Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels.
So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've never covered.
Readers will be familiar with the reasons it works with jeans, from a style point of view.
It has a natural shoulder, without much padding and no roping - so the shoulder runs smoothly down into the sleeve. It is cut a little shorter than an English jacket would be, and is quite open in the foreparts - below the waist button.
There are also style choices I made myself, in order to make it more casual: patch pockets, brown buttons, three buttons rolling to two.
The harder thing is the material, and this is what attracted most questions from readers.
Navy is a great, versatile colour for a jacket, but being dark it is inherently smart.
So it needs a rougher material and greater texture to make it casual.
Having a pattern in the weave helps a lot with the texture: a herringbone is the most versatile - as shown here - but a pronounced twill or donegal also works.
The tricky thing to communicate to readers is what the fibre should be. Something like cashmere is too soft and shiny, and therefore smart. Tweed is the opposite: coarse, hairy, definitely casual. Which works with jeans, but some people don’t like its hairiness, or feel it is a little old-fashioned.
The truth is, there are lots of interesting options in between, but they can be hard to describe. Finer woollens? Softer tweeds? There’s no neat categorisation.
I spent a little time with the bunches at Steven Hitchcock recently, and here are a few I’d recommend.
At the softer end of the spectrum is Moonbeam from Harrison’s. It’s 75% lambswool and 25% angora, and I had a lovely jacket made out of it by Steven a few years ago, in grey. It still feels luxurious, but without the sheen of cashmere. It just about works with jeans. There is a nice dark navy herringbone, 35015, 10/11oz.
Another luxury option is camelhair, which isn’t as luxe as cashmere (or as expensive) but still feels lovely and soft. Like Moonbeam, I think it only just works with jeans. My favourite is 4/02, 330/350g, from Piacenza (Dunes bunch).
Then there are the plain 'wools'. There is no easy way to describe these - most tailoring materials are wool after all. But these are woollens rather than worsteds, and definitely woven for jacketing. Loro Piana always has great options here, and I’d go for 667032, 370g - or 667019, 320g, which is bit more luxe as it's Super 170s and 6% cashmere.
After that things get a little hairier. W Bill shetlands are really nice - much of the feeling of Harris Tweed, but not quite as coarse or scratchy. There is a herringbone - WB12124 - that is 12/13oz and just the right shade.
My favourite, though, of these more tweedy options is from Moon. A lambswool twill around 11oz, it has a lot of texture but is quite loose and open. It’s code is PL375 10/13. There are lots of other nice colours in there too, and Moon is always great value for money.
My jacket was made in a Fox Brothers overcoating - lambswool, 20/21g, TW121 / A1440 / 12.
I wouldn’t recommend it for your one, versatile navy jacket though. The colour and weave are perfect, but it’s very heavy for a jacket, and a little denser and solid than most jacketings.
Certainly unusual - a jacket with 'character' - but not the safest choice.
The pictures also demonstrate how I wear a jacket with jeans, keeping everything simple and casual.
So slightly tapered jeans, in a denim that, although dark indigo, has enough fading to separate it from the navy of the jacket. Anything from this to mid-blue would be fine.
A light blue PS Oxford button-down shirt: casual in its material and in its style. And worn over a white T-shirt to be even more casual. With one extra button undone. Strong opinions on that, please, on this post.
The shoes are unlined brown-suede Dovers from Edward Green. A nice halfway between smart and casual. Smart because it’s dark brown, in a slim last, with a small welt. Casual because it’s a split-toe and a derby, as well as being suede.
It’s no coincidence that I was also wearing those shoes in my last piece on a jacket and jeans, here.
That mid-brown colour of jacket is a lot easier to wear with jeans, as the colour is so much more casual than navy. It's cashmere: but such a hairy cashmere, with a big herringbone, that it works just fine.
For those that want more in this area, there’s also a good jacket-and-jeans post here. Again a brown jacket, but this time Harris Tweed. And boots that aren’t that different to the Dovers, being dark brown and slim, but in a casual leather.
Brown-suede loafers would also have worked with any of these.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt. Below, sneakily snapping me snapping more ironwork.
when you say a jacket of this nature is slightly shorter than a typical English one, what is the length of this compared to say your Steven Hitchcocks?
The typical measurements are all set out in the Guide to Tailor Styles, if you want to look in more detail.
The Steven Hitchcock jackets usually have a back length of 31 3/4 inches. The Solitos are about an inch shorter, 30 1/2
what about open weaves like hopsacks or basket weaves with jeans?
also does the same jacket above work with tailored trousers given shorter length?
The problem with those weaves is they’re a bit too hard/crisp and therefore formal.
And yes, this works with tailored trousers too, as with other Solito jackets I’ve featured
Interesting and useful article, as always. But a question: may I ask why do you wear a t shirt? From what I know one should never wear one under a dress shirt but I could be wrong.
It’s not a right and wrong thing, more style – there are reasons why you wouldn’t, but more with a smarter outfit
There’s a whole article on it here:
I think the t-shirt thing ruins the look. Normally, I am not so dogmatic about these things, but I find the t-shirt completely cheapens the look without adding anything to it.
On a separate note, I really like the jacket. I think there is something very satisfying about heavier jackets like this one.
Also, I think a white oxford or a striped oxford–red and white or yellow and white–would have been quite nice in this outfit.
Stripes are nice. I have tried a white like this, and it’s a little too smart. Makes the top half look too formal
If anyone wants more discussion on the T-shirt under shirt thing, have a look, read and even comment on the original post on that, here
Thanks Simon, going to read it. I’ve asked cause in my places ( Southern Italy) you see the combo suit or sport coat+dress shirt+t-shirt only worn by old men and almost never by young ones. When asked my old ones claim the t-shirt is a shield from cold in the winter and from sweat in the summer. But I am pretty sure the environment we live has a huge impact on such preferences too.
True. It’s something Americans wear a lot more (of different ages) for similar reasons.
I think it can be useful to edge a tailored outfit towards the more casual, if you that’s something you want. It has a working, pretty vibe
Widely worn in hot/humid climates to absorb sweat and save the shirt from becoming a mess.
True, though certainly not in all – it’s much rarer in southern Europe, for example.
Lovely tonal outfit. Any thoughts on lighter weight summer cloths? This is where I really struggle with jacket materials that work with jeans or chinos…
That’s definitely harder than cold weather. Something like a heavier linen herringbone would be nice
Simon, on the Dovers – chocolate or snuff suede?
Thanks Simon. In the market for these – yours are a 202 last and thin rubber sole? Deciding between yours or the 606 last, lined, leather sole in espresso suede. Any advice? Thank you very much.
