Better than Simon’s? My Luca Museo tweed suit
By Manish Puri.
Although it arrived a little late in the season, that hasn’t stopped me from wearing my new Luca Museo Donegal Tweed suit every chance I’ve gotten. It’s quickly established itself as a favourite and attracts compliments wherever it goes – just a few weeks back an attractive woman rolled down the window of her car and shouted “nice suit” at me. (For context, she had just nearly run me over, so it’s possible she may have been overcompensating for almost killing me.)
The fullness of the arm, the drape through the chest and the wider trouser all work in concert to make this a remarkably comfortable suit. But more than that, I just find it a very pretty, almost voluptuous, thing to look at.
The extended shoulder accentuates the curve from the sleevehead through the waist, which is then echoed by the roll of the lapel (supported by a multi-layered and darted canvas) into the rounded quarters; the latter, even when fresh out of the delivery box, is like a sailor on shore leave – proud and vigorous – and, if anything, might need some shape ironed out of it! You know, just to chill it out a little.
But I’m not here to review the suit – if anyone is looking for a breakdown of the Museo house style, Simon’s article serves perfectly. What I am interested in is why, in my humble opinion, I think this cut works better for me than it does for Simon.
Why am I pressing on with a second summer commission while Simon is hesitant (“I’m not sure the cut of the jackets is one I'll want to pursue going forward”)? Why do I think Simon’s suit is very good but mine is great?
I hope an examination of those questions will offer readers some more general pointers on cloth, style and dressing for their body.
I think the first point to make is somewhat ethereal, but important nonetheless: how accustomed is the eye (yours and those around you) to seeing a particular silhouette, colour or pattern. So often, murmurs of disapproval are less about the thing itself and more about our own hesitancy in the face of something unfamiliar.
In this case, both long-time readers and I are well-versed in seeing me in fuller, higher-waisted trousers and roomier jackets – like my beautiful cream linen suit from Taillour. Whereas Simon is more contemporary and typically wears things just a little closer. (As always with bespoke, the differences we’re talking about here are measured in centimetres, even millimetres.)
On recent shopping trips together it’s been fascinating getting Simon’s input when I’m caught between RTW sizes. He generally favours a medium on me for a cleaner back and more shape, whereas I tend to plump for the large to give me extra comfort.
Visually of course, he’s on the money, but I’m the one that has to live in my clothes, and I know from experience that I’m just a heavy night out or a fried breakfast away from irrationally banishing any garment that feels even remotely restrictive to the cold outer reaches of my wardrobe.
And so my Luca Museo suit (whether you think it favours me or not) is perhaps more quickly recognised and accepted within the parameters of my usual style. Whereas Simon’s commission strikes you immediately as something different, thus demanding a little more evaluation.
Of course, beyond highly subjective and completely individual factors like comfort, there are other, more objective reasons why Simon leans towards his style and why I mine: chief among them is physique.
Even though we both have the same chest measurement (40”), Simon’s shoulders are longer and more sloped than mine. To accommodate this, his Luca Museo shoulder seam measures a full 7” with an extra half inch of wadding in the sleeve head (making it one of the widest jackets he owns), whereas mine is 6.5” plus the half inch.
In my view the extra length emphasises and possibly even exaggerates the slope of Simon’s shoulders.
Now I should add, lest anyone accuse me of body-shaming poor Simon, that one of the attractions of an extended shoulder is it gives a broader foundation from which to draw in the waist – and this is an area where Simon requires much less help than me.
I’m pretty straight through the trunk – measure my circumference anywhere on the torso and you’ll likely get the same number – but Simon doesn’t have that issue; he is an actual drop-six whereas I’m an aspirational drop-six-kilos.
And so I find the Luca Museo extended shoulder better suits both my actual shoulders, and the prerequisite for my tailoring to create an illusion of shape through the waist.
My final observation was prompted by an astute comment from reader Ale on Simon’s initial review: Would this suit excel in a fabric that is more casual than the formal navy worsted?
