Why I bought the same Chapal leather jacket again
There is an interesting dynamic that happens as you ramble along your menswear journey, one I don’t think we’ve talked about before. That is, as you build up a wardrobe of good clothes, you gradually get to a point where you buy less - or should do.
At the beginning, there’s a blank canvas. Whether you’re putting together a whole new style or just levelling up the quality level, there’s quite a lot of shopping (budget dependent) and a one-in-one-out system is realistic, as each new piece has replaces another.
But at some point, this highly effective wardrobe of quality clothing begins to feel a little full. You have most of the bases covered, and while there will still be things on the wish list, realistically these are unusual, exceptional, and there aren’t many of them.
It’s hard to recognise this and react responsibly. If we like clothes we normally like shopping, or at least the deep-dive research, analysing and agonising, discussing and comparing and even spreadsheeting, which can pass for shopping these days.
It’s at this point that it’s tempting to follow trends - because each represents the excitement of something new, a new idea and a new purchase. What we should probably be doing is honing this way of dressing that we’ve now found suits us, our taste and our place in the world.
It is one of the ironies of dressing well that the better you do it, the less (over time) that you often buy.
I was reflecting on this earlier this year as I was considering the purchase of a leather jacket.
Now, this can be one of the worst menswear decisions to agonise over, as the comedian Mary Beth Barone puts very well. For guys it’s such a question of identity, of who they are - are you the kind of guy who wears a Perfecto, an A-2, a Highwayman or (most likely) nothing more dangerous than a suede Valstarino.
Fortunately for me, I’ve already owned and worn most of those, and I have a decent idea of what works. I was looking for a new one not because I wanted a new style, but because my old ones were just too small. As we’ve discussed in detail in regards to shirts, the combination of changing tastes and changing body shape has forced me to size up in many things.
I considered a lot of options for my new jacket. Like everyone else, I love the idea of horsehide but I know I won’t wear it in for a long time (I wear too much tailoring day to day). I love the idea of a vintage leather jacket, but something in my size and a simple, wearable style is very rare. Pre-owned is usually best, and at one point I had 43 leather jackets on my eBay watchlist. Plus 17 on Vinted and 5 on Vestiaire Collective.
But after about four months of (admittedly very enjoyable) saving and analysing, I realised that what I wanted I actually already had - a USAAF jacket from Chapal.
The problem was that my existing one was way too small. It might have actually been small when I first commissioned it, back in 2015 (pictured above). The fact that that’s 10 years ago does make me feel slightly better about this.
Back then I was skinnier and I didn’t feel any clothes were slim enough for me, so when I had the option to pick the skinniness, I often went too far. The made-to-measure process at Chapal gave me that choice, and I that’s what I did.
It’s no coincidence that when I wrote about how the jacket had aged - after a few years - I was pictured only wearing a knitted T-shirt underneath. A chunky sweater would have been too tight.
In those pictures the shoulders and back don’t look too bad, mostly because of the style of the jacket with its big back pleats. But the waist is tight and it’s short - too short to wear with anything but real highest-waisted trousers.
As I reflected on in that article, however, I absolutely loved wearing it (more so without the mouton collar) and over the years it had really proved its value. It had also proved to be easier to wear the more beaten-up it was, and the more casual things it was worn with.
So I went to see Chapal again, and I ordered the same thing. Last time, I had ordered a made-to-measure product with the chest of a medium size, and the waist of a small. This time, I just bought a large.
It was very expensive. The first time I bought the jacket, 10 years ago, it was £2700. When I covered it again, it was £4000. Today it costs £5250. This is partially the kind of inflation we’ve seen everywhere in recent years with luxury goods, and I know from personal experience how much of that is raw materials, labour and related costs. (In fact it occurs to me that an article running through all that might be enlightening.)
But the cost of the Chapal was still a lot, and I would have probably thought again were it not for the fact that I had had so many years of enjoying the jacket, and know what I was getting.
That decision was probably one of the most boring bits of shopping I’ve ever done. But as we ramble along this menswear journey, perhaps clothes shopping should get less exciting - replaced with the satisfaction of wearing those good clothes instead, and making less frequent, better informed decisions like this one.
