Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

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In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder.

Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolitan style.

It is closer to the original cut developed by Vincenzo Attolini, who re-made the suits of the English to use less padding and lighter canvas, making them better suited to southern Italy.

Attolini did not fundamentally alter the proportions, however, and this Ciardi suit hasn't much either. The shoulders are still strong, the body easy, the length easily covering the seat.

Indeed, given all the English tailoring we’ve already covered in this series, it will be interesting to compare the Ciardi measurements to those houses. And in subsequent weeks to see how other Neapolitans vary between the twin poles of this and Solito.

House: Sartoria Ciardi

Address: Via Giuseppe Fiorelli 12, Naples

Site: www.sartoriaciardi.com

Cutter: Enzo Ciardi

Price (at time of writing): €3200 (incl VAT)

Suit starting price: €3200 (incl VAT)

 

The most important thing to keep in mind with this suit, which Enzo Ciardi cut for me in 2018, is the thick cotton it is made from (Drapers, Cotton & Cotton 4844, 13oz).

Cottons are wonderful in many ways, particularly comfort and ageing. But they have no drape.

So while the straight lines are nice and sharp (see skirt and vents) the curved lines in the waist or elbow will always be crumpled.

They will soften over time, and the colour will fade naturally - but that requires wearing and washing. It will probably even be nicer (but take longer) than lightweight cottons like my Caliendo suit.

In terms of style and proportion, the first thing to note with the jacket is its length. The back seam is 31¾ inches long, more than an inch longer than the more modern Solito.

This puts it towards the shorter end of the English tailors (though still longer than Anderson & Sheppard) and around the same as the Milanese like Ferdinando Caraceni.

The buttoning point is proportionately lower still, a full inch lower than Solito and one of the lowest we’ve looked at in this series.

The next important point is the fit around the body. Few modern Neapolitan jackets have any drape in the chest (excess fabric, adding fullness/strength but also comfort), but Ciardi does.

Indeed, if you look at the side-on shot of the suit above, you can see there is little suppression in the waist at all - the back runs in an almost uninterrupted line from top to bottom.

This is particularly noteworthy on my body shape, where my larger shoulder blades and hollow back make it hard to avoid some suppression.

The upper back also has more drape than most Neapolitans - an effect exaggerated by the stiffness and light colour of the cloth.

These factors all contribute to making the jacket very comfortable, while still retaining a flattering impression and ‘X shape’ at the front.


Interestingly, the shoulders are not that wide - only a quarter inch wider than the Solito.

But this measurement only runs the length of the shoulder seam, from the collar to the beginning of the sleevehead.

The bigger difference is the roping on the Ciardi jacket, which effectively extends the line of the shoulder out into the top of the sleeve. Few modern Neapolitans have this, and it adds at least another half inch to the width.

As a technical aside, this jacket is also one of the few I’ve had made that has a ‘spalla camicia’ construction all the way down the front and back of the sleevehead.

This construction, where the the sleeve appears to run underneath the shoulder, is usually only employed on a smaller section of the sleevehead, and sometimes just at the front.

One area where Neapolitan jackets are usually significantly different to their English cousins - but less commented upon than sleeve or structure - is the opening below the waist button.

Here Ciardi is again more conservative than Solito, being a little more closed. However, it still retains the roundness of that front edge that you rarely see outside Italy.

The comparison is most stark against the Anderson & Sheppard linen jacket (see post at that link). Its opening is actually larger than the Ciardi, but the lines of the opening are much straighter.

Elsewhere on this suit, the lapel is quite broad at 3¾ inches, and the gorge (the notch in the lapel) quite high at 3⅛ inches from the shoulder seam.

The vent is quite long, befitting its length, the sleeve only subtly tapered towards the cuff.

It is a slightly more formal cut than the modern Neapolitans and, on most people, a more flattering one. It’s the key reason my first suit from Ciardi was a more business-like four-ply wool.

The broad blue-and-white striped shirt is from Luca Avitabile, with blue wool tie and yellow handkerchief from the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery.

