Broadly speaking, I dress in one of three ways during the week. They are defined quite clearly (to simplify the process, as much as anything else) and represent three general levels of smartness.
I know readers will be interested in having these set out, as capsule wardrobes are always popular.
But I’m also aware that all three could represent office wardrobes for some people - whether it’s a case of being smart but not wearing a suit, or of adding subtle touches in an environment where everyone wears T-shirts and trainers.
So this could easily be another ‘Which office are you’ article, and just as helpful. I can expand any of the three into fuller lists of clothing (and sellers) if helpful.
1. Jacketed
During the working week, if I go into town I nearly always wear tailoring.
This is both because it is appropriate - it is what is expected of me, and the impression I want to give - and because I enjoy it. I love my tailoring but the most I’m going to wear it is three days a week; I don’t want to miss the opportunity.
The tailoring is more casual than when I used to work in an office, in the City. It is mostly a jacket and trousers - rather than a suit - and rarely a tie or pocket square. But it is still smarter than 99% of people around me.
I also wear more brown, white and black than when I was in an office, with those three plus shades of grey usually making up my jacket, shirt and trousers. The outfit above with my Pirozzi dupioni is a good example.
However, if you work in an office this could just as easily include business colours, most obviously as navy. As set out in the five jackets article, a navy, oatmeal and grey jacket would go a long way. Combined with some of the five smart trousers and your regular shirts.
Top: Shirt, or at the most a collared knit
Bottom: Flannels, cords, high twist wools
Outer: Sports jacket
Shoe: Leather or suede, tending towards smarter styles
2. Casual chic
This is a step down in smartness. Usually worn during the working week when I’m not in town (central London).
I mentioned during discussions about dressing during lockdown that wearing a shirt makes me feel like I’m at work, and should be working. It’s a motivational thing: I just never work the same in shorts and a sweatshirt.
This second category is in that mould. It is smart, but it’s not tailoring. The top is collared, but the trousers are not jeans. It is the area of menswear that I’ve referred to as ‘casual chic’ and I think has the most potential for the modern man - but in many ways is the hardest to do.
Why? Because it depends so much on subtleties. It’s less about wearing a jacket or not and more about wearing smart chinos rather than workwear ones, or wearing a knitted polo shirt rather than regular piqué.
The item I reach for most often here is my Rubato chinos. A pair of those, plus a shirt or smartish sweater (like the Cashmere Rugby) and a pair of suede or cordovan loafers, and I’m done.
The smartest I’d go with trousers is flannels, but it’s usually chinos or cords; the most casual I’d go is ecru jeans. Outerwear could be a suede blouson or a long raglan.
This category can also step up or down sometimes. It is, for example, what I might wear into town if I didn’t have any appointments. And it’s what I would wear to something smarter at the weekend, like a friend’s birthday party.
Top: Casual shirt (oxford, chambray, denim) or smart polo
Bottom: Smart chino or cord, occasionally flannel or white jean
Outer: Cashmere knit, blouson, raglan coat
Shoe: Loafer or boot, suede or cordovan
3. Workwear and sportswear
This defines my weekend. There might be the occasional exception or simple laziness, but this is how I usually think when I get up on a Saturday morning.
Trousers: workwear chinos or jeans. Top: T-shirt or oxford shirt, maybe a chambray. Shoes default to tennis shoes, a canvas trainer, though with the occasional loafer too, as we’ll discuss in a moment.
This is where my Real McCoy’s sweatshirts live, my beloved old Armoury chinos, my vintage outerwear and leather jackets.
It’s obviously casual, but it’s also heavily influenced by the Ivy take on sportswear - by old, more considered sportswear. And by smarter takes on workwear too.
In practice this means I’m often working slightly smarter elements into the outfit. For example if it’s a sweatshirt and chinos, I might wear cordovan loafers instead of tennis shoes. Just to keep things interesting - to avoid everything sinking to the lowest common denominator.
Another example: an oxford under the sweatshirt rather than a T-shirt. Or with a T-shirt and jeans, perhaps a luxurious-looking suede bomber rather than a vintage varsity jacket. Both are beautiful, but in very different ways.
This third category is something I’d suggest to a reader whose office is a sea of big T-shirts and Air Jordans. Try just tweaking one thing: old trainers, but with a blue oxford shirt; a T-shirt, but with Alden penny loafers; or a shetland rather than a sweatshirt.
One step of elevation, but no more. Otherwise it looks like you’re looking down on everyone.
Top: T-shirt, oxford, denim
Bottom: Jeans, fatigues, workwear chinos
Outer: Sweatshirt, shetland, vintage military
Shoe: Canvas trainer, suede or cordovan loafer/boot
With all three capsules, there will of course be exceptions. I still wear a suit; I still wear a tie. Sometimes I wear jeans with jacket, or workwear into town. But they are specific exceptions with specific reasons - these three are the starting point, default.
Here are some more images by way of illustration. But please, please read the text as well - otherwise like the piece on My Ivy, half the comments will be misunderstandings. These are merely intended to illustrate what is set out above.
Jacketed:
Casual chic:
Sportswear and workwear:
Dear Simon,
What a great article! This comes just at the time that the often repeated New Normal is coming into play. My Office habits have changed completely and thus, I believe, the “casual chic” will be what I will be aiming for. Even though I love my suits, opportunities to wear them are getting more scarcer.
Cheers!
Nice to hear it PF. As mentioned, happy to expand that category into more recommendations, though of course as linked in the piece, there have also been articles in the past on that form of dressing.
Lovely stuff, Simon. I tend to fall into a similar pattern: Casual chic if I have a lot of in person tutoring, workwear but with an Oxford or knitted polo if it’s mostly online and generally some little twist to lift my look above the absolute basic even if I’m not working.
Sadly, I rarely get to wear tailoring these days, a trip to the theatre or a decent restaurant maybe (not just Pizza Express with the kids!)
I’m definitely on the lookout for casual blazers/sports coats (linen, hopsack, flannel, canvas etc. Tweed even) I guess a sort of inversion of casual chic: giving my appearance the boost that comes from a tailored jacket but something I can wear out with the kids and not look overdressed/worry about it getting ruined!
Thanks Tommy. Interesting on the last point. So I guess jackets that can be worn with jeans or workwear chinos?
Yes, definitely. Relaxed Ivy casual feel!
OK great, and yes nicely put. Of course, lots on the site over the years about jackets with jeans, and examples, but harder I think with workwear chinos
Cord jackets? Took the plunge this year got one in brown. I have found it really flexible – works well with jeans, most chinos and workwear but also with flannels.
Yes, cord can be great – I’ll be posting more about them soon actually.
Rather like tweed, I find the challenge with wearing it with chinos is avoiding the slightly old-fashioned, slightly fuddy duddy or academic look that you don’t really get with jeans.
I’m very tempted to dig out my old cord jacket from the dark recesses of my wardrobe. It’s just a pity it is quite a pale shade.
I still have patches on my tweed jackets.
Yes, I am a history teacher so perhaps I lean into that a little. That being said, I think the cut can help. Soft shoulders, 3 roll 2 and a slightly higher gorge can help avoid that fuddy feel to some extent. Elbow pads are obviously out!!
