Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review
Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples.
The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I think Massura is worth highlighting for two reasons.
First, there are few such places in Germany, and Moritz serves Cologne and Dusseldorf as well as Munich. (Plus travelling to Zurich and London.)
Second, the services he offers are cheaper than most, with a handmade made-to-measure (MTM) suit starting at €1600 and bespoke at €2500. The structures are also unusual, with RTW made to the same standard as MTM.
I tried the MTM service, with one fitting in person and two over video/email.
The result was good in many respects, but there were substantial issues with the balance and shoulders at the back of the jacket.
One thing I can say about Moritz, however, is that he is very keen to avoid the trap of being a new, relatively cheap tailor that tries it for a few years and then disappears. He is aware of the dangers and talks of a ‘very German’ approach to business and customer service.
He has fixed jackets for other clients a few months after they were delivered, and is keen to work on this with me later on. Hopefully when we can see other again in person, rather than over Zoom.
Still, for the moment I felt it was fair to review the jacket as it is, given the fittings we had (MTM is normally just one) and Moritz (below) agreed. I will follow up later on in the year if the jacket is altered.
The levels of tailoring at Massura are not standard, and should be described first.
Bespoke is as normal: full hand make, finishing and padding, with a unique pattern with no limit on fittings. Jackets start at €2000 (all including VAT), suits at €2500. More expensive cloths can add up to €200, but no more.
Made-to-measure, however, is probably closer to semi-bespoke. Most of the making is the same as bespoke. The only difference is that the internal work - the padding and so on - is not as precise, some hand finishing is left off the outside, and some ironwork is skipped. Overall, it apparently takes 30% less time.
The big difference with MTM is the fit. This is done using a block pattern - a ready-to-wear shape - and then adjusted as much as possible. There is also normally only one fitting. It starts at €1200 for a jacket, €1600 for a suit.
Then there’s RTW, which is made to the same level as MTM. This was launched last Spring, and this year there will be an MTO version of it too - basically, RTW but with the ability to pick cloth and make simple changes like sleeve and body length.
Perhaps most surprisingly, the RTW and MTM are priced the same, with no extra charged for the fitting and re-cutting (plus travel) of MTM.
I was interested in trying the MTM option, as we’ve been focusing on offerings like this recently - examples have included Edward Sexton, The Armoury and Anglo-Italian. While I will always prefer bespoke, I wanted to better cover these more accessible services for readers.
The fit of the Massura jacket I think reflects the fact that MTM starts from a RTW block.
Tailors often say I am deceptively difficult to fit. I have fairly regular proportions in terms of chest, waist and height, and these can often lead to a clean look in the front of the jacket (as here).
The biggest issue at the front is my sloping shoulders, and having the right shoulder slightly lower than the left. This can lead to a slight collapsing under the arms, particularly on the right. Moritz actually dealt with this fairly well.
The difficulty comes at the back. My (relatively) long neck, pronounced shoulder blades, hollow lower back and pronounced seat mean that the back of the jacket is more of a challenge. At the very least it has to be a lot longer than the front, to get up and down all those curves.
This seems to be where the Massura MTM had difficulty, and there are issues around the back of the shoulder and armhole, where things are collapsing.
The jacket does appears to have become crumpled somehow during wear, and the collapsing is exaggerated rather by the sunlight. But the photo does accurately show where the issues are.
There were a couple of other small issues, such as the left sleeve being longer than the right still. And it could do with more overlap in the vents.
But at this point I’m judging it against full bespoke tailoring, which is not fair. Despite the extensive handwork in this jacket, it is definitely made to measure.
Compared to other MTM I’ve had, this sits somewhere below average. The fit in the back was much better on the best examples we’ve covered, such as Saman Amel, Jean-Manuel Moreau and The Armoury.
It’s probably worth repeating the point about handwork, because it may be this is what some Massura customers buy the tailoring for.
After all, it’s hard to find handmade RTW tailoring, and the MTM might suit some people better than me, if they’re a better fit for the block. The upcoming MTO is yet one more handmade option.
There are all the functional points mentioned above - hand-padded collar, canvas and so on - plus the finishing inside and outside is good quality for Naples. Not with the finesse of London or Milan, but with nice top stitching throughout the inside and on the lapped seams outside.
Readers have asked a lot about video fittings over the past year, and with Moritz I did have the second fitting over Zoom, plus a third set of changes following some photographs sent by email.
Those didn’t improve the jacket a lot, but it’s impossible to know whether that was related to them being online or not. Fittings in person will always be better of course, but for me to rate the effectiveness of video I’d really have to try something purely online.
Moritz also made it very clear that, whenever physical fittings weren’t possible, an unlimited number of video fittings were available - to try and make up for the lack of meetings in person. I know some other customers have gone this route.
