Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Wednesday, March 3rd 2021
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This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here.

I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels bespoke. Any reader that normally buys ready-made suits, or most made-to-measure, would feel they were getting something superior.

But there are noticeable differences from the full bespoke Sexton too – which I have previously used for a grey-flannel suit in the same cut, here.

The most obvious of these is that the chest is rather stiffer, largely as a result of it being machine padded, rather than by hand. Of course, you can have a lightweight machine-padded canvas too, as most Italian RTW suits use. But Sexton uses heavier materials.

There are also some small differences in the fit. The collar sits nicely on the back of the neck most of the time, but when the arms are raised – for example, when I put my hands in my pockets – it lifts off the neck more than my bespoke would. The left sleeve could perhaps also do with a tweak to the pitch.

We did have two fittings on the suit, but both these issues are ones that I didn’t notice until I started wearing the suit for longer periods. And both will hopefully be able to be corrected.

Overall, I’m pleased with the suit and I think it delivers what it claims: an Edward Sexton cut that’s more accessible than the normal bespoke (given that it cost £2500, inc. VAT as opposed to £5500).

However, I wouldn’t say that it feels the same as the full English bespoke experience, as I have done with some other offshore services such as Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

Interestingly, in one way the experience mirrored that of some other high-end made-to-measure I’ve had, such as from The Armoury.

This was, that while the fundamentals of balance and 3D shape were good from the start, smaller and easier things went wrong. With The Armoury, it was the trouser waist that was a size too big. With this Sexton suit, it was the length of the trousers.

It felt a little silly changing the length, which was too long, too short, and then a little too long again. But Dominic and Dan were very pleasant throughout this process – which all took place in the new Sexton shop on Savile Row.

The only other changes we made were putting a little more shape in the waist, and shortening the sleeve length. Edward was present for the first fitting, but not subsequently as smaller changes were required.

By the way, I’ve found that alteration marks on the trousers, such as those visible around the cuff in the photos here, fade over time with wear, washing and pressing. So they won’t be there forever, even on linen.

It’s important to note that Edward cut a new pattern for me on this suit, rather than use my existing one. This is something he is wont to do, apparently, even on old customers.

So my experience was closer to the normal Offshore Bespoke one, in that a completely new pattern was drafted. It would have been less similar if my other, already refined pattern had been used.

Although, at the same time, we can’t know how much that pattern was aided by Edward’s existing knowledge of my shape and peculiarities.

In terms of the make, this suit is mostly the same as full bespoke. The finishing on things like buttonholes and buttons are all obviously done by hand, for example.

However, some points are done by machine, such as the attachment of the lining inside the jacket and the waistband on the trousers. The work that is done by hand also isn’t as fine as on my full bespoke.

This says more about the standard of the full Sexton bespoke, I think, than the offshore product.

The former is among the best in the world, with especially fine, precise work coming out of London. The offshore standard is still very good – better than most Neapolitans, for example – but not at the same level as London.

The style of the Edward Sexton double-breasted is one I love, but I find often doesn’t come across in simple fit shots.

The big sweep of the bellied lapel is wonderful, particularly when married with the wide, roped shoulder and long straight edge below the waist button. But it can look a little square in straight-on photos, with arms soldier-like at the sides.

The stylish line of the lapel is really revealed in more normal, three-quarters shots like the one below. Or when you have a hand in your pocket, sweeping back that front edge and revealing the large overlap. Even seated, as shown top, with the two sides of the jacket falling across the lap.

A good cut works well in all these contexts – and double-breasted styles have particular potential for doing it well.

The linen, by the way, is from W Bill (WB61324, Fine Irish Linens). It is what I would always pick for a suit or trousers in linen: Irish, plain weave and 12-13oz.

The dark-brown colour is one I’ve enjoyed in tailoring for quite a while – see my Dalcuore high-twist suit for example.

I find it’s particularly good at looking smart and subtle, yet distinctive. It’s an unusual colour for linen so you’re unlikely to find someone wearing the same thing. But it also avoids the colonial/wedding feel of cream or beige.

