The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

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*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser*

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. 

And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger readers are asking about. They want good quality, but also a focus on style. They may well move to bespoke later in life, but right now MTM is their best option. 

Still, the MTM companies featured here are not cheap. They’re all over £1500, many over £2000. Personally, I think this is what someone that regularly buys PS-recommended products should be looking at. There’s much more to be gained from investing in good tailoring (and shoes) than there is knitwear, shirts or jeans. 

These, then, are the 17 makers I have reviewed, or are in the process of commissioning with. Plus a list of MTM trouser makers. 

All are linked to the original coverage on Permanent Style, where you can go for more detail. I will endeavour to keep this list up to date every year or two - please do remind me if I forget. 

 

Saman Amel

Probably the two strongest experiences I’ve had with made-to-measure tailoring are Saman Amel from Stockholm and Jean-Manuel Moreau from Paris. Both produced excellent fitting pieces for me, through trunk shows in London. 

Both also offer a quality level that has a large amount of functional handwork in it - such as a hand-padded chest - which brings it closer to the level of bespoke. It’s not bespoke of course, in ways of both fit and make, but it’s a step change on other MTM. 

This is only the case with Saman Amel’s top line, the ‘Napoli’ level, but the lower Toscana line has the same strong fit. The only thing I’d like to change (but can’t on their style) about the jacket is the height of the notch, which feels a little fashion-y in how high it is. 

My experience with Saman and Dag has been a little mixed in other areas, but my experience of the tailoring was very strong. 

 

Jean-Manuel Moreau

Adding to my general points above on Jean-Manuel and his team in Paris, they have their tailoring made by the Orazio Luciano workshop in Naples - but to Jean-Manuel’s own style and pattern. 

So while the make and quality is the same as Orazio, the style is for a slightly more classic, longer and more comfortable jacket, compared to the close-fitting Orazio jacket I have - and cover in this article further down. 

The cream-linen suit JMM made me was lovely, and I wear both trousers and jacket separately often in the summer, as well as the suit occasionally all together. 

 

Eduardo de Simone

Eduardo de Simone runs a suit factory in Naples. He makes for other brands, mostly, but also offers his own tailoring under the name Edesim. Plus he has a small bespoke workshop, used for himself, friends and visitors. 

He made me two jackets, one bespoke and one MTM, as he was interested in talking about and comparing the differences. You can see the article doing that here. The MTM service itself was good, if not clearly better than others around the same make and price. 

Eduardo is also one of the harder brands here to use, as he travels less. Still, if you like the style, he is still someone I’d recommend. 

 

Kiton

Kiton made me a made-to-measure suit through their programme at Harrod’s back in 2014. It was the top line or ‘Lasa’ service. 

The overall experience was not that great, particularly given the price, and I think it shows the price inflation that happens with bigger designer brands. Three different people conducted the measuring, first and second fitting, which caused some confusion. And the overall fit was good without being outstanding. For over £4000, it should be better really. 

This level of make had a hand-padded chest, though not collar. This sets it above most of the Kiton MTM, which doesn’t not have any hand padding, but is made the same way as the RTW product - hand cut and with hand buttonholes etc, but using pre-made canvases. More on that in my factory visit piece here

 

P Johnson

P Johnson is perhaps remembered unfairly by regular readers of Permanent Style. The jacket and trousers the team made me were both a good fit. The issues were with disclosure of where things were made, and readers’ reaction to that. 

The jacket was good, and I still like the P Johnson attitude - less the more casual pieces they’ve been doing recently, but certainly the relaxed approach to tailoring, and colour combinations. 

The only issue with the jacket was some parts of the style, like a higher buttoning point and small, bellied lapel. But if you try a jacket and like this style, I can still only recommend it, based on my experience. They also have more stores and therefore are easier to access than many of the brands mentioned here. 

 

Anglo-Italian

  • Jackets from £1490 in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200. Suits in the same levels from £1760 to £2100. Trousers are £450.
  • Background article
  • Review article

My Anglo-Italian MTM jacket was a solid product - without the extra handwork of some brands, but a firm basis for the biggest reason I like what Anglo-Italian are doing, which is their style. 

The green checked jacket I had made was distinctive in its Anglo colouring, all murky and subtle. And that for me made it feel much more contemporary than similar jackets or materials (Anglo also develop, and sell, their own cloth). 

One thing that is less obvious though, or expected, is that the cut of the Anglo MTM product is quite different, with a low buttoning point, roomy fit and good amount of low drape. It can be quite flattering, and is certainly comfortable. But it’s something that does need to be considered alongside other aspects of the style. 

 

The Armoury

The Armoury made me a very nice suit as part of their ‘100 Series’. It was beautifully fitted and beautifully made - though again, without the hand padding or similar of Saman Amel or JMM mentioned at top. 

However, the suit was interesting for how well it was finished, and the feel despite that lack. This is largely down to the fact that this series from The Armoury uses the excellent Sant’Andrea workshop in Italy. The downside is that this makes it rather expensive. 

 

Massura

  • Made to measure suits starting at €1600, bespoke at €2500
  • Full review

Massura is a German brand run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but is worth highlighting because of the lack of German makers (Moritz serves Cologne and Dusseldorf as well as Munich, Zurich and London) and the price - handmade made-to-measure starts at €1600.