(By the way, I also sold my old jacket, and so found a good home for a beautifully worn-in piece that I only wish I could have had access to, 10 years ago.)
There's a lot not included here on the jacket and the maker. For more on Chapal, see original article here. For more on why I like the jacket so much, see the ageing article here.
I had a similar situation with your bridge coat recently.
I bought it when it was originally released, was slightly between sizes and sized down (as I would tend to do back then….everything had to be slim). 8 years later, slim had become tight. Reviewing the options, there was nothing else I thought looked better, and I knew how versatile it was from 8 years of use, so I ordered another in the size up. E-baying the original version managed to defray 50%+ of the cost, which I thought was pretty good going.
Absolutely. Really nice to hear Oliver – it’s hard to think of a greater compliment to a designer than buying the whole thing over again, knowing how much it’s going to be enjoyed
It’s the same story for the Bridge Coat for me. Bought a size 4, which was perfect at the time. Now need a 5. Initially I didn’t want to spend so much on a duplicate purchase, but I’ve realized how useful that coat is and how much I like it. For me, it is the best designed PS item.
So, if anyone wants to swap a size 5 for a size 4, let me know! Though as with Simon, the tendency is that we all need to size-up.
It remains a nice looking jacket!
Didnt follow the 2nd paragraph though, surely the 1 in 1 out approach only starts in the 3rd paragraph when you’ve realised your wardrobe is getting a bit full. A problem I’ve not managed to get to yet and so the one in one out only applies to damaged garments and whilst that may mean having two of something similar there’s still space for a best and a non-best alternative.
Interesting also you went from MTM to RTW this time, was that purely because the RTW was such a good fit to start or more a symptom of the limited range of adjustments in MTM? Appreciate MTM can range and at its lowest level is just selecting stock sizes on a few points.
Thanks Bob.
My point in the second para is that as you’re upgrading things at the start, it’s often one-in-one-out. I.e. you get a well-made navy suit and get rid of your much cheaper navy suit. But that does assume you already have a decent wardrobe of things at that level – and I understand why you might still keep the cheaper one as a fall back.
With RTW, yes I think I used to get more excited at MTM or MTO and think it was always better. But if it’s a piece like this and you’re not an unusual shape, sometimes it’s better to take something RTW where you know exactly what it’s going to be like
This journey really resonates. Can I ask if you got anywhere near your orginal outlay of £2700 back when you sold the first jacket? All helps with the man maths as we consider these ‘investment’ pieces. Cheers, J
True!
No, I only got about 30pc back, but it does help
I don’t think the word “investment” is meant in that sense. If I sold the pair of shoes I have on my feet now, I don’t think I would be able to get a third of their original value. But they are already well broken in and moulded to my feet, so they are worth more to me than a new pair of shoes.
This is a great article, and easy to relate. I have a lovely Purple Label suede biker jacket, which was—even on a gray market price—quite expensive for me. I got an L, wanting to avoid it being too roomy (because oversized biker jackets don’t look as good as generous flight jackets). However, I wish I had bought an XL because it’s a bit too tight when zipped. However, I haven’t let it bother me because I anyways wear it unzipped unless I really need to (and living in Southern Spain, that rarely happens). And worn unzipped, I think it looks pretty good to me, I’ve only gotten compliments. Going to keep it until I hear someone mentioning it looking like a sausage skin on me…
I have actually had this dilemma before when trying on some outdoor jackets types in front of a mirror. It I’m approximately between the sizes, often the smaller size looks better and more natural when worn open, while the larger size looks clearly more dignified when zipped. I feel like it’s often a compromise as the cut, personal taste and purpose (am I going to be wearing this most of the time open or not?) are all factors. Of course, this only applies when both sizes are okay, not when the jacket is way too small or big.
