Introducing: The tapered T-shirt

Wednesday, March 2nd 2022
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I’ve always loved Japanese circular-knitted T-shirts. They have so much body, and such a nice hand compared to regular tees. 

By comparison mainstream T-shirts can feel flimsy, almost like underwear. 

But the problem, usually, with Japanese tees is that they’re cut in a traditional (‘authentic’) shape, which is short and square. If you’re remotely slim, they’re not very flattering. 

Brands do vary in proportions, but they can’t do anything about the fact that the body is one piece, like a tube. This stops them from having the tapered shape of a normal T-shirt, as most people are used to. 

Just over a year ago I started talking to Japanese makers about making a simple change: adding side seams to a normal circular tee, so it could be tapered. 

The most successful collaborator was Taka at Clutch Cafe (above), who under his own brand Allevol, makes T-shirts in the well-known Eiji factory in Osaka, Japan. 

I already have a couple of Allevol tees, having covered them previously on PS, and really like the make and feel. They're strong but soft, deliberately recreating the aesthetic of sports shirts from the 50s and 60s.

So I was pleased when (after a few iterations) we managed to produce a T-shirt together that had all that quality and handle, but in a more standard T-shirt shape. 

This is the model we’re launching today, exclusivelyon the PS Shop: an Allevol collaboration of white and navy heavy-duty, circular-knitted T-shirts. 

Their fabric is the result of several years’ development on Taka’s part, creating a material that has a dense, slightly slubby hand, but drapes really nicely on the body. 

It uses a high-grade raw American cotton, which is spun in Japan into 14-count yarn (for context, most high-street T-shirts are around half that, as well as of course using lower quality fibre). 

The material is then knitted slowly on vintage circular machines, referred to as Taimaru. These are similar to loopwheel machines in how they work, but tend to create a denser material and a richer feel. 

The result is a seamless T-shirt, which we then cut up the sides, taper, and resew. 

In deciding how much that taper should be, I compared several mainstream and higher-end brands. 

The average was roughly a drop of 4cm between chest and hem. So, if a medium measured 59cm from pit to pit, the hem at the bottom would be 55cm. 

I also wanted our T-shirts to have a fairly generous chest, so I added one centimetre to the chest measure on each size, creating a 5cm drop overall. 

The result looks quite different to a normal circular-knitted tee, where both chest and waist have to be the same. Those have little shape in the waist, but can also be quite small in the chest, to make sure the waist isn’t too big.

The other small change I made to our T-shirts was the neckline. 

The Allevol model already had a nice height on the front, but it was quite low at the back - again the more traditional or authentic shape. That might have been fine when everyone was wearing a shirt over the top, but worn on their own, this height at the back isn’t that flattering. 

So we squared off the neck, creating a height at the back that looks much better, particularly compared to something like the Warehouse tees we covered last year (when I also commented on that low cut). 

Interestingly, I’ve also found that a T-shirt shaped like this makes crewneck sweaters and sweatshirts easier to wear. I showed in this article why some low-cut sweaters can be unflattering - but if you have the perfect T-shirt neck underneath, it fills in the gap and creates a better neckline. 

In these images, Taka and I have worn various combinations to show how we wear the shirts. 

Of course, no one needs a lesson in how to wear a white T-shirt, but given it’s more casual than most things we cover, I thought readers might like to see how it fits into my wardrobe. 

It’s nearly always worn at the weekend, and usually with denim or chinos - but I’ll still be dressing in a more put-together way than most guys. So in the image above, I’m wearing the white T-shirt under a grey shawl-collar cardigan and old Armoury chinos. 

And below, I’m wearing the navy underneath a Ralph Lauren Purple Label suede Harrington. (This model, the Torrence, has that nice high cut and blousy body that I commented on in the recent Chapal article.) 

I also particularly like - at the weekend - the contrast of clearly very worn jeans with a smarter navy piece on top. 

I’m not sure everyone will wear navy T-shirts regularly either, so I thought this combination was a useful one to show. 

I’ve also pictured it below with my vintage M-65 jacket, to illustrate how nice the colour is with that faded olive. (And so would also be with green chinos, or fatigues.)

Overall, I’d say the navy is a particularly nice colour with mid-blue trousers, white or beige, and olive. But you can also wear it with khaki or black, as Taka is elsewhere.

I thought it was nice to include Taka in the shoot because his style is so different to mine, and he shows elsewhere in this piece how the white tee works with a white shirt and beige chinos, while he wears black leather and jeans with the navy version. 

I was originally planning to do mid-grey as the second colour, but you can't get a good melange with this weight and make. I might look to do one in the future, but it would mean using a different factory. 

There are a few other quality, or technical points worth making. 