In any case, hopefully the easing of lockdowns over the rest of the year will make this point less relevant.
The cloth, by the way, is a lovely tweed from Abraham Moon called 'Lichen'. I have plenty of darker tweeds, so was looking for something more vibrant, that would be a nice match for stronger colours like my bespoke shoes from Nicholas Templeman worn in these photos.
It’s a mid-weight lambswool twill, 375g, and has code PL375 2010-27.
The other clothes are a shadow-stripe oxford shirt made by D’Avino, and my Richard James cavalry-twill trousers. The latter really are an excellent fit and make - Ben and his team did a great job. I only wish they were in a colour I wore more often.
I elected not to wear a pocket square with this outfit, as I felt the lines and colours of the other clothes were so nice together, and the square might have been a distraction.
But in retrospect it would have looked better with some silk in the breast pocket, particularly as these country colours look so great with strong colours like orange, yellow, purple and sky blue.
Moritz has suggested altering this jacket further down the line, and trying the bespoke service.
I’ll certainly do the former, and report back on it on PS. While this jacket hasn’t worked out that well in some respects, it wouldn’t be complete without reporting later improvements that reflect the normal approach at Massura.
And I’d be happy to try the bespoke as well, if Moritz feels it would work better for my physique. At €2000, it is competitively priced.
As ever, this piece is only a reflection of my one experience, so I’d love to hear from other Massura customers, in the comments below or by email.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Thanks for this – very interesting piece. You are certainly right to note that Massura’s MTM and bespoke services seem competitively priced, and that Germany is a comparatively poorly served market for high-end mens tailoring (I lived there in the early noughties, and ended up buying suits through one of the travelling Hong Kong outfits serving the local British army garrison) .
But following this logic would it not also make sense to look at some of the – non-London – tailors in the UK? The North of England and Scotland also have comparatively few working in this space, and the price offerings are (in my experience) even more competitive. This is especially true when looking at the small number who provide a true bespoke offer. Gillian Long at Cock of the Walk springs instantly to mind, with full bespoke at c.£900 plus fabric.
Just a thought…
This is a subject we’ve touched on many times in the past – see post here for details on why I don’t tend to, and a proposed solution (that very few have taken up). Do add your own recommendation if you have one.
Hi, in terms of brightness of shade, how would this tweed compare with your Harris Tweed? Thank you!
This is much brighter
isn’t “unlimited number of video fittings” getting expensive quite fast? I know it cost me 40£+ some taxes to send shoes to Italy and I can’t imagine jacket fitting in a smaller box than shoes….
Potentially, yes. I guess in reality you wouldn’t need more than two or three at the most, if the alterations were being made well. And tailors don’t have much choice when they can’t travel.
I think that’s the first time you’ve done ‘German Tailoring’.
Not quite as good as their cars then ?
Afew points , if I may .
1 Price wise that’s probably the most affordable we’ve seen on PS. A followup on how well he can further correct it would be useful.
2 from the back the fit doesn’t seem so good with lots of extra fabric ….although I assume the extra fabric makes it more comfortable when putting your arms forward ?
The back seems the opposite of the Spanish tailor ‘Absolute Bespoke’, popular on social media, whose jackets seem very , very fitted .
Your thoughts on ‘Absolute Bespoke’ ? Any future review planned ?
1. True, and I’ll certainly follow up.
2. There is some extra comfort there, certainly, but that only accounts for a small part of the issue. A lot of it seems to me (only seems – I’m not a tailor) like the shoulders needing to be picked up as well, which isn’t related to comfort.
No, no plans to cover Absolute Bespoke. Their fit is just appalling.
Thank you , you’ve just confirmed what I was alittle unsure of about regarding Absolute Bespoke LOL
“Alittle unsure” because when things look that fitted I didn’t know whether that was exact or ….just bloody awful .
You need to write about tailoring that is too ….tailored !
Yes, looking at the side and rear pics, this was my thought as well that shoulders need to be picked up. Excess cloth for comfort should be width wise at the back, not slouching down
Yeah, Absolute Bespoke has pretty horrible fit. The fabric used looks like it has spandex in it. I asked the guy who is the owner where the suits are made on IG but he never responded. But, he seems to be pretty successful based upon his IG profile.
ive always wondered how the absolute bespoke guys get their clothes on and off…
I know it might not be fair and the following might me perceived harsher when reading than I actually felt when writing it. However, I saw much better and flawless RTW fitting jackets than this MTO one. It might have been better to wait for the alterations. But than again the Credo for MTO should be „do it right (as close as you can) the first time“!
