The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

July 12th 2021

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

Match in comments:
In London I'd look to Anderson & Sheppard, Trunk, Anglo-Italian, Drake's, though I can't remember the exact prices - they have largely gone up recently. You might have to look to someone cheaper, like perhaps Suit Supply...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 12th 2021

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

January 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smarter, more important and more f...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

Match in comments:
I wore my Cleverley imitation brogues. I don't think there's anything wrong with Oliver's trousers - they are just breaking a bit more at the front as a result of how he is standing. I also wouldn't go with turn-ups, bot...

Black tieJanuary 26th 2017

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

Match in comments:
Great, I will look forward to it!...

Jackets - SuitsApril 29th 2016

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

Match in comments:
Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...

July 17th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And we&a...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

Match in comments:
I think it can look very nice. Bear in mind that linen and cotton will usually look more casual, though, and perhaps therefore better suited to casual jackets rather than suiting. Lightweight wools are often better with ...

StyleApril 15th 2015

Final Kiton Lasa jacket

November 7th 2014

Decent made to measure. That’s how I would describe this final jacket from Kiton – made for me as part of the Harrod’s MTM events and described in previous posts on the commissioning and fitting. The basics are all t...

Final Kiton Lasa jacket

Match in comments:
I’m not normally a fan of light grey but tha jacket is an excellent choice. The fabric is amazing....

JacketsNovember 7th 2014

Kiton’s Lasa – bespoke or made-to-mea...

October 10th 2014

The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that...

Kiton’s Lasa – bespoke or made-to-mea...

Match in comments:
I find that Isaia are excellent MTM and also Bespoke .... quality of fittings better than Kition...

October 10th 2014

Clothes for a wedding

August 29th 2014

The simplicity of classic wedding attire – in colour, in pattern, in tone – is a reflection of respect for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but while I can see the argume...

Clothes for a wedding

Match in comments:
That sounds very nice Harry...

StyleAugust 29th 2014

Kiton ‘Lasa’ jacket

April 16th 2014

Regular readers will remember the video I did for Harrod’s last year, to help them promote their quarterly made-to-measure events. At the same event this quarter, I took Kiton up on a longstanding invitation to try their MTM offering. The produ...

Kiton ‘Lasa’ jacket

Match in comments:
Read the review.... There are different posts on this around the site, as well as on Kiton generally...

JacketsApril 16th 2014

Caruso made to measure, at Trunk

April 7th 2014

Last week Caruso held its first made-to-measure suit event in the UK – at Trunk Clothiers. It was an interesting experiment for both sides. Caruso has never done MTM in the UK before, just in Italy and one or two other European countries; a...

Caruso made to measure, at Trunk

Match in comments:
Hi Zi, To be honest, no, I think that is more likely to be misleading than useful. Too many factories produce different quality levels, or do particular aspects for particular clients. Today there's a little too much foc...

April 7th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in the first place. In t...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

Match in comments:
Here are some more pics of Simon's DB: http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/69709009635/simon-crompton-shows-you-how-the-cifonelli-bespoke...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

D’Avino shirts, Naples

December 4th 2013

One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent education – and then se...

D’Avino shirts, Naples

Match in comments:
There is no shop, just a workshop, and it's a good 40 minute drive outsode Naples I'm afraid...

ShirtsDecember 4th 2013

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

October 4th 2013

The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here.

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

Match in comments:
Oh dear...

Suits - VideoOctober 4th 2013

Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?

August 16th 2013

Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for about 10 years...

Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?

Match in comments:
Thanks for the tip...

Reader questionsAugust 16th 2013

Simone Righi, Frasi

January 31st 2013

It was nice to meet Simone Righi in Florence. I’ve been into Frasi, and Tie Your Tie as it was before, but not when he has been in the shop. Simone rebranded his shop three years ago, leaving the Japanese group Tie Your Tie. The stock and servi...