Yes, that’s right Alan.
The 606 is a slightly squarer toe – really a style question which you prefer. Perhaps, arguably, the square toe is a little smarter.
I think that’s the main point in choosing between the two. And remember you can order either model with the other make-up from Edward Green without any surcharge, I think.
Simon, is it technically possible to have a fused jacket “upgraded” to a canvased jacket by a local (alterations) tailor? Thank you!
I don’t think so, and even if it was, you’d basically be remaking the whole jacket. It would be cheaper to buy a new one
What do you think about heavy moleskin for a navy jacket? Also I think some merchants may do a navy Escorial- which I notice is not a colour you have included in the PS shop range.
Personally I don’t like moleskin that much, I prefer other cottons, whether twills or cords.
It would depend on the weave, but navy Escorial would likely be too smart for jeans.
The reason why I have avoided wearing jeans with jackets is that i’m afraid that the indigo dye (from the waistband) will transfer to the cloth of my shirt (and I dont really see the point in wearing a jacket without a shirt or even polo shirt underneath). Especially so with raw denim that’s expected to fade. I understand the charm of a faded and aged pear of jeans but for me, I dont want to risk my shirts or my jackets having denim “stains”. I don’t even like it when it jeans “stain” the uppers of my suede boots. Is there anyway around this? or should I have a dedicated set of shirts which I should be okay with having some indigo stains?
You shouldn’t really get any stains after a couple of washes of the jeans. If you’re afraid of them, just wash the jeans.
Also, it’s surely a problem with tucking anything into the jeans? Not a problem of wearing a jacket with them?
Hi Simon, yes the problem is when I tuck my shirt into my jeans. Since I’ve avoided doing that, I haven’t really tried the jeans, shirt, and jacket outfit. Sorry, I realized I accidentally inserted the word “jacket” when I said “I dont want to risk my shirts or my jackets having denim stains” in my original comment. It was just my shirt which I was worried about.
Thank you for your response. I look forward to putting together a jeans, shirt, and jacket outfit!
No worries. It isn’t something that should happen for long with new denim
I have worn shirts tucked into dark indigo jeans many times with no dye transfer. I’m not sure if that would be the case if I got drenched by rain, though.
Hi simon, wouldn’t a jacket like the games blazer by drake’s (https://www.drakes.com/navy-cotton-ripstop-games-blazer-mk-ii) be better be jeans? They seem to be casual enough for a lot of casual bottoms (jeans, wide chinos) but also smart enough for dress chinos. Can also be machine washed. Seems like a good versatile choice for a more dress downed WFH world
They are good, yes, and a nice more casual, more workwear look in washed cotton.
For me, not better just different
Hi simon, on the topic of jackets I’ve been toying with the idea of getting my first double breasted sports coat to wear in slightly colder countries during overseas trips (after COVID19). I intend to wear them casual, with chinos (smart to army wide ones) and denim. There are 3 i’m considering:
1) An unstructured one in navy like this, worn with a turtleneck perhaps (https://www.drakes.com/clothing/blazers/navy-irish-linen-games-blazer-mk-iii)
2) A traditional soft shouldered one but in olive (https://shop.ringjacket.com/products/olive-balloon-db-blazer)
3) A straight up traditional one in navy (https://shop.ringjacket.com/products/navy-balloon-db-club-blazer)
For a novice and someone who has never owned a DB, are there recommendations as to one which I should get?
I haven’t seen 2 or 3 in person, but I’d worry they both look a little smart – slightly crisp fabrics. But 1 is also much more casual, more like workwear almost
I have a bespoke blue blaser made from H+S mesh, with the lightest of canvasses and very soft shoulders. When I wear it with a white OCBD, distressed faded blue jeans and snuff loafers, I get more compliments, often from total strangers, than I do when wearing any other combinations from my bespoke wardrobe.
I️ have a navy blazer that I’ve been thinking of making more casual by changing the brass buttons to brown horn, but am a bit stuck on choosing the right ones. Can you offer any guidelines of photos of the buttons you have on this jacket? Thanks.
I would nearly always use a mid to dark brown, with a little variation in the colour.
Shades 04, 14 or 17 from Bernstein & Banleys – here
Interesting post, Simon. I’m not sure the outfit pictured here quite works for me, though. I can’t put my finger on it, but I think the jacket is reading like a flannel for me, at least in the zoomed out shots, and I don’t think of that as a usual choice for odd jackets.
The suede Dovers do look great with this kind of outfit.
You’re right, flannel wouldn’t work. There’s more texture and pattern than that, though maybe that doesn’t come across clearly
This may well be a situation where the pictures don’t quite convey the impression that one would get in person. I think it’s tough to fully capture texture and pattern with a dark fabric like this.
The cut of the jacket is very nice. It’s a good example of a soft, casual look that still retains the elegance of a tailored silhouette.
Ha! Had a db jacket made from the same cloth by W&S. Absolutely love the weight of it, it feels so reassuring and can essentially substitute a coat or act as a great layer under a lighter waterproof. Of course I agree it is not the most versatile piece. Anglo-Italian have a navy linen herringbone in 16 oz which looks nice. That being said do you think the weight would make it less wearable in the summer though?
I’m not sure – perhaps OK in an English summer, but not somewhere more tropical. Hard to know though, having not worn it
Hello Simon a big fan of yours here, will just like to know who the jeans maker is? hard to find your kind of jeans out there nowadays.
They were made to measure by Levi’s – an offering called Lot No.1. I’ve covered that service regularly over the past few years, if you have a quick search
In the pictures on the site you seem to wear your Solito jackets unbuttoned most of the time. Is there a reason for that (e.g., the waist is cut slim), or is that just a coincidence?
Just a coincidence. I would be more likely, in general, to wear more casual jackets undone like this, though even then I’d wear them done up more of the time.
Also, if you were conscious that you wanted the jacket to look more casual, unbuttoning would help. Though if you do that all the time, there’s much less point having a handmade structure or great fit
I think you meant “20/21oz” rather than “20/21g”.
A question: if this jacket was completely unstructured, would it make any difference on the feel and drape, given how heavy the fabric is?
Great article as always.
D’oh! Thanks, I’ll correct that now.
Yes, it would still make a considerable difference if it was completely unstructured. Overcoats too, feel very different without any internal structure, and of course they’re heavier still
Hey Simon – there are also some lovely navy blue harris tweeds out there. Any reason you didn’t pick something like that?