25 years ago, Heidi Slimane designed clothes very close to the body, so much that Karl Lagerfeld decided to lose significant weight just to be able to wear Slimane’s designs… Everything became very small, and like everyone else I bought suits, leather jackets… which I find today too small. Everything I buy today is clearly larger, but I have still kept my old leather jackets for 2 reasons: 1) my daughter love them! and 2) they still look nice in summer with just a T-shirt…
In 1996 I had a bespoke suit made. I told the tailor to make it a little tighter since I intended to diet, having put on a bit of weight recently. He just laughed and completely ignored me.
Thank goodness for that. Still wearing it even though it is somewhat tighter than it was.
We all need a tailor like that!!
Interesting topic, Simon. I’ve come across the same thoughts more and more recently, as my wardrobe nowadays really has no reasonable gaps left to fill, and the amount and quality of the clothes will surely leave me well dressed until I die. What should we then do? Start swapping groups? Use our oxfords as trainers to wear them down?
Ha! Unfortunately, I just think we need to get used to buying less and treasuring the things we have.
Or order bespoke shoes that take 2 years to arrive anyway….
Yes. I have restricted myself to light weigtht scarves, gloves and other small things at vintage and thrift stores.
Hello Simon, this completely resonates with me. I’m well into the phase of ordering ‘unusual’ bespoke or MTO items (e.g. green suede tassel loafers – which I’m getting surprisingly good wear out of!), and buying doubles of some of the key pieces (e.g. fresco blazer, hopsack blazer, cotton blazer, linen blazer, double breasted hopsack blazer etc etc).
The problem now is one of storage.
This does mean, however, that every few months or so I find something buried at the back of the wardrobe I forgot about; the ultimate in ‘shopping’ your own closet.
Makes the MTO deerskin overshirt seem like a bargain.
Simon,
In a similar vein I really value a transitional long cotton coat with a soft handle. Perfect for spring and autumn when too cold to go without, but an overcoat is too much. So hard to come by, my last one I got from Nigel Hall eight plus years ago, now pretty faded. I almost regret not buying two at the time.
Regards
I can certainly identify with this Simon – it’s all part of ageing and its effect on shape and proportions – in fact I’m sure it will resonate with a great many of us. It really does underline the importance of making good fit-based choices when we select clothing and, critically, to make longevity led decisions when we look to acquire investment pieces. It’s a challenge I’ve often come up against when considering whether to invest in some of your PS and PS/PWVC designs as, I assume, the original design and cut seems to be usually based on – quite understandably – your own slimmer proportions and preferences. With the changes in your own proportions and shape you are experiencing, do you envisage these will start to be reflected in your designs, as I think doing so would open up many more possibilities for a lot of us.
I think that’s unlikely Barry, but I do find just sizing up achieves the same thing, at least for me
I would love an article on the (arguably insane) inflation we are seeing in luxury goods. 9 years ago PS did an article on the entry level Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit and the starting price was 1350gbp. This fall it was over 4000gbp. That’s tripling in less than a decade. At that rate we would be expecting to see an entry level suit, made overseas, starting at 12k gbp by 2035. This is all starting to seem a bit worse than the American housing market.
Yes I agree, it would be a nice. I doubt we’ll see inflation like that in the near future though – a lot of this was down to unusual incidents, like Covid, Brexit, Trump tariffs. When India can suddenly have 50% tariffs imposed, it’s not surprising prices rise a lot more than you’d expect
I agree. Most of us can’t wait until this nonsense is over.
Prices never go down….
I see no reason though to think that the near future won’t hold more of these unusual incidents. Brexit, the tariffs and especially Covid should have taught us to expect the unforeseeable. On the other hand, markets like the one for bespoke suits won’t suddenly start expanding again and the price of labour, transport and raw materials will likely not stop rising immoderately. The climate crisis is real. A higher revenue per customer will be necessary for certain types of business (the ‘high-end’) to survive, so I actually doubt inflation will come down to (levels we once considered) normal.
Probably very off topic question, but how much can a US (primary) tariff affect something made in India and sold in the UK? I can understand that the price goes up for people in the US, but not for the rest of the world unless the maker has decided that their prices should be the same for everyone, thus passing the cost of US tariffs to all customers regardless of where they come from.