Moritz made me a green tweed jacket in a lovely cloth from Abraham Moon. The result was good in many respects, but there were substantial issues with the balance and shoulders at the back of the jacket. Part of this might have been due to doing some fittings remotely, though we did also do one in person.

Moritz has promised to correct the issues when we get a chance to see other in person next, and I will report back then - as well as update this listing.

 

Edward Sexton

Bespoke tailor Edward Sexton also offers an 'offshore bespoke' system, where the patterns are cut in London but most of the making is done in a Chinese workshop. I've included it under MTM because although the cutting is by hand, the chest and collar are not hand padded, so the making level is significantly different to the full bespoke service.

The team made me a brown-linen double-breasted suit, similar in style to the grey-flannel DB I already had from them that was fully bespoke. It was a good fit, though not quite at the same level as the full bespoke. The make in the chest is also pretty solid, and you feel that.

I wouldn't say the result is comparable to Sexton's full bespoke - unlike, for example, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - but it is a solid way for people that like the Edward Sexton style to get a well-fitted suit in that cut. 

 

Orazio Luciano

Orazio made me a pink corduroy jacket, which was a decent fit, albeit with some issues. From the start, it was fitted quite closely, and with the slightly shorter cut that Orazio himself favours and has always worn. 

It’s important to separate these two things. We did have some pure issues of fit, mostly in the back and the sleeve length. But other things are more a question of house style - and readers should consider whether these work for them, rather than considering them faults. 

Orazio do also hand pad the chest and lapels of their jackets, which puts them above most other makers here in that respect. And that’s reflected to an extent in the price. Although it’s worth noting that the hand finishing is better on something like the Armoury suit mentioned above. Neapolitan make is rarely that fine.

 

Stile Latino

Stile Latino is the Neapolitan brand run by Vincenzo Attolini, who split from the better-known Attolini to start his own, rather brighter and more experimental brand. 

Stile Latino is really a RTW company, and MTM is not offered that widely. The tailoring is also not something that aims to compete with formal bespoke, or be any kind of substitute for it - unlike many of the brands here. 

But having said that, if you like the brand’s style, the MTM they made for me was good. And not many places do this type of completely unstructured jacket with an MTM service. 

 

Gieves & Hawkes

  • Suits from £1495 (lowest quality level, price at time of commission)
  • Review article

This famous Savile Row name has been through a few different permutations in the past 10 years, and changed its tailoring supplier multiple times too. It never seems to be able to decide whether its RTW and MTM should be closer to the Row, or to Regent Street. 

I reviewed the service in 2014, even though the suit was made for my brother-in-law. I was present for every appointment and saw the suit in action, so felt able to still write a review. 

The suit was good for basic made to measure, but no more than that. It successfully gave him a fit that would have been impossible off the rack, but otherwise was the same quality level as their fairly low-level RTW. 

 

Henry Herbert and Hemingway Tailors

In the early years of writing Permanent Style, I covered some cheaper services that I probably wouldn’t use today. One of those was Henry Herbert, a visiting service that I couldn’t really recommend - the lack of tailoring experience seeming to be the biggest issue. 

And the other was Hemingway Tailors, run by Toby Luper, who had his suits made at the Cheshire Bespoke factory. Toby’s suits were well made and a decent fit, but I wouldn’t recommend them today for the price point. 

Jake Mueser, Drake’s and William Crabtree

This is more a holding note that anything else. I am in the process of making a jacket with Jake Mueser, and plan to cover the service at Drake’s, given how many readers ask about it - though I think it’s far to say they are aiming to offer a solid MTO option on their RTW tailoring today, rather than a MTM offering that will compete with full tailors. 

I am also in the process of making a suit with William Crabtree, the brand recently set up by agent James Priestley. I covered his MTM chore suit in a previous article here, but haven't included it in this list as it's not tailoring. When I have tried the tailoring, I'll add it in. 

If you’re interested in made-to-measure trousers, the makers we’ve covered are:

Please note, all prices include VAT and are correct at the time of commission - some may have risen since then. Please check dates of the original coverage. 

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Kevin

Good morning, I understand this is not the place for such enquiries and thus regret needing to post here, yet I would be grateful if someone could clarify the status of order #PS10058. I haven’t received any reply from the support@ address since 21 June, despite follow up messages. All previous orders have been handled with utmost professionalism; so I wonder if there is an issue with this particular order. Thank you and kind regards.

AK

Simon, you’ve worked with such a wide variety of makers across the world – how have you dealt with the language barrier? I recently had my first bespoke piece made and I’m interested in continuing a relationship with this tailor, but we don’t speak a single word in common beyond numbers and “inch.” The jacket came out extremely well, only needed a few tweaks at the end to get just right, but I know if I’m looking to him for my business wardrobe it’s going to be more complicated to discuss.

Sam

For anyone thinking that Kiton jacket looked like bad value for £4k in 2014, they are now regularly into £7k for the RTW jackets alone (trousers not included) on Mr Porter. Pretty incredible, but you have to assume there is a market for it.

MD

Hi Simon,
‘My experience with Saman and Dag has been a little mixed in other areas, but my experience of the tailoring was very strong.’
May I ask what these other areas were?
Thanks as always for the great article.

