Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather.

Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal feels cool for the same reason.

Linen also tends to be quite breathable – but that’s down to the weave.

Because linen is a strong, relatively thick fibre it can be made in an open and therefore more breathable weave structure.

That’s also usually a plain weave, for the same reason. Plain weaves don’t have to be woven as densely as twills, for example, and are therefore more breathable.



The main reason people dislike linen is, of course, the wrinkling. This is because linen has no natural stretch (unlike wool).

The wrinkling does make linen less formal, but in an age when few men have to wear a smart suit to work, it can be a nice alternative for tailoring.

A navy linen jacket with a polo shirt underneath might be an effective way to dress up without looking too corporate.  



For some, a wrinkled linen suit also has a certain relaxed, dégagé elegance.

This might be because linen is a relatively long-staple fibre (certainly compared to cotton) and therefore continues to move and drape well, even when wrinkled.

That also makes it less likely to become misshapen (eg bag at the knees).

You could argue that after 4 or 5 wears, a linen suit will look better than some wools. Both will be wrinkled, but linen will wear it better.



If the wrinkled look is a big turn-off, a good alternative is to wear just a linen jacket, or just trousers.

A hopsack jacket is be a nice partner to linen trousers, and high-twist wool trousers (e.g. above) a partner to a linen jacket.

However it should be noted that, in general, wearing a linen jacket and trousers in different colours should be avoided. The similarity of texture looks odd.

Better, if you want the coolness of linen in both, is to have a jacket in a wool/silk/linen mix – a standard offering from Italian mills in jacketing bunches.



Pure linens tend to be one of two weights: either 10-13oz from Irish mills (e.g. above), or 8/9oz from European ones (e.g. the other tobacco suit, shown at top).

This is because historically Irish mills have spun their yarn a bit coarser (1/25 or 1/10Nm) than Italian mills (1/25 to 1/40). They also use a closer setting during weaving, making it denser.

Irish 12/13oz linen feels heavier and looks sharper. Although it will wrinkle, the wrinkles are larger and fewer (something you can see above, again). The 8/9oz linens feel a lot lighter, but tend to wrinkle consistently all over.

I tend to prefer Irish linens, certainly in a suit; and if I want a lighter weight jacket, I go for a wool/silk/linen mix.

Irish linens, by the way, sometimes have a sanforised finish, which makes a little stiff and shiny. This often washes out when the suit is cleaned.



Among linen’s other properties are that is highly absorbent, but moisture evaporates quickly (another plus for hot weather, and a similarity with wool); and that its smoothness means it doesn’t attract lint and so needs little brushing (unlike wool).  

Linen is also very strong, and deals well with abrasion (so won’t wear down at the elbows, for example). Signs of wear tend to come where the cloth is folded and the fibres crack, such as on the top of the collar.

Perhaps most importantly, linen fibres have natural imperfections along their length that show up as ‘slubs’ in the cloth.

It is this organic, irregular look that often makes people most passionate about it. The same people that like hairy tweeds in the winter tend to like the natural, slubby look of linen in the summer.



Linen will probably never quite escape its associations with red-faced colonials or the man from Del Monte. But there are a lot of ways to wear linen other than as a full, cream suit.

Natural colours such as tobacco, olive and dark green are often good, particularly in a tailored trouser in the summer. And off-white or biscuit (above) are nice alternatives to cream.

Navy can work well, but usually not as a formal suit – not as a replacement for worsted wool to the office.

Linen can be dyed pretty much any colour though, and according to the mills the trend at the moment is for plain, bright colours and pastels.

Personally, I’d suggest starting with some olive or biscuit-coloured trousers, and then moving up to a tobacco suit.

Wear it three or four times, and then revel in the wrinkles.



Photography: All Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man except: top suit image, Luke Carby; bright blue jacket, Drake’s; checked and yellow cloths, Rubinacci.

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Fantastic post about a fantastic material. Out of curiosity, I viewed a 2014 GQ article I happened upon as I was searching for more about linen today. It got me somewhat triggered that the writer would hate on linen so much.

Something that has put me off from commissioning another made-to-measure linen shirt is the amount that my first one had expanded after a few wears. I find it a shame that something would actually dissuade me somewhat from using the material, because it’s just so good for where I live.

