Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

January 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smar...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smar...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 26th 2017

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the...

The Finest Menswear in the World

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the...

July 17th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone se...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone se...

StyleApril 15th 2015

Final Kiton Lasa jacket

November 7th 2014

Decent made to measure. That’s how I would describe this final jacket from Kiton – made for me as part of the Harrod’s MTM events and described in previous posts on the commissioning and fitting. Th...

Final Kiton Lasa jacket

Decent made to measure. That’s how I would describe this final jacket from Kiton – made for me as part of the Harrod’s MTM events and described in previous posts on the commissioning and fitting. Th...

Jackets - TailoringNovember 7th 2014

Kiton’s Lasa – bespoke or made-to-measure?

October 10th 2014

The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the f...

Kiton’s Lasa – bespoke or made-to-measure?

The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the f...

TailoringOctober 10th 2014

Clothes for a wedding

August 29th 2014

The simplicity of classic wedding attire – in colour, in pattern, in tone – is a reflection of respect for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but whil...

Clothes for a wedding

The simplicity of classic wedding attire – in colour, in pattern, in tone – is a reflection of respect for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but whil...

StyleAugust 29th 2014

Kiton ‘Lasa’ jacket

April 16th 2014

Regular readers will remember the video I did for Harrod’s last year, to help them promote their quarterly made-to-measure events. At the same event this quarter, I took Kiton up on a longstanding invitation to try...

Kiton ‘Lasa’ jacket

Regular readers will remember the video I did for Harrod’s last year, to help them promote their quarterly made-to-measure events. At the same event this quarter, I took Kiton up on a longstanding invitation to try...

Jackets - TailoringApril 16th 2014

Caruso made to measure, at Trunk

April 7th 2014

Last week Caruso held its first made-to-measure suit event in the UK – at Trunk Clothiers. It was an interesting experiment for both sides. Caruso has never done MTM in the UK before, just in Italy and one or two o...

Caruso made to measure, at Trunk

Last week Caruso held its first made-to-measure suit event in the UK – at Trunk Clothiers. It was an interesting experiment for both sides. Caruso has never done MTM in the UK before, just in Italy and one or two o...

Tailoring - April 7th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

D’Avino shirts, Naples

December 4th 2013

One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent...

D’Avino shirts, Naples

One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesDecember 4th 2013

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

October 4th 2013

The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here....

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here....

Suits - TailoringOctober 4th 2013

Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?

August 16th 2013

Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for ...

Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?

Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for ...

Reader questionsAugust 16th 2013

Simone Righi, Frasi

January 31st 2013

It was nice to meet Simone Righi in Florence. I’ve been into Frasi, and Tie Your Tie as it was before, but not when he has been in the shop. Simone rebranded his shop three years ago, leaving the Japanese group Tie...

Simone Righi, Frasi

It was nice to meet Simone Righi in Florence. I’ve been into Frasi, and Tie Your Tie as it was before, but not when he has been in the shop. Simone rebranded his shop three years ago, leaving the Japanese group Tie...

AccessoriesJanuary 31st 2013

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

November 2nd 2012

I recently wrote about my favourite evening combination – blue shirt and grey/silver tie with a navy or charcoal suit. This is a rather more dressy combination for formal events and dinners, making use of a waistco...

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

I recently wrote about my favourite evening combination – blue shirt and grey/silver tie with a navy or charcoal suit. This is a rather more dressy combination for formal events and dinners, making use of a waistco...

StyleNovember 2nd 2012

My favourite formal combination

October 5th 2012

The most formal suit combination for a modern man is a navy suit, white shirt and silver tie. When that tie is a woven like a Macclesfield, it is a classic wedding combination and much more suitable to being married in t...

My favourite formal combination

The most formal suit combination for a modern man is a navy suit, white shirt and silver tie. When that tie is a woven like a Macclesfield, it is a classic wedding combination and much more suitable to being married in t...

