Category: Jackets

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review.  The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Mark...

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress...

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me.  This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rat...

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper sh...

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t ...

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown.  ...

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer.  Unfortunately the design had some fla...

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely.  We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth tha...

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest.  It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months o...

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades.  I was intereste...

This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley.  We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well...

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask.  It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’...

  I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got...

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as...

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 produc...

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring .  But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, some...

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear.  I enjoyed talking to him, and his frien...

Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet.  JB - as he ...

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together fo...

Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else.  So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run ...

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe...

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds ...

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article , I mad...

Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been  the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have ...

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a...