When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto.
Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century American style, and from what I’ve seen produces a beautiful bespoke product. I’ve seen lovely tailoring he’s made for Mark Cho of The Armoury (where he conducts trunk shows) and several others.
The style has never been quite for me, mostly because of the higher fastening of the jackets and the straighter cut. Were I around in that period in the US, I imagine I’d have been an early adopter of the alternative: the new darted jackets and ‘continental’ look.
However, the jacket Seiji had had made really appealed to me, and I thought it was worth sharing on PS. Its heavier weight and more casual style also made it more of a coat substitute than a tailored jacket, which goes to a recent theme of mine as regards tailoring.
The jacket is a rugged, heavier version of a style Yamamoto calls his Newport jacket.
It’s double-breasted, with four buttons (4x2) and patch pockets. The two hip pockets are flapped, it has two vents, brass buttons and features his characteristic (very Ivy) edge stitching.
Seiji requested it to be made in a heavy-duty 550g (19oz) melton wool, and Yamamoto widened the lapels (more forties style) to better match Seiji’s preferred wide-legged trousers. It’s the kind of special make-up Yamamoto loves doing.
I think it really suited Seiji and how he dresses, which is Ivy-influenced but rarely formal. Here he’s wearing the Bryceland’s sweatshirt and Bryceland’s Army chinos in jelt denim, a PS watch cap and his own cordovan loafers.
It also functioned very well for him and what he does. Seiji doesn’t wear a jacket indoors much, but then he spends a lot of his time on his knees measuring feet, or doing manual labour on some combination of leather and wood. Tailoring rarely makes sense.
(Side point: this also makes him one of those people that has the most annoyingly and achingly well-faded workwear. It’s almost enough to make me want to take up a craft. If I wasn’t awful at it.)
But when did put the jacket on, Seiji looked great - dressed up and stylish. This was always outside of course, but could also be inside, when meeting a customer for the first time perhaps.
Seiji says: “I remember when I showed it to Ethan [Newton] he said: ‘Congratulations, you’ve had something made bespoke that doesn’t look like bespoke!’ But for me it’s perfect, it’s exactly what I needed and couldn’t find anywhere else.”
I think there will be quite a few PS readers who will identify with not wearing a jacket indoors all the time, but who would like the option and also like something that can become outwear (perhaps with the addition of a hat and scarf). This could be something unusual and naval, like Seiji’s jacket, but it could also be simply a heavier tailored jacket.
That’s how I’ve enjoyed wearing my double-breasted jacket from Assisi (above) over the winter. Its weight and size meant I could use it as outerwear with a sweater underneath, a scarf and a hat. But I could also wear it on its own as a jacket too.
When I travelled to Korea recently, it was a great piece to take because it could do double duty - a coat alternative on a mild day, but also a normal jacket on a cold one.
In the outfit above I’m wearing it with a grey Finest Crewneck and a large cashmere shawl from Begg - the combination of knit, DB tweed and big scarf around the neck was easily warm enough that day.
But below I’m wearing it with just a pink oxford shirt and black jeans, and had a raincoat with me over the top, so the tweed was functioning more as a jacket.
It’s funny Seiji mentioned Ethan, because the success of that tweed from Assisi has also prompted me to commission a navy blazer from them, partly inspired by Ethan’s jacket from tailor Anglofilo (below).
Ethan has frequently worn it when travelling to London, and it seems to have that same versatility (his is made from camelhair). Stylistically it also sits somewhere between a normal jacket and Seiji’s design, given it has the brass buttons and edge stitching.
I’m a little unsure about brass buttons myself, having had them on my bespoke pea coat and later removed them. So I’ve gone for normal horn buttons to start with but could always add them later.
(I actually have some lovely buttons that Gieves & Hawkes made for me for this travel blazer project with my college’s crest on them. They’ve been looking for a home since.)
What would I advise for a PS reader looking to commission something similar? It’s early days for me too, but it feels like the key is something in a jacket length but a heavier weight - perhaps between 15 and 20oz.
It helps if it’s double-breasted, for the casual style and for the warmth. My Solito jacket here is just as heavy, but misses something in being single breasted.