I rarely wear bright shirts or ties with summery suits like this, but tend to add colour in a handkerchief: here a slightly unusual ikat-print cotton.

The loafers are the Piccadilly model from Edward Green, in dark-oak antique calf.

You can see the full list of posts in this series - which is gradually comparing the cuts of every major bespoke tailor I've used - in the dedicated page here. 

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

 Style breakdown:

  • Shoulder width: 6 inches
  • Shoulder padding: Thin canvas plus felt
  • Sleevehead: Moderate roping
  • Sleeve: Straight, only slightly tapered
  • Lapel: 3¾ inches
  • Gorge height: 3⅛ inches
  • Drape: Moderate
  • Outbreast pocket height: 10 inches
  • Buttoning point: 19½ inches
  • Waist suppression: Small
  • Back seam: Straight, little suppression
  • Quarters: Moderate opening, from first button
  • Length: 31¾ inches
  • Vent height: 9¼ inches
  • Trouser circumference at knee: 19¾ inches
  • Trouser circumference at cuff: 15¼ inches

Photography: Jamie Ferguson

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Gab

Very nice Simon. Hard to tell the color on a laptop screen, though. What would you say it is, I guess somewhere between grey and light olive?

Joel

Love the new style of post listing the name, address, price and style breakdown.

And the last photo, you look really happy which is nice to see. I’m not sure you know how a smile can make a difference to someone. I’m often in hospital and once when smiling at a total stranger when passing, she came over to me to tell me my smile made her day as no-one smiles in hospital.

Arvid

Very nice suit. The only thing I don’t like is the high gorge; are you happy with it?

JB

Very nice.
I notice the trousers are cut with quite the break, more so than on many of your other trousers. Is this down to their house style or something else?

Given that it’s a thicker cotton I assume it will fade very nicely over time, but it looks like this fabric will risk getting shiny rather than matt/faded in worn areas. Perhaps just due to color and lighting in the pictures?

J.

The fit looks right, jacket length a tad too long for my taste but overall looks very balanced and I love the colour/fabric combination. I personally quite like Ciardi’s roping, which in my experience with them complements nicely the cut of their double breasted jackets, although I accept it is not to everyone’s liking. Well done to Ciardi for cutting a lovely suit.

Mac

Hi Simon
A very very nice suit, although I prefer the Caliendo style.
I have a couple of trousers from the same bunch, do you think this colour would be good as an odd trouser, to go with a beige linen jacket for example?

WES WP

Do you ever get “style fatigue?” What I mean by that is – I often find myself coming to this site (and others like it that are less wonderful) only to see you modeling yet another bespoke suit (cotton, wool, etc.), or discussing another distinction between regional tailors, or facilitating more discussions about gorges or lapel widths or millimeters of fabric.

I love clothing – and the idea of having a signature style – I just wonder if the effect of having a post a day (or three – four a week) is that the reader becomes numb to it all.

I’m no fan of Michael Williams at A Continuous Lean – and his commentary is thin at best – but he offers the “less is more” model of only having a new post once in great while.

I wonder how others feel about this.

You seem to have a new suit, coat, or blazer (or s.c.) every few days.

It’s not a criticism – as I love your work and you – it’s more of a personal reaction to something.

Maybe I should visit the site less. But I keep coming back.

Nick

I do understand Wes’ point.

In terms of your wardrobe, Simon, When is enough enough? The projects are always interesting but at some point having so much starts to look greedy

Chancellor

I’ll just write that I’m slightly in awe of your dedication to replying to all our questions, even on old posts. I think that would fatigue me! Needless to write, it’s very much appreciated and has been extremely helpful to me!

JH

Would love to see a post on Cifonelli in this series as part of covering “every major bespoke tailor” that you’ve used.

Hugh

On the Neapolitan tailors scale, would you put this towards the same end as Sartoria Zizolfi?

Scott

The roping on the shoulder is a bit unusual for a Neapolitan tailor isn’t it? Personally I’ve never cared for the rope shoulder look. Is this type of shoulder just part of the Ciardi style or did you chose this design for a particular reason? Are there any particular benefits to having a roped shoulder versus the more traditional sleeve shoulder?

