One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference pressing makes, and the ones with Ben Clarke, on hemming trousers and sewing a button.
For our next series, I wanted to focus on the sheer volume of work that goes into making a bespoke suit. To do that, we've taken three aspects of making a suit and filmed all of the work involved, with myself and the tailor Jennie Adamson explaining it as we go along.
The first instalment shows how a hip pocket is made. From forming the jetts to mitering, cutting away the lining to sewing an invisible silk stitch, there's a lot involved that no one would ever realise - unless it was shown like this.
It takes hours to make the pockets on a bespoke jacket, and minutes to make the ready-to-wear equivalent. Hopefully after watching this you'll look down at those pockets on your bespoke jacket and appreciate all the craft that went into them.
Jennie is a very talented tailor: a coatmaker for Gieves & Hawkes, a pattern maker for brands like The Deck and Casablanca, and a cutter and maker of her own tailoring. She has style too. More on her here.
The location is Cockpit Arts in Bloomsbury, a wonderful home for craftspeople that's just behind Lamb's Conduit Street. It's worth a visit on one of their open days if you ever get a chance - you can see the studios of jewellers, designers, artists, and buy from them where they work.
Thank you very much to Vitale Barberis Canonico for supporting this series. The cloth we used is my favourite VBC material, the four-ply high-twist wool in the Ascot bunch from Drapers. The suit being made is for Jennie, and I am wearing my suit from Assisi in the same material.
The code is 18054, which is the slightly beige-tinted grey. I think I misquoted that at one point, so apologies. It does look more grey than beige made up, as I think you can see. I'm also wearing it with our PS black denim shirt, which worked quite well (helps to have a bit of a tan I think).
Remember that all videos are available on the dedicated page of the PS site. Other similar videos are:
- Pressing: The unsung art of bespoke tailoring
- How to hem trousers like a Savile Row tailor
- How to sew on a button like a Savile Row tailor
- How to maintain and care for your suit
- How to hand wash knitwear
I enjoy this series, thank you. It makes me wonder how the folk competing in the Great British Sewing Bee are able to create some amazing-looking clothes so quickly. I suspect it’s “Made for TV” rather than for life.
Thanks, nice to hear.
Those pieces have very little internal structure – it’s just sewing together outer material, and then pretty roughly. More about design than craft mostly I guess
I spent an enjoyable moment with my tailor as he sewed a Milanese on my jacket for me. That takes skill.
That must have felt very special Phil
Fascinating. It’s almost Zen.
And thank you for working with a talented ‘independent’ to make this video rather than established names
I know right? Tailoring ASMR almost
My pleasure, it’s really nice to do and Jennie fully deserves it
Beautiful! It is always so relaxing to watch a real artisan work with their hands
This was a fascinating piece and video. I noticed on her website that there was no information concerning pricing. Do you know her pricing structure for a suit, sport coat, and pants?
Good point, let me check and confirm
Hey Scott,
The prices are:
Jacket – £3,470
Trousers – £1,290
2-pc suit – £4,760
All including cloth and VAT
Feel free to contact Jennie if you have any questions: [email protected]
Thank you for checking Simon.
I really admire artisanship and craftsmanship, people who make things. Thank you Simon for this behind the scenes peek into their world.
Pleasure Lee, nothing better when it’s appreciated by discerning people. A small fight against the blizzard of disposable fashion promotion
excellent video.. here is a ‘finished’ shot of my jacket pocket..
The pick stitching on the pocket looks far too visible.
I think it’s beautiful, always nice to add some texture.
Hi Simon, are there are any bespoke or brands you know of that make high-end jackets with no darts? Talking about more of a looser, boxier, sack suit-style cut but with other aspects being at that taste level.
For brands I’d look to the likes of J Press, John Simons or The Armoury and for bespoke someone like Tailor Caid.
Do you know those?
Yes, I do – or at least of them. I tried on Model 12 in black linen at the Armoury store the other day and it was very nice. Thanks for all the suggestions
Hi Simon and Jennie,
Thanks for sharing this video. The obvious skill and attention to detail that goes into this one small part of a bespoke suit is something very few of us get a chance to see, or have explained to us. And Jennie makes it all look so easy…till you try it of course!
The Cockpit Arts is a refreshing reminder that the centre of London still has some active connection with the arts and crafts. Thank goodness.