I think there’s some wisdom in this, and a lot of that is underpinned by associations. Common adjectives that get attached to ‘navy worsted suit’ are crisp, sharp, slick, corporate – words I wouldn't ordinarily ascribe to the Luca Museo house cut, which (with its wider set shoulder and lower gorge) partly evokes late 80s-era Armani tailoring.
That historical inspiration is perhaps the final reason why I think this suit works so well. The cloth, a vintage Donegal Tweed sourced by Luca Museo, with its cold colours and speckled marly texture, feels like something that may have appeared on an Armani runway. (Holland & Sherry 8821402 is similar)
And so, completely unwittingly on my part, the commission instinctively feels more cohesive – the visual language and heritage of the cut harmonising with that of the cloth.
Of course, all this theorising and rationalising is predicated upon the opinion that the Luca Museo suit works a little better for me than it does for Simon.
But you might reject this assertion. You might prefer Simon’s look. You might not particularly fancy either.
And that’s just fine, because, ultimately, formulating your perspective and understanding what feels true to you is how one develops personal style, and how you learn to identify the fine lines between a good suit and a great one.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram
Luca Museo currently hold trunks shows in New York
Other clothes worn:
- An MTO Bryceland's OCBD which has neither the Oxford cloth nor the button down (it's a poplin that follows the same block and collar shape)
- Drake's black knit tie (one of the most versatile I own)
- Red Rabbit Lil' Thunderbird pin and ring
- London Sock Co socks in Highland Heather
- Alden tassel loafers in black calf
As usual a very enjoyable read Manish!
And also a very interesting one, because I am also in the “Aspirational drop six kilos” category, and I have slowly but surely moved towards this kind of roomier silhouette. I still have some close suits, but their usage becomes more limited… Not for big dinners, not for dancing (or maybe yes if it is worn as a three piece with the jacket open), so they end up being mostly pieces for the office and maybe some drinks out.
And I agree that this cut looks better on you than Simon. I don’t think changing Simon’s fabric would make a lot of difference in this case.
Hi Manish, thanks for a very personal article, there is a lot of wisdom in this!
First of all, I think Simon’s suit predominantly looks a bit “unbalanced” because the trousers are relatively narrow and not that high in the rise. This could of course be changed, even if it’s then still not Simon’s preferred look/silhouette.
But the point that I found most interesting is about the extended shoulders. I am 180cm slim athletic with fairly broad but sloping shoulders, a 39’’ chest, and a drop 8. This means that, like Simon, a rather close Neopolitan cut with natural shoulders and a good amount of waist suppression in principle suits me well. Yet while I still like that look on myself, what I now gravitate towards are slightly extended shoulders and less waist suppression. It gives me the same proportions but makes everything look a bit “broader” and less elongated. This was a big revelation for myself (“ah, precisely *because* I am slim I should not emphasise my waist that much!”) and recalls Simon’s own journey (and mine has of course also been significantly influenced by his). It just seems that the Museo cut is maybe “too much” for someone with our build (whereas Ciardi seems great and probably also The Anthology, which I use myself).
Yet there is a major caveat to this whole Simon’s body type => Ciardi/Anthology is the limit, Manish’s body type => Museo looks great logic (as you also not in your introduction when stating your personal preferences that readers have become accustomed to by now). While I agree that your body shape should influence your tailoring choices, I don’t think it necessarily restricts them in any straightforward way, which brings us back to the trousers…
It’s notable in Simon’s style journey that while his jacket fit has clearly become much roomier, his trouser style hasn’t changed that much over the years (though an article on that would be much appreciated, maybe even comparing your respective styles). Generally I find that there is quite a bit of wiggle room wit trousers… a pretty big jacket with relatively slim and mid-rise trousers can look good (e.g. Simon’s tobacco linen suit from Ciardi). But once you go as big as the Museo jacket, you really need a different type of trouser. As I said at the start, I think the Museo look could then even work for someone with Simon’s build once we change the trouser style completely, but with the result that the tailoring silhouette then has little relation with the body underneath it (which is not necessarily a bad thing, just something that can look a bit “unnatural” to the person who is used to seeing the body in the mirror all the time).
