The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

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Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. 

And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger readers are asking about. They want good quality, but also a focus on style. They may well move to bespoke later in life, but right now MTM is their best option. 

Still, the MTM companies featured here are not cheap. They’re all over £1500, many over £2000. Personally, I think this is what someone that regularly buys PS-recommended products should be looking at. There’s much more to be gained from investing in good tailoring (and shoes) than there is knitwear, shirts or jeans. 

These, then, are the 17 makers I have reviewed, or are in the process of commissioning with. Plus a list of MTM trouser makers. 

All are linked to the original coverage on Permanent Style, where you can go for more detail. I will endeavour to keep this list up to date every year or two - please do remind me if I forget. 

 

Saman Amel

Probably the two strongest experiences I’ve had with made-to-measure tailoring are Saman Amel from Stockholm and Jean-Manuel Moreau from Paris. Both produced excellent fitting pieces for me, through trunk shows in London. 

Both also offer a quality level that has a large amount of functional handwork in it - such as a hand-padded chest - which brings it closer to the level of bespoke. It’s not bespoke of course, in ways of both fit and make, but it’s a step change on other MTM. 

This is only the case with Saman Amel’s top line, the ‘Napoli’ level, but the lower Toscana line has the same strong fit. The only thing I’d like to change (but can’t on their style) about the jacket is the height of the notch, which feels a little fashion-y in how high it is. 

My experience with Saman and Dag has been a little mixed in other areas, but my experience of the tailoring was very strong. 

 

Jean-Manuel Moreau

Adding to my general points above on Jean-Manuel and his team in Paris, they have their tailoring made by the Orazio Luciano workshop in Naples - but to Jean-Manuel’s own style and pattern. 

So while the make and quality is the same as Orazio, the style is for a slightly more classic, longer and more comfortable jacket, compared to the close-fitting Orazio jacket I have - and cover in this article further down. 

The cream-linen suit JMM made me was lovely, and I wear both trousers and jacket separately often in the summer, as well as the suit occasionally all together. 

 

Eduardo de Simone

Eduardo de Simone runs a suit factory in Naples. He makes for other brands, mostly, but also offers his own tailoring under the name Edesim. Plus he has a small bespoke workshop, used for himself, friends and visitors. 

He made me two jackets, one bespoke and one MTM, as he was interested in talking about and comparing the differences. You can see the article doing that here. The MTM service itself was good, if not clearly better than others around the same make and price. 

Eduardo is also one of the harder brands here to use, as he travels less. Still, if you like the style, he is still someone I’d recommend. 

 

Kiton

Kiton made me a made-to-measure suit through their programme at Harrod’s back in 2014. It was the top line or ‘Lasa’ service. 

The overall experience was not that great, particularly given the price, and I think it shows the price inflation that happens with bigger designer brands. Three different people conducted the measuring, first and second fitting, which caused some confusion. And the overall fit was good without being outstanding. For over £4000, it should be better really. 

This level of make had a hand-padded chest, though not collar. This sets it above most of the Kiton MTM, which doesn’t not have any hand padding, but is made the same way as the RTW product - hand cut and with hand buttonholes etc, but using pre-made canvases. More on that in my factory visit piece here

 

P Johnson

P Johnson is perhaps remembered unfairly by regular readers of Permanent Style. The jacket and trousers the team made me were both a good fit. The issues were with disclosure of where things were made, and readers’ reaction to that. 

The jacket was good, and I still like the P Johnson attitude - less the more casual pieces they’ve been doing recently, but certainly the relaxed approach to tailoring, and colour combinations. 

The only issue with the jacket was some parts of the style, like a higher buttoning point and small, bellied lapel. But if you try a jacket and like this style, I can still only recommend it, based on my experience. They also have more stores and therefore are easier to access than many of the brands mentioned here. 

 

Anglo-Italian

  • Jackets from £1490 in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200. Suits in the same levels from £1760 to £2100. Trousers are £450.
  • Background article
  • Review article

My Anglo-Italian MTM jacket was a solid product - without the extra handwork of some brands, but a firm basis for the biggest reason I like what Anglo-Italian are doing, which is their style. 

