Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review

Monday, October 14th 2024
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Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda high. I remembered it as soon as I saw these images - it was one I tried with a higher collar in order to wear with my A&S tailoring, which always has a high collar itself. It looks nice with those pieces, but it’s really too much for everything else. 

Don’t let that distract you from this suit from the Korean tailor Luca Museo. It is both excellently cut and rather interesting. 

Interesting because the style is quite extreme but well hidden. It's probably the biggest jacket I've ever had. The shoulders measure seven inches along the seam, which is the same as my A&S (see our Tailor’s Style series) but a chunk of wadding in the sleeve head gives them an extra half inch. We even brought the shoulders in from their standard width, because I thought it looked too big.

Apart from that wadding at the end, the shoulder is only lightly padded, with nothing but canvas at the end nearest the neck. This makes everything lighter, but also means you sometimes get a fold halfway along the shoulder when you move or turn. That's shown a little bit in the image below. 

There's also a lot of drape in the chest, and the armhole isn’t particularly small. The result is that while the top half of the jacket is both flattering and comfortable, it also moves as you move, riding up and off the neck a little.

I mentioned in my introductory article on Luca Museo that they have quite a few clients who are regular gym goers, and so are quite built. I can see this cut working well on them. There would be plenty of room for the pecs and traps and lats without the material being tight, and they’d look even bigger than they actually are. 

None of this should take away from the execution of their particular style, which is excellent. The jacket is clean in the front and good on the back, with only a little drape under the blades (despite the actual volume there). 

The lapels have a nice curve from the chest down to the buttoning point; the ‘barchetta’ breast pocket is subtle. The only issue I could find anywhere was on the waistcoat, which could do with being closer to the back of the neck. 

Pleats are not an easy thing to fit on me, often splaying (and then staying splayed) by my hips and seat. But the backward-facing pleats on these trousers sit very cleanly (as did those from fellow Korean tailors Assisi).

The finishing is also good - as you can see in the close-up images above and below. Having spoken to a few customers of Korean tailoring while in Seoul, this seems to be the area tailors have improved most recently. 

The only thing I don’t like about the finishing is the prominence of the pick stitching. There’s quite a bit of it and it is a little large. Almost like the machine stitching that some brands put on their ready-made suits, in order to make them look hand crafted. 

That AMF machine (named after the original maker, American Machine and Foundry) has been so overused in recent decades that I wonder whether anyone gets the connection any more - that those decorative stitches are meant to replicate the functional handwork of a tailor. 

I explained in my first article on Luca Museo that this suit was something they wanted to make for me, and so some of the choices were theirs.

This includes the waistcoat, which I wouldn’t normally have, and the purple lining. Actually, I just remembered today that my first ever bespoke navy suit had purple lining, from Graham Browne way back in 2010. 

The waistcoat also necessitated high-waisted trousers - there’s nothing worse than trousers that leave a ‘muffin top’ of shirt material between their waistband and the bottom of a waistcoat. My trousers are not, of course, normally high waisted (true high rise, up above the hip bones). But it is nice to have this option in the wardrobe alongside my normal cut. There are a couple of shorter sweaters and such that could with the extra coverage.

I was interested in trying a navy suit, and I will use it for smarter occasions. Maybe not in such a City shirt-and-tie combination, but it is still fun to show those kinds of looks. A printed silk tie (often Hermes, like this) with a blue shirt and a navy suit used to be such a uniform.

The material is a 4-ply worsted using Lumb’s Golden Bale wool. It was a collaboration between agents in Korea and Hong Kong for Lesser's, and only available there. It’s light and fine, but also dry and with some nice texture; 370g. 

So unfortunately it's not available elsewhere, but it does remind me that there are some lovely similar worsteds in the No.305 Lumbs Golden Bale collection, for anyone looking for a high-quality suiting without the sleek or shine of most superfines.

