

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

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Hi Tamesh Personally, I think it could work well - it's not that dissimilar to what Simon is wearing in the first look (minus the knitwear)...

Denim - KnitwearOctober 13th 2017

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Re...

October 9th 2017

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile they had created was rather...

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Re...

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Thanks a million Simon - much appreciated..!!...

Casual clothingOctober 9th 2017

Introducing: Everyday Denim

October 4th 2017

Today I’m very proud to launch a new collaboration, produced jointly by myself, Albiate and Luca Avitabile: ‘ Everyday Denim’. We picked the name because it is a shirt a man in a modern office can wear every day: an update on the c...

Introducing: Everyday Denim

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Just to be clear Gilles, our denim is different - we only started offering it because Thomas Mason discontinued it...

October 4th 2017

How to dress for very hot weather

August 16th 2017

  As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...

How to dress for very hot weather

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It certainly is Shem, yes, just a little harder on style and elegance. It's hard to go into all things here, but I think it becomes very much about the cut of those other pieces. Eg you want to avoid both top and bottom ...

Jackets - ShirtsAugust 16th 2017