Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or SuitSupply, and I’d certainly recommend Natalino over them.
For quite a long time, I confess, I didn’t pay much attention to Natalino. The selling point seemed to be mostly price; they were cheaper than anyone else selling Neapolitan-style tailoring and there didn't seem to be much added in terms of style.
When we went into the store recently and spoke to the founder Nathan, he talking about this point around price: he started Natalino online after leaving his job at Merrill Lynch, because while he and his friends loved having bespoke Neapolitan tailoring, they didn’t want to pay that as day-to-day clothing. Price was always a factor.
There are a few problems with selling on price, but one is it restricts how much you can add your own personality - basically, how much you can sell the clothes you want. “The Neapolitan factories we worked with all had a default style that was shorter, tighter, with big dramatic lapels,” said Nathan. Developing a separate block and style takes time, and money.
“This double-breasted you’re trying on,” he said as I tried a size-48 navy flannel in the store, “is our fifth variation of the style. It’s now much more what we like than at the beginning. It’s more relaxed, with a lower and more rounded peak. It’s easier to wear more casually.”
Since Nathan brought on staff David and Ruben last year, and opened the shop on Mortimer Street, the company has changed a fair bit. “We now do more of our own photography, lookbooks, we communicate the style,” he said. “We’re also getting better at having stock in - though as things have been so busy since we opened, even that’s been hard to keep on top of.”
The shop and staff mean added costs, but Nathan has done his best to keep price increases down. “They have gone up, but not much. We still have a lot of guys coming in because the value point so we need to retain that.” A jacket is now between £450 and £525, with trousers £195 extra.
Of course, the price would be meaningless if the style wasn’t also good, and I was impressed at what I tried on.
The jackets are all made in Naples (the trousers in Portugal) and it has that feeling of a genuine Neapolitan jacket: spalla camicia shoulder, open foreparts, rounded and rolling front edge. It has all the aspects of Neapolitan style that have made it so popular, with none of the extreme details.
The armhole is quite high and the sleeve large, which is also impressive at this price. The block itself works particularly well on those with more sloping shoulders, Nathan admits, and so it’s good on me. Those with really square shoulders find it harder.
And it should be made clear that Natalino don’t do MTM or anything similar - only ready-to-wear and alterations to it.
If I was being picky I’d want a little less pick stitching on the edges and lapels, but I know some readers will like that. The trousers are also genuinely high rise, which is not what I prefer, but again some will love it. Things like the shetland knits they now do are cut shorter with those trousers in mind.
So if the cut is good, what do you lose by being at this price level rather than Anglo-Italian, for example?
Well the differences are actually quite clear when you put the jacket on. The fronts are partly fused and the lapels and collar feel solid. There is none of the malleability you get with a more hand-made garment, or the three-dimensional elements you get with something like a curved, hand-attached collar. The jackets are also only half-canvassed.
There are other online sellers where you can perhaps get a higher quality level for a similar price, but comparing Natalino to its peers in London, this still feels like good value - Anglo-Italian is certainly better made, but a jacket there now starts at £1,100.
And as I said earlier, the style compares very well with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or Suit Supply (though the latter is cheaper). The biggest thing Natalino probably lacks compared to those is variety - other than one tobacco linen, the range is entirely grey and navy at the moment.
“This is something we will slowly look to expand on,” says Nathan. “To be honest, most people want navy and grey, in fact the biggest request we get is for more standard suits, in worsteds rather than flannel, but it is good to do some interesting patterns and colours.” Variety, of course, is one more thing that comes with a cost.
I haven’t yet tried the rest of the clothes at Natalino, but the shirts look like a good proposition: simple make but with nice style, like the tailoring.
The knitwear will be too short for me, while the jeans are an impressively high rise but I’m not so keen on the washes. They have done other categories in the past, including rip-stop cargo trousers made in Japan, and are developing T-shirts and shorts.
It’s an interesting operation, with a contemporary-feeling store, stylish staff and now more developed product. I’m happy to say I was wrong to discount Nathan and what he was doing for so long; hopefully this piece will go some way to correct that.
46 Mortimer St, London W1W 7RL
Would have been nice to include photos and descriptions of trying on some specific pieces, telling us about the fit of those pieces, and identifying some of your favorite pieces in the new collection.
Thanks, yes happy to do so in future pieces
Hi Simon,
Can you please explain what “partly fused” means exactly? If the jacket has a half canvas, is there a fusing on the bottom part of the jacket? Or how is it?
Yes exactly, there is fusing in the bottom half. You’ll probably find the top half, lapel and collar will feel a little more solid than higher-end tailoring as well
And that “solid” (stiff?) feeling is because of the way the canvas is made?
I’m not sure to be honest, but I can check
Thanks!
I own two jackets from Natalino and they are my favorite cut in that price range. I’m comparing them to my other jackets by Boglioli, berg&berg, Cavour and others. I find comparing them to Hacket or Boggi unfair as these are fused only, while Natalino’s are half-canvassed. Length, room in the shoulders and chest, buttoning point just happen to be spot on for me on the Natalino jackets. Their trousers are slightly too slim and with too much taper in the leg for my liking though.