StyleOctober 5th 2012

Kiton master shirtmaker: Sebastiano Borelli

January 14th 2012

This is Seb. Sebastiano really, but Seb to us. Because we’re just that fond of him. Sebastiano is head of shirtmaking at Kiton, overseeing the 40+ team of cutters and sewers that makes all of Kiton’s shirts i...

Kiton master shirtmaker: Sebastiano Borelli

This is Seb. Sebastiano really, but Seb to us. Because we’re just that fond of him. Sebastiano is head of shirtmaking at Kiton, overseeing the 40+ team of cutters and sewers that makes all of Kiton’s shirts i...

Shirts - January 14th 2012

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

September 22nd 2011

You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN ma...

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN ma...

StyleSeptember 22nd 2011

Naples, Kiton: ties

August 19th 2011

There is one essential to a quality tie: the slip stitch. This is a loose, hand-sewn stitch along the length of the tie, usually finishing in a loop of excess thread at its smaller end. It enables the tie to move along i...

Naples, Kiton: ties

There is one essential to a quality tie: the slip stitch. This is a loose, hand-sewn stitch along the length of the tie, usually finishing in a loop of excess thread at its smaller end. It enables the tie to move along i...

Shirts and ties - TiesAugust 19th 2011

The modern man needs a good blazer

August 17th 2011

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require th...

The modern man needs a good blazer

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require th...

Style - TailoringAugust 17th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shoes

August 5th 2011

In the UK, good shoes split into two very clean categories: benchmade and bespoke. With the former, workers use a series of hulking Victorian machines to make the shoes. Each applies force in a different way, whether str...

Naples, Kiton: shoes

In the UK, good shoes split into two very clean categories: benchmade and bespoke. With the former, workers use a series of hulking Victorian machines to make the shoes. Each applies force in a different way, whether str...

Factory visits - ShoesAugust 5th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shirts

July 29th 2011

I mentioned in my previous post on the Kiton factory outside Naples that the shirt manufacturing impressed me post. In fact, it wasn’t so much the manufacturing operation as the handwork that resulted – somet...

Naples, Kiton: shirts

I mentioned in my previous post on the Kiton factory outside Naples that the shirt manufacturing impressed me post. In fact, it wasn’t so much the manufacturing operation as the handwork that resulted – somet...

Factory visits - ShirtsJuly 29th 2011

Naples, Kiton: suit pictures

July 25th 2011

Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken ...

Naples, Kiton: suit pictures

Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken ...

Suits - TailoringJuly 25th 2011

Naples, Kiton: suits

July 22nd 2011

My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella l...

Naples, Kiton: suits

My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella l...

Factory visits - SuitsJuly 22nd 2011

Le Snob: Tailoring

May 16th 2011

About two years after the project was first discussed, and a year after I finished writing the thing, my first book is finally out. It is part of a series of books called ‘Le Snob’, with expert views on such ...

Le Snob: Tailoring

About two years after the project was first discussed, and a year after I finished writing the thing, my first book is finally out. It is part of a series of books called ‘Le Snob’, with expert views on such ...

TailoringMay 16th 2011

The hand of the artisan

October 29th 2010

After long gestation, The Rake magazine has finally launched its coffee-table book, Hand of the Artisan: The Soul of Italian Luxury. It is a tour through 17 different Italian manufacturers, heavily illustrated with hands...

The hand of the artisan

After long gestation, The Rake magazine has finally launched its coffee-table book, Hand of the Artisan: The Soul of Italian Luxury. It is a tour through 17 different Italian manufacturers, heavily illustrated with hands...

October 29th 2010

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

January 18th 2010

Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna&r...

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna&r...

TailoringJanuary 18th 2010

In defence of Blake construction

April 15th 2009

There’s nothing necessarily wrong with Blake-construction shoes (the method used on all traditional Italian models). They are just more delicate and will not last as long as Goodyear-welted shoes. The same could be...

In defence of Blake construction

There’s nothing necessarily wrong with Blake-construction shoes (the method used on all traditional Italian models). They are just more delicate and will not last as long as Goodyear-welted shoes. The same could be...

ShoesApril 15th 2009