The T-shirts have a bound collar, a separate piece of material which uses three lines of stitching to attach it to the body. This stops the collar stretching out over time - compare it to a mainstream T-shirt, and it’s remarkable how flimsy the latter feels. 

But it also uses a little technique to stop the collar being too stiff of bulky, which is putting the last line of stitching on the body, attaching only to the collar on the inside. 

The cotton material is robust and will only get better the more it is washed and worn. However, I'd still recommend treating it as you would a dress shirt: wash cool and hang dry rather than tumble dry. 

Also - rather like the PS oxfords - this dense and malleable material has some natural stretch from the way it’s woven. So after washing, don’t be afraid to give it a little stretch one way or the other, to gently add some length or width.

This is the same thing denim does after its washed, coming in a little and then going out as it’s worn again, adapting to the body. Doing this reshaping after washing is just accelerating that process.

(This attribute of fabric is something I’ll cover elsewhere, as I find it interesting and it's not something you really get with smarter clothing.)

The 'tapered T-shirt' as we're calling it, is available on the PS Shop now.

Here's the sizing detail, followed by a round-up of the product details. If anyone has any questions at all though, please do ask in the comments.

Sizing:

  • The T-shirts fit like any regular tee in the body (from Sunspel for example) which all have a slight taper
  • The only difference you will notice is that the chest is a little larger, and the shoulder seam slightly dropped. Both of which I find quite flattering
  • In the images above, I am wearing a Medium, while Taka is wearing a Small
  • However, I also like a Large for a slightly oversized look, and the nice thing about the taper is that it doesn’t look too big. I have shown a Large below

 

X-small Small Medium Large X-large XX-large
Chest (pit to pit) 49cm 52 55 58 60 63
Hem (bottom width) 44 47 50 53 55 58
Length (from back neck) 60 62 64 66 68 70

Product details:

  • 100% American raw cotton, spun into a 14-count yarn
  • Although heavier than most mainstream T-shirts, this is a common weight for Japanese makes, which are designed for heavier duty and to retain their shape
  • I find the weight is fine throughout the summer. You might feel the difference in a tropical country, or when it’s 35 degrees and above, but not otherwise
  • Circular knitted, in Osaka, Japan, before being cut and sewn in the sides
  • Wash cold and hang to dry
  • There is little shrinkage, due to the density of the weave and the structure created by the side seams. But a small change, of a centimetre or so, can be changed with the reshaping after washing described above
  • Available in white and navy - a soft, off-white and a washed-looking navy
  • Cost £58 plus VAT
  • Ships from London
  • Available on the Permanent Style shop here

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt

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Voisy

Asket t-shirts are tapered. Have you not considered this brand?

Jim

Hi Simon, i notice in both pictures of you in the white t-shirt you have the sleeves turned up. Would it not have been an idea to make the sleeves shorter in length if indeed you prefer them like that? Rolled up t shirt sleevs can be fine but its a bit of a look and eppears somewhat messy in these pictures with the hem stiching visible and so on.

Jim

Thanks Simon, for me id rather not have to roll them up and i preffer a shorter sleeve as i find it more flatering. Not quite sure of the cut of this T-shirt is for me therefor.

Gary Mitchell

How very rock’n’roll of you…. are you not tempted to push a packet of Marlborough into the sleeve as well? 🙂

Gary Mitchell

Shirts (ordered) still a bargain but not as much as I thought as I forgot to factor in UK taxes and the site must have given me the tax free price based on my IP address location. Next question is when I will try them as it may be months before the next UK trip and I had them sent to my UK address. Always nice to have parcels waiting though. As for smoking, a friend of mine used to have a surf board attached to the roof of his car as he thought it made him look cool… he didnt surf, he didnt even swim, but he did like style.

Gary Mitchell

It was always clear shipmate… it was only a comment, not a question. No worry.

Gary Mitchell

Months after ordering the t-shirts I was eventually united with them. Excellent, love them. Thanks.

André

Hi Simon,

I liv in Sweden and when I tried to buy the shirt in the shop tax was added, is that correct? When I bought things from the UK recently (from Colhays for example) taxes was not added in the shop but a fee for taxes in Sweden was sent to me later from the delivery firm. Will I have to pay both UK tax and Swedish tax when I order from Permantent Style?

kind regards
André

Jim

looking again you appear to have rather sloping shoulders [i hope you dont mind me saying]. Mine are somewhat more square so the sleeve may finish higer up my arm?

Patrick C

Simon, I don’t know how you respond so politely to some of these comments… I was reading your article on your tattoo and the unwarranted feedback was really rude. Keep up the awesome work, I’m sorry you have to deal with people like this.

Henry

What is the weigh of the fabric?

Gary Mitchell

These look/sound great Simon. I have a few brands of t-shirt that all work in a particular way but the most similar would be my Real McCoy t-shirts which make your new shirts look to be a real bargain. I think I will try them for sure.

