Introducing: The New Friday Polo

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The Friday Polo was one of the first proper products we ever developed on Permanent Style and has gone through several iterations - spread collar, button-down, lightweight and heavy, short sleeve and long. 

But in the eight years since it launched, my style has also broadened and changed. I’m at the point where I’d like our hand-made, luxury polo shirt to be able to do more than just fill a particular tailoring niche. I’d like it to be more adaptable - to still be great with a jacket but also easy with jeans, chinos and shorts. 

For this latest iteration of the Friday Polo, that’s been my aim, and I think the result works very well; it's certainly the most versatile one we've done.

The New Friday Polo is made from a mid-weight piqué cotton, with a straight hem and a spread rather than cutaway collar. It’s a tiny bit more relaxed, with a tiny bit wider sleeve, and has a tiny bit lower collar stand. All small changes, but significant in the whole. 

The result, which you can see on the shop site, does such a good job of versatility that I love it both with a suit (below) and beach-ready with shorts (above). Few pieces of menswear are this adaptable. 

I’ve also shown the navy (it’s coming in navy and white, to start with) elsewhere in this piece with jeans and with tailored trousers. So it covers whichever office dress code you have to abide by, and indeed whichever occasion or requirement there is within that. 

It’s still a luxury piqué cotton (as always seems to be the case, more expensive than the last one) and still has the collar stand that separates it from the vast majority (more like a dress shirt, better with tailoring). 

It still has the functional handwork that comes from being made in Naples, by a shirtmaker (Luca Avitabile): bigger sleeve eased into smaller armhole, collar attached in the round. 

But it’s lighter, easier and more functional. 


The material is an 150g cotton piqué, woven in Italy by Maggia, which feels soft and luxurious. It still has a nice drape, but that softness is the biggest difference compared to a cheaper, high-street polo. 

This weight is a tiny bit more than those mainstream offerings, but a reduction from the 180g of the old Polo. So easier to wear in the heat, but definitely still wearable through the rest of the year too. 

This was an important feature to retain, because the old model was specifically made to be wearable outside of summer, and provide a subtle alternative to a dress shirt. (On a Friday, hence the name: remember dress-down Fridays? How times have changed.)

Hem and collar 

The new Friday Polo has a straight hem - the bottom is cut straight across, like a normal polo, rather than longer at the back and front, like a shirt. 

I wasn’t sure whether this would work, as it was essential that it remain tucked in when worn with a jacket (that was why it was cut more like a shirt originally). But the friction and natural stretch of the piqué make it work. The result is something I’m equally happy to wear tucked or untucked, again as illustrated. 

Next, the collar. The original Friday Polo had a cutaway collar, which looks a little bit of-its-time now. The last one had a button-down. I wanted something easier and more regular than both, and went for a fairly average spread. 

It still sits up proud out of a jacket, because it has that collar stand and hand-attached construction. It still rolls around the lapel of a jacket, much like a button-down. But otherwise it’s the kind of style that’s simple and easy. 

I also lowered the height of the collar very slightly (4cm to 3.5cm) with the aim of hitting this same average between smart and casual. I like a higher collar on my bespoke shirts, but I know I’m not average in that regard.


The fit of the Friday Polo has been relaxed, very slightly (by 2cm in the body). 

There are two reasons for this: one, it’s in line with the less-slim, less-fitted shapes we’ve brought to other pieces like the Finest Polo and Dartmoor. And two, it makes the Polo look a lot less like a dress shirt when you wear it very casually. A shirt with a sculpted waist and flared skirt rather gives the game away.

The sleeve is also a tiny bit wider in the bicep, simply because I found it tight (and I’m hardly muscly). A tight sleeve on a short-sleeved polo has its place, but less so on a long-sleeved one.

Finally, a little design change was to lengthen the placket on the front, because I think it creates a more flattering shape - more like the lines created by jacket lapels, less like the little V of a normal V-neck sweater.

Here’s a summary of the New Friday Polo, its features and details.

  • A luxury long-sleeved polo shirt, handmade in Naples
  • Soft piqué cotton by Maggia, weighing 150g
  • Hand-attached collar, yoke and sleeve, giving 3D shape and enhanced fit
  • Hand-sewn buttons and buttonholes, just cause they’re nice
  • Cut straight at the bottom, to be worn tucked or untucked
  • Shirt-like cuff and placket, enabling it to be rolled back
  • Long front placket

Available in white and navy, ships from London, price £195 plus VAT.