The trousers will also do double duty with smart polo shirts or knitwear in the summer, in the same way as I wear that colour of flannels in the winter (see here).

I particularly like this shade of brown with blue (especially denim and chambray) and the neutrals of white, grey and black.

Above it’s shown with a chambray-linen shirt and black knitted tie, while below the shirt is a white twill, worn without a tie. My alternative for the second outfit was a black shirt with cream handkerchief, which looked just as good (in the same vein as the Vestrucci flannel here).

The dusty brown does supports bright colours very well - as with the handkerchief shown below – but for me they’re best in a small accessory.

I’ve deliberately worn the handkerchief in a demonstrative fashion, springing flower-like out of the breast pocket.

It’s not what I’d normally do, but I think it helps draw attention when you’re not wearing anything at the neck. And let’s face it, this kind of suit is going to be worn to an event or dinner most of the time, where such flounces are more acceptable.

The subject of suits without ties is also one that deserves delving into at a later date.

The shoes shown are Belgravias from Edward Green, in black cordovan. The handkerchief is from Rubinacci and the tie is knitted silk from Tie Your Tie.

The linen shirt is from Luca Avitabile, the white twill from Simone Abbarchi.

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke starts at £2,500 (including VAT). Details on the whole process can be found on the background article here.

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt 

EdwardSexton.co.uk

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Anonymous

Simon
Is 240gsm too light a linen for a suit?

matrix.rx1

Simon, if I may “This is something he is wont to do, apparently, even on old customers.”

Martins

I guess he means “is won’t” being a contradiction… do you mean will do or won’t do? I was a tad confused by it too…

Sam

Might be commenter is confused between “wont” and “won’t”

This is a great suit – I was thinking of ES Offshore prior to my wedding being postponed. Hopefully I can revisit the idea at some point in the future.

Karol

Yup, that’s a bit an unusual phrase in a non-English speaking country

MB

And to think, I wondered if it was a moment of hesitation regarding “old customers” vs “returning customers”.

Doubtless my own insecurities coming to the fore!

Karol

Simon, that is one reason why I like writing comments here. I wouldn’t get a chance to practice a more “proper” way of writing in English otherwise, even if just for variety’s sake.

Mohammed Nabeel

Hello Simon, great suit and love the colour. Well put together. I’d also like to know if your imbalance of neck and shoulder height was delt with in the first or the second fitting?

Peter Hall

Wonderful colour.
Simon, this has persuaded me to finally go bespoke.
Is this linen weight suitable for travel? With the ending of restrictions, I’m likely to return to short flights, taxi and , then, meeting and would aim to arrive looking smart. Also, your advice,please, I have a pair of Carmina cordovan derbies(brown but dark) . Would this combo of brown suit and brown shoes work?Do I need a stronger contrast?
Thank you

Anonymous

What about burgundy or Cordovan #8 as a color with brown/tobacco-colored linens?

Nick

Hello Simon, that is indeed a lovely garment. Maybe it’s just the photographs, but are the trousers a little narrower than you usually get?

I’d just like to throw my two cents in, advocating the brown linen suit. I took delivery about 4 months ago, at the beginning of this most recent Sydney summer, a single breasted suit (in Holland & Sherry linen) and it is such a versatile item of clothing. With natural shoulders and patch pockets, it works at the pub with white leather trainers, a balmy evening soiree with black Sagans, and with a knit tie (as you have here) in my ad agency office. I’ve also been breaking up the trousers and jacket to great effect too. I’ve been wearing it all summer, and it’s breaking in and rumpling nicely. If any readers are umming and ahhing, I say pull the trigger – you won’t regret it. Nick.

Nick

Sorry, also meant to ask: is that the Frank Clegg tote in the last shot?

Anonymous

What color of leather? Is this their standard Tall Tote? Thanks.

Marc

Simon, I don’t know if this has already been discussed on the other post about this offshore bespoke service, but what’s your take on the “savoir-faire” from Savile Row that is exported to China and sometimes India? Couldn’t this be a direct threat in a few years time to some of the tailors on Savile Row if these trained craftsmen in Asia begin to offer their bespoke services directly to the final consumers?