The aim was to look at things that weren’t as hairy as Harris Tweed, as mentioned. People generally don’t have a problem finding tweeds and understanding how casual they are. And that cashmere or similar is smart. It’s the area in between that’s more difficult
I have had three jackets made up from the W. Bill Shetland bunch, including one that was called Vintage Shetland, and the cloth is fantastic, with beautiful patterns, colors, and textures. It has gotten to the point where I have to tell myself to get something from another book. One of your readers asked about a navy moleskin jacket and you expressed a preference for other cloths. Fair enough. I would mention that I got an olive moleskin jacket made, with dark brown horn buttons, hacking pockets, and a sort of autumn red lining, and I love it.
Even though this is a lighter italian construction, would you go fully lined with a jacket this heavy (and/or one slightly hairy that may catch on shirts more)? Thanks.
Yes I would usually. The lining makes little difference to heat given the weight of the cloth, and it’s hairier as you say, so more likely to catch
It’s a nice jacket, but IMO it does not work well to the jeans; too dark, too similar in color. Would need mid or light blue jeans. The brown jacket/dark denim combo in the other post is so much better.
Thanks. Yes slightly lighter jeans would make that easier. Also much easier to combine with a brown jacket. Building on that capsule post, we wanted a navy jacket so it was still something smart that could be worn with flannels etc as well. Doing this with navy is always trickier
I really like the sport coat/denim/suede combo in theory, but I rarely end up wearing it, because I find the shirt (or more precisely, the area where the shirt meets the pants) to be problematic. When worn with a pair of woolen pants or chinos, you probably wouldn’t wear a belt, but on denim that isn’t really an option, and the combination of a sport coat with a belted (and often low-waisted) pair of jeans can easily end up looking sloppy. I’m not trying to be mean here, and I realize you were going for a casual-yet-elegant vibe, but while the coat and shoes in these pictures look great, the denim pants pose, in my opinion, an unnecessary weak point in an otherwise lovely outfit.
Thanks Andreas. I’d suggest that not wearing a belt with jeans is definitely an option – it was very common to do so in the past, is still quite common today, and I think looks more relaxed too. Look at womenswear as well, for how good jeans are rarely worn with belts. Without being a female look.
Obviously helps if the jeans aren’t low-rise either
I’d agree on the Moon recommendation – I had a jacket made up in the Dark Brown Mix Lambswool Twill (https://www.moons.co.uk/product/dark-brown-mix/) that turned out beautifully and wears well with jeans, and is less hairy/spongy than other tweeds.
For other “woolens with texture” I think the range of solid twills in Fox’s Somerset Jacketing bunch look great. I’m getting a jacket made up in the Dark Olive Twill but they also carry a navy (on the brighter side, not quite true navy): https://themerchantfox.co.uk/products/navy-twill-jacketing
For a summer alternative with jeans, I would heartily recommend Anglo-Italian’s tennis blazer in navy blue linen. It’s louche styling is perfect for wearing with a polo or Tee .
In winter I resurrect an old navy Zegna MTM which I had made 15 years ago in a 98%/2% cashmere/silk mix with a herringbone pattern. I’ve had the buttons changed to a brown horn. It is a superb cloth and has really stood the test of time. I think the silk makes all the difference and gives the cashmere more texture and makes it more durable. I don’t know if you’ve experienced this mix Simon ?
Certainly this look is a must for any thinking flaneurs wardrobe.
Thanks Jason, no I haven’t tried that mix
Do you ever wear your St. Crispins Brown Suede Chukka boots with jeans and a jacket? Or is the last too elegant?
Alternatively, do you think a shanklin in dark brown would work, being more rounded and causal?
As always, asking for a friend…
That’s very kind of you Miles, got to help out your friends.
Yes I do wear them with a jacket, I don’t find it too smart. And I find a shanklin works too. An Alden chukka is a little further down the casual spectrum, and usually doesn’t work with tailoring
Hi Simon, would a double breasted jacket made in the navy Moonbeam you suggested work equally well with jeans compared to single breasted? Thanks.
No, I’d avoid a double breasted if you want something that works easily
In my opinion talking about fabrics gets much harder when we get into mixes. Style of a single type of fabric can be fairly consistant. But mixes can go in weird directions. I think you once mentioned that wool/silk/linens can look very different, regardless of how much percent of silk or linen is in there. It can get weird. I found a grey 50/50 herringbone silk/cashmere in a casual cut. I wouldn’t mind if it had a bit less shine, but it seems to work with denim well enough.
Yes, there’s so many other factors – yarn, weave, finish etc. Always good to get straight recommdations or go on something you’ve seen
Teba jackets, a cross between a cardigan and shooting jacket, are ideal with jeans in town. They are very comfortable and can look smart with flannel trousers and loafers. Olive is a flexible alternative to navy.
Oliver Brown has several RTW Tebas (in wool, tweeds and linen) at around £400 to £450. J Girdwood offers MTO from Justo Gimeno in Zaragoza that can be ordered from the PS pop-up shops. They are also available more cheaply in Spanish menswear stores. I picked up a couple of bargains in Andalucia last year.
It’s a bit surprising that no one else has mentioned this comfortable and great value alternative.
had to look twice in the last pic to be sure it’s not a selfie of the top of your skull 😉
Such a wonderful jacket. In your opinion, would this fabric still work with jeans if done in the fairly wide shouldered Prolouge cut?
Yes I think so.
Thank you Simon. Loved the swatches. Prior to reading this, I would have gone for my pea coat with jeans, given the weather. However, your jacket steps things up quite nicely from that- looks like I need to spend some money on a new jacket.
I am interested in having a jacket made up like this.
Do you think the The Armoury’s Model 3 would work for this kind of look, provided it is made up in the right cloth ? Or would the shape (particularly thinking of the extended shoulders) not go well with more casual trousers or jeans ?
I think it should be nice, yes. I don’t own the Model 3 but I’ve tried it, and it should be casual enough
This outfit definitely works well (I can’t fathom the thought process of anyone who says otherwise, to be honest). It’s a pity you didn’t include at least one picture with the jacket buttoned.
I have a very similar jacket by Orazio Luciano which, although cashmere, doesn’t look or feel particularly like cashmere and works well in this kind of outfit.
Hi Simon. Would the Dark Navy Moonbeam be a good choice for a somewhat smart navy blazer? One that would go well with grey flannel trousers and grenadine ties?
Yes, I think so.
Would the Moon lambswool twill be a better choice to pair with grey flannel trousers?
I like how in this article you are looking at this in-between area, between smart (cashmere) and casual (tweed).
I am going for my first navy blazer which I don’t want to be too casual, which is why I like the darker navy color. But I was never sure about what type of fabric or pattern to get. So thanks for this article as it is giving me some great options to think about.