I therefore want to thank you again for tackling the tricky question of how one’s body shapes your tailoring style in such a personal and nuanced way. These debates often turn into a dogmatic “your body does not matter if you wear tailoring” vs. ” your body determines everything”. Lots of food for thought and ultimately there are only very personal answers…
Wow Liam! I might just replace my article with your comment 😂
Some great observations and, as you say, lots of food for thought! I’ll certainly chew on your points about trousers for a while.
Thank you for such a thoughtful response 😊
Cheers Manish!
More discussion of how to play with proportions on Permanent Style is certainly appreciated, and I think those discussions are best when different people contribute their perspectives.
It gets even more personal once we switch to casual clothing… it would also be interesting to read more on this from you! I think one of the most liberating things about the bespoke experience that transfers really well to casual style is the realisation that sizes and house cuts are ultimately just someone else’s view of what looks good on a certain body type… and you might not agree with that view or have that body type. It just takes a lot of experience to know what to adjust and how, and there are so many more variables in casual clothing…
Often the thing separating a casual outfit that does not work at all from something that looks great is just a different pair of trousers (slimmer or wider, higher or lower in the rise etc.). But it takes a lot of experience to learn what pieces in your closet work well together if you don’t want to restrict yourself to a single silhouette (and judging by your Instagram account, you certainly have figured a lot of that stuff out). Obviously the general trend now is still “always go wider”. But people like Nico Lazaro are very good at mixing up silhouettes in a way that always feels like their own personal style (maybe a guest post is in order…???).
I think a brand like LEJ is also really great for exploring this, as they are so open about the fact that most people can probably wear two or even three different sizes in their products depending on what kind of look they want to achieve… (I remember Luke saying in an interview that he wears the CUTTS in three different sizes, and I myself still own and wear Plage coats in different sizes for that reason and could certainly wear a CUTTS in both Small and Medium, although I tend to prefer Medium here.) This is also why I loved your quick discussion of how Simon and you often disagree about the right size for you in casual clothing… It gives a glimpse into how you guys think about these subtle issues of fit and proportion.
Thank you so much Liam.
I really like your observations on casual as well and will definitely think about some future articles in this arena.
On Nico, he has written a couple of terrific columns for the PS magazine, but we haven’t had anything from him on his style so we can think about that for sure.
Have a lovely evening!
Thanks Manish, sounds good!
Regarding Nico Lazaro, I would particularly like to see a piece on the silhouettes that he thinks flatter him and how he varies the silhouettes that he wears on a daily basis depending on mood etc. People sometimes discuss the effects of different silhouettes for tailoring (structured looks for big meetings, soft looks for appearing approachable etc.). But subtle silhouette choices are an interesting area to explore when it comes to casual clothing…
As for yourself, I think you are exceptional in making a simple trouser and shirt combination look good in spring/summer. This is of course partly due to your looks, but it would be interesting to get some insight into what informs your pairing choices. It’s rarely just an Oxford shirt and a pair of chinos…
Keep up the good work!
I appreciate it Liam and will think about this for future articles 😊 have a lovely weekend!
Thank you for such a thoughtful reply—you’ve really gotten to the heart of the matter.
Your point about the trousers is spot on. A Museo-level jacket genuinely does need a completely different trouser to work, and your insight that doing so creates a silhouette with “little relation with the body underneath” is perfectly put. That psychological disconnect is exactly what makes or breaks comfort for the wearer.
And I couldn’t agree more with your shoulders/waist revelation: “precisely because I am slim I should not emphasise my waist that much.” This counter-intuitive truth takes years to land, and you’ve articulated it beautifully. The Anthology sweet spot you’ve found sounds ideal.