Anonymous

Now I’m confused.

You say in the text that you have gone for “Spalla Camicia”, but in this reply you are talking about the extent of the roping on the sleevehead.

It can only be one or the other, not both. The pictures definitely suggest roping.

Also did you choose the lapped seams, or is this just how it turned out?

Thanks

Scott

Thanks for the education on this important point. By the way, that EG penny loafer looks fantastic. I think I like it better than the John Lobb Lopez. Why did you choose this model?

Scott

I had a pair of EG shoes, but they ended up on my son’s feet more than mine and, as a result, ended up in his closet. I’m a big fan of John Lobb and own several pair, but EG may require another look. In addition to the Piccadilly model, I also like the EG boot the Galway. Discussing all things sartorial is so much fun!

Scott

Actually the fit was excellent, but he liked the shoe so much that I gave him the pair. The shoe was a beautiful brown cap toe that I later replaced with a John Lobb version. There’s a French shoemaker named Heshung that makes fantastic boots that you might find interesting, great for outdoor and casual wear. My favorite model is the Gingko, No Man Walks Alone carries the line.

Scott

Alden, a U.S. shoemaker, makes excellent boots as well that aren’t as rugged as Heshung, but they’re not in the same league as The EG Galway or EG in general. I have to agree that the Galway is the way to go.

Scott

Several years ago I had made for me an ankle boot from John Lobb called the Tudor that works very well with suits. If they still make it, I think you would really like it.

Max

Would be nice with centimeters in brackets for those of us who are impaired in the imperial metric system.

Justin

Simon-

I find, for trouser style and fit, that front rise really alters the overall structure of a trouser (as I’ve seen clearly by my 10” Thom Sweeney trousers versus my 12.5” Edward Sexton). Perhaps you could include this measurement going forward in the series so readers could analyze that effect. Just a thought. Thanks!

Ruggero

I think it has quite a flattering silhouette.

Anonymous

…speaking as a long term reader: no reader numbness here, Simon’s skill is in keeping the content mixed, interesting and entertaining whilst retaining format and quality – harder than it sounds. Then there is the editorial generosity of hosting the many varied comments adding another layer of detail and enjoyment.

Anonymous

Hi Simon, you mention washing the suit: do you mean dry cleaning or is it the intention (unlikely but as it is cotton) to hand/machine wash?Also the top button – ideally how high above the navel do you prefer the buttoning point? (P.S. the ‘dedicated page’ seems to confusingly display with text overlay of title over contents – viewing on mobile).

Gonzague

Lovely colour. My concern is about cotton fading. On a brown jacket of mine it does not look good at all (it seems the sun took some color away ) and may be even less torelable on a not so casual suit.
The cut is nice, not so sure about the fit: the trousers look looser than the jacket, and like on your former Ciardi suit, the rope seems too close to the top of the arm. It looks like a bump, could possibly have been avoided with a larger width. Maybe it is just the picture after all.

Ben

Everything looks great to my eye except for the silhouette seen from the side. Without suppression and with the cotton fabric, it looks messy. Also given cotton’s tendency to fold sharply, thereby giving little lapel roll, I might have just gone with a 2b instead of the 3r2. All the latter’s adding there seems to be an unused button hole.

A minimally-structured neapolitan with harder lines is probably my go-to cut.

Anonymous

I have looked at the (usefully linked) A&S, Caraceni and Solito: at one end, from side view, the Caraceni silhouette seems slightly stooped, the A&S and Solito midway, the Ciardi the most straight up and down: for me the Ciardi is best – which is your preference? Nice shot at the end by the way…

Christopher Miller

How about some dress shirt ideas?

Anonymous

Love those EGs. I just bought a pair of Oxfords there. I find the first week of wearing shoes most stressful – before they start to develop a patina I am so precious about the slightest mark! This pair also seem to have a new shoe squeak… Will this go away as the leather gets broken in a tad?