Absolutely, that makes a big difference. Also things like wearing the collar up sometimes, perhaps unbuttoned more, using the pockets of the jacket etc. And what they’re worn with, eg maybe a western shirt or a colourful knit
Yes, I think with a jacket and chinos, I’d stick to knits or very casual shirts like chambray, never something even as formal as an Oxford. (Unless I find myself teaching in the classroom again!)
Also, I figure never blue blazers or mid-beige/grey chinos to avoid the preppy business-casual look. Brown, olive or (dark) grey up top, olive, brown, stone or even black chinos below: those ever-wearable cold colours once again!
Thanks for all the pointers everyone, I’ll bear them in mind!
For a reason I don’t know, I struggle to pair chinos with jackets. I always feel the result is awkward. I love pairing Harris Tweed with jeans, but I don’t feel it work with chinos, for instance. The only exception might be with Hopsack jackets. I manage to decently pair a navy blue one with olive or stone chinos, or an oatmeal Hopsack with navy or dark brown chinos. Other than that, I prefer to combine chinos with denim shirts with or without knitwear (ideally with a chunky shawl collar cardigan).
Such a good point. I find exactly the same. This seems to be something to do with the garment washed nature of the cotton, since ecru chinos look so much less satisfying with my wool jackets than ecru denim or ecru wool options. I recently tried some denim-style cottons and basketweave cottons that had none of these issues, so I think it is a particular thing about the subtype of cotton (and maybe it’s flat, washed-out relaxed sense) rather than “all cotton”
Casual chic, and entirely because of PS, is now my usual wear – elevated from my lockdown work and sportswear. Again, I’m finding it successful to incorporate both black knitwear and my (over) large collection of shirts. As you say, the step up or down makes it so flexible.
Smart chinos are rapidly becoming the Swiss Army knife of mens’ clothing.
Nice to hear Peter
In the first casual chic article, you quoted the importance of seeing each item separately and moving them around as needed.
Could you do more on this, Simon? I think it’s one of the key ideas and I still struggle with this.
Sure Peter, can do
Hi Simon,
Agree – great article.
That blue suede jacket is fantastic. May I ask where it’s from?
Cheers MM. It’s Ralph Lauren Purple Label – the cut is great as it’s shorter and wider, not too dissimilar to our Harrington. More shots of the blue suede here
Thanks Simon – sadly not in their current collection. I thought it might be your new PWVC reversible suede blouson…
No, sorry…
Really enjoyable read. I wonder how you’d conceive of your approach to dressing for the evening, and whether variations on categories 1 and 2 would be the ballpark? I personally find it easiest to wear tailoring and suits at night these days – something to do with the clear ‘pleasure’ rather than ‘business’ context, and maybe even a social expectation now that it’s more expected to dress up a bit for a restaurant or party than for work.
Yes, very true Peter, event dressing is the way forward in that regard. It’s a lot easier when you’re creating your own propriety, if that makes sense.
I would wear a smart version of Chic Casual, or a be jacketed. Even with the first, it’s amazing how much smarter and put together you look at a nice dinner when you wear a nice collared knit and tailored trousers.
Dear Simon
Would it be acceptable to wear a bottle green cardigan with a blue oxford and cream chinos? If so, what footwear would you recommend? Thanks
That sounds nice Phil. Were there any specific concerns you had?
I’d wear a nice loafer – probably brown leather or suede, or color 8 cordovan. A boot would be nice too
This seems quite close to what I find myself wearing (no doubt influenced by years of reading PS), though more jacketed looks and fewer non-ecru jeans even for the casual outfits. Not having a house, nor children, reduces the need for durable workwear quite a bit.
I’d say the “cold color capsule” might be the best article on PS, simply because the color schemes there makes for so many outfits that are clearly stylish but do not feel corporate or stuffy. While soft tweed jackets in brown, cream flannel trousers and brown suede shoes will most likely be smarter than most people around you, it’s hard to accuse it of being “dressed up”, and as long as the cut and silhouette is flattering it probably won’t look overly stuffy.
Nicely put Sam. That article is here, by the way, in case anyone hasn’t seen it and wants to
“One step of elevation, but no more. Otherwise it looks like you’re looking down on everyone.”
Are you sure about that sentence? I doubt anyone would think that. Wearing a suit to a barbecue is one thing, but a shirt and loafers? It really doesn’t feel like too much.
Otherwise, great article!
Thanks Karol.
Perhaps a shirt and loafers is just one step up, it depends on what others are wearing too I guess. My point really is to contra those purists who would say you should just wear what you like, regardless of the context, and would turn up to something like that in a seersucker suit!
its interesting how everyone gets to dress as (badly as) they like, but if you dress as you like with a suit you are the one committing the crime
True. It’s not just the casualisation but also very much the democratisation of clothing. The negative side of that means reverting to the lowest common denominator
hi Simon, very helpful article: like the 3 outfits in the reader profiles, but with the categories more defined. My wardrobes are (a) suit in wool gabardine, cotton, linen or flannel usually in non-businessy colors for days when I have meetings (b) similar to your jacketed for workdays when I don’t have importants meetings and when I go into the city at the weekend, and (c) sliding scale of your casual chic to sportswear for the weekend when I’m not in the city.
Workwear is the one area that I haven’t been able to successfully incorporate into my wardrobe, apart from jeans which I suppose one can’t really call workwear anymore. I’ve tried a number of times but workwear chinos, sweatshirts, work boots are all part of an aesthetic that doesn’t feel like me and I’ve decided to drop it for now.
That sounds eminently sensible Andrew. It’s not for everyone, and you’ve been honing your eye for long enough probably to recognise when something isn’t your character
I found the latest article on Die Workwear very useful for helping me to think about and explain why I like some of the looks I like, and why I don’t like others.
I am sure most readers have seen it but if not it’s worth a read: https://dieworkwear.com/2022/08/26/how-to-develop-good-taste-pt-1/
The tip at the end of the article on starting with an aesthetic I found particularly helpful: workwear really isn’t an aesthetic that I am drawn to or relate to. I think for that reason it always felt quite forced whenever I tried to wear it, and after enough experiments that didn’t work I decided to leave it to other people who do it much better.
Thanks Andrew. Yes, as ever, Derek’s writing is fantastic. I found it reassuring that some of the recommendations at the end echoed things we’ve discussed before, eg:
– starting within one aesthetic (discussed with casual clothing in particular, and starting within one paradigm)
– generally dressing in a definition of style we discussed here
Really good piece, Simon, and I think you’re spot on about the interplay between the three. I work in book publishing and my own office/industry is an interesting mix of all three of these paradigms.
Tailoring – as in a top-to-toe smart outfit – seems to be reserved mainly for events; for a meeting most men just throw a jacket on over their Oxford and casual chinos. If you wear a sports jacket “just” to the office it tends to draw comments; not negative ones but it’s noticed. In fact, just wearing tailored trousers stands out!
I like dressing smart/making an effort – especially since such a prolonged period of working from home – but don’t want to look too incongruous (I also simply don’t have enough jackets to wear them each time I’m in!). So it’s about finding a balance: I’ll wear tailoring if I have an event or external meeting, but I think you’re absolutely right about casual chic offering so much potential, and it’s roughly the look I’ll tend to aim for most days. Though I’m still “learning” it and maybe often end up somewhere between the two more casual looks – which is probably the worst of both worlds!
