Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
Match in comments:
I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
June 6th 2022By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
Match in comments:
Aleks is correct. Plain grey trousers aren't part of the traditional morning coat outfit. If you wore plain grey trousers with a morning coat to a wedding then people who care about classic menswear would notice this, an...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Match in comments:
I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
April 27th 2022I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that fol...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
Match in comments:
Mostly because I found his work to be more consistently good. A&S does a slight belly on their jackets by default, but yes the blue linen does have a little less of that - it's so long ago I can't remember whether I aske...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
December 31st 2021Just before Christmas, I organised a Permanent Style Christmas dinner, to thank a few people that had helped and supported PS in recent years. We were hosted by Geordie D’Anyers Willis of Berry Bros & Rudd, which was kind of Geordie, ...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
Match in comments:
Great, sounds good David...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
December 29th 2021Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
Match in comments:
That’s great!...
Reader profile: Ben C
December 10th 2021I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
Match in comments:
Tom, I too am a fan of the 90s Brioni style. Those suits Brosnan wore as Bond were great. What didn’t you like about your Tom Ford MTM experience?...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
September 13th 2021*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of e...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
Usually take to the cleaners, unless they say machine wash is fine, often with a more casual trouser like a 5-pocket style...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
September 6th 2021Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We di...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
July 12th 2021*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Match in comments:
Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
June 30th 2021This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
Match in comments:
I cannot believe its acceptable for the mayor of london to wear a suit without a tie, I work on a building site and have to wear hard hat ,boots and a hi vi's,xthats the dress code, if I worked in a office I would Don a ...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
June 21st 2021**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
Match in comments:
The nicest is cream, grey always works, and green can be good too. Even black. I wouldn't wear a linen jacket in winter myself...
The T-shirt under tailoring
May 26th 2021I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
The T-shirt under tailoring
Match in comments:
I think most men look better without an Elizabethan collar, but that's just a personal opinion....
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
April 9th 2021Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
Match in comments:
I am aware everything has become quite quickly expensive over the past few years but their offshore suit now starts from around £3,200 which in my opinion is a massive jump in two years. I wasn’t really sceptical abou...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
March 3rd 2021This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
Match in comments:
Good point Markus. I think a lot about DBs is how you wear them...
Outfits I got wrong
February 19th 2021Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
January 22nd 2021I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
Match in comments:
Chris, I’m not sure if that particular distinction came in with C19 or before, but full bespoke or what would now be called Bespoke 1849....
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
November 18th 2020This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
Match in comments:
Hi Lindsay, he is based out of the Oxo Tower Barge House St, visited him over the summer and he is one of the cheeriest people I have ever met. Also the suit he cut for me is stunning which just adds to the whole experie...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
October 19th 2020Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
Match in comments:
Thanks indeed....
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
September 18th 2020*Note: Joshua and Kimberley are now running their own, separate operations. Kimberly, at 'Lawton', can be found here* Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in W...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
Match in comments:
Thanks David, yes good idea. They tend to go through a lot of changes, as Kimberley has here, now on her own, and it can seem like the best idea is to wait a bit - but perhaps a summary helps avoid that....
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
August 28th 2020With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
Match in comments:
Suits you well, Simon…or conversely so. The jacket is well-styled and fits nicely; and while I agree that trousers could use a bit more fluidity, they work well nonetheless. My usual small point of contention goes to t...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
August 19th 2020Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
Match in comments:
Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...
The guide to jacket pockets
July 27th 2020As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The guide to jacket pockets
Match in comments:
Yes, this is done with lining cloth sometimes, and even (eg with drakes jackets) in the jacket material. It is to hold small items like coins, cards, even a phone if big enough...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
