Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review
I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake).
My made-to-measure Anglo-Italian jacket is a good make and a good fit. It’s not something that pushes to compete with bespoke (unlike some MTM we’ve covered) but I guess that’s not Anglo-Italian’s aim - it’s one reason they sell their cloth too, so customers can use the same material for full bespoke.
It’s also quite a distinctive MTM product. Jake argues, and I think it’s fair, that a lot of of MTM out there is similar in cut and make - the thing that differentiates the better ones is overall style, the look and advice. Less the cut.
That cut is rather roomy, with a surprisingly low buttoning point. It’s very comfortable, but could just feel big to some people. The jacket doesn’t look large - as I think the photos demonstrate - but there’s a lot of room in there.
This is amplified by the make. This jacket has no shoulder pad, and it’s rare for Anglo to use one. There’s just canvas, running all the way up the front and into the shoulder.
This makes it soft and pliable - a feeling that is reinforced by the Anglo cloths. Mine (AIT30) is typical for their range: open weave, spongey in feel, with some natural stretch.
It is this, as much as the subdued colour palette, that makes a lot of the Anglo-Italian cloths feel quite contemporary, I think.
Of course, if this were a worsted suiting, the jacket would feel different. But it would also be less structured and more pliable than a worsted from somewhere else.
In this respect, the jacket reminds me more of a more casual brand like Stile Latino, and the jersey jacket I had from them a few years ago, than it does any bespoke tailors.
The Anglo is better made than the Stile Latino, though, and it’s worth running through all these aspects of make.
One obvious way in which the Anglo jacket is not at the level of bespoke or some top-end MTM is that neither the chest nor collar are hand-padded. That’s not the be-all and end-all of course, but it’s a good thing to establish first.
(It’s also something that has changed since Anglo started - my original launch piece on them in 2017 mentioned the tailoring would have a hand-padded lapel.)
Elsewhere, the make is not at the level of other top-end MTM that doesn’t have this hand padding.
The obvious comparison there is the Armoury suit I reviewed, which was made by Sant’Andrea in Italy. That was a good example of the best in the non-hand-padded category.
However, while that Armoury suit was made beautifully, it was also expensive ($2750 for an MTM jacket, compared to £1490 from Anglo-Italian).
Accessibility is a factor for Jake - it’s why he chooses to have cheaper makers for the shirts or polos, for example - and that comes across in the work included in the tailoring.
So, Anglo is not at these levels, but it does have the basics of a good jacket, such as a hand-attached collar, which is helpful to control the roll of the fronts, and some non-functional extras such as neat hand-sewn buttonholes. The finishing inside is fairly straightforward, as can be seen below.
Turning to the cut, the most obvious thing is that buttoning point.
The waist button on my jacket is 20 inches from the shoulder seam, which is the same as the lowest I’ve had from any bespoke tailor in the Style Breakdown series (Anderson & Sheppard).
However, that A&S jacket was also a touch longer - just over 31 inches, where the Anglo is just under - so proportionally this is the lowest buttoning point I have.
I do like a lower buttoning point; I wish a good number of my English and Italian jackets had lower ones. I also think it’s the direction fashion in general is going.
But this is probably a touch too low for me, and I’d likely raise it slightly on a second jacket.
As with most tailoring, it is possible to change that at Anglo-Italian. Their house style is a carefully thought-out, clearly defined one, but small changes to the buttoning point are OK.
On the flip side, there’s no point going to a tailor for a style they don’t do, and that’s particularly the case with Anglo. Given how much work Jake has put into the proportions of the jacket, it would be probably insulting to try and make it into something else.
I’d go as far as to say the main selling point of Anglo-Italian is how everything in the shop works together: styles, colours and cuts. To a certain extent, you have to take that or leave it.
Interestingly, one reason Jake likes that lower buttoning is that it gives the overall jacket a very relaxed, louche look. This is a conscious attitude with the clothing, and is influenced by modern tailors like Sartoria Ciccio in Japan, but also older English tailors like Douglas Hayward.
This is also reflected in drape that sits low on the chest, and a slightly lower armhole.
The functional benefit of the lower buttoning is that it brings that point and the waistband of the trousers closer together, reducing the likelihood of showing shirt material when you put your hands in your pockets, for example.
The two will never be the same height unless you wear real high-waisted trousers of course. But it does help.
Elsewhere, the jacket has a very natural shoulder (there is also an option with slight roping), a fairly high gorge (making the buttoning point look even lower) and a pretty straight lapel.
In fact, the lapel reflects another aspect of the Anglo cut, which is that it incorporates aspects of both English and Italian style.
The lapel is not entirely straight, otherwise it would seem to roll outward, but it also has none of the belly of English lapels. The patch pockets are definitely more curved than English ones, but not as stylised as Neapolitans.
The overall look is very soft and natural (and Neapolitan in that regard), but there are none of the showy frills of southern-Italian style - no ripples in the sleevehead, no big tack stitches, no double rows of pick stitching.
These are subtle things, but they all go to reinforcing one of the big points I made at the start, which is that the Anglo cut is surprisingly distinctive. At least, it surprised me - perhaps because I was too focused on the overall look, the cloth and colour palette.
The fit of the jacket is good. It’s a roomy jacket, which is perhaps easier to fit; but still, tricky things like my sloping shoulders and hollow back were dealt with well.
It’s not that important now, but when we had the first fitting on the jacket (a pretty much finished piece, not a basted fitting) it did feel even bigger. The changes we made were all to shape it more: taking in the waist on the side seams and in the back, and shortening the sleeves.
In the end, I think readers will buy Anglo-Italian for their style. It is the thing that I think is genuinely different, and attractive.
So it matters less whether the quality of the jacket is a tiny bit better or worse than another, or another brand offers the same level for £200 more or less.
It is not a competitor for bespoke, and I'll carry on using bespoke (I am, in fact, about to use some Anglo-Italian cloth with Sartoria Ciardi).
But for others, the decent quality and modern style mean Anglo-Italian should be considered alongside anything else at this price level.
In the images I am wearing a deliberately Anglo ‘look’:
- Ready-made shirt, Anglo-Italian, £150
- Wool tie, Anglo-Italian, £120
- Grey flannel trousers, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
- Brown-suede loafers, Edward Green
Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jackets start at £1490 (including VAT) and go up in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200 (the latter just for cashmere). House cloths are normally the lowest price, the same as mine.
Made-to-measure suits vary in the same levels from £1760 to £2100. Trousers are £450.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Very interesting, thank you Simon. And for continuing to cover MTM. These are the pieces I enjoy most as I can realistically afford them.
Can I ask how you feel the design and make compares to Prologue? It seems they both favour a low buttoning point, but Prologue’s flares out more below the button.
The design is rather different I would say. Lower buttoning point still, straighter lapel, less flare as you say. Really Prologue draws more on Florentine traditions.
On the make side, Prologue has some more handwork in there, which of course is cheaper being made in China rather than Italy.
Thanks Simon. I was considering Anglo MTM but then changed my mind last minute – I bought a ring jacket on sale rom Drop93 (I am a very standard size) and expect minor tweaks for fit.