Triskel

In relation to JB’s comment on the break, I wonder whether the explanation could be (I know, Simon, that you say we should be cautious about drawing conclusions from photographs) the apparently fairly narrow width of the trousers at the cuff? They look as if they could be 7 inches or less. Simon?

Matt

I’m always surprised at the length of your jackets. Most RTW seems to be around 30″ from the bottom of the collar in a regular length. I know you prefer a more traditional length, but it still surprises me that the majority of RTW, regardless of the maker, is so much shorter.

Joel

Love the suit and especially the sloping shoulders.

Are the shoulders an “Italian” thing? I feel I see a lot of “English” suits are straight across the shoulders and make people look like they are sort of standing in a fabric box.

All the best.

Alec

Hi Simon,
You’ve commissions jackets in heavy cotton from Sartoria Ciardi, Musella Dembech and Ferdinando Caraceni. IMHO all three houses have some interesting similarities; they combine a relatively traditional silhouette with soft construction. Is this a style you think works particularly well with heavy cotton or was the choice more random?

Jason

What is the measurement of the turn up cuff on the trousers please? Looks relatively substantial, and very smart.

ANM

Simon,

I am not sure if there is place in any article for this, but how is Brexit going to affect “Permanent Style?”

It seems everything from exchange rate to tariffs to travel are up in the air…Is there any contingencies you have considered?

Is anyone reviewing things with small businessmen such as yourself. Easily half of what Permanent Style is all about involved the EU….

Dominic Aiello

That is one handsome suit

John S

Hi Simon,

Yet another great suit (I can only assume you have a Narnian size wardrobe) and a delectably nerdy post. However, possibly another photographic trick of the eye, but the circumference at the cuff on these trousers you say is 15 1/4in, however the same measurement on the trousers you wear in the Anderson Sheppard two-button jacketshoot is 17in and appears yet slimmer; on the same shoe. Are these measurements correct ? Is it the fabric? Or just the photo. Many thanks.

Anonymous

Re. the stooping: yes, if you look at the side view. The question is it stance or fit? I ask as the A& S silhouette is better. My own experience is that, for me, it can be both. Sometimes I can stand badly but it can also be the jacket (the jacket wearing me rather than the other way around). This is usually the cut but I would be surprised as it is Caraceni?

Russell Davidson

It’s worth considering the Grenson boot range too. As owner of both Edward Green and Grenson boots, I regard the latter as fantastic value for money. The leather may not be quite the same quality, but if you’re looking for something English made and rugged enough for bad weather, yet also smart enough to wear under a suit you cannot beat the price.

Nik Ismail almurtadza

Simon
Do have a jacket/suits made by Rubinacci?
Like hear your analysis on the work of Rubinacci

Nik

Anonymous

…ha, no the suits weren’t stiff just not well cut. Do have a look at the images though – you’ll see what I mean (Caraceni image 8 vs. Ciardi image 3). Cutters have sometimes said that they can judge the age of a client by the stoop, which, unless the individual is particularly active or fit, starts gently around 30 and gradually increases through each decade. However, Ciardi 3 seems very natural and is without stoop…

JJ

Thank you so much for this series and the entire website. It has been a valuable educational tool for both style and craftsmanship. I have scanned this series, and am having trouble understanding how you measure the buttoning point. Early article allude to a measurement from the “neck point,” but where is that? The reason I ask is that I have had two suits made, and the buttoning point one one suit, to my eye, is an inch and a half higher than on the other – not an insignificant amount for a guy who stands 5’5″. I’m about to order another suit, and I want to make sure there is a difference, and explain it correctly. If I knew where the “neck point” is, I’m sure I can accurately measure to the buttoning point. Thanks to anyone who is able to point me in the right direction.

JJ

Thank you, Simon. Your commitment to responding to so many comments is as impressive as your site.

Michael

Beautiful suit. I love the drape but combined with the slightly cutaway foreparts of the skirt and the roped shoulder. It’s also great to see that the jacket also covers your backside. Jackets that expose the unsightly creasing of one’s trousers under one’s “seat” are not to be encouraged. Are the trousers not, perhaps, an inch too long?