Useful feedback, and good point on Hackett and Boggi – we’re comparing brands in roughly the same price bracket, so good to highlight the constructions elsewhere
On that note, Suitsupply occasionally offers full canvas jackets/suits which you can also get through the MTO program. I personally used their MTO for all of my formal shirts (in the attractive large classic collar), wool trousers, and a full canvas navy blazer from them that I’m very happy with. Easy to dial in fit using the ready-to-wear line, many fabric options, and free returns even on MTO so less pressure.
With MTO you mean their custom program (MTM) but you order in RTW sizes?
You’re right, that’s what I was referring to and MTM might be a more accurate designation. What I did was try their RTW and compared measurements to figure out how much the standard sizes needed to be adjusted. I only made basic adjustments like sleeve length, collar size, waist etc. but they also offer more detailed adjustments like buttoning point height for example.
SuitSupply allowing free returns on MTO pieces has been a godsend. Nowhere else at that price point can you buy in such a risk free manner. I use that service of theirs regularly.
I mentioned this in another post, but only superficially.
What is the true price of a brand? If you look at Cavour, whose products I bought fairly frequently before I had serious quality issues with their shirts (lots of buttons coming off), I would say that Cavour’s true price is 50% of the retail price. A large part of their products is always on sale and I would guess that most customers only pay the sales price and not the full retail price. The same seems to apply to Berg & Berg. Even with Private White, I never paid the full retail price because they also constantly have many products on sale.
On the other extreme are PS, of course, Colhay’s or Luca Faloni, which you can never get on sales. So the offered full price is their true price.
Natalino’s sales are quite sparse and then the products sell out quickly. I would therefore guess that most of their products are sold at full retail price. Besnard seems to me another example of this strategy. This puts Natalino in the same price range as e.g. Cavour or Berg & Berg.
Then it’s also good to highlight that Cavour is fully canvassed.
True, though it would take a much longer piece to give the make details on all comparative brands.
Good points. Drake’s is a better comparison as their jackets are now half-canvassed and made in Italy. They are around twice the price as Natalino’s! Unfortunately, Natalino tends to run out of stock very quickly. As usual, there is little choice in my size on the website. 🙁
I believe Drake’s are made better in other ways though Kent. Not that that necessarily justifies the price, but it’s not a straight comparison on the quality side. I’d always want a full canvas if I could, but things like a lack of fusing and a hand-attached collar are more important
How are Drake’s half-canvassed jackets are better than Natalino’s fully-canvassed jackets? It’s an important question as I’m thinking of buying a Drake’s jacket on Ebay at half the current retail price. At full price, Anglo-Italian’s jackets are around £200 more than Drake’s but they are hand-made and fully-canvassed. Natalino is 50% plus cheaper than AI. So which of those London brands offers the best value for money?
So first, I’d avoid saying things like ‘hand made’. That could mean almost anything, there are so many grades of amounts of handwork involved!
Anyway, I believe Drake’s and Anglo and similar, but I haven’t looked at Drake’s for a while. They have also changed factories on occasion, so the piece on eBay depends on the era. Have a look at the Suit entry in the Guide to Quality though, that will give you a sense of the quality levels, the things to look for
I don’t think this “Guide to Quality” link is in the PS menu Guides section. Heads up if that was an oversight. Adding a link there it would make this more discoverable.
At half price Drakes is pretty good value. If you like the fabric and have room in your wardrobe I’d pull the trigger. I’ve never regretted a drakes purchase, there are so many nice touches (I’ve got one older and one slightly newer sports coat, and some other bits and bobs).
This would be an interesting article of its own. Tailoring is often presented as fused, half canvas and full canvas; and once at the latter level, the essential product is the same thing but made differently depending on whether it’s RTW, MTM or bespoke. Whereas of course there’s much more to it than that.
We’ve covered it already Jim – have a look at Suits in the Guide to Quality
Drakes’ design goes some way towards covering the price. I’ve no insight into their margins, but I doubt they’re making too much after all their costs are included.
Drakes is absolutely the case study in this regard. The prices continue to sky rocket but the quality has remained mid-tier as it’s always been. None of the suits are fully canvassed and imo the quality of their accessories has declined in recent years. Most of their inventory seems to be sold off at up to 75% off in their twice yearly “archive” sales. The pop-up sales shop in NYC is like a day at the zoo when the sale is on…clothes strewn all over floor, no real changing rooms so guys trying stuff on in the middle of the store, crowds fighting over that previously $500 Mughal print silk scarf now going for $50 etc. etc.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention Wils. That sale sounds quite something.
I am pretty sure Boggi also has half-canvas and full-canvas items, such as the orange line which I believe is always fully canvassed.
With regards to the Hackett comment, whilst the Hackett London range is fused I do very much appreciate their Savile Row collection which is Half canvassed and JPH No.14 made in Italy product. They also extensively use fantastic fabrics from Loro Piana!
Hi Simon,
What is your preferred rise on the trouser and why? I personally like my trousers to be on the natural waist I.E for me I think this is 5cm if I remember correctly from the bespoke trousers I had made up which made up my bespoke suit. The reason being it accentuates my legs and gives the illusion of being slightly longer I.E taller.
Best regards,
Al
Hey Al,
There is an article going into detail on this here. Personally I like the advantages of a high-rise trouser but don’t want it so high that it looks odd without a jacket on.
Simon, do you think high-rise pants would look odd without a jacket if you were routinely wearing a sweater?
It’s certainly less of an issue, yes
I have a pair of mid grey trousers from Natalino, which is among my favorites.