The green checked jacket I had made was distinctive in its Anglo colouring, all murky and subtle. And that for me made it feel much more contemporary than similar jackets or materials (Anglo also develop, and sell, their own cloth). 

One thing that is less obvious though, or expected, is that the cut of the Anglo MTM product is quite different, with a low buttoning point, roomy fit and good amount of low drape. It can be quite flattering, and is certainly comfortable. But it’s something that does need to be considered alongside other aspects of the style. 

 

The Armoury

The Armoury made me a very nice suit as part of their ‘100 Series’. It was beautifully fitted and beautifully made - though again, without the hand padding or similar of Saman Amel or JMM mentioned at top. 

However, the suit was interesting for how well it was finished, and the feel despite that lack. This is largely down to the fact that this series from The Armoury uses the excellent Sant’Andrea workshop in Italy. The downside is that this makes it rather expensive. 

 

Massura

  • Made to measure suits starting at €1600, bespoke at €2500
  • Full review

Massura is a German brand run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but is worth highlighting because of the lack of German makers (Moritz serves Cologne and Dusseldorf as well as Munich, Zurich and London) and the price - handmade made-to-measure starts at €1600.

Moritz made me a green tweed jacket in a lovely cloth from Abraham Moon. The result was good in many respects, but there were substantial issues with the balance and shoulders at the back of the jacket. Part of this might have been due to doing some fittings remotely, though we did also do one in person.

Moritz has promised to correct the issues when we get a chance to see other in person next, and I will report back then - as well as update this listing.

 

Edward Sexton

Bespoke tailor Edward Sexton also offers an 'offshore bespoke' system, where the patterns are cut in London but most of the making is done in a Chinese workshop. I've included it under MTM because although the cutting is by hand, the chest and collar are not hand padded, so the making level is significantly different to the full bespoke service.

The team made me a brown-linen double-breasted suit, similar in style to the grey-flannel DB I already had from them that was fully bespoke. It was a good fit, though not quite at the same level as the full bespoke. The make in the chest is also pretty solid, and you feel that.

I wouldn't say the result is comparable to Sexton's full bespoke - unlike, for example, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - but it is a solid way for people that like the Edward Sexton style to get a well-fitted suit in that cut. 

 

Orazio Luciano

Orazio made me a pink corduroy jacket, which was a decent fit, albeit with some issues. From the start, it was fitted quite closely, and with the slightly shorter cut that Orazio himself favours and has always worn. 

It’s important to separate these two things. We did have some pure issues of fit, mostly in the back and the sleeve length. But other things are more a question of house style - and readers should consider whether these work for them, rather than considering them faults. 

Orazio do also hand pad the chest and lapels of their jackets, which puts them above most other makers here in that respect. And that’s reflected to an extent in the price. Although it’s worth noting that the hand finishing is better on something like the Armoury suit mentioned above. Neapolitan make is rarely that fine.

 

Stile Latino

Stile Latino is the Neapolitan brand run by Vincenzo Attolini, who split from the better-known Attolini to start his own, rather brighter and more experimental brand. 

Stile Latino is really a RTW company, and MTM is not offered that widely. The tailoring is also not something that aims to compete with formal bespoke, or be any kind of substitute for it - unlike many of the brands here. 

But having said that, if you like the brand’s style, the MTM they made for me was good. And not many places do this type of completely unstructured jacket with an MTM service. 

 

Gieves & Hawkes

  • Suits from £1495 (lowest quality level, price at time of commission)
  • Review article

This famous Savile Row name has been through a few different permutations in the past 10 years, and changed its tailoring supplier multiple times too. It never seems to be able to decide whether its RTW and MTM should be closer to the Row, or to Regent Street. 

I reviewed the service in 2014, even though the suit was made for my brother-in-law. I was present for every appointment and saw the suit in action, so felt able to still write a review. 

The suit was good for basic made to measure, but no more than that. It successfully gave him a fit that would have been impossible off the rack, but otherwise was the same quality level as their fairly low-level RTW. 