Not going to get the exact same design / fit that I desire but given Covid times, I felt spending £600 on my first decent tweed jacket was more defensible than £1,500 for my bank balance!
How are the AI shirts, however? I need to get a few more and undecided between them, Mercer MTO and Drakes. I had a few drakes oxfords but they shrank a bit more than I would have expected and now look v TopMan
I’m a little biased when it comes to the oxford shirts, as I designed the PS ones to be what I like: a slightly heavier, slubbier material designed to be more like traditional oxfords, a slightly higher collar and roll, and functional handwork.
The AI ones and Drake’s ones are nice, but are at a lower quality point in terms of the functional handwork. They also have a lower collar.
All oxfords shrink a little, and particularly the more casual ones. Always worth getting advice from the maker/brand on that.
What size (RTW) would you take of your shirts, large?
Sorry for endless stream of Qs. Any shrinkage on denim or just oxford? Any tips on measuring (use another shirt)?
Oxford is always the worst. Shouldn’t be any real shrinkage on denim.
And yes, the best thing to do is always compare measurements to those of a shirt you own.
What’s your opinion of Mercer OCBD?
I talked about the cloth a bit in the launch of our oxfords – more details here.
I do like their fabric, when I’ve seen it on friends, even if I prefer ours. It has a lovely feel to it.
I don’t think the Mercer style is for me though – too big a body, too soft a collar.
That’s great, thank you Simon! I have a sb cashmere rtw and db linen mtm suit and would absolutely second all of your points. Their style is great and super relevant so I wish them all the best! Out of curiosity, which cloth are you using with Ciardi? Also, what do you think of 016 if you had to have a single brown herringbone in your wardrobe?
I’m using 005 with Ciardi. 016 is really nice, I guess only point is it’s a fairly strong/warm colour, so less formal
Thanks a lot for the detailed review Simon. I have been curious about the Anglo-Italian MTM offering since I became aware of it. Can you please clarify what is the difference between “cut” and “style”, for example where you say that what differentiates better MTM offerings is the style rather than the cut? I feel I have some inkling of what you mean but it would be really helpful if you could put the distinction in words.
By the way, I also found this amusing: “In fact, the lapel reflects another aspect of the Anglo[-Italian] cut, which is that it incorporates aspects of both English and Italian style.” 🙂
You’re right, we do with some more precise words here!
By style, I generally mean the overall look of the brand: the fabrics they pick, the colours they put together, the advice they give to customers on that.
By cut, I mean much more narrowly, the lines of the tailoring they offer.
So a lot of (usually cheaper) MTM brands don’t really change the models they can get from a factory, and indeed once they have a model, few changes are possible to it. They sell more on the brand and overall look.
You’ve gotta stop it Simon, the first photo in this and the last photo in your Armoury MTM… geez son… what a cutie 😛
Very helpful review that comes across as being quite fair: good style, respectable make and a reasonable price.
Interesting that over time you emphasise more and more the importance of style in your reviews. It’s easy to get lost in the “objective” qualities offered by different makers/brands but ultimately what’s important is how the garment makes you look and feel.
I love the fabric too.
Interesting point, and I think that’s right.
On the one hand, the vast majority of men that buy clothes don’t pay enough attention to fit and to quality.
But on the other, some enthusiasts of menswear can get too lost in these details, and not see the style overall.
It’s a balance to strike I guess.
Fair and objective reviews as always Simon – thank you. Like other readers, I have been waiting for this review for some time as I’m thinking about going to AI for a jacket.
I have to say that to me, the first photo embedded in the text (you front on with wall behind you) does make the jacket look a little big on you. I can’t work out why.
I am tall, narrow and have sloping shoulders – based on your review, the AI house style may not be for me! I guess an appointment and a chat with AI would bottom this out …
I think so, yes. Unlike most tailors, they do have RTW jackets made at the same factory, in the same style, so it’s definitely worth trying them on first to get a sense of it first hand.
I may not buy from them but it is good to see some entry level MTM with a distinct style.
Thank you for an interesting article. I have a question related to the outfit. I have found your advice on sufficient contrast very helpful. It is still a challenge though and I would probably have deemed the trousers in your ensemble to close in colour to the jacket to feel that there was sufficient contrast. Would you share your thoughts on this Simon and whether this was a close call or not for you?
It wasn’t, NP, but I think that’s because the colours in the photos aren’t perfectly realistic. The jacket is actually darker and greener, both of which points help with the contrast.
The article lives up to the anticipation built up over your review of Anglo-Italian. Thank you!
I gather from what you wrote that AI is not at par with Saman Amel and Moreau’s MTM offerings. Whereabouts would you rank it? Also, would you know if a narrower lapel is possible with AI?
You mentioned The Armoury’s MTM offering – hope you can do one for The Armoury Hongkong’s MTM based on the Ring Jacket model too! Many thanks again.
On the pure making points we discussed, no it’s not at the same level as JMM or Saman Amel (Napoli line – the other lines are made differently).
On the lapel of the AI jacket, no I wouldn’t change it much. I’m sure it’s possible to make a small tweak, but as I said, buy into it for the work that’s gone into the style.
I will do one of the Ring Jacket range from Armoury too at some point. It’s changing at the moment, but previously this was only possible to do with Ring trunk shows, and I was never there at the right time. Thanks.
A really good article, Simon. Thank you.
I think the AI offering is excellent, with the style, advice offered and price point being perfect for someone like me. In fact the advice is invaluable to create simple and coherent wardrobe, and likely avoid an expensive mistake or two.
I like their “democratic” approach and they are also very affable and great company.
I would be very interested on your opinion on AIT-28 and AIT-61 for two jackets. I think that could create quite an appealing Winter-Summer combination and the foundations of the simple capsule you have mentioned before?
AIT-28 is nice and you’re right, would be a good navy jacket. It is quite heavy though, perhaps a little too much if someone wanted just one navy casual jacket in the wardrobe.
AIT-61 is nice too and is definitely an attractive shade. Something slightly darker would be even more versatile, and the windowpane might be a little loud or traditional for some people, but that’s about it.
Of course, with these two jackets you’re also getting a brown for summer, a navy for winter. So no smarter one for summer, more casual for winter etc.
Excellent article, Simon. Thx. In the first straight-on photo, the jacket looks quite large to me. Too large, but in the side and rear views, the fit looks terrific as it does in the more relaxed poses. The quirks of 2-D photography, I suppose. The style and price point seem an excellent match for the times, dressy enough w tie, but otherwise very relaxed.
Long time listener, first time caller….. thanks for another very interesting post Simon. Like one of the other readers, I love this kind of post as bespoke isn’t quite what I’m looking for right now.
In full transparency, I’m a customer of Anglo Italian and I really think that what they’re doing overall (MTM, RTW, Cloth, retail, online) is about as complete an offer as anyone else out there right now, certainly whilst remaining a small business. In terms of the product, I mainly only compare it to other MTM or RTW I own +\- 20% on price, and I think quality-wise it’s as good as anything I’ve tried, if not better. But for me the offer is far more than the sum of the parts, in that it’s a great service experience whenever I’m there, I like the cloths they use particularly in their RTW and house cloths for MTM, I really appreciate the advice they give and overall I think they have excellent taste (which is surprisingly rather hard to find these days – plenty of people can make you a jacket, but not many can make you feel certain that you’ve made the right choice overall when wearing it after).