200% inflation in ten years sounds truly insane, unless you are talking about my home country (Argentina)
That depends on the brand and their approach to consistent pricing, but most of the time people seem to be happy for it to be cheaper somewhere else
I would echo this, would love to see that article.
Some other points of reference – Meyrowitz glasses (OTR) were £595 in 2018 when Simon wrote about his Hardy sunglasses and are now £1250!
And shoes also seem to also have doubled in price over the last decade… a pair of C&J shoes now costs ~£6/700 and were £350 c. 2015
Nothing wrong with recognizing what you like, and sticking with it; and weeding out what you don’t. I realized after trial and error that I don’t go for military-inspired jackets or chore jackets. As nice as they can be, I will always gravitate to something else. I have a couple of favorite jackets, and if something happened to one, I’d try to find as close a replacement as possible.
I appreciate your addressing the fulfilled/satisfied state at which one hopes to arrive. Sometimes the thing you bought 20-30 years ago is still going strong, and that’s worth embracing!
Since some can’t help but be analytical, it’d be an interesting exercise to identify the “peak ‘good enough'” in various categories/ranges!
Happily for me, as an ageing Flaneur my weight doesn’t fluctuate and I never bought into the tight vibe seeing it as a sartorial blunder that would surely pass. Consequently my V1 PS Trench and my V1 Donegal tweed still fit me perfectly and I love wearing both to death. That said, I am currently considering passing my V1 Donegal to my son and buying a new one because I love the herringbone, heavier weight and wider sleeves.
Regarding your leather jacket, I think you’ve made a wise choice. It is truly beautiful and next time I’m in Paris I’m seriously thinking of following in your footsteps. Leather jackets are the most difficult thing of all to get right. Some twenty two years ago I bought my one and only leather jacket from Zegna in NYC. It was about $2500 – a veritable kings ransom back then but it had my name on it. I’m a firm believer that you don’t find the perfect leather jacket, it finds you. I’ve worn it to death ever since but am now seriously am considering replacing it with the Chapal. Again the old one will go to my son and yes, you are correct, us accomplished Flaneurs buy relatively little and when we do it’s either to replace or to freshen something up.
I can feel this one. It’s always a pull between staying consistent with what one likes and also trying out new stuff and exploring new styles.
I once thought I want to change the maker or designer for everything so that my wardrobe feels exciting and fresh and looks very versatile. Now I am the exact opposite. I could probably live with having everything from 4-5 brands. Never change a winning team I guess. It’s also frightening how many Shirts in blue and white stripes I own. Or the five different LVC Jeans of which 3 are nearly identical in terms of fit and shade but since I dress mainly for myself I notice the little things about them which 90% of people around me probably don’t!
The most disappointing thing in this article was that he sold the jacket to someone else and not me.
Jokes aside, would love to see an article explaining the reasons behind inflation for such goods.
Simon, I’m glad the size Large worked out better this time. You’d actually written about this preference for a tighter fit in blousons / leather jackets before – and then later acknowledged in your “Outfits I got wrong” piece that you’d chosen too small with that Ralph Lauren suede blouson.
Before buying my brown Valstarino, I spent considerable time researching on Instagram, and it seems the vast majority go for an exaggerated slim fit that only allows for a thin knit underneath. Personally, I don’t think this is either the most elegant or the most comfortable look.
No, I agree. Interestingly, back in the day when Valstarinos first became popular (partly thanks to Drake’s carrying them) it was actually hard to find the ‘slim’ fit as the classic one was always quite big and blousy. That was around 2012 perhaps. Over the years, the slim fit took over to the point where it was hard to find the classic shape outside of some older Italian stores. But when we did our reversible one, we consciously went back to that fit
They’ve actually gone back to a “regular” fit version now as standard, which makes sense
Yes I heard, and it absolutely makes sense now with the direction everything’s going
Smart(est) move, Simon!
That jacket is such a thing of beauty, it just makes me happy looking at it.