 

Henry Herbert and Hemingway Tailors

In the early years of writing Permanent Style, I covered some cheaper services that I probably wouldn’t use today. One of those was Henry Herbert, a visiting service that I couldn’t really recommend - the lack of tailoring experience seeming to be the biggest issue. 

And the other was Hemingway Tailors, run by Toby Luper, who had his suits made at the Cheshire Bespoke factory. Toby’s suits were well made and a decent fit, but I wouldn’t recommend them today for the price point. 

Jake Mueser, Drake’s and William Crabtree

This is more a holding note that anything else. I am in the process of making a jacket with Jake Mueser, and plan to cover the service at Drake’s, given how many readers ask about it - though I think it’s far to say they are aiming to offer a solid MTO option on their RTW tailoring today, rather than a MTM offering that will compete with full tailors. 

I am also in the process of making a suit with William Crabtree, the brand recently set up by agent James Priestley. I covered his MTM chore suit in a previous article here, but haven't included it in this list as it's not tailoring. When I have tried the tailoring, I'll add it in. 

If you’re interested in made-to-measure trousers, the makers we’ve covered are:

Please note, all prices include VAT and are correct at the time of commission - some may have risen since then. Please check dates of the original coverage. 

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Kevin

Good morning, I understand this is not the place for such enquiries and thus regret needing to post here, yet I would be grateful if someone could clarify the status of order #PS10058. I haven’t received any reply from the [email protected] address since 21 June, despite follow up messages. All previous orders have been handled with utmost professionalism; so I wonder if there is an issue with this particular order. Thank you and kind regards.

AK

Simon, you’ve worked with such a wide variety of makers across the world – how have you dealt with the language barrier? I recently had my first bespoke piece made and I’m interested in continuing a relationship with this tailor, but we don’t speak a single word in common beyond numbers and “inch.” The jacket came out extremely well, only needed a few tweaks at the end to get just right, but I know if I’m looking to him for my business wardrobe it’s going to be more complicated to discuss.

Sam

For anyone thinking that Kiton jacket looked like bad value for £4k in 2014, they are now regularly into £7k for the RTW jackets alone (trousers not included) on Mr Porter. Pretty incredible, but you have to assume there is a market for it.

MD

Hi Simon,
‘My experience with Saman and Dag has been a little mixed in other areas, but my experience of the tailoring was very strong.’
May I ask what these other areas were?
Thanks as always for the great article.

Kev F

This is, as ever a very useful and informative list, Simon. My impressions are that MTM is a relative minefield as it encompasses a large range of standards and services. I would ask if you could enlarge a bit on your description of Anglo-Italian; having some items from them I am contemplating them for a jacket later this year. It was your concluding remark about roominess/drape needing to be considered “alongside other aspects” that I was unsure about. Many thanks.

Kev F

I did originally but you have prompted me to revisit it where presumably my questions will be answered.

BC

How about Cesare Attolini?

Thishana Manchanayake

This is one of the best articles you have put out Simon. Incredibly useful to have everything in one place with prices. Thank you very much!

David Craggs

I think you are right to say that readers are looking for well made MTM but wrong to categorise it as a desire of the “young”. Personally I think it is a trend across the board.
People who love tailoring will always want to wear it at every opportunity but the number of opportunities are fast diminishing and this isn’t purely a function of COVID. It’s about lifestyle.
As a long-standing bespoke customer I can no longer justify bespoke on a cost per wear basis. It’s like having a Ferrari on the drive that you only use once a month.
I know this will provoke commentary from the ‘I’ll waste my money how I want’ crowd but I just don’t like wasting money on anything and given that I want nice tailoring, in a good cloth that fits, MTM hits the sweet spot.
Then it comes down to style and from all that you’ve reviewed, the one that floats my boat is Anglo-Italian. I bought a births, deaths and marriages suit from them not so long ago and I love it. Their house style has great drape, their cloths are really interesting and their service was impeccable.
Of course, some aspects of MTM will never match bespoke but good MTM comes perilously close and I’m quite sure that 90% of household bears won’t notice the difference.
Personally I doubt that MTM customers will ever migrate to bespoke whilst I’m quite sure that the reverse migration is already happening big time.
In some ways this is sad but bespoke has always been driven by formal work and social dress codes and when those codes no longer exist it is bound to have a huge knock on effect and not just for the young !