Kev F

This is, as ever a very useful and informative list, Simon. My impressions are that MTM is a relative minefield as it encompasses a large range of standards and services. I would ask if you could enlarge a bit on your description of Anglo-Italian; having some items from them I am contemplating them for a jacket later this year. It was your concluding remark about roominess/drape needing to be considered “alongside other aspects” that I was unsure about. Many thanks.

Kev F

I did originally but you have prompted me to revisit it where presumably my questions will be answered.

BC

How about Cesare Attolini?

Thishana Manchanayake

This is one of the best articles you have put out Simon. Incredibly useful to have everything in one place with prices. Thank you very much!

David Craggs

I think you are right to say that readers are looking for well made MTM but wrong to categorise it as a desire of the “young”. Personally I think it is a trend across the board.
People who love tailoring will always want to wear it at every opportunity but the number of opportunities are fast diminishing and this isn’t purely a function of COVID. It’s about lifestyle.
As a long-standing bespoke customer I can no longer justify bespoke on a cost per wear basis. It’s like having a Ferrari on the drive that you only use once a month.
I know this will provoke commentary from the ‘I’ll waste my money how I want’ crowd but I just don’t like wasting money on anything and given that I want nice tailoring, in a good cloth that fits, MTM hits the sweet spot.
Then it comes down to style and from all that you’ve reviewed, the one that floats my boat is Anglo-Italian. I bought a births, deaths and marriages suit from them not so long ago and I love it. Their house style has great drape, their cloths are really interesting and their service was impeccable.
Of course, some aspects of MTM will never match bespoke but good MTM comes perilously close and I’m quite sure that 90% of household bears won’t notice the difference.
Personally I doubt that MTM customers will ever migrate to bespoke whilst I’m quite sure that the reverse migration is already happening big time.
In some ways this is sad but bespoke has always been driven by formal work and social dress codes and when those codes no longer exist it is bound to have a huge knock on effect and not just for the young !

Anon

Interesting comment, thanks for sharing your rationale for not going bespoke any more.

I think you may find there are a few of us not in the ‘I’ll waste my money how I want’ crowd…

JJ

Hi Simon, i assume that the prices listed do not include the cost of the cloth [with the exception of AI]? With many cloths costing circa £200 p/m this can add a far amount to the final price.

JJ

The cloth offering must therefor be limited? The price of clothes varies so much i don’t see how they could factor it into a business model?

A.

Hello Simon
Interesting topic like always!
I had some MTM pieces made in the past and the results ranged from very good to basically unwearable.
You pointed out that they are not exactly cheap either, which I do agree with. I have therefor changed my strategy and visit a good city tailor like MacAngus & Wainwright for example
to commission what I would otherwise had ordered as a MTM jacked or trouser. The prices are roughly the same prize, but you get a full bespoke service.
Would be interesting to hear how you think the two options compare.
Best
A.

S Pedzik

I have a couple dozen suits and wear them daily for work however find that some still have not received the attention they probably deserve (for a number of reasons). Having such a large collection yourself do you find the same?

OTAVIO DA SILVA

Great article, Simon!. Could you name the top 3 best value tailors, from the ones you mentioned? I know it may be very personal, but I am interested in your thoughts. From what you wrote, I would say JMM, Eduardo de Simone and Saman Amel. What do you think?
Thank you

Tony Hodges

Can I ask a similar question another way? You pretty clearly thought Kiton disappointing for the price. Were there others in that category?

And closer to the previous question: were there some that you were pleasantly surprised at the quality, given the price?

The P Johnson comes in pretty cheap, for instance, but it seems like maybe they punched above their price on make quality?

Tony Hodges

I agree entirely on that last point.

Separately but relatedly, I think one of the reasons there’s a recurrent theme on the blog about ‘but is it value for money’ is in large part because few people have the chance to experience so many suits as you, and are thus anxious about being disappointed in their much rarer purchases.

It’s a more answerable version of ‘will I be disappointed?’, which is clearly unknowable.

Graham

The link for the Luxire trousers doesnt work.

Riccardo Franchi

My understanding is that for reasons involving lawyers, that article is no longer on the site. If you look however, the article is still available on some of the various internet archival sources such as the Wayback Machine.

Robert M

Wow, how disappointing… I do enjoy their trouser offering, but information like this makes me think whether I want to support a business like this…

Ali

Hey Simon,
currently having a purple label Ralph Lauren mtm being made. I’ve had the first entry level polo mtm and I have to say it’s pretty decent. I wanted to know your thoughts on it if you have experienced it.

Richard W

Hi Simon,
An interesting and useful list of MTM options.
Although Gieves is the only tailor you mention that I have used (circa 2005) it did make me reflect back to my own journey in trying different MTM options. Personally I found that I not only ended up with a well made and good fitting suit from the majority of tailors tried (3 out of 4) I also learnt a huge amount about what worked for my body shape and what styling points I wanted from a suit.
There are some great MTM options out there. If someone isn’t ready to make the step to bespoke then MTM is such a better option than big brand (usually) overpriced RTW. You not only get the suit but also the value of a tailor willing to spend the time understanding your needs and working with you to achieve the best fit possible.