Oh good. That’s nice to hear. I do think this is the sweet spot in menswear at the moment – showing people how to meld these two together.
The Moon would be just as good as the Moonbeam with flannels. The difference would be that the Moon would go better with more casual trousers (eg jeans) and the Moonbeam better with more formal ones (eg wool gabardine)
Hi Simon. I hope all is well. When pairing this dark navy Moonbeam jacket with grey flannel trousers, what type of shirt goes with it? Can I wear a white poplin shirt that I normally use with business suits? Or is an OCBD more appropriate?
A huge range of shirts is fine with a combination like that. A white poplin would be at the smartest end of the spectrum, and a western or flannel shirt at the most casual end. An OCBD would be safest, but they could all work.
If you’re wearing a white poplin, I’d make the whole a little smarter with slightly more formal shoes, and perhaps a sharp white handkerchief
I much prefer a brown tweed with jeans. I have a green and tan glen plaid jacket in shetland wool that is very country and works perfectly with jeans. I will wear a blue linen or cotton jacket with off white jeans. Blue jacket with blue jeans is a look you see all over in the states, it looks like an insurance salesman trying to be cool
A very interesting and informative article. I have liked wearing jackets with jeans for some time, especially since my retirement, as many of my interactions are less formal. For me this is most useful when slightly upgrading a more casual look. For a number of reasons this look has historically had a bad press and this article has given it a respectability by (as with many things) thinking it through especially in getting the material and jacket style right. I have a navy jersey herringbone jacket and gun check Harris Tweed from Drake’s both of which I think work well with jeans, as does a Fox Flannel check, all of which are soft shouldered, with patch pockets and unstructured. Drakes are a good place in my opinion to pick up RTW jackets for this look as you will see from the ideas they put together on their website. On the subject of T Shirts, it’s really personal choice and what you feel looks right for your own style. I just find they feel a little bulky, so when I occasionally wear one I go for one with a slight stretch. One final point is that I feel jackets with jeans really come into their own when worn with a roll neck sweater. This is very versatile as you can go from merino in the fall, through cashmere in the winter and even on occasion a slightly more chunky wool with Harris Tweed in place of an overcoat (but only in an English type milder winter).
Simon would you be able to do something on your thoughts for roll next sweaters with jackets at some point please.
Thanks again for another article that adds to our knowledge..
Thanks Stephen, and sure, happy to.
Anything in particular you wanted answered about roll necks with jackets? Colours and weights mostly?
So Simon, all in all, how did Solito do? I’m a big fan and will use them again, you must be too to use them again?
Good – not the best for fit I’ve used and not the best finishing either, but still pretty good value for money.
I have a neapolitan sport coat made by Saman Amel in navy Loro Piana Cashmere Wish (Super 100 + some cashmere). It has brown buttons and patch pockets. I have usually just used it with flannels and cavalry twill. Do you think it would also work with indigo denim? (If there is some contrast in the colors).
My instinct would be that it would probably be too smart, being cashmere. But hard to say for sure without seeing it in person
Do you think the Ring Jacket 184FOL Navy Wool Twill Sport Coat (NOS), which you recommended om Drop93 will have enough texture to work with jeans? Hard to tell from the pictures.
I’m not sure, having not seen it in person, but I suspect it might be a little smart. If you wouldn’t to wear it with smarter trousers too, I wouldn’t go for it
I have a Drake’s jacket in navy herringbone jersey which does the trick too.
Hi Simon, for roll necks with jackets, yes mainly weight and colour of roll neck, as part of overall styling with types of jackets and jeans/trousers. Essentially similar to recent article and others where you cover the type of cloth and style that works when wearing a roll neck. Thanks again.
Ok, will do Stephen
I’ve considered making a jacket from overcoat cloth a bunch of times, as they’re usually very nice, but what’s held me back is worry it would be very warm. Obviously it’s for fall and winter, but have you found it too warm to wear as much as other jackets?
No to be honest, I haven’t. I wouldn’t say it’s noticeably warmer than, for example, a 15/16oz tweed
This a great, classic ensemble. And what jeans are you wearing? I did not see the brand mentioned in the article. Also, are you not wearing a pocket square to keep it casual?
Yes, I wouldn’t wear a pocket square with something this casual. Also, I wear them less in general these days (see article here)
The jeans have been covered a few times over the years – they are my made to measure ones from Levi’s.
The latest post on them was here.
Simon, what do you think of comparing a good rtm sport coat (e.g. Ring Jacket) against a mid-tier mtm one? I’m thinking which route should I go for??
It depends on your priorities – if they’re the same price, I’d imagine you’ll get better quality with the RTW, better fit with the MTM
That’s a very interesting comment about getting better quality with RTW as compared to MTM at the same price. Can i ask you to elaborate why you expect the quality would be better in the MTM case please?
I’m sorry, I’m not sure I understand the question.
I said that – all other things being equal – you might expect RTW to be greater quality. But they you ask why MTM is greater quality?
Sorry, typo, meant why would you expect RTW to have better quality. One would have thought MTM would be better in terms of both quality and fit?
Having said that, this (wrong?) expectation by me is probably what left me a bit confused with MTM, when i saw that it fit better, but the RTW had nicer trappings
Made to measure can be very cheap. You can get it for a a couple of hundred dollars – made in Asia often, by a company with no physical store.
RTW can be very expensive – Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren Purple Label etc.
Of course. On your comment above you spoke of RTW and MTM of the same price; am referring to that scenario. Why in that case woud you expect the quality of RTW to be better than MTM?
That extreme was just intended to point out that MTM is no guarantee of good quality, as suggested.
If two pieces were the same price, and all other things equal (location of production, type of company etc) you would assume the RTW would he higher quality, because the MTM is more expensive to make – you need to make just one piece, rather than a large volume, which makes it per-item more expensive.
I’ve had a few Navy jackets over the years. Inevitably they all ended up being worn with jeans at some point. Undoubtedly my favourite was a nice mid-weight hopsack. It also had natural brown buttons.
Thanks for another informative post. You often note (as here) that for a jacket to work with jeans, it ought to be soft shouldered, unstructured, etc.
However, two quick questions on this:
(1) To what extent do you consider the determining factor in this to be cloth vs cut/style of the jacket?
(2) Without necessarily comparing extremes in style, would you be able to demonstrate why a more structured jacket wouldn’t work with jeans (even if in the right cloth), e.g., by comparing above the outfit to a similar one but with, say, a Steven Hitchcock / A&S / other jacket?
1) They’re both important, and both necessary. I don’t think there’s much point weighing up which is more important, as you need both
2) Sure, I can try and do that at some point
One correction here for anyone wondering: I believe the W. Bill Shetland Bunch is WB12123!
