Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...

November 23rd 2022

In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...

Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...

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Ben, as I a non European person, I winner what you mean by ‘ any attempt at comprehensiveness appears parochial and Eurocentric’. Surely a man is allowed to focus his writing on what he knows best. A japanese person ...

Casual clothing - JacketsNovember 23rd 2022

The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review

November 11th 2022

By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...

The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review

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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...

JacketsNovember 11th 2022

Reader profile: Shun

October 17th 2022

With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...

Reader profile: Shun

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Many thanks for this thoughtful and honest response Andrew, much appreciated!...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 17th 2022

My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...

October 5th 2022

  This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good ca...

My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...

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Perhaps, yes, for a slightly smarter/sharper look...

Jackets - October 5th 2022

Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...

October 3rd 2022

Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...

Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...

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Yes, absolutely...

Coats - JacketsOctober 3rd 2022

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

August 29th 2022

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

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Probably a size up, you don't want them to be too tight...

Jackets - Socks and underwearAugust 29th 2022

Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations

August 22nd 2022

By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...

Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations

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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....

JacketsAugust 22nd 2022

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

August 3rd 2022

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

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No it didn't, it keeps on dropping down the list! if you search for Rome you'll find most of the places, but we do need to do a proper shopping list at some point...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 3rd 2022

Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...

July 29th 2022

How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...

Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...

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No, it's pretty much the same. Just tiny changes from being a different cutter...

JacketsJuly 29th 2022

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

July 11th 2022

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

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Thank you for the education....

JacketsJuly 11th 2022

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

June 27th 2022

By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

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so grateful for this article. I had forgotten that service could be like this. My ancient Barbour was made usable again without being stripped of its character. an excellent service....

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 27th 2022

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

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I don't think I'd worry on the coolness point, as it is so lightweight, but yes I think you'll find the trousers too flimsy to get long-term wear out of. Sorry, it otherwise sounded like a great plan!...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...

June 20th 2022

By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...

Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...

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Good morning and a great article...

Hanks and scarves - JacketsJune 20th 2022

Reader profile: Cedric

June 17th 2022

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...

Reader profile: Cedric

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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 17th 2022

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

June 1st 2022

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

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No worries John, nothing is ever too late. The fabric has held up well, but it's never going to be something I wear intensely, so it's not necessarily a fair test. It has given me enough confidence to commission somethin...

Cloth - JacketsJune 1st 2022

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

May 18th 2022

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

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I don't, sorry James. And yes, it's often fairly expensive, though it will vary a lot with the mills...

JacketsMay 18th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

May 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

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I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...

Jackets - SuitsMay 16th 2022

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

May 11th 2022

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...

The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...

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Interesting, yes they are still put on the bias as far as I know...

JacketsMay 11th 2022

This feels like me

May 2nd 2022

I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...

This feels like me

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Ecru as a colour would - navy is harder, as we covered here. Chinos as a whole with jackets is a tricky one though. Better with a Drake's style (very unstructured and casual), harder with a more tailored one...

Jackets - StyleMay 2nd 2022

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

April 29th 2022

  A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...

The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...

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I thought it was a "hump"....

JacketsApril 29th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

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Regarding Trumpers. Apart from ordering a tub of Almond Shaving Cream which is utterly superb and highly concentrated in a very generous 200g tub... probably the best value of all the prestige London barbers, I asked for...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

April 13th 2022

I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...

Introducing: The Linen Harrington

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I'd focus on the performance intended, probably, rather than having other similar materials. If you want that waterproof aspect then definitely go with the Ventile, but it is a rather different piece, in that this is ver...

JacketsApril 13th 2022

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 6th 2022

Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...

J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review

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Hmm, thanks Joel...

JacketsApril 6th 2022

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

March 30th 2022

This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...

Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review

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Thanks! Indeed not perhaps the best choice for this but was considering to get one of their horsehide jackets some day. Glad to hear good things about them....

JacketsMarch 30th 2022

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

February 25th 2022

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

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100%....

Coats - JacketsFebruary 25th 2022