Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

August 29th 2022

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city.  The individual pieces should be pretty familiar:  cotton double-breas...

Jackets - Socks and underwearAugust 29th 2022

Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations

August 22nd 2022

By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...

Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations

By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with i...

JacketsAugust 22nd 2022

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

August 3rd 2022

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city.  One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristin...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 3rd 2022

Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...

July 29th 2022

How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...

Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...

How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wea...

JacketsJuly 29th 2022

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

July 11th 2022

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too.  It's often used...

JacketsJuly 11th 2022

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

June 27th 2022

By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed o...

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 27th 2022

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring.  I can di...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...

June 20th 2022

By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...

Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...

By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between ...

Hanks and scarves - JacketsJune 20th 2022

Reader profile: Cedric

June 17th 2022

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...

Reader profile: Cedric

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke.  He also ha...

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 17th 2022

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

June 1st 2022

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself.  Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angl...

Cloth - JacketsJune 1st 2022

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

May 18th 2022

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review.  The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Mark...

JacketsMay 18th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

May 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress...

Jackets - SuitsMay 16th 2022

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

May 11th 2022

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me.  This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rat...

JacketsMay 11th 2022

This feels like me

May 2nd 2022

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...

This feels like me

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper sh...

Jackets - StyleMay 2nd 2022

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

April 29th 2022

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t ...

JacketsApril 29th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown.  ...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

April 13th 2022

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer.  Unfortunately the design had some fla...

JacketsApril 13th 2022

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 6th 2022

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely.  We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth tha...

JacketsApril 6th 2022

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

March 30th 2022

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest.  It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months o...

JacketsMarch 30th 2022

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

February 25th 2022

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades.  I was intereste...

Coats - JacketsFebruary 25th 2022

William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review

February 23rd 2022

This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...

William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review

This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley.  We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well...

JacketsFebruary 23rd 2022

Reader profile: Daniel

February 14th 2022

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...

Reader profile: Daniel

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask.  It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 14th 2022

Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age

February 9th 2022

  I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upsi...

Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age

  I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 9th 2022

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

February 7th 2022

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as...

JacketsFebruary 7th 2022

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

January 31st 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 produc...

Coats - JacketsJanuary 31st 2022