On the Rubato chinos: I’ve been considering a pair ever since you first reviewed them, as I’m lacking a versatile smart chino. But of course you had them slimmed, something I’m unlikely to do. Do you still recommend them to people who would keep them as they come?
Interesting, thanks Joe. There are so many little ways to tweak these things to suit your environment – eg if tailored trousers are quite smart, wear them with a collared knit rather than a work shirt perhaps. Or in more casual materials or colours.
On the chinos, yes absolutely. If the wider leg is your style, they’re great too. And of course you can always wear them like that for a while and then taper them later if you feel like it.
Yes, I think those tweaks are where some of the interest can lie. For instance this evening I’m going to the leaving drinks of a much-liked and senior former colleague: I plan to wear a Drake’s jacket that’s mainly earth tones, with small navy and dark green checks; a brown Anglo polo; Drake’s ecru jeans; and brown suede Alden chukkas. The jeans are probably what will stand out to people in the context (not many white jeans in publishing) rather than the jacket, but hopefully they and the polo make it casual enough that the whole doesn’t shout too much. We’ll see!
Have you ever posted the measurements you tapered your Rubato chinos to? Everyone’s different of course, but I’m sure there are a fair few PS readers (like me) who are similar enough in size to you that it could be useful. Feel free to direct me to a post if you already have!
Yes, it’s in the top of the original post on them, here
I believe the hem width in the original post is incorrect. Should read that the hem was reduced from 22.5cm (not 20.5) as correctly described in this post https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/04/mohair-cardigans-and-rubato-chinos.html.
Hope I got that right?
Yes you’re right, thanks Malcolm! I’ll update that first post
Somewhat ironically, a well-cut bog standard worsted wool suit fits all three categories. One can simply dress it up (with a tie) or down (with jeans). Anecdotally speaking, one would fetch a lot more attention in any of the above outfits posted by Simon as compared to even a chalk stripe structured 2-piece suit with peak lapels. Unfortunately, hardly anyone (except us aficionados) wears tweed/silk sports jackets anymore and therefore it is harder to blend-in. For a more visual interpretation, see Daniel Craig’s wardrobe in Layer Cake.
RK
Thanks RK. I personally wouldn’t wear a worsted wool suit jacket with jeans – it looks too much like it’s missing the trousers. The two are too far apart in terms of smartness.
And the second category is kind of defined by dressing smartly without a jacket. I can see how in many workplaces the more unusual combinations here might stand out more than a suit, but I know for many readers, wearing a suit at all just looks too out of place today. You are immediately asked if you’re going to a meeting or for a job interview.
100% agree. When I wear a suit (and/or tie), I get immediately asked whether I have a court hearing that day (and I do the same with others, I have to admit).
Yes that’s exactly the question I get, even when I wear a suit with loafers and a polo shirt. I usually reply with something like “What’s the point of owning a nice suit if you never wear it?”
I work in IT, in a company that emphasises they have “no dress code”, and I have gotten one or two comments at the beginning, but now the people are used to the fact that I might come to the office in a full suit, jeans and a t shirt, or anything in between. I think if you never do it and one day appear in one, people will comment on it because it’s something new. But other than that people do not care that much about what you wear (at least here in Denmark).
We even have a company photoshoot coming up and we were encouraged to wear what we wear everyday, instead of trying to make everyone look the same.
Simon,
A timely article. In the Casual chic category, would the Civilman trousers mentioned here work?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/10/autumn-winter-top-10-wax-ivy-and-secateurs.html
I have a pair in taupe.
Richard
Yes I should think so. I haven’t found I wore mine as much as I thought I would, but I have the white and it is quite a bright white
Another most helpful article Simon, particularly for me at the start of my style journey. Thank you.
Simon,
Thanks for this timely article.
For the last year, I have been overhauling my wardrobe. Ex corporate, I no longer needed the dozen suits and other tailored clothing.
It just so happened that my wardrobe as evolved to exactly what you described: chinos and Luca Avitable shirts during the week, jeans and a sweatshirt on the weekend, and for evenings out … grey slacks and a blazer. Easy.
Now, not only is my wardrobe an order of magnitude smaller, I’ve been able to upgrade the quality across the board.
It’s refreshing to hear that it is all worthwhile!
My only remaining struggle is knitwear for the chinos. Any thoughts on turtleneck vs. crew? I’m thinking of a dark navy cashmere ribbed fisherman’s sweater but can’t decide on the collar. Any thoughts?
Nice. On the knit, I’d suggest a crewneck, usually worn over a shirt or polo shirt. A turtle neck can be a little restrictive in terms of weather and looking good on its own.
It would be lovely to have a covering of brands in the ‘casual chic’ theme, as I find it the most difficult to shop for. Maybe there are already articles on PS Simon ?
Thanks
There are some very specific ones mentioned in the first article on casual chic, PA.
Maybe have a look through that and then let me know, here or there, what gaps you have?
I believe this is one of your best piece yet regarding how to dress depending on formality. It allows one to have a better grasp on the whole spectrum from smart to casual with interlinks between each category to better modulate the level of formality hence accomodate to the best our personnal work life.
Thanks Johan, that’s lovely to hear.
I presume you’ve read the sliding scale one? That’s probably the most popular ever on the subject
Indeed Simon, i have read both that one and the one on colour combinations which are very much cartesian in nature, almost scientific the way you treated them. I do believe that to grasp a better idea of subjectif elements like clothing styles and their in-between, “bouquets” of lookbook photos with few or any words at all, like you have done here, are much more suited.
Do you think so Johan? It’s interesting, I feel quite strongly that you need both. Partly because there is such a surfeit of imagery out there, and so little good writing. And partly because I see people all the time look at imagery and take different things from it. I think there’s a lot to be learnt from the way such things are spelt out in women’s magazines for example
Dear Simon,
a very interesting article.
It’s no different for me, although as a lawyer I also regularly wear a more formal suit and tie when I have hearings or meet rather conservative clients (but not for a regular day in the office).
Most interesting is your statement that you should not dress two categories up from everybody around you. I think this holds true but is sometimes difficult when you do not know how everybody else will be dressed (e.g. a banker turning up in jeans and a white polo).
Everything is in flux right now and the new normal has not yet been established, I believe. I can see this in my own wardrobe where until ten years ago I had around 10 suits (grey, anthrazit and black) and now I feel I barely need three.
Kind regards
Yes true, good point Markus. I guess it’s inevitable there will be those kind of mismatches, at least for a while
Another great article with nice fotos too. In my opinion the jacketed style is your style. You have many many great bespoke things and you are experienced enough to combine them like very few. The casual chick style is the most interesting one since you can drive it up and down but i understand what you mean that its difficult. The sportswear is for me where the style just doesnt look so fine. I respect ivy roots but to be honest in this category its more important to me how the person phisycaly looks( hight, age, body condition etc). I have seen guys rock the sport style but more because they were people who do a lot of sports for years, noone fat, short, old would look so good in this category.