The shirt with the tall collar is from D’Avino, in a superfine grey/blue cotton. Here, the superfine fibre creates a massive amount of wrinkling, as partially visible above. I don’t mind this too much, as I know what comes as a result - that very light, very soft feeling. But it isn't what I'd recommend to most people, particularly given the accompanying high prices. More on superfine cotton shirtings here

That shirt collar is actually only 0.5cm taller than my usual shirts, which are 4.5cm (measured on the back of the collar stand). It’s amazing that half a centimetre makes a difference, though I guess it is 11% bigger, so proportionally more. 

Lower collars, like a lot of my workwear shirts, are often 4cm high. So the same decrease as this is an increase. The new Friday Polos have that, and again the difference is noticeable.  

Luca Museo are producing some really good tailoring, at a fairly affordable price - $3800 for full bespoke, with other options going down to $2000 (see list below). They also have a lot of style, which is clear from their atelier in Seoul, and visit New York.

I’m not sure the cut of the jackets is one I'll want to pursue going forward, but I am having a Neapolitan-style pea coat made that we fitted at the same time, so it will be interesting to see how that turns out. 

For more details on Luca Museo, see our introductory article here

Luca Museo offer three levels of make: Blue, White and Black label.
- Black is the full bespoke, this suit
- White is bespoke cut and fitted, but with some work (eg chest padding) done by machine
- Blue is made to measure, largely machine made and outsourced

Starting prices for each level (for a two-piece suit) are $2,000, $2,500 and $3,800. Trunk shows are currently held in New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Bangkok and Taiwan. All Asian trunk shows are hosted by Coller (prices might vary there slightly).

lucamuseo.com
@lucamuseo

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Mathew

Good review Simon.

Are you happy with the front/back balance on the coat? Looks a little short on the back to me. Also, when you say “backward facing” pleats don’t you mean reverse?
Thanks

Mathew

Thanks. I suppose reverse might make more sense as the opposite pleat is known as forward.

Lax

Hi Simon

Nice suit, you say you wouldn’t style this suit “in such a City shirt-and-tie combination” , how else are you planning to style it? Looking for ideas for my navy W&S suit.

Alex

Do you think a denim shirt would work with such a formal suit? I suppose you could pull it off with the pale blue of the Japanese Denim shirt you offer, but I’m not sure a darker/more rugged version would be as successful.

Noel

What sort of flannel shirt would work with this navy worsted? This styling you mention (ie take a suit and style it in multiple ways) would make for a great article in itself, Simon.

Fernando

Asian tailors and shoemakers always have so much style and taste. Maybe not for everyone but looks so cool

Shoddy

Nice looking suit. You haven’t mentioned what looks like the most obvious styling point to me: the somewhat (not quite Michael Jordan in the Last Dance level) low gorge. Is this a perhaps the sign of a turning of the slow wheel of bespoke trend (surely not fashion).

Shoddy

Or is that an illusion caused by the high shirt collar?

Kent

“… this suit was something they wanted to make for me, and so some of the choices were theirs.” I assume, from that sentence and your other comments, that your suit and peacoat are being supplied free of charge. I therefore have a few related questions.

Which of their choices could you have changed if you had been a paying customer? Could you have lowered the jacket’s ollar, reduced the amount of drape, opted out of the pick stitching, lowered the trouser rise and changed the pleats? Are the extremely wide shoulders part of the house style? Would you spend $3,800 plus of your own money on a bespoke suit from Luca Museo?

Kent

Thanks for the clarification. There is too much drape for my personal taste – see the photograph above the main waistcoat photograph. It also appears that there are dimples or excess cloth at the top of the sleeves, especially in third bottom and bottom photographs. That may be due to “extreme” shoulders and/or the house style.

Such a rigid house style reduces the value of the premium charged for the “black” full bespoke. Is it really worth $1,300 more than the “white” bespoke or $1,800 than blue MTM? This is an issue that is also pertinent to other bespoke tailors, especially those whose house style has a lot of drape and has a relaxed (rather than fitted) silhouette.

Anonymous

Thank you for this article.
Appreciate the reference to AMF. Many Americans have fond associations of the company as the manufacturer (and perhaps inventor) of the automating bowling pin setter machine at the bowling alleys of our youth.
Cheers!