There didn’t seem to be any unraveled darts in the back, so I’ve wondered since then: does linen actually expand after a few wash and press cycles? Would that happen if it were a linen-cotton mix?


I appreciate the helpful advice, Simon. I’ll keep that in mind next time.



How do you clean your linen garments? I have a linen field jacket that has undergone some wear over the past year, and it could do with some cleaning; would you dry-clean it like woolen fabrics or just machine wash at home?

Christian Gill

Hi Simon
Thanks for your very interesting writing. I’m from Australia, where I suspect we are significantly more casual. I have however been invited to an August wedding in England’s Lake District. It’s a 1:30PM service and the invitation reads ‘Formal’. Do you think a single breasted mid blue/grey linen suit be out of the question in terms of formality? Kind Regards, Christian


What about shrinkage and care? I know that some brands like Drakes writes that you only should dry clean their linen shackets? (Like the one you are wearing in the picture).


Very nice article that explains linen’s characteristics very simply. Well done.



Would you ever wear navy linen trousers as a separate? Eg with say a checked beige wool jacket.



Thank you very much indeed, excellent piece. Could you possibly mention what trouser you wear on a the second shot (with a navy overshirt)?

Felix Sylvester Eggert

I was thinking the same as “Anonymous”, and the reminded myself, that they probably are the Hollywood trousers by Sexton.

Just had a look on their website.

They are 478€ for the RTW Version. Any comment on value?


Thank you very much. I well remember your piece on these trousers, but has mistaken it for something else.


Isn’t that navy overshirt linen too? (which would go against what you said about wearing only one linen item)


I find even irish linen at 300-350 g tends to bag at the knees, but then again I’ve never tried anything lighter in linen, and I find all trousers bag to some degree. Cut and fit naturally makes a difference too.

PS. I happen to be wearing grey linen trousers and a white friday polo today. Just got delivery of two more polos, they’ve really come to be a staple of mine. Thanks.


Why do trousers bag in the knees ?
Too much fabric on the leg ? Poor cloth ? Poor cut ?


Very interesting read, once more. There’s a ‘featured bunch’ box to the side of the article from Scabal that mentions “delavé” linen as a specially treated variety with an aged look. I’ve seen it in other bunches and wasn’t quite sure what to make of it.. what do you say, Simon? On your list or not? Thanks


Absolutely fantastic article!

Is there also an environmental advantage to linen compared to other cloths? This summer, in London, I’ve seen a number of retailer window displays pushing linen as it uses less water to make but I’m not sure of the technicalities here.


Hi Simon,

Would you ever iron your linen trousers? I own a linen jacket and the only thing I do is hanging it in the bathroom for a couple of days until the wrinkles have faded out a bit..

Bobby Reed

Steaming is good, too.



A minor correction here. Linen does ‘expand’. What gives wool, for example, it’s great properties is its complex molecular structure . It is not homogeneous as linen and cotton fibres are. While wool fibres are twisted like a spring at their base (giving them elasticity and preventing stretch or the fibre ‘expanding’), linen and cotton fibres have no such structure. As a result, they stretch without returning to their previous form. A hot wash can help, however, in negating some of that stretch as it can sometimes return the cloth to its original state.

Nick Inkster

I’ve had a few pairs of trousers made up using Dugdale Lisburn, which is about 12 ozs.

They look great and hold their shape extremely well.


how easy it is to take the lining out of a linen blazer to make it largely unstructured?


I have a related question: how easy is it to remove the lining in a pair of half-lined trousers?


Simon, could you provide more details on the high-twist wool trousers you’re wearing in the photo with the blue linen jacket please?


Apologies Simon – I’m referring to the grey trousers featured in this photograph:comment image


Linen trousers are my go to in hot weather .

But why is it that linen trousers always have sleeve pockets (useless for putting away anything valuable ) and never the more secure frog pocket ?


Hi Simon,

Great article. Could you please expand a little more on why navy would not work as a formal suit for the office. Thanks.

Prince Florizel of Bohemia

Great article! Would you avoid combining linen jacket and linen trousers even if there would be some patter or interest in the weave? Eg. herringbone linen jacket with plain weave trousers.


Come on Simon!