Great piece Simon! This is the first I’ve noted you mention owning Real McCoy’s sweatshirts. Would you mind elaborating on what you enjoy about them and what separates them from others (e.g. your Merz Schwanen)? I’m aware of the great quality as I have some of their tees and a few items en route, but have yet to try their sweats.
I’ve mentioned it a few times Paul, but never done anything dedicated on them.
Compared to Merz they are a similar construction but simply finer ingredients, which is reflected in the price as well. I also fine they have aged better and not lost any shape (though they do all shrink a little vertically, which the staff are very clear about). There’s a little on that in my interview with the Real McCoy’s here – eg the points about making their machinery for different sizes.
Hi Simon, can i ask which of the Real McCoy’s sweatshirts you wear. There are so many different varieties on line!
I know, it’s a maze. This is the heavier Ball Park model, which is also a little shorter. The others are mostly divided by being 9 or 10oz. The latter is more the standard weight, and has the napping on the back, which makes it warmer. Those two things make the 9oz noticeably cooler
I always find these pieces so thought provoking or a place from which to draw inspiration. Or something with which I identify or refine my own tastes. Interestingly, I found this only thought provoking, but oddly alienating. Going to try and articulate why as I think you might find it interesting.
Firstly the matter of personal taste… I find the kind of Rubato flavoured ‘casual chic’ particularly hard to pull off as you identified it being. I think it’s so particularly dependent on the fit. The muted tones and stylings are only chic if everything fits perfectly and there’s no veneer of dressiness, style and/or ruggedness to hide behind if it doesn’t. You wind up looking like a golfer or a chartered accountant on casual friday if you get the fit part wrong. Still for me and my tastes, I avoid the casual chic category because it seems neither here nor there. I like combining modes of formality in a way that subverts something or if not doing that, then just being sincerely being quite smart, or quite casual. This form of casual chic always seems to be somewhat on the fence, like I’d always be overdressed or underdressed but never quite right. Maybe it’s an age thing. I’m 28 and look at those outfits and have absolutely no idea where I’d be going dressed like that. Perhaps that will become clearer as I get older and I get invited to things other than the pub.
Secondly and I guess this is basically taste too, as it’s all personal isn’t it, but I find how I dress is almost always opposite to your functional categorisations. I’m sat in my office in Victoria writing this, wearing blue jeans, white canvas trainers, a white t-shirt and a blue chore. I could stand to be smarter for work, but because I dislike my job, work flexibly, care very little about my colleagues but would generally prefer their opinions about me not to be too strong, that I feel least inclined to put effort into my clothing on days that I go in. I reach for something easy, functional and unassuming. Clothing that is hard to project assumptions or preconceptions onto. Flying in the face of your categorizing, I often get smarter after work. I’ll take off the trainers and put on suede boots, remove the chore and add a sports jacket and then head out for the evening.
Lastly, I find that a jacket is more versatile than you’re giving it credit for. Yes, fewer people wear them nowadays. But I venture that it’s this: fewer people wear them well. Broadly, the men interested in clothing shop at Mr Porter and End and are largely wearing streetwear and workwear. But there’s still no shortage of men wearing ill-fitted suit jackets with baggy blue jeans and shiny black lace up shoes still out there wreaking havoc on good taste. There’s still also legions of men wearing Drake’s Games Jacket-esque jackets out there in london, worn ironically with joggers etc or earnestly with chinos. When I get into a nice sports jacket worn in a vast number of ways, I don’t feel totally overdressed. Usually because I’d be doing something to subvert it. A western belt and RM Williams boots. A t-shirt and jeans. High waisted, wide legged trousers (casaatlantic or civilman trousers). It feels dressy and tasteful but also a bit subversive. All the more so now there are more guys wearing plastic sliders and white-socks out in soho on a friday night. Without sounding too much like a delusion of grandeur, I genuinely feel like I’m doing my bit for menswear by not kowtowing to the prevailing consensus that the closer to loungewear you are the better. When I was in my early 20s, most of the sartorial decisions I made were based on what I saw people wearing in public. The more people wearing sports jackets well, the more people will.
Apologies! I started this as simply a comment and sharing a personal response and it became something of a manifesto
Not at all Jackson, I think it’s really interesting.
I’d suggest that perhaps the key thing is the point about work. People find these kinds of categories particularly useful in changing professional environments – that’s often the area where they need the most advice, as frankly they can wear whatever they want in their spare time, and it’s often the hardest to navigate because things have changed so much.
You clearly aren’t in a job where any of that is important, and in your leisure time you are inclined to mix things up more than perhaps some other readers would, and indeed as you say perhaps some older ones would as well. But in any case there is always more variation there between people and their tastes.
I’m fairly conservative in my dressing, always have been, and I think there’s a fairly close parallel between what I enjoy wearing and what fits into these different ways of dressing in an office these days. But there won’t be with many people, and it doesn’t sound like there is with you.
That might also reflect on your points about Rubato as well – it is the small things that matter there, absolutely. But that’s often the pleasure of it, of there being no obvious thing to point to other than quality and fit. That’s something that I think a lot of readers enjoyed with suits and ties, and is carried across into more casual clothing like this.
Thanks for stimulating those thoughts!
The pity is that even though suits are rarely worn today the present style of suit exemplified by yourself with soft shoulders,SB and slim trousers with no break is my favorite of all it’s iterations.
Very interesting, and I share many of the views in this article. I would just add that seasons play a role in this game: casual/sport is much easier to manage over summer with a pair of loafers worn bare foot to soften anything too casual. A serious French newspaper published a long article few days ago which title was : “Are loafers the new sneakers?”. And I would just add that in winter, I wear a lot of cashmere turtlenecks, which ultimately play the same role than loafers in summer: they look smarter than a hoodie with a jean, and more casual than a shirt with a jacket. But you need to be highly selective as the wrong fabric and style will convert a turtleneck into a real “faux-pas”…
Interesting, thanks Eric.
I find I enjoy the casual/sport just as much in winter – boots instead of loafers, chunky socks, big sweats, leathers or down parkas or a M65 over the top. But I guess as with any category, winter involves more ‘things’, and perhaps more things to think about as well as a result.
Hi Eric,
I’d be interested in reading the article if it is online, do you have a link?
For me loafers are definitely the sneakers of other people; I only own a pair of Adidas Barricades which I don’t wear outside the tennis court, so in summer it’s loafers with everything, and in fall/winter those are replaced by Chelsea boots.
Hi Simon, with so many of your readers no longer in a daily environment to wear 1. Jacketed. Do you have any advice on how can wipe the dust off what were, our very versatile dark brown oxfords?
Very nice post and great pics.
Hmm, good question.
How about wearing them with a pair of mid-grey flannels, a shirt and a nice crewneck? That would just about be smart enough for the shoes, especially if it were a white shirt, a cashmere knit etc. Then a nice DB overcoat over the top
Nice suggestion, thank you Simon. Looking back (2008 to 2018), rotating a dark brown and black Edward Green Piccadilly, would have been close enough in formality as brown oxfords. And they slot in nicely for today’s modern man 2. Casual chic
Perhaps the Oxford, worn more casually, requires the influence of fashion.
