Introducing: The tapered T-shirt
I’ve always loved Japanese circular-knitted T-shirts. They have so much body, and such a nice hand compared to regular tees.
By comparison mainstream T-shirts can feel flimsy, almost like underwear.
But the problem, usually, with Japanese tees is that they’re cut in a traditional (‘authentic’) shape, which is short and square. If you’re remotely slim, they’re not very flattering.
Brands do vary in proportions, but they can’t do anything about the fact that the body is one piece, like a tube. This stops them from having the tapered shape of a normal T-shirt, as most people are used to.
Just over a year ago I started talking to Japanese makers about making a simple change: adding side seams to a normal circular tee, so it could be tapered.
The most successful collaborator was Taka at Clutch Cafe (above), who under his