Indeed – please do an article on this: “The first time I bought the jacket, 10 years ago, it was £2700. When I covered it again, it was £4000. Today it costs £5250. This is partially the kind of inflation we’ve seen everywhere in recent years with luxury goods, and I know from personal experience how much of that is raw materials, labour and related costs. (In fact it occurs to me that an article running through all that might be enlightening.”
Hi Simon,
I wanted to share that I did the same. I had purchased an XL and although I can still fit in it, it’s not comfortable. I did end up ordering a 3XL and it’s so much better. I am not huge 190 cm, 88kg, but I feel this jacket’s style is best ordered probably 2 sizes larger than you would normally.
kindly,
P
I don’t suppose you’d be looking to sell your XL on would you Peter? As I’d be very interested!
I am generally a fan of Americana but I started to think— do I really still want to be make an association with the US at this time in history, when it basically sabotages Europe, pushes Ukraine over the cliff and wants to make common cause with Putin.
This could be an interesting article, namely what kind of clothes / style one choses not to wear because it comes with too much baggage.
I would not judge you because these clothes were there long before the conflict was. And its getting complicated. Most of our clothes coming from military: chinos, most boots, field jackets, and so on! When do you make the cut? For me A nice line is camouflage, thats what I don’t use, but thats the only one. And even there nowadays there are so casual clothes with camo that you would not make any connection…
Great article, Simon! I would like to second the idea of an article breaking down where the costs come from with luxury goods (raw materials, labour and related costs, as you say) — and perhaps even the way it is influencing the way tailors do business (I understand that Edward Sexton is now asking for 100% payment up front, rather than the traditional 50% — different perhaps, but related,, I think). Particularly as we are watching endlessly inflating prices, I think this would be a really helpful article, and I hope you’ll consider it. Loved the article!
Cheers David.
I think the issue with some tailors is the way people buy bespoke – they’re generally buying less and often buying one-off. That breaks down the old business model of people regularly ordering, and so cash coming in fairly consistently. Also of suits getting easier to make over time but being able to charge the same amount.
Frankly, and sadly, I’ve also heard of an increase in people just not paying the second half and never picking up the tailoring. Or never turning up to appointments and so making everything harder for the tailors. That’s pushing people towards things like asking for deposits for appointments as well.
Please please please do the article on where price increases have come from. My wife has banned me from buying a few pieces that have been on my ‘save up and wait till they’re in stock again’ list because she’s convinced the companies are price gouging. I need evidence if I’m ever going to get that silk LEJ officer’s shirt!
Sure Aaron. The vast majority of brands we cover are certainly not price gouging though, and LEJ certainly isn’t! They’re great value for money
I suspect you’re right. It would certainly be helpful to have something I could share with people that showed that reality. I look forwards to the article!
This sort of thing is why I really love clothes. I love all the design and research and the challenge of putting things together, but the magic really is where you figure out what’s you and fully lean into it. It’s such a fulfilling experience.
Ok, after reading the article and the comments, I don’t feel weird anymore about wanting to buy the PS Donegal coat one size larger 😁
Any discount available?
I’m afraid not Matt, we don’t have a market like that for selling second-hand pieces, though we are hoping to do it at some point
Nice. Was the Brycelands one an option?
It would be quite a different look, in black and that shiny leather (at least for a while). The fit I also find a little tricky. It’s beautifully made though
S tier jacket! It would be interesting to read an article about quality products inflation which have increased more than the regular inflation. I think a big part of the high end product market clients are just people with normal jobs who just want to buy more conscious or aspirationally instead of the money-is-no-object type of client but these kind of goods seem increasingly unattainable every year. Im a little bit taken aback by 700€ regular montblanc fountain pens and 500€ Carmina shoes (which I still buy, but with horror in my face 😂)
Yes I agree Fernando.
However, don’t mix up regular inflation with inflation on goods like these – regular inflation is a hugely complex number with lots of things in it that don’t affect goods like this at all. These luxury goods prices are affected by very specific things (including, for example, the luxury groups all being very heavy with their sustainability criteria and traceability as well)
Taking a look at the 2015 jacket, the sizing for that one actually looks okay to me as there don’t appear to be any excessive stress points in the leather.
