Look at me! The white suit on screen
By Robbie Collin. Robbie is the chief film critic for The Telegraph, a PS reader and a menswear enthusiast. On February 2nd 1660, Samuel Pepys passed the evening with half a dozen friends at Harper’s, a tavern by the King Street gate of Whiteh...
Look at me! The white suit on screen
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Here is my version in Fox Flannel from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdash...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
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The pricing is really a stretch for most people, even for me, who read PS constantly and wear bespoke tailoring for most of the time. Vick Tailor in Tokyo offers nice British style bespoke suit for 70-80% of the price co...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni bespoke tailoring: R...
Last year, I wrote about how one of my favourite tailors in Milan - Ferdinando Caraceni - was closing. It was an interesting article about the challenges of running a bespoke tailor today, but sad for all the customers that had built up a relationsh...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni bespoke tailoring: R...
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Great article. Fantastic suits. You have very good taste. Crisp photography....
Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review
I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year - in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure. The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all it...
Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review
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Good question. Mohair has a stiffness, a sharpness, that differentiates it. The shine is also more of a lustre, though that's a subtler factor...
Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
Linen : Linen We haven’t done one of these in a while, but a reader requested one in a comment on the ‘ How to pick shirt fabric ’ article, and it reminded me how useful people find the sliding scales. The idea is we break down tw...
Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
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Not a navy suit too?...
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
By Manish Puri. The first dinner suit I ever purchased was from the online vintage shop Savvy Row : a nineties bespoke Anderson & Sheppard double-breasted. And, after some alterations - which, out of a sense of custodianship of the suit, I c...
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
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Personally, I think it would be a hard one to pull off. But then I'm inherently pretty conservative...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
By Manish Puri. For my money it’s the most beautiful building in New York. And yet, despite being lucky enough to have been to the Big Apple on more than a dozen occasions, I’ve never actually been inside the Chrysler. But today, after l...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
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Gorgeous and opulent...I couldn't stop with the 'ooohhs' while viewing the pictures. That has to be a very fine trenchcoat to wear. That tux jacket is top shelf. All very good clothes that make a distinct statement about...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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I enjoy reading Manish. Also, he's really handsome =)...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or Suit...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
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Thank you!...
Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review
Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda high. I remembered it as soon as I saw these images - it was one I tried with a higher collar in order to wear with my A&S tailoring, which always has a high collar itself. It looks nice with those pie...
Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review
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Yes, in general they would, though often because the circumference of the body there is just bigger, as it goes round the back particulalry...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it. Howev...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
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Yes, usually...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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I think I'd leave it up to them and you're feeling when you try it Callum, rather than try and pre-judge it...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covere...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
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No, the Sedwell style never really appealed to me at all unfortunately...
The best German tailors working today
By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkmar Arnulf www.arnulf...
The best German tailors working today
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Hey Simon, U write about James but what is with Purwin & Radczun… I‘ll missing them in your list....
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference pressing makes, and the ones w...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
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Hi Roy, In the end, if you do a lot of physical exercise your body is going to change now and again, and bespoke will never be able to fit perfectly. Unfortunately that's inevitable. But I would suggest perhaps having th...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at Graham Browne . However, even...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
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Cream is great, but is a little showy. If it's your first I'd suggest something like dark brown or beige. See my Sexton and Armoury ones...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Pleasure James...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
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If you're familiar with Florentine style, that's what 15 is recreating. But if you're not, it's essentially a wider shoulder and sligtly more sharpness to the cut...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
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If you love that linen then you clearly don't mind heavier stiffer things! The AdL is great, I love it, though I wouldn't say it feels that heavy. Spring Ram is a great high twist but quite scratchy to my taste. I'm not ...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
This suit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a couple of times on PS. Once during the fitting process in Seoul , where it frankly looked impossibly clean. And once when I wore it for our summer drinks in the Burlington Arcade. No sui...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
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I wouldn't say it would be easy to dress down or to wear as a separate jacket, no. High-twists like Ascot are hard as jackets as we discuss here. And a high-twist is also fairly smart. You might want a knitted polo...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
I’ve regularly worn T-shirts or crewnecks under tailoring over the years. Not as frequently as a collared shirt, but when you’re always looking for more ways to wear suits and jackets, the more relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial app...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
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Cheers John...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
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Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
Husbands in Paris makes quality menswear - tailoring and related clothing - in a particular seventies-influenced style that has remained impressively consistent over the past dozen years. The suits aren’t usually my style, but the fabrics are ...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
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I think you'd have to like a clearly longer jacket James, yes. But then, you have to like the Husbands style generally I think for it to work well - a few things will be a little unusual in that way - so that may not be ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
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Hi Vicky, To be honest it's unlikely we would cover you if you are in Thailand and not travelling around the world I'm afraid, as it would only be relevant to a very small selection of readers...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
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None, I'm afraid...