Most importantly, your final point is the one I’d underline twice: the body is a compass, not a cage. There’s no dogmatic chart, only a personal conversation between tailor and wearer.
Thanks again for elevating the discussion. By the way, I recently saw some interesting takes on formal wear over here — different context entirely, but a nice reminder of how cultural framing always shapes our approach to tailored clothing.
I love this suit. I can’t explain why in the same scientific terms as the writing, but it looks natural and comfortable. Makes me want to revisit tailoring.
I think tis is a great article Manish.
To me the shoulder issue is a big concern.
Basically, with your “square” shoulders you can use them as a clothes horse as you end up with pretty much a right angle, ie the shoulder extends at right angles from your neck sleeve drops vertically from the end of the shoulder. After that it becomes a stylistic issue; sleeve size etc.
Simon’s “dropped” shoulders mean that anything which extends beyond the end of his shoulder, or which involves roping of any degree, actually amplifies the degree to which his shoulders drop. That makes the tailors job far harder and the outcome is always going to look less clean than with yours.
Beautiful suit and well written as always Manish. Keep buying clothes and writing about it!
Thanks ever so much, Raj!
If you’re the same gentlemen I met recently, it was lovely to meet you.
If not, I hope we meet soon!
Dear Mr Puri
Please identify where those photographs of you in your beautiful suit were taken (so sunny and full of green foilage, almost tropical, yet at the far rear of one is a blurry red sign which might advertise “books”) and please describe the conditions of temperature and weather in general necessary or ideal for wear of your tweed suit. It took me awhile to realize that one significant difference which influences design men’s clothes is the climate. One reason why clothes designed and made in Italy might be more popular and prominently displayed for sale for example in certain parts of Switzerland than clothes designed and made in England, Scotland and Ireland might be because of weather?
Tweed may be incorporated as cloth by designers in Italy, but is do persons living in Italy wear tweed suits?
Dear Metamorphosis
This was actually taken in north London on a sunny day! The red sign is a London bus going by 🙂
I would wear this suit anywhere up to 15 degrees celsius (which can take us up to May in London) – below 10 with a coat and above 10 maybe with a light coat or a jumper draped over for a little extra warmth.
Thank you! I don’t think tweed suits are popular in warm climates.
May I ask if you usually run cold or hot? In Copenhagen, on a May day like today, with 15 degrees and sun, I’m way closer to linen than tweed. But I also run quite hot myself.
Hi Dario
Usually a little bit cold. But I do agree, 15 in bright sun and it feels a lot warmer. 15 in a cloudy London and it feels a lot cooler.
Interesting article and congratulations on the suit that obviously makes you happy.
Looking at Simon’s article, he seems a bit uncomfortable or unhappy. The other differences are in the colour of shirt and tie (maybe there’s something to colour theory after all?), and the shirt collar. All of these small details add up.
Ciao Manish,
a wonderful suit, lovely cloth, picture 10, arms crossed, is the personification of calm confidence.
It is your cloth-armour, that comes across easily, no wonder the female car pilot was distracted perhaps !
Your overall comments are welcome and I think you draw an important illustration that Belief is Fallible and Knowledge remains Infallible.
We sometimes choose one over the other or try and combine, but ultimately, Emotion always wins standing in front of the mirror.
Grazie, JR.
Grazie JR 🙂
Derek Guy said something similar in the latest issue of the PS magazine: invest in clothes that have emotional durability instead of just physical durability
Ciao Manish,
Signore Guy is making an extremely important point and I think you should take the baton for PS and explore this much further.
I think there is a widening line nowadays in regards to how men dress.
If I look at your style on this post and that of Signore Gaetano Aloisio , there is good inspiration , away from wooden stereotypes and more an insight into personal taste and daring.
Bravo – you may have just bridged the gap between the follia celestiale ( a form of divine madness ) of style and appreciation of self.