I’m a bit surprised at the lack of patina but that indicates a great dyeing process
I think that’s mostly the fact that the body is fairly large in shape, but the waist is very very tight in the ribbing for example. You also can’t really move much in it
Simon, I seem to remember that you do endurance sports, and my experience of that is that the ‘thrifty genotype’ usually paired with such sports has a tendency to hold on to fat.
This is particularly true in middle age. I put on several stone in my 30s and 40s, but was told by most people that this was just inevitable for my age and the demands of a life in which I couldn’t exercise all the time.
GLP drugs are transformative in this regard, and if you can accommodate the cost and any side-effects, should be considered. I have recently returned to the same weight I was in my 20s, and found myself buying a new wardrobe which led me to your excellent site.
Seeing the cost of the replacement Chapal jacket, I would have thought that the cost/benefit of using GLP would offset the expense of sizing up. Unless of course you’d simply prefer to have a reason for a wardrobe refresh 😉
Thanks Mark. I’d never thought about that, but interesting. To be honest I prefer the size and shape I am now
I find it amazing that you purchased the same jacket from the same company that made a jacket for you that was too short.
Chapal should have been embarrassed with the poor design and refunded your money.
It was nothing to do with them, it was what I asked for and wanted.
Only tangentially related, but that “one in, one out” process is pretty hard. I’ve been trying to sell a bunch of my stuff – mispurchases, stuff I realised was redundant, stuff in wrong sizes where I deluded myself early on about how much it could be altered – and so far, it’s been going really slow.
eBay and related platforms really are a hellhole where that’s concerned; I’ve taken really good photos, I’ve written extensive descriptions, I’ve priced well below what they’re worth and more in line with the average “my grandpa died and I want all this stuff gone” price around there – and people instead buy stuff that costs as much but is advertised with three identical, overexposed, off-colour phone pictures and has a description like “selling suit jacket large”.
I’ve singled out a good dozen of things, based on criteria like “I already have a gray sport coat” and “there’s no way I can wear this enough to justify the amount of space it takes” (my early-fascination thrifting spree produced a lot of ill-advised impulse purchases) and now it’s all just hanging on my closet door waiting for someone to actually want it.
It’s depressing, honestly.
This article reminded me of Erik’s articles about stylish old men (although I’m not implying that you’re old!); one of the reasons for his admiration is because they prioritise comfort and hence tend to look relaxed and stylish in their clothes. Whenever I’ve asked myself why I rarely wear an item it’s usually because it’s tighter than an alternative and subconsciously I opt for comfort. Once the obvious dawned on me, I replaced several shirts, buying the same but a better fit.
One question if I may, did the Redford A2 by Cromford make your shortlist? Appears to be a nice, well made jacket in a similar style to your chapal.
Yes it did and that is nice. Personally I prefer the design of the Chapal, and some of the details like the lining in particular. I find design details are also something that really push a jacket like this from being high-quality but a little old-fashioned or dull in look, to something more refined
Ciao Simon,
lovely jacket, will simply last a lifetime.
Tell me , how is the quality in comparison to the Real McCoys ( apart from
the leather which looks very soft compared to the Japanese guys ) ?
Also, did you manage to have a look at Chapal’s boots, the Simone in particular ?
I think they have an appeal that is not found today in many brands, that confident sexuality of a slim ankle tied with laces but without pretence or fragility.
What do you think Simon ?
Grazie,
Hey JR,
I wasn’t a fan of the boots myself, but that might be personal.
The quality is as good as McCoy’s, just a different kind of leather – more akin to their deerskin than to horsehide, but also with its own characteristics (slightly thicker, slightly spongier)
Ok Simon, understood.
Both have their house qualities.
I like the boots, there something there , a vintage, carefree aura perhaps.
Perhaps in suede one day and not so high.
Grazie.
Yes I can see that JR
I guess one could have a bunch jackets and wear them for life i.e. just get the same model when it wears out.
Like same for jeans and shoes or the like if one has what one wants why change it.
I guess maybe one could find new stuff and the unexpected is always fun.
