Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

May 18th 2022

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review.  The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Mark...

JacketsMay 18th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

May 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress...

Jackets - SuitsMay 16th 2022

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

May 11th 2022

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me.  This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rat...

JacketsMay 11th 2022

This feels like me

May 2nd 2022

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...

This feels like me

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper sh...

Jackets - StyleMay 2nd 2022

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

April 29th 2022

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t ...

JacketsApril 29th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown.  ...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

April 13th 2022

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer.  Unfortunately the design had some fla...

JacketsApril 13th 2022

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 6th 2022

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely.  We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth tha...

JacketsApril 6th 2022

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

March 30th 2022

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest.  It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months o...

JacketsMarch 30th 2022

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

February 25th 2022

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades.  I was intereste...

Coats - JacketsFebruary 25th 2022

William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review

February 23rd 2022

This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...

William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review

This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley.  We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well...

JacketsFebruary 23rd 2022

Reader profile: Daniel

February 14th 2022

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...

Reader profile: Daniel

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask.  It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 14th 2022

Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age

February 9th 2022

  I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upsi...

Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age

  I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 9th 2022

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

February 7th 2022

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as...

JacketsFebruary 7th 2022

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

January 31st 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 produc...

Coats - JacketsJanuary 31st 2022

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

January 19th 2022

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring .  But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, some...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 19th 2022

Reader profile: Mattia

January 17th 2022

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...

Reader profile: Mattia

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear.  I enjoyed talking to him, and his frien...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 17th 2022

Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review

December 22nd 2021

Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...

Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review

Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet.  JB - as he ...

JacketsDecember 22nd 2021

Reader profile: Ben

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together fo...

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed

November 3rd 2021

Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...

The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed

Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else.  So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run ...

Casual clothing - JacketsNovember 3rd 2021

Reader Profile: Andrew

October 27th 2021

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...

Reader Profile: Andrew

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe...

Jackets - StyleOctober 27th 2021

The jackets I picked for winter

October 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds ...

JacketsOctober 20th 2021

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

October 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article , I mad...

Jackets - TrousersOctober 13th 2021

The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’

October 4th 2021

Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...

The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’

Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been  the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have ...

JacketsOctober 4th 2021

Brioni bespoke tailoring

September 22nd 2021

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a...

Jackets - SuitsSeptember 22nd 2021