Burt

Interesting point indeed. If you ask some of the younger tailors that were trained on SR for the past 10 years and have left the Row in recent years for a bundle of reasons (e.g. lack of management, no career opportunities) some of them believe SR in the end will become a kind of MTM, attracting a bling-bling clientele that’s more interested in the name & brand. While they “the young ones” will hold the torch of fully bespoke and their ateliers (with daylight!) will be scattered all over London. Not sure if this is the true, though, but according to some of them it may very well be (part of) the picture in some years with SR companies depending on MTM for their survival. It’s all very hypothetical, I know. But as one of them says: “What’s the point of coming to London and getting measured if the suit is made somewhere in Asia anyway. I just can’t see the point.”

Anon

Like Matrix mentioned, “This is something he is wont to do, apparently, even on old customers.”

I believe this should be “This is something he wants to do”?

Ferdinand

Haha how unusual exactly is “wont” for native speakers? I have also never read/heard that word before, having lived in English speaking countries for more than ten years now.

Nice suit, though with an open collar and the pocket square it looks a little studied. I am a little unsure how well the dramatic style goes with the casual material. I also nearly always find that brown simply doesn’t go that well with people who have a pale complexion.

Darryl

I think most native speakers would be aware of ‘wont’ even if they didn’t use it themselves. Lets keep our vocabulary extensive and rich; like fine tailoring we will miss it when its gone!

Paul Marks

Looks a really nice suit Simon. Nice to see a decent length on the jacket. Great price as well.
Paul

Burt

The trousers would benefit from a fuller cut, no? The pronounced look of that jacket almost make them look like toothpicks. That’s a general remark about English tailors, e.g. Davide Taub cuts his trousers very narrow as well. I would think a wider cut is more flattering in the general picture – and in summerr certainly they’re certainly more comfortable.
I like the colour of the suit 🙂

Hristo (STEMESO Socks)

Great choice of fabric and colour.
As for me I would prefer to have 1 suit from the full experience than 2 with a machine padded chest made offshore.

Gregoire

Simon
I am thinking of what I would term a summer “knockabout” suit made. Would go for a navy or brown linen. Key difference, however, would be a teba jacket instead of normal jacket. Would this look too weird do you think? I want something pretty casual that can be worn as seperates.

Most dressed up would be a cotton tie for summer drinks, most relaxed would be plimsolls at the pub.

thoughts always welcome

Carl

I had a similar question. I know that you are a skeptic to using suit jackets and trousers as separates. But I wonder if I used the same linen but a neapolitan style jacket with patch pockets. Would that work as a summer suit where the trousers also could be used with shirt and shacket, and the jacket with chinos or fresco trousers.

Max

Hi Simon,
great suit! Looks complete with or without a tie. Did you buy the black Belgravias in cordovan RTW or were they MTO?
Thanks and have a great day!

Ravi Singh

Simon, a wonderful suit and a beautifully written post if I may add. I must also compliment you on the combination of the shirt, tie and suit, it really shows the versatility of the suit.

Stephen

Hi Simon,
I just wanted to reiterate my comment on the previous ‘off shoring’ post.
My observation here (not a criticism), is the difference between off-shoring bespoke is in principle hardly different to the much criticised cheaper manufacturing of products sold in retail chain stores and online . It appears just a matter of degree.
Both are cheaper (therefore possibly more disposable), increase sales for the brand and offer more accessibility through the opportunity for more people to purchase products similar to those normally outside their price range. Utilising a manufacturing base where factory and labour costs are cheaper.
My point is that neither is necessarily wrong, however I don’t feel it’s equitable to regard them differently.
As I said at the outset this is not as criticism, simply an observation.

Stephen

On a completely different subject, you mentioned on a previous post that John Simons were updating their website. They have done so now. It looks very good and the quality of the images are some of the best around.