I remember some years ago I did read an article on how women preferred that men dress and if I remember correctly many women preferred jeans, white tee and leather jacket.
Personally I do not get that exited about leather jackets at the moment.
Has anyone here tried leather jackets for dating / dancing / pubs or the like does it impress many women ?
I’m not sure leather jackets necessarily come up Mark, but the feedback is very often that they like relaxed clothing and nothing that suggests trying too hard. A leather jacket would often fall into that category.
One PS article on the subject here
Yeah but some dude asked 101 women and a good fitting leather jacket was a favorite for a first date.
Button up shirt preferred to tees.
https://www.reddit.com/r/OkCupid/comments/5umf5i/i_spent_5_months_asking_101_women_what_a_man/
Is there something primitive about large leather pieces that is appreciated, like : “This man could kill an animal to have made clothes for him, he can probably take care of a family …” or the like.
And who wears shirts with jeans ? Or is that a thing now like a mix of relaxed / workwear and office wear. Like a compromise between blue-collar and white-collar wear ?
Interesting. I would think that could make a great impact if it felt natural, but it wouldn’t feel natural on most guys perhaps. The other points before that are more what I’d expect.
I doubt that’s it on the leather jacket. It’s more that it projects confidence if done well.
Lots of people wear shirts with jeans, it’s pretty normal.
Yeah maybe that is the attraction somehow, the mix.
Like the dude with an office job (in general higher salaries), who also wears some workwear mixed in i.e. a real man that could like fix things or might even ride a motorcycle or the like but can still provide a good environment and the like …
Just because it aint my thing. Apparently it seems to somehow be popular but I would have to read the article again.
It would be interesting to dress up a dude exactly like that and send him to speed dating or something…
But then of course personality and other factors would play in …
FWIW I commissioned a G1 jacket when I was in Paris some years ago. Measures were taken as well as photographs, details like goat leather, a slightly longer jacket, epaulettes etc. were written down. Also, I had one or two pleasant telephone conversations with Claire at their production site subsequently. When the jacket arrived, however, it was so tight, it almost felt like a number too small. As the armholes are quite low even on their MTM, the whole jacket moves up while one is moving. Leather stretches though and my shape has not changed contrary to yours, so the jacket has become better and also wider. But there are still two ugly lateral folds from one arm pit to the other when the jacket is closed. Great leather, great details and make, for sure. But could it be Chapal is missing someone who understands fit?
Thank you Burt, good to know. Not really sure why you had more issues than me, but useful experience to add here
Reminds me very much of the Wested Leather Indy Jacket. Peter Botright, a legend in film and TV costuming made the original. Sadly he is no longer with us, but Wested is still in business. His Indy jacket can be had made to measure from about £300 and ready made for less. Worth a look.
Why not get a bespoke jacket for a third of the price from the likes of Thedi Leathers?
Because I don’t really like the style of Thedi Leathers – and what my experience over the past 10 years has shown me, is how much more important the style is than trying for a bespoke fit. Also, I think the Chapal quality is higher but I don’t know Thedi well enough to say
Simon- great piece as always and fascinating knowing your thinking on such a purchase. A question – what do you think are the crucial measurements when determining size? And what is the correct amount of room.
like yourself I have bought many things in retrospect that seem small. But there is always some debate here. Often sizing up will lead to a bigger shoulder and on me, who has a shorter risk, the length may be notably too long.
and how roomy should something be? If my chest measures a 38.. a 42 perhaps?
It’s a hard one Chris, as there is a lot of personal preference in here and choice in terms of what style you want. Those pieces you bought in the past weren’t wrong necessarily, it was just a different style. You want to be moderate overall, so things don’t go out of style, but nothing is completely correct.
It is something we can look at in more detail some time if it would be useful though, measuring a few things and seeing how much space there is.
Overall though, I think it’s better to try and train your eye to see the proportions on yourself and what look you want from that point of view
Thankyou Simon.
I had a spelling mistake in my original message (cursed autocorrect), but the point I tried to make was when I size up, whilst the chest may work, the length often becomes wrong. It’s a tough one !