Grazie, JR.
I love the suit, Manish, and I agree the proportions tend to suit you better. The cloth is fabulous too
Thank you Matt 🙂
I cannot say I was over impressed with that suit. People can look just as good in a suit from the stores.
It is also of course the person that wears it. Men should not have beards when they are white beards.. it does not matter how well groomed it is, it ages them considerably, and makes their clothes not look as good as they could because attention is drawn to the beard, not the clothes.
The most ridiculous comment I have seen. Please post a link to your full picture and fit.
Beard looks fantastic.
To my eye:
There’s too much fullness in the chest of Simon’s jacket. This jacket’s chest is cut well.
The shoulder puckering on LM’s jackets look better on more casual fabrics.
The color of Simon’s jacket is a weird and too somber shade of navy.
But this house style, with its Liveranoesque concave lapels, parabolic chest-opening-into-quarters, and relatively closed chest/quarters, do not work best with either of these fabrics. With navy worsteds, I generally prefer more opened chest/quarters and convex lapels. With tweeds, a straight lapel works best.
Love the drop-six drop-six kilos line!
And the Donegal tweed suit is marvelous. Can’t agree though about the fit Simon’s blue suit. The second picture (without the vest) looks quite perfect to me.
Envious of the both of you!
Manish – Great looking suit. My reaction is that this is a suit you can wear for absolutely no reason other than you want to wear a suit and be comfortable in it. Not a wedding, nor a board meeting, nor a court appearance, but just because. Please don’t be offended, but it is almost American in its ease. Simon’s is beautiful as well, but feels more appropriate for an event. Yours can be worn to the antiquarian bookstore or art museum, Simon’s less so. As for the aspirational drop, let’s not even go there. Be comfortable, and you will look good. I am building up to a summer suit purchase. And articles like this are immensely helpful.
Thank you so much, Tom. Absolutely no offence taken! I like that notion 🙂
Quite thought provoking: there’s definitely something to different styles suiting different body types, and absolutely different personal styles – as in what one customarily wears and the look one tries to present – not to mention different fabrics as well. But even without trying to intellectualise or articulate it, this suit looks great on your Manish (or rather I should say, you look great in it)!
PS I hope the woman in the first paragraph wasn’t your wife!
Haha! No, and it wasn’t my ex-wife either!
Thank you so much 🙂
Manish,
You are giving strong Sean Connery in Dr. No vibes. Perhaps worth auditioning to succeed Daniel Craig?
Cheers!
Rand
Hahha! Dr. No Chance!
Very interesting piece that adds a useful extra dimension to the more analytical review of Simon’s Luca Museo suit. I would welcome more pieces like this because read together they allow a reader to make a more informed choice on whether a tailor reviewed on here will suit them stylistically. Ultimately tailoring is not just about achieving a mathematically perfect fit but about fulfilling an aesthetic and stylistic vision.
I would also welcome something more on the versatility of a grey Donegal suit like this. I have seen them crop up occasionally in in the classic menswear sphere (Peter Zottolo has a beautiful one from a Sicilian tailor) and even have one myself (something I had made when my style was still more vintage menswear than classic menswear), but I can never work out how versatile they are. They look fantastic as a ‘city tweed’ suit as shown here and with a black knit for a more casual alternative but beyond that they feel too casual for a business suit and too dressy for a proper casual suit.
Thanks Alan.
Yes, happy to do something on the versatility. I think you’re broadly right though. The only thing I’d say is that this cloth has a lot of grey and black splotches so it is relatively dark, and so I think it would pass in a number of offices without raising too many eyebrows.
The suit looks great on you, Manish!
Thanks so much Andy 😊 see you soon!
hi Manish
that is a beautiful suit. The Donegal is a very versatile fabric. what’s the weight?
i think you could wear this in so many situations.
I find I like the forequarter more closed. Is this something that is easily doable by Italian tailors?