Anonymous

Simon a beautiful suit.I note the rear trouser pockets have buttons the same as the rest of the suit (like most ready to wear suits.) Do most Savile Row tailors do the same now or still use those smaller grey mother of pearl buttons as their default choice for rear trouser pocket buttons? Which option do you prefer and feel is more tasteful?

Mr Spears

This is interesting, Simon. I’ve noticed bespoke shirtmakers often use a slightly smaller top button to make it easier to fasten when wearing a tie. Do smaller rear trouser pocket buttons have a practical benefit or is it purely aesthetic?

Mathew

The custom originates from the fact that they are cheaper than horn, and being far less visible means they don’t need to look as good. The same type of button would be used to fasten an inside flapped pocket too.

Robin

Seems like it’s been soooo long since we had a suit review .

My first impressions were “Whoah ! He’s look grown up in that suit !”
I think that’s because it does look more relaxed with much less obvious nipping in of the waist.

Personally I’m moving more towards a ‘less restrictive’ silhouette.
Comfort over looks.

Alexander

My impression was the opposite lately. More suit reviwes than a couple of years ago when it was all about sport coats. This is not exclusive to PS and surely has something to do with the changed purpose of a suit. I notice myself that I like to wear suits more than two years ago. It is a welcome change from my standard grey trouser/sport jacket look. And it is an immediate gear change compared to a sport jacket.

Peter Paul Gaultieri

Harry Hill called, and he thoroughly approves the collar height.;

Bob

Trying to access the Shop but after clicking I get a new tab, white background and message “Wacht terwijl de aanvraag wordt gecontroleerd…” and then the tab goes back to the home page

Anonymously

Same here

Jamie A

I’ve had the same issue today. On a McBook and it is happening on Safari and Chrome.

Kaleb

I’m having the same issue as well on both my MacBook and iPhone. I’ve tried in Chrome and Firefox with the result.

Ben R

happening to me as well… noticed it yesterday and today it is still happening.

James

I was interested by your observation that their house style might suit guys who are a bit more built in the upper body from hitting the gym. Not that that’s my problem, but I was curious about your more general observations regarding the match between various house styles and body type. Do you think what you said here is more generally true of styles that veer towards a drape cut? Similarly, do you think the dominant Neapolitan (or simply softer) style is more suited to slimmer guys?

James

Given how many different styles you’ve seen over the years, I would love to see that as a full post… thanks!

Burt

Thanks for the review.The shirt collar is not that bad, actually. Your neck can have it. Also, it’s still a long way to Karl Lagerfeld. On the other hand, the whole ensemble makes you look more formal, while the rather shapeless jacket makes you seem older. If you were to look at a pocket watch with that wooden background these photos could almost be stills straight out of a western 🙂

RTK

The prices appear to be very reasonable especially for their mid level offering even though the cost of labor in Korea is not cheap anymore. How does this suit compare to your made in India W&S suits as to quality, price and value ?

Markus S

Recently I met a high school friend for lunch in a good restaurant in the Centre of Vienna. She noticed that the last time we met, at the same restaurant approximately 10 years ago, the place was full with men in black/charcoal/grey suits and white shirts with ties and we talked about that back then (she is a doctor, so no formal clothing for her). Now, nearly nobody wore a suit even though the surroundings did not change (law firms, business consultancy’s and private banks).

Apart from very few occasions, like court hearings and in the highest echelons of management, the business suit is on life support imho. Separate jackets are not much behind. Nearly everybody appears to wear cashmere knitwear with flannel, corduroy or cotton trousers or smart chinos, many also dark jeans.