So for me personally, I’ll take an Anglo Italian garment any day of the week over a garment from another maker with more hand padding etc, but that has a far less identifiable style and lower service experience.
Just my two cents for anyone thinking of trying the brand.
That’s really useful, thanks. It is surprising, I agree, how little of it there is out there. It’s hard to even think of shops in London that would have good flannels, good oxford shirts, good overcoats, and have the taste to be able to recommend them. Too many are driven by hype or trying to be different every season.
did you manage to try on / have a look at their garment washed trousers?
This is so timely; I’ve been gearing up to get my first MTM sports jacket and had been leaning towards AI over, say, Drakes, for that Neapolitan-esque style. Thanks so much for the detailed breakdown on the cut, price and style; this has convinced me that they would be the perfect choice as a first foray into good quality casual tailoring
Beautiful jacket, I really love the AI style. I would love to see a more detailed review/styling options for their Splash Top that you featured in the Summer Top Five. I heard that as soon as you posted about it they sold like hot cakes!
I’m very tempted by an Anglo-Italian db having tried one rtw example on recently. There’s something about their style and marketing presentation (maybe in common with Drake’s) that feels very appropriate and contemporary for a modern London lifestyle. Making tailoring more relevant if you will. That said I don’t feel this jacket is so successful for you but I’m struggling to work out why. Do you think there’s anything to this or is it just me? Might the style better work for people with eg different body types, personal styles, ages or something else I haven’t thought of?
I guess it depends why you think it doesn’t work so well for me? Which of those things that you list maybe don’t work?
I’d say the colour and texture of the jacket and trousers appear slightly too close to each other in the photos. It gives it a slightly awkward “not quite part of a pair” look.
The jacket cloth also looks quite spongy and therefore comes across as full, while the trousers (flannel?) still look quite sharp. That contrast in “cut” or “fit” also creates an odd contrast.
Yes, the photos aren’t really accurate in that regard – the jacket is darker and stronger in colour in reality, so there isn’t really that issue.
The second point is accurate though, and it’s not one I have a problem with, myself. The trousers are flannel, though even with a crease aren’t super sharp. Still, I’d be happy wearing high-twist wool, which would be sharper, with something this spongey (if it were lighter in weight of course)
Thank you for reviewing. Great to have these MTM reviews and look forward to more.
For me, their style is a nod to English aristocracy, boarding school and the countryside. Some guys will buy into that, others will find it a little odd. But for an urbane customer, it would seem that the offering is not as modern or perhaps as relevant as Saman Amel.
Also, back in 2017, the Anglo Italian prices for suiting and jacketing (with hand padded lapels) were considerably cheaper than they are now. So for a higher price, craft is reduced in place of style?
I can’t really comment on the price point Charles. But on the style, yes I agree – the AI achievement is to make a more country look appear younger and perhaps more modern. But it’s still not as city as some.
It does appear prices have increased. Both Simon and Derek over at Die Workwear noted that when they opened jackets were around £1000, and suits £1300. Suits are now just under £1500 and jackets just under £1300.
Link from Die Workwear: https://dieworkwear.com/2017/08/09/the-la-dolce-vita-look-in-london/
Link to initial PS piece: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/anglo-italian-jake-grantham-and-alex-pirounis-open-in-london.html
That depends a lot on the cloth you choose: They’ve always hovered around 1500 for house cloth for a suit.
Doesn’t this largely depend on what cloth you order and how you accessorise it? A tweed jacket with wool tie will of course feel a little countrified, but I have a grey worsted suit from Anglo which I love wearing with a crisp white shirt and dark tie, or with dark knitwear – sharp and urbane. I don’t think their cut or style is inherently ‘country’, I think it is inherently very comfortable, relaxed, and chic.
You’re right Grant, I think with more business clothing there’s less of that, and it’s more uniform across brands. I guess it’s more the case when you compare more casual tailoring
As you say, this is really a matter of personal preference although I’m not quite sure what you mean about not being relevant to an urbane customer. I’m a Londoner and could never get away with what I see from Saman Amel on Instagram (which tends to be someone with shoulder length hair wearing an ivory suit and a tee shirt). It may look great in a lookbook but just wouldn’t be suitable to my lifestyle.
On the other hand, I could wear literally anything from the AI collection and it wouldn’t seem out of place either at work or in the pub with friends. But then again I’m British and went to public school, so maybe I’m just proving your point…
I would definitely agree with you on price though. If Anglo have increased their price that significantly then they need to be careful not to keep going higher. It reminds me a bit of Edward Green, where shoes 5 years ago were c. 7/800 and now are north of 1100. Meanwhile inflation has been practically flat… it leaves a bitter taste in the mouth and even if customers continue buying now, they won’t indefinitely!
I agree with you when it comes to the look books from Saman Amel. But their MTM offering is much broader. I have a quite classic wardrobe with flannel and cavalry twill trousers, business suits and different kind of sport coats. I think that Saman gives you the oppurtunity to get most of the things you want but with a modern style. I am a loyal and happy customer.
I like the lower button point I think it looks good on you, and the jacket length, although a bit short, isn’t what I would call a bum freezer, and I think looks good as well. I prefer a slightly shorter jacket to say your Huntsman jacket that I feel is too long. Arms look a little roomy, but that is my only complaint, overall a good looking piece.
Thank you Simon – an interesting article like always!
I do agree with much of what you said. However, on the point of fit I unfortunately had a very frus-trating experience with Anglo Italian.
I had a linen odd jacket made and the fit was not great to start with. The jacket seemed unbalanced, the cut was rather too roomy and around the neck and lapels, it simply did not fit at all.
I discussed those issues and the jacket was adjusted accordingly. This however did not solve any of the afore mentioned issues. Jake suggested that the jacket being made out of a linen cloth wearing it in for some time would solve these problems. I was not convinced. Apart from the fact that the is-sues where not minor I would not wear an ill-fitting jacket for a couple of months to rectify problems that should have been dealt with in the making of it.
I went to see my usual tailor in London to have the jacket fixed only to find that he had already eight suits/jackets in for adjustments from Anglo Italian all with similar issues.
Most of the problems where fixed but especially the ill-fitting shoulders are not easy to rectify and consequently it is a jacket that sits in my wardrobe and will probably never be worn…
I am sure Jake would like to hear of this and I will tell him in person next time I am in London. In the meantime, I have to say that apart from their MTM service their offering is quite good!
Thanks AS, good to have a range of experiences.
Aren’t the jacket seams to its arms rather more on the arm than usual?
I think the center button is in the right place.
I haven’t had a jacket from them, but the trousers and other stuff I’ve gotten from them are terrific and are not expensive considering the high quality. Great store, people, selection, and service. They have become one of my favorites stores.
Thanks Simon! I’ve loved my experience with the AI team. I am based out of the US but get to London with some regularity and one of the things I always look forward to most is popping into the boutique and placing a couple of orders. The final product has always been perfect and even though I am not close in proximity, they always take great care of me. Thanks for the review!