The WB 12124 also looks lovely, but is mid grey with blue in it.
No Miles, I meant 12124. Have you seen the bunch in person or are you going off the website photo? The latter is not very accurate
Going off the w.bill website photos. My mistake and thanks.
The Neapolitan tailors tend to do a notch that is higher on the coat, don’t they? I am 6 4’ and don’t really think I need to appear taller. I dislike how the notch on my jackets sits as essentially most people look at me from below and the notch appears very very high. It might be useful if you comment how we should estimate the position of the notch as I can only judge it once the jacket has been made up and have worn it a couple of times and have had pictures taken.
Good point Michael. The younger Neapolitans do tend to have them high, yes, and I can see why you wouldn’t want that. You should ask for them lower when you have something made.
However, it’s hard to specify how low as it depends a lot on the other proportions of the jacket. I think it’s safer to just ask the tailor to have it lower and see what they suggest. Or to buy from a tailor where you have seen a notch height you like.
Really helpful article. I think it’s definitely channeling the zeitgeist of where a lot of us are, both in terms of the smart-casual element in modern times, but also because a versatile navy jacket could be one of the pieces at the forefront of the ‘buy less, but buy better’ mentality that I’m hoping is prevailing more and more.
I looked at several of the cloths you’ve mentioned here and think I’m going to go for a Navy Moonbeam jacket. I’m just struggling to pick between the Herringbone featured in the article (35015), and the twill in the same shade (35020). I figure there’s very little in it since the herringbone is very subtle, but I wondered if you had any insight or wisdom before I end up tossing a coin to decide!
If there’s nothing else in it, I’d go for the herringbone. I think it’s marginally more versatile, less smart. But if there’s any colour difference, that would take priority.
Hi Simon – what would you think of these options for someone living in a mild/temperate climate?
1. Fox Midnight Serge – 18/19 oz – maybe a bit heavy but has some interesting surface texture and a noticeable twill weave. The matte finish is particularly appealing.(https://themerchantfox.co.uk/products/fox-midnight-serge-jacketing)
2. Dugdale Cascade Silk/Linen Barleycorn – 9.1 oz – some nice texture, almost has a knit appearance, not sure about any sheen it might have. (https://shop.dugdalebros.com/cascade/product/7634-navy-blue-plain/colour/navy_blue_plain/page/123/)
1. Heavy, yes, and probably only wearable for half the year as a jacket. Also not the best material for a jacket, in my view. I know it’s sold as a jacketing, but it’s fairly smooth and dense – I think it would be better for a suit or trousers.
2. I haven’t seen this in person, but it looks nice. I’d want to see a physical swatch and make sure it had enough texture, but it looks like it would.
Simon, I have an appointment with a tailor next week as I am looking to commission a navy sport coat. Something that will not look out of place with pale or mid grey fox flannels, cotton chinos or even indigo jeans.
It would be a spring and autumn piece.
While he has various samples, he is open to ordering cloth if I have a particular request.
Do you think Harrison’s Moonbeam dark navy herringbone, 35015 would be appropriate? Can you point me to other cloth to research?
I’m not sure you’ve read the article above? I recommend that cloth there, and there are others I suggest too.
Were you concerned about some particular aspect of 35015?
Thank you for this important article! It made me think about my own wardrobe a lot in the last weeks.
About flannel for jackets: I wear my navy flannel jacket (soft shoulder, three patch pockets etc.) with jeans, chinos and also with grey flannels. It never accured to me that this could be odd.
Simon, you would consider all three combinations a miss-match, am I wright? If I got it right, this is mainly because of the lack of texture and that a flannel jacket will somehow always look like a part of a suit and too formal for seperate wear?
Thanks for the clarification!
Yes, exactly Alexander. Obviously your style points help, but I’d still say it’s not ideal. Better with flannels, but still not the best material for a jacket.
If the flannel for the jacket was swapped for say serge/twill or even Harrisons Moonbeam, ceteris paribus, could that be paired with grey flannel as well as jeans?
Serge or similar twills aren’t great for jackets either. Too dense.
Moonbeam is a great jacketing, but a little luxurious for wear with jeans.
Look at something like Moon lambswool or lightweight shetland maybe
Interested in how you’d compare these borderline cloths that can be just about worn with jeans in other cuts- do you think they’d work in a more trad neapolitan cut, or a British drape?
In a trad Neapolitan cut, yes; in British drape, no.
Hi Simon, i have a question regarding the premise that a navy jacket is the most important first jacket to have when building a wardrobe: would a patterned dark brown not be even more versatile? Such as your herringbone jacket here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/09/jacket-and-jeans-vintage-cashmere-from-eduardo-de-simone.html
Dark brown goes with grey flannels, jeans and chinos in cream or olive, without the work-around discussed here in terms of matching with jeans. The caveat would be that a dark brown is more casual than navy. However, many of us no longer require the formality of dressing once required, and wearing a jacket at all is a step up in formality, above the majority. Also, it seems a versatile navy jacket is, by its very nature, not the most exciting, in terms of pattern or texture.
This cloth from AI seems to fit the bill, as an easy to find example:
My question then: if the drop in formality that a patterned dark brown brings is not an issue, is it not even more versatile than navy?
Interested to know your thoughts, and many thanks.
Yes, if a dark brown suits the formality level that you’re at most of the time, then it would probably be more versatile
Would the Moon lambswool twill PL375 10/13 be a good cloth for unstructured jackets, like your former post?
I’m deciding whether to go for an odd jacket or unstructured jacket in navy since my environment is super casual…any tips for preference?
I think either would be fine, as long as the odd jacket was made by a tailor that had a soft style, like a Neapolitan.
And I think that lambswool would probably be better in a jacket like that, rather than a completely unstructured one.
Why do you think the Moon PL375 10/13 lambswool be better in an odd jacket as opposed to a casual unstructured jacket one?
Is it because the cloth looks more suited for odd jacketing? Or because it’s kind of tweedy and would feel uncomfortable in an unstructured, mostly unlined jacket? Out of curiosity… thank you!
It’s just that I would think it was a little loose and soft, so wouldn’t have much shape if in something entirely unstructured
When will the neutral square scarf be back Simon? Thanks
No current plans I’m afraid
Just received samples from Moon, and you are right, that navy is great, planing to have soft jacket with patch pockets, can you please advise me, should I go patch with breast pocket as well, or is it to much? Thanks for your work and your advice.
Probably too much – more guidance here
Regardless of whether you would wear it, is it possible to pull off a navy jacket in an english cut (like Steven Hitchcock) with jeans? So I am interested if you just don’t like english jackets with casual trousers or if it is a general faux pas to combine them.