Chancellor

I’ve always thought double breasted in linen is not the best combination: linen would be good to keep one cooler, but then one has the overall of a double-breasted that makes the suit warmer. And for a seasonal item, having something more striking like a double-breasted probably further reduces the frequency of wear of something that’s already not going to be worn very frequently.

Any thoughts on the above?

Otherwise, I’m a fan of double-breasted suits, and dark brown suits, and think this suit shows the strength of both very well.

Luke

Hi Simon,

How much would you say the structure of this suit—lining, canvas, etc.—might contribute to it being warmer in summer? I tend to run pretty warm, but adore the look of this. Just wanted to get your take. Would Edward Sexton offer an option that might allow for more breathability, do you think?

REUVEN L LAX

My memory is that they would allow half lined or quarter lined jackets for offshore bespoke, but no changes to the interior structure – that would require full bespoke. I may be wrong though.

Initials CG

This brown linen would be right at home walking the streets of Florence! Lovely, really. I confess that the “colonial” look of cream or beige caused a slight “ouch” as is customary (wont to do) when I read your articles. I was in between the brown and the banana beige. Now I know what was in the back of my head when I chose the yellow beige. I just couldn’t put my finger on it. Oh well, next year. Brown is so underrated as color for a suit, but it is far more effective in moving from formality to casual than navy or grey, in so much as both the brown jacket and trousers work well on their own. Navy trousers and the grey towers less so. Not sure how the banana linen will do when I separate them..
Just had to do the “wont” play… When I first saw it I thought “Oxbridge” or something,… funny how I can’t see an American using it, at least not under the age of 60. Need to get off the internet, Netflix and go back to reading more often.

Peter

A really beautiful looking suit, and a cracking advert for English tailoring. The interplay of the formal cut and more casual cloth is sensational, and shows that Savile Row needn’t be for the boardroom alone.

Detlef Rueskamp

I very much like the buttons, Simon. Well chosen. Can you say which ones they are, or were they E. Sexton proprietary?

Stephen H.

Hi Simon,

Have you had water stains on your linen suits before? How would you deal with such issue? Thanks.

Barry Pullen

Bravo on wearing brown and black! I was honestly beginning to believe I was the only person in the world who did this– nice to have a bit of company.

AB

Hi Simon, I agree that the dark brown looks stunning. However is it really suitable for work place and meetings? I think for suit it’s navy 90% of the time and grey 10% of the time, it’s pretty rare to see any colour other than this two so I’m slightly wary of wearing dark brown. Is dark brown more suitable for events than office wear? Thanks!

William Nixon

Excellent suit, I particularly love the shade of brown and how it works with black! I take it from the original post covering offshore bespoke that you received this suit quick recently, you must have been cold for the photoshoot!!
It does ask the question the logistics of how you organise the photoshoots with your photographer, I would be interested to know how you plan and whether you bring multiple outfits with you.

W

Noel

Fantastic suit Simon. I think linen is a great material for making a DB seem less formal. The only DB suit I currently own is in tobacco linen for this reason. I use it more as separates than a full suit.

What do you think of this brown vs tobacco (like your Dege suit)? Both avoid the colonial connotations but perhaps this brown is more versatile and can even look better when the sun isn’t shining (even if tobacco is a little more interesting )?

Noel

How wide is the lapel by the way Simon ? Would be nice to compare with the other suits you’ve published those numbers.

Justin

The suit looks great, Simon. I had a very similar one made a few years ago in the Sexton offshore bespoke. Brown Caccioppoli linen with the low -button 4×1, patch pockets, and no vent. The suit is beautiful and I often wear it with a white open collar shirt or just the jacket with formal light colored cotton or linen trousers. In retrospect I wish I would have went with a 6×1 DB. The low button closure makes for a beautiful line, but overall the look is so dramatic it stands out more than I’d like for it to.

Andrew Poupart

That’s a beautiful suit, Simon. I’m a big fan of Edward Sexton, both the man and the house. The cut and the color work very well how you have styled it with an open-neck shirt. I think the structure of the Sexton cut is a flattering look for you.