I’m less charitable than Simon regarding the problems he’s pointed out. The low buttoning point doesn’t look louche to me; the front end just looks unbalanced. Along with the wide cut, the buttoning point makes Simon’s chest look droopy rather than prominent. Perhaps this style can work with a thinner, crisper fabric in a brighter color. It certainly doesn’t work here.
A head to head comparison certainly justifies the higher price of the Armoury jacket.
The roomier jacket looks good on you. It is reminiscent of–if the reference isn’t too obscure–the jacket Cary Grant wore in BRINGING UP BABY (1938). You know: the type of thing you toss on with grey flannels while you’re hunting leopards in Connecticut with Katherine Hepburn. Which, hopefully, you have more sense than to try to actually do.
I’ve had a few suits, odd jackets and trousers made through their MTM program and can confidently say that they are the best-fitting pieces of clothing I own. I find the cut very flattering, contemporary and extremely comfortable to wear. I am a younger guy so tend not to go with the more traditional English fabrics but instead more contemporary options, of which AI has plenty on offer through their MTM program. At this price point I would seriously struggle to find a better alternative in terms of make, quality and fit.
I have had a number of bespoke pieces made but in the end whether or not you wear them regularly comes down to how comfortable you feel wearing them, both in terms of fit and style. I found that the AI team provides excellent advice in this regard, which is why I wear their suits / jackets / trousers much more regularly than my bespoke pieces.
I can only urge everybody to check them out for themselves. They’re super relaxed and I never felt pressured to buy anything.
Thanks for your review. What do you know about the canvas used in their jackets?
I can check for details, but I’m pretty sure it’s a standard chest canvas – not horsehair etc. Is that what you were after?
Yes please. My alterations guy commented that the canvas was unique. I suppose it may be an intentional choice, lending to the overall style described here as roomy, louche, soft, etc.. This is what I am curious about.
It may well make a difference, yes, though having just the one layer and no shoulder pad will make more of a difference.
I’d also be surprised if the canvas is unique – I’d guess the alterations tailor hasn’t done that much on different makes of bespoke and MTM from France, Italy etc?
Hello Simon, I particularly like the photo where your arms are folded. The jacket looks spot on. Relaxed; almost cardigan-like.
The cloth is neat, interesting, and different.
Out of curiosity, with all of the bespoke tailoring in your wardrobe, how much of the mtm that you have commissioned recently do you plan on keeping/wearing regularly?
Good question. Certainly my Jean-Manuel Moreau linen, and I do like my Saman Amel jacket. The Orazio pink cord I’m having adjusted at the moment and we’ll see how it comes back.
But the point about style comes back again too, in that I’m almost as likely to keep a piece of tailoring because I like the style and the cloth (the colour of the linen in the Armoury is particularly great). I think that’s why I say high-end MTM is good enough for most people – even for me, if I love the cloth and style, it’s something I’ll wear a lot.
These days I vacillate between A&S and AI when it comes to the little tailoring that I buy.
With regards to make, they are quite different and I suspect nothing will ever fit me as well as my A&S be-spokes but that comes at a price.
What they both have in common is a great louche look and were AI really score is by offering a great style with a reasonable quality and at an accessible price.
Personally, I think the jacket you model looks better on you than much you have commissioned at twice the price. It has great style and their cloths are really quite distinctive and surely the equation between price and £ per wear must be a consideration for any thinking flaneur.
The occasions for wearing tailoring are just getting less and less and when they come about it is the casual suit that is de rigour for all but the most formal of occasions.
This is really were AI score big time. They have incredible style.
The last thing I bought from them was off the peg. It was a DB linen tennis blazer in off white. It is a pure summer jacket that looks amazing with jeans and loafers and is as louche as hell. Although I don’t wear it a whole lot, I’ll get a few seasons out of it and at the price paid, I won’t feel guilty.
Great style with great service. Long may they reign !
What struck me first, looking at the front on and rear shots, was how well the fit was for you’re shoulders, both right and left follow you’re shape nicely. From the rear, is the left shoulder more rounded than the right, or are my eyes deceived by the mortar lines?? Cheers, Clifton
I think that’s just your eyes. Particularly given how soft and open the cloth is, that will change at the first turn of the shoulder too
I have an MTM Anglo Italian suit and an MTM broken twill grey tweed jacket — they are both terrific and lovely to wear. Will be back for more.
Not perhaps for dandies or peacocks — instead reliable and stylish essentials — in their handsome restrained palette.
And very nice to deal with — Alex gave me top notch Florentine restaurant and bar tips for a recent trip.
Looks very ‘full’ , ‘roomy’ , lacking in silhouette etc
Rather like a Trunk Clothiers one I have.
But that’s more personal taste.
My question is why £1490 plus ?
Is it largely the cost of the cloth or where and how it’s manufactured ?
As per a previous comment I’ve also noted some ‘brands’ markup pricing once ‘featured’ on PS.
Or am I mistaken in that belief ?
It’s a good MTM make from Italy Robin – you’re always going to be paying over £1000 for that. And then you pay for the work to create something different, rather than a standard model, in an original cloth, with great service and a nice shop.
It could be a bit cheaper, maybe, but not a lot.
And no, fortunately I don’t think there’s any correlation there! The prices quoted for what AI originally cost are from when they launched and theres been pretty much no PS coverage between then and now.
Would love to have a jacket made by AI sometime.
Something that comes up on the site regularly is the color filters used by the photographers you work with. It looks atmospheric, but frankly, from these photos I couldn’t tell whether the cloth is charcoal, brown or green. On another recent article (I forgot which) I first thought a white oxford was pink.
I know we’re not striving for scientific accuracy here, and I can enjoy the romance of a tinged photo, but since color is so crucial to your discourse, I think it would make sense to meet halfway and aim for slightly more realistic colors.
Thanks Sam, and noted. I think sometimes it’s easy to forget the accuracy point.
Highly agree here. A SC lookbook might be something different, but when we are essentially doing analysis on clothes and colour paring – accuracy is crucial
I find the point about a roomy cut interesting because I haven’t had that experience. I’ve had a few commissions and I wore my first one today just to verify I wasn’t imagining things – I would say the suits I’ve had made by AI are quite slim fitting. Not tight, but the cut is fairly modern and sporty; it’s also relatively short and open.
I also find the point about price vs quality interesting. In case anyone is interested, in London I’ve had suits made by P Johnson, Cad and the Dandy, Anglo Italian, Anthology and Solito. I think that represents a fair spread of MTM to reasonably priced bespoke. If we define quality to mean consistency and longevity – rather than fancy application or specific areas of hand-work – then AI sits well in that company (in terms of quality and price). Funnily enough, although Solito might have the most “hand work” put into it (being bespoke), it’s probably the worst in terms of consistency and longevity. The one outlier in the group, when you compare quality to price, is Anthology, who can provide a higher level of make at a similar price to MTM because, I assume, lower costs in their supply chain. A very interesting point going forward with lower-cost Asian tailoring services improving in quality.
Finally, totally agreed regarding style – at the end of the day, most MTM tailors have a house style that they don’t deviate too much from, for a variety of reasons. Style (other than cloth) is probably also the most noticeable aspect of a suit. The AI style I like – I find it to be quite sporty and modern and the lapel proportions (especially relative to the soft shoulder) are quite distinct for MTM in London.