A navy linen jacket with 2 ‘“ square check in pale blue paired with cream linen pants?

Cream linen jacket paired with navy pants?

Baby pink linen jacket paired with navy or white pants?

I appreciate you are acquiring a lot of knowledge about artisans and their craft, but you’ve got a bit of a way to go as a style guru.


Sorry, not intended to be personal, but there are times when you make an assertion on something which is clearly not founded on anything other than a personal preference.

If you don’t think top A goes with bottom B, try and say it’s about personal style rather than advise people with more limited knowledge what to do or not to do.

I’ve just spent a week travelling in Florence, Rome, Pisa and Venice. There, the locals are wearing linen top and bottom and look great.

Not meant as a personal attack, just trying to add a bit of depth to what can otherwise be a bit one dimensional comment.


This is a difficult one.
By and large, I think Simon is correct but colour is absolutely key.
Personally I only ever wear linen in suits (13oz Irish) but do wear linen trousers, shirts and Safari/shackets as part of a mix but would never wear linen trousers with a wool jacket .
To me it just looks odd.
Jake is correct, the Italians do wear linen jackets and trousers in different colours and few could deny that a navy linen jacket could go with gunmetal grey linen trousers but, they tend to use the lighter linen which for me just wrinkles way too much and makes you look like you’ve been run over by a truck. Try that colour in a heavy Irish linen and you’d risk to look like you were wearing jackets and trousers from different suits. Not a good look.
The heavier linen, which I prefer looks so much better as a suit albeit the trousers can be worn on their own or with a jacket with a material that contrasts well. Hopsack being the perfect choice.
Something I also do is to have my linen suit jackets lined. It doesn’t make them warmer and helps them keep a nice shape. Louche but not the truck look.
I bought a beautiful heavy linen tobacco work jacket from A&S this year and wear it with a white or dark blue linen shirt and chinos but I would consider pairing it with dark blue linen trousers.
A great article about a great cloth but linen is an advanced sartorial art which probably explains why so few people – outside of these column inches – wear it !

Prince Florizel of Bohemia

If I’m correct, even within this post Simon breaks his own rule. The second outfit consists of a linen top (Drake’s linen overshirt) and linen bottom (linen Hollywood top trousers). But the point is that the overshirt couldn’t be mistaken for a suit jacket.


Sounds to me Jake understands a style guru to be a scientist of applied aesthetics. Since Simon answers an infinite number of posts and spends a large amount of time writing articles, I presume his writing style has short cuts.

Peter K

I have a pair of RTW linen/wool mix trousers which are very cool to wear and don’t wrinkle very much. I haven’t run across a similar fabric since finding these. Have you encountered any linen/wool mixes Simon?


In the Ariston SS18 “130s Summer” folder, check the A959 group. 75% wool, 25% linen. 250g. Don’t know who weaves it for them.


Harrisons run a bunch called ‘Labyrinth’ which largely comprises quite statement cloths for summer jacketings, however there are a handful of lovely plainer cloths which are great for trousers or even suits that bridge the gap between formal and casual. I believe the mix is 85% wool, 7% mohair, 5% silk and 3% linen. I recently completed work on a 2pc suit for a client that was looking for a lightweight, breathable and semi-structured summer 2-pc but didn’t want the creasing of linen or cotton. I have to say I was very impressed with it. It has a little mohair sheen that I know some people don’t like but the finished article looked superb and handled great. Just the right balance of formal and casual, and very crease resistant.


Dear Simon,
once again a great article! Tank you!
My tailor from Bangkok will make a tour through Europe and I am considering to order linen shirts as well as pants and shorts. For pants you recommended to stay with muted earthy colors, how about shirts? My inspiration would be navy, light blue, white and maybe turquoise…..


Fascinating article Simon. Please could you say a little more about the overshirt you’re wearing in the second picture. Is it a herringbone? And is it navy? It looks a lighter blue – does linen tend to lighten as it ages?


Silon, I prefer the colours and look of italian linen but do not like the wrinkles. Would an italian linen twill (Ariston has nice 280g plain delavé linen twills) wrinkle substantially less than a plain weave?


Another advantage of linen is that it seems to be less affected by clothes moths.