Yes, that would certainly help. It did wonders for chunky brogues
A very helpful piece. But I am still struggeling to unterstand the difference between a category 2 and 3 chino. Is it the colour that sets them apart, or the cut, or the fabric? Could you elaborate, please?
Thanks
Manuel
Mostly the fabric – heavier, coarser, less smooth, less sharp. One looks like it would like to be fairly smart, sharp, be in an office. The other looks like it’s made for walking the woods and falling off a boulder.
There are specific discussions in these pieces:
– Rubato chinos and levels of chino
– Real McCoys chino and things like right/left twill
– Bespoke cottons/chinos and what separates them
Simon, even though this approach is embedded in your other articles, I found this one in particular very useful. Nice to have it laid out so crisply and clearly! One question: what are your ‘Outer’ layer equivalents for summer? I know for Outfit 1, it is linen, silk-wool-linen mixes, etc. But what about Outfits 2 & 3? (This was something I struggled with this summer.) Thanks again.
Good question. I’d say for number two it’s a linen overshirt or linen Harrington. Examples of both if you have a search on PS. And the latter it’s something like a vintage jungle jacket. Again, you’ll find the piece with a search.
A very good article. Interestingly the office where I work (in the City), has just sent out a e-mail to say that staff thinking they can keep wearing trainers (with their suits), can’t. We are, in effect, back to 2019 dress standards (without the ties). I feel a lot of financial services companies are pulling back on relaxed dress codes. I remember this happening before after the 2001 dot com bubble and relaxed dress in offices.
As always, great article, Simon. This article answered the question I asked you yesterday.
So, I guess I need to wear more casual chic. I would wear the raglan coat for winter, but in the autumn or spring, would casual jackets such as Drake’s games blazer in corduroy or The Anthology’s lazy-man jacket work?
Many thanks,
Jack
Both are great casual pieces Jack, yes. Not quite the same aesthetic as I’m describing here – it’s just a slightly less elegant, more playful look, but still great
Thanks, Simon.
Do you think wearing too formally to informal settings could be similarly inappropriate as wearing informally for formal settings?
For instance, a college student wears number one (jacketed) to lectures while the others wear number three (workwear/sportswear) hoodies/sweatshirts with Air Jordans. And a company’s manager wears number three (workwear/sportswear) while other colleagues wear number one(jacketed).
It could certainly happen both ways round Jack, though the difference is more likely to be the type of reaction – one you might be seen as lazy or less professional, the other like you’re showing off perhaps, or better than other people
Hi Simon
I’m somewhat confused by the title of this article.
Surely outfits don’t define your week? I would have thought your week defines, or determines, your outfits?
Maybe I am being overly simplistic, but what you are doing determines your choice of clothes. You seem to be saying something opposite.
If I’m gong somewhere smartish, I chose smartish stuff to wear, and so on.
So your activity defines your outfits.
I think you’re maybe reading a little bit too much into it Ian. Yes, the activities determine the clothes, certainly. But the three wardrobes define my style during a normal week.
This is an excellent and very helpful article. To me, there is a common theme throughout tour categories and choices…simplicity. I’m old enough now to realize, after many sartorial mistakes, the truth of Cary Grant’s statement that simplicity was the essence of good taste. As result, PS articles like this are very useful to read and reread as they help me fully incorporate the simplicity principle and enjoy the process.
is there a reason that in category 1 you say you aren’t wearing pocket squares and yet every photo with a jacket to illustrate has a pocket square?
whilst I know the answer it would still be great if an article could cover the trouser options (eg flannel) for those of us where £200 is a stretch target
For more on pocket squares see article here Bob. I wear them a lot less, but I guess more for shoots etc
On trouser options, we have an article by Manish coming soon, though they will generally be at the higher end on price, just because that’s what we cover. Unfortunately we can’t do it all
I appreciate that and that your own suit supply days are now long behind you… not all of us have moved on though.
Thanks to everyone else for the suggestions. SuitSupply I find wear out very quickly but will look at some of the other ideas
With trousers Bob, I think you can go a long way by knowing what cut you like and picking better materials. Eg if you go to suit supply and get a heavier, denser wool then they’d normally offer, they’ll last better, and if you don’t have them cut as tight as they might do as standard
I have a pair of flannel trousers from Spier and MacKay that I am quite happy with. They currently cost around CDN $178.
yeossal (benefits is mtm, but they have rtw too). natalino (if you’re built like a matchstick). and I guess spier and suitsupply. (I’m not sure if spier high rise is actually high rise, I have slim shorts and they seem normal or even low rise, but I’m about to order a contemporary pair to see if that will help). unless I want to match trousers to jacket, I’d always order trousers and long sleeve polos from yeossal. shoes, maybe, and I haven’t tried other things.
and if you’re on super budget, can’t beat tk max (but there you trade time spent looking for stuff for money). Ralph Lauren chinos, Lewis jeans, sometimes brooks brothers chinos.
@Bob: I also do not like to go beyond EUR 200. The best trousers for me that I have discovered in this price range are Cavour (on 50 percent sale) and PT Torino (also on sale), which are quite often with these two brands. If you like the style also Pini Parma and indeed Suitsupply are not bad.
Dear Simon
In a previous fairly ancient article, you suggested not to combine a white oxford with jeans and a blazer due to the wrong level of formality.
Have your thoughts evolved on this, and is a white oxford excluded from category 3 (including the PS Oxford which hopefully will return to stock soon!)?
No Alex, I still would say that’s a dangerous combination – chances are the jacket and shirt will look too smart for the jeans. I’d prefer a blue oxford or chambray shirt, perhaps a woolier jacket. As here.
And no, a white oxford could definitely be worn in section three. That’s what I’m wearing in the illustration at the bottom of that section – from this post
Here with my two cents again.
I quite often play with “the levels of formality”, but there’s a slight tightrope walk here; you have to make it clear enough that it’s intentional, but subtle enough not to break the whole ensemble.
I’d wear a solid coloured flannel shirt with suit and tie for example to add little sartorial mischief, but plaid one would be way too much. Then again white oxford in certain instances could be little too close to more informal shirts and might be seen as a mishap more than considered choice.
Do call me out if I’m flagrantly wrong.
casual chic is what I am aiming and interested in with a further interest in Japanese style workwear for weekends. Although I could wear my tailored jackets to work, no one else wears them making it a bit harder. I’m thinking brands like Stoffa, and making tailoring materials into casual jackets. I have a field jacket in very dark brown flannel (similar to your char brown fox flannel) from Loro piana which I find works with grey trousers as well as navy, tan and olive chinos.
Simon,
Great article (and outfits). Can I ask where the grey skipper collar knit is from?
Alan
Sure Alan, it’s from Stoffa. Have a search or select them from the Brands list in the menu, and you’ll see it
Hi Simon,
A good read, thank you. I haven’t been a PS reader for that long, but I have certainly enjoyed observing the evolution of your personal style, and how it got you to this point. I have undergone a similar personal journey in a small way, no doubt inspired by what I read here.
May I ask an entirely unrelated question: how do you look after your flannels? My understanding is that no flannel is machine washable, and for me that has always been a deal-breaker (my trousers seem to get dirtier than everything else, and in my belief there’s no substitute for passing water through the fibres, no matter what they say about dry cleaning – a process I distinctly dislike). Otherwise, I’d love a pair of dark greys for regular use. Grey chinos aren’t quite right somehow.