Hi Joners
I’m not 100% but I’d say 12-14 oz – in that zone anyway.
Yes, absolutely.
Manish
how about doing article on Bryceland shirts?
Hi Joners
I’m happy to, but Simon has covered their MTM in more general. Was there something specific you were interested in?
Handsome suit, handsome guy. Great post per usual
Thanks El Chango
Great article Manish, you always look so stylish.
I have a similar shape and it’s really helpful to know how you choose your clothes.
Thank you Peter! It’s so good to know it’s helpful.
Manish,
Short and to the point…GREAT SUIT!!
The suit is great but the article is better. I’ve learned a lot from Simon’s articles over the years but I get entertained by yours.
I wonder how this could become something more practical? I’ve made the mistake before of being inspired by others then realising something doesn’t work for my shape, complexion etc. On the latter I feel more informed but the former still lacking especially as someone further outside the norms… more like +6” than your straight down
I really enjoyed this article, Manish. Some great points that aren’t often discussed. Lovely suit as well.
Have you been sizing up to a large in LEJ and other brands as well recently?
Thank you so much, Lukas.
Generally, I’d say 2/3 to 3/4 of my wardrobe is still medium.
But, if something is very neat in the shoulders, slim in the arm or too shaped in the waist I will try a large.
On LEJ specifically, I’m still a solid medium, but as Liam has mentioned in other comments I have worn small to large in his stuff depending on which model it is, the vibe, etc.
Hope that helps 😊
Hi Manish
I love this suit – the colours and fit are incredible!
I have a slightly off topic question for you – as someone who moved from London to the SW a few years ago and doesnt really ever need to wear a suit, who would you recommend for a bespoke or MTM sports jacket? I have broad (square) shoulders and relatively slim (34) so not particurly complicated. I do work in an office but never wear a jacket there as Im always running warm indoors and it woud just be over my seat. So even with a sports jacket I would only be wearing it a few times a year (but I think worth an investment given I only currently have a few old ones from Suit Supply which are a tad short).
As a further aside, I would interested in any recommendations for casual / weekend trousers or perhaps an article genrally on clothes for those of us who dont live in the city. I know Simon has previously done an article on what he wears on the weekend which was v good. I’m thinking chinos. 5 pocket cords etc.
Many thanks!
Andy
Hi Andy
Thank you so much!
I would recommend The Anthology. I think the price of both their bespoke and MTM provides good value, they are here in London often enough that you will be able to get a garment relatively speedily, the house style is a good one, their customer service is excellent, and, perhaps most relevant to you, they give great great advice on casual jackets – it helps that the guys there where a lot of casual tailoring in their day to day. Hope that helps!
Good request on the trousers! Thank you 😊
Thanks a lot Manish! That’s great as I had previously been in contact with them and I like the Anthology style. Have you tried their flat front chinos? I wonder how they compare to the PS chinos?
BTW – when is the next PS event where I would be able to try on PS shirts?
cheers
Andy
There is information about the Anthology chinos in Friday’s article, Andy, if you’re interested.
The next PS pop-up is not until October
You can see the Brycelands influence on Manish with all the Navajo jewellery, it adds a nice touch that only us menswear nerds would see the vague reference… I’d be interested to see if Manish goes full PRL with the Navajo jewellery? The suit looks good. Also I’d add that Simon and Manish have different postures so comparing the two is like apples and oranges. Plus the textures changes so much of how the suits looks and the colour. But it does look like a really nice suit. Looking forwards to more reviews soon!
Cheers Isaac! I suspect this might be as far as I go…but never say never!
hi
just to indicate how they lasted over time, and how versatile and comfortable they proved to be.
Gotcha!
I will say the RTW OCBD has been a stalwart for me and lasted very well. Indeed, I’ve found all of the shirts made for Bryceland’s by Ascot Chang to be very well made and last well over time
What size are you normally in shirts? and what size did you get for the Brycelands?