How timely given the weather, thank you!
What are your thoughts on linen as a three-fold or two-fold suit, i.e. using both the suit as well as trousers and jacket separately – or would that be problem of the sun changing the colour too much? My tailor strongly recommended „natural“ colours for this reason instead of blue, green etc. Any thoughts?
Best Wishes,


Helpful article as always, Simon, thanks. If you compare Irish linen with a worsted that offered the same level of comfort and wearability in hot summers, which of the two would be the more durable material for a suit?


Hi Simon,
This is a very interesting post, which, I hope, would eventually convert the most skepticals among PS readers of linen’s unique sartorial benefit!
Actually, utterances such as “linen wrinkles”, “linen rumples” to justify ditching altogether linen are usually lame excuses to hide a lack of confidence in one’s own sense of style. It reminds me of those who dont like suede shoes just because they don’t shine!
However, having said that, I still have a question related to pairing linen jackets and ties. Are there specific fabrics for ties that look better when paired with linen jackets?
A great deal of time in experimenting would be drastically reduced, certainly not just for me, as you guess!


Hi Simon,
In your post “The appeal of the cotton suit” you mention that cotton has no natural stretch and so you had your suit from Elia Caliendo made a touch bigger. Is this something you would recommend for linen considering it too has no stretch?



I’m having a W Bill linen suit made and my tailor recommends going unstructured (no canvas). He says it will wear cooler without affecting the drape. He also have a soft canvas option. I know you have a W bill linen suit and would like to know what would you recommand?

Thank you


Hi Simon,

Are there any heavy weight linen you would recommend for separate trousers? Like 14oz/ 15oz and above..


Would you have linen trousers half- or unlined?


Any reason for that? Doesn’t it negate the cooling effect of linen?


You wrote somewhere that a half lining would negate the cooling properties of fresco. Shouldn’t it be the same with linen or have you revised your opinion as to fresco pants?


Why have the lining? What benefits does it provide?


Good article on a little visited subject – also good to see a range of comments. Re. wearing linen together; if the situation allows I think it can work. I have a blue, fine, shiny (sanforized) jacket that pairs with a heavier, matte, biscuit coloured linen trouser. The pairing works well, especially as the cuts are complimentary. I realise that their has been some debate already but linen, perhaps above all other cloths, has a casual chic that is hard to beat. Whether by seaside or in warm cities linen has a playfulness that allows for a little mis-matching, a more daring account of colour and a hint of carelessness in finish, fit and form. I think a little mismatched linen is OK now and then. Also I would not necessarily turn to wool as an alternate accompaniment but to cotton as I think it a more befitting match in form (lack of drape) and structure (stiffer and without stretch). For Robin; trouser pockets are nearly always side or slanted vs. frog or jean due to linen creasing and bagging around the mouth of the pocket. The other effect is that linen trousers hang better from the waist if cut in the traditional style. In the ‘jean’ style the fit of the waistband never seems right (perhaps due to the more open, looser weave vs. denim) and the hang, or fall, of the trouser is affected making it look bunched, ill fitting and slightly awkard (at least from the examples I have seen).


What would be your first shirt and tie choice with an olive linen suit (for a semi-casual summer wedding, say)?


I have been moving away from cotton and linen (and silk) to cool wool alternatives like Fresco for a variety of reasons including:

Fabric density at least for Irish linens that make them seem warmer than wool alternatives

Moisture retention that adds to the weight

Ability to really only wear once or twice before the garment needs to be dry cleaned – wool jackets in particular can be steamed and spot cleaned and can be worn a few more times

That said I did find a gorgeous beige heavier Italian linen (smoother fibers vs Irish linen but similar in weight at 14oz) that is just simply amazing – wrinkles and all

Got a gorgeous suit from John Hitchcock before he retired and had planned to get a three-piece DB from Rubinacci – unfortunately they lost the trial garment (my fault in part as I couldn’t see them for a few years).

Long story short, unless it’s a really special linen fabric, wool alternatives may be way superior and also provide some texture.


SJ, you begin by mentioning cotton with linen versus wool but seems to me you subsequently only do linen vs wool? In other words, please do cotton experience!


Any thoughts between linen vs a fabric like Crispaire and how they wear for warm weather? I’m in Florida and it’s hot and muggy. I own a Crispaire suit and like it but no linen. Which will wear cooler?