Niels

Hi Simon,
Not a comment on this post specifically, but I’m afraid there is no better place. I enjoy reading your articles on the phone, but the mobile layout wastes a good third on white space instead of text. Are there plans to change that?

Best
Niels

Niels

Yes, exactly. While the layout makes sense on a tablet or pc, on mobile I much prefer wall-to-wall text.

Daniel

An absolutely fantastic suit! I love cotton suits and I find they do particularly well with informal Italian styles.

A lot of people are skeptical to cotton as a suiting fabric but I think it compares well to linen and traditional wool. It has a distinct look that sets it apart from the others, while still being very wearable in an urban spring, summer and early autumn.

Russ

Niels is correct, Simon. It’s a real pain trying to type a comment on a mobile.

Anonymous

For JJ: the neck point, as Simon details, is at the back of the jacket. It roughly relates to the vertebra prominent (C7) in the spine and generally, is at the base of the collar. Other than its relation to lapel placement it bears little importance to the buttoning point unless you measure the buttoning point from there when the jacket is laid flat. Ordinarily a cutter/tailor will position the top button a few inches above the navel. The navel is usually in line with the lowest rib – the buttoning point should sit above this at the natural waistline. If you bend slightly to the side the ‘crease line’ will mark the waistline. Given your height you might prefer a lower button point on or near the navel. This will lengthen the lapel gorge giving the appearance of a longer torso and thus, visually, a longer frame.

JJ

Thank you. Your comments on lengthening the appearance of my torso is precisely the look I am after. The lower button point is what I prefer, and will use. Thanks.

Anonymous

Re. Niels’ point surely an outward pinch would resize/enlarge the text and decrease white space (works on the iPhone)…? p.s. personally I love the clean look.

John

Simon, in a few of your photos the jacket has an “X” at the front. Is that an indication that it’s too tight?

Jonny

Hi Simon,

I’ve been wondering, when you give a lapel gorge measurement, exactly where are you measuring to and from?

Anonymous

Perpendicular to the edge of the lapel (as shown here: https://tinyurl.com/wqv42tz)? Or in a horizontal line? Diagrams would help

Craig

Simon, I have a general question. I am assuming that, like me, your first step in a commission is finding a length of fabric you like. Once that is done, what is your thought process in deciding between single breasted and double breasted? I love both, I wear both, but for every new commission it’s what I perseverate with the most.

Craig

Simon, thanks for the reply. Is this also the reason why you seem to eschew three-piece suits? That they stand out too much (in a negative way)? I can’t recall seeing you commissioning a vest with one of your suits though I may be mistaken. For some reason I think a suit with a vest seems to stand out more than a double breasted suit, and I find it easier to wear the latter.

Nick

Dear Simon,

Do you by any chance know how much Ciardi charge for a jacket ordered in London?

Nick

Nick

Thank you! Is that including VAT?

Gonzague

I can’t decide whether a lower buttoning point adds to casualness or rather the opposite.
What do you think ?

TOS

Simon,
Lovely suit and I particularly love the colour.
How do you think this colour would work for eg a non cotton suit?
Eg a flannel or high twist wool – Implications for the interplay between colour and texture.
Many thanks, as always.

Stephen Pini

Simon,

Do you find there is a big difference in the jacket quarters between Ciardi and Zizolfi?

I find from your photos that Ciardi seem to be more closed (which is closer to my preference) but I was not sure if it was just the images deceiving me.

I am currently torn between the two for my first commission. I really like the style of the double breasted from Zizolfi – it is more subtle than Ciardi – but the more open quarters of the single breasted Zizolfi style bug me and makes me prefer Ciardi. Is this something that can be addressed easily during the cutting process without moving away from the house style?

I’d rather pick one Neapolitan tailor who I can build a relationship with over time and can provide me with both single and double breasted jackets, something I have started doing with W&S which has yielded great results.

Thanks,

Stephen

Alex N.

