Which colour of linen do I want?
At this time of year, I’m often asked what linen suit, jacket or trouser a reader should get. Their eyes are turning to summer, and often an event that will involve summer tailoring. We’ve written about the appeal of linen in general be...
Which colour of linen do I want?
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I actually wear them fairly often - you can see a pair in this outfit for example They can look nice with a tailored jacket, but it's not easy because of the high contrast. They come into their own in the evening, when a...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
Over time, I am certainly dressing better - more tastefully, more expressively and more personally - but there are ups and downs. The trend might be upwards, but it’s still a scatter diagram. My history with tobacco-linen suits is a good exam...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
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It's a style decision and a personal thing, Martins. Tailors will disagree a lot about what's right. The break in won't make a big difference to that...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
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No, not really GA...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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I prefer it without a pattern myself, but I think that's because I prefer subtler styles wherever possible - I don't really wear many checked jackets for that reason for example. So it is personal too...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style brea...
**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style brea...
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Hello YJ, I certainly wouldn't put Everest or Pasinato in the same class as the others. Among the others, Nicoletta Caraceni is no longer working, but T&G is very good. I would put Poole's above Dege. Between Poole's and...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
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No I think they sound nice David, and looking at those trousers online they look like a great colour...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
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I wouldn't usually do it, but here it's much more about the colour and pattern than it is the material. It looks more like a casual chambray than a linen...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
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Look at the bunches from harrison's, W Bill...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I would say that the greater risk is the jacket appears a little showy or dressy with mother of pearl. It can be nice, but horn is usually better and you can have more flecks and contrast, or a slightly lighter shade, if...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket to work with jeans it need...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
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Thanks Simon, yes makes sense on propositions. I feel like I am having to update my entire wardrobe to ensure outfits work together with new more relaxed proportions, I never liked skinny fits but certainly felt a slim f...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style ...
This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style ...
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I don't think I'd go through them all again and measure to be honest, sorry. I don't own some anymore either! But in general that's correct, yes...
A guide to linen bunches
This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...
A guide to linen bunches
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Good morning, summer is almost here!! To my taste, Ariston Napoli makes the beautiest delave linen. Both, color and texture. And only 9 to 10 oz, very practical for warmer climates. They also drape fine....
Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat
For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over. Down to details. This is...
Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat
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I'd go for 80/20 I think. I also find that these days I prefer something more substantial and hard wearing, less luxe. I'm making a new navy overcoat for next year that will certainly be mostly wool, if not all....
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
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Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice things about having cl...
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
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Either double or single, perhaps with a rounded edge but doesn't have to be...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, and even Sa...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
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I don't know I'm afraid John...
English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure
During a recent conversation with Thomas Mahon of English Cut, I was interested to hear about the made-to-measure service that he is launching in India. The tailors he has hired and trained are among those that suffered from the tsunami in south Asia...
English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure
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I don't know I'm afraid Mark, sorry...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1
This is the first post in what will be a series on having a double-breasted suit made at Henry Poole, in Prince of Wales cloth, as in Edward VII, but with the Duke of Windsor’s addition, originally from the Seafield estate, with the exclusive H...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1
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There are certainly variants. It isn't suitable for most business environments, no, though yours may vary...
All sold out
I’ve just been told that the cloth pictured, a grey cashmere from W Bill, has sold out as a result of being featured on this blog. Popping down to Graham Browne I saw two jackets in it basted and ready for a fitting, and one gentleman that ...
All sold out
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Hi - I think it is back, yes. Worth checking. I can certainly recommend the fabric and it was intended as Spring/Summer. Cashmere can be for any season, depending on the weight. Cheers...
Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer
I got my cashmere blazer from Graham Browne this week, commissioned a couple of months ago following the plan more more soft, unlined jackets ( post here). The cloth is from W Bill, cashmere and in a rather chunky, open weave that makes it even softe...
Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer
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I checked out the Harrisons of Edinburgh website and checked the W. BILL Coatings bunch and while I didn't see one in cashmere, I did fine some very similar and beautiful patterns in Lambswool. Hope this helps. Many than...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...
The reputation of Smith & Co
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I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...
The history of W Bill
Dealing with representatives of one or two of the cloth manufacturers in England in the past few weeks, we got to chatting about the history of the various brands. Talking with guys at Graham Browne and Anderson & Sheppard furthered that inte...
The history of W Bill
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My grandmother { more properly Lena} didn't have a sister called Laura but her mother was also Selina Bill. Perhaps she was the sister?Here is my email [email protected]'d love to know any info about the Bill...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
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Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
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I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...
