Tweed jacket by the tweed

 
Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonetheless. Cloth suited to its country. 

This was one of the more evocative experiences from being in Scotland a couple of weeks ago. Factories are great – you can’t hide in a factory, there is no PR – but the landscape was beautiful. You don’t expect that outside the Highlands, but it really was. 

Funny what a small world this menswear industry is. I think everyone I’ve met this week has some connection to those three factories we saw in Scotland – whether manufacturer, buyer or designer. And they all had a link to each other too. It’s something that has only become more obvious in the past 30 years, as the British menswear industry has shrunk and lines have become blurred – makers becoming retailers, most obviously.

Screen Shot 2014-11-17 at 22.07.24


But back to the clothes. Regular readers will be able to identify almost everything, but to confirm: tweed jacket from Elia Caliendo, shawl-collar cardigan and cream cashmere handkerchief from Anderson & Sheppard, bespoke high-waisted jeans from Levi’s, and waxed boots from the now long-gone Lodger. 

The A&S cardigan does the job it was designed for admirably: cut slim and short to be able to go under a jacket. It provides insulation for the neck and body, is a versatile mid-layer, and creates that attractive ‘V’ of extra colour that all cardigans are so good for.

For those readers that regularly ask for workplace alternatives to the suit: this is the kind of jacket to wear with jeans, and the cardigan is a great jacket-alternative around the office. Wear it with a wool or silk-knit tie to make it more formal. 
 

t heather

Photos: Luke Carby

 

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Dan

I was really excited when I saw AS was getting a ecommerce website for their haberdashery business but someone really has to tell them they’ve been sold a lemon. There were better functioning sites in the 90s let alone this day and age.

According to Google http://shop.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/plain-cashmere-pocket-square-38353 is a link to a cream cashmere pocket square – when the site temporarily worked this morning the page only came up as the home page rather than the item but hopefully it will start to work properly later. Is this the same as your pocket square?

Dan

I do appreciate this but there are bedroom based businesses running free ecommerce software that have massively better functionally websites created on a shoestring budget. Looking at Skywire who appear to have created the site its certainly not a shoestring budget thats been spent.

Anyway, many thanks for the working link

Alex

Hi Simon,

First of all, thanks for this wonderfully informative blog; you’re work on this has been inspirational. You’ve written about this before, I believe, but I was curious to hear what you do about storage? I’m an inveterate purchaser of coats and jackets, and am finding it challenging to maximise the limited wardrobe space I’ve tried temporary wardrobes to be put into storage, but it’s become a real challenge (particularly for my partner), and I’m concerned that I’m damaging my clothes because of the lack of adequate space. Would you be willing to do a post on this subject detailing your approach?

Dan

I’m curious how wide the boxes are? I kept the “wardrobe” boxes from our last couple of house moves and they comfortably fit 6-8 suites in there depending on the thickness of the hanger’s shoulder element.

Just wondering if you have thinner boxes that could be useful or if you are just leaving more space

Michael Murray

Simon,

The picture of you at the top of the post may be the coolest, most stylish picture on the site. Very cool to see a tweed jacket in it’s true element of Scotland! As you talk about some of the challenges AS faces with their site I thought of a possible future post. I am sure many of your readers would be curious to understand the challenges some of the brick and mortar shops face. Maybe a post on what it takes to get a retail men’s shop up and running. Keep up the great work!

Michael

John

Hi Simon,
Lovely! It woudn’t be a bad idea at all to envision a post entirely dedicated to the various types of tweed, and the best of menswear items one could make out of each.
John

Scott

Simon, love that tweed,jean look! More specifically, The brown jacket with jeans and cardigan is excellent. I also like the shoes as well. This is a marvelous Autumn/Winter look that’s both casual and sophisticated as well.

Rabster

The photography highlighting the beauty of the tweed jacket and where it gets it’s inspiration from is to be applauded .

On the subject of jackets I noticed that sleeve pitch is increasingly necessary on RTW jackets although something which many men no nothing about.
I recently spoke with a tailor about having a sleeve pitch altered and he was genuinely surprised by my enquiry.
Given men’s posture is increasingly changing due to desk bound work it
would be great to see you, Simon, educate men on this.

suffolk

Sorry if this has been covered before, but what fabric is that lovely jacket made from?

Thanks.

Aaron Field

Couldn’t agree with you more, in a time seemingly dominated by fashion and designers it is strangely surprising that the British menswear industry is so small- it’s not like we are behind in the style stakes?! I love the jacket- it doesn’t matter where you go, tweed immediately evokes images of the British countryside and its raw beauty!

Jeff

This has to be one of my favorite jackets of yours. Elia did a great job with the shoulders (just extended enough) and the tweed is a perfect shade of brown.