  • Regular to slim fit, compare measurements below to a shirt of your own to get the best idea of which size is right for you


Chest Waist Yoke Sleeve Bicep Length Neck
Small 51cm 46 41 60 16 70 38
Medium 55 50 43 61 18 71 39
Large 60 55 45 63 19 73 41
X-Large 62 58 46.5 64 20 74 43

Clothes shown:

  • With white Friday Polo:
    • Taupe cotton suit, bespoke by Elia Caliendo in Holland & Sherry 9oz pure cotton
    • Brown suede loafers, unlined Piccadilly by Edward Green
    • Navy needlecord shorts, Trunk Clothiers
    • Snuff-suede loafers, LHS by Alden
    • Clan sunglasses via Connolly
  • With navy Friday Polo:
    • Grey high-twist wool trousers, bespoke by Cornacchia in two-ply Drapers ‘Ascot’
    • Black suede loafers, Sagan Grand from Baudoin & Lange
    • Light-wash blue jeans, vintage seventies Levi’s via Le Vif

For watches see ‘My Watches’ post. 

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Can it be altered, e.g., sleeves shortened? I’m not sure if there are any subtleties about pique cotton cloth and sleeve construction that make a difference here.

Peter Smith Wright

A good tailor would remove the placket and cuff, shorten the sleeve and then reattach everything properly.


Morning Simon, looks great. Can I ask what size you are wearing? Thank you.

Matthew V

Nice! I wear my lightweight polo and a similar one from Informale a lot, and the small changes you are making – lower collar, straight hem, and very slightly less slim, sound perfect, as I often want to wear them untucked. Slightly less formal, but still feeling more elegant / smarter than a regular polo. Perfect for going out for a nice meal in the summer.

I shall be ordering!

Matthew V

Actually I meant to ask, as I only have the lightweight version (so far), how does the fabric compare weight wise? Is it similar to say a regular R L Polo, or finer than that, albeit not as light / fine as the lightweight PS polo?


Matthew V

Thanks Simon


Hi Simon, should i allow for any shrinkage?


Bummer, I was hoping the neck size would be 40 for M.
On a related note, neck measurements don’t show on the product page.


Looks great, order placed!
I do miss the lightweight polo though…


Hi Simon, this is very nice and versatile, it would be a great addition to my wardrobe

Would this work better under a sweater, in terms of thickness and collar stand than the previous version?

Also, for the navy version, which colours of outerwear other than navy and grey would work well?

Many thanks,


Great, thanks, Simon.

I have just one more question, in terms of size, the measurements on the yoke, neck and sleeves of my bespoke shirt were exactly the same as those of the polo in size large, while the chest and waist measurements were the same as size small. In this case, which size would you suggest that I go for?
I would need to reduce around 9cm on the chest if I get a Large, and am not quite sure if that would be fine, whereas if I go for a small the shoulder and neck would look squeezed.


I ordered size medium and have received it just now but the sleeve lengths seem pretty tricky, I think they look very slightly shorter than they should be. What do you think about it from the photo below?


Looks like a great iteration! I especially like the new collar as I have grown a bit tired of cutaway collars, and as someone with a rather wide chest and upper arm, the added width is very welcome.


Gorgeous! Want to buy a cream one right now, but want to try save on shipping and have it sent together with the new raincoat.

Is that still on schedule for a September release?

Chris West

I’m doing the exact same thing!
Simon may i ask how it compares in size to the Trunk soft collar polo that you wear as the medium in that fits me very well.


Love the taupe suit! Any suggestions for a ‘similar’ RTW or M2M version of that?


Is the sleeve shorter than the previous version? Looks like the sleeve is shorter than the Dartmoor (even with the cuffs folded back)?


Unfortunate. My only issue with the original Friday Polo was that the sleeves were a little too short on me and I could only wear it with the sleeves rolled up. Sounds as though these won’t fit me either,

Ian Skelly

Very nice ! I would be purchasing but I have just bought similar from Luca Faloni ( I saw a tv program with the chef Jason Atherton wearing what looked like one of your Friday polo’s recently btw) any news on the navy crewneck knitwear coming back in stock?


Forgive me if you’ve mentioned this elsewhere, but if Finest Crewneck returning only in charcoal? Or both charcoal and the original navy? Thanks. Polos look terrific, by the way, these little tweaks here and there amount to a big improvement over the prior versions.


It looks lovely… if only the XL were a couple of inches bigger in the chest measurement. Or an XXL available. Sigh.


How does the Maggia piqué fabric compare to the prior Caccioppoli besides being lighter? Is it of a similar quality?


Looks great Simon. Early days I know but any thoughts on/plans for future colours for those of us already over-stocked in white and navy long sleve polos? (Good problems…)




I think a light brown caramel type of colour would be nice alternative to the colours from previous iterations


I find the dark colours versatile: maybe a chocolate brown or very dark green?

Peter K

It looks like you shot the photos with shorts on an autumn day. Did you get cold?


Is there a way to purchase any of the old button-down versions? Was about to buy one last week! Being on the slim side, I find that the old measurements already provided a somewhat relaxed look for me, and I fear the new one will swing too far in the other direction on my frame (this happened with the new Dartmoor, which is far too big in the torso for me in size S compared with my old one in the same size).


Thanks, I’ll be sure to reach out. (New shirt looks great, btw. Not trying to be critical!)


The fit adjustments sound delightfully relaxed, so kudos there Simon! On a different tangent from FS, any chance the button-down collar would make a return in the future?