H Wong

Dear Simon,

Thanks for your article. I wonder if a linen shirt can be washed in a washing machine at home (under a delicate cycle)? (Sorry that my question is not about linen jacketing/ suiting.)



When you commented to take a jacket in a wool/linen/silk blend, were you implying that this combination would be acceptable to pair with pure linen trousers?



Hi Simon

What colour(s) would you recommend for a first linen suit? Ideally I would like a colour that allows me to wear the trousers and jackets separately.


Thank you Simon. I was looking at the Dugdale Cascade bunch (linen/silk blend) – do you think a linen silk blend would be suitable for trousers?


Hi Simon, how do you deal with shrinkage and fading linen

Matt S

Hi Simon,

I’m thinking of getting a jacket of Irish linen for next summer. Italian linen is out for me because of how much more it wrinkles. Which of your jackets or suits are made of Irish linen? Could you please share links to your articles about them? I’m interested to see how they make up and wear.

Matt S

Thank you! That’s a big help.

What do you recommend for lining a linen jacket? I have some fully lined linen jackets, but I’m not sure if they don’t breathe well because of the full lining or because the linen is a twill weave. Both probably contribute. But the lining seems to help prevent wrinkling more than in quater-lined linen jacket I have. What is your experience with lining linen with breath-ability and wrinkling?


Simon, Would you please tell me which jacket you are wearing in the picture above with the cream pants and light blue shit. Love the site, Thanks!


Dear Simon,
if I have money for one suit bespoke and one MTM and need/want one linen and one classic business;
would you say linen is more important to go bespoke or the other way around, since do to the fabric the fit is anyhow in comparison less precise?
Many Thanks!


Hi Simon,

Do you know where Drakes got their Italian linen from this past summer for their twill suits? Looking to get a pair of trousers made to match a jacket I bought from them.

Many thanks,



Hi, i‘m thinking about getting some linen bespoke shirts in navy, dark green and some other colour. Is there anything different to a classic cotton shirt, i have to consider, when at the fitting? Thx from Vienna



A summer question: I have had a number of linen things in the past, but I just got a new linen jacket and it WRINKLES a lot (not what I was expecting with an 11 oz linen). I expect and like wrinkles in certain areas with linen, mainly when they are horizontal (e.g. around the elbows or on the back), but in some areas and in certain directions they don’t look so great. I was wondering, is there anything you do to tame the wrinkles a bit between wears? I know steaming can work, but some say it can be very bad for the jacket (I don’t have decent cleaners in my area, so that isn’t really an option). Do you steam? Do you press? Do you do anything else? Thanks in advance and thanks for all the good content on the site!


Thanks for the response Simon.

I read somewhere that steaming can 1) deform some of the shaping the tailor puts into the canvas with an iron, 2) lead to busted seams, and 3) cause puckering. All these I guess would be less of a problem on the back and sleeves, though.

Have you heard anything along these lines before? I know very little about jacket construction.

Shem Teo

Hey Simon I know cream, stone, tobacco linens are often the first few colors one may consider when making a trouser. However I find them strong/flashy especially when worn without a jacket. Im wondering are there other colors you find useful to be worn just with a shirt? Mid grey perhaps?


Hi Simon

For a rather stiff linen shirt jacket, do I need to hang there on a good hanger or can they take some bashing? E.g. do they go out of shape ?


Hello Simon,
I want to have a suit made for site visits. My job is in a hot country involves lots of visits to either dusty or muddy places. I want something that will take rough treatment and that I can hand wash quite often. I was originally thinking of a drill cotton, but then I saw your comment that linen deals with abrasion well. Would you suggest an Irish linen or a cotton drill?


Thanks Simon, is there any particular bunch you would recommend?


Simon, indeed I did and a great article as well.
But I was unclear I took your advice on best to use cotton but meant any thoughts on a cotton bunch. Was thinking a Holland and Sherry “seasonal cotton” like 177500.
Maybe it is an idea for a future article, although an article on maybe less exciting than wool and linen! Although it would be interesting to read your thoughts on different weights and advantages or not of adding a little elastic.
As ever huge fan of your unpretentious views on clothing.