Same Lambswool bunch as the Moon you recommend in your Jacket and Jeans article if i’m not mistaken? I’m pleased as they are a good option for those on a budget.
I had a 3 roll 2 made up in PL375 2010-13 (on the back of the jacket and article). This was the third jacket made up by my tailor. Despite the pattern being good from previous jackets this version was bigger in a number of places (sleeves / back / shoulder / foreparts). There seems to be a decent amount of stretch that has come out in moulding/pressing the fabric in construction. Thankfully after a few tweaks the jacket looks great. Worth exploring if this is partly responsible for some of the issues discussed in the article.
this must be one of the cheaper services you’ve covered. If i want to see a comprehensive list/table of all bespoke/mtm services you’ve covered, along with prices and relevant reviews, where do I look? say, i was looking to get a suit made, and had a budget of X, then i can go straight to that table and read your reviews and decide for myself.
There is a series of articles like that:
– The bespoke tailors I have known
– The shoemakers I have known
– The shirtmakers I have known
One is coming soon summarising MTM makers
ah great that would be useful. yes that bespoke tailor list i could recall but could not find. i looked in all of the options under ‘guides’ and ‘styles’…i thought it would be under ‘guides to tailor styles’ but its not there either. they are a fantastic snapshot, so maybe you can make them more accessible…esp for someone new who doesn’t know it exists.
Good point Zo. I’ll see what I can do
Why just a week ago I was complaining here that I wouldn’t be able to make use of your new tweed fabric and then you share a tailor that visits within driving distance of where I live. It must be fate! I’ll definitely be looking into this.
Do Adam, and do chat to Moritz about it. It’s worth pointing out that most of what he offers is bespoke, not MTM, which would of course involve more fittings and not (importantly) start from a ready-made block.
You would also have the almost bigger advantage of being able to do everything in person, I assume.
I think you are being overly kind in your review. The fit is not very good and some aspects look decidedly sloppy. The jacket also seems to need a good pressing.
It certainly needs a pressing through the back. Not quite sure why as it’s just been hanging up
There is rumpling around lower back (from wear I believe) but the upper back/shoulders doesn’t seem a pressing issue. It’s the cut and possibly the angle at which the arm hole is cut, seems less shape there.
Regarding Made-to-Measure in general, you mention “one fitting” being the norm. What is typical in the “one fitting”? Is this the appointment when you select the cloth and take the measurements? Or a stage later when you have a finished garment but are confirming before cutting button holes?
Just trying to further understand the term fitting in the context of MTM and Bespoke… with Basted Fitting, Forward Fittings, etc it can get a little confusing for a consumer.
Well, it’s not the point where you take measurements and decide cloth etc. It’s the next appointment.
However, that next appointment can vary a bit in terms of what state the jacket is in, what alterations are possible at that stage, and what alterations are hard and therefore the brand/tailor won’t necessarily want to do.
The standard is usually for the jacket to be entirely finished, with buttonholes. So the alterations are limited to the seams, letting it in or out, making sleeves a tiny bit longer or shorter etc. This is usually the case because the brand uses a factory, and only pays for the factory to do one bit of work. The minor alterations are then done locally.
But as I said it varies, both in what’s possible and what the brand wants to do. Generally, higher-end or more craft-led companies will offer more, but not always
I’ve enquired about MTM and the one meeting is normally the picking the cloth and measuring.
The next meeting is normally minor adjustments such as sleeves or waist suppression.
I’m very interested to learn that the jacket should arrive with sleeves unfinished . Certainly not the impression I’ve been given by MTM I’ve enquired from.
Very useful to know .
Sorry Robin, that’s not what I said? The buttonholes are often already there, which is why only small adjustments are possible to sleeve length. Though as I said it does vary a lot.
Not to say this is normal, but in the past when I have ordered MTM I’ve just requested to have them hold off on the button holes for the sleeves. Now, this means I have them done locally and at my own expense. Prior to this request, there were a few experiences where the sleeves had arrived too short. But the MTM I have done since have been open to this request. I have also made similar requests for the front/fastening buttons too. The problem with the front buttons was that the jacket was not pressed or constructed to really roll correctly to different buttoning points. I would not recommend going this route.
Now I just do bespoke commissions. I’m a hard fit in MTM and bespoke just accommodates my body better.
Thanks Ben, nice point about requesting that on the sleeves
different question regarding sleeve buttons: Why did you go for just one button?
It’s a bit of a traditional thing in Naples for sports jackets
That fabric is absolutely delicious. I had a waistcoat made from it a year ago, and absolutely love it – the very essence of spring!
I realize of course that being well dressed requires more than simply entering a store and pointing your finger at an off-the-rack suit, but „video fittings“ are where I officially draw the line between effort and tomfoolery. Other than people like yourself, who review these items for a living, I cannot see a great many people spending their time and money in this manner.