Dan James

Simon,
As always a lovely suit. Like you say standing straight on, the long edge below the waist button and the lapel seem a little boxy but in other photos the sweep of the lapel is beautiful. I think I might have moved bottom 2 right buttons ¼ or ½ inch to the right for a tighter look and to accentuate the flow of the lapel but that is just my style.
Interesting combination of colours you wore with. Not quite sure of the black shoes and tie. I think the colour of your cordovan loafers would have been just as good but perhaps a little too casual. Love the interplay of the different weights of linen you are wearing at the moment. Personally, I would have gone with very, very light blue linen shirt and a blue or sage knitted tie but then you run the risk of merging all into one but that is my wont (used correctly).

Gary Mitchell

FYI – I do also own an English language school should anyone be interested…… I could do a discount for PS followers.

As for the suit, brown is a colour I would never choose, then when I do I am really please with it. I have a very similar one that you are wearing but in cashmere… now I am very tempted to go get a linen one. Suit looks tip top shipmate.

Tony H

Simon, I think this is a great option for pretty much anyone who works somewhere where casual suits are the go (or here in Australia, where linen is the go for much of the year in a lot of places).

I have a quite unrelated question, though: how do you fit all these suits into your house? If you have any suggestions for keeping more suits than anyone would ever need handy in a way that means you can actually wear most of them without going to your storage unit, I’d love an article on it.

Or is the nearest charity shop near to you filled to brim with exquisitely made suits with one shoulder higher than the other?

Josh

Hello Simon. What do you think about old Tailored Garments from back in the 1930s and the style from back then?

Josh

Yes thank you.

Josh

Flynn

Hello, Simon.

Lovely suit! Just a question about your comment that the trousers will do ‘double duty’.

I’ve previously been advised not to wear the jacket and trousers of a suit as separates because over time they may visibly show different levels of wear. Do you think breaking up a suit is contraindicated for this reason (i.e. other than for style)? I guess it may be more of a possibility with certain fabrics – like fine worsteds developing a more pronounced sheen or ‘patina’ with wear, perhaps?

For that reason also, I’ve noticed over the course of my travels that tailors in South Korea offer a second pair of trousers to use as a separate when commissioning a suit.

If not, then it makes a casual suit in a heavy linen like this all the more attractive a proposition, living in Australia as I do. As I already have a nice pair of dark brown Crispaire trousers, so dark bottle green may be just as versatile. Would you agree?

Many thanks.

Jay Weir

Hi Simon- love that shade of brown- it does give a lot of options for wearing the full suit and/or trousers, as you mentioned. If you have a moment, might you share you thoughts about using the cordovan shoe as you make your choice of which shoes to wear? I think the cordovan steps up things just a touch- subtle and complementary to the suiting.

George Blumfield

Very nice suit and you wear it well; thanks for the post

Avery MR

Are there any online courses teaching Savile Row Standards Tailoring or only attending Savile Row Academy in London.

Edward Rising

I’ll be interested to see how you find a double breasted linen suit in heat of summer. I have one and even though it is linen (W Bill 13oz by WW Chan), it is too warm for its purpose. On a hot day unbuttoning a single breasted linen jacket seams natural and cooling. Unbuttoning a d/b looks messy. Buttoned and you have twice the fabric over the torso; not what you need.

Kingstonian

A suit that is double breasted and in a brown colour seems at odds with advice given in your recent post ‘mistakes I have made’.

The message there was to go for garments that would get a lot of use – single breasted suits in standard colours.

John

Hi Simon,
This is a lovely suit! A quick question: if the attachement of the lining is made by machine, it shouldn’t be as consequential as we usualy assume it to be.
What is your own take on this?
John

John

That is exactly what I meant!Thank you for your reply, Simon. Greatly appreciated!

WES WP

Dear Simon –

I “want” to say that (as an English professor), you won’t likely use the word wont anytime soon, again. I’ve never seen such controversy around such a harmless word that – interestingly enough – I used two days ago for the first time in my writing (ever). To be honest, I had to look it up on-line to make sure I was using it correctly. And I was. And you did, too. Well done.

Be well!