Chris Lee

Without wishing to blow smoke, as my son would say, you have become a man with no little influence on tailoring in this country. Should the lack of Savile Row names on this list be a cause for concern or does it simply reflect the difference between MTM and bespoke? I ask as someone who sees MTM to bespoke as a natural progression when you learn what you really want from clothing and perhaps recognise that is only going to be realised with bespoke tailoring.

Will

I hope this is contributing enough to the discussion merely to say that the Anglo Italian outfit is absolutely nailed on you Simon – it catches my eye every time I see it (it has the tonality of a 60’s Bond film) and I could quite happily buy that whole outfit and stop shopping for the rest of the year (which I’d almost certainly have to).

hayes

Great article Simon, very interested to hear your thoughts on Drakes MTM. Any chance of looking at Ring Jacket MTM via the Armoury, and Sartoria Carrara (No Man Walks Alone) in the future?

Alexander

Dear Simon! You mentioned that we gain more from investing in tailoring and in shoes than from shirts. I think I know what you mean, but would you agree that from a style point of view (which is obviously also very important to you) investing in a shirt with a collar style that works with and without a tie and maybe some functional hand work (in the 200€ range) is still a good idea and not pure luxury? Investing in those shirts will become even more intelligent as the tie becomes less relevant every year. Would you agree?

Peter Hall

Having diligently saved during COVID,I thought long about investing in tailoring but settled on shirts at exactly that price point .

Steven

Hi Simon, the luxire link isn’t working. On that, have you any plans to try online MTM brands? I’d be interested on what you think about oliver wicks etc.

Alex

Hi Simon,
Have you ever considered Mason and Sons?
I’ve bought some RTW items from them and am considering their MTM options for a couple of suits. Be interested to know your view or experience of them if you’ve used them before. Thanks

Steve

Hi Simon

Amazing article as always.

Some feedback I would give would be to try some tailors scattered around the UK but not necessarily in London.

The Savile Row and London tailoring market is very saturated with most companies using the same workshops and just adjusting the block/models supplied to them.

Have a branch out to Hertfordshire and Cambridge etc. I think the value for money in these places is much higher as most customers in London are mainly paying the establishments rent as opposed the the final price reflecting cloth and quality.

I do appreciate that the London based firms are spending more on social media and imagery so they are probably more desirable at first glance than the ‘suburban’ tailors.

Thanks
Steve

Edric

Hi Simon,

If you had to pick one, would you go to: 1) a “cheaper” true bespoke tailor with superior fit, a house style that you’re just about okay with, but not so fine finishing; or 2) a slightly more expensive MTM service, with a style you absolutely love and finer finishing, all with a good fit (but still less than the bespoke one). All other things like convenience, accessibility, quality of service, etc. being equal.
I seem to recall you saying you would always go bespoke when given the option, I wonder if that changed considering your vast experience with different MTM services.

Edric

Thanks for your reply Simon, it gave me a lot to think about. I used to think it was bespoke over everything else but now it dosnt seem that much of an absolute rule haha.

Edric

Hi Simon,

What if the choice was between the “cheaper” bespoke, as above-described, and quality ready to wear (think Ring Jacket, or RL Purple Label), again, in a style than you love, and a good (but less than bespoke) fit can be achieved with very minor alterations?

I’m not trying to push your buttons here, nor am I trying to provoke you into changing your answer, I just want to know how much value “design” or “style” has over everything else. I’ve re read your recent RL article on design several times, and while I acknowledge its value, I’m still trying to gauge where it sits on the scale of priorities.

Thanks.

Edric

Thanks Simon! Your guidance is appreciated as always

Philip

Thanks again for another great article.
I’ve learned a lot from what others post here about their experiences, so in that spirit I’d like to share mine with Saman Amiel. I was keen to try them as I liked their aesthetic a lot. I enjoyed going to their showroom and talking to them and ordered a pair of cord trousers from (expensive) Loro Piana cloth. Unfortunately when they eventually came the fit was way off with terrible pocket flare. When I pointed this out they agreed to remake them though I’m not sure they would have offered if I hadn’t pointed out my concerns. These were a bit better but still with significant pocket flare. They were posted directly to me and I couldn’t make their next visit to see if anything else could be done – then COVID happened and I gave it up as a bad job. It was a lesson though that MTM isn’t necessarily cheaper – these were about twice the price of similar trousers from Graham Browne that fit perfectly. And a further lesson in that issues with visiting outfits can take a long time to resolve, if ever.

Carl

I am a regular Saman Amel customer and very satsified with them. Sorry to hear about your troubles. All of my items from them has not been perfect at first but they have always fixed them. I am course privilegied to live in Stockholm were they are based. My best MTM experience was probably Cesare Attolini but its maybe 5% better tham Saman Amel at a 50% higher price. I would also agree that Graham Browne is good value for tailored trousers (were style isnt as important as in jackets).

Anon

Hi Simon,

Thanks for this extremely helpful archive.

Do you have any plans to try out Atelier de Luca, the MTM arm of Camps de Luca?

Gaurang

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the great write up. For American customers who do not visit Europe regularly, would you recommend the Armoury based on convenience? Or are there alternative MTM providers? I live in Chicago but can reasonably go to NYC.