Stephen S

Hi Simon,
A very good looking t-shirt. A informative article as well. I didn’t realise how much could go into what appears such a simple garment (although quite often the case with many innovations). Also it makes it clear as to the price point relative to some cheaper versions. Although that said it seems pretty consistent with higher end pricing and appears better quality and design.
The tight robust neckline is great if it stands up to wearing and washing- something which usually means many of mine end up as gardening garment and then cleaning cloth in fairly short order!
I for one really like navy T-shirts (never black!) worn on their own or under a casual (in my case various Belstaff styles) jacket.
Just a quick question mainly re the white as I didn’t really follow the point re the back of the neck- would it be suitable for under a shirt. Not a deal breaker either way- just something to I would take into consideration.
Thanks again for a great new garment and for another educational piece.

David B

Great product idea. Thanks, Simon. I know I’m a small in the Allevol Heavy Duty Crew Neck T-Shirt (and Sunspel). Would you recommend taking the same sizing for a regular fit (rather than the slightly oversized fit)? I was comparing chest measurements and they look a bit different.

David B

Thanks again, Simon. I’ve order one of each colour.

Peter O

Sunspel t-shirts shrink.

Teo

Hi Simon! I hope you’re keeping well, congrats on the new product launch. I have a couple of questions. What sort of shrinkage, if any, show we expect after the first wash? My Warehouse t-shirts have shrunk close to an inch in length after washing. I wonder if that is due to the circular knitted construction which might be alleviated on your product by the presence of the side seams?

Also, I’ve always found it strange that the navy on these types of t-shirts is very pale, washed-out, as you mention. Is there a particular reason for this? I’ve always wanted one in a proper navy colour, to create a bit of contrast with a well-worn pair of jeans.

Best,
Teo

Matt

“But the problem… is that they’re cut in a traditional (‘authentic’) shape, which is short and square.”
I can understand why garments may have been cut shorter in the past – as the average man was smaller due to lower standards of nutrition – but what was the reason for traditionally cutting t-shirts / shirts / jackets wide?
If anything, I’d have expected the reverse to be true as men living in western countries nowadays are more likely to be heavier than they were 60 – 70 years ago.

Mark

Hello Simon, this is probably a really stupid question but I don’t know the answer and so I thought I’d ask anyway! Isn’t part of the appeal of a circular knit that they don’t have any seams up the side? Are you then losing that by cutting them in order to taper? Presumably the answer is that you feel that the overall fit is more important than a couple of seams?

Mark

That’s great thanks Simon, I hadn’t appreciated that the circular knitting created a different feel.

SAO

Fantastic – both product and article really hit the T-shirt nerve. I’m sorely tempted! The thing that has always slightly deterred me from a few of the Japanese brands I’ve tried is the boxy shape; this t-shirt addresses that directly while keeping the heavy weight, slubbiness and robustness that is so widely admired. Perfect neckline, too.
For many years I was into Sunspel T-shirts. The classic ones are a little baggy on me, but the Riviera model I still think is great: precisely the right fit and proportions. As mentioned, they can seem a little dainty compared with Allevol or Warehouse, but they are nevertheless very resilient and have stood up well without any shape-loss or neck-sagging. Also, the article mentions it is hard to find quite the right pale grey marl type colour – I think Sunspel’s is close.
More recently I’ve been chasing the heftiness of Japanese makers that this product aims at. Have you tried 3Sixteen’s? Heavy but a more regular shape. A further mention might go to All Blues in Leeds, making under their own name. The sizing is generous (I’m normally large, but opted for small), but the weight and quality is good.
Otherwise, a couple of questions. Is the shoulder seam deliberately slightly lower/dropped. It looks so in some of the pictures; an effect you were aiming at, presumably? And, slightly more off-beam, did you contemplate a raglan shoulder at any time? Unusual, certainly, but can occasionally look appealing, I reckon.

Peter Hall

I really like the tightness of the neckline. It’s always the failure point on tees. They look great slightly baggy – reminds me of the heavy weight American tees of my youth. Although, they were always too large around the neck, if you wanted the slouch. The taper is a sensible solution.

Peter O

If one notices in current media Russian military, one sees open collared shirts with high neck undershirts, so the historical research of men’s t-shirt might reveal its popularity in US uniform which influenced other countries’ military dress?

Jamie

Have you got any plans to do a long sleeve version?

Mark

Hello Simon, that is interesting – I don’t particularly like short sleeved ones but never really thought about why. Thinking about it now I don’t really like short sleeved anything preferring just to pull sleeves up and don’t really wear a lot of tee-shirts anyway – the two I have are a dark navy and a dark grey which I tend to wear under a roll neck so perhaps it is just a question of comfort and praticality for me rather than style.