Best,
Jonathan
Hey Jonathan,
I press mine every few wears, and if they felt they needed more, I’d steam them hanging up. Both make a big difference. I then dry clean once a year at the most.
It sounds like you should try steaming a bit more – especially with wool
Hi Simon – is pressing something you do at home (with an iron), or can you take to London dry cleaners and ask for wool trousers to be pressed? Sorry if this is a stupid question. Try to look after my new flannels
Pressing is what I do at home, with an iron yes. Not a high heat, but plenty of steam and (at least until you know how the iron will perform) a tea towel or similar under the iron
Simon, I see you have tucked in the white t shirt in the top picture. Is that a knitted t shirt and is there a rule of thumb re tucking in or not?
I’ve written about it in a separate article Andrew – look up ‘tucked-in T-shirt’
In fact given the number of times that’s the case, might be always worth a search when you have a question about a type of clothing or way of wearing
Just wondering how work short sleeve polos into category 3? Would you every wear a short sleeve polo on its own with jeans or workwear chinos when the weather is warm? Is a fully fashioned cotton or wool polo too smart?
Personally I think so, yes. But that is quite personal when it comes to category 3 – regular polo shirts certainly belong there rather than anywhere else.
Fashioned polos I’d wear in category 2, and nicer cotton pique ones I wear in 2 as well, but really only as a layer under a knit
Thanks, Simon! This is a really helpful and practical post. I think one of the things I struggle with most when trying to dress well is how to balance that will real life. I want to look sharp, but I don’t want to wear a suit to my son’s soccer practice. I appreciate the options presented here. Could you give your opinion on what makes chinos smart vs workwear? What features do you think separate the two? Thanks, as always!
Cheers Drew, pleased this helps a bit.
A reader actually asked about this in the comments above – and I liked to two previous articles where that’s discussed. It’s basically the material though – some are finer, smoother, others are coarser, more rugged
Hi Simon, Thanks for the response! I happened to see that other comment after I sent mine. Sorry for the redundancy!
No worries man
Hey Simon, a question completely unrelated to the article:
I’ve been wanting to make an overcoat in heavy cashmere for a long time, and today my tailor showed me a possible fabric: a very heavy (over 700g) cashmere that was surprisingly affordable (for being heavy cashmere). However, on closer inspection of the bunch, it turned out the fabric sample is two thinner pieces of cashmere layered and sewn together. Is this common? It’s listed as 750g, and only careful inspection showed that it wasn’t a solid, thickly woven fabric but two thinner pieces laminated.
Is this an established practice for fabrics this heavy? Would it effect the quality of the fabric. Especially considering the fairly low cost of the fabric, I’m obviously a bit worried I’d be getting an inferior product.
Well Sam, there are perfectly legitimate reasons for doing that – to create a form of double-faced fabric, for example, with something different on both sides. But if that doesn’t look like it’s the reason, then I would be worried.
If you end if you’re having a coat made for you, I wouldn’t take a risk on the material. Get it from a supplier you know, even if that means going for wool rather than cashmere. The downside of having a well-made coat in a poor material is too great
That fabric bunch does have a lot of double-faced fabrics (some interesting but mostly useless ones, like purple-cream). This particular one was the same color on both sides, but I suppose you could get a shinier material on both sides of the fabric by laminating instead of weaving a thicker fabric. I’ll have to think of it for a few days, and maybe look up the details on that particular mill.
I already have a back-up in mind, a thick, fluffy camel hair from Standeven. Thanks for your input!
Oh good. Again if in doubt, I’d go for the safe option, which may well by the Standeven
This is a fantastic article and just so useful. Expanding on how to blend from one to the other is also useful. I suspect many readers now wear tailoring/jacketing options in evenings alone. What are the white trousers shown with the brown jacket and grey polo? Are those the officer chinos? Looks a great mix of casual chic and jacketed
Thanks Freddie. No, those are an old pair of trousers P Johnson made for me
This is brilliant – seems a successful example of cotton trousers that nonetheless work beautifully with a jacket. (Avoiding the worry about flannel or cavalry twill wools being a little too formal) Thank you Simon
In which category would you put the casatlantic el jadida?
Depends a bit on the material and what it’s worn with, but mostly in the middle category
You illustrated the three styles quite helpfully here, Simon. At dinner a friend said her husband had trouble assembling a capsule wardrobe for a business trip to Japan. He works at Facebook and isn’t particularly verbal. The photos here are just the ticket, I think.
That’s lovely to hear, thank you
With jackets like the brown leather one three pictures up, do you find you have to buy them a size larger in order to fit over a sweatshirt? Getting fit right appears to be a fairly precise art, so I find that a jacket that fits me well over a sweatshirt or jumper will look too big if I only wear a t-shirt or single thin layer.
I don’t, but I think that’s because my preferences for outerwear like this have shifted a bit in the past 10 years, to the point where I don’t want anything fitting tight in the torso. I think it’s more flattering, and perhaps more current too. I’d still want a blouson style like that to be tight in the ribbing at the waist – or a belted raincoat to be cinched there for shape – but I don’t want it tight elsewhere. As a result, even with a T-shirt underneath, it’s the shape I want.
That leather jacket from Chapal actually illustrates this quite well, because it is fairly old, and could do with being a little larger. Fortunately the style is big enough that it still works. There is a dedicated post on it here.
Hey Simon, sorry to intrude but on that note, if you were buying your Chapal again, would you bump up to a size large?
I ask because I still intend on purchasing one at some point (black) however I’m a little between medium and large. I’m leaning towards large at this point given it’s already quite a fitted jacket and even possibly adding a cm or two to the body length. I’m a similar height and build to you for reference (slightly broader chest maybe).
I’m of a similar mind to you and have recently realised slim as possible is not always the way to go. This is exemplified fully after purchasing two of your beautiful tapered tees recently. That extra bit of chest room as well as shoulder breadth does wonders. Granted I wear slightly fuller jeans/trousers so it all balances out nicely. Is it worth tending towards these slightly fuller dare i say it more comfortable measurements? it’s a fine line of course I understand.
Hey CK,
Yes if you’re between sizes I would probably go up – the jacket will look big and full in the chest and back, but then that’s the style. If you don’t like the style, then better to go with another type of leather jacket, that’s more closely fitted.
On sizing generally yes I think that is a fine way to go, just keep in mind where you cut things off, and that just because something is large in one dimension, it doesn’t have to be in another. Eg a Rubato knit might be really big in the chest, but it’s short in the length, so stops anyone being swamped. It’s a point I made in regards to sportswear here too.
I started my career 20 years ago and our managers used to blame us when we did not wear a tie. Today, people in the office laugh at me when I wear one (while they believe they are dressing smart casual by wearing ill-fitting jeans, a white popeline shirt, a dark grey suit jacket and black oxfords). I can’t stop thinking something is going wrong.
Your sentence “One step of elevation, but no more. Otherwise it looks like you’re looking down on everyone.” is absolutely spot on. The best advice about office dressing I’ve ever heard.
Thank you again for this great post.