Hal

I have never been able to understand the allure of jeans; they are no doubt ideal for the purpose for which they were designed, but in my view are totally unsuitable for any other purpose. Unpleasant material, too hot in summer, not warm enough in winter – why does anyone find them attractive?
Wouldn’t woollen, corduroy or moleskin trousers go better with the excellent jacket and cardigan?

Alex Forryan

Hi Simon

Thank you for everything …..

Really quick piece of advice …

I am a best man at a Highland wedding next October (2015) and want to wear (bespoke) tweed. In your opinion do I go for Walker Slater or look to one of the other tailors you’ve recommended? Budget-wise … I guess I’m looking at £1000 – £1500

Thanks in advance for any pointers you can offer …

With every best wish

Alex

Matt

Hi Simon, this is a beautiful jacket, how slim are the sleeves? Does wearing a cardigan underneath feel restrictive at all? And as an aside, is the back clean, or is there a bit of drape there?
Thanks in advance..

Hugh

Hi,

I was wondering if you find the A&S cardigan useful as an outer piece, or mostly for layering under tailoring, with chunkier shawl collars more useful as outerwear?

Cheers,

Anonymous

Hi Simon

Does tweed hold its shape well? I’ve read a few posts over on Styleforum where people have complained about their bespoke tweed jackets stretching and not going back to their original shape. Have you experienced anything like this with tweed?

Anonymous

It’s a 13oz Shetland tweed fabric that I have my eye on. Hopefully, it’ll be ok. You mentioned previously that tweed can be in uncomfortable with a thin shirt. I’m guessing it can be itchy. Have you had any Neapolitan jackets made that are fully lined?

C

Hello Simon,

Recently discovered the blog and I’m enjoying it along with your Instagram feed.

Really loving the look here on this one. It’s a bit more my aesthetic as I love Harris Tweed and a jacket such as yours here with some raw denim. That said I wonder if I could get some advice and your take on adding a jacket from a suit to pair with denim. Personally I feel as though it’s in large part down to the fabrication of the jacket, but I also think that the cut comes into play and I’m not as confident in my pairing as far as the latter goes. For instance the Drake’s AW17 corduroy jackets. While they have a match pant, I also think the jacket could be more versatile if paired with raw denim. Curious to get your experienced take on such a combination.

anand

Simon, can I ask you something about Harris Tweed? Ive noticed that its weight is often quite light, something like 250grams. I assume this is because it isnt tightly woven therefore isnt dense. How does it wear in terms of temperature? Does it wear coolers as it is more porous?

G

Huge fan of Harris Tweed. Perfect for the Chicago autumn and spring which typically doesn’t really end until mid-May. Nice picture.

Peter

Having had this piece for a while, how do you feel about the self-lining? I’ve had a number of tailors try to dissuade me from doing a self-lining / french-facing (I’m assuming those are synonymous) when making up a harris tweed jacket. Reasoning goes that the rough tweed may wear your shirt or otherwise affect the fit as it catches on things. But I do love the way a self-lining looks so I’m conflicted which way to go!

Chris

Awesome post, as usual.

The brown tweed is by far my favorite. The color stands out from the normal greys that seem to permeate my office.

I’ve also switched out my navy blue blazer for a black – again to do something a little different.

As someone who constantly questions ‘what goes with what’ (I have zero fashion sense), I really appreciate these posts. Thank you, Simon!

CMW

Hi Simon. Would this jacket and brown color work with warm grey flannel trousers? What other type of trousers/colors would go well with this jacket? Thanks.

Ian A

Simon what about a wool silk linen jacket such as those in the Cacciopoli SS range. Would that fabric be appropriate to wear with jeans?

Peter Hall

One of the best value places to buy Harris is direct from the Island. The online web shop is excellent.

Rob

Hi – I have always liked this jacket and can see it is being discussed on other articles. A brief question or two if I may. Would you choose a patch breast pocket if you were to commission it again? I thought I had settled on the very dark brown W Bill tweed you used recently for a new brown semi-casual jacket as it looked quite urban and would likely be quite versatile. But I see a tweed similar to this one may be available again. Do you have any advice please – I think I can only afford/justify one?

Clifford P Hall

Simon, be interested to know, how do your new Viberg boots compare to the old Lodger’s? How would they look with the jeans and jacket in the article.

Thanks, hope your summer is going well.

Cliff

Clifford P Hall

Simon, thanks any thoughts on what would work? Maybe EG Galway.

Clifford P Hall

Simon, perfect thank you.

Cliff

Clifford P Hall

Simon, can you say more please about the AS cardigan, color, material and collar.
Thanks.
Cliff

Clifford P Hall

Many thanks, very helpful.

Hope your safe and well.

Cliff

jmehpg

Hi Simon,

I am just getting into the sports jacket/jeans look, having always been trousers and jacket. Does the ‘rule’ of dark on top and lighter on the bottom go out the window when wearing denim? I generally wear dark to mid-wash indigo demin, so I am guessing lighter on top makes sense? Thank you.