Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Match in comments:
I haven't, I'm afraid. I've only visited the store and had them recommended by a friend...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article here and a subsequent piece on Bill Fioravanti here* By Manish Puri It’s 1966 and you’re Truma...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
Match in comments:
Very enjoyable. A bit of social history....
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasin...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
Match in comments:
Who would one go to now in NYC should one want the 57th Street Look? Will you be covering Ivy tailors as well in this series? It'll be interesting to know more about the bespoke operations of Brooks Brothers (which stopp...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
Match in comments:
Just one further comment. Custom clothing was also sold in stores which mostly featured RTW. For example, Brooks Brothers had a custom department which it closed in 1976. The closure made the front page of the New York T...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Match in comments:
Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition. The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you&rsq...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
Match in comments:
Long time client here with 50+ commissions. The cut is their own version of the 30’s era drape. Well defined shoulders, no exaggerated details, very high quality finishing. Nothing that draws attention to the suit. Mod...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
Match in comments:
Thank you Simon. Have a great day! -Tony...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. Wh...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
Match in comments:
Excellent, many thanks Peter. Wellies starting the week after that late summer I guess :)...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
Match in comments:
Some observations: I like how you told them to place a buttonhole at the centre for the watch chain. I came up with another neat solution that avoids having to sew a buttonhole, and instead hide on in a central seam, whi...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
Match in comments:
Pleasure Jim, and very pleased it worked for you...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
Match in comments:
Aleks is correct. Plain grey trousers aren't part of the traditional morning coat outfit. If you wore plain grey trousers with a morning coat to a wedding then people who care about classic menswear would notice this, an...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Match in comments:
Oh...Stephen...I totally agree with that. The only thing is that the trousers and shirt poking out of them are my regular office look. I like the look but it is very annoying always tuck your shirt into your pants. And w...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that fol...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
Match in comments:
Stefan, I started my Apprenticeship as a jacket maker with A&S when I was 15, I’m now 75and still do the occasional jkt, back in the 60s you probably would have to have had a couple of recommendations, I remember w...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
Just before Christmas, I organised a Permanent Style Christmas dinner, to thank a few people that had helped and supported PS in recent years. We were hosted by Geordie D’Anyers Willis of Berry Bros & Rudd, which was kind of Geordie, ...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
Match in comments:
Great, sounds good David...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
Match in comments:
To be honest Oscar, I'm not settled on what I think about it as I wore it yesterday, let alone with any of those other pieces! I think it'll need a bit of time playing around with to have anything like a firm opinion. Th...
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben
Match in comments:
Love the semi-casual....
Brioni bespoke tailoring
A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
Match in comments:
I see. To be honest I'm not sure size is a great indicator of that either - you only have to look at Michael Browne, one of the smallest but with a really strong reputation. Equally Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, whom I really ...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of e...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
I would depending on the country and on the cord. Cords vary quite a lot, and baby cords can be soft and light, so might not be too hot. Equally if the weather seemed appropriate - eg in London right now it's overcast an...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We di...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
Match in comments:
Hey there, One inch is a fairly big change, it could affect the way the collar is sitting. However, if your neck has changed that much, presumably your body has changed as well? That will make a much bigger difference. E...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Match in comments:
Santandrea I have effectively tried with The Armoury, here. Belvest I don't really have any access to, it's not offered in the UK. Rossi I don't really have any interest in trying no, the styling has never really appeale...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
Match in comments:
I think stripes can work, they're just harder, eg a casual flannel with a fizzy stripe - brown chalkstripe perhaps - can look good, though it is a touch more showy. Cord shirts can be nice, yes. Roll necks often look goo...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
Match in comments:
The nicest is cream, grey always works, and green can be good too. Even black. I wouldn't wear a linen jacket in winter myself...
The T-shirt under tailoring
I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
The T-shirt under tailoring
Match in comments:
I wouldn't say so, no - I outline my favourite knit colours under a jacket here...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
Match in comments:
I don't think it has changed much, John, but I would give them a call and ask (before an appointment), they're very nice and will tell you promptly. I agree though that tailors put people off by not being more transparen...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
Match in comments:
No, I would say there would be a difference with the high twists. On structured for summer tailoring, definitely one with less structure will be cooler. It's hard to say whether it will be radical change for you, as we a...