And I’d stay with a fairly classic colour, but use a material with a bit more texture. Tweed and melton certainly fall into that category, but so can camelhair or even cashmere if they have a bit more of that texture.
Let me know if you find yourself wearing any jacket of yours performing a similar function.
Details on any of the other clothes upon request. Just shout. Equally for all Tailor Caid details including prices. [email protected]. Apologies for the lack of a shot of Seiji's jacket closed. If I ever get one I'll add it!
Actually thinking about commissioning a single breasted Assisi coat in the same fabric as your zizolfi tweed. Do you think this fabric could serve the same function?
Yes I do, that would be nice
I have a double breasted jacket in 20oz fox herringbone overcoating and love it. I have woken it with converse and turtleneck for a more casual look and with flannels and tie. Surprisingly the latter combination, worn to a restaurant recently, didn’t feel too hot. If you like heavier fabrics as I do I would highly recommend considering such a piece. Although perhaps after you have a couple of staples in your wardrobe already. May I ask you Simon which cloth you went for for your Assisi navy blazer?
It’s a Harris tweed
I have a thick grey herringbone jacket from Caruso, which is too warm for indoors most of the time. I mostly use it as a jacket for outside. The fact that the jacket was so thick was a surprise. I bought it on YOOX, where you’re never 100% sure what you’re going to get.
That is a lovely jacket.
I just want to say, that for those of us running hot, living in warmer climate or feeling overdressed in jackets, jacket as outerwear is the perfect way to wear tailoring!
Hi Simon, I frequently wear my heavier tweed jackets (for example my Russell check) like this in spring and fall, often with a rollneck underneath. They are all SB, which with as well as long as it isn’t too cold or windy. All the best, Andrew
Those jeans give Ethan a masculine look and work with his build. On Seiji they look really bad. This is the first time I have ever posted a negative opinion.
They’re not the same jeans George, just in case that was confusing.
But as to Seiji’s, it’s a very different look, maybe one that’s not to your taste.
I believe Ethan wears jeans and Seiji wears chino’s, maybe it’s the chino’s being in denim that doesn’t click for you. Personally I think they’re one of the best models that brycleands produces as you get the casualness of denim but with a more classic trouser design that allows for it to work better with tailored garments in my view.
Everyone sails their own ship as they say.
My SB in the PS Harris Tweed – while perhaps a little light in such weighty company – is often worn with a sweater underneath, as outerwear during spring and autumn. I often walk the dogs in it, when the weather is suitable. I specifically requested a “workhorse” jacket from the tailor, intended primarily as outerwear, and it has delivered on that very well.
I have to say, that navy blazer worn by Ethan Newton is beautiful. As a large chap myself I tend to prefer DB jackets, which some might feel is strange given that a DB can look blocky – but I find them, as here, much more flattering when properly fitted than an equivalent SB. Maybe it’s a case of embracing ones build and being comfortable? Ethan’s jacket is exemplary!
Yes I think it’s a great example of how flattering a DB can be on a bigger guy. It’s about getting that flattering diagonal of the lapels and wider shoulders to point at
I commissioned something of this ilk from Saman Amel last year using a ca. 600g wool-cashmere coating with a very soft drapey hand. I sized up overall to create space for heavier knits. I find that overall this price works best as intended – a coat replacement. It feels at home with denims and casual trousers – shirts sans tie and knits. The times I’ve styled this as more of a formal look I’ve found it felt out of place. Plus, this was piece was truly a little too warm to wear indoors.
Nice looks. A heavier jacket is certainly more versatile if it can be used as outerwear. I’ve been wanting to comission a heavy navy DB jacket but it’s difficult to find the right fabric. Perhaps I ought to look at overcoating bunches. I’d like something smoother than tweed but with enough texture to work as a separate jacket. Melton sounds interesting. What is the definition of melton by the way, Simon?
It’s a tightly woven woollen with a real nap and heavily milled – to give it that surface texture. It would be quite stiff for most tailored jackets though, at least anything remotely fitted.
Do look at overcoating bunches, especially Italian ones. But if in doubt don’t go too heavy
I have a SB jacket in an 18oz tweed and I can wear it inside if the heating isn’t too high (as well as using it as outerwear), so I would aim for a similar weight for a DB.
Does Melton work for Seiji because he’s jacket is not very fitted?