Agree, I don’t think I would ever make an order for a jacket based on a purely remote process; there are real limitations to what you can do over video conference.
I would not pass judgment in what Moritz can or cannot do via the typical in person consultation based on your experience with a purely remote consultation. Of course, Moritz is ultimately responsible for the products he creates, which is why I’m surprised that he and so many other tailors would even attempt this with a new client. (Obviously different scenario if working with return clients who already have a good pattern or reliable measurements).
Absolutely, I don’t have a view on what fully in-person would be like. Though to be clear I did have one fitting in person
My point would be that one CAN be well dressed by pointing at an off-the-rack suit, provided perhaps the following :
1) The suit is properly constructed ie. fully canvassed etc
2) The fabric is high quality and tasteful
3) You have a fairly normal body type aligned to available sizing ( it helps to be in the US where, because of the market size, all sizes are sold ie. not just 40/50 and then 42/52 but 41/51 )
4) You will likely need full and proper ( ie not cheap ) alterations.
I don’t believe it is reasonable or gentlemanly to fetishize a certain way of buying clothes. My suits are roughly half bespoke and half RTW. I have no MTM. I have RTW from Paul Stuart, Lutwyche, Kilgour ( a decade plus ago ), and Huntsman, amongst others. They were / are all well made and they fit me. I am fortunate in not having many sizing idiosyncrasies.
I have also had bespoke of deeply forgettable quality. If you remove all price constraints, it clearly helps a bit. But all artisanal processes have flaws. I currently have an outstanding tailor who is neither cheap, nor very expensive, and I am not telling you who it is. 🙂
The MTM service above is either very bad or Simon got unlucky.
Nice to learn of tailors outside the London-Paris-Naples triad.
I chuckle when you address your “difficult fit”. I suspect you are a near perfect 48 or 50 Eu (maybe long) with not an ounce of excess fat. Despite that darn sloping shoulder here in the US you would be a tailor’s dream. Always enjoy the MTM/ bespoke reviews. Good stuff.
Thanks Robert. That’s certainly the case with fit through the front, but as I say, every tailor or MTM company I’ve tried has said I’m far from being a dream elsewhere
It would be interesting to know how the burgeoning ‘MTM’ from the boutique brands (Anglo-Italian etc..) compare with the stalwarts like ‘Zegna’ in terms of style, quality, service and price.
Going forward, I think this becomes the key question because once you are working off adjustments off a ‘block’, this becomes the acid test.
It is logical not to compare bespoke with these stalwarts as the aforementioned is completely tailored for the individual. The same can’t be said for MTM. What says Simon ?
You’re right, that would be a good thing to compare more. You will always be paying more with the likes of Zegna, but you may also get more consistency, and perhaps style too – the latter being the most subjective.
Whether it makes sense to compare MTM to bespoke depends on the similarities, which vary a lot with MTM programmes. MTM we’ve covered from the likes of Jean-Manuel Moreau or Saman Amel, for example, was very closely measured and compared very well.
As you said the sunlight throws some of the imperfections in the back into sharp relief, so they’re no doubt a little overstated in the photos, but the shirring in the shoulder followed by what looks like an almost arrow straight diagonal line down towards the armpit reminds me of my aborted attempt to adjust the shoulder of a Raffaele Caruso blazer a couple of years ago; an attempt that predictably ended with the garment in the bin.
That cloth is fantastic, though. If the back can be cleaned up it’ll be a keeper.
since I am stranded in Germany for the foreseeable future I was extremely delighted to see this review. Having delved into classic menswear during the pandemic I have been looking for a suitable place to try out mtm or bespoke. The results of this project would seem to confirm my impression that Germany is a lost cause sartorially speaking. While the basic style is not too bad, the jacket is basically unwearable. I can’t imagine spending the better part of my annual clothing budget and ending up with such an atrocious product. While I realize that this may be due to your unique posture, I really wouldn’t feel confident taking a gamble with this new operation.
In any case, I am extremely grateful for this review.
If you are, as your username suggests, in Berlin, any chance you have tried Max Mogg? Very different style from Massura, but looks very interesting for those after more of an English style.
your comment on the fabric matching the colour of your Templeman shoes doesn’t mean they are not suited to more muted and darker colours, does it? I am asking because I am attracted to get shoes in a similiar colour.
The shoes might work ok with those colours, yes, but they are always going to be a little limiting – to lighter trousers for instance
You might try standing up a bit straighter. This would get rid of the curve in your lower back and square the shoulders. Better posture better fit in my experience.
Well, yes perhaps with RTW or maybe MTM using a block like this.