Andrew N

Simon, now that Christmas has passed I am starting work with my local tailor on some upcoming commissions for spring/summer. They will be casual linen with 255g fabric from moygashel. Since I am in the nyc area I am going lighter in weight than your recommendations for your London summers. I found a linen that matches your cigar linen suit that I like. I am also exploring a blue shade. I am between a blueberry, French blue, and navy. I am concerned navy will be too stuffy but the brighter colors may be too bold. Do you have any strong feelings on brightness of the shade for a blue/navy suit when it comes to linen?


Hi Simon,
Would you recommend this linen/silk and wool mix for a trouser?
Thank you

Andrew N.


Now that is January I’m starting to think about summer commissions. I got my hands on the tropical book from Spence Bryson linens from Ulster Weavers. Do you have any experience with their linens? I hear they make linens for many of the other purveyors of Irish linen.

Bois Kostas

Hi dear Sir ,

May I ask what’s your opinion for Spence Bryson Linens? I am thinking of the same colours you have mentioned. Just one information , the tropical range of Spence Bryson is actually 370 gr per linear meter because these linens are being calculated per square meter. That means that you have to calculate the 255*1,47 (width) to ring the weight per rubbing meter.



What color odd jacket would you pair with dark green linen pants?

Lindsay Eric McKee

Does a herringbone weave resist creasing better? I like the colours IN H&S South Pacific bunch. Also is this weave less cooler than plain weave?


What about grey linen? Mostly trouses, although maybe odd jacket or suit. Good high twist trousers for summer are not available for me, even though they would look better in grey.

Alex N

Dear Simon,
I find a peculiar trend in your linen jackets. Most of them are from structured tailors
despite the typically more casual context of linen. Some of the tailors I refer to are
Gieves and Hawkes, Kent Haste and Lachter, Dege and Skinner (and even A&S).
Is that intentional? Do you find that linen works best with a more structured construction
instead of a Neapolitan one?


Hello Simon,

which jackets and trousers work in combination with a dark green linen shirt?


Any manufacturers that you’d recommend for the wool/linen/silk fabric? Is there a % composition that would be more appropriate for a full suit?

If not, is there another composition that included linen that you may suggest?

Thank you!


May I ask why you don’t recommend the blend for a suit? I assume it has to do with pant weight.


Hi simon assuming one has most of the bases covered (grey work trousers in light-mid-dark, light beige cotton, olive cotton) for trousers, and would only get 1 linen trouser, would you say dark brown (almost chocolate) is useful?


Mr. Crompton,
I was wondering if a linen shirt Would also look odd when worn with a linen suit, considering different colours of the shirt and the suit. What would be your advice on that point?


Simon – in the picture above – cream jacket, white polo shirt & green trousers – do you have the details of the trouser fabric please?

Clive Don

Hello! The off-White jacket worn with the white polo and green chinos – which jacket if yours is that, Simon?


Simon what trousers would you pair a tobacco jacket with? I find it unintuitively challenging to find a good option that matches the texture and color. Cream linen seems logical but seems a bit too “tonal”


Hi Simon!
Love reading your articles. I am having certain doubts and would be very kind if you could help?
What is your opinion on chocolate brown linen trouser?
Would it look good with a navy shirt?
Can i wear oxblood colour shoes with dark brown or chocolate brown trouser?

There are a lot of contrasting views i have got from many people about dark brown trousers with some calling it a not so impressive colour for trouser .


Can dark brown suede work?


What would be your view on charcoal grey linen trouser?
Need a dark coloured trouser. Dark olive green is not available with my tailor. He has dark brown with him but i think it would be very hard to find a shoe to match with it.
Thanks in advance


I have found charcoal grey flat front wool trouser to be very formal and therefore was looking out for an alternative in fabric for them for smart casuals
Do you think charcoal grey linen would provide same casual appeal that maybe charcoal flannel trouser provides?
So should i go ahead and commision a charcoal grey linen trouser?