Yes, exactly, and constructed less like a tailored jacket
What’s the area you most expect to see trouble in? My only point of comparison is that I’ve got a 24oz Melton jacket from Schott that’s pretty fitted (https://tateandyoko.com/products/712-wool-mechanics-jacket-navy) and don’t find it too limiting.
Anywhere where the fit might be close, for example around the armhole, or places like that where more curved shape is needed. A tailored jacket would be a little different from a casual blouson-type jacket like that Schott
Hi Simon,
I was wondering if you could share the details of the tobacco coloured scarf you’re wearing with the Assisi jacket? I think you might have mentioned it before, so sorry if this question is a repeat. Is it a Begg and if so could you let us know the colour and model?
Many thanks, as always.
Hey,
Yes it’s a Begg but I’m afraid it’s many years old and I don’t know the model or colour name
I love the look, and function, of Seiji’s jacket, which reminds me quite a bit of a double-breasted Games blazer from Drake’s that I own.
https://us.drakes.com/products/navy-melton-wool-games-blazer-mk-iii
It’s made from a 15oz melton, and has a few details, like non-button cuffs and an unvented back, that push it a bit closer to outerwear, something like a blazer/pea coat hybrid. A simple, brilliant detail that I quite enjoy is that its lapels can be turned upward and fastened with a concealed button, giving it the coverage of an overcoat.
This very idea has been a goal of mine for many years but struggle to find something off the peg and unwilling to invest heavily in something that might not work.
If we set the scene a little, we are rarely out in the cold for very long anymore and most interior spaces are climate controlled.
So, big heavy coats are not needed and become an encumbrance, like me with an umbrella, it will use it once or twice before leaving it somewhere. Yet I still want something that is going to protect me for the times I am out in the cold but looks elegant.
The reality in the UK our weather is rarely extreme and when it is get out a big coat, it is the majority of the time when you want protection against the wind and rain.
I find single breasted jackets let in the cold around neck and groin, which is why I think double breasted with flip up collar has an attraction.
I think Seiji’s jacket is onto something but still looks more like a peacoat than jacket and I do like a peacoat.
Alan Flusser does a Slack Jacket, single breasted, but is still coming from the same direction of tailored halfway house. Motoluxe and Loro Piana do single breasted jackets in warm materials.
Similarly lots of heavy duty tweeds are available but rarely in double breasted, I am assuming because too bulky. Which brings me back to the problem of single breasted mentioned above.
I suspect getting double breasted jackets to look good off the peg for most people in a heavier material is just too complicated or indeed impossible be commercial.
Am I trying to do too much with one garment. May be it is not possible, but the idea of buttoned up against the weather and unbuttoned in doors.
I do have wool cashmere zip up black jacket that achieves the weather protection functions, but not the sartorial requirements. Wool/ cashmere / alpaca seems to be the warm but breathable options.
Lastly, I am with you on brass buttons, they draw the eye too much and whatever you are wearing becomes secondary to the buttons and of course the feeling they should be reserved for retired members of the admiralty.
I often wear a jacket, cardigan and scarf in lieu of an overcoat on milder autumn and winter days. It’s easier to take off a cardigan and scarf and put them in my bag than carry an overcoat around if it warms up in the afternoon. I tend to stick to no more than 13oz fabrics though, as any heavier and it can get too warm indoors.
Is there any chance you could cover Tailor Caid through a guest post at some point? Their tailored Ivy style sets them apart from other tailors and it would be interesting to see it broken down in the way you have with other tailoring styles.
Sure, good point Alan
If I wanted the blue jacket where would i go
You would go to Tailor Caid, Dick
hi Simon
great idea. Do you think that this type of jacket can be worn slightly longer?
My jacket length would be 28.5 . Could I get away with an inch longer? Or does this jacket still have to fit perfectly?
It could be a touch longer, yes, though bear in mind when a DB is unbuttoned it will look a little longer. I’d also say an inch is quite a lot
Does anyone have experience of Dugdale Fearnought 17.6oz Merino wool.
It sounds like a suitable fabric!