Wes

WES WP

It’s right up there with – “rapt attention” and “brought to bear.”

Not to mention (or to mention in this case) – infer vs. imply.

Vt

Nice suit! I am wont to use the word wont even when I don’t want to.

SC

I’m a little confused when you state that Edward tends to cut a new pattern for older bespoke clients who wish the offshore option subsequently. I can see doing this for you as part of a more accurate review for a potential new client, though as you mention, he would be aware of any particular idiosyncratic quirks from before. However, would it not be more efficient and more better fitting to adjust the existing bespoke pattern of a former client? It would lead to less need for alterations and a better fit right from the get go, I would suspect…

Peter

It appears a size larger than you would normally wear Simon – is that the case

Chris Jones

Hi Simon
When did you order yours?
I ordered two at (what I thought was) the same time as you. I haven’t heard anything !!!

Chris Jones

Sorry, got fixated on who got whose first !!!

It’s a very nice suit. The Sexton cut does suit you (my 5 so far are similarly pleasing). I have an identical one to this in a HFW grey flannel save for an extra ticket pocket but have linen ones too, opting for Dugdale Crommelin for a jacket and Natural Elements for a suit and Odd Trousers. I have a 4/1 double breasted Fresco Lite and a SB HFW Chalk Stripe on order and hopefully arriving soon.
As for your pocket hankie thoughts I have a (self imposed) rule of wearing one when I don’t wear a tie and not sporting one when I do. I think it has to be a little peacock-like when worn with a Sexton suit because the lapel covers most of the breast pocket !!!

Josh

Lovely to see the result of this commission after the promising introductory post; it‘s so much more understated – in the best, most versatile way, I mean – than I expected from the Sexton style examples in the original article! This bodes well for me and raises the possibility of using the service for suits beyond the most formal or flamboyant occasions. The colour is wonderful in linen too. I‘m sure Willy will be impressed 😉 Thanks as always for the insights and inspiration

Peter O

Wonderful suit! Close up pf jacket front very nice. You look great, Simon! What happened to your hats from Chicago? Nothing to fit for summertime?

Robert

Simon-
Offshore Bespoke’s impact on SR’s future should be front and center here. I’m stateside. We lost domestic artisanal work to China long ago. If this review doesn’t give one pause then you guys across the pond aren’t paying attention.

Simon, in 20 years might you be telling your grandchildren about a storied street with shuttered shops where British tailors once crafted fine suits? Or will this trend breath new life into an arcane institution allowing access for more and younger clients ? I believe you’re in the second camp. ($7700 for an ES full bespoke suit! …no wonder Whitcomb & Shaftsbury found a niche).

This is a thought provoking big deal. Although I enjoy discussing shoe selection and shirt color, there is a more important story here. I know you will follow it closely.

Robert

Thank you for replying. Having never set foot in any of these SR shops I appreciate your commentary. And yes, there is a mystique. I follow your reviews daily and find them both informative and ( like this one) thought provoking. All the best.

Nick

Robert raises an interesting point. I would point out that relying on immigrants and outsourcing are very different.
In a way a wouldn’t mind Savile Row losing it’s status as a THE place to be if you want to be in the bespoke industry. If moving to another location in London means you don’t have to pay extortionate rents and can pass on some of the savings to your customers and also feel more secure as a business because of lower costs then I would never think ‘Oh but it doesn’t say Savile Row on the label’.

Robert

Nick. Thank you for your thoughtful comment. And yes, as you noted, the main issue is outsourcing and not reliance on immigrant labor. My tailor immigrated from Paraguay. But he lives in my community. His work is superb. Maybe not ES superb, but I can live with that since his prices are within my reach. He has no SR prestige. But when I commission a piece he alone touches the garment. The unfinished piece doesn’t go on a trans global grand tour. My money stays local. And as a result I help his local shop stay viable. Simon has suggested that in England until recently there has been little appetite for this type of work. That has likely allowed outsourcing to flourish and certainly rings true. My tailor is not a young man and he is struggling to find an apprentice. The work is hard and I suspect profit margins are slim. This is a very thought provoking topic that isn’t going to go away.