But it would have to be a permanent change in posture to work, and that’s not a small thing to achieve
I’ve noticed this as well Simon. In many of your photos your posture appears quite stooped. I would recommend a quick trip to the chiropractor. Amazing what a good crack or two can do for an s-shaped spine.
I have tried that in the past without any discernible difference, but thank you.
Also, I guess the problem there would be that all my well-fitting jackets would no longer fit at the back!
I was looking at buying some new pyjama shorts and Hamilton and Hare came to mind due to your previous recommendation; however, I just noticed that you’ve updated the article to say you no longer recommend the brand. Would you have other brands you recommend that have a similar product?
I wouldn’t say I don’t recommend the brand. They make some other nice things. It’s just the specific underwear I reviewed that I’d no longer recommend.
I haven’t tried their pyjama shorts, and song wear them generally I’m afraid, so can’t really help there.
Please excuse my forthrightness, but this is all a bit of a dog’s dinner as a review, and perhaps a “product” too. However, my instinct tells me that you have done this firm a disservice. The jacket looks terrible on various grounds, and is a mish mash, and is poorly finished.
I do also get rather petulant about your constant emphasis on preferring bespoke. It sounds like a broken record. It depends on one’s shape and the style one wants and the tailor and one’s wallet. There is plenty of bad bespoke around, with haphazard cutting and poor finishing. I have had excellent suits from Paul Stuart, off the rack and altered, that look and feel impeccable after decades of use. Their construction allows them to give and to fit to one’s body as a good suit should do with time. Are they better suits than Anderson & Sheppard ? Self evidently not. Are they “better” than much bespoke and MTM ? Yes.
Perhaps you should focus more on judging suits solely on their own merits of construction, fit, and aesthetics rather than fussing minor technicalities which are not central to either fit, wear or aesthetics. Apologies again for my tone as I am generally a big fan, but sometimes there is a sense of “that way madness lies” in not seeing the woods for the trees.
No worries, some good points in there.
In my experience, bespoke can produce the best, but it can certainly be inconsistent, as I’ve often said and shown over the years.
I can see how it might be frustrating that bespoke is always used as the yardstick here, but that’s because it’s my opinion and experience, and what I write about most. It has always been very personal.
I’m not trying to cover everything, or pretending to. I could cover more RTW, yes, and there is some great RTW out there. But given I don’t wear it, the coverage would be much more superficial.
I don’t think the points made here are fussy ones, or all based around comparing to bespoke. A big part of the attraction here is offering a bespoke-made product either RTW or MTM, so it’s natural to cover that. I certainly wouldn’t if it were a suit from Paul Stuart or similar.
I hope that makes sense.
very interesting post indeed. Actually Germany does have quite a few tailors who could offer MTM in a similar price range. I’d rather recommend the young tailor ‘Maximilian Mogg’ located in Berlin (More details of pricing are here: https://maximilianmogg.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/20210217-Maximilian-Mogg-Price-List-valid-until-end-of-2021.pdf ). Unlike Massura, his MYM service is not based on any existing RTW patterns, instead, he will take all the measurements to create a unique pattern for all customers. He has several lines to suit different customers, the basic MTM is made in Poland, the bespoke is made in the UK. I owned one MTM Chesterfield long navy overcoat which is absolutely gorgeous.
You may look more on his website and instagram, which is not at all an advertisement, but rather a very personal recommendation. Cheers!
Thank you, yes I know Mr Mogg, we have chatted a fair bit and he was looking to join our pop-up.shop. It would be nice to try him at some point
I love the fabric, it is truly beautiful. But alas, Simon, I can’t possibly say the same of the tailoring. Whether it is because of the wrinkles or not, the back of this jacket seems slapdash, or hastily assembled. Also, The shoulder is either not-very-well-done spalla camicia, or it is just not very well done. The fabric at the top is bunched up in an uneven way. Perhaps these issues can be fixed later.
Thanks again for another good written report about tailoring. And the timing is perfect, becauseI will have my second fitting for a bespoke suit with Moritz on Saturday! After that I will write about my experience with him. It`s may first Massura-suit and I`m pretty excited.
But of course you are right, this jacket needs to be fixed – I`m a bit surprised, because I also tried a MTO-Jacket when I met Moritz for the first time and the fit was good. MTM in general is not that easy, my experience so far. Thanks again for your insights and have a nice week,
I am curious as to why you are not using the trousers more often because of the colour?
Yes, and the material is just a bit smart for that colour I find. Still used, but not often
I had bad “bespoke” experience with Massura, which would require whole article to detail, since not everything is black and white.
To be fair, Moritz is accommodative to requests and receptive, however, in my case, did not deliver consistent result. Not sure if this is 100% his fault, since now he works with Naples house, which he officially do not disclose.