I don’t think it’s possible, no, unless you’re going for deliberate contrast in your style – akin to a tux with jeans, parka with a suit and so on.
Could five-pocket pants (ie trousers cut like jeans from fabrics like corduroy, moleskin, or a chino twill) be matched with a jacket made from a less casual fabric than one would wear with denim jeans?
Yes, that would make a small difference. It would place them, perhaps, halfway between a tailored pair of cords and jeans
Simon (and anyone else), what are your thoughts on a navy sports coat in corduroy? I feel like it would be a nice mix of the formality of navy and the casualness of corduroy, especially in a well-tailored jacket… But I also feel like corduroy works better as trousers. I’m afraid it will be a waste of money, and something like the Moonbeam would be a better bet.
I think your second instinct is right – navy can look nice as a suit sometimes, but it’s not as versatile as navy in something else. Go for a wool instead. Go for a dark olive or perhaps a warm grey (see my examples at those links) if you do want cord
Thanks, Simon. I think I will go with the Moonbeam… I’ve been wanting to make something up from that bunch for a while, and while it’s tempting to do something a bit loud (the green with blue windowpane, 35002) or the gun club check (35042), I’ll probably go with the navy herringbone (35015).
Speaking of olive jackets, I’m in the process of having your olive escorial fabric made up as a jacket now (along with the oatmeal.) My tailor is a fan of it, and it’s coming along great. They’re a bit sharper and more urban than brown sports coats, which is what I was hoping for.
Nice, that’s lovely to hear Tim
What are your thoughts on pairing Fox Brothers’ Somerset jacketing cloths with denim/jeans, specifically, in light of this post, either the navy twill (FJ350-B2692/45) or navy herringbone (FJ350-B2693/54)? My concern is whether either would still be casual enough to pair with denim and have sufficient textural contrast to work. Of course, whether either works could also depend entirely on the style and cut of the jacket.
For some reason, the Moon & Sons website won’t allow me to register an account outside the UK, which prohibits me from ordering from them. (No idea why this is.) So I’m looking for options on sites that will actually allow me to order their cloth as a customer not in the trade. Anglo-Italian has a couple options as well, including their half wool, half cotton navy twill (AIT – 069), but again, in terms of your recommendations, I’m not sure if this is fuzzy or hairy enough to add sufficient textural contrast to work with denim.
It’s a while since I’ve seen those cloths in person, and I haven’t seen either made up, but I’d be a little wary of the smoothness of them, and the lighter blue in the weave. They will look a little lighter than a navy, and might be a little smarter than you want either – certainly more than most of the cloths we’ve suggested above.
With buying cloth, remember that most mills and merchants and still not set up to deal directly with customers – it’s very much the exception. So it may be that Moon only deals through agents or other merchants abroad, for instance. Can you not ask your tailor to order the cloth though?
The Anglo-Italian one is much darker than the Fox, almost a midnight navy that looks like black, and the cotton will give it a rather different feel – more matte, perhaps more casual. Worth seeing in person if you haven’t.
I don’t want to speak for the tailor necessarily, but he has a small shop abroad and likely also doesn’t have an account with Moon. His cloth selection is small and seemed more geared toward conservative worsteds, which is likely what most of his clients are after. For him, I’m almost certainly the outlier in trying to find a suitable navy jacketing material that would also work with denim.
Partially out of frustration at (so far) being unable to purchase one of your recommended cloths for a navy jacket, I went ahead and ordered the PS Escorial tweed in green. Not only had I been toying with the idea of this cloth for a while–despite its price–but I can actually buy a length of it online.
Of course, this still leaves me searching for a versatile navy jacketing cloth. Thanks for your thoughts on the Anglo-Italian option. On that front, I was also considering their winter hopsack (AIT – 001) and this navy-black twill (AIT – 034). I realize that hopsack is a plain weave cloth, and so may not have the desired visual interest that a twill would, but thought it could work with denim if it’s as “fuzzy and soft” as it’s described. I feel like the latter navy-black twill option would work with denim, but at 490 gms, it seems heavier than I’d like my jacket cloth to be. Alas, I’m not in London, so I can’t visit Anglo-Italian to see these cloths in person, but I’d appreciate any follow-up thoughts on my thinking. Thanks!
I can’t remember exactly what those ones are like in person, but I would worry that hopsack would be a little smart for denim – I’ve never seen one that isn’t. And equally I would worry a black/navy would be a little smart for what you’re after too, but worth asking for them to send you a swatch perhaps.
Dear Simon! I was always hesitant to wear a DB jacket, as much as I adore the style (also because of the good reasoning you provide on this site towards the DB style). As a suit it feels much too serious for my age and environment. My idea was to wear it as casual as possible. So I thought I’d skip the suit and start with an odd jacket. The idea of a DB odd jacket is not least pushed by seeing again your amazing cotton DB jacket from Caraceni. Ideally I’d want to have a navy DB sport jacket, that goes with high twist trousers, but also with jeans. And I know this is all quite difficult (DB, formal colour etc.). For jeans in the summer you recommended the very heavy linen herringbone (and darker) AIT-064https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-064 . This looks amazing, but could be too warm in high summer in a city in Central Europe.
Hopsack could be easier in summer. Regarding a hopsack to wear with jeans (I know again: very difficult), how about this heavy linen hopsack: https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-055 ? It is the blue version of the green one that was seen on a picture in this article regarding summer jacket cloths: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/07/the-guide-to-summer-jacket-cloths.html
I would hope the linen hopsack could also work with jeans. Because it is lighter in colour than the darker herrringbone, and the texture seems to be pronounced, from what I can see. (The whole idea with jeans is just trying to make the DB casual/young enough.)
Difficult topic, I know. Thanks a lot for your thoughts!
I think this sounds nice, but I’d definitely go with the heavier linen, the hopsack could be too sharp
Thank you! You mean nice regarding the idea of making a DB wearable for me like that? You might guess it is really hard for people outside of the menswear business to wear a DB nowadays.
Yes I can definitely see that, and that is what I meant
The Dovers are lovely. But do you think that you miss out a little having Dovers in suede – you seem to miss out on that wonderful stitching you get with the leather equivalents. But maybe they are less versatile?
Yes, that’s true, there is something nice about the colour around the stitching.
Leather is less versatile probably, yes, but also just smarter – and so less able to stretch to more casual clothes like these
Is a jacket made of moonbeams (or other fabrics you recommended above) wearable in the English summer (e.g. in the evening) or does it look too “warm” to be worn in summer (like tweed)?