Dear Stephen and Simon,
I have had very much the same dilemma over the Ciardi and Zizolfi question. I would also ask the following regarding the lapels. The Ciardi lapel looks longer and with less roll than the Zizolfi which I would generally prefer. However, do you think that requesting a bit elongated lapel with a bit less of a roll would be inappropriate from Zizolfi? (I believe it would be mostly a question of how it is ironed rather than how it is cut.) I would pick Zizolfi rather than Ciardi on the double breasted, the shoulder, possibility of collaboration with Pommella and honestly much of it would be due to Ciro himself, whom I met at the talk with Douglas and Gianluca and liked him a lot.
I would also certainly stick with just one tailor.
Regards
Alex

Alex N.

Dear Simon,
Do tailors vary the opening of the quarters depending on whether they are making a suit of a sports coat? Would they vary it between clients without explicit request (on openness on quarters or length of coat)?
Alex

Thomas

First post here.. Wanted to thank you for this series Simon.. It is indeed a treasure for people like me that have been through rtw for years and are just starting out in bespoke . I already have had a couple of jackets made for me by local tailors in Athens.. plus around 4 or 5 pants and some vests too..
Out of all styles reviewed so far I can say that I am attracted the most by Ciardi … While I live in Athens, which gets very hot in the summer and while I can appreciate the more light approach by the modern Neapolitans i.e. Solito etc I am pretty sure that this style is not for me.. I would opt any day for a more structured look but I wouldn’t want it too structured as my figure is quite imposing on its own (I am 6 ft 6, weighing in the area of 230 pounds).. that’s the main reason why I shy away from the Sexton db as I imagine I would look scary in it .. Mr Sexton, as I understand by photos, must be quite smaller than me…
Long story short I think that Ciardi is right up my alley , or rather, right what I would like my alley to look like…. if that makes any sense… (English is not my first language). I understand they visit London .. How often does that happen and how much time do you reckon that I would need to get the finished product ? I reckon 2 or 3 fittings will be enough right?
On a different subject I almost always wear odd jackets with odd pants.. The way I have them made with my local tailors is usually one jacket with two different pants .. do you think that Ciardi could help me pick which different cloth to have each garment made? Obviously I have a pretty good idea on what I like but it’s always good to know that I can get some sort of sound advice as well..
sorry for the long message. questions are not aimed solely to Simon. I would appreciate and be thankful to anyone that can give me some insight .. thank you

THOMAS

Thank you Simon. Any idea on when Ciardi is coming to London .? Also I imagine that while they are there they arrange for someone to translate from English to Italian .. correct?

Oskar

Would you consider pleats in this heavy cotton? Can‘t tell from the pictures what you went with here but assuming a flat front. I imagine a heavier cotton would do better in holding a crease compared to a lighter one, but then it’s still cotton. Any thoughts? I’m seeing Prologue tomorrow and am really drawn to this colour and material. Anything you’d do differently after a couple of months’ wear? Thanks much

Simon Taffin

I find it difficult to see any tangible value here at €3200 (incl VAT).

vi chen

Hello Simon,

Would you wear the jacket separately as a sports coat ?

Ollie

Hey Simon, happy Monday!

I’ve been looking through your Neapolitan commissions over the weekend, they really look great on you- I have a couple of questions, if you’d indulge me…

1- would you say that Ciardi and Zizolfi are the closest representations of the original Neapolitan style introduced by Vincenzo Attolini?

2- you appear to have a lot from Solito. Is this because the style is more casual than some of the other Neapolitans? I’m under the impression that the make isn’t quite as good as some of the other Neapolitan’s.

3. In terms of formality, how would sartorias like Zizolfi & Panico stack up against Liverano?

Keep them coming, I’ve spent way more time on these articles than I would like to admit!

Ollie

Thanks Simon, good to know!

Do Ciardi & Caliendo still travel to London for trunk shows?

Ollie

and how does Ciardi & Caliendo vary in terms of style? I can’t seem to find a good comparison.

Anonymous

Is Enzo able to make a jacket without the darts at the front?

Anonymous

Any news on the chambray date Simon?

J.