Hey! I realise that you must be inundated with queries like this all the time – but I wanted to ask about two things; firstly I’m looking for pointers on what to look for in a summer suit for the workplace, my wardrobe is currently chock full of wool or wool-blend suits and I’m thinking that a linen option might be worth an investment? Secondly, as a general style guide, I’m a fresh-faced lawyer on a starter salary and would really appreciate some advice about where I could look for quality garments at a decent price, or alternatively, what kind of staple pieces you consider are worth investing in. Would massively appreciate any advice you could give on those topics! Cheers, and happy New Year!

WIll in DC

How is linen in odor control and drying compared to cotton or polyester?

Also can linen button-down shirts work for “business casual” dress during hot humid summers?

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

Would you consider dark indigo for linen trousers (I know you mentioned navy already)? The reason why I ask is because I have seen sartorial stylist wear dark blue/ linen trousers with beige colour jackets and with shirts in white/pale blue/light wash chambray which Jean Manuel Moreau has illustrated very well. I believe linen offers a texture fabric where even dark blue in trousers can work as a separate. On this article you have mentioned Navy linen can work.


Hi Simon, great website!
I was wondering what do you think about wearing a linen shirt with worsted suit?


I have a question regarding linen that I havent been able to find an answer to:
Linen shirts can ususally be machine washed (30-40 degrees) BUT linen trousers have to be dry cleaned! This doesn
t seem logical. There is no canvas etc. in a trousers and I presume that there isn`t a radical difference between the linen fibers that are used for shirting fabric/ and the fibers that are used for jacket/trouser fabric. Can anybody please help me understand this?

Varun Saxena

So I love linens. It’s the best for the weather we have in India. I would like to add a creme and a white colour trouser ( linen) to my wardrobe. However, these coloured pants seem to be kind of translucent. Perhaps that’s not the word but I guess you will get what I mean. The inner lining of side pockets and back pocket show very clearly making wearing the pants weird. Is there a catch? A thicker fabric? What could be done?

Varun Saxena


Varun Saxena

Here at times the sellers term linen fabric not in oz but LEA. So any insights on this unit?


Hi Simon, I had some cream trousers made in a similar weight of Irish linen, but the transparent pocket problem has remained. Is there anything that can be done now the trousers are already made? For example, adding a lining all the way around the upper thigh? Many thanks.


There’s a pocket on one side. Perhaps I could add one on the other side?


Thanks, Simon.


I have a pair of chocolate brown linen trousers from Anglo Italian. The advertised styling is to pair them with dark brown suede loafers and no socks. Could you please advise me on how to pair these trousers with socks and shoes, and in what colour way?
I have been told black leather loafers might go, but what colour of sock should I pair? Similarly, I have been told brown socks and brown shoes is ‘too much brown’.
Help and advice needed,.
Thank you and best regards,


Do linen trousers look good with chambray shirts?
Do you suggest going for 100% linen material shirts or would it wrinkle a lot?


Simon do you consider linen trousers casual or smart casual?
In most offices people are seen wearing shirt and wool trousers.
Would linen trouser be good alternative to wool trousers?


Great post! While I’m a big fan of linen, irish linen seems to be too thightly woven to be breathable for those humid god days (even Mersolair and Lisburn bunches you mentioned in other post). Have no idea where to find some open woven ones. Is there any particular bunch you would recommend? Thanks!


Hi Simon, would different colours of linen shirts and trousers work? For instance, a dark brown linen shirt with sand linen trousers?

Guy Vorapiboonvit


As I live in the tropical country and most of time it s hot and humid all year round.
So I m planning to wear a linen shirt and a linen trouser together.However,As you mention above it s not recommended wearing the same color and texture linen.Therefore I hope you could recommend or be more clarify about this.

Would you recommend to play with the weight of the garment as well as having a slik/linen trouser instead of a pure linen trouser.

Thank you



Any comments regarding Solbiati’s 14 ounces pure linen and 9 ounces linen/wool/silk blend from Time Off collection?

I live in Texas, USA and planning to have may tailor make a Safari jacket using either of the cloth.

I believe both cloth is a good fit for Texas summer. But durability and heavy wear is my concern though since I rarely take off my jacket during work and sit all day long.


Hi Simon, I have noticed that some of my linen jackets and shirts get floppy so quickly, especially around the buttons. I tried pressing hard, but they returned in a few hours. They seem permanent now, which is pretty annoying. Is this something usual for linen products? I have attached a photo for your reference.

Many thanks,