It doesn’t look too warm I don’t think, no
Up to what temperature can you wear fabrics like Moonbeam or the two recommended from Loro Piana?
Hopefully an appropriate thread to ask this – do you believe that the G&G Wallis is as versatile as the Edward Green Banbury? Is it casual enough for most situations with jeans?
I was thinking of this model in mole suede (a dark brown suede) but was curious about your thoughts. https://www.gazianogirling.com/products/wallis-in-polo-suede-r18/
I haven’t tried the Wallis I’m afraid. It looks a tiny bit longer/slimmer than the Banbury, but that’s only going off pictures
Given that slimness do you think it still works as well with jeans and very casual outfits? Basically you think it works in the same situations?
I can’t really say Alexander, having not tried it.
Alexander, I have both the EG Banbury and the GG Wallis. There is a very small difference in last shape, as Simon correctly deduced from the pictures, but they are functionally equivalent in my view.
Would you say this PW WFA blazer would fit the bill, and do you think it could also be dressed up a bit, even if not with flannels and a tie?
Not really, to be honest. That’s a completely unstructured jacket, and its high three-button look is more workwear than tailoring.
What do you think of this Loro Piana fabric ? (https://ibb.co/02ZZM0t)
Too big herringbone ? It’s hard to find the good one because it’s my first jacket.
It’s hard to say remotely, but I think that looks very nice actually. Not too big a herringbone, no
Last question, do you think dark navy herringbone jacket is great to go to theater like Opera Garnier ? I hesitate with something like your Steven Hitchcock Blazer, but it’s less versatile I guess.
Going to theater without looking too formal, it’s not easy to find out, especially when we are still young.
Maybe dark blue navy herringbone can look smart with a beige chino or a grey flannel from Berg & Berg ? (All my trousers are from them thanks to you !)
I’m afraid I haven’t been to the Opera Garnier and don’t know what the dress code is like – or more realistically, the general level of dress
Simon thank you for your guidance, I have gone for the Abraham Moon cloth in a 3 roll 2, slanted pockets and a soft shoulder pad.
Would your advice be to keep the lining to a deep blue too, and its hard to tell from the photos but it looks as though you have gone for dark brown buttons. 4 on the cuff?
Can I suggest you have a look at the Suit Style Guide max, in the menu? That has great guidance on all these questions
Hi Simon! Any chance you’re familiar with the Bateman lambswool twill bunch? They have a dark navy (4232) that I’ve been considering for a jacket. Just wondering if it would be too smart to wear with jeans. Appreciate any thoughts you have. Thanks!
Sorry Paul, no I’m not
Sorry for commenting on an older post but curious on camel hair. You have any articles or could you tell me your opinion on it? The Brycelands guys love their camel jackets and they look so good. Great texture and not to much shine. Loved the swatch you linked, you really think it be a good versatile jacket?
I think it can be really nice, yes. It does still have a bit of shine though – it’s still more similar to cashmere than it is to tweed, for example.
I’d go for it if you want something that looks like a cashmere, just as rich, but with a touch less shine.
Hi, Simon. Lovely jacket.
Woulf you mind sharing some measurements of the jacket?
I.e. length of shoulder seam, pit to pit, half waist and back length?
I can do better than that – it’s pretty much the same as my other Solito, which you can see picked apart here
Hi and thanks. I thought the cut was a little different from that jacket, but thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Still, if you have any photos of yourself posing in the navy Solito jacket like you do in your Style breakdown-posts, I would greatly appreciate if you could post them. I see you have many photos of it while moving, but it would be great to see it in a more posed manner.
I’m afraid I don’t, sorry
Hi Simon, I am planning to commission a db navy jacket from Ciardi when they start travelling to London again and would like to ask for you advice on cloth. To put this in context I already have a navy hopsack summer jacket and a db in the same fox bros overcoating cloth you show here. So, what I’m looking for is probably something in-between those two, perhaps more akin to a traditional English blazer cloth. At the moment there are two cloths that have caught my eye.
Dugdale advertise this as a blazer cloth: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/8729-navy-plain-blazer-cloth/colour/navy_plain_blazer_cloth/
and fox have this interning heavy hopsack: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/products/navy-blue-hopsack?_pos=2&_sid=bfc451c3e&_ss=r
Would appreciate your thoughts! Thank you.
I’m afraid I haven’t seen either of those materials in person, so it’s hard to give much advice. But do you really need another navy jacket if you already have those two? What are you looking for that the others don’t provide?
I get a lot of wear from the fox bros one, but I use that mainly as a coat with roll necks in the winter, it wouldn’t be something I would risk wearing out for dinner or to the theatre for example. The hopsack is fine, but there are some fit issues and given it’s weight I don’t think it goes well with flannels, for example. So what I am essentially looking for is standard blazer that I would be able to wear for most of the year (apart from the height of summer).Thank you!
OK, understood Nick, thanks.
I think in that case what you’re looking for is a mid-weight wool or wool/cashmere. Something still with a wool texture (so different from the existing hopsack) but nowhere near as heavy as the Fox one.
The Dugdale might be OK, but I haven’t seen it so hard to say. A wool/cashmere like my Caraceni here would be good, as would most wools with some texture around 10-12oz probably.
Thank you very much, Simon!
Would you say there is much differance between Lambswool and Shetland? I am weighing up the two and i would be interested to know your thoughts.
In general, yeah lambswool will be a little smoother and not as wiry. It will look more like what you’d expect from normal wool, if that makes sense, where Shetland will be hairier
Hello Simon, Thank you for your kind answer on my last question. Your blog is a really helpful to think about my wardrobe. I consider my first bespoke at the local house with those navy fabrics. I have one another question. I am sure you know, that Italian men love navy round neck knit. When I was at the Milan Duomo square, I just standed there for 5 minutes but I saw already dozens of men with the item. I also love navy knit so much, but then I have to give up to wear navy jacket with the blazer. What is the best jacket color and fabric with navy knit + pale jean or beige chino do you think? My second jacket will be that item.
Why can’t you wear a navy knit under a navy jacket? That can be a great look, with a blue or white shirt
You mean go navy tone and tone or literally in same tone: dark navy jacket – dark navy knit is okay?
The same tone, dark navy and dark navy, is a great look. Personally I don’t like similar tones of navy together, but that can look quite good as well.
Either way, it’s one of the advantages of navy that it’s so easy to wear with itself
Dear Simon! Have you seen this Anglo-Italian cloth in person?
Do you think this could work as the casual navy jacket?
Btw: How is your project with Ciardi and the A-I-cloth going?