That would probably be better as a suiting, Neil. It’s certainly heavy and tough, but I think it might be too sharp for a jacket in this mould
Apologies for the double comment, but have been turning this question over in my head. When a jacket is worn primarily as outerwear like Seiji’s, should its sleeve length conform to the standards of a sport jacket or an overcoat? My own Drake’s Games Blazer I referenced shows around a quarter inch of shift cuff, which is fine for a shirt jacket, but feels short for outerwear. Can’t quite decide if this is worth addressing.
I don’t think it’s a big issue either way Eric, but I would say keep the length the same on your jacket, as it sounds like it looks more like a jacket, but Seiji’s has a little more of a peacoat air and is probably better with overcoat length
I love how Seiji’s jacket is really a pea coat that is skinned like a blazer. It’s an inspiring concept that I have never thought of before, but now it’s something I would love to copy myself. I have a few vintage heavy tweed jackets that I wear as outerwear because when the temperature is just right for them outdoors it’s too warm for them indoors.
I love the idea of using a blazer as a coat but in such a case I would wear a jumper and most of my tailor made jackets do not fit well over a jumper. So the alternatives are having a jacket made on purpose to be worn with a jumper or thinking of a blazer with some adjusters to regulate the fit but I do not know if it is workable.
Yes, I think that’s an issue and you’re best having any coat you think you’ll wear in this manner cut a little bigger to accomodate the possibility of a knit. You’ll see my Assisi jacket looks a little big on me here without a sweater underneath, but I’m fine with that
I wear a thrifted checked tweed like this. It’s not really good for actual smart outfits, but it works just fine over casual outfits. It’s not a DB, but it’s good enough.
Hi Simon, great article as always. Coincidentally, I’ve been contemplating commissioning a jacket which can also serve as outerwear in cooler weather. Would you recommend a navy or grey herringbone? Looking at Fox tweed TD12 or TD13 – do you think they would be nice?
Yes, they’d be great
Without wishing to rain on the parade I commissioned a DB marine/nautical blazer with 6 buttons in a fairly heavy midnight blue overcoat material. I find it way too hot ever to wear indoors and yet not really something to keep one warm outside as it lacks length. Sadly it sits in the wardrobe waiting for its moment to come. Just my thoughts!
Hi! Simon, would you please comment on my new bespoke suit?
Unfortunately I can only post one picture, I don’t know why?
Hi there,
Yes the system only allows one per comment, sorry. You can leave extra ones with additional comments.
From what I can see the suit looks quite nice, if perhaps a little close in the waist, just under the ribs. I might let it out there for a nicer drape. The cuatway from the waist button is also quite sharp – it might help with that.
This comes with many caveats though – the main ones being that it’s hard to tell that much accurately online with images, and that bespoke’s fit in particular really comes across in person and with movement
Hi Simon! Even if letting it out there may reduce the degree of waist suppression? Is it really going to have nicer drape?
And can you guide me how to asses the quality of work or workmanship? 😅
Yes. Consider that the coat has been specifically designed to have a certain silhouette, a particular line down the sides, and that this will be changed but only in the bottom half. Just be cautious.
On the work, the main thing is that it should be neat and clean. You shouldn’t notice any difference to the work elsewhere on the coat.
Thank you so much for your responses.
I have a piece of fabric I wanna make a suit out of it, can you give me any suggestions regarding the suit style from looking at the fabric, please?
I wouldn’t say the cloth determines the style that much. It looks like a pretty fine wool and would make a smartish suit, but that could still be anything from a double-breasted to a three-roll-two single breasted
The colour of that Begg scarf is just wonderful against the greys. Lovely textures too. Simple, understated, sophisticated, contemporary.
Thanks Jim, I did find it rather pleasing!
Reminds me of this brilliant suit from Davide Taub – designed for a stroll in the woods, I believe. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cx-iQ41smZ7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Timely article because i’ve been experimenting with this exact concept this winter, to much success! I have a collection of “hairy” jackets in tweed, camel hair, and flannel, that I often found surprisingly difficult to wear during winter because they are too bulky to wear under an overcoat, so I usually avoided them altogether. But this winter I stopped wearing the overcoat, instead layering a sweater beneath the jacket, and this has been the perfect solution. When outdoors, the jacket is plenty warm enough to protect from the elements. Once indoors, I can remove the jacket if I get too warm and still have a presentable outfit beneath with the sweater. Or instead remove the sweater if the occasion requires a jacket. The only problem is that now i rarely wear my awesome collection of overcoats!