Kind regards

Mark

Robin

Given the level of detail and quality £58 is a good price point. Especially given how ‘brands’ put their lettering at the front and sell t-shirts of inferior quality for more .

A couple of questions
1 for those with some extra ‘weight’ around the waist how will the taper look ? Are these suited to more athletic builds ?

2 how long would such an item of clothing last ? I know this is a tricky question but probably easier answered for a simpler piece as a t-shirt . Is the cloth and colour resilient enough last at least 5 yrs ?

Ferdinand

Hi Simon, could you explain (or give a link) how it is circular knitting that gives the fabric “so much body, and such a nice hand compared to regular tees”. 
My go to t-shirt is from the Dutch brand NoLabel and is, I believe, not circularly knitted, but also has a very nice heft to it (https://www.nolabel.com/product-kaos-plain-cotton-in-light-grey), which is why I like it – not at all like underwear. Of course, it is made in China and has no romantic artisanal backstory to it, which I however admittedly don’t really care about as long as production is fair and the product quality is good.
Speaking about NoLabel and some other similar quasi-startups (Asket etc.), what they often do is provide a cost breakdown (in this case indicating that the raw cost of the t-shirt is EUR 6.10). Have you ever thought of doing something similar for your own products? I think it fits well in the overall theme of sustainability and corporate transparency.

JAW

Simon,
Nice addition to the PS line-up. I see the t-shirts are “raw cotton.” Any idea of how much you expect these to shrink and where (ie chest, length) considering the circular knit? Apologies if you mentioned this above and I missed it.
Thanks,
JAW

Alan

Hi Simon,
Great looking T-Shirts, how would you say they compare to a Merz B Schwanen 214 (if you have experience of those). I would be interested if you know what make the ivory pleated chinos that Taka is wearing (in the first photo) are?
Thanks,
Alan

Joe

Nice one Simon. I have bought a few t shirts from Full Count and I find them to be less boxy than the usual Japanese tees. I hope you do these in more colours for the future. Hint: Gray and Olive please.

Richard

Hi Simon, look great bud advice on sizing, if you wouldn’t mind. I’m 6ft, 41in chest and 33in waist. I prefer slightly snug over baggy. What would be your call?

Josh

Another timely release! I was eyeing up the Allevol t-shirts at Clutch just yesterday in line with your previous review and recommendations, but the refinements here seem difficult to forgo. Based on the chest measurements, I have sized down for my order – I’ll report back if this turned out to be a mistake!

Josh

Maybe ‘sized down‘ is a bit misleading, if only because I’ve learnt to follow measurements over sizes, and I’ve always been a little suspicious of your equation of medium with a 40” chest size. But nevertheless, I take a large in the Dartmoor which fits flatteringly and snug, and my mediums in this tee arrived today and fit ideally. By no means tight or small; the taper is flattering but subtle. The only comment an observer might make is on the length, but I’m 6’4” and favour higher rise trousers so this is both inevitable and not actually a problem. A large for me would definitely have the oversized look you mention in the piece.

The neckline is superb, by far the most flattering of any tee I’ve tried, and the heavyweight fabric is soft, smooth and also rather subtle – it doesn’t look unusual to the untrained eye. I’m thrilled, once again, to have a new PS design in my wardrobe!

Fernando

Hey Simon, what’s the weight of the fabric?

Henry

Hi,
So what is the weight?

JSB

Simon,
Apologies if I’ve missed it in the article but on style perspective, I’m guessing this t-shirt is designed to be worn untucked? I have a liking for Sunspel’s Riviera t-shirt and that is 70cm in body length in the size M. The PS tee is only 66cm in the size M and I usually struggle to tuck in the Riviera should i want to treat it as a undergarment over say a sweater. Height is a factor I guess. I’m 1.84m tall but I believe you’re a similar height so should be in good position to relate. All advice appreciated. Many thanks.

MBB355

Will the t-shirt be ok if tumble dried? I like the concept of high-quality tees. But having to cold wash and hang dry kind of kills them for me. Tees, unlike dress shirts, require a lot more washing since they’re worn directly on the body, often in warm weather. They’re workhorses. It’’s be ideal to just toss them into the dryer. So how will the product hold up under those conditions? I’ll note that I regularly tumble dry my cheap, mainstream t-shirts and they hold up fine. But my expensive Informale t-shir wrinkled and the collar folded and creased in unsightly ways. How will this product react? Thanks.

MBB355

So if I understand correctly, washing and tumble-drying will reduce the life of the product somewhat but won’t really affect its appearance (at least not for a few years)? Thanks, as always

MBB355

I’m happy to care for it properly, I just wanted to better understand the consequences of tumble-drying. Thanks.

Peter O

Tumble drying Sunspel means immediate and probably more shrinkage than by drying by clothes line. Among all my clothesline hung clothes, Sunspel t-shirts dry first, esp. when during drying time turned inside out.

