The seven shirts I ordered last year
We don't talk about shirt commissions that often on Permanent Style, unlike suits or coats or shoes. But I steadily add a handful every year, on top of the PS ones we make up like the Madras or Ramie . The choices tend to be a mix of remaking old f...
The seven shirts I ordered last year
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Oh good, so lovely to hear Gez...
Old friends
During our recent trip to Naples, there was a lovely moment when shooting outside Marinella, the famous tie shop. Maurizio Marinella (above) the proprietor, came out and greeted me. “Simon, come in, come in!” There was a pause, and then...
Old friends
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Hi - apologies for this slightly tangential question but this article seems the most appropriate place to ask it, being loosely Naples-related. On holiday(s) in the area - Bacoli, Procida etc. - I have seen slightly olde...
How the Permanent Style Madras was woven
On Friday we’ll be launching our hand-woven Madras shirts, a collaboration we’re really proud of - both because of the people we visited in Chennai that made it so authentically, and because of the unique comfort and quality of the cloth...
How the Permanent Style Madras was woven
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The cloth is on sale here Heath (though it is currently sold out - more is coming soon)...
The Suede Overshirt made-to-order programme
The Suede Overshirt in tobacco has recently been restocked on PS, having sold out quickly back in the spring. But we’re also going to try a made-to-order programme, as the makers Rifugio are happy to make in small numbers. The idea is that re...
The Suede Overshirt made-to-order programme
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Only in October I'm afraid - we do two a year...
How my shirt fit has changed in the past 15 years
I know, a graph! Given the nerdery that’s often included on these pages, I’m surprised it’s taken so long for us to lead with a graph. (Mobile users: try opening the image in a new tab.) Let me tell you what it shows. This plots my...
How my shirt fit has changed in the past 15 years
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Sorry Liam, yes I think I misspoke there, an M fits me well...
Introducing: The Suede Overshirt
A few readers have asked over the years about a suede overshirt on PS - particularly following the series of articles we did this time last year, on jacket substitutes like overshirts , chores and tebas . So when we visited the suede workshop Rifug...
Introducing: The Suede Overshirt
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No worries. I'd say I wear it open most of the time, yes. Occasionally I button it for warmth, but that's rare...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
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A navy blazer is undoubtedly the safest choice (my own first bespoke piece was a navy flannel blazer), but its one of drawbacks is, I see often one encounters the same uniform elsewhere. At a recent conference, I saw a g...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
Readers have asked in the past what it’s like developing new clothing, what helps and hinders, what the challenges are. One piece of advice a friend gave me a while ago was to visit the factory more than you think - that even a one-day, flying...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
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Cheers Riccardo, yes you can't really ever please/fit the majority of people...
Reader profile: David E
David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...
Reader profile: David E
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That’s very encouraging. May give him a commission soon. Many thanks Lindsay...
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
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Love the semi-casual....
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
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I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
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More non-jacket myself...
Introducing: The PS linen overshirt
For a long time, my favourite linen overshirt has been an old model from Drake’s - readers will have seen it previously here , and it’s been worn continuously and lovingly since. One of the reasons I liked that model was that it had jus...
Introducing: The PS linen overshirt
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Hi James, A local tailor should be able to do that. On the waist, I'd suggest wearing it a couple of times to be sure what you want, as it's not something you can reverse. Same goes for the sleeves to an extent, as the s...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
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Thanks Simon...
My shirt collars
When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we’ve talked...
My shirt collars
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Yes, it's often something I play about with during an appointment with a bespoke maker. It can work affectively - buttons tend to be set the same for different sizes of shirt even, but of course we are all quite differen...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
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Mostly the style...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
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No it hasn't...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
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No the colours won't fade that way. I don't tend to wash them damp, but if I could be bothered to do so, they would be slightly easier to iron...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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Sure. When I say the shoulders are still strong I mean: - There is a little bit of padding in the shoulders, so they still make a firm straight line - There is a little bit of roping, so the shoulder line continues into ...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and mo...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
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I think there's probably lots you can take from traditional country clothing, MB. In the UK, that would be looking at things like tweed jackets, cord or moleskin trousers, and more substantial boots. It all goes together...
Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo
Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and best suited to the othe...
Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo
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That's unfortunate! Appreciate the response, cheers Simon....
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
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Awesome article Simon. Very informative. Your photography is perfect and this type of content is hard to find. You are right i found it interesting because of the video. Nice crowd and very well explained everything i al...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
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Interesting Thanks again....
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
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I just felt the northern and southern Italian had more distinct styles, and wanted to be as international as possible so bring in Asia and the US. Would have liked to include a dozen other makers......
