Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
Linen : Linen We haven’t done one of these in a while, but a reader requested one in a comment on the ‘ How to pick shirt fabric ’ article, and it reminded me how useful people find the sliding scales. The idea is we break down tw...
Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
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That's my Armoury suit with a white linen shirt...
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
By Manish Puri. The first dinner suit I ever purchased was from the online vintage shop Savvy Row : a nineties bespoke Anderson & Sheppard double-breasted. And, after some alterations - which, out of a sense of custodianship of the suit, I c...
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
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Hi Isaac, Ah no, don't worry at all, it wasn't taken as criticism! I really see why you would go slightly wider, it would work with the style of the jacket if you want an even more traditional look. I agree about exchang...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
By Manish Puri. For my money it’s the most beautiful building in New York. And yet, despite being lucky enough to have been to the Big Apple on more than a dozen occasions, I’ve never actually been inside the Chrysler. But today, after l...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
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Hi Maurice I think the Hainesworth cloth is wool. At least that’s what it says on their site: Made from wool, the True Heritage range consists of fabrics selected from worsted, over-coating and authentic uniform materi...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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I enjoy reading Manish. Also, he's really handsome =)...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or Suit...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
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Thank you!...
Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review
Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda high. I remembered it as soon as I saw these images - it was one I tried with a higher collar in order to wear with my A&S tailoring, which always has a high collar itself. It looks nice with those pie...
Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review
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Nice point Thomas...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it. Howev...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
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Yes, usually...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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I think I'd leave it up to them and you're feeling when you try it Callum, rather than try and pre-judge it...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covere...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
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No, the Sedwell style never really appealed to me at all unfortunately...
The best German tailors working today
By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkmar Arnulf www.arnulf...
The best German tailors working today
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I am looking for a Chesterfield overcoat in Germany. Something like Roger Moore wore in Live and Let Die. Perhaps, I am not ready yet for full bespoke. Can Herr Roetzel recommend something good in Germany that is Mt...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference pressing makes, and the ones w...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
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True, though people sometimes use the term to mean slightly different things, eg someone who designs tailored clothing. I don't know though no!...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at Graham Browne . However, even...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
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Cream is great, but is a little showy. If it's your first I'd suggest something like dark brown or beige. See my Sexton and Armoury ones...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Buck Mason just premiered their collaboration with Bryceland's, and I was PUMPED because I had been anticipating it for a while. The pieces look fantastic, but alas nothing fits... I always gear myself up for disappointm...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
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Hey David, If I remember correctly, those were my charbrown flannels from Fox, made bespoke by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
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Yes...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
This suit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a couple of times on PS. Once during the fitting process in Seoul , where it frankly looked impossibly clean. And once when I wore it for our summer drinks in the Burlington Arcade. No sui...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
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No problem!...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
I’ve regularly worn T-shirts or crewnecks under tailoring over the years. Not as frequently as a collared shirt, but when you’re always looking for more ways to wear suits and jackets, the more relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial app...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
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Cheers John...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
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Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
Husbands in Paris makes quality menswear - tailoring and related clothing - in a particular seventies-influenced style that has remained impressively consistent over the past dozen years. The suits aren’t usually my style, but the fabrics are ...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
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I have both pre-post change manufacture, the new factory is definitely fast...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
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Hi Vicky, To be honest it's unlikely we would cover you if you are in Thailand and not travelling around the world I'm afraid, as it would only be relevant to a very small selection of readers...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
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Sure!...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
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Simon A series I came across, possibly interesting to the wider community. https://www.voguebusiness.com/tag/cut-from-another-cloth This seemed to be the best entry to put it under. Regards...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Manish, which bespoke tailors, with an upper budget cap of £2500, can create a mid-night blue or within that ball-park a jacket designed for versatility and comfort, meeting the following specifications: a very relaxed,...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Yes, I'd say a tie isn't necessary but that sounds nice Jack. I would play with the jacket done up and undone and see how you feel...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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I always joked with my tailor that Solaro looked like heat rash--the sort of thing one might end up with wearing 12 ounce twill beneath the tropical sun. Recently, however, that same tailor happened upon a vintage length...