Paul

Ironically I once tried to shrink a sunspel heavy weight tshirt by this method after losing weight and the swine held its shape despite breaking all the rules.

Peaked at 90 degree wash and high heat tumble for two hours and came out untouched. Sturdy t-shirt!

Ole Kristian

Simon, please tell us more about that zipped wool jacket.

SVT

This is a beautiful sweater!

Severin

this beautiful cardigan is currently on sale here:
https://www.breuninger.com/de/marken/rrl/strickjacke/1001243007/p/?variant=229a725dffb564f068831cf0823f3b78
unfortunately, there is only XL left, so too big for me… and I’m afraid they only ship to Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Poland, as it seems.
But for some, this might be a tempting bargain (however, still expensive)

Scott

Simon, thanks for the fit comparison with Sunspel. As my t-shirt of choice is the Sunspel Riviera size large, may I assume a large would be appropriate for me in this model? By the way, your cardigan and the purple label Harrington look fabulous!

Scott

Thanks, I’ll order the medium then.

Matty

Nice idea, Simon, they look great.

I have a couple of the Allevol tees so can personally vouch for their quality. The fabric is a ‘dry’ fabric similar to Barns tees which they remind me of.

There are a few Japanese brands that produce tubular knitted tees with side seams – UES make some really lovely ones although I’m not sure if they’re tapered but they’re quite slim fitting and have some natural stretch – the fabric is slightly different to most tubular knit tees – very soft.

Adam

Not that I’m trying to discourage people from buying this t shirt but I have a circular Real McCoy’s t shirt (no side seams) and although I’m both tall and slim it really doesn’t look boxy or square on me at all. It’s slightly shorter in the body than most t shirts, but I think that’s actually an advantage as the hem line will stay above a short jacket like a bomber jacket or valstarino when it’s untucked.

Matthew W

Hi Simon,
What a nice surprise to read this article today! I’ve been looking for quality t-shirts for about a year and was never quite ready to pull the trigger on t-shirts of similar quality, as I don’t like the boxy aesthetic of the traditional cut. This looks much better!
I wasn’t quite sure what size (I am a medium in the PS Oxford shirt, but a small in the Donegal Overcoat – 6’0″ and 160lbs if that helps), so I have ordered both sizes to try on.
I should mention I feel very confident in ordering “blindly” from your site, as I have always had really good service from your team and trust the quality of the products you are putting out.

MBB355

Matthew, I think we’re long-lost twins! I’m the same height/weight and also take PS Oxfords in M and the Donegal Overcoat in S. I ordered these tees in S for what it’s worth.

Matthew W

MBB355,

How did the Small work out?

Simon, I found my own measurements of the length a fair bit shorter than the table (measuring from the seam with the sleeve). I get 60cm for the Small and 62cm for the Medium. By comparison most of my t-shirts are 66-68cm. The chest and hem are consistent all around.

I think for that reason I’ll go with the Medium. Curious to know what others found.

Quality is there, of course. And I really like the higher rise at the back of the neck!

Clive

Another great looking product – but these have flown out of the shop, at least in the medium navy that I would like. Do you think there will be a restock any time soon? I’ve joined the waiting list.

Ole Thomas Thommesen

Im quite tall and would need about 74 cm in the large og medium. So a shame. Would you know a brand that do long but slim versions? (i realize I would forego tapering)
any suggestions much appreciated

Max

I have several Japanese tees but I rarely wear them due to the points you have listed. I love the quality and feel of them but when it all comes around the fit is just off as they are way too boxy. I have a large chest and shoulders and it is just not a flattering look how much I try.

Noel

They flew of the shelf! I wish I had checked the site earlier today. It’s a fantastic idea Simon. I have a few warehouse t-shirts and the waist is too wide, particularly so because I have to size up as they’re quite short.

I’ve added myself to the waiting list. My only suggestion is that you go for as many standard colours as possible!

Stephen S

Hi Simon
Please can you let me know where the patterned cardigan (not the ribbed shawl neck) you are wearing in some of the photographs. I may be going word blind but can’t find in the text. Possibly RRL?
Also any idea where something similar could be currently sourced?
Best.

Stephen

Hi Simon,
Thanks and thanks also for your earlier reply on the T-shirt questions.

Dan

No Man Walks Alone carries them – I’ve got one that Taylor Stitch made in collaboration with Kanata. Truly special handknit garments: https://nomanwalksalone.com/collections/kanata

Robert

Thanks for link Dan. Something I really appreciate about the PS community. You guys always share where to source hard to find stuff. And yes, the T’s flew off the shelves. Hopefully I can get one with the restock.

Matt L

Already sold out in Navy XXL? Wow.

