One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it.
However, the extra material of the sleeve can be worked into different parts of that armhole, depending on what you want the final sleevehead to look like. The top can be smooth and clean, with all the fullness at the bottom; or roped, with a thick wad of padding at the top to sit around; or it can fall in lots of little ripples, in the Neapolitan manner.
In this, the third video with tailor Jennie Adamson, we see how she puts a sleevehead together. There's a lot in there, and I'm amazed it can all fit together so beautifully.
I hope you like it and, as with the first video on pockets and the second on lapels, it gives you newfound appreciation of your bespoke clothing. They're such beautiful pieces of both art and engineering.
Jennie is a a coatmaker for Gieves & Hawkes, a pattern maker for brands like The Deck and Casablanca, and a cutter and maker of her own tailoring. More on her here. The location is Cockpit Arts in Bloomsbury, a wonderful home for craftspeople that's just behind Lamb's Conduit Street.
Thank you to Vitale Barberis Canonico for supporting this series. The cloth we used is my favourite VBC material, the four-ply high-twist wool in the Ascot bunch from Drapers. The suit being made is for Jennie, and I am wearing my suit from Assisi in the same material.
You can see the first video in the series here. Other similar videos:
- Pressing: The unsung art of bespoke tailoring
- How to hem trousers like a Savile Row tailor
- How to sew on a button like a Savile Row tailor
- How to maintain and care for your suit
- How to hand wash knitwear
Thanks Simon.
Illustrating how the custom attention to sleeve construction affects movement and wearability is the missing connection for those of us who are less knowledgeable about this level of tailoring.
It really is a whole different animal, so to speak.
Franco Puppato, tailor in Venice, is definitely the master of sleeves.
Anything specific you can mention there? Interested to know what you mean in particular
He cares a lot on the shape of the sleeve which, together with the back of the collar, is his signature piece and he admits it is the component where he cares more than anything else in a jacket. His sleeve is much more curved than usual (he defines his sleeve a “sword”). On Instagram you can find videos showing that.
Thanks
Beautiful video!
I am curious about the part where she is with some kind of brush (1:39). Is she gluing something?
No, she’s adding water to the edge. It means that when she uses the iron, in the next step, the material will shrink a little
It’s funny, the first suit that wasnt from a high street brand I bought was a MTM from Ebe & Ravenscroft a few months after starting working in the City, back when they had a branch on Gracechurch St/ Bishopsgate.
Didnt really know about bespoke, the fact that places like Graham Browne existed, just knew I couldn’t afford Savil Row. Was so excited to get a jacket that fitted better and one of my bugbears was how much jacket sleeves rode up when raising my arm and how restrictive they felt etc compared to others.
Was disappointed when it arrived, the fit was little better but the arm issues were worse than normal. I mentioned the armholes were massive and seemed to me to be the root of the issues but was told I was wrong and the sign of a good bespoke jacket was a large armhole as it gave more freedom of movement.
Was a few months later that I found this site, learned about Browne and had my first suit made by them and was so much better for the same price. In fairness to E&R the trousers I still wear very occasionally, I got rid of the jacket many years ago, whereas that first suit from Browne succumbed to moths over the Covid years.
Lovely story Dan!
If my memory is correct, Wensum made MTM for Ede & Ravenscroft and other tailoring firms such as Gieves & Hawkes. The quality of the tailoring, half-canvassed like E&R’s RTW, was similar to that of Bladen. Bladen was Wensum’s own or sister brand. Its British factories were closed down and manufacturing was transferred to Mauritius. The companies ceased trading a few years ago but I have since seen “made in Mauritius” on tailored jackets. I’d love to know which MTM factory E&R uses now.
This post beautifully highlights the intricate craftsmanship involved in tailoring bespoke suits, especially regarding the construction of sleeves. I appreciate the detailed exploration of how different sleevehead styles can impact both functionality and aesthetics.
To expand on the discussion, it’s worth noting that the fit of the armhole and sleeve can significantly influence not just the mobility but also the overall silhouette of the suit. A smaller armhole paired with a larger sleeve provides a unique balance, allowing for elegant lines while ensuring comfort.
Moreover, the choice of fabric, such as the four-ply high-twist wool from Vitale Barberis Canonico, plays a crucial role in the suit’s drape and structure. The high-twist technique creates a resilient fabric that retains its shape, offering the wearer a refined appearance without sacrificing flexibility.
It’s also fascinating to consider how different tailoring traditions, like Neapolitan tailoring with its characteristic ripples, convey distinct style elements that cater to various tastes. This choice allows individuals to express their personality through bespoke clothing.
Kudos to Jennie Adamson for sharing her expertise, and I look forward to seeing how this suit develops in future videos. It’s truly an art form that blends traditional techniques with modern sensibilities!
What’s your opinion on using machine AMF pick stitching for made-to-measure suits? Should this detail be reserved for bespoke and hand-made suits, or is it acceptable for made-to-measure as well to have the machine version?
I’d avoid it myself, if you have a the choice. It often looks too heavy and verges on flashy
If you see pick stitching on a bespoke suit, something is wrong! You would not expect to see this on true bespoke.
I’m not sure where you’ve got that from, Martin, but you see pick stitching on a lot of bespoke. Less so on English, but even you still see it on some pieces, even coming in a little to make a more swelled edge
Hi Simon,
little off topic- consider buying the bridge coat. I’m 183cm tall and 90kg. Rather athletic stature. Want this coat to fit a sports coat underneath. Should I opt for size 5 or 6?
Many thanks, Max
Hey Max,
With the bridge coat I’d say if in doubt, size up. It quite slim through the waist, which actually should be good for a guy like you that’s fairly athletic.
Checking the measurements against something you already own is a good back-up option too.
Cheers
If it helps, i have 45″ chest and size 6 is borderline small for me…..
thanks both of you!
Great series Simon. Curious, I have been hearing good things about Scavini in Paris, have you had any experience with them?
No I haven’t
Simon, thanks for the reminder about how beautiful fine tailoring can be, which is ultimately the purpose, in my humble opinion. The suit you are wearing in the introduction embodies everything good tailoring should. I thoroughly enjoy and value these insights into the craft behind the art.
Lovely to hear, thanks Tom
Thanks again for another fascinating video. The intricacy, skill and patience would make a surgeon proud!
Simon,
How do you deal with it when a tailor gets an order wrong? I ordered a bespoke overcoat that was supposed to have an ulster style lapel, but instead the lapel came with a pointed up peak lapel style and a collar that was smaller than I had requested.
What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Pat
If it’s a major fault like the lapel type, I think they need to refund you or offer it to you at a reduced rate that you’re happy with, as they clearly made a mistake. Some things are more of a grey area, like the collar there, but it doesn’t sound like the lapel was
I brought it up to him that this wasn’t the lapel style that we had agreed (I even showed pictures at the time of ordering), but he said he didn’t remember that. It’s very frustrating. It was my first time ordering something bespoke.
Oh dear, I’m very sorry to hear that Pat. I hope you didn’t pay everything in advance?
Thanks, Simon.
I did. It was a tailor in the City, not Savile Row. What is normally done in the “high-end” tailors? Do you pay 50% in advance and 50% when ready?
Yes, usually