Anon

Interesting comment, thanks for sharing your rationale for not going bespoke any more.

I think you may find there are a few of us not in the ‘I’ll waste my money how I want’ crowd…

JJ

Hi Simon, i assume that the prices listed do not include the cost of the cloth [with the exception of AI]? With many cloths costing circa £200 p/m this can add a far amount to the final price.

JJ

The cloth offering must therefor be limited? The price of clothes varies so much i don’t see how they could factor it into a business model?

A.

Hello Simon
Interesting topic like always!
I had some MTM pieces made in the past and the results ranged from very good to basically unwearable.
You pointed out that they are not exactly cheap either, which I do agree with. I have therefor changed my strategy and visit a good city tailor like MacAngus & Wainwright for example
to commission what I would otherwise had ordered as a MTM jacked or trouser. The prices are roughly the same prize, but you get a full bespoke service.
Would be interesting to hear how you think the two options compare.
Best
A.

S Pedzik

I have a couple dozen suits and wear them daily for work however find that some still have not received the attention they probably deserve (for a number of reasons). Having such a large collection yourself do you find the same?

OTAVIO DA SILVA

Great article, Simon!. Could you name the top 3 best value tailors, from the ones you mentioned? I know it may be very personal, but I am interested in your thoughts. From what you wrote, I would say JMM, Eduardo de Simone and Saman Amel. What do you think?
Thank you

Tony Hodges

Can I ask a similar question another way? You pretty clearly thought Kiton disappointing for the price. Were there others in that category?

And closer to the previous question: were there some that you were pleasantly surprised at the quality, given the price?

The P Johnson comes in pretty cheap, for instance, but it seems like maybe they punched above their price on make quality?

Tony Hodges

I agree entirely on that last point.

Separately but relatedly, I think one of the reasons there’s a recurrent theme on the blog about ‘but is it value for money’ is in large part because few people have the chance to experience so many suits as you, and are thus anxious about being disappointed in their much rarer purchases.

It’s a more answerable version of ‘will I be disappointed?’, which is clearly unknowable.

Graham

The link for the Luxire trousers doesnt work.

Riccardo Franchi

My understanding is that for reasons involving lawyers, that article is no longer on the site. If you look however, the article is still available on some of the various internet archival sources such as the Wayback Machine.

Robert M

Wow, how disappointing… I do enjoy their trouser offering, but information like this makes me think whether I want to support a business like this…

Ali

Hey Simon,
currently having a purple label Ralph Lauren mtm being made. I’ve had the first entry level polo mtm and I have to say it’s pretty decent. I wanted to know your thoughts on it if you have experienced it.

Richard W

Hi Simon,
An interesting and useful list of MTM options.
Although Gieves is the only tailor you mention that I have used (circa 2005) it did make me reflect back to my own journey in trying different MTM options. Personally I found that I not only ended up with a well made and good fitting suit from the majority of tailors tried (3 out of 4) I also learnt a huge amount about what worked for my body shape and what styling points I wanted from a suit.
There are some great MTM options out there. If someone isn’t ready to make the step to bespoke then MTM is such a better option than big brand (usually) overpriced RTW. You not only get the suit but also the value of a tailor willing to spend the time understanding your needs and working with you to achieve the best fit possible.

Chris Lee

Without wishing to blow smoke, as my son would say, you have become a man with no little influence on tailoring in this country. Should the lack of Savile Row names on this list be a cause for concern or does it simply reflect the difference between MTM and bespoke? I ask as someone who sees MTM to bespoke as a natural progression when you learn what you really want from clothing and perhaps recognise that is only going to be realised with bespoke tailoring.