The particular outfit favoured by your colleagues remind me of the pseudo-manager uniform I saw in Sweden in the 2010s: Levis indigo denim, navy jacket (too short, too thin lapels) from Dressman, either a plaid shirt or a polo (Gant or Polo RL) and sneakers or tan-bordering-on-orange leather shoes.
I keep associating denim and jackets with that look…
Now with less informal dresscode in the Office (tie and suit feels over dressed) alot hangs on the shirt so to speak. It is the garment where you can play around with many variables if you care about style and I dont want to go to knitted in the office. To me it gets a little tired and even sloppy if you understand.
I would enjoy very much your thoughts on how one can go about this.
Hi Simon,
It’s a good point, and one I can explore in a fuller post. Much of it is about having a decent quality shirt, and an awareness of styles and materials – collar, oxford v poplin etc. There is a good amount on that in our guide to shirt style, and guide to shirt fabrics.
I would also say that trousers are equally, even perhaps more important. Even in the way they effect the way a shirt looks – if the trousers fit well in the seat and waist, and aren’t low rise, the shirt can be quite loose and blowsy and still look good, because the trousers provide contrast in their fit, and the higher rise means there isn’t lots of shirt around the stomach
Thanks for the links!
Absolutely, trousers not less important. Its just that the myriad of choices for shirts feels overwhelmimg, especially as I would like to try something new.
Yes I completely get that. Maybe have a look at the more casual chapters of the shirt fabrics guide and then ask questions in the comments there, depending on what it answers and doesn’t? It’s great to have that added to posts
Hi Simon, totally unrelated, am considering purchasing a pair of black calf loafers from e&g, with R1 sole for winter. My question is, is the black shoe, black socks rule real?
Well it can’t be that real, given I’ve never heard of it! What’s the rule meant to be?
That black socks only, for black shoes?
I haven’t heard of that I’m afraid Kuda. It wouldn’t really make sense in the context of other menswear traditions either, like matching your trousers to your socks.
True. Thanks.
Hi Simon
When you come into London as you describe above – how do you travel? I’m wondering whether the kinds of clothes in (1) can stand up to commuting by bike or by tube, and how they manage to still look so good despite the wear grind and sweat of everyday use
I wouldn’t cycle any distance in these, certainly. I might hire a Boris Bike to go five or ten minutes, but that’s it.
In terms of how they look good generally, it’s about looking after clothes well. Brush them down now and again, fold them carefully, steam them or press them. It does’t take a lot, and it’s amazing how much people buy good quality clothing and then do nothing to get the value they’ve paid for by looking after them well
Thanks Simon.
So the tailoring in (1) is robust enough for tube & bus commuting but not cycling – and a good idea to press and steam at home. Thanks!
I live in fear of destroying my nice clothes in the London mud and rain and in the hot squeeze and dirt of public transport
I wouldn’t worry about public transport that much. As long you don’t sit on a piece of chewing gum, general heat and squeezing etc can be easily dealt with by how you care for them.
Mud and rain more of an issue, but that’s mostly about the shoes you have and how you care for them before and after damage too.
Hi Simon,
This is interesting. What you describe here is my MO. As a real estate broker in a resort area (Hamptons LI, NY) going back to the ’70’s in my early 20’s (not today to be clear) this is the way I presented myself then and now.
Look forward to meeting you in NYC this Oct. which is where I reside.
You too Guy
Hi Simon, where is that grey knit/sweater in ‘casual chic’ photo from?
Stoff – see review here. They’re in London at the moment actually, first time in years.
This article is really useful. One addition I’d make is that as an avid PS reader it’s quite easy to fall into the menswear bubble and forget the maxim that dressing well is partly also about what others around you are wearing. Sometimes trends in menswear are so usual that you forget that they are quite unusual around you. For me nothing epitomises this more than the tassel loafer. I made an error in getting these rather than plain loafers – too many noticing questions at work, and not in a good way! Rather like monkstraps 5-10 years ago – a sign of the “iGent”. I’ve since gone with plain loafers and am far more comfortable!
useful to have it all laid out, and yes you’re right re dressing just one level above those around you. i have wardrobe full of worsted suits as i work in finance. but the shifting paradigm means i can just about get away with grey worsteds and an open neck. so i wear them as much as possible before they become obsolete too. any suggestions how i can ‘soften’ my navy worsteds and bring them back into rotation?
Perhaps with a striped shirt? Wider than a bengal stripe perhaps – say in a pale blue. And you could try dark-brown suede shoes as well
So glad to see the skinny look gone,was never smart
Hi Simon and thank you so so much. I work here in Athens and often struggle to work out what to wear when I travel to London or Berlin on business. It’s also complicated by varying climates. Your piece helps those of us who want to look professional but not as if we try too hard. Thank you and best to you and all the PS community. Dimitrios
My pleasure Dimitrios
Hi Simon! Great article as always. Where would you put your trousers from Casatlantic on this scale? Are they equivalent with the Rubato chinos or do they belong in the last category?
Hey Nils,
You mean the white ones that I reviewed? I’d say similar to the Rubato chinos, although they are also a little unusual in being a fairly basic make, and a fairly stark white
Hi Simon, fantastic article as always. Would you be able to please help with some recommendations on M2M work shirts at the c£100-150 price point? I’ve tried some of the online companies with mixed results, so would really appreciate any input! Thank you
Hey Zac,
Thanks.
£100-£150 is fairly cheap for MTM shirts – you might end up finding they mostly have to be online, which of course always comes with its own risks. You’re saving money by not having a shop to go to, but you’re also risking not liking the outcome and having less interaction with people that can work out whether it’s right for you.
I should say that this isn’t an area I tend to cover too much, so there may be decent options I’m not aware of, but it’s worth keeping that trade off in mind. Have you tried altering RTW shirts? For example, if you find you’re a little slim for ready-made shirts, it’s very easy to alter them by slimming the body. You can’t let them out though unfortunately.
Lastly, the only maker I do use in this area is Simon Abbarchi, from Florence. He visits London twice a year, but was here a couple of weeks ago now, so that might not work out in terms of timing.
Sorry I can’t be of more direct help.
Hi Simon
What do you think of this dark brown cashmere for a jacket https://www.instagram.com/p/ChR-UNyMpdD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Do you think it’s a versatile pick for a cold colour capsule? Could it work just as easily with jeans?
It’s great for that kind of wardrobe, yes, though I wouldn’t wear it with any jeans other than off-white. It’s cashmere, dark rather than mid-brown, and with no other texture in the weave (eg herringbone). All make it that much smarter
Thanks Simon!
I believe it is a very light weight – 11oz or so. Would this work as a 4-season year round option?
Yes it should do
Simon! I have a question regarding the point where you mention about adding one smart element in the outfit.
Could adding a polo t shirt instead of a tshirt elevate the outfit?
For example wearing a polo t shirt instead of a t shirt and wearing the same with jeans and a trainer?
Yes it could, though as a more personal thing I don’t like polos on their own with jeans and trainers – it often looks a little lazy. That isn’t about smartness though, just style
Hi Simon, my brother has started working for a high end gym in London in the sales team. He needs something smart casual for work. I thought corduroy would work but perhaps it’s a bit countrified? He is looking for something of good quality under £200 that will work in a smart casual work environment. The issue I’ve found is that a lot of the brands are a little to old school, he’s 28. Any recommendations thanks
What do other people wear in his office Oliver? Are we talking T-shirts and trainers, or shirts and shoes?