I can also recommend the trousers – I have a pair of grey flannels, single pleated with a high waist, which have proved to be surprisingly hardwearing, still looking smart after lots of business travel and long days of wear. Therefore when I read in the article about the founder not wanting to pay bespoke price for what would be “day to day clothing”, this resonated with me and where I see Natalino fitting in to my wardrobe and what I need from it. Yes I have some better-made and more expensive trousers, but when I don’t want to subject those to long, uncomfortable days on the road, Natalino has done the job really well for the price, in my experience. “Much more PS style than others at that price point” captures it perfectly, I think.
Anyway, nice to see them covered, Simon – thanks as always for the balanced and informative article.
Nice to hear W, thanks
Simon,
I don’t think you’ve done Natalino any favours with this article. The overall tone is quite negative really. I am not tempted to buy any of their products after having read this article.
I also find the comparison with Boggi, Hackett or Suit Supply rather unfair. In terms of style, quality, price and presentation, I would compare Natalino with Berg & Berg and Cavour. I think most buyers considering Natalino are also considering these brands and not Boggi, Hackett or Suit Supply.
You could argue that Berg & Berg and Cavour are more expensive, but that’s not true when you consider that Berg & Berg and Cavour offer most of their products de facto permanently on sale at half price. In my opinion, this is an issue that is not considered enough on Permanent Style….. what is the true price of each brand.
I don’t think Simon intends to do favours as he is a journalist. That being said I read the article and felt it was a positive tone – “cheaper, well styled tailoring” – and prompted me to check out their website.
Same sentiment here. I went to their website not to make a purchase just out of curiosity as to how they present themselves and the range they offer.
It would become tedious if Simon was expected to endlessly pick over brands to find their positives so as to present them in their best light.
Regarding your point on full price/sale price that’s true of many brands. Ever seen the MrPorter sale? Goodness where would one even start?
I always thought of Natalino as a cheaper Berg&Berg. Both with a similar style and target audience with Natalino being more of a budget option.
I think Natalinos shirts are far superior to Berg and Berg’s!
I’m not sure Simon was intending to do them any favours, but present to us his honest opinion of the clothes they are currently selling. I think he does that well, being complimentary about the aspects he likes while pointing out any drawbacks that result from keeping the prices down.
It’s nice to see something new in London but again is it for me?
If I were coming over to London, I’d probably be heading for W&S for the classic bespoke offering which is of course in an entirely different league to Natalino but there’s no doubt that Natalino are trying to keep prices down and I highly admire them for that and I wish them well.
Were you under the impression that Permanent Style was written only for you?
I think that’s a little aggressive, let’s keep it polite please.
Thank you Simon. I did not mean anything disrespectful and I am shocked to read this!
Permanent style is for everyone of course and I wasn’t implying any offence or partiality and as I clearly stated that I wish Natalino well and anyone else for that matter!
I think it is nice to have RTW options covered in a lower price bracket. Going to London for a nice shopping trip or specifically to get a bespoke suit are two completely different occasions. And while I’m not really wearing RTW anymore I always enjoy trying on stuff while I have the chance.
Thank you Teekay for your constructive comment.
How would you say their cut and quality differ between Natalino and Berg & Berg? I have a polo and pleated trousers I love from Berg, but am interested in trying Natalino.
The Natalino cut is more straight Neapolitan and I prefer that personally. Berg is a slightly higher quality I believe – I don’t think there is any fusing for example. I think it’s certainly worth trying Natalino, particularly if you’re in London and can visit the shop
Berg&Berg, especially on their latest collection, is way fuller in the trousers. Jackets are a bit more straight for Berg&Berg.
I own two jackets from Natalino and one from berg&berg. They both are good length (ie not too short) with a relatively low buttoning point. Classic silhouette in that regard on both. b&b feels slightly stiffer in the chest and shoulders, natalino feels a little softer – but that may also be down to the cloth rather than construction. I prefer the Natalino pattern, because it gives me ever so slightly more room in the chest, shoulders and upper arms. At the end it’s down to personal taste and your body type. Both offer a similar excellent value for money in my opinion.
Hi Simon,
I have a casual wardrobe (think it was your “what makes a quality sweatshirt” article which initially drew me this site) but am looking to purchase one good suit for weddings, christenings etc. I cannot justify buying bespoke as I never have to wear a suit for work.
I like the look of Neapolitan tailoring and have been drawn to the likes of Anglo Italian and Natalino. Would a simple single-breasted navy suit from either of these retailers look right with black captoe Oxfords for a smart occasion? Almost all of their look book photos seem to be shown with loafers. Or would an English style suit go better with smart black Oxford shoes? Thank you.
Hey Danny,
Yes absolutely, either would work well with smart shoes like that
I love Natalino. I own a sport coat and poplin shirt. Love the fit on both and plan on buying more. I can still afford Anglo Italian, but honestly the things I’ve tried from each brand, I prefer the Natalino item especially in the cut/fit category and honestly the fabric too. I’ll continue to buy from them, to me they’re the best in their price point and I prefer them over some more expensive options as well.
Whatever makes them cheaper, I don’t notice or feel it when I’m wearing it. They also take feedback well and have updated the fit of their jackets as well for the better IMO. Bravo to the team and wish them more future success.