I have, though it was a while ago. I do think it would be nice as a casual navy jacket, yes, though a little heavy. In the UK you’d probably only wear it half the year
Hi Simon. Do you think a soft tailored jacket with patch packets from fresco or Fox Air in a bold pattern could work with jeans and chinos trousers ? Thank you.
No I don’t, sorry. I find those materials are too sharp – they’re designed to be suits, not jackets. Look at the softer summer options in things like wool/silk/linen. More in this chapter of the guide to cloth
Simon , thank you for your reply. Coulda hopsack or a basketweave jacket work for my needs ? Thank you.
Yes, usually hopsack or mock leno are woven for jackets – the high-twist jacketing equivalent of a fresco etc for suiting
Dear Simon! Regarding the abraham moon-bunches: Am I right, that the shetland-twill navy would also work and probably even more easy with jeans than the smarter lambswool, because it is more hairy, tending more towards a real tweed. I have seen the shetland twill made up once in a jacket from Berg & Berg (in a shade of green). shetland twill navy: https://www.moons.co.uk/product/dark-navy/
Yes, it probably would
Hi Simon, I was wondering whether the Dovers you own are 202 or 606 lasts?
Also, would calf leather Dover work fine with jeans and chinos?
Calf is harder with jeans and chinos, but can be nice in paler colours like tan. Easier in suede
Hi Simon, love this post. Question about the shade of blue: if you go one shade lighter in the exact same Moon cloth, to Dark Blue PL375 2010-14 – how much more casual do you feel the jacket gets? With chinos or jeans? Link https://www.moons.co.uk/product/dark-blue/
I think that would be fine Michel, but I would like to see it in person to be sure. You just want to avoid that strong, French blue that you see in a lot of modern suits
Hi Simon, I would like to ask for your suggestions on navy fabrics.
I already own dark navy herringbone similar in colour and weight to Harrison’s, which I find very versatile as I could wear it in autumn, winter and even early spring casually and reasonably smartly.
Now I would like to commission one more navy jacket which could work like my current dark navy herringbone jacket but different fabric. I considered tweeds, but I feel like they may not be the best for autumn/spring and for smart occasions (e.g. with ties). However, please do correct me if I am assuming this wrong, as I don’t have any tweeds in my closet. Would you suggest me some options if possible?
Can I ask why you want another jacket which is so similar to the other? Is there something a little different you are trying to achieve?
That would help make a suggestion – for example a tweed would mean some casual variation, which is nice, but no not be so great with a lot of ties. But then, the jacket you have sounds like the perfect one for ties anyway?
Hi Simon, thanks for your response.
Since I wear this jacket so much, I thought it would be nice to have another similar type but in a different style in terms of patterns or textures.
I looked at fabric bunches for almost an hour yesterday but couldn’t make up my mind. I was thinking of maybe going for Italian (Loro Piana) or English (Fox) made navy glen check with a black overcheck, but as I have no experience wearing glen checks yet, I wasn’t sure of that either.
As you said, the options were either very similar to what I already have or in tweeds.
Would you suggest I get a different colour in this case? If so, what would you recommend? Or would you have any suggestions?
I’d say there’s no point having the same jacket, so you need to consider what you want that’s different- season, look, colour, style etc. Decide on that first.
In terms of other colours, have a look at the jackets section of the wardrobe building series
Thanks. I chose a dark brown herringbone rather than a similar navy. Hopefully, this would be versatile as navy.
Hi Simon, I was just wondering if you find the Dover versatile as loafers? If someone can’t wear the loafers for whatever reason (feet shape), would you say the Dover could replace them?
I wouldn’t say they are, no. I don’t find they’re as good with smarter tailored trousers for instance. It’s also a question of style. Great as the Dovers are, they’re a touch more clumpy than the loafer styles
Hi Simon. Could the Dovers work well with a flannel suit?
For example, a black or brown calfskin with leather soles.
Not the chunkier/more casual variations with London grain or Utah grain and Dainite soles.
Sure, that would work. It’s a different, slightly chunkier look still probably, but it certainly works
I see, so would you say there are no alternatives for the loafers?
There are alternatives, Jack, but almost by definition nothing is going to be exactly the same style? Other things are always going to be different in some way – formal, casual, or just style
Understood. Thanks, Simon
I wanted to ask a question about the buttons. Here there is a clean line of the lapels down to the second button. On my navy Solito, the line runs more to the top of the three buttons, which then causes some folding around the second button. Is this something that can be solved by pressing or is it a matter of fit?
Yes that is rolling lower. Usually it’s a result of where the edge of the canvas is inside the jacket – this creates what’s called the ‘break line’.
However on a Neapolitan jacket the lightness of the canvas means that you can alter this a little bit. Worth asking Solito perhaps, or a local presser
I am tempted by the Loro Piana „Sopra Visso“ Navy Herringbone Shetland. Have you seen it by any chance? If yes, is that a good choice to wear with denim? Anglo Italian were offering the cloth in a RTW jacket some time ago. It reminds me of the tweed used in the current PS navy donegal coat, insofar as it appears like dark navy, but it is actually mostly a Royal blue and black herringbone. I hope that’s a fair description of the donegal. Thanks!
I haven’t seen it I’m afraid, no.
Donegal cloth has the flecks in it – it doesn’t sound like this cloth does.
Yes, you are right. I just wanted to give you an idea of the colors used in the herringbone.
Hi Simon, between dark brown cordovan and black suede penny loafers, which would you choose to wear with the navy tweed jacket and mid-blue jeans?
Cordovan. I wouldn’t really wear black suede with mid-blue jeans
Would you mind to recommend me one navy fabric, which goes well with chino? I think Moonbeam and Moon are nice, but I’d like to get a thing for warmer climate. It would be nice if it does not wrinkle easily. I have one hopsack jacket, but I find it too smart to wear casual with chino and sneakers.
I don’t have any suggestions I’m afraid Corra, as summer casual fabrics are almost impossible to find – it’s not what the fabric industry is set up for.
I’d suggest looking at things like overshirts instead perhaps.
Hi Simon, I have a dark navy moonbeam jacket with which I am very happy and I was wondering whether you think an RAF blue tweed (W Bill shetland bunch has something along those lines) would be useful? I am basically looking for something that could be work appropriate but also could serve me in a non-work environment. I have always been skeptical of lighter shades of blue but since seeing someone wear a jacket like that I may be changing my mind…
I think that can work, but it won’t be the most versatile colour. If versatility is the priority, see the list of five jackets here
Hi Simon, how did you deal with the lack of contrast with the navy jacket until the jeans faded enough? It is taking longer than I thought…
I didn’t really, just washed them more! Wash them twice more and see what difference it makes