Thanks,

Gaurang

Sven

Great article! I’m myself a great fan of Jean Moreau and I’m grateful that I discovered him via PS. However, it’s a bit curious to see that you leave out Cesare Attolini in your reviews. I’m very curious to read your thoughts about it as I know some very serious people that own bespoke suits (from the usual suspects) but still consider Attolini a better made suit with more handwork than many others. I own several suits myself and love especially the fabrics but I prefer JM for less than half of the price.

Vincent B

Hi Simon,
Thank you for your excellent article. I am looking to get a tailor-made jacket in tweed and was looking at Norton & Sons on Saville Row (as they seem to carry a lot of English and Scottish tweed). I can’t find a review from you and was wondering if you had any views (or alternative recommendations). I am looking to spend between £1,200 and £1,500.
Many thanks, Vincent

Shoddy

I’m not tried them but having walked past i wonder whether Walker slater in covent garden might work I have a feeling they do bespoke although the website only mentions MTM https://www.walkerslater.com/made-to-measure

Shoddy

Yes. I only meant that they look like tweed specialists. Possibly worth a look if passing

Dave Fraser

Great site. Most of the clothing is beyond my financial reach, but it is still fun to look.

Varun Saxena

What in you opinion should be the position of the lapel on a jacket or a coat? Be it a peak or a notch lapel on either a single breast or a DB jacket.

Varun Saxena

Thanks Simon. This I am sure will be very helpful.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Thanks Simon. I am 5 feet 7 inches . So I guess I could try it out. Most of my jackets have the gorge in line with my shoulders, but I guess with a notch lapel I could try it out first.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Hi Simon
This is an excellent article. It works well for me from two standpoints. Firstly, the indicative cost is really helpful and secondly one gets to see style variations.
However, I may have suggestion based on my assumption that you have not reviewed a classic bandhgala suite. The easiest way to put it is that is a suite with a Chinese collar. Perhaps a lot more. It’s quite a favourite here in India. A formal, modern yet a traditional way to dress up. Perhaps you could do a write up on it. For reference, you could look at “ Canali Nawab Collection”.
Regards

Varun Saxena

Yeah, it’s the Nehru jacket. I like the one from Prologue. Don’t have one. Truth be told, here in India, we miss quit a lot of things that could make our wardrobe multi faceted because of the high temperatures most of the months. Cotton and linens are our best friends. Winters seem to be only for a month or two.
An jacket like the one mentioned by you or an over shirt, however, could be a good investment for months like November here. Thanks for responding so soon. Will keep asking more.
Regards

Varun Saxena

I see. Wanted to visit Singapore and Hong Kong, sadly, Covid hit us badly.
Have you ever reviewed BnTailors? They have some tie ups in Singapore but would love to visit the original makers in South Korea.
Regards.

J.

Hi Simon,

You have previously reviewed Prologue as a “semi-bespoke” service. Would you consider their make to be better than the best MTM on this list in that case?

Liam Colbeck

Hi Simon,
The general price Of MTM here is very comparable to the classic Bespoke option at Whitcombe and Shaftesbury. Is there any benefit in choosing any MTM over this classic bespoke? Do you feel it would be better to go with Saman Amel, for example, if you wanted a more casual jacket?
Many thanks,

Nico

Wasn’t Shibumi playing in this league too Simon?

Marc Jones

Simon, this is immensely insightful. Do you have any experience of Ede & Ravenscroft MTM? I’ve always thought they were massively underrated both in MTM and bespoke shirt making.

Ross

I see these prices and think how much better are these vs SuitSupply MTM at £400 – £500 per jacket. I’ve had a few done and there fine. Simon, perhaps you could review? Maybe a bit lower class for you but interested to get your take!

Glenn Ford

Dear Simon

I’ve been doing a lot of research of late relating to made to order services in London and I’ve come across Ede & Ravenscroft who offer a made to order 2P suit for £1100

I have to say that it sounds too good to be true when you consider K Sargent and T Sweeney are quoting £2200 for a two piece

I didn’t realise the limited options when it comes London based MTO

Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated

Thank you in advance

Kindest regards
Glenn Ford

Jerrell

Hi Simon,
As a US customer, I am excited to try Saman Amel, based on your positive reviews. However, I received the current price list from Dag (ahead of their trunk show visit to NYC), and I see now that prices for the Napoli line are getting closer to $4000. This is not cheap for MTM. Do your comments on expensive MTM v. cheaper bespoke still hold?

Seb

Hi Simon, You speak very highly of Graeme Browne who are cheaper than almost all of these mtm tailors and offer full bespoke. Do you think one would be better off buying from someone like Graeme brown, cad and the dandy or p.a Crowe rather than more expensive mtm?

Zy

Dear Simon,
I have a question about what I might term MTM-etiquette, which basically is: how “soft” should your decision to purchase from a particular place be when first visiting them?
I am soon travelling to London and am keen to visit a few different places with a view to ordering an MTM suit for an event next year. I have no intention of ordering on this trip but am keen to take this opportunity to see a few shops in person, to try on RTW tailoring, if available, to talk to them about pricing, styling options, fabrics. I am also as certain as can be that one of the shops I am going to visit will be the one I am going to order from.
Do you think it is best to be upfront about this? Is this something that a shop like Drakes or Anglo-Italian would accommodate or do you think it’s asking rather too much?
Thank you!