Have been debating on best cloth for exactly this idea. If you were commissioning something from scratch now, with this idea in mind, what would you choose Simon? I was leaning towards a thick cord, but seeing the herringbone I wonder if thats a more versatile choice. I’m also using more knitwear under tailoring. Maybe a herringbone can also lend itself to more tonal and less contrast which I’m more drawn to.
I think you’re right Steven, and if I could only have one I’d go for that grey herringbone tweed still
Hi again Simon, thanks for responding to a few questions in the last couple days. Working on ideas for a commission and really appreciating your advice.
I find the concept of a DB jacket functioning partially as a coat really compelling. However, I tend to associate DB jackets with “old fashioned” and formal. I am considering a navy DB jacket in a heavier textured material, mainly to wear with denim. I have a few ideas for how to reduce some of these associations and would love to know what you think. The ideas are 1) reduce the lapel width so that the peak doesn’t extend much (if at all) beyond the collar 2) use 4 buttons, and perhaps 4×1 pattern 3) slightly shorten the jacket maybe by an inch (30 to 29).
Hey Lucas,
No worries at all.
On your points, I don’t think 1 or 2 will make much difference to be honest, and 4 buttons is a mistake I’ve made before.
Shortening will make a difference, but after that it will about the material, the softness of the make, the general relaxed nature of the cut, and how you wear it (eg undone, eg with hands in pockets)
Thank you for the guidance. Regarding the four buttons, what did you find that you didn’t like about that configuration?
Someone suggested to me that the model 16 jacket from The Armoury might be a good MTO or MTM option, if done in the right material:
https://www.thearmoury.com/model-16
However, I’m wondering if the full canvas construction and slightly extended shoulder might be too structured. I’m curious what you would think about trying to wear something like the model 16 in this way (functioning as a coat, with denim)?
The four buttons just felt a little artificial, a little gimmicky. Even if they did work I don’t think it would make the jacket that much more casual myself.
Full canvas is not structured, it’s just normal for good tailoring. Structure is the weight of the canvas and the thickness of the shoulder pad. The shoulder there also looks pretty natural and not that extended – I think it would be a good choice for that kind of look
Oh my, is there ever a lot to learn! Thank you Simon. It’s a huge help!
Do you think that the Moon lambswool twill (code PL375 10/13) that you recommended in your article on navy jacket and jeans would work?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/08/navy-jacket-and-jeans-with-recommended-cloths.html
In that article, I think your criteria was more focused on a fabric that could work as a capsule piece, and I’m wondering if the Moon material would be warm enough to serve this jacket-as-coat function?
Spier and Mackay has a MTO DB jacket with the Moon fabric as an option. The style, in a different fabric, is here: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/beige-seersucker—double-breast–54500-699701-dbsc-01-ss23
What do you think are the benefits of The Armoury relative to something like S&M, assuming the same fabric and MTO used in both cases? In other words, what differences determine the difference in price?
Hey Lucas,
That material would be nice, yes. You could go heavier, but it should be ok. I wouldn’t go any lighter.
I don’t know the details, but The Armoury ones will definitely be made better – it may be the hand-attached collar, buttonholes, I’m not sure, but these two are offering quite different things to the market: Armoury high-end RTW with physical shops and more styling, and Spier more a value option but still great value for what it is
Hi Simon, I hope you’re well. Circling back to this after some additional thought. I’ve found additional (heavier) fabric options and wondering if you would weigh in.
A Fox covert: https://foxflannel.com/collections/coating/products/fox-midnight-covert-cloth
Huddersfield herringbone: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/258142
Dugdale herringbone: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/fearnought/product/fea011-dug14420/colour/dark_navy_herringbone/page/269/
I’m a little hesitant about wearing the covert with denim. Ideally I would like something less rough than tweed, maybe even something soft and a bit lush as long as it can work with denim. Any chance you could weigh in on the above options, or suggest any other cloths that might work?
I think you might find covert and Fearnought a little smooth and sharp. I’d say something more like one of my two Fox overcoatings – the B&Tailor or the Ettore de Cesare
Thanks Simon – the CT12 that you used for the Ettore coat looks great.