Stephan

Dear Markus, interesting observation from a fellow Viennese (although I myself am not local but here for work). I now regret not living in Vienna ten years ago, as today I actually find the city centre to be quite stylish and I have observed quite a few people very neatly dressed, and very English-inspired. The tailoring has gotten more relaxed and you are right that there are not too many dark suits, but there are interesting cuts, to my non-professional eyes lots of bespoke, very nice shoes (particularly the Viennese split toes!), nice pairings with e.g., Barbours (so many Barbours!) and nice dressy coats, including a few Chesterfields on older gentlemen. But I do think people still put an effort and there’s more tailored outfits than in some other European capitals where I’ve been before. And I am talking here about the very centre, sort of from the Hofburg to the Stadtpark in the restaurants of the fancier areas and small squares such as the Judenplatz and the Franziskanerplatz. And I did see a guy at the Naschmarkt in a full linen suit in moss green, replete with a navy knit tie and a red pocket square, and this was in July!

Markus S

Hello Stephan,

Yes, I think you are right. Compared to other cities, many Viennese dress quite classically, especially men. There is a tradition of shoemaking, also from Budapest, and still many tailors, perhaps more than in the rest of the German speaking world together. 

My comment was not meant negatively either. I just noticed that business suits seem to be on the way out. Not so long ago, the 1st district was a sea of anthracite-coloured and grey business suits, which have now largely disappeared.

This trend – which is probably global or at least present in the West – is also reflected in Permanent Style. Articles about suits have become rare, at least when it comes to business suits, and Simon focuses more on casual chic. I like this and think it’s great, but others – perhaps especially older generations – probably don’t.

Kind regards,

Markus 

Stephan

Hello, Markus!
Thank you for the additional points. I see what you mean and can recognise it too in the city, so I agree totally.
Kind regards,
Stephan

Hugh

What are your thoughts on the single sided breast pocket on the waistcoat? I am of two minds – it could be a practical sleeveless if it had lapels, but without it feels like they forgot the other one (spoken as someone who wears and likes waistcoats because it’s too hot in DC for a full jacket a lot of the year)

Tom in New Hampshire USA

Beautiful suit. It’s meant as a compliment (but not sure you’ll take it that way), but my first reaction upon seeing the picture was, “oh, look, Simon is wearing an American suit!” Upon closer inspection and, of course, reading the article, I can see that it is not. But the very bigness you mentioned, and the ease with which it sits on you led me to that impression.

David

Don’t write them off just yet, you look great in that suit.

Ale

I’m not a big fan of the jacket, it seems a tad too roomy for worsted (not as elegant, maybe it would excel in a more casual fabric?), and does give the impression of accommodating a very muscular upper body. But I must admit the pants fit flawlessly!

Wils

Maybe just me, but I’m not a fan of the move towards the “roomier” look in tailoring. I think if you’re not careful it looks sloppy and (especially if you’re not overweight) can age the wearer. When i look at this suit it looks well made but just too loose in the front for my eyes. Ditto the trouser leg opening…go too wide and the trousers start to “eat the shoes” especially if they are loafers etc. I much preferred the likes of the WS suits you had made in the past for their trim/sharper silhouette. But each to their own.

J Crewless

The larger cut looks good. We’ve finally moved away from suits that look like they were stolen from their little brother. Nicely done.

OP

I read PS regularly and it has been a while since something clicked the way it did now. This piece is illustrative of the difference between the way a garment looks in photos and while moving around, a point you often make. In some photos the jacket looks almost too big on you, as if it’s the wrong size. In others (particularly the first and the last) it’s among the most flattering I’ve seen.
I have this fantasy suit, you see, that’s perfect in every way. When I think about it, I always gravitate towards the Michael Brownes and Cifonellis of the world (the first post of the latter’s three piece suit is haunting me to this day. I want that waistcoat!). So, apparently, I have a clear sleek preference for closer cuts, based on still photos of models – often tall and slim figure. But, I am a gym goer, tall and large, and your point about room for more muscular physiques is an important one for me. Not for comfort reasons alone, but for aesthetic ones.
Every point I’m making here you’ve made countless times, so I’m not providing anything new. This is just me thinking out loud. This post did sharpen for me the nature of trade offs when picking a style, in a way that eluded me so far. So thank you.

petronio

I have many three pieces but very rarely I wear the waistcoat (even if I have noted that the 3 piece suit is very much appreciated by women). I prefer a deeper neckline in the waistcoat (to avoid the groom suit effect) leaving the button on the top unbuttoned

James Fettiplace

Thanks Simon. Not sure why, but it feels slightly strange seeing you in ‘business attire’. And it some respects, it comes across a bit vanilla – yet it is possibly the most relevant type of commission that you’ve done for years for many of your readers.
One quick question and it relates the mohair review you kindly did last week. If you were to commission a navy business suit (perhaps imagine when you worked in an office environment more regularly), would you still pick this fabric or similar. Or would you aim for something a bit more interesting, in composition, texture or colour (such as adding a pinstripe). I completely get that a navy worsted is the most versatile but something inside me would personally want something a bit different if I was commissioning.