Thanks M, and a great comparison.
Perhaps some inconsistency with the AI fit in that case. The comparison on Solito is certainly accurate, and I think is partly a result of comparing the top of one category with the bottom of another, if that makes sense.
I agree with you. I was in London and tried on their trial jackets and was surprised how slim it was. Almost borderline tight and I was told that it was my size. And I’m a small and skinny guy. I much prefer the looser, relaxed look You got with your mtm jacket. I would’ve probably ordered a sport coat if it fit me that way, but I didn’t because I didn’t want to spend $1400 and have a jacket I wouldn’t wear. I ended up with some jeans instead.
I think this is a pretty honest and helpful review. It’s not as poetic or emotional as your reviews of Cifonelli or Michael Brown but it’s useful for those of us with finite currency units to spend on tailoring. The roominess makes me think it would be a good jacket for layering with knitwear or a gilet. Choose the right fabric and it might be a good MTM jacket to copy your look from this post: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/11/harris-tweed-jacket-and-jeans.html
True. I think I’d still prefer a real tweed for that kind of thing, but that is very personal
The low button very much reminds me of an Armani suit I had in the mid 1980’s. It was a beautiful suit for the time but I never could get accustom to it. I looked through their website and I think I’d do it in DB.
Thank you! As always, good info!
Simon, I think you’ve touched on two important points regarding the Anglo Italian jacket: the lower button stance is both more comfortable and better looking; the jacket is very comfortable (roomy inside, slimmingly stylish outside). My own feeling is that this is one of the best M-T-M jackets I’ve ever seen.
Firstly I’d like to say that the pictures look fantastic in this article.
I’m lucky enough to own an AI jacket, I almost didn’t end up getting one actually, but I’m very glad I did. I always get compliments when I wear it out, and it makes me feel super confident. Maybe it’s just in my head, maybe it’s something to do with the cut.
I actually forgot how much I paid for it, and your article reminded me how competitively priced it actually was vs other competition, which to your point are a little better in quality but certainly not ahead in price or distinctiveness.
Great write up as usual! You’ve inspired me to pop in and see the guys at AI again (next time I’m in London)…. Might be time to pick up another jacket in time for winter.
Received my Solito jacket in the same cloth at the beginning of summer. Living in Madrid haven’t had the chance to properly break it in as the cloth is quite heavy and warm. I love the muted colour in the flesh and the spongy hand, it wears almost like a jersey but it’s still versatile enough to dress it up a bit as you’ve done in your shoot. Enjoy it Simon. Cheers
This is a very balanced review, which must have been challenging to pull off considering your preference for bespoke and the number of AI acolytes who comment on PS articles. Well done, Simon.
I actually think this jacket looks great on you. While your points about the jacket being roomy make sense based on the pictures, it does looks very wearable – comfy and stylish. I would love to know if you find yourself reaching for it more than expected as a consequence in the coming weeks.
I think what makes AI appealing, for me at least, is the combination of cut, texture and muted palettes. There is an understated sophistication to the look and feel that is all too rare.
Having purchased two RTW AI sport jackets in the past and an RTW suit, I can perhaps provide some helpful insight on the fit. At 5ft 9in with a 43-inch chest I find an AI 40 (50) fits me like a glove. I have no need for MTM as a consequence. I have very strong, straight shoulders, big upper arms and a rectangular torso – think rugby player build (although I am not one). I therefore fit the cut and style perfectly.
Alex at AI is very charming, but I believe he was being sincere when he fitted me last year and expressed surprise at what a perfect match the cut was – I could feel that the moment I pulled the jacket on. Simon, is taller, slimmer at the waist and very well proportioned physically, so I can immediately understand why the jacket feels roomy to him, although perhaps this should not be the case with an MTM commission.
The big mystery is why the AI cut is made for someone with my physique – I haven’t found any other RTW that is, although Drake’s is reasonably close. Maybe I just got lucky as a consequence of the ‘louche’ philosophy?
In short, if you have a rugby player physique, strong shoulders, train your upper body hard with weights etc then AI RTW or MTM could work really well on you.
Funny – while the second photo (straight-on, buttoned) made the jacket look *very* roomy to my eye, I found myself liking it more the further I got down in the article. Seems super relaxed/comfortable, but not in a sloppy way.
Wondering if this cut/make might be particularly suited to heavier cloth, maybe even quasi-outerwear?
Hi Simon. Great read! AI is one of the MTM options I’m looking to try next after having a good experience with their RTW line. There’s something about their DB jackets that really appeal to me, maybe it has more to do with Jake’s styling but it sees to be easy, modern cut for a classic style. Did you take a look at their double-breasted offering? Any thoughts on how their house DB style would work for a Navy blazer in a three-season, travel-friendly wool?
I like the DB, though I do think it’s interesting that it’s the one piece of theirs that has a very noticeable style point – that sharp curve at the buttoning point
That’s a good point, that curve is rather distinct. Hopefully, I’ll be able to see in person someday before deciding. Thanks!
Abit of a side track but I think anglo italian had some of the best online customer service in my opinion. Their replies are very quick and jake in particular is incredibly helpful. I wish to purchase more from them but their stocks run out quick and some of their styles are not for me
Miss you wearing pocket squares. This jacket and overall look would be exquisitely simple and elegant with a white linen/cotton pocket square. Without pocket square the look is bland and almost monochromatic. Gives impression of someone buying well made and well fitted clothes yet not understanding that a small detail like a pocket square sets a well dressed gentlemen apart from someone who does not understand attention to detail. No one stuffed a pocket square better than you. Please go back to the finished touch of nonchalant aplomb of a pocket square that you did so well.
I completely get your point, and I do still wear them.
But I also think that, outside of the isolation of a style article, nothing makes someone stand out and risk looking foppish, today, than a pocket square. It’s unfortunate, but true
Simon, I certainly understand the risk of appearing foppish. That can be accomplished in many ways other than pocket square. You had the ability to use a pocket square without appearing that way. I think in the era of “no tie with a suit or jacket” business dress that the pocket square can become the “new tie”. It can add some color or detail that ties used to provide. It keeps the man that wears a suit without a tie from looking like he just forgot to wear a tie— as so many do today.
I would offer to you that would be a great article. Also, reminding the no tie guys to wear a shirt collar that does not submarine under collar/lapel of a jacket then finished off by a non-foppish addition of an understated pocket square.
Thanks Jimmy. It is something we discussed in this article recently. I’m not sure if you saw it.
It’s salutary, if nothing else, how long ago it was that the pocket square was being presented as the new tie.
I dont mean to be rude but if anyone could be described as foppish it is you Simon … the definition below to confirm 😉
adj. (of a man) concerned with his clothes and appearance in an affected and excessive way.
Well, no, it’s not that rude, though I certainly try not to appear affected, so I’m disappointed if you think I do.