This suit looks really great on you. I’m sure that heavy cotton is a pleasure to wear and break in. Would you wear the jacket on its own too or just as a full suit? I was just wondering wy u usually don’t really mention and show the trousers when reviewing a suit. I understand there is more difference between jackets of different tailors but if you ask me they make a huge difference in the overal look and comfort. Thanks

J.

Going a bit more into trouser fit at some point could be interesting. Thanks for the reply!

Brandon

Hello Simon,

Nice suit and its also very reasonably priced. Do you know if there are good bespoke tailors in the Parisian region that are this reasonably priced? I don’t like the shoulder style of Cifonelli ( I would want a neopolitan style shoulder) and find it very expensive too.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

Peter

Hi Simon – how has the cloth broken in? Do you have a favorite cotton bunch? A guide to cotton suiting might be useful. Thank you.

Peter

Interesting that for wool cloths you tend to prefer heavier weight for shape and drape, but in cotton you go with something lightweight with explicitly no shape and drape! What’s your thinking on that?

Is there a cotton that holds a crease that you would recommend? Thank you.

Peter

Ok, so if drape can’t be achieved then just maximize for comfort. Makes sense.

These trousers from AI really do hold a crease, as advertised. A guide to cottons could be useful to talk about why and how and which bunches to look to for which qualities.

https://angloitalian.com/collections/tailoring/products/shaved-cotton-chino-green

Anonymous

The gorge on your other Ciardi suit looks much higher than on this one. Is it just the photo angle, or is there a real difference? If the latter, which one would be the house style or closer to it? Thanks.

Anonymous

Thanks for the reply, Simon. ‘Appreciate the guidance provided by these posts.

Nick

Hi Simon, could you say that this 13oz material is more casual than the gabardine you used in Suzuki and Dembech suits? Also, how has this broken in compared to the caraceni jacket, which I seem to remember was more similar in weight? Lastly, given the weight does this suit get more use in spring/autumn compared to 9oz suits? Apologies for so many questions and have a great weekend!

Michael

Hi Simon, do you go half lined on all your cotton suits or would you ever go fully lined.

Pascal

Hi Simon, little technical question! How is drape created in the back, next to the blade and armhole, and in the front, between the chest and armhole? To me, it is similar to a coat that is not slope enough for the shoulders of the wearer. Is it the same thing, extra fabric verticaly, from the shoulder downwards, but done intentionally, for movement and comfort, or is it horizentaly?

Chris

Dear Simon,
I have now used Whitcomb and Shaftsbury on a few occasions, and am really happy with them. However all for quite traditional pieces, with a saville row feel.
I am though trying for my next commission to make a linen suit up in this exact Ciardi , neopolitan style – I love your pieces from them. I would likely show them this exact image and say – this style please!
However, given travel restrictions and timeframe I’m aiming for, I can not obviously use Ciardi . I am thus considering using W&S, and seeing if they can create something similar . I wonder- do you think this is a mistake and I should just wait? Or with direction do you think W&S could achieve something close?
Any thoughts appreciated!

Chris

Thankyou Simon.
Good to hear you say this, and i will do just that and wait.
From experience, making a mistake with a bespoke piece that you can afford just 1 of a year at a push, is extremely frustrating and painful. I know exactly what i’m aiming for with this commission, so will wait until i can do it without compromise.

shem

Hi simon, I’m looking to save up to buy my first ever cotton suit as I like the idea of one – it seems casual and can be split up in theory, For context I do not own any suits and have three sportscoats – a light blue, a dark navy, and a dark brown check, all in wool. I’m looking to do the suit soft shouldered, with ivy details like swelled edges, patch and flap pockets at the hips. I’m a little unsure of the colour though. Navy seems to be the obvious choice but the more I think about it the more I’m unsure – navy cotton sportscoat seems a little middling given a wool one may be better and is versatile on its own and a navy chino may not be very useful. I’m wondering what are your thoughts on colours of useful cotton suits to own and if there are particular colours of cotton suits that you find yourself breaking up often to wear as separates? Many thanks!