Ian

It was nice to see a blue item reviewed as black, grey and brown don’t suit everyone. It would be interesting to see how the blue suit could be worn as well as the City look.

Stephan

This is a wonderful suit, Simon! It actually reminds me quite a bit of a suit of mine from Cesare Attolini, which has a similar low gorge and straight lapels (hand-padded!), and a similar matte finish and texture to the fabric, but it is actually not wool but worsted cashmere. I would be curious to know why you wouldn’t pursue the style in the future. I assume you see it as a bit showy with the broad shoulder and the other bold styling details of the low gorge, the straight, almost inward curving lapel, and the overall chiseled while at the same time soft look to the suit, coupled with the very high waist in the trousers. If that is the case, I can understand it, but I do find it is much easier to get away with such bold styling when coupled with a conservative fabric such as dark and muted navy. My Attolini is the same in this regard (photo attached) and I have another one, identical model, but in charcoal, or Oxford gray (nearly black). I find them so conservative that I am sure most people don’t notice the verve to their design, but it gives me immense pleasure to wear them and notice those style details. And similarly to yours, they are supremely comfortable and roomy, but appeared very fitted.

Screenshot-2024-10-15-155932
PM

I enjoyed seeing a post with the old city classic of a Hermes printed tie. Given they have moved from 9cm width to the (in my view) unwearable 8cm, can you recommend somewhere else for quality silk printed ties?

A travesty but it seems Hermes are several years behind in following the horrible skinny tie look

Mathew

Marinella’s current offerings are 7cm. I think 8cm has been pretty much the standard for quite some time now. Ferragamo also run at 8cm.

FS

It’s an objectively beautiful suit, but that low gorge is not for me. It just veers a bit too far into fashion territory.

J.Luna

Like others, I am interested in how different this is from the cut of many of the other suits you’ve worn, Simon. The roomier fit and lower gorge remind me a little of some designs of the mid-late 1980’s, which were themselves recalling some postwar suiting (the full but sloping shoulders of your three-piece combined with the lower gorge certainly remind me of Armani during that period.) One thing that I found myself wondering, however, was whether a different collar might have been more well-suited to the slope of the shoulders/cut of the lapels. For myself, I tend to associate the angle of a higher-gorge cut as being well-suited to a spread collar and see a point collar working a little more harmoniously with the lower gorge… Of course I may just have been conditioned by the fad of not so long ago for very slim, very high-gorge suits being paired with spread or even cut-away collars. Anyway, not a critique as such, but I am curious to hear your thoughts on this.

Peter

Hi Simon,

Great review, as always.

May I ask where this tie is from? It looks gorgeous!

Leo

Hi Simon
That’s a sharp-looking suit. Personally, I like the cut and shape of the shoulders. Seems to be cut in very good overall proportion to your body.
The lapels could have a little more style but, otherwise, looks great.

Navy sweater

Thought that was a hermes tie. Good to see that your getting playful with shirts and ties again Simon. I think you could really breath some new life into this blog if you keep that playful yet smart approach to dressing with shirts and ties going.

Ad

Finishing-wise, where does it stand compared with the other tailors you’ve used (outside of the likes of Cifonelli and Michael Browne)?

Michael

Simon, to be honest, the sleeves wrinkle too much in the photo; in other words, they don’t look clean. I assume the sleeve pitch is off… what are your thoughts?

Duke

Among all contemporary tailors, which of them makes shoulders that resemble those Scholte made for the Duke?