Daniel

Hi Simon

I enjoy reading your honest, constructive reviews of different tailors work, but it seems your main focus is on the jacket. As someone who has a particular interest in trousers it would be good if you were to pay them a bit more attention in your write ups?

Burt

Simon wrote: “But I can do a piece at some point more on trouser cuts.”
+1 🙂

Dirk

Hi Simon, would you mind giving a little more detail on the back of the jacket? Specifically the pleating/drag lines near the armscye. I run into issues with pleating like that as well as fabric pooling below the arm and collapsing a bit in the chest. I just wonder if it’s even worth trying to address. I see an elegant sophisticated gentleman such as yourself with some similar issues, and wonder if it’s a fools errand to even try.

Thanks for your time and insight.

JL

Simon,
Firstly thank you so much for an informative post, as usual.
I have a quick question. “The offshore standard is still very good – better than most Neapolitans.” I assume you are not talking about those big named houses in Napoli, but off-shore bespoke by Chineses / Indians offers better quality than done by the Italians? The difference in price between off-shore bespoke and Neapolitan bespoke is not that big, so just wondering, as I’ve never experienced the off-shore service and always doubted the quality, your further explanation would be beneficial.

Ollie E

Hey Simon, this is beautiful.

What’s the waist suppression like on ES versus the newer (& newest gen.) nutters tailors… C&M & MB? The photos I see of ES, the waist always appears to be more ‘forgiving’.

Ollie E

Got it, thank you Simon.

For the linens, I noticed you’ve gone for Scabal, W Bill, Dugdale etc. Any reason why you’ve chosen them over Solbiati? (Other than weight)

CDBP

I will start by saying that I am not the biggest fan of this style, notably the shoulders. That is entirely a matter of taste and not right or wrong.

What might be a teeny bit less subjective is a question the conjunction of an inherently more relaxed material and a highly tailored style. It feels like this style of tailoring might suit a more formal fabric.

Final observation : I think this suit could be great in 5 to 10 years but you have to wear it hard. If you wear this suit hard, it will end up looking great. If you treat if with kid gloves it will continue to look over tailored and precious for the nature of the material and the intended purpose.

All personal opinions. No right or wrong answer. De gustibus etc.

Alexander

28/07/2015 Simon said : “No, I would never wear a DB suit without a tie.”
I guess there is an exception now for linen? I think a formal worsted suit without a tie looks horrible, because of my connotation with all the boring politicians who think they look so dynamic and young without a tie. But I think it looks really good in your example above. I absolutely adore the look of a chocolate brown linen suit well done.

Matthew Mills

Simon,
Excellent article as always.
I very much like the formal, rather dramatic cut contrasting with the linen cloth. I am looking to commission something similar in a different colour.

Is this lined, unlined or half? I am keen to maintain the shape and structure of the cut whilst still keeping the summer lightness. Planning on half lined but curious.

Suracherd

Would you please explain me the differencs of Edward Sexton,Chittleborough and Morgan and Michael Browne?

Kurtis

Hi Simon.
Beautiful suit.
How wide is foot hole opening on this suit?
Is it the same as the size of foot hole you would normally adopt?
Thank you!

Toby

Hi Simon

How cool does this suit/cloth wear and what is the coolest suit/ or jacket and trouser that you own?

Thanks

Henry

Hi Simon, love this suit. I think with the increased popularisation of Asian tailors, such as prologue, the anthology, the armoury etc (due to their often humid climate) and the reduced requirement to look so formal these days, linen suits are something I personally have been looking at more recently.
Do you think this suit would be suitable for an English wedding with a semi-formal dress-code? I’m a little tired of my go-to blue suit and I often think a wedding is a good excuse to wear something less ‘businessy’.
Thank you,

Justin

Simon-
Would you consider going with Edward’s single breasted style (usually 1 button and peak lapel) on a commission? I have a DB by Edward as well and have considered a SB as a doing out to dinner dinner/occasion suit as well but have yet to nail down a cloth. Thanks.