Will

I hope this is contributing enough to the discussion merely to say that the Anglo Italian outfit is absolutely nailed on you Simon – it catches my eye every time I see it (it has the tonality of a 60’s Bond film) and I could quite happily buy that whole outfit and stop shopping for the rest of the year (which I’d almost certainly have to).

hayes

Great article Simon, very interested to hear your thoughts on Drakes MTM. Any chance of looking at Ring Jacket MTM via the Armoury, and Sartoria Carrara (No Man Walks Alone) in the future?

Alexander

Dear Simon! You mentioned that we gain more from investing in tailoring and in shoes than from shirts. I think I know what you mean, but would you agree that from a style point of view (which is obviously also very important to you) investing in a shirt with a collar style that works with and without a tie and maybe some functional hand work (in the 200€ range) is still a good idea and not pure luxury? Investing in those shirts will become even more intelligent as the tie becomes less relevant every year. Would you agree?

Peter Hall

Having diligently saved during COVID,I thought long about investing in tailoring but settled on shirts at exactly that price point .

Steven

Hi Simon, the luxire link isn’t working. On that, have you any plans to try online MTM brands? I’d be interested on what you think about oliver wicks etc.

Alex

Hi Simon,
Have you ever considered Mason and Sons?
I’ve bought some RTW items from them and am considering their MTM options for a couple of suits. Be interested to know your view or experience of them if you’ve used them before. Thanks

Steve

Hi Simon

Amazing article as always.

Some feedback I would give would be to try some tailors scattered around the UK but not necessarily in London.

The Savile Row and London tailoring market is very saturated with most companies using the same workshops and just adjusting the block/models supplied to them.

Have a branch out to Hertfordshire and Cambridge etc. I think the value for money in these places is much higher as most customers in London are mainly paying the establishments rent as opposed the the final price reflecting cloth and quality.

I do appreciate that the London based firms are spending more on social media and imagery so they are probably more desirable at first glance than the ‘suburban’ tailors.

Thanks
Steve

Edric

Hi Simon,

If you had to pick one, would you go to: 1) a “cheaper” true bespoke tailor with superior fit, a house style that you’re just about okay with, but not so fine finishing; or 2) a slightly more expensive MTM service, with a style you absolutely love and finer finishing, all with a good fit (but still less than the bespoke one). All other things like convenience, accessibility, quality of service, etc. being equal.
I seem to recall you saying you would always go bespoke when given the option, I wonder if that changed considering your vast experience with different MTM services.

Edric

Thanks for your reply Simon, it gave me a lot to think about. I used to think it was bespoke over everything else but now it dosnt seem that much of an absolute rule haha.

Edric

Hi Simon,

What if the choice was between the “cheaper” bespoke, as above-described, and quality ready to wear (think Ring Jacket, or RL Purple Label), again, in a style than you love, and a good (but less than bespoke) fit can be achieved with very minor alterations?

I’m not trying to push your buttons here, nor am I trying to provoke you into changing your answer, I just want to know how much value “design” or “style” has over everything else. I’ve re read your recent RL article on design several times, and while I acknowledge its value, I’m still trying to gauge where it sits on the scale of priorities.

Thanks.

Edric

Thanks Simon! Your guidance is appreciated as always

Philip

Thanks again for another great article.
I’ve learned a lot from what others post here about their experiences, so in that spirit I’d like to share mine with Saman Amiel. I was keen to try them as I liked their aesthetic a lot. I enjoyed going to their showroom and talking to them and ordered a pair of cord trousers from (expensive) Loro Piana cloth. Unfortunately when they eventually came the fit was way off with terrible pocket flare. When I pointed this out they agreed to remake them though I’m not sure they would have offered if I hadn’t pointed out my concerns. These were a bit better but still with significant pocket flare. They were posted directly to me and I couldn’t make their next visit to see if anything else could be done – then COVID happened and I gave it up as a bad job. It was a lesson though that MTM isn’t necessarily cheaper – these were about twice the price of similar trousers from Graham Browne that fit perfectly. And a further lesson in that issues with visiting outfits can take a long time to resolve, if ever.

