Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review

February 5th 2025

I’ve settled into a bit of a rhythm with Korean tailors Assisi now. I love their soft-but-elegant style, I trust their fit and execution, and I know their double-breasted in particular is something I wear the hell out of. So my next commissio...

Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review

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Good question. Casual is hard in those jackets, I'd say probably a lightweight linen or a cotton. Hopsack is great but might be too smart...

JacketsFebruary 5th 2025

Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule 

November 15th 2024

I usually find packing for work trips quite straightforward. I know what I’ll be doing, in what kinds of places, and therefore what clothing will be appropriate. The challenge is smaller things like a summer jacket that will go with both tailo...

Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule 

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That's the Anthology as well, but Paul's has a little more roping than mine. It might also look a little different because his shoulders are squarer than mine...

Denim - JacketsNovember 15th 2024

Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring

October 16th 2024

Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or Suit...

Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring

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Thank you!...

Jackets - SuitsOctober 16th 2024

Bryceland’s made-to-measure jacket: Review

September 20th 2024

Hello! This is my made-to-measure jacket from Bryceland’s in London, in the Fox/Permanent Style tweed . It’s rather good - not the absolute best MTM fit I've had but solid, with more importantly great style, and significantly, a bespoke ...

Bryceland’s made-to-measure jacket: Review

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Yes that's right. And yes we used to have lots - in fact we were the first place in the world to make MTM or MTO suiting, largely in response to the needs around the first and second world war, and civilian life afterwar...

JacketsSeptember 20th 2024

What I’m looking forward to wearing this winter

September 13th 2024

By Jamie Ferguson. Hey there Permanent Stylers. Longtime contributor, first time writer so go easy on me. Now I may be in the minority here but I LOVE summer dressing. I enjoy the feeling of a cool breeze betwixt my nethers, brazenly unclasping that...

What I’m looking forward to wearing this winter

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Beautiful Inis Meain sweater, and great style generally. Simon, Jamie - or anybody really! - do you know if there’s anywhere that makes Aran or Shetland knitwear, where I could do some MTO/MTM? Unfortunately my arms ar...

Jackets - KnitwearSeptember 13th 2024

The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack – ...

August 21st 2024

I wore this new hopsack jacket from Paolo Martorano quite a bit this summer, which surprised me. Although I’ve had navy jackets in the past, since I stopped working in an office I tend to wear more earthy colours, such as browns, taupes or tha...

The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack – ...

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Hmm. Have you looked at the ' if you only have five jackets' piece Christopher? I think that would summarise my initial idaes...

Glasses and jewellery - JacketsAugust 21st 2024

Ways to wear seersucker

July 24th 2024

I’ve worn seersucker a little in the past - I had a navy-on-navy suit from Dalcuore that was featured here and is shown below. But the fit wasn’t that great and it was never worn much. So in many ways the jacket I recently commissioned ...

Ways to wear seersucker

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Backwards. Not a fan of forwards...

JacketsJuly 24th 2024

Reader profile: Tetsuya

June 19th 2024

Tetsuya Yamashita is a reader that Lucas knows rather than me. Back in the days when he ran the Drake’s pop-up in the old Beige shop in Paris, Tetsuya was a regular visitor, and is still a friend of Beige today. In fact we used their shop as a...

Reader profile: Tetsuya

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I think it's unlikely to be honest Matthew, so many people we want to do! But maybe...

Jackets - ShoesJune 19th 2024

Massura: Building on constructive criticism

June 3rd 2024

Three years ago , I covered the German outfit Massura , who were offering a well-priced bespoke and MTM service made in Naples. However the jacket they made me had some substantial issues, which I covered in a review in the normal, honest way we do ...

Massura: Building on constructive criticism

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Yes. That would be Great. Mr Roetzel is very knowledgeabe....

JacketsJune 3rd 2024

Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update

May 22nd 2024

The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...

Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update

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I don't think the tie is an issue Conor, but the tweedy jacket and flannel trousers might mean an oxford is better, yes...

Jackets - KnitwearMay 22nd 2024

Introducing: The Art du Lin Harrington

May 8th 2024

A particular linen developed by Solbiati has generated a fair bit of buzz in the last couple of years. Finished with a matte effect and washed to give it an unusually soft feel, ‘Art du Lin’ has become popular with a lot of people who do...

Introducing: The Art du Lin Harrington

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Perhaps. I'm not sure I'd wear it with flannels...

JacketsMay 8th 2024

Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

April 15th 2024

I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...

Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

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Found myself going back to this article, because Salino’s philosophy about tailoring as a functional, everyday piece of clothing resonates with me. It seems to me this may well be the only way to keep tailoring relevan...

JacketsApril 15th 2024

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

April 8th 2024

By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

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Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...

Coats - HatsApril 8th 2024

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

March 27th 2024

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

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Oh good, lovely to hear...

JacketsMarch 27th 2024

My case for the lightweight English jacket

February 9th 2024

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the ...

My case for the lightweight English jacket

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Personally I think it's too smart for chinos and jeans yes...

JacketsFebruary 9th 2024

Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things

January 31st 2024

One topic I thought it would be good to cover during Dry January was giving away clothes that you found - for whatever reason - no longer worked for you. Finding good homes for good things, essentially. A good example of this is the suede jacket th...

Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things

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It’s useful to note that almost everything we humans do is a form consumption construed in the very broadest sense of the concept (meaning: a use of planetary resources). Even the posting of that original comment was, ...

JacketsJanuary 31st 2024

Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer

January 8th 2024

This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...

Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer

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Hello Simon, yes absolutely! Thank you very much!...

Jackets - StyleJanuary 8th 2024

The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...

December 29th 2023

When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century America...

The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...

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This is a fairly interesting. This style seems quite retro to me which is why I think it interesting and why I'm possibly drawn to it. Something that may have been common before the 20th century when we didn't have as ma...

Coats - JacketsDecember 29th 2023

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

November 29th 2023

By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

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Manish, which bespoke tailors, with an upper budget cap of £2500, can create a mid-night blue or within that ball-park a jacket designed for versatility and comfort, meeting the following specifications: a very relaxed,...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 29th 2023

Reader profile: Sebastian

November 24th 2023

Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...

Reader profile: Sebastian

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Saman Amel does. P Johnson for some things...

Coats - JacketsNovember 24th 2023

Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...

October 20th 2023

When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful of brands I return to every t...

Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...

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I don't, sorry Anton...

Coats - JacketsOctober 20th 2023

Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba

October 6th 2023

By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and ...

Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba

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A few in Madrid, like Burgos, but not many. If you do a quick search of the site that will be the best way to see...

JacketsOctober 6th 2023

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

September 27th 2023

This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

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I'd say brown is probably right, followed closely by the natural. I wouldn't go navy with gold buttons. My only concern would be that I haven't seen that material made up as a bespoke jacket, so I'm not sure how casual i...

Denim - JacketsSeptember 27th 2023

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

August 9th 2023

Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

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Hey Josh - finally got confirmation, it's Holland & Sherry 2024002...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 9th 2023

Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans

July 24th 2023

On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...

Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans

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Thank you Alex...

Bags - DenimJuly 24th 2023