Oh wow the knits really are quite short. I find Rubato too short but these would barely even reach my navel
Perfect for people who wear highrise like me ahahaa
Natalino is quite ok I’d say.
Jackets I weirdly had to size down from Spier Mackay neo cut. Still felt more boxy. They had a lot of Lanificio Di Pray which I don’t like. I have 2 jackets and trousers from the mill and they just “feel” too delicate. Now if they pop up with some nice gunclub harris tweed, they will be on my radar.
But thing with natalino is, you have to try before you buy. If you have a piece from previous seasons you like, that’s no warranty you’ll like current. And vice versa.
Had 2 pairs of trousers. Cut really didn’t work for me. Current trousers are ok if you like high rise.
Have a denim shirt. My favourite shirt. Ever! New shirts cut changed. Doesn’t work for me anymore.
Have black long sleeve polo. Material feels one of the cheapest I’ve seen. Cut is ok. Tried new ones. Material is nicer but cut again doesn’t work for me.
I guess for the price, I’ll stick to anthology long sleeve polo, yeossal trousers and spier and Mackay jackets and knitted tshirts.
i found the same issue with cut and size measurements between seasons. Despite the same waist measurement for trousers they vary hugely between seasons by around 1.5-2cm. It’s not a big issue as I size up or down accordingly but it means lots of time at the post office!
Which brands offer Neapolitan ready-to-wear full-canvas, non-fused clothing at the most affordable price point? Brands like Isaia and De Petrillo still seem quite expensive to me
Good question, I’m not sure I can think of anyone that’s actually made in Naples at a lower price point. It’s quite remarkable that Natalino is at that price
Perhaps not too far away on the price is Eduardo de Simone RTW line? I have one from them, retail price of about 1,000 EUR – don’t recall exactly, full canvas, very nice Draper’s fabric, Neapolitan details of straight lapels, but with a lower gorge, spalla camicia, barchetta pocket, soft construction, mid-high rise, single pleats, some handwork.
Oh nice, yes I hadn’t thought about that Stephan
You might want to have a look at the Cavour Sartoria line. I believe they are made in Naples, but please do not take my word for it and check. While the Sartoria line is expensive at full price, Cavour has a permanent sale (minus 50%) and then they are good value.
Hello, Markus! I see many people here referencing the permanent sale at Cavour, but I have not noticed it? I do know they have a sale section that always has something in it, but it is a limited selection and not sure there is any Sartoria line in there. Is this what you were referring to or is there a sale option I am not aware of? I find their stuff nice, but often to expensive for my budget.
I didn’t mean that Cavour offers all its items for sale all the time, no. But always a considerable proportion. At the moment there are 171 items on sale, including 25 “blazers” (i.e. jackets), 4 of which are from the “handmade” line.
Also, I’ve noticed that the items that Cavour sells at full price at any given time always go on sale at some point, and then almost all sizes seem to be available.
I bought five pairs of pants, 2 merino socks and 5 shirts (including 2 Sartoria shirts) from Cavour, all at half price.
Wow, well done! I will pay closer attention to their sale section then!
Simon, it appears from the comments that your inclusion of Natalino has, to be kind to those commenting, generated mixed responses. It is for that reason I want to thank you for the article. Whilst I appreciate they are well below the normal price point of Permanent Style; I had been looking for genuine high rise RTW trousers in London with little success. I have bespoke high rise trousers that I love, but for odd pairs/colours it’s nice to have a RTW to explore. Hope the NYC pop up is going well.
Lovely to hear, thanks Rob.
I have some Cordings trousers that are high rise.
I salute him leaving the Corporate Finance sweatshop culture behind to do what he loves. Wish these guys well.
I second the comment about wanting to see pictures of you trying on some of their pieces but grateful for the coverage otherwise. I think Natalino do a good job of providing a decent quality more affordable option for those of us who like what you usually cover but don’t have the budget for bespoke. There are of course trade offs for that price but it’s good to see that a strong design, brand identity and excellent fabric choices are still possible at this price point. I think they also did a good job of improving their cut over time – for example, when they first came onto the scene the gorge on their jackets was so high it was almost on top of the shoulder but they have since brought it down to create a more balanced look.
Yes exactly Alan.
And noted on fits, thanks, we can do more in the future
I think Natalino is a nice entry point into tailoring world for someone who’s just getting serious or a solid choice for those that either don’t see the need or can’t quite afford the jump into ~£1000 full canvas options. I’ve recommended them a couple of times when someone has asked for advice but I think the limited stock has been an issue.
I’ve seen them compared to S&M in regards to price and design/taste level, hopefully they can grow to that level and fill the niche for European customers. Usually I’m the last guy to suggest this but at their price point I wouldn’t even mind if they dropped the Made in Italy tag to ensure supply and consistency. Then again there is something romantic and exciting about the idea of getting that authentic Neapolitan product, especially when you first enter this world.
For me personally, I have to agree with Simon, the pick stitching is bit too prominent on jackets but I’d be interested to see them get into outerwear, maybe a navy or dark grey double breasted coat could be on the menu…
Nice to see other rungs on the ladder covered and fairly by my read. On quick glance, offerings look very nice and made in Italy at an approachable price point. If I were earlier in my journey, I would be taking harder look. I also see a number of options beyond the mostly grey and blue referenced including browns, tans, checks, etc. albeit some noted as “Coming Soon”.