If you are concerned with your clothes in an affected and excessive way then you’re a fop by definition. I guess it depends on what you define as affected and excessive but these days anything more than wearing a high street suit, or dress down jeans and t probably ticks the box. Most of the men on this blog would also fall into the same category. Its curious you have a negative interpretation of being a fop. Why is that? Is there a reason why women taking care in their appearance is seen as normal and encouraged but men doing the same are seen in a less positive light? Perhaps a philosophical topic for a future post?
Well, that definition is a negative one. Appearing affected is hard to see positively – obviously trying to create an effect.
That’s different from just taking care of your appearance.
Collins defines affected as … ‘behaving, speaking, etc, in an artificial or assumed way, esp in order to impress others’. Im wondering why that is seen as particularly negative in a man. Is it the not behaving ‘naturally’ (whatever natural is), or is it the wanting to impress others? Since men are discouraged (usually) from growing our hair like hippies and practises such as shaving and other grooming encouraged I assume its more to do with the desire to impress others? Why is this disapproved of in men but not in women? Women are encouraged to wear makeup and adopt other artificial means of changing appearance such as false nails in order to impress others (who are usually men). Is it that a man is supposed to pursue higher ideals? War, or Business in more recent times, or maybe something society considers more important? It brings to mind Kiplings poem If … with the line “…and yet don’t look too good, nor talk too wise” … ending with “…and – which is more – you’ll be a Man, my son”. Women have confided to me in the past that they find men who take too much care in their appearance unattractive, how they judge too much is open to interpretation. Is male vanity hardwired into the human consciousness as an unattractive trait? Be interested to hear your thoughts on this.
It’s all negative, yes – being artificial, and obviously trying to impress others.
It’s a good point about men v women, and it is all cultural – it’s more acceptable for a women to be trying more obviously to be attractive. But even there, the same idea applies, just to a lesser extent. Women that too obviously try, often by showing too much skin for example, can be seen negatively – as ‘cheap’ perhaps.
It is pretty much always seen as more impressive, or attractive, to look good subtly and with ease. With men, the key is usually that that seems more confident
Although I can see the point Rups is making, I think it ignores the various articles and comments about moderating the views and advice in the blog with the environment each reader finds themselves in. For example, there was an interview with a chap earlier this year which considered in detail how to “dress up” in a dress down environment without standing out too much. That underscores the importance of not looking affected, surely?
Or to put it another way, carefully considering how clothes affect how you look is not the same as looking affected.
hey simon – curious, what size did you take for the AI shirt you wear in this shoot?
To be honest, I can’t remember Shem. Sorry
I think this is one of your “coolest”-looking jackets. Very casual and versatile. A prime example of how younger men can wear tailoring and still remain relevant/ not look outdated.
I might be reading too much into your review, but it seems to me you’re not really that happy with the jacket, and won’t be wearing it that much. Am I right about that?
No, I wouldn’t say that Haackk. To be honest, I wouldn’t summarise that neatly at all, given how many aspects there are to it.
I like aspects of it, particularly the cloth and the relaxed style. I’m not so keen on others, like the buttoning point and perhaps the degree of softness. I also haven’t had it long enough to know how much I will wear it.
How do they keep the cost of the cloth so low? It appears to be the cheapest on the market.
There’s probably a few factors, including the fact they’re not using expensive fibres, and they’re weaving in a cheaper part of Italy
I have been tempted by the fabric in the past but was slightly suspicious of the price and on seeing the same I though you could feel that the quality wasn’t quite there. As a new venture for them I to cloth I thought I might wait a few seasons to see how the garments in the house cloth age etc and how well it holds up over time. I would be interested to see how this jackets ages after 2 or 3 years of regular wear
Good point, that will be interesting to see
As part of your MTM series, do you plan on trying out the former Stark & Sons, now Atelier DeLuca? I understand that they are the MTM arm of CdL.
Also, similarly to your tailors- and shirtmakers-I-have-known series, will you also eventually be doing a summary article for MTM? Might be helpful to have all of these fantastic reviews archived/aggregated in one place.
I was planning on doing one on Atelier DeLuca yes, though lack of travel has put a bit of a hold on that.
But good point on MTM-I-have-know. I will certainly do a summary article like that at some stage.
Jamie Ferguson takes really wonderful photo sets for your reviews. I hope you/he won’t mind me saying though that one aspect that is really useful I think, is reasonably correct colour temperature / depiction of colours. This photo set appears to have been ‘shifted’ very warm. It does give a very sultry, relaxed, nostalgic feel to the photos – which may nicely reflect the ethos of AI, but it makes it harder to judge their colours. I more neutral colour temperature would be helpful in that.
I might be mis-judging this, but take a look for example at your recent Shibumi bespoke review – the colours / colour temperature look close to neutral to my eye.
Thanks Linden, and noted
Thanks for sharing your information
What are the main differences between P A Crowe and Graham Browne?
I find the timbre of this review disappointing. Usually, in my opinion, one of your great strength’s as a critic Simon is the way you position yourself as a passionate enthusiast rather than a judgemental gatekeeper. Like Billington on theatre, or Rayner on restaurants, you entice us to feel that nothing would please you more than to write a positive review. You are fundamentally on the side of the makers/tailors, and wish to celebrate what they are doing, writing overtly negatively only when entirely necessary. It is lovely to read a critic with this mindset, and it’s one of the many reasons I hugely enjoy your work. By contrast to that normal attitude however, this piece feels rather begrudging, and even a little mean spirited. You are measured in your praise to a clinical fault, refusing to applaud or celebrate beyond repeated use of the bland and reserved “good”. Comfort is something you normally warmly welcome (Ciardi, Steven Hitchcock), yet here you immediately follow up observing the roominess of the Anglo Italian fit with its negative corollary – ‘it could feel just big’. (This despite the fact that you state it doesn’t look big. Isn’t a jacket that feels roomy and comfortable from within yet doesn’t look big from the outside more or less the aim of good tailoring?) Your remark that the jacket feels closer to your Stile Latino piece than any of your bespoke wardrobe again reads as pointedly, wilfully, negative. This is a fully canvassed jacket. It verges on insulting to the maker to compare it to what is essentially a cardigan. You even manage to make the observation that Anglo Italian offers a fully rounded and coherent collection sound bad – ‘you have to take that or leave it.’ I recall a couple of years ago that you wrote a warm and affectionate article extolling the virtues of Drakes’s RTW jackets. Clearly a half-canvassed RTW jacket with unremarkable if nice styling would fall a good way short of the quality of this MTM fully-canvassed and distinctive product, which only costs a few hundred pounds more. And yet the tone of the two pieces are incomparable. I am not sure if it was your intention here to condemn with faint praise, but that is how it comes across to me. It feels odd, because you seem to have very little actual criticism to make. As I say, this is highly unusual in your oeuvre (your fulsome praise of P Johnson’s trousers despite multiple reservations regarding their jacket springs to mind as another example, or your warm praise of Biago’s work despite administrative failings that rendered the offering unviable). Your painstaking refusal here to reach beyond “good” reads unattractively to me, and I felt moved to tell you.
Thank you Thomas, that’s really interesting.
To be honest, I simply try to reflect my feelings and thoughts as honestly as I can, and I tried to do so here as well. I do like this jacket, but don’t love it as I have done others, and that’s probably why the praise feels like that.