Martins

I might be wrong, but for me, decision where to spend my money is often very much influenced from how shop treats me after im upfront that i wont be purchasing anything at the moment.

If they are busy with paying customers, its fine. But if they figuratively speaking go back to reading newspaper even when im the only person in store and are unwilling to answer any questions, im unlikely to spend my money in there, all else being equal..

Matt L

Hi Simon. I wasn’t sure where to put this question, but what do you think of Spencer Hart and in particular their MTM service where they make you a few suits in bulk?

Ian

Hi Simon, I was wondering if you have had any experience with Jack Davison? or heard anything about this brand?

Seth R.

Hey Simon have you had a chance to make that review on custom Drakes?

Conor

Hi Simon, do you have any experience with the Canali or Corneliani MTM services? I am in Ireland, and they have recurring MTM days in Dublin. They have been described to me as quite comprehensive, at a cost of around 2.2k a suit. Am I better off getting a couple of flights to London?

Terry

Hi Simon
Did you ever cover the MTM/MTO at Drakes?

GG

Hey Simon,

Are you able to comment on the make & which offering offers more handwork between Ring Jacket MTM via the Armoury, and MTM Sartoria Carrara (No Man Walks Alone)?

Thank you!

Chris

Hi Simon,
Make and style aside, how would you compare the quality of fit on a first commission between SA/JMM and the offshore Sexton? You mentioned SA took great care with the measuring, but how does the fit result compare to Sexton, with the cutting done in London but without a basted fitting? In short, who is most likely to nail it on the first try?
Thanks,
Chris

RT

That’s certainly been my experience. SA really nailed the fit from my very first commission. The experience with ES was very disappointing.
I’ve tried a number of MTM products. SA are the best (and most expensive) I’ve tried by some margin. I don’t have any experience of JMM. I have had quite good value MTM, fully canvased and a reasonable fit, from James Michelsberg in Leeds. Not really SA standard, but certainly as good as what I’ve had from G&H, though significantly cheaper.

George

Hi Simon,

I’m hoping you can help me understand something a little better and ultimately reach a decision! 
I’m getting married in July and therefore am embarking for the first time into the world of MTM suits.
I’ve decided to go for double breasted as its’ different from what I wear daily (navy business suit) and as the wedding is in Spain I want to go for a linen blend. 
I’ve always been a huge fan of Thom Sweeney so they were my first stop, had a great consultation and identified a Holland & Sherry Fabric (Ref: 2019001) which I thought would work perfectly. The price quote for MTM was just shy of £2900.
As a second opinion I visited Gieves & Hawkes for a MTM consultation and chose the exact same fabric with the same choice of a DB suit. The price quoted at G&H was over £1200 cheaper than Thom Sweeney 
I would really appreciate you helping me understand why, if they are both Made To Measure and using the exact same fabric there is such a big difference in price, considering that they are both very reputable tailors in the trade. I would love to go with Thom Sweeney but it is hard to justify such a difference in price.  
Any light you can shed on this would be much appreciated Simon so thank you in advance!

George

Thanks Simon thats’ very helpful.

The other company i had in mind (and an appointment with next week) is P Johnson for MTM.
I know you’ve touched on them above but could you share your thoughts on them in my scenario please?
Regards

George

great thanks a lot!

Jack

Hi Simon.
Hope you are well. I am looking to make some fresco iii trousers. Can you recommend me any good MTM/Bespoke tailor that charges under 400 per pair? Thanks

J-K-F

Hello Simon, as you mention Trunk (and them being one of the very view MTM options here in Zurich): Can you say anything about their MTM suits?
Many thanks.

Gregoire

Just a note here as well – I just got back my first suit from P Johnson. I got it as a daily wear in the office, something that is smart but can also take a beating. I have to say I am thrilled.

Gavan in their London showroom is also a gent and really helpful (with a good eye as well!)

Samuel

What style of suit did you go for, Gregoire?
And, if you don’t mind me asking, how have their prices changed since Simon’s initial review?

Lindsay McKee

Hi Simon,
I should be really putting this comment in the 55 Bespoke Tailors Post but I had a refresher look at Steed Website yesterday and hit on their Made To Measure Button and then on their prices and I was surprised to see no less than Two options for Made to Measure as well as bespoke of course. I’ve included a link to the webpage.
I now have the finished bespoke trousers which are great and I’m getting another bespoke navy pair in navy to make a suit. I do like the braces by the way.
One important point the tailor advised me on was , if initially commissioning separates eg . navy jacket and grey trousers and subsequently commission a pair of matching navy is to go sooner rather then later as the fabric can change slightly in colour over time …hence my second commission of a pair of bespoke matching trousers in navy.
Simon,I beg you to seriously to commission something from Steed Bespoke in bespoke or MTM at your able convenience…please.
Edwin and Matthew are father and son and are two wonderful gentlemen and with an easygoing relationship which I highly recommend.
Ramp Steed Bespoke up highly on your “To Do” list now.
Great tailors and I recommend them highly …and of course they visit London regularly!!