I for one would love a piece around “room” though. And what it really means. A niche post perhaps but then “fit” has always been so core to PS, and the way your own journey through fit has evolved is fascinating in its own right, I think.
Yes I agree Chris, and these points around correct fit, intended fit, personal style fit, are worth elucidating
Yes the move towards a “roomier fit “ is an interesting topic and I would also like to read more about it. I also think that parts of the website are a bit outdated in that regard. (E.g. the post on your trouser measurements with a leg width of 19cm, if I remember correctly. Based on the more recent pictures, I’d say that you are currently closer to 21cm or even 22cm.)
As you also note in the post above, when first getting into bespoke/MTM, one is often fascinated the possibility of getting a rather close fit. But this will not always result in the silhouette one actually wants, and it might not even result in the “best fit” based on one’s actual fit preferences (which are often opaque to the novice and requie quite a bit of trial and error to pin down). These points arguably also apply to tailoring (as is evidenced by your own gradual shift towards a roomier fit for shirts, trousers, jackets etc.). But they definitely apply to a lot of casual clothes and knitwear that simply look better if the fit is a bit roomier.
I also think that the general tailoring trope that “fit” is quite objective, whereas “silhouette” is more subjective, tends to downplay these nuances. If personal experience is any guide, I initially made more fit/silhouette mistakes when buying tailoring than I did when buying casual clothes. This was partly because I was guided by the assumption that the people selling me tailoring know the “correct” way to wear it, whereas with casual clothes I just followed my own gut instincts (i.e. my own sense of the proportions that I like). But I guess it also was an important factor that I had access to better shop staff for casual clothes (VMC in Zurich) than I had for tailoring at the time…
Very good points Liam, and yes I agree.
Trouser wise, nearly everything I have is 20cm these days but I am occasionally considering 21cm.
Hi Simon,
On the very last picture, it looks like there are scuff marks on the pocket exterior. Same for the tip of the left shoulder.
As someone new to leatherwear, I’m wondering 3 things: Do these scuff marks come easily from normal wear (as the jacket looks very new)? Is it indicative of anything regarding quality/durability? And is it easy to maintain to the Chapal jacket just at home?
Currently freezing in Paris, and I’m considering buying a Chapal, especially after seeing how your old one aged. Although I don’t mind scuffing a leather jacket, a Chapal is a couple times the price, and I hope to understand the phenomenon better before making a decision.
Of course. Those scuff marks are from a particular encounter with a wall I wasn’t expecting, but to be honest scuffs like that will build up and only add to the character of the jacket – it’s what you want, there just aren’t quite enough yet. You can apply a little oil over time, but it will barely need it. Scuffs fade into the background and become part of the overall patina.
Never trust leather that doesn’t age!
Thanks, Simon 🙂
Also would love that article breaking down the cost of luxury products for brands like Chapal!
Question for you: if you weren’t looking for a larger jacket but rather adjusting excess fabric in the chest or shoulder, would you have simply gone to Cromford and had it adjusted?
If I was looking to make it smaller in that regard? Yes I probably would have done, or at least shown it to them and asked about alterations
And what about the decision between the USAAF model and the G1; how’d you make that decision? Both have similar backs, collars, and ribbed finishing.
Seems the USAAF has a flap over the zipper and slightly different proportions. How’d you select one over another?
There isn’t that much of a different to be honest, but from what I recall the USAAF might have a slightly bigger shape. Worth checking with them though as it’s years since I tried on the G1
Hi Simon, have you ever tried the Y2 jackets, and if yes what is your take on their quality?
I have, and yes the quality is high, though I find the fits and designs often a little quirky. I’ve almost bought one a couple of times but felt it was a little too strong a style for me
Whats a good rule of thumb for the proper length for a bomber like this? I’m currently having one made custom and the first mock-up is came back hitting halfway down the fly which seems too long
That does seem a touch long, but I’d go more off how it sits on the waist – the crucial thing for a bomber is that the ribbing at the back sits on your waistband, giving their blouson shape above it. And when fastened, you want the front to sit at that point as well roughly
Thank you sir!