Ben

Will there be a v-neck version of this? I’m curious about the fabric quality. I have both circular and regular knits in various thicknesses and have never heard of the claim that the former is able to achieve a fabric quality the latter isn’t.

Daniel

Hi Simon, these look great – any chance of stocking them at Clutch? Best,
Daniel

Bob

A contentious subject but…. “designed in London”?

With the backlash against production in China, Bangladesh etc it seems increasingly common for brands to declare a design location rather than manufacture on their labels and I see this item declares it was designed in London.

The article on one hand suggests a collaborative approach with multiple Japanese producers before finally landing on a design with Take but did they all really come over to London to work on a design with you or is there more poetic license in leveraging the declaration it was designed in London?

I hope you take the post in the spirit of debate its intended rather than attack

FB

Ordered and it will be my first ‘expensive’ tee so I’ll be interested to see how it measures up. On a separate note: “the same thing denim does after its washed” should surely be “it’s”?

Ben

Hey Simon any insight regarding Allevol’s manufacturing having decent ethical standards in their production?
Saw this blog post 12hrs ago but wanted to order for my brothers as well but by the time I confirmed their sizes everything was gone. Have put myself on the wait list.

Ian

what other releases are coming in the the next 6/12 months ? ( I like to plan my purchases) any plans to restock the darker denim shirt or the material ? Thanks

Amit

I’m getting one in White. Period. What size would you recommend for me considering the fact I wear PS Shirts in size S. I intend to wear this with my jeans as a stand alone piece in summers and under my RRL Jacquard overshirt/knitwear in winters.

Amit

Also Simon by reading this it seems to me that I can also wear this under my PS Oxford’s/Everyday Denim shirts? Then I wouldn’t have to buy another t-shirt from Hamilton & Hare for the reason mentioned above. Please let me know. Thanks Simon.

Rik

Hi Simon – what are the chinos you’re wearing in the 4th picture from the top? Slightly straw coloured with the pleats

Rik

Thank you

Chris K

These really are cracking, Simon. I truly hope they become a PS staple.

You’ve mentioned consistently, there is space for this heavier version as a distinct category. I saw an IG post from Rivet and Hide last year, I think the model was wearing your Flat Head version, but the fraying around the neckline etc. was amazing. Regular high street tees just don’t age like this. This along with my growing love for Japanese constructed fabrics and I’ve been trying to find the right one since.

I tried one from The Real McCoy’s last spring, in a very similar navy. The sleeves were just a tad too short for me though, however I think you’ve solved this with the slightly lower shoulder. The PS tapered tee seems perfect. On the waiting list, think I’ll go with navy first for this summer. Love the denim + double navy, one of my staple outfits in mild/warmer weather. Also looks great with olive chinos/fatigues as you mention, something about navy and olive works on many levels.

Scott

Well I went to the PS shop to order both colors in medium and both are sold out! Wow, good stuff goes quickly; on waiting list now.

Dom

These look fantastic. The white in medium is already gone. Would it be possible to get a sleeve opening measurement for the medium? I have slimmer arms and wide sleeve opening only enhances my scrawniness.

BEN DUHL

when do you expect to restock M?

David

Hi Simon – most of the tees in white look to be sold out already. Is that right?! If so, any restocks soon?

Gilles

Very interesting addition to your product range, Simon. Unfortunately M size in white already sold out. Any plan to produce a new batch?

Owen

Such a shame that medium shirts in both colours seem to have sold out within a day or so. I guess it’s hard to predict how popular an item will be.
Will there be another run anytime soon? With summer on the way, I’m sure they wouldn’t hang around.

JB

It’s funny, I always found navy t-shirts a lot more useful and versatile than white ones. These look great, only issue is I’m not sure they’re quite long enough, being a few cm shy of 2 meters tall..

Steve

I have been looking for good quality T-Shirts that don’t mis-shape and these look great. The trouble is although I’m 5’9″, Proportionally, I’m 6′ from the waist up. Any T-shirt less than 68cm in length looks like a crop top on me after one wash.
I’ve wasted quite a bit of money on expensive T-Shirts (and also Sunspel Riviera Polos) only to discard of them within a few months as I’m uncomfortable having my midriff on show.
So far the only 100% cotton T-Shirts I have found that don’t shrink or twist are from Reiss or H&M.
Its possible the Large will just fit lengthwise, as long as it stays that length, but at 58cm pit-to-pit, its going to be pretty baggy around my chest which is 40″.
By the way, great blog and thanks for replying to a lot of your comments. It does help.
One last thing, I’m turning 40 this month and trying to dress more like a grown up. It would be great to see you do a follow up on your Family post, ideally covering Dad’s casual style. For example what to wear to kids birthday parties, to the park (in all seasons), taking the kids to myriad of lessons etc…

Steve

I did and that has helped.
I have a party this weekend and am planning chambray shirt, raw denim jeans and suede trainers/or desert boots.
However, I’m not sure crawling around a ball pit and on the floor in a shirt is going to be too much fun.
I would be great to have an update to that capsule which covers some more options for what you wear for the school run/children’s parties.