Samuel

Apologies for commenting on an older article, but this is a fantastic resource.
I appreciate that made-to-measure isn’t the main thrust of this site, especially anything below the higher end of MTM. I wonder if you could recommend any blogs or other sites for whom it is more of the focus?
Or, if they don’t exist, anywhere that outlines how to intelligently judge the quality of what any given MTM service is offering?
Many of the menswear blogs that often get recommended for those with more modest budgets, such as Ape to Gentlemen, seem to focus much more on designer RTW rather than MTM.

Samuel

Thanks Simon, that’s useful to know.

Rather unrelatedly, that article you link to has a line in passing early on about not getting shirts dry-cleaned. Do you have more info about caring for shirts and making them last? (I’ve tried using the search function but couldn’t see anything). I have my first couple of MTM shirts and had just assumed that getting them dry-cleaned would be the best thing I could do for them!

Samuel

Thanks Simon,
Presumably there’s some trade-off in effort/ lifespan here, but in general when you say ‘wash at home’ is it acceptable to machine-wash on a delicate setting without doing too much damage? Or is it a case of hand-wash only?

Lindsay McKee

Have you checked out Norton & Son. A 2-piece suit begins at £2100 and Trousers £650 Inc. VAT. As I understand it, after enquiring to Norton, the nuts and bolts of the work is done in India and finishing in London. The jackets are fully canvased. You have at least 10,000 fabrics to choose from, probably more than enough!!
Check out their website!!

Lindsay McKee

I did forget to add that, from what I have read on the website, the measuring is done by their head cutter. I. may be wrong.
I’d like to know more about this too.
Probably Whitcomb is a safer option, given the price for BESPOKE, made in India. I would imagine, a better deal too.

Lindsay McKee

All I know is that the head cutter of C&D is one Stephen Allen, if that helps.
Go to the C&D website, hit the Journal tab, scroll back and you will find his profile article, TEAM TALK STEPHEN ALLEN -July 2021.
He seems to have an excellent tailoring record as was his father before him.
I would strongly encourage you to read that profile!
I hope that this affords some clarity.
Lindsay

Lindsay McKee

Extremely Good point indeed.
Lindsay

Philip

Any interest in trying some of the bigger Italian mtm outfits, like Belvest, Santandrea, or Sartoria Rossi?

Harry K

This list is very informative, from a make and style perspective. Pricing is now quite far out on the few enquiries I’ve made, though. Might it be worth updating prices per 2023 pricing? The prices at Saman Amel, for instance: Suits in the Napoli line now start from €3,900 and Suits in the Toscana line now start from €2700.

Teddy

I agree, just a jacket alone for Toscana line I was quite €3000! Is it even worth it ? I paid €2000 previously for a Toscana line jacket and even that I felt it was very steep. Whilst I appreciate their talent and skills, surely there must be other alternatives which are of better value.

ANONYMOUS

It would be nice, albeit over time to see an expansion of the listing of MTM tailors, particularly here in the UK including London, of which you have reviewed quite a few.
Some of the London tailors offer several levels of MTM, some reviewed, some not. Some new names would be great in order to offer anyone who wishes to opt for MTM a bigger comparison on how they “measure up” to a worthy standard…pun intended!!

Anon

Hi Simon – I’m 22 and looking to get my first commissioned suit for Christmas. I’d consider paying £1500-£2000, maybe up to £2500 for something really good. 
I wanted something bespoke or semi-bespoke (perhaps some of the craftsmanship done offshore like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury). I like a traditional cut (absolutely love Huntsman, but that’s way out of budget). 
I’m 6”3, relatively slim but with strong, broad shoulders. Does that give me slightly more flexibility, in that I can have a less structured cut and still give a ‘strong’ impression?
Where would you recommend I go? Many thanks x 

Anon

Yes I meant a Christmas present. I’m quite relaxed on time.

Anon

Thanks Simon. Are there any other tailors you’d recommend at a slightly lower price point?

Luke

Hi Simon, hope you are well. I was just reading your article on Brioni where you mentioned how you might be more attracted to the cloths provided by Ralph Lauren mtm. Do you have any plans on trying out RL’s mtm services?

Tobin

Hi Simon, really interesting article and love your blog in general. I’m 27 and in the hunt for a MTM SB linen suit and DB wool suit. Fit and quality are the main priority as I have wide shoulders relative to my waist. I have been looking at Roderick Charles and Casual Fitters. Both offering a MTM service around £1000 a suit. I was wondering if you had any experience with these or suggest anything else? Many thanks

Tobin

No worries. I had tried some RTW from Mr Porter at a similar price point and wasn’t impressed. The fits often too tight and lacked canvasing. I appreciate your response none the less.

Markus

You might want to have a look into Cavour (on sale). As far as I understand my tailor, the shoulders have to fit but other parts can be fixed to a degree. In fact, buying RTW that fits you well and having it altered by a capable tailor, whom you trust, might be a better option than MTM that is not well executied.

Tobin

I have looked at both Cavour and Caneli. I have found a couple I particularly like however both have a slim fit through the leg which I don’t like, I also find jackets which fit my chest are too large. I am not too familiar with getting a tailor to adjust, but I would consider it. Finding a capable tailor in this price range may be harder to come by. I am going to visit Anglo-italian and see what they offer and may get my DB MTM and RTW linen. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Markus

Further PS: Caruso, Corneliani and Canali are also good value when they are on sale and below EUR 900-1000. I have both a Caruso and Corneliani suit and am very happy with them. But you will have to find out which brands and product lines within those brands fit you well in the parts that cannot be changed and alter the other parts.