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the article, how often would you say you take out your suit and tie these days within the month?
And if you were someone starting out on bespoke tailoring would you suggest a start on jackets rather than full suits?
Thanks
Yes I would, absolutely, though of course it heavily depends on your lifestyle – what happens in your office, how often you go to smart events and so on.
I wear a suit and tie once a month at most.
Thank you Simon, would you say that bespoke tailoring then is really “dying” out given that even someone such as yourself it seems is wearing less and less of it.
I remember an article you wrote on “we will survive” I wonder what are you current thoughts and what you see in the industry trends in surviving post Covid.
Best
On the ‘we will survive’ piece I think that’s true but relates to quality clothing as a whole, which I think is still doing well.
Bespoke tailoring is tricky. Trends are certainly against it, but I still feel that the biggest issue is style and communicating effectively to a new generation. It’s so easy to start a brand today online and demonstrate style, yet few of them do it well. I also think bespoke tailoring has had huge benefits in the past 20 years – interest in craft, in local, growth of menswear – and yet many tailors have still struggled.
In the last photo, wear are the khakis from mate?
The Armoury, but they don’t make them anymore. See full post on them here. I am trying to recreate something similar!
Hi Simon,
Looking at the images with a belted trouser and cardigan (cream in one image and black in another), can you tell me are these brown and where they are from?
J
That’s the Officer’s Chino from Rubato, the dark brown we did as a collaboration at one point
I know I am late with my comment. But over the last year I have looked at this very helpful article and comments many times. Indeed, the casual-chic category is the most useful during the work week, and even that category seems to shifting slightly towards more casual.
I can’t help but notice in my environment, and it is a rather conservative environment (corporate law firm), that the jacket is following the way of the suit. Even lawyers seem to wear jackets less and less often, except when meeting with new or particularly formal clients. I also don’t think this is a passing trend and that the jacket is coming back. The reason for my assumption is that the jacket is a relatively difficult garment, very expensive when done good, not particularly comfortable to wear, quite non-functional with little margin for sizing error, delicate and difficult to clean.
I know what you mean Markus, but I think the overall effect of the garment is always going to be the most important one – if someone wants to dress smartly, or more professionally, or look better in any similar way, there is no other real option for men. The issue is mostly that men don’t either want or need that as much as they used to
How important is the jacket and jeans combo still for you? I think it would almost need a fourth category for it alone. Granted, you say it is the exception when going to “town”. But the jacket/jeans combo is something I personally very strongly associate with PS, and something you still seem to be wearing regularly for events like Pitti etc. I personally also enjoy the “french” version of it: mid blue jeans, simple t-shirt, open navy DB or SB-jacket (think Gauthier B., or Emmanuelle Alt). But I know this is not your style.
I love it and still wear it a lot, but you’re right it doesn’t slot into these categories very easily. I guess there are always going to be some things that don’t.
I think the tee with the jeans and jacket can be really nice by the way, but it’s all about execution – the wrong fits or on the wrong person and it looks pretty bad
Hello there, I just wondered whether this jacket from Brcyeland (https://brycelandsco.co.uk/products/bryceland-s-easy-jacket-brown-linen?variant=40495478505554) falls into number 1 or 2?
I think probably not 1, but it could be 2 or 3 depending on how it’s worn, what with.
When you say you wear workwear and sportswear on the weekends then does it mean that you wear it even when meeting your friends at a nice cafe and to a bar or do you wear it only for playing and around your home?
I’d still wear it when meeting my friends at a cafe, yes, though bear in mind in my milieu most people are dragging children with them!
At a bar in the evening I would dress up a touch more than that
As you mentioned that when there is sea of t-shirt and jeans then elevating one thing could do wonders. In that context then if somebody wears a workwear shirt with tailored cotton or linen trousers and old trainers as mentioned in your summer chic article then would that look be a bit more elevated then normal or looking down on others?
Yes it would a little
If someone had only one or two pairs of cord trousers what colors would they be? My first pick would be black because they are contrasting yet, can blend in (ie subtle), and other colors might look too country.
Black certainly has the latter advantage, though I’m not sure how subtle they’d be, given there’s a bit of shine. I think a really dark brown is better myself – eg here
Interesting. What is the ideal weight for cords? Is there such a thing as too light, which would therefore lose the essence of corduroy, like flannel?
It’s not the same as flannel, in that there isn’t a point where you shift from woollen to worsted yarn, but certainly the lighter and softer you get, the less like normal cord it is and it loses character. There is a cord guide article here
Hello Simon, Love this post. Chic look is my favourite. Grey cashmere rugby has some jen se quois panache. This gentleman here shares his version of the same philosophy, I thought you would appreciate his philosophy. It’s in first three minutes of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdP695tjQwc
Take care.
Hey Simon,
I am interested in the Rubato chinos and I notice they also offer a dress Chino. You mentioned that casual chic is more about wearing smart chinos than workwear chinos and, at least by the naming definition, I often associate ‘officer chinos’ with more casual wear. I seem to remember that you’re not a fan of dress chinos however, so I was wondering why you might prefer the officer chinos in the casual chic section, as that is very in line with how I dress. Although they still look smart, assuming dress chinos are more formal, what is the difference in formality level?
Thanks!
I think both can work as a casual chic look, but the dress chinos are more of a smart tailored trouser, more like something you’d have from a tailor or as part of a suit. The officer chinos are more likely to be more versatile in that kind of look
Hi Simon,
Regarding section three, are there any t-shirts that you recommend? I’ve always struggled with finding good ones and default to Uniqlo. I’m reaching a stage where I could do with some more and would like something of a bit higher quality however.
Thank you!
Well, we sell two that I think are perfect at the heavier end of the spectrum and the lighter. Have you seen those?
I was aware, but hadn’t looked into those in all honesty until you mentioned. As someone who also suffers (definitely not the right word but I’m sure you understand where I’m coming from) with a long neck, I love the very intentional design features and I am very tempted!
Oh good, nice to hear it resonates
Incredible, in the Brioni entrance photo, what shoes are you wearing? Also, what is the fabric of the jacket?
My Yohei Fukuda bespoke.
It’s a wool/silk/linen. It was marked as a Brioni one so I don’t know if it’s available elsewhere I’m afraid.
Mr. Simon, what kind of jacket do you typically wear during the transitional seasons in the casual chic category? And don’t you find it uncomfortable to carry your things if you wearing a sweater?
Thanks,
Dean
Hi Dean,
I might wear something like my Adret bomber jacket, or the PS Suede Overshirt perhaps.
If I’m not wearing a jacket I generally carry a bag.
S
How would you approach your wardrobe if you still wanted to look nice, but you needed, at a random time every day, to do a cartwheel, climb a tree, and roll down a grassy hill?
I’d wear workwear – tough shirts, jeans or tough chinos, canvas shoes. A reverse horsehide jacket over it all maybe. There’s so much beauty in that stuff.
Maybe a tweed jacket if I was allowed to take it off before performing these feats