Equally on points like the Anglo range all working together. It’s a strength if you like all of it. If you don’t, it’s a weakness.
I try not to be on anyone’s side, the maker or the customer, but to be as impartial as I can – particularly in a review like this. It’s a lot easier to be more passionate when describing only one aspect, such as the craft that goes into something, rather than summarising and weighing up everything.
I hope that helps.
Out of curiosity, who from the shop took your actual measurements and fitted you? Thanks!
Hi Simon – brief question. Would a jacket like this be lined, half-lined, unlined? As someone without experience what are the advantages of each approach? Many thanks
It’s a fairly big question Rob, and I should do a post on it. But briefly, this jacket is quarter lined – ie only in the top of the back and the sleeves. In the front, the same cloth is used instead of the lining.
Unlined is mostly good for making a jacket cooler, so mostly for summer jackets. It can also make it softer to wear, but I find that minimal. In general I would have jackets at least half lined to make them easier to get on and off, and sit properly.
Hi Simon, thank you for this. I did not see this come up in any other comments but are you able to list the width of the lapels? It does appear a bit wider than the current “norm” so just curious on the actual measurements. Perhaps it appears wider from the lower buttoning point.
Sure – just checked and they’re 4 inches (horizontal measure across the lapel, to the point)
Do you know if Alex is still at AI? I haven’t seen him at all on social media- has he left the business?
Simon, the jacket just looks odd on you in several of those images, specifically the upper part of the jacket through the chest looks very long in relation to the skirt. Not sure if its the low button point, or the short length, or its just waisted very low. Perhaps a combination of these. Is it that you are very tall and the MTM pattern was stretched out somehow. Any thoughts you can share on this as I like the AngloItalian aesthetic and want to try them out but this gives me pause.
I think you’re referring to things that are part of the style really, Rups. The low buttoning point and the low drape that Jake refers to both contribute to that effect.
Can a low buttoning point like the AI style make the shorter men look taller?
Generally no, you want a good balance there, rather than it being particularly high or particularly low
hi simon, I believe you have tried on the AMJ06 DB model at the armoury. Would you say there is any difference in style/considerations one should have in deciding between the AI double breasted model and the armoury model 6?
It really was a long time ago Shem, and only for 5 minutes, plus I don’t own anything DB from Anglo. I’m not sure I can really compare. Sorry
The AI website has updated their services section on their website and now shows that they offer bespoke, do you have any info on this? Thanks!
No, sorry Nick
Revisiting this as I am looking to commission a summer blazer at this price point. You say, there are other makers who make same quality level at ±£200, the distinction here being the style. Can you point me to other reviews/makers you have tried at the same level?
No I can’t sorry, I haven’t tried them myself
I finally took the plunge on a made-to-measure sports jacket from Anglo Italian on Friday, and I wanted to share my experience of the initial fitting. It was a delight from start to finish. I emailed ahead to find a good time and was advised to come early in order to get the maximum attention from the team. Sure enough, on arrival, I was capably hosted by Jake and Martin – Jake acting as a gracious host, barista and measurement note-taker (until another client arrived, anyway), while Martin conducted the fitting. Martin explained every measurement and deviation from the try-on reference jacket was explained by Martin for my understanding. I was also permitted to try a jacket made for a similar-sized client in order to gauge the house style. And we then spent an extended period reviewing the fabric books in order to be sure that my initial fabric decision (AIT-005, an in-house, brown Glen check) was the best one.
At no point during the visit did I feel rushed or confused; every effort was taken by the guys to ensure I was comfortable and happy with the process and my decisions. I’m really looking forward to returning for the next fitting.
Thanks for sharing Josh
Would really appreciate a follow up about the finished piece Josh if you might have the time. Lining up an AI MTM myself!
Hey, Peter, sorry for not responding sooner; I don’t reliably receive/notice post notifications on my comments! I’m thrilled with my AI jacket, so much so that I had a suit commissioned shortly after. The experience of visiting the store for fittings and commissions with Jake, Martin, Jacob and colleagues is always a pleasure. I’ll attach a couple photos of both pieces as I could never match Simon’s more detailed analysis 🙂
Edit: ok it looks like only one photo is permitted per post
jacket photo 2
Suit photo. Note that the trousers were altered after this was taken (tweaks to length and line through the knee, plus taken in a bit at the waist). My preferred trouser cut differed quite significantly from their RTW offering, so it took a little more work to perfect. Also they suffer somewhat here from having been locked at 90 degrees whilst watching a 3-hour tennis match.
Thanks so much for sharing Josh, very kind. Since posting here I have actually gone ahead and ordered a MTM jacket from AI, and your experience furthers my excitement even more!
Hello, do you recall which fabric this suit was made with?
Hi, it was a “sun dried” heavyish cotton from Japanese mill Shibaya with code SB6514-3. I would caution, if I remember correctly, that Anglo had effective exclusivity in the UK for that mill’s cloths. In case you were hoping to use Anglo yourself, Martin has a jacket in the exact same fabric. But if you weren’t, a mid-to-heavy weight tan-adjacent cotton from elsewhere would get you in the same ballpark 🙂
Thanks for the thorough reply!
Simon, I’m looking for a good dark tweed jacket, and I came across AIT-08 (https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-008). Can I ask your opinion on it? It’s similar to the cloth featured here, but seems a little darker and more of a grey, cool green. I think the cloth looks great and has the dark and cold look that the PS community appreciates. My only concern is that it might not look great with grey trousers because the jacket itself has so much grey. But I otherwise love the color and muted, hazy pattern. I’d appreciate your thoughts. Many thanks.
It looks very nice, and I think would be OK with mid-grey trousers or paler
Dear Simon! Would you wear this jacket with jeans? Are the cloth and style/make casual enough in your opinion? Thanks, Cheers
The make is certainly casual enough, yes. Perhaps a little shorter would be better, but only a little.
I’m not sure about the fabric though. A tweed or something with more obvious texture/pattern might be better. I haven’t worn it that way myself.
Thank you! So basically something more like this, for example: https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-028 ?
A real harris tweed like this: https://orazioluciano.com/collections/jackets/products/brown-harris-tweed-blazer
is probably always the easiest pairing with jeans? (The colour, texture…)
Exactly, on both counts
Your Ciardi Gun Club is not shorter (Even longer?) am I right? So also a bit too long for jeans?
It’s about the same, maybe a touch shorter. It doesn’t look as long though too, because the buttoning point isn’t quite as low
I wear this particular cloth, in a jacket made by Solito so it’s a bit shorter than Simon’s, often with Resolute raw denim jeans in dark indigo and think that they combine quite well together. I pair it with blue based Oxford shirts and find the combination interesting. In my opinion the jacket cloth provides enough contrast, it’s matte texture definitely helps.
Thank you, Miguel!
Hi Simon, I am considering having AI make me a jacket from the same ‘forest’ Harris Tweed that you used with Zizolfi. Do you think a heavy cloth like this combined with AI’s drape would result in too much cloth, dwarfing the wearer? Or do you think this style would sit better with a crisper linen? Or am I over complicating this!? Many thanks!
I think it should be fine – the Zizolfi cut is a fairly generous one anyway. I also think if you’re aware of that concern, you can can tweak the AI jacket as you’re fitting it.