I can just advise to be very controlling starting at the basted fitting, because starting then you will be met with lot of excuses why pants should not sit at where you want (this is the style), why back cannot be clean (due to your posture) and a lot of other, some trivial, issues. You will be promised correction later, which will be marginally improved if at all and this will iterate.
I second notice of balance issues. In my case, If I wouldn’t have brought them later, they would be ignored. I don’t care about pick stitching or hand stitched lapel if there is no balance.
Probably it does not help to say, that he is in business just 5 years and, I as far as I know, has no actual tailor experience, apart earlier working with Orazio/Dalcuore as traveling fitter.
I would like young business to succeed and hopefully this is just my single experience.
Thanks for the review. What’s the folio you’re carrying, please?
It’s from Chester Mox. There’s an article coming up on it – we were shooting it at the same time
Is the review of the portfolio case still forthcoming?
Yes, it just went back for a fix and I’m waiting on that
Very interesting article Simon and thank you for an honest review. Actually I tried the MTM service when he was in Zurich last year. We had one fitting and I received the final jacket a few weeks later and I am quite happy so far. I was surprised to see that you have those issues at the back of the jacket. I find it hard to imagine how to assess the fit of a tailored product virtually.
I’m very much looking forward to the follow up to see how the fit of the jacket has improved.
Thanks René, really good to get your experiences added. I know Moritz would not have allowed the jacket to be kept if it was obvious what the issues with the back were. And we agree this is a real issue with virtual appointments: not just trying to assess adjustments, but trying to get a sense of the finished product too.
On the surface, the outcome of this jacket is a little disappointing. However as you have noted, that may be more down to how your particular physique interacts with the MTM blocks. Someone else could have a totally different experience given their shape/size. It’s hard to know how to fairly evaluate this offering and that additional risk would put me off.
True. We have had some nice comments from other readers above, which are mostly positive. But it is hard when there aren’t lots of reviews out there
I actually considered Massura for a commission a while ago. The main reason I did not go with them was that the only endorsements I could find were by the same 3-4 people who appear to be close personal friends with Moritz on Instagram. This isn’t as such a problem, but the question I had and which I did not know the answer to was whether these people received a level of service which would reflect that which I might receive.
The one thing I did find, and which you might have mentioned, is your previous experience with Moritz, who was then working for Orazio Luciano. That experience, too, IIRC, left something to be desired, though arguably the circumstances were rather different.
In any case, it’s difficult. I know you say that much for MTM depends on the block and the possibility to make certain kinds of changes to it and that this means that even where what changes are possible were well executed the result may not be great, depending on the client’s physique. But if I am entirely honest, for someone like me, who while interested does not know a lot about the technicalities involved, the fact that someone else did not get a good result will always be a little off-putting even if the company in question made the most of the changes its MTM system allowed for.
I don’t think that this is a constructive point, at all. If we are to accept that the result is depends on how well the “standard block” fits the body type of the client, we’re essentially disregarding the “mtm” part of the product. Now, thats a bit of a hyperbole, obviously some body types are more difficult than others, and the relationship between the body type of the consumer and the standard block will always impact the final product. However, my opinion is that what separates good mtm from bad mtm (apart from the make of end product, but that’s almost a separate question) is the ability of the company (from the person who measure to the factory that make the garment) to modify their block to suit the specific body type of the client. If the mtm has trouble with body types that deviate from their perception of a “standard” size, whats the difference between mtm and buying rtw and having it slightly altered?
It’s a bit of a grey area John. Some MTM works much more from scratch – always with some presumptions about proportions, but really starting with the measurements. Others, like here, are really adjusting a RTW block more. It really is a hard thing to describe accurately between makers, how much is being altered, but it’s certainly not all exactly the same.
I have the same body issues as you Simon, severely sloping and uneven shoulders. Protruding shoulder blades and very S shaped back posture. Through the years I have never been able to get well fitting shirts or suits. I have tried a number of MTM and off the rack, and they all fitted very badly.
In the end the only thing that works for me is full bespoke, as a consequence my wardrobe has shrunk considerably, but what I have now fits perfectly.
I think for some of us, our body shapes really needs bespoke.
Many thanks for the review Simon. We appreciate your feedback you shared with us about the fit and the quality of the MTM product during the process as well as in this article. You rightly mention the strengths and weaknesses of the jacket and point out areas of improvements. It is a very fair assessment of the fit and we can echo that the fit at the back is very different to the front of the jacket. We also agree that the concept of virtual fittings did not work out as well as we expected.