Curiosity question: With jackets made in Italy and trousers in Portugal, is this the case for suits? If so, is this typical? I had never thought about before, but I would think this would be challenging (ensuring fabric matches, consistent finishing details, etc.).
It isn’t typical Paul, but it isn’t that hard if the cloth is exactly the same (same ‘piece’). Yes that’s the case with suits
Interesting. Yes, the “same piece” element came to mind as a challenge. Perhaps it’s the same maker w multiple locations. Thanks!
I’ve heard the sports coats are on the larger side. Did you find the 48 was comparable to a 50 and similar RTW brands? (Drakes, Cavour etc)
Simon, I have 2 somewhat related questions. First, could you possibly compare a SB Henry Poole with a similar A. Caraceni suit? Second, in your experience with tailoring houses around the world, where else might one find a “Henry Poole” or similar style of fit? Keep up the good work!
So, I haven’t had a Poole SB, but I’d say the major differences are that the Caraceni will be more heavily padded in the shoulder, squarer, while the body will be lighter in structure.
I wouldn’t name an obvious equivalent of Poole
I have a casual suit from Natalino. The fit is quite good; the gorge is a little on the high side but I’m fine with it since I don’t wear it in a business context. I agree with the other commenter who though that the pants are too tapered. The rise is good, the hips are good, but the leg opening is too small. All told it looks good and is great for the price.
Thanks for reviewing a company in the more approachable price point. As someone whose finances don’t match their taste it’s useful.
Natalino is exceptional value and they are doing a service to menswear..well done!
It’s good to see people like Nathan bring new products and energy into menswear, similarly with the likes of AI. These companies are doing great stuff and I look forward to see how they evolve. I hope to see some more articles. Thank you, Simon, for the article.
Thanks for this useful post. I have glanced at natalino.co a couple of times and this article definitely made me want to look again more closely. It seems like it could be good for quality staple sports jackets and maybe trousers.
Judging from comments, many consider Spier & Mackay to be the ‘Natalino’ of the US/Canada. There seems to be reluctance from UK and EU readers to consider them and I’m assuming that’s because of import/export and returns? (I’m in the US, so different calculus.)
The SM Neapolitan cut looks like it has all the design details at a price roughly comparable to Natalino. Of course you give up ‘Made in Naples’. If you go the made-to-order route with SM, you can specify your fit and choose the full canvas option — for $120 (US) extra. Assuming that upgrade is worth the price (seems like it is), what would be a higher priority, construction or strict authenticity?
Or maybe that brand comparison is unfair since they are doing different things?
Hi Simon,
A very informative and interesting piece.
I see no reason why you cannot mix the best bespoke with some nice rtw pieces at all price points if
a) you like them
b) they fit well
c))they can fit in with your existing wardrobe
Next time I’m the vicinity, I’ll definitely pay them a visit
Kindest regards
Stephen
Your discussion on Natalino is timely based on my recent experience. I was visiting London a month ago, went in to the Natalino store and found an excellent summer sportcoat. I needed some minor alterations and the store assistant took all the measurements, telling me their tailor was ‘excellent’. The arms needed shortening about a quarter inch, the waist needed letting out a small amount, and the store assistant suggested some work in the collar area to counter some slight gapping. Since the alterations would take a while, I had the finished article shipped to me back in the US.
The result was surprising to say the least. Both arms showed one and a half inches of shirt sleeve and the collar fix resulted in the jacket buttons and buttonholes to no longer align. Since Natalino had put in working buttonholes on the sleeves as agreed, the jacket was unwearable. The waist was let out correctly.
The owner did refund my money, however it took a while to get anybody’s attention. The owner wanted the jacket returned, but as of this writing has not provided a return label for me to do so. In summary, I found the entire experience and customer service to be thoroughly unsatisfactory. I felt this was worth sharing, especially as it occurred very recently.
Really pleased to see Natalino receive some coverage here.
I’ve bought shirts, jackets and trousers from them over the last two and a half years.
What’s stood out for me is the appealing choice of cloths (e.g. seersucker shirts, summer-weight jackets, covert and cav twill trousers), but also their Japan-made jeans (from Japanese denim) and fatigues (from Japanese ripstop?) are excellent. The cotton drill trousers also see a lot of wear – a heavier weight, smart chino that bridges seasons and situations nicely.
Most of the details you mentions, some of which you dislike, happen to be precisely what I prefer. The price makes in a great alternative to some MTM makers, perhaps for items when I can’t quite justify spending too much for fear of it not getting enough use. A dinner jacket, for example. Do you know of any plans to expand to such products?
I fear the trousers are still a tad too slim to meet, at least at the ankle.
I don’t Hugo, know, but feel free to ask the team
Simon, this seems to me like an Anglo-Italian tribute band. The Belgian shoes and waxed jackets in their styling reinforce that impression. While the name sounds Italian, only half of the garment is actually made there; the rest is just glued together in Italy, which undermines the essence of Italian craftsmanship. It strikes me as cynical ex-finance type stuff.
I don’t think that’s fair Steve. You won’t see the Anglo guys in T-shirts and jeans in the same way, or mixing in more casual influences in the same way. There are significant differences in the quality and things like the original fabric development Anglo do, but I wouldn’t say in the other things.