Any thoughts on the 58cm pit to pit dimension for your large T-Shirt. Will that be too blousy for a 40″ chest?

Thanks
Steve

Steve

Thanks Simon
I look forward to it.

Peter Hall

Steve.
Look at the Dutch brand G Star(everyone is tall over here) Their basic white tees have a long back length. Just double check 100% cotton as some have elastane.

Steve

Thanks Peter, I’ll take a look. Its not a brand I’ve ever considered as it brings back memories of shopping centres, baggy jeans on the hip and big logos. But for a basic Tee it could be ok

David

Simon – looks like nearly all sizes in the white are sold out already. Any restock coming soon?

Viv

Hi Simon, Apologies in advance for a slightly odd question. The concept is truely interesting. However, I find labels at the neck of most tshirts a little itchy and uncomfortable – detracting from the inherent softness and comfort of a Tee. So, I remove them. Is this feasible with this tshirt without causing damage?

Michele

The year is 2027. The PS x Real McCoy’s M65 in Dark Brown drops in two days.
I’m awaked by dawn’s amber rays reflected in the pop-up shop window. I fold my PS camp chair and cast a backward glance at the line-up. Flannel-clad figures shuffle against the damp pavement. A congregation. I draw the tweed of my coat close against a cold gust. The man next to me casts an envious glance. Aren’t you glad for those cashmere-lined pockets, he says. We exchange a friendly glance. Only two more days.

Willow

This is absolutely sensational, bravo sir.

Matt L

Hi Simon. I’ve washed mine recently and I see that the care instructions have a setting for ironing, but it also says to use a press cloth. Should I be doing this through a tea-towel? Also should they be pressed instead of “ironed”?

Haackk

Hi, Simon.

I just received my t-shirts, and I have to say: My hunt for the perfect tee has stopped. You have designed it. I could have gone with an L, but went with an XL. The wider shoulder and tapered waist accentuates a more manly physique, which I don’t think the L would on my body. I also think the Large does the same on you, compared to the M.

So the larger size looks best when worn on it’s own, IMHO. The smaller size might sit better underneath a shirt.
I can’t wait for the restock, and hopefully a version in grey as well. I will stock up on these.

Thanks

MW

Could someone who has received a medium and someone who has received a large please share shoulder measurements of the shirts? Thanks!

Yash

Hello Simon,
Received my navy and white in a small a few days ago. I will just say that I cannot see how “normal” T-shirts are ever going to interest me again. The weight and density of the fabric makes such a difference. Absolutely perfect.
Some questions:
1) I will restock these as well, but will you also be doing any other colours in the future?
2) How do these compare with the Warehouse ones at Clutch in terms of not feeling flimsy like other normal T-shirts? If the Warehouse ones have similar “substantial” feel to them I will add some of those before summer.
(Unrelated)
3) Trunk Moxon short and long sleeved polos to wear over the summer. How’s the quality and are they worth the cost? Any general thoughts and what you might see as better alternatives.
4) Are Fedeli Polos any good (also stocked at trunk)
5) Which are better – Trunk or Fedeli)?
6) The PS Friday button down cotton polo – can it be worn untucked as well as tucked in?
Thanks in advance.
Yash

Yash Patel

Hi Simon,
1)Noted. Looking forward to seeing that new colour and adding it.
2)Ok. This sounds like they will be worth getting a couple of them.
3) Ok.
4). Perfect. Will pick up some Fideli next week when in town. I have a couple of stops I want to make (A&S, Clutch) and will add Trunk to the route.
5) Ok
6) Ok great, will get both and utilise accordingly.
If I do pick up the Trunk Moxons, I will post thought on here both initial thoughts and after some wear and washing.
Re your finest short sleeve wool polos – do you think I would be a size small (36chest)?
As ever, very helpful, thanks Simon.
Yash

Yash

Thanks Simon.
Will the Finest Polo be coming back into stock soon in all colours?
Any new colours?
Thanks.
Yash

Yash

Perfect, thanks Simon.

John

In case you are taking suggestions for colours, something bright like the salmon Warehouse one you reviewed would be welcomed by me! A t-shirt is a great way to add some colour in a subtle way i.e. compared to bright outerwear, jumpers, trousers etc.

John

Hi Simon, was just wondering if you have decided on the new colour, if you can share?