As discussed in the follow up, we look forward to have the fit assessment in person next time we are in London. This is what we offer to all of our customers and is critical to ensure that the final product meets our standards and the expectation of our customer. Furthermore, we appreciate to have the chance to follow up on the progress of this jacket and the MTM program after we made the final adjustments to the product. We will not settle until this product will meet the standard of our tailoring principles and your expectation to a sartorial MTM product.
Thank you Moritz, great to know.
Has there been a follow-up fitting? I hope so, such beautiful fabric needs to be worn but unless corrected, such an ill-fitting jacket would be hidden in my closet.
Unfortunately no, there’s been no follow-up and I’ve assumed it’s not going to happen now unfortunately
Btw, I like the single button cuff.
The ideal tailoring that would turn that jacket around would be an integrated back waistband. Then I would just refer to it as a Hunting Blazer/Sport Jacket Hybrid.
Do you think? It’s not a style I’d like myself, it might look a little too much like a bastardisation of the style, but hard to know for sure without seeing it
I can just guess why there is no follow up… But I can tell you that this guy used to do tailoring with some undisclosed producer in Italy. What he does is MTM from the block albeit with basted fitting. He used to even sell it as bespoke to some customers, but the result was poor. He was/is 30% cheaper than Jean Manuel Moreau who does similar service via Orazio Luciano, but the result is also correspondingly lower.
Wonderful cloth Simon, the colour & texture looks excellent. Just had a quick look and it looks like the cloth is currently out of stock – Shame!
Thanks for the excellent post / review – as always.
thanks for writing about your experience with Moritz. He is a very dedicated specialist and creates wonderful garments with the help of his Italian sources. I would like to add that there is a vibrant and active culture of young bespoke tailors as well as MTM specialists in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. In my younger days as director at Scabal, I had the pleasure to bring together a young tailors group which still exists today. Nowadays, being an agent for all textile things beautiful and British I still visit many of them regularily and find them very active indeed. Bernie Roetzel – author of “the gentleman” writes regularily about them.
Thoughtful response from Moritz echoes what I particularly like about these artisans. He recognizes a suboptimal result but will make it right. Similar to my tailor. Three simple words “I will fix it”. No pushback. No dodge. Their name is over the front door. They stand behind their work. Bravo Moritz.
Hi Simon! Thank you for this review, very helpful. Me personally, I am very satisfied Massura’s customer. Me and Moritz became good friends over time and I truly appreciate the work he is doing with Massura. All my garments, bespoke or MTM, fit perfectly, and even when we experienced some issues with the fit, Moritz was always dedicated to fix them. Not to say that their price / value ratio is outstanding. Its a shame that this jacket turned out not as you would have expected, as in my experience, that was not the case. I also doubt that Moritz would have let something like that go as a final product to the customer. Probably virtual fittings did not work as expected. I look forward to the follow-up and to see more of Massura / reviews of German tailoring.
Thanks Vlad, and good to hear your experience too
I’m far from an expert but that jacket is an awful fit on the back. Just looks wrong. You’ve been very kind to them Simon!
Well… sorry to say this, but the fit is not so good Simon on this one.
The back is not acceptable, clearly.
I would not have collected it in this state.
Details and finishing look like Orazio Luciano. But with an even cheaper make.
As I mentioned, I had my second fitting with Moritz for a bespoke suit (my first one). To be honest, I can`t say anything good or bad about it due to my lack of experience with a bespoke fitting. But we discussed your review and Ím really excited about the next step, because he seems to be a real sportsman and can take a challenge. I keep my fingers crossed.
I`d like to spend some thoughts about MTM in general, because I made some more or less bad experiences (as I mentioned above). Two main points I`d like to mention: To me it seems to be a kind of tailoring that is a little bit „stuck in the middle“: It`s not really bad, but also not really good. I own 6 MTM suits from several German tailors (one of them is also mentioned in this forum) and they are all average but not really satisfying. Considering the price (about 2.000 €) and all the effort the customer has to make like traveling to the fitting and wait several months for the suit in my opinion it is not really worth it. Despite of all the promises I was made that MTM is as good as bespoke. And the second ist, that the tailor has to be one, who really knows his business and who is a real good craftsman. Otherwise he won`t be able to fix all the issues after the first fitting. The tailors I know let produce the suit somewhere in Europe and the necessary fixing after the first fitting will be done with a local tailor. If this team is not able to perform, the suit will be at the lower average range.
My next attempt will be to buy a real good RTW (Edward Sexton or so) and spend money into real good tailoring. I guess that as long as the shoulders fit and the length is as preferred, the result will be as good as MTM, maybe even better, when the tailor is a real professional.
Or: My next suits will be bespoke from Moritz – depends on the result ;-).
Your comments are very interesting to me since I’m also in Germany and planning on developing a wardrobe of MTM suits in your price range.