I don’t think you have any grounds to consider it cynical to be honest, or to criticise for having an Italianised name, given the upper tailoring is made in Naples – very rare at this price.
When they put out a product Anglo-Italian hasn’t I’ll look forward to seeing your point.
They have Steve. They did a Japanese fatigue trouser in rip stop.
Also bear in mind the Natalino range is very small and so is the world of menswear. Most things Anglo do have been done (always in slightly different ways) by many other brands
I mean by this logic, is Anglo Italian a drakes tribute brand? Is drakes a Ralph Lauren tribute brand or a J press or Brooks brothers tribute brand? Many companies have made the things Anglo Italian and Natalino have been making for decades and decades no?
The main thing that differentiates Anglo from other companies, in my opinion, is their color palette. It’s pretty specific to them and not them making a sport jacket or Shetland sweater or trousers or jeans.
As a long time fan and regular customer of Anglo-Italian (thanks to this blog!), which has filled a gap for me after moving on from brands like Suitsupply/Luca Faloni, I’ve always been drawn to that middle ground between accessible tailoring and fully bespoke offerings like Anderson & Sheppard. Unfortunately, my experiences with Natalino have left me disappointed.
I’ve tried Natalino on three or four occasions now and each time walked away feeling unhappy. While the brand’s style often looks great in photos, the reality has been different. I’ve found the fit of most products to be quite poor and, surprisingly, the quality to be below even that of Suitsupply, which is quite unexpected given the price point.
I understand the comparison with Anglo-Italian, as both aim for a relaxed Neapolitan style. However, in my opinion, the two are worlds apart, both in make and service. Natalino’s products felt cheap and lacking, and on each visit, I’ve found the service underwhelming. It reminded me of a high street fashion shop, where the focus is on seemingly arrogant employees looking trendy rather than offering knowledgeable and attentive service. In fact, my wife even remarked how surprised she was that we were in a ‘fashion store’.
I rarely criticise, as everything comes with its own pros and cons, but in my experience, Natalino has fallen short and offers poor value for money. While I am pleased to see lower levels of products on this blog, and often agree with your views Simon, I disagree with this one. In fact, if I were Mr Grantham, I might be offended by the comparison, though I can appreciate why it was made. For me, however, the difference between the two brands is significant, both in the final product and in the overall shopping experience.
Agree. Purchased many things from natalino, quality is poor and we should not need to spend thousands to expect good quality.
trousers are also a bit too fitted
That’s interesting because all 3 things I’ve ever purchased from Anglo Italian have never matched the size chart and I found the quality between both to be comparable. The Natalino jeans I find far better actually. I prefer the fit of my Natalino shirt. The sport jackets I agree, I don’t think it’s debatable, are nicer at Anglo Italian, but they’re like 2.5 times the price so I would expect that.
I totally get the comparisons, but Natalino typically is fuller fitting in general, pants have a higher rise and they use more color.
Anglos color palette is very distinct to them. I like both brands along along with drakes, but Natalino is more comfortably in my price range.
Totally agree with Gonis! My search for the “perfect” (for my body) Japanese selvedge ecru denim ended when I bought a pair from Natalino. The rise is perfect for pairing with tailoring (as well as casual looks), and the fit was perfect for me. I didn’t even have to take them to the tailor. I ordered one size up from my typical based on their size chart, and it was spot on.
As for Anglo, he nails it right on the head; the quality is of course better, but is that fairly small difference worth double? I love anglo-italian so don’t take that as hate, but Natalino delivers exactly what they are intending to deliver; A bit of a compromise in terms of quality compared to the big boys, but at a price point where you don’t really get to complain about it, or compare it to the likes of Anglo or Drakes.
I’m afraid I had no idea what fusing was. Rather than asking here I looked it up and will share just in case I am not alone. Obviously if I have missed things out or even got it completely wrong, do let rip.
‘ Interfacing is a textile used on the unseen or “wrong” side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. It is essential for adding structure to collars, cuffs, waistbands, and other parts of a garment that require support and stability. Interfacing comes in various weights and can be woven, non-woven, or knit.
1. Sew-in Interfacing:
Sew-in interfacing is stitched into place rather than fused with an adhesive. It is preferred for delicate fabrics that may be damaged by the heat or pressure required for fusing. Sew-in interfacing is also used when a softer, more flexible support is desired.
2. Fusible Interfacing:
Fusible interfacing has a resin coating that melts when heat is applied, bonding it to the fabric. It is quick and easy to use.’
Hi Simon,
Do you ever purchase/ wear any RTW items, Shoes, shirts trousers etc or is it only MTM/Bespoke?
I ask, because as I’m a pretty regular size
I’ve purchased some lovely items over the years , everything from suits , jackets
trousers shoes ,and shirts
I’ve also purchased quite a lot of high end bespoke and most of it is very good , but not always , and although on the whole the tailors are mostly happy to make adjustments I find that if you fiddle around with a garment, especially a jacket too much the end result can sometimes disappoint.
Kindest regards
Stephen
Hey Stephen,
Yes I wear mostly RTW, not MTM or bespoke. All my casual clothing obviously, the vast majority of my shoes, some of my shirts, a few coats.
We did do a piece here on what it’s worth having made bespoke. Maybe worth a read if you haven’t seen it already
Simon, do you have any experience with Velasca Milano? I would be interested to see how you think these brands compare as they are both RTW only and fairly new. I personally have started buying more stuff from Velasca over the past year because of similar reasons I would (and do) buy from Natalino; the value is great!