I just started wearing a Real McCoys loopwheel t-shirt that i purchased over the winter and have encountered the same issue that led you to this tapered version; the hem is too large, and balloons-out further with wear (though contacts after washing). I have the navy PS tapered t-shirt waiting at my parents house in the UK, and cannot wait to wear it this summer. In someways it’s surprising that none of the Japanese makers tried this already, though i am equally not surprised that they didn’t want to cut it down the seams after production; perhaps that would be at odds with Japanese sensibilities.

Anyway, great example of a PS product that gives us something new while being extremely useful.

John

Faded black sounds intriguing (and not something i would have thought of), looking forward to the release!

Martins

a curious question.. in my, admittedly, lower quality garment experience, the darker the colour, the faster it fades… especially on cotton. so why not make just navy and black and let it fade naturally?

Niklas

Hi Simon,
Gotta love a good T-shirt but following up on our discussion about them jeans. I’ve noticed you wearing one (or several) pair of vintage Levis jeans. I’ve been trying to search around without luck to find more information about the wash and fit. I was curious if you could elaborate a bit on the ones you have or had. The wash looks really nice and soft, and just what I’m looking for. What about the fit in general and in particular the rise and width around the thighs as well as the leg opening? Which model is it, and how would I go about finding a pair? Ebay?
I’ve been wearing mostly MTM jeans in Candiani demin as well as models from Zaremba (not sure about the fabric there).
Thankful for any insights you can bring on this topic.

Niklas

Thanks Simon, this was helpful. Having a few go-to places to look for these is very valuable. It’s not really a core wardrobe item but as you mentioned, something to do on the side. I will re-read the links you provided and perhaps there’s more room for discussion after that.
Best,

Richard

Hi Simon,
just received my white T shirt and whilst I’ve got used to pretty high expectations from PS, this has simply smashed the ball out of the park! Ridiculously comfortable the fit is absolutely spot on. I dithered over M or L and subsequently missed out entirely. Mine was obviously a return. Anyway, the L is perfect. I’m 6ft, 41in chest and 33in waist. The cotton had such a dense and substantial feel that I sense the fit would still feel perfect even if I was a 40 or 42 in chest. Tell me that you have already decided to have these in permanent stock in the future. And a black and dark olive would be perfect. On another note, is there anything you can reveal yet, about your upcoming summer coat/jacket? I’ve got my eye on something but am holding off for this…

Jonathan Han

Simon, great t-shirts. I bought both of them and am impressed with the design and quality. The weight of the t-shirts is fine even in the heat of Singapore. Keep it up and I look forward to new colourways in the future.

Amit

Hello Simon. I just received my Tapered T-shirt in size S. This is my first hand experience of a Japanese T-shirt and I’m extremely pleased with the fit and the quality (I’m actually lounging in this Tee as I write this), extremely comfortable and this combination of comfort, fit and sizing makes it a great Tee and great buy for me personally. I’ve owned T-shirts in the past from the likes of M&S (they develop holes in them over a period of time), UCB and couple of other makers, but this is quite something else altogether. Thank you Simon.

https://youtu.be/tIdJqysEavg

Adrien

Well done Simon! Could you please elaborate on the choice of a ribbed collar vs a plain one? I find plain collars more dressy. Are there other considerations than style? Thank you.

trung nam le

Hi Simon, must congrats to you for a wonderful launch. My friend is lucky to receive it in the first launch. I was wondering if there is a plan for restock of the Taper T-Shirt anytime soon. Was looking to get mine and with the Finest Polo Shirt. Thank you

D

Hi Simon,
I have been using my White and Navy t a lot the past month. They are fantastic and easily the best t shirts I own!
Not related to the shirts at all, but I can’t get over how good that suede blouson looks. If you ever decide to do another Suede jacket in the future, please do a Navy raglan!

Henry

I’ll actually be happy, if you do both.
I missed last year dark brown Valstar, and hopefully this year I’ll be able to get it.

Amit

Hello Simon. How many T-Shirts would you recommend in my wardrobe as I intend to wear it casually regularly with my Jeans as summer staples and with layers in winters. I already have two Japanese tees in white and I’m looking at Japanese navy tee as my second best option.

CK

Hey Simon, can I ask when we might expect (roughly) these beauties to land back in the shop? I’m on the list but now realise as things heat up I’ve shot myself in the foot not pulling the trigger first time around.

Jonathan

Simon, I would like to really commend you on these. Many of my family and friends have commented on how nice the T-shirts look despite being deceptively simple. Are you planning to add new colours any time soon?

Stephan

Hello, Simon.
I have a question about the fabric’s stretch during wear: as it is a heavy T-shirt, does it stretch at all, or is it a very stiff fabric that doesn’t stretch? I’m not sure if I convey my meaning well, but some T-shirts have much more stretch the way they are woven than others. E.g. the more stretchy/loosely woven ones are easier to put on and off and you stretch it over yourself to get in while the tighter ones are stiffer and you have to force yourself inside it so to say.
Thanks,
S