The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

December 6th 2023

In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

Match in comments:
Yes, that's right, and lovely to hear!...

ClothDecember 6th 2023

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

Match in comments:
I don't think I'd worry on the coolness point, as it is so lightweight, but yes I think you'll find the trousers too flimsy to get long-term wear out of. Sorry, it otherwise sounded like a great plan!...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...

June 21st 2021

**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...

Match in comments:
The nicest is cream, grey always works, and green can be good too. Even black. I wouldn't wear a linen jacket in winter myself...

SuitsJune 21st 2021

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

March 3rd 2021

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Match in comments:
Good point Markus. I think a lot about DBs is how you wear them...

SuitsMarch 3rd 2021

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

December 16th 2020

Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Match in comments:
Depends on the trousers and shirt, but generally mid to dark brown or black...

JacketsDecember 16th 2020

The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...

September 28th 2020

How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...

The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...

Match in comments:
Good to know. Thanks for that. Lindsay...

Jackets - StyleSeptember 28th 2020

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

August 5th 2020

A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

Match in comments:
I would Ciardi, Pirozzi and Ettore de Cesare probably. The softness won't vary much, the thing to watch out for is just getting a very natural shoulder - no roping at all in the sleevehead...

StyleAugust 5th 2020

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...

September 26th 2018

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket to work with jeans it need...

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...

Match in comments:
The line of the lapel is straight, there is no belly on it (curving outwards). This is standard for Naples but not standard, for example, in London. It is a little wider than average, yes, though again that's standard in...

Denim - StyleSeptember 26th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...

Match in comments:
They're stated on most of the product articles: 6 foot tall, 39 inch chest, 33 inch waist, 12.5 stone...

JacketsJune 25th 2018

A guide to linen bunches

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches

Match in comments:
- Tailors can wash linen beforehand, and often do - It would be in water, not solvents - It wouldn't get rid of all of the starch however, just most of it - No, it wouldn't be anything like a delave Italian one, as that'...

ClothJune 15th 2018

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

January 26th 2015

For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over. Down to details. This is...

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

Match in comments:
I'd go for 80/20 I think. I also find that these days I prefer something more substantial and hard wearing, less luxe. I'm making a new navy overcoat for next year that will certainly be mostly wool, if not all....

CoatsJanuary 26th 2015

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

March 3rd 2014

Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

Match in comments:
Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...

ClothMarch 3rd 2014

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

November 4th 2013

[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice things about having cl...

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

Match in comments:
Either double or single, perhaps with a rounded edge but doesn't have to be...

November 4th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon!...

ClothApril 15th 2013

English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure

September 27th 2011

During a recent conversation with Thomas Mahon of English Cut, I was interested to hear about the made-to-measure service that he is launching in India. The tailors he has hired and trained are among those that suffered from the tsunami in south Asia...

English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure

Match in comments:
I don't know I'm afraid Mark, sorry...

September 27th 2011

Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1

March 11th 2011

This is the first post in what will be a series on having a double-breasted suit made at Henry Poole, in Prince of Wales cloth, as in Edward VII, but with the Duke of Windsor’s addition, originally from the Seafield estate, with the exclusive H...

Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1

Match in comments:
That might be right, I might have the number wrong Gary. I'm afraid I can't remember though from this long ago. If you want to be sure, maybe best to check with P&H?...

March 11th 2011

All sold out

October 1st 2010

I’ve just been told that the cloth pictured, a grey cashmere from W Bill, has sold out as a result of being featured on this blog. Popping down to Graham Browne I saw two jackets in it basted and ready for a fitting, and one gentleman that ...

All sold out

Match in comments:
Hi - I think it is back, yes. Worth checking. I can certainly recommend the fabric and it was intended as Spring/Summer. Cashmere can be for any season, depending on the weight. Cheers...

October 1st 2010

Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer

August 25th 2010

I got my cashmere blazer from Graham Browne this week, commissioned a couple of months ago following the plan more more soft, unlined jackets ( post here). The cloth is from W Bill, cashmere and in a rather chunky, open weave that makes it even softe...

Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer

Match in comments:
I checked out the Harrisons of Edinburgh website and checked the W. BILL Coatings bunch and while I didn't see one in cashmere, I did fine some very similar and beautiful patterns in Lambswool. Hope this helps. Many than...

August 25th 2010

The reputation of Smith & Co

July 26th 2010

Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...

The reputation of Smith & Co

Match in comments:
I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...

ClothJuly 26th 2010

The history of W Bill

July 21st 2010

Dealing with representatives of one or two of the cloth manufacturers in England in the past few weeks, we got to chatting about the history of the various brands. Talking with guys at Graham Browne and Anderson & Sheppard furthered that inte...

The history of W Bill

Match in comments:
Annette, this is an online magazine, not the cloth supplier W Bill...

ClothJuly 21st 2010

Half-lined and unlined jackets

May 7th 2010

An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...

Half-lined and unlined jackets

Match in comments:
Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...

JacketsMay 7th 2010

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

February 17th 2010

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

Match in comments:
I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...

Reader questionsFebruary 17th 2010