The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Also, I tried the Utiliy Jacket with a medium-weight jumper and it was snug but ok. However, I know I'd want to wear a jacket like this in a similar way to Douglas in the photo which is with a chunky-ass roll neck and th...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
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Probably white, like a white oxford or even a white western shirt. Presumably you've seen that in some of the Rubato imagery?...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
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Not really, no. Try a whitening detergent perhaps, or washing whites always together?...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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I don't, sorry Brian...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
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They do. The finish is a little simple, not at the level of some of the things we cover, but it is a good price. You get what you pay for. I'm not planning any reviews currently, no. I don't really cover many RTW jackets...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Thanks, Garry, and glad to see Simon and you both agree on this. A modernised take on the safari, which would mean minus the epaulets and at least a minimised or de-ephasised belt (half belt, internal cinch instead, or n...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...
Reader profile: Shun
With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...
Reader profile: Shun
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Many thanks for this thoughtful and honest response Andrew, much appreciated!...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good ca...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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Perhaps, yes, for a slightly smarter/sharper look...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
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I've certainly considered it, yes, just haven't had a chance yet...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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Nice. I haven't tried the Rubato ones in that colour, no, though the wool ones I have in brown certainly aren't that smart - it's not a fine, dressy wool...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
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No, not more than a few words. But almost universally people speak enough English...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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Great, thanks Simon....
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
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Hi,my grandson is now wearing his late granddad's Barbour jacket after having it re waxed. His older brother did the same some years ago. The jacket is about 35+years old..Their granddad would have been dead chuffed to s...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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Aha right, thanks, Simon...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
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Good morning and a great article...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I have seen and tried them Jim, but don't own any. They are very big in the body compared to most regular shirts and I found that too much personally...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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Hey Chris, Yes it's hard, some people will call a natural shoulder one with just a little less padding than their normal structure. The sloped aesthetic is about the padding, and a little how high it sits on the neck, as...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
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I assume you'll have that with either, as they don't go to Toronto. If New York is easier, you might need to go with Dalcuore or Solito perhaps...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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Hi Matej, the morning dress looks very nice. I am from Vienna and have been struggling to find an affordable yet non-standard morning dress myself. Any chance I might connect with your tailor? I would not mind the travel...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
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Well, the canvas is certainly cut on the bias, yes, but I can't say I've noticed any more difference compared to other Savile Row houses...
This feels like me
I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
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No worries...