Of course, your experiences make me rather apprehensive, especially since I’ve heard of similar outcomes from friends. And, of course, this present example illustrates these fears (though I honestly wouldn’t have expected that MTM could be as bad as in this example.) If you could give the names of the tailors you have used this would be much appreciated.
Sorry for my late response but I had a lot to do since work went back to (a new) normal. I hope you`ll understand that I don’t want to mention any tailors I had a bad experience with. Maybe other customer had a good experience and I’m not a professional like Simon to judge any tailor in a fair and objective way.
I can say that I had some pretty good experience with Max Mogg in Berlin. As far as his cut fits you and you already have some experiences in tailoring he is a good choice. He could be a challenge for a beginner, because his house style is very special which makes it difficult to judge for a beginner.
I would be interested in more details about your experience with Max Mogg. Which quality did you choose for the make and what kind of suit did you have made? In which way do you think it can be a challenge for a beginner?
I am considering ordering a pretty simple business suit (SB, plain navy).
@Simon: I know you did not yet work with Max Mogg but do you consider it a good idea to order a simple business suit from someone with such a “strong” house style? In general I like the style and thought it might be good value for money (MTM suit from 1500 €). I just fear the final suit might be a little to “loud”.
I think that’s definitely a risk, yes. If you don’t already have a few business suits, and this is a nice alternative, then I would think about it again. Being SB and plain navy is not going to hide the style
Good evening. I have two DB wintersuits: One in grey and one in navy. It’s been a MTM and I really like wearing them. The challenge in my opinion is the „strong“ house style, let me give you two examples: To be able to judge the fit of the suits, you should know, how a high-waist-trouser needs to fit. You don
t see those trouser that often and that makes it difficult for you to know if the fit is perfect or not. Second thing is the drape: You should know, how a drape works and again, thats nothing you see that often. Fortunately I know a good tailor nearby who helped me to find the best fitting with his advice.
Considering your question about a simple suit: You can have such a simple suit. Ím pretty sure it
s gonna need some discussion but at the end of the day he wants to sell a suit! Ím pretty sure its gonna be hard to get two buttons (instead of one or three) and a softer shoulder. If you can live with such a shoulder and one or three buttons, you could be happy with him.
P.S.: Sorry again for my late response
The single button on the sleeve is very unappealing
In case it makes a difference, George, it is a fairly traditional thing on sports jackets in Naples. I guess quite culture-specific
Is there any padding in the shoulders? It doesn’t appear that there is much at all. I could be wrong, but I can’t help but think that with your sloping shoulders, you’d be better off with some fairly substantial padding. I may be wrong again, but I also think that would help to give you a cleaner fit at the back, below the shoulders, too.
No there isn’t. However, I can definitively say that that isn’t the issue, because I’ve had lots of unpadded tailoring where this hasn’t been an issue. See Ciardi, Caliendo etc
My only observation about this jacket is that if I were Nicolas Templeman I would be insulted to see my work in the same ensemble!!
I was surprised to read that you wished these cav twill trousers were in a color you wore more often. Aren’t they just light beige? That strikes me as one of the most versatile trouser colors imaginable. Any particular reason why you feel you can’t wear that color often? What color cav twills would you prefer if not this one?
You’re right, the colour isn’t that unusual, and I do wear them fairly often. It’s just they’re so nice I wish they were navy or grey, basically. So worn more often still.
Also, I wear cav twills less than a few other categories of smart trousers, particularly flannels.
Fabric is out of stock unfortunately, but there is hope.
We can buy it with MOQ of 2 pieces approx. 120m
2 pieces price would be @ £13.75 / m = approx. £1650
If you are interested please contact me by leaving a reply to my comment!
I live in Denmark.
as I already mentioned I ordered a bespoke Massura summer suit and I’m happy to say, that I`m finally wearing it. It’s a very light grey summer suit and perfect for a warm summer.
About the quality: It’s definitely a good suit! The fit of the jacket and the trousers is good and there are only a few minor points I’d like to change. It’s definitely worth the money I spent. Moritz really spent a lot of time to create a perfect fitting (I’m not sure, but I think we had five meetings) and he is very accurate during the meetings. As long as the customer is not satisfied he keeps on working, which I really appreciate. I never felt any pressure and we had a good dialogue about the suit and the different options.
Finally I can recommend him for a bespoke suit. Best regards,
Thank you Lars, that’s very helpful
How did your endeavor ended with Massura?
Apart of these positive responses from people who are clearly associated with him via instagram, it’s difficult to figure out his level of service.
We haven’t had contact for a while during lockdown, but I saw him at Pitti this week and apparently he’s coming to London soon. So it will pick up again then I imagine