I find some OCBD shrink quite abit so how did your OCBD Brycelands do in terms of shrinkage?
I wouldn’t say this one shrinks a lot.
I’m usually somewhere between a 15.5-16”, and went for the 16” here.
Dayum Manish is suave…
Dear Simon
Do you have any comment or have I overlooked a comment you already posted to the shoulder of your tweed suit jacket as it appears in the photograph above?
That’s a nice whistle and it complements you well, whereas Simon’s suit seems entirely too sombre. Probably, as another reader said, the “wrong” cloth.
Thanks Manish – fabulous suit, super versatile and I can imagine you will wear it to death. The rest of the outfit is spot on too – smart but so at ease. As someone who competed in the cycling Tour of Donegal in my youth, I have a soft spot for the area and fabric. Can I ask what weight it is and how you are finding it in these warmer spring days?
Regarding shoulder styles, PS has been invaluable in giving me all the theory. But honesty, some days I will pair a structured jacket with smashed up jeans and I think I look great……I will then try it a week later and it will look like some 80s parody!!
Thank you so much, James.
It’s a vintage cloth so I’m not 100% sure of the weight but I’d say it’s somewhere in the 12-14oz zone.
I’m still happy to wear it up to 15 degrees to be honest. The mornings are chilly so I layer a light coat or sweater. The middle of the day is fine – maybe a bit warm if you’re charging around town and it’s a clear day. And then the sun sets and it starts to feel a little cold again.
So, in London, I can see the suit working from late September and into May.
Haha! I like that sharp contrast! Keep at it 😊
Not even tangentially related to the comparison, but I have to say, with the grey suit and knit tie, you’re giving proper Sean-Connery-as-Bond vibes! A great look if I dare say so!
Equally unrelated, but I’m so happy someone’s holding the line for high-rise and roomy. It’s been woefully out of fashion for as long as I’ve been into tailoring, but I’ll take a wide leg and rise to the waist over slim and low any day! To me, it’s just the most flattering look one can get, not to mention comfy.
Haha! Thank you Alex! I feel like I’m putting the con into Connery
The pictures with Simon would look 50% better with a different shirt collar. Currently, the collar points parallel the shoulder line and the effect is just a little too much. Indeed, the angle of both being the same also makes the head/neck and body seem too separate and distinct, as if they are two unrelated blocks. A collar style like Manish’s would work better here as it flows better into the head and neck area (and on the flip side, a collar style like Simon’s would make Manish’s suit look worse).
I would also add that the shirt and suit both being blue here doesn’t help here. The lower contrast contributes to the shirt/suit seeming like one distinct block and the head/neck seeming like another. Breaking up the suit block with a white shirt would help a good deal.
Relatedly, I found Simon’s suit looks much better in video. Much tailoring on this site does. Perhaps video–it doesn’t have to be higher production quality than what’s on Instagram–should be common in reviews on this site.
Beautiful suit: I love the soft silhouette (from the broad shoulder to the low button stance).
Compliments on the styling — great outfit.
Any thoughts by Simon to this analysis?
Hey Chris,
I agree with pretty much all of it – Manish and I spoke about it when he was writing the piece. I might make something again with Luca Museo, but I’d tweak the style a little to make it not quite so wide on me.
Hi Manish, what is the watch you’re wearing, I have my guesses but would be thrilled to know for sure. It’s a very subtle addition compared to your ring+pin combo, but I see it didn’t get a mention, handsome regardless!
Hi Greyson
It’s one of my collection of Sekonda Raketas on a lizard strap. Pretty cheap and plentiful on eBay 😊
You both look good in the suits. What I see, Simon’s is a more formal fabric and the closer fit is aligned with that. Yours is more sophisticated country style and the more relaxed fit is aligned with that. Both work. I had a similar Donegal bespoke from Huntsman’s last year and I also love it and get compliments on it. It’s a beautiful option.