Carl

I am a regular Saman Amel customer and very satsified with them. Sorry to hear about your troubles. All of my items from them has not been perfect at first but they have always fixed them. I am course privilegied to live in Stockholm were they are based. My best MTM experience was probably Cesare Attolini but its maybe 5% better tham Saman Amel at a 50% higher price. I would also agree that Graham Browne is good value for tailored trousers (were style isnt as important as in jackets).

Anon

Hi Simon,

Thanks for this extremely helpful archive.

Do you have any plans to try out Atelier de Luca, the MTM arm of Camps de Luca?

Gaurang

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the great write up. For American customers who do not visit Europe regularly, would you recommend the Armoury based on convenience? Or are there alternative MTM providers? I live in Chicago but can reasonably go to NYC.

Thanks,

Gaurang

Sven

Great article! I’m myself a great fan of Jean Moreau and I’m grateful that I discovered him via PS. However, it’s a bit curious to see that you leave out Cesare Attolini in your reviews. I’m very curious to read your thoughts about it as I know some very serious people that own bespoke suits (from the usual suspects) but still consider Attolini a better made suit with more handwork than many others. I own several suits myself and love especially the fabrics but I prefer JM for less than half of the price.

Vincent B

Hi Simon,
Thank you for your excellent article. I am looking to get a tailor-made jacket in tweed and was looking at Norton & Sons on Saville Row (as they seem to carry a lot of English and Scottish tweed). I can’t find a review from you and was wondering if you had any views (or alternative recommendations). I am looking to spend between £1,200 and £1,500.
Many thanks, Vincent

Shoddy

I’m not tried them but having walked past i wonder whether Walker slater in covent garden might work I have a feeling they do bespoke although the website only mentions MTM https://www.walkerslater.com/made-to-measure

Shoddy

Yes. I only meant that they look like tweed specialists. Possibly worth a look if passing

Dave Fraser

Great site. Most of the clothing is beyond my financial reach, but it is still fun to look.

Varun Saxena

What in you opinion should be the position of the lapel on a jacket or a coat? Be it a peak or a notch lapel on either a single breast or a DB jacket.

Varun Saxena

Thanks Simon. This I am sure will be very helpful.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Thanks Simon. I am 5 feet 7 inches . So I guess I could try it out. Most of my jackets have the gorge in line with my shoulders, but I guess with a notch lapel I could try it out first.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Hi Simon
This is an excellent article. It works well for me from two standpoints. Firstly, the indicative cost is really helpful and secondly one gets to see style variations.
However, I may have suggestion based on my assumption that you have not reviewed a classic bandhgala suite. The easiest way to put it is that is a suite with a Chinese collar. Perhaps a lot more. It’s quite a favourite here in India. A formal, modern yet a traditional way to dress up. Perhaps you could do a write up on it. For reference, you could look at “ Canali Nawab Collection”.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Yeah, it’s the Nehru jacket. I like the one from Prologue. Don’t have one. Truth be told, here in India, we miss quit a lot of things that could make our wardrobe multi faceted because of the high temperatures most of the months. Cotton and linens are our best friends. Winters seem to be only for a month or two.
An jacket like the one mentioned by you or an over shirt, however, could be a good investment for months like November here. Thanks for responding so soon. Will keep asking more.
Regards

Varun Saxena

I see. Wanted to visit Singapore and Hong Kong, sadly, Covid hit us badly.
Have you ever reviewed BnTailors? They have some tie ups in Singapore but would love to visit the original makers in South Korea.
Regards.

J.

Hi Simon,

You have previously reviewed Prologue as a “semi-bespoke” service. Would you consider their make to be better than the best MTM on this list in that case?

Liam Colbeck

Hi Simon,
The general price Of MTM here is very comparable to the classic Bespoke option at Whitcombe and Shaftesbury. Is there any benefit in choosing any MTM over this classic bespoke? Do you feel it would be better to go with Saman Amel, for example, if you wanted a more casual jacket?
Many thanks,

Nico

Wasn’t Shibumi playing in this league too Simon?

Marc Jones

Simon, this is immensely insightful. Do you have any experience of Ede & Ravenscroft MTM? I’ve always thought they were massively underrated both in MTM and bespoke shirt making.