Can I ask a couple more questions? I’m curious if there are advantages to using the CT12 versus camel hair in a similar weight.? The lushness of camel hair is appealing but I’m wondering if there would be any major drawbacks.
For a jacket for this purpose and weight, is it ok to have some structure, particularly in the shoulder? I’m considering something with moderate structure, a little bit of shoulder padding and a bit more canvas than the very unstructured Neapolitan jackets I usually wear. I’d appreciate any insights as this is new territory for me.
Personally I don’t think you should have much structure Lucas. You want it pretty soft, to keep it fairly casual. Err on the side of less.
Camel hair is great, it would just be a little less hard wearing, but have the lustre and a more luxurious feel.
hi Simon
Intrigued by the Ethan camel hair jacket.
i don’t hear of camel hair so much these days. Drake stopped doing their camel hair vest and I don’t spot many in Burlington arcade as I used to.
could it not be used more as a mixture?
is it not that versatile?
Camel can be mixed with wools, yes, though doesn’t tend to be as much.
It can be quite versatile, but only if you want something that bridges smart and casual in a way – like cashmere but without the sheen or delicacy
Simon
i don’t recall you ordering something in camel. Have you not considered it?
I have, and I have the polo coat with Anthology in camelhair
Hi Simon!
You touch a topic that highly interests me. I only love heavy fabrics (to me, they just feel so much better when you touch them and wear them). I am about to commission a jacket from The Anthology Team. Their classic 6×2 MTO blazer, which has the comfy style of Seiji’s jacket. We went back and forth about fabric choices, as I’d like an everyday jacket/coat that works for 3 seasons. Problem is: do I want the 3rd season to be Winter or Summer (the others would be Spring/Autumn)? So I’m thinking about which fabric feels more special for a casual yet beautiful jacket that may work as a transitional coat over a sweater … And this is where I’d like your advice. My two top choices are:
Hey Isaia,
To be honest I’d be quite uncertain about either of those. Have you seen them made up into a jacket already?
The linen hopsack would be rather different to my jacket – sharper and more formal. The Windsor one also looks rather pale and a bit more like a sharper material, more for suits or trousers.
I have not. I was just perusing fabrics of that weight that would work for a sport jacket in my preferred palette (which is neutral earthly tones). The Windsor may indeed be a tad too pale. I did like the linen, but if too formal to be paired with jeans or chinos, I will keep searching!
If it is not too much trouble, would you kindly express your opinion on two more Fox cloths? The “ecru grey mélange” and the “Hollywood chestnut”? Both from their archives. Many thanks!!
Yes most linens are too smart to wear with jeans or chinos, it’s not really what they’re designed for – hence why I’ve often sought out unusual ones.
An earthy tone could be great, but it will be harder to find the right colour and texture (much harder than a navy/black etc). You might even have some luck looking at lightweight Italian coatings for something that is more the cold-weather end.
Could you link to those two materials? They’re just colour descriptions so hard to tell much otherwise
I have not. Just perusing cloths that I like.
If it is not too much trouble, would you mind sharing your thoughts on 2 more Fox cloths for an odd jacket?
– the Hollywood Chestnut
– the Grey Ecru mélange
Thanks !!
Hey Isaia – no need to leave comments twice. The previous one was there, just awaiting moderation (I do this less on the weekends!)
My deepest apologies for commenting twice. I thought I hadn’t posted my first comment. I found this cloth which I really like. It would be, of course, more of an autumn/winter coat. What do you think?
https://foxflannel.com/products/exmoor-overcoating-beige-twill
No worries. That looks nice. A slightly strong brown, but could be really lovely
Thank you for your opinion, which I highly value. The Anthology team actually showed me a photo of the cloth sample and it is not as intense a brown as in the photos by Fox. I quite love it and chose this for the jacket! Will share a photo once ready.
Thanks, please do
However, the jacket Seiji had had made really appealed to me, and I thought it was worth sharing on PS – there is a mistake “had” two times
Tailor Caid is one of the kind tailor – just like Sack cut. Love Ivy style
Thanks Norman
Actually Norman, that is correct – it sounds awkward of course, but it’s the tense meant. He had (in the past) had it made. Thanks