Simone Righi, Frasi

Match in comments:
Thanks Ruben, that's very kind...

January 31st 2013

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

November 2nd 2012

I recently wrote about my favourite evening combination – blue shirt and grey/silver tie with a navy or charcoal suit. This is a rather more dressy combination for formal events and dinners, making use of a waistcoat more usually worn with a mo...

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

Match in comments:
Look at the 'fishy and polo' post and also th choppin and lodge suit. Same cutter...

StyleNovember 2nd 2012

My favourite formal combination

October 5th 2012

The most formal suit combination for a modern man is a navy suit, white shirt and silver tie. When that tie is a woven like a Macclesfield, it is a classic wedding combination and much more suitable to being married in than the tuxedos so favoured in...

My favourite formal combination

Match in comments:
No that could look elegant too. And perhaps a white linen handkerchief...

StyleOctober 5th 2012

Kiton master shirtmaker: Sebastiano Borelli

January 14th 2012

This is Seb. Sebastiano really, but Seb to us. Because we’re just that fond of him. Sebastiano is head of shirtmaking at Kiton, overseeing the 40+ team of cutters and sewers that makes all of Kiton’s shirts in Arzano, just outside Naples....

Kiton master shirtmaker: Sebastiano Borelli

Match in comments:
Yes, that is how discussions normally start. But that's just because it's by far the easiest thing to market. I'm not saying fineness and ply are not important - they are - but fineness will mean that the shirt is more d...

Shirts - January 14th 2012

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

September 22nd 2011

You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by...

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

Match in comments:
Thanks, I certainly will. It will hopefully also be the topic of my third book, which I'm talking to publishers abou at the moment...

StyleSeptember 22nd 2011

Naples, Kiton: ties

August 19th 2011

There is one essential to a quality tie: the slip stitch. This is a loose, hand-sewn stitch along the length of the tie, usually finishing in a loop of excess thread at its smaller end. It enables the tie to move along its length, and recover after b...

Naples, Kiton: ties

Match in comments:
To clarify Mitch, there is a lining in these ties, as well as the three-fold construction. So a decent amount of structure. In terms of texture, though, I think better with worsteds. Simon...

TiesAugust 19th 2011

The modern man needs a good blazer

August 17th 2011

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require them to wear a suit, yet a jacke...

The modern man needs a good blazer

Match in comments:
I'd look to a lightish weight wool, say 9-110z, or a wool/cashmere mix around that weight...

StyleAugust 17th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shoes

August 5th 2011

In the UK, good shoes split into two very clean categories: benchmade and bespoke. With the former, workers use a series of hulking Victorian machines to make the shoes. Each applies force in a different way, whether stretching the upper over the las...

Naples, Kiton: shoes

Match in comments:
That's very kind Tim, thanks. I'm really pleased you get value from it Simon...

Factory visits - ShoesAugust 5th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shirts

July 29th 2011

I mentioned in my previous post on the Kiton factory outside Naples that the shirt manufacturing impressed me post. In fact, it wasn’t so much the manufacturing operation as the handwork that resulted – something you can see on any Kiton ...

Naples, Kiton: shirts

Match in comments:
Just plastic ones I have from other shirts - they're thicker than the Kiton ones though, I remember those from back when I used to have shirts made there. They were pretty flimsy. I used to use silver or mother of pearl ...

Factory visits - ShirtsJuly 29th 2011

Naples, Kiton: suit pictures

July 25th 2011

Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken from a previous trip Andy did....

Naples, Kiton: suit pictures

Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken ...

SuitsJuly 25th 2011

Naples, Kiton: suits

July 22nd 2011

My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella like it. All of the hundreds of...

Naples, Kiton: suits

Match in comments:
No, I'd strongly disagree with that. Huntsman and all proper Savile Row tailors still have more handwork and attention to detail than Kiton, as well as bespoke cutting and fitting....

Factory visits - SuitsJuly 22nd 2011