Many thanks Simon, that’s good to know. Also, I was wondering if you think raising the buttoning point by 1-2cm would upset the jacket? I realise this is a question that AI are best to answer, but I was wondering your thoughts on it. Thanks again.
On this AI one, it would’t upset the balance of the jacket for me, no. But AI might not feel that anything more than that would be in keeping with house style
I wouldn’t say that was my impression of AI, no, but then I haven’t tried the RTW tailoring so can’t speak from experience.
Can you be more specific about how or where you feel the quality was lacking?
I think it is Jack, and that’s good to know. Cotton jackets are famously hard to tailor well, and rarely fall cleanly or sharply. Though that does depend on the weight of the cotton as well.
Only pressing it lightly, or try steaming it when hung up on a hanger. You can do that with a steam iron quite easily.
It’s impossible to say really Jack, not seeing it in person. But I suspect it’s the cotton
Yes, they are known for making decent quality clothing from those types of factories
Hi JacK. Have you spoken to AI directly about the matter and your dissatisfaction? If not, I recommend you do – they are a great team and very open to questions and helping customers post-sale. If you’re unhappy I am sure they will do everything they can to address the situation. Thanks
Good point Alex, yes
Hi Jack, I have the very same sailing jacket from AI and love it. I think it’s one of the best pieces of outwear they sell, both in terms of quality and design – Jake appears to live in it and I imagine he has more than a few options to choose from. I also believe the design was a first collaboration with the new in-house bespoke pattern cutter. The functional pocket is cut on the 45 but personally I like that design touch too.
Simon,On the first picture i can see that the shoulder line on your left shoulder comes a little shorter than your right.I do have the exact same problem.Considering RTW with everything apart from the shoulder.Will you consider going up on size or extend the shoulder width?and why?
There is a difference there but it’s a very small one, and of course just reflects my actual shoulders underneath, as this is made to measure.
Are you asking what I would do with a RTW jacket, rather than this MTM one?
yes what would you do with RTW jacket.
Will you consider going to other tailor that provide a better fitting shoulder or would you say that if i like this style it is not bad having shoulder comes up like this on one side.
I think it’s not that bad – it’s a small thing and in any case I think you’ll get something similar from most brands as well. All RTW jackets are made with the two shoulders the same width as each other
Really enjoyed the review Simon. MTM makers like this are more accessible for many people, particularly if like me they live away from the U.K. I love the Anglo-Italian “look” — all those muddy colours. Do you think the A-I jacket could fit into a more casual Ivy styled wardrobe, e.g. could it be worn with fuller-cut chinos, five-pocket cords, OCBDs, and so on? Or would it be better to get a more casual sack jacket made (for instance by Glenn Au at Junior’s) with Anglo-Italian cloth?
Pleased you liked it.
I think it could certainly fit into that wardrobe, yes. Just as long as you understand the colour combinations, which it sounds like you will
Hi Simon, I was wondering whether you have any plans to commission for Anglo Italian’s bespoke?
No current plans Jack, no, but I’d love to try them at some point. They seem pretty swamped with orders at the moment!
Hi Simon, I’d be interested to learn more about the service, even if you don’t commission anything. For example, is this a bespoke version of the style they offer in MTM? Thanks
I see, good point. Perhaps I’ll talk to Jake about doing a piece at least along those lines.
Hi Simon, if you were to order Anglo Italian’s worsted suit, would you choose an option for slight roping around the shoulders? Would roping make the jacket look more formal?
It would generally, yes. A small point but the kind of thing that could contribute to a smarter suit overall
I see. Would it not break the balance of the overall jack that has already been designed? ( lower button, wide lapel, etc.) Also, usually, would it be possible to add the ropes after a few wears?
I’d leave that up to Jake and the team – whether they think it fits. But no, you can’t add roping later
Okay, thanks, Simon.
Could you briefly explain why roping can’t be added later?
At the very least you would have to take off the whole sleeve and remake the top of it, as the shape and volume is so different. But you may also have to take apart the shoulder, as the roping often involves the pad from the shoulder itself extending into the top of the sleeve.
Okay, that doesn’t sound straightforward job. Thanks, Simon.
But Simon, would you say the worsted jacket without the roping could look slightly wrong/odd? or is it just a matter of personal style/preference?
It certainly wouldn’t look wrong or odd, no
Hi simon am quite interested in anglo italian jacketing given how muted the colour palettes are. The style is quite distinct. Would you say their gorge is slightly too high though? It kind of seems that way to me given that most modern gorges are lower
I wouldn’t say so myself, no, I like it. It’s still lower than most of the tailoring you see
Dear Simon! Do you have plans about reviewing the bespoke service of AI? Their RTW fits me so well that I am not even considering MTM, but still I am curious just by principle. Cheers
Certainly at some point, but probably when they’re more settled (and not completely full!)
Have you ever tried Anglo-Italian’s knitwear? If so, curious for your opinion. Contemplating their crew neck sweater.
I haven’t no, sorry Jonathan
No problem, Simon. I bought that blue Rubato crew neck at your pop-up in the spring. It is one of my favourite sweaters, particularly for its shorter cut. Do you know if anyone else does this kind of cut or similar? The Anglo-Italian knitwear looked promising…
No one really does Jonathan, no. That’s one of the main attractions really
hard to picture you in a suit with non-functioning button hole
I think you might have misread, Chee. I don’t say that the buttonholes are non-functioning
I’m a regular reader but this is my first post. To me, the roominess of Anglo-Italian tailoring has parallels with the silhouette of Barbour jackets that Jake Grantham often wears as well as to the brand’s country coats. In a different style, Sid Mashburn maintains a trim silhouette across both his casual and formal clothing and illustrates how you can swap items ranging in formality (e.g. shifting from denim to high twist or flannel trousers). I’m curious on your perspective as to what degree of cohesion in silhouette you believe one should have when moving from more casual to more formal pieces to maintain a distinctive, singular look. On the one hand, I admire the ability to shift from more casual to more formal settings and maintain consistency/feel like the same person. On the other hand, I tend to prefer different silhouettes depending on the location and social norms in different settings. Is consistency of silhouette across one’s wardrobe something an individual should strive for to reinforce a personal style, or is this approach too constricting for an individual and best left to brands? Should someone wear trim Neapolitan tailoring to a modern restaurant or ad agency office, and also wear more roomy workwear on the weekend, or does this approach make your wardrobe seem too disjointed? To what extent do you try to mirror a certain silhouette when shifting from a tailored sport coat to a chore coat or even a sweatshirt? I realize this topic might be too much to cover in a comment but would make an interesting post.
I don’t think there’s anything wrong with different silhouettes – no one is analysing both parts of your wardrobe and finding it inconsistent.
I think people tend not to do this, and be one way or the other, but that’s because of their personal preferences to always have that kind of room, or that close fit.
Simon, how are the dimensions on that otr Anglo oxford? Are sleeve lengths good compared to your shirts? Looking for a reverse stripe like that.
To be honest Joel I can’t remember – I only wore it for that shoot, I don’t own it
No worries. Thanks Simon. From the pics it seems ok length and circumference wise.