The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed

July 10th 2024

The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...

The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed

Match in comments:
I'm going to demur on a few points. I think the soft shoulders do work better on shorter men. They typically have squarer shoulders (whether narrow or broad). Fred Astaire looked fantastic in the drape cut. Cary Grant lo...

SuitsJuly 10th 2024

Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb

June 26th 2024

Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...

Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb

Match in comments:
I have three pairs of Art du Lin trousers - really beautiful but would not buy again, they are just too fragile - have worn them a dozen times or so very carefully but there is noticeable fading and wear around seat, poc...

Style - SuitsJune 26th 2024

Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review

May 20th 2024

This suit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a couple of times on PS. Once during the fitting process in Seoul , where it frankly looked impossibly clean. And once when I wore it for our summer drinks in the Burlington Arcade. No sui...

Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review

Match in comments:
It depends on the situation. A knitted polo and a linen shirt could certainly work, but the trousers would make the outfits fairly smart - more like a casual office look...

SuitsMay 20th 2024

Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...

April 17th 2024

I’ve regularly worn T-shirts or crewnecks under tailoring over the years. Not as frequently as a collared shirt, but when you’re always looking for more ways to wear suits and jackets, the more relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial app...

Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...

Match in comments:
Thanks John - mildly disagree as we discussed at length here, but good to have the contribution...

SuitsApril 17th 2024

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

April 8th 2024

By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

Match in comments:
Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...

Coats - HatsApril 8th 2024

Husbands: Still sexy after all these years 

April 3rd 2024

Husbands in Paris makes quality menswear - tailoring and related clothing - in a particular seventies-influenced style that has remained impressively consistent over the past dozen years. The suits aren’t usually my style, but the fabrics are ...

Husbands: Still sexy after all these years 

Match in comments:
I can offer some first hand experience here. I put in a MTO order at Husbands in September. I think at the time they indicated it would be ready in January. I didn't hear anything and followed up in January and was told ...

SuitsApril 3rd 2024

B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style

February 5th 2024

When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...

B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style

Match in comments:
I think you can Tony, yes, though worth checking with them...

SuitsFebruary 5th 2024

The breadth and style of Korean tailoring

December 18th 2023

On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...

The breadth and style of Korean tailoring

Match in comments:
Sure!...

SuitsDecember 18th 2023

The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video

December 11th 2023

This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...

The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video

Match in comments:
Great interview, had time to watch it properly now. Lots of interesting history and also positivity, A&S is in safe hands....

Suits - VideoDecember 11th 2023

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

November 29th 2023

By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

Match in comments:
Depends how long it’s been since the last suit. Have you gained or lost weight, become more muscular etc. I’ve also found that different material drapes a little differently… but perhaps that could be adjusted in t...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 29th 2023

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

November 10th 2023

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

Match in comments:
The Faloni ones don't, I've tried them, and I don't know about the Saman ones but I seem to recall they were better but still not great. It's a problem we tried to solve for a reason unfortunately. The only other ones I'...

Knitwear - SuitsNovember 10th 2023

The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

October 11th 2023

Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...

The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

Match in comments:
Personally I did what you're thinking, Kristian--I ordered a reddish/brown half lining for my new solaro suit. But I live in Italy and am a bit more at ease with (relatively) showy tailored clothing. I would not however ...

SuitsOctober 11th 2023

Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...

September 6th 2023

There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...

Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...

Match in comments:
No, sorry. There is often a stitch there for strength, but it's usually very fine - not really that hard to do for a quality tailor. Other tailors that do it more obviously sometimes do to show off handwork, or to make i...

SuitsSeptember 6th 2023

Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...

September 1st 2023

Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs. The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli ,...

Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...

Match in comments:
I think he is a gentleman who is more comfortable with other people standing center stage....

Coats - SuitsSeptember 1st 2023

Five good ready-made suits under £1000

August 16th 2023

By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might l...

Five good ready-made suits under £1000

Match in comments:
Very helpful, thank you!...

SuitsAugust 16th 2023

Reader profile: Ian

August 14th 2023

Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...

Reader profile: Ian

Match in comments:
Amazing! I bet Ian must have loved that. Thanks for letting me know...

Shirts - ShoesAugust 14th 2023

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

August 9th 2023

Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

Match in comments:
Hey Josh - finally got confirmation, it's Holland & Sherry 2024002...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 9th 2023

How much do you actually know? An interview with ...

August 4th 2023

By Manish Puri A few months ago I had the privilege of speaking with Alan Flusser about the history of New York bespoke tailoring . From the opening beats of our conversation it was clear that Alan wasn’t about to be constrained by the narrow ...

How much do you actually know? An interview with ...

Match in comments:
In response to Ned Brown. Surely you recall Shep Miller located on Jobs La, Southampton! He also had a shop in Palm Beach. He had a wonderful selection of very colorful mens resort wear. I was a frequent customer....

Shirts - SuitsAugust 4th 2023

The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...

July 31st 2023

By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. Bu...

The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...

Match in comments:
A delightful read.....brought a smile to my face and a nod of my head in every paragraph....

SuitsJuly 31st 2023

Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...

June 19th 2023

In my continued exploration of all things the colour of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy suit from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) last year. The logic seemed sound: if black is going to work in tailoring, I’d consistentl...

Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...

Match in comments:
Nice! Thanks, yes that does look good. Not too far away from muted pinks and purples...

SuitsJune 19th 2023

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

June 7th 2023

  Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

Match in comments:
Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm...

Bags - Belts and walletsJune 7th 2023

Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...

May 15th 2023

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article here and a subsequent piece on Bill Fioravanti here* By Manish Puri It’s 1966 and you’re Truma...

Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...

Match in comments:
I remember reading biographies of the 1950s Dominican playboy, Porfirio Rubirosa, and learning that he had his suits cut by Dunhill in New York. I had originally thought it odd that Alfred Dunhill were offering a bespoke...

SuitsMay 15th 2023

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

May 1st 2023

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasin...

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

Match in comments:
Who would one go to now in NYC should one want the 57th Street Look? Will you be covering Ivy tailors as well in this series? It'll be interesting to know more about the bespoke operations of Brooks Brothers (which stopp...

SuitsMay 1st 2023

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...

April 19th 2023

* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers...

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...

Match in comments:
Wonderful, thank you for commenting Denise...

SuitsApril 19th 2023

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

April 12th 2023

Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

Match in comments:
Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...

Knitwear - SuitsApril 12th 2023