All best,
Rabi
It does, and it’s a lovely place to go to when they have their open days
It’s nice to see the effort that goes into these garments.
What I got out of the previous post you mentioned on “Pressing: the unsung art …” was how the bespoke process can be fine-tuned to create a three-dimensional jacket fitted to the unique contours of an individual. (That one was an eye-opener for me.) You refer to that in the pressing part of this vignette but do not elaborate on it explicitly.
This video could be made stronger by discussing when and where hand stitching is preferable — or superior to — machine stitching. What value is it giving us? Strength? Flexibility of movement? Superior construction that a factory process can’t match? You showed us the effort and care. But I wonder if more could be said to connect that effort to the quality of the outcome. (I appreciate this was intended to be a short video — not all there is to say.)
A related issue would be visible hand finishing details (lapel stitching, Milanese buttonholes, etc.). When would it be worth going for more hand finishing and when would it — arguably — be ostentatious? The answer is obviously going to be a bit personal, but there must be a way of breaking down the issue so we can see/assess the tradeoffs of these finer flourishes. I’m sure you have dropped some breadcrumbs about this before.
This video and the related ones you cite could contribute to a nice gestalt for readers by connecting how each of these craft processes add up to a final product that only humans could create.
Thanks Simon. And finally, thank Jennie for this glimpse into her interesting world.
Thank you Eric, very nice points. I think they’re probably best dealt with in another format like an article, but I agree they’re definitely complimentary. I’ll put them on my list!
Great new series and certainly more to bespoke than meets the eye as they say.
It’s amazing the different kinds of cloth that goes into bespoke.
I looked at Bernstein and Banleys website and they sell all kinds of cloth from horsehair, domette and even carry sample books at a price.
Great choice to focus on pocket make, somehow this gets little to no attention and is actually really fascinating . Looking forward to next episode.
I once did a sewing course which completely changed how I view clothes. I don’t make any but god it’s such hard work
Ha! Exactly
This was lovely! I’m looking forward to the next videos. Fascinating and relaxing to watch. Great video production too.
So she is making a full double breasted suit for herself? The griege color of the cloth is wonderful. I had just made up that color in a single breasted suit for this summer, and I find it really is unique-yet subtle. I want to get another made up in the Ascot dark brown right near that cloth in their Ascot book. I think it would mix well-I hope! Four different combinations from two suits. We’ll see…
Do you know why she picked the four-ply? Just because it drapes better than the 2-ply,?
I went for the two ply in 250 grams, and it is about the best cloth I have for Rome’s blistering summer. At least, until we get passed 35 degrees! We’ve been around 40 during the day and the nights aren’t much better. for more than a month. So going naked doesn’t help much either.
I have several 9oz Frescoes and a few Crispaires but for Rome’s summer I found the 2-ply Ascot significantly more comfortable than the others. Don’t know why I waited so long to try the Drapers. I know you’re a big fan of the crispaire, (me too!) which probably works well in London’s cooler weather, but I find it feels much warmer than the Ascot and even the 9oz Fresco when it’s hot and humid.
Thank you, lovely to hear.
She is making a single-breasted suit.
The dark brown is very nice, I have a pair of trousers in it.
I prefer 4 ply too, but we’re not dealing with such extreme heat here in the UK. I can see two ply being better for that kind of heat.
I do like Crispair, but it’s a bit too smooth and you’re right, not as cool
Hello, I was listening to an interview with Karlo Steel, founder of the atelier in New York (avant garde clothes). They were discussing the work of Carol Christian Poell and that he was a fantastic tailor despite all experiments he does with the clothes. Karlo told him many times old men in Milan (in tailoring) had walked up to him and praised his suits (CCP suits). They had never heard of CCP of course but they could tell it is good work. Always when I hear discussions like this I get a little sceptical if you compare it to the best tailors you write about here on PS. But at the same time I want to be openminded. They are good designers and so on but how good tailor do you think CCP is?
I don’t really know Stefan, but I think often with those stories it’s people admiring the design, the cut, rather than more subtle points of classic fit and elegance
Yes I understand that, but classic fit and elegance is one thing, and be a good tailor is another thing right? I was just curious if you knew.
True, though people sometimes use the term to mean slightly different things, eg someone who designs tailored clothing. I don’t know though no!