WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finish...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing t...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involv...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, ...
If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection
Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little understanding. I loved...
If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection
Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little...
Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review
I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My made-to-measure Anglo-Italia...
Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review
I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My m...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, ...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to off...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. I was measured at Pit...
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six ...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). An...
The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...
This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket without silk facings - and how it...
The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...
This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket witho...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of c...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdo...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape cut that A&...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape ...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granat...
Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where you can we...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granat...
Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of tempe...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in t...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. I...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light sh...
Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready ...
Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they wil...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has rec...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an exp...