Ah well. In any case, I’m calling it: this iteration will also be wildly popular!


Good afternoon…the Friday polo looks very nice…it will be a big hit..good luck..everyone enjoy your weekend..peace


Lovely post. PS, love the vintage GMT you have on, the patina you get from the aluminum bezels are great to look at.


Hi Simon,

Do you have measurements for the bottom hem width of the polo? Thanks!


Hi Simon, are the collars sized differently for each size as well? Just curious, thanks!


Looks nice. Is it available at Luca Avitabile webshop also? I live in Italy and it may be easier for me to order from there.

Thank you


Much to admire but sadly – from the photo -the collar looks to be too cut away for my taste.


I have three of your button down Friday polos, size L and the fit is perfect. These are obviously more generous in fit and I’m thinking M. The fit on you looks relaxed and I’ve lost a bit of weight recently but I just admit to being slightly concerned about the sleeve length and I notice all the pictures of you are with the sleeves rolled up slightly. Is this an issue? I’m the same height as you but comparing to other polo shirts out there, Anglo Italian, Luca Faloni etc…your sleeve length is somewhat shorter. I’m a 41in chest, 33in waist and I’m sure the L will be too big…


Not very important, but I was wondering, are you sure the shorts aren’t Drake’s fatigues?

J Crewless

Very versatile design. Make sure the intellectual property rights are covered on it.


Sadly too slim for me trough the shoulders and upper arm to wear on it’s own. But very nice execution on this product update.


Is there by any chance a place in London where one can try on the polo? Forgive me if this already has been asked & answered 🙂

Dan M

Any recommendations or tips for having knitwear like this (or the Finest Polo) custom made?
I believe Luca Avitabile will, and I’ve seen Knot Standard now offers some knitwear via a maker called Sojrn. But haven’t come across others yet.

Tim J

Hi Simon,
I received my Navy Blue Friday Polo earlier in the week and am just writing to let you know how pleased I am with this incarnation. All of the tweaks you’ve made work really well for me, I only wish you had more options in terms of colour (grey/charcoal/dark green).
I was just about to jump on an order a Navy & Black Tapered T only to find they’ve since sold out. If only I’d ordered them at the same time as the Friday Polo. Oh well, next time.
Lovely product Simon so well done to you and the team.

Tim J

Cheers Simon. I’ll most certainly keep an eye out for the t-shirts.

Guy W

Just received the navy and white polos and I want to echo how much all the little changes have made a big difference in terms of making this polo shirt extremely versatile – you’ve knocked it out of the park!

I have a few polos rom The Armoury and The Anthology, but these are the first Friday Polos I have purchased. In case it’s useful to any readers, below is a quick comparison:

The Armoury: the longer placket on the Friday Polo creates a more flattering shape (a gentle and consistent curve out, whereas the Armoury Polo curves out abruptly, making the spread collar appear more like a cutaway collar). The material on the Friday Polo is a little thicker, softer and more luxurious (the material on The Armoury polo is crunchier/stiffer, and therefore wears cooler on really hot days. In saying that, I’d happily wear the Friday Polo in high summer).

The Anthology: the fit, the collar, the longer placket, length and square hem are very similar to this iteration of the Friday polo – very versatile. The main difference is that it is thicker material than the Friday Polo, and I prefer the shape and colour of the buttons on the Friday Polo.

Oliver M

Just received the navy Friday Polo – excellent cut and design, it’ll be difficult to wear “ordinary” polo shirts after this… Looking forward to (and hoping for) new colours in the near future.


Simon, I am very tempted to buy the navy one. One question, how do you store them. Do you put them on a hanger, like a shirt, or fold them and put into a drawer, like knitwear.


Hey Simon, that Caliendo suit combined with the Friday Polo shirt was just a delight to behold. Rare bookseller vibes just my scene. Have you ever reviewed the suit before? Searched under ‘Caliendo’ but found nothing. Its simplicity and being unusual sold it for me. The sort of fabric and style that reflects my personality. Just like that Solaro suit too. (Now need to find the cash!)


Thanks Simon.


Hey dude, a photo of you appears in this youtube video from today by Ashley Weston “celebrity menswear stylist,” at 8:38 minutes. She is using you as an example of what not to wear! The rule you are apparently breaking is “polos don’t work when worn underneath sweaters or coats.” What do you think?


1) Does this polo risk looking more sporty when untucked because the hem is not knitted and the drape would be more similar to what is offered by most stores?
2) Is this a risk more associated with half sleeve polos?


Would wearing it untucked with tailored casual trousers look good?


Just found this shirt like collar on a long sleeve polo and quite like it. Thinking of buying it to wear on its own and wanted to know that do you like this collar on a polo?

I have seldom seen such stiff collars on polo and that is why this question. Thanks for your suggestion


I have recently started wearing my long sleeve polos with a partial tuck but only while dressing very casually. What is your opinion on half or partial tuck with casual long and short sleeve polo for a casual look with workwear chinos?