QJ

Hey Tobin, I have had some experience with Casual Fitters, albeit with trousers, of which I had 3 pairs made, ranging from £150-200.

I think they were OK at that price range, and it was nice introduction to something that was tailored ‘just for me’.

In the first year, with daily use, all of the trousers started tearing at the crotch and at the hems, needing repairs.

I really didn’t have a good experience with their ‘lifelong repairs’ at all. They refused to repair the holes and pointed out that it wasn’t covered under the fine print (in fairness it wasn’t, but I’d say calling adjustments running repairs is misleading in the least). I asked for a pair to be adjusted and it came back repaired though, I guess the tailor they hired had more of a problem doing a half job than the salesmen.

I’d just stick with suitsupply at that price range.

T

Thank you, useful to know

Harry

Hi Simon,
I know you’ve had this question countless times, I’m getting married in November and would like your advice on bespoke, offshore bespoke and MTM. 
Unfortunately, bespoke is out of price range with most starting at £5.5k, (quite surprised at). Price range is £1k – £3k.
I’ve looked at offshore bespoke for example from Whitcomb & Shaftbury £3,000, I then looked into Italian tailors (of which I really like the relaxed approach to tailoring even for formal occasions) for example Sartoria Solito 3,200 euro however I’m then having to rely on trunk shows, I have contacted Ciardi but not had any response (probably out of budget anyway).  
Also looked into your MTM articles at a more friendly price, however comes with drawbacks of finding a style that will fit. I struggle with trousers always being tight around my thigh / hamstrings. I’ve seen a few on your pages that have caught my eye from Anglo Italian, Massura, Edward Sexton (ES also fall within budget for offshore but after selecting extras I feel it may go way over) My closest tailor / retailer is Doherty Evans & Stott in Manchester with their two-piece MTM at £1895.00 (handmade in Italy at Caruso la Fabbrica Sartoriale according to their site) which seems high. 
I’m not overly fussed on the details that a fully bespoke service will offer at this moment in time (e.g. full hand stiches throughout the garment, only things a professional tailor or industry expert would notice),I want it to fit as best as it can, comfortable and be good enough for the occasion. I do train and continue to build size naturally, I’m not gaining mass size however I would like any suit I commission / purchase for my wedding to fit for the sometime or can have slight adjustments where possible. 
With this in mind, would you suggest avoiding bespoke / offshore bespoke and even made to measure or stick with one of the options? Any advice would be fantastic. Thanks, Harry.

Harry

Hi Simon,
Thanks for the reply much appreciated. I really like the brand, contradictory to my comment below on relaxed tailoring my only reservation is it too casual for the occasion?
Would you say that it’s good value for money too?

Harry

Hi Simon, if I was to look at a more traditional / formal / English cut would you have any further recommendations that are of a similar price point / good value for money?

Lindsay McKee

I want to introduce you to my finished MTM Blue jacket that I recently commissioned from the Belfast men’s outfitters of Andrew Watson of Upper Queen Street. Price inc.VAT is £1250. The Cloth was Dugdale TROPICALAIR No. 4609 11.9oz BRIGHT BLUE MOCKLENO.
Also my casual belt by Tim Hardy made in a unique Oak Bark tanned leather by J & FJ BAKER in Devon. This model is a slightly more casual one called the Casemaker in Australian Nut colour. Price £105.It is 11/2” wide and a sturdy 1/4” thick with brass London D buckle and brass keeper. That is my second belt commission with him. Both are superb fitting belts.
Shoes are my trusted Crockett & Jones BRADFORD derbys with dainite rubber sole. I have coloured this to a deep chestnut with Saphir polish. These are my current best fitting shoes.
Trousers are mid grey Peter Christian weekenders and the shirt is a white off the peg, nothing special.
Tie is dark navy by T.M. LEWIN.
The jacket is supremely comfortable in fit.
I am extremely pleased with this jacket.
I will point out that I’m getting a pair of trousers made with Andrew Watson in the 12oz Holland & Sherry AIRESCO BUNCH in a slightly lighter grey no. 3221019. Cost will be £550.
I will add another photo of the colour combinations .
What’s your opinion Simon?

102e31f5-1ac9-4896-9687-02d3b9f443cb
Lindsay McKee

Totally agree on all your points Simon.
I actually bought a navy/white bengal RTW shirt on the day. Should have worn it!
The tie may be the wrong type.. please advise here.
I’ll be presenting another photo when the trousers are finished and I’ll wear the striped shirt.
Could the shoes be a different style…eg suede perhaps?

Lindsay McKee

I like the Crockett& Jones offerings in belts except the pebble grain. Possibly dark brown or dark chestnut in calf or suede. What do you think of a woven belt?
Here are some screenshots.

IMG_0108
Lindsay McKee

Absolutely super advice.
Many thanks for all your help.
I’ll update those pictures when my MTM trousers come through.

Lindsay McKee

Suede Belts

IMG_0109
Lindsay McKee

Woven belt

IMG_0111
Lindsay McKee

More photos

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Lindsay McKee

Fabric for the upcoming trousers laid on top of my jacket

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