For me, Velasca’s footwear is excellent, and can be had for somewhere between $300 and $450, though I have a couple pairs I got second-hand for far less. I also just received an Abraham Moon Shetland wool sport coat from them as well (the Barga model), and it seems like a comparable to Natalino despite having to go up one size from my Natalino jackets.
I would be extremely interested to see an article similar to this one, for them.
I only really think of them for shoes Trent, to be honest. From what I can see of the tailoring it has a very high gorge though. Why do you think the value is so good for the price?
Personally for me, Velasca (both actually do) makes a jacket that fits off the rack (though in different sizes). It could potentially use a small nip at the waist, but nothing dramatic, meaning I was able to wear it out a few times instead of having to drop it off at the tailor and not see it for 2 weeks after first receiving it.
Also, their materials, and craftsmanship are excellent at the price point; very similar to my Natalino sport coat. I feel the style and fit is very very similar (the gorges appear to be almost identical on both my Velasca and Natalino jackets when compared side by side… both very high which I think suits me well). Also, the armholes are high, the button stance is a good middle-ground, the shoulder construction is aesthetically pleasing, and the lapels are wide without looking too 70’s. Overall, both brands deliver a good balance of classic, yet contemporary, and conservative, yet rakish.
I would put both brands in the same category as Cavour and their Mod 2 fit (minus the spalla camicia shoulder and the gorge which is marginally lower with Cavour), but overall fit and construction seems comparable. And yet, Cavour is 200-400 USD more for a jacket.
There hidden gem is their jeans IMO. They’re made in Japan with Japanese denim and the washes are sublime. They have ecru, light, medium, and raw. I don’t think the jeans can be any better. They’re a far better value than Drakes which would be their closest competitor in jeans.
I find their stuff is good quality without crazy prices. And it looks better in person, often, than in their online pics…
I have two suits from Natalino and agree the shoulders would fit me better if I was less square (the collar seems a little high when moving my arms). Is there a specific cut or something to look for when considering squared shoulders?
Not really, it just depends how they’ve made their block.
This is a nice write-up, and I should echo the appreciation others have expressed for the decision to cover a shop at a more approachable price point.
I have one Natalino jacket (a tweed from last year’s F/W collection), which I do like quite a bit. It fits pretty well after only modest alterations, and I generally like the casual styling.
For me, Natalino’s real selling point is the level of taste, particularly in the jacketings. They seem to consistently have seasonal fabrics that are interesting while still being relatively restrained. I also admire the taste displayed in the trouser line up — again, plenty of nice seasonal fabrics in versatile shades. But the high-rise cut just doesn’t work for me.
As for the style, I suppose I agree on the pick stitching. My bigger concern is with the width of the lapel, which is 4 inches on my size 46 jacket. I’m sure it wouldn’t be an issue on a larger jacket, but it tends to overwhelm my frame. I think the jacket would look so much better with a 3.5 inch lapel — still relatively wide, but in a more classic proportion to the rest of the jacket.
I find canvassing very interesting. I wonder whether there was a time when only full canvassing was available for men? Even in the market towns and shires of England?
Also, when you talk about half canvas v full canvas , what about the material used in the canvassing? Does horse hair ever feature in RTW? What does Anglo Italian use for canvas?
I understand horsehair is essential for that flexibility and the springiness that bespoke Savile Row has. So what would lesser but very good suits use?
I can do something on it at some point. Yes, everything used to be fully canvassed but that wasn’t a big deal – it basically just meant a little more cloth. Fusing came in later.
Would you say, sometime in the 1970’s? I assume we are talking floating canvas?
talking about a little more cloth, I believe this trend for untucked shirts is a result of makers wanting to cut costs. But they have to hide that behind ‘fashion’.
Yes, floating. I don’t know on dates I’m afraid though
Had a good experience with Natalino and would highly recommend them. Nathan also seems to be a nice guy. I believe their strength lies on their taste, which is definitely not the norm at this price point. Quite like the roll on their 3-roll-2 jackets. Also enjoy some of their other offerings like the rip stop fatigues.
I think their main competition is Cavour and not Hackett (a very mixed bag) or Boggi (very bad styles, generally). Cavour seems to be quite popular with people shopping for office wear, which differs a bit from Natalino’s more casual Neapolitan approach. This is not a dig at Cavour at all — visited their shop in Oslo and think they do have some very appealing products.
Maybe Berg & Berg (on sale) could also be a competitor.
SuitSupply is a competitor to some extent, but I would say people that are more into menswear would very much favor Natalino, while people that care less about it and have just done the most superficial research on where to shop for a suit would mostly go for SuSu — bigger range, multiple stores, etc. Certainly a step down from Natalino in terms of taste.
Seen some people here commenting on how the store feels a bit like a high street fashion shop. I had a different experience with Nathan’s attention, although I did wish for the music to be a bit on the calmer side — the electronic music can feel a bit tiring after a few minutes.
I understand price is less of a consideration on PS coverage, which I respect, but it is top priority for most customers. Personally think having good shops like Natalino at more accessible price points is very important for the whole tailoring scene, including the traditional and much more expensive shops. People have been shying away from tailoring as the world becomes more and more casual, and frankly the much more prohibitive price point for most established traditional quality tailoring shops is not going to make many new friends outside niche hobbyists. Quality entry-level products are important to get people who could be bespoke customers in the future into menswear. This is not to say Natalino is simply a stepping stone — think they can quite stand on their own, although obviously there is nicer and more expensive stuff out there, but that is almost always the case. Also think the more sensible price point can make the purchase of an item unlikely to get a lot of wear much more appealing.
Wish them well.
Hi Simon and PS folks. On the topic of cheaper MtM suiting, I am looking for opinions on my dilemma. I have a budget of around $2000aud / £1000 for my next work suit.
Two options –
1. there is a three piece navy second hand option that is Savile row made and relatively modern, and the measurements are workable with some alterations.
Second is to have a reputable MtM service that will likely nail the fit but the cloth/quality will obviously be substantially lower. But I’ll have all the choices as to specifics too.
Budget would likely be the same either way.
What would you do? Why?
Cheers!
I’d do the MTM I think, unless the bespoke was a very good fit on you. I’d put fit top of the list of priorities, tempting as it is to get a bespoke piece
Thanks Simon. My fate was sealed as the second hand sold anyhow!
Hi CharlesW
I have to go with Simon and go for the MTM option
I commented a day or so ago that to fiddle about with alterations on bespoke clothing, especially jackets the results can sometimes disappoint.
If you’re a pretty regular size, definitely MTM, but don’t rush in , research and do some homework
Kindest regards
Stephen
Thanks Stephen. I agree.
Are there any issues with your site Simon?
I can’t seem to click into the Shop and the latest article for some reason…
Not sure if it’s only me?
No, we are having some issues, they should be corrected soon. For the shop at least, you can enter the URL and it works OK – shop.permanentstyle.com
Correct me if I’m wrong: it’s harder to find such variety of double-breasted jackets as odd option in suitsupply. I think that makes up a point for looking at natalino( at such price level).
Also, the sizing at natalino is much more friendly for someone like me who could only do 44 and 28 for RTW; cavour just never offers such size and it’s almost like one could only shop at suitsupply for said sizing.
I’ve just picked up a guncheck sports jacket, which I’m pleased with. The cuffs come unfinished with a set of buttons ready to sew on. My tailor has just asked me if I wish to have them attached or if I would like working buttonholes added. The price differential is negligible in the scheme of things, so I’ve opted for them. However, on reflection, is there any real benefit? I won’t leave them open, and I rarely fold back the cuff a-la-Bryceland. Fixing the buttonholes will make future alterations more tricky. (This reminds me also of a bespoke suit I had made a few years back, where I opted not to have working buttonholes for similar reasons). So, in a long-winded way, my question is: is there any benefit to having working buttonholes? Thanks.
There isn’t really, but then there aren’t benefits to lots of things, and it does look nice.
I’d go for buttonholes, but maybe leave the top one uncut – tailors often do this so the jacket can be extended later. You can just unsew the buttonhole and the fabric is unaffected underneath
Nice article as I was just on the cusp of buying navy hopsack blazer from Natalino + a pair of grey flannel trousers..
Re jacket and comparisons. The frustration I have with the tiering vs Anglo-Italian is not so much the construction of each, but rather their respective style. Natalino’s jackets are different to those from AI, with the latter style being more slouchy/baggy. It is just a different product to me – even if both were at the same price point, I would gravitate towards the style I like (Natalino), rather than fusing construction (as an example). On this note, can you (or other readers seeing this) think of RTW alternatives to Natalino that have similar style but higher end finish? Thom Sweeney maybe or is that way off?
Re trousers.. Rethinking that high rise again.. Agree, I don’t like my look in those without a jacket on and that is 90% of the time how I wear those around the office. Mid rise alternative may be a better option.
Thom Sweeney would be rather different yes
Thank for this review, as always, Simon. I would second MBB355 comment, it would be great to hear your thoughts on specific items of their fall collection. I recently purchased a grey gun club jacket, my first from Natalino, and I am generally pleased with its quality. I am solid Size 50 across the board and the fit didn’t disappoint while the color choice is quite distinct and interesting. I have previously bought their overshirt and I was less pleased with its price/quality ratio but it’s still good and I enjoy wearing it. Separately, I have been less pleased with trousers. The high-rise is quite limited or simply I am just not used to such a rise yet having been ‘raised’ on slim/low rise trousers that dominated the scene for so long. So, I would really appreciate recommendations you may have for similarly priced brands that offer mid-rise trousers for a good quality/price ratio considering that you also favor mid-rise. Thanks, and keep the good work going!
Thanks Alex, definitely, will do
Simon, if I may follow up on a question raised earlier here, did you find the 48 fits you better than a 50? We share the same height and build so wondering why you considered one above the other.
Yes I did, I found it came up a little big and a 48 fit me better (despite being a 50 most places)
Thank you!
Simon, may I ask, how would you compare a jacket I’d get at Natalino vs one at 40 colori, which for not that much more I could get made to my measurements?
I don’t know much about the 40 Colori jackets in terms of make, but the style is much less traditional – slim lapels, high notch etc. The Natalino is much more a traditional style and a Neapolitan one
My go to travel jacket is from 40 colori and I’ve found the make to be great and it’s been worn and thrown a lot.
Not top end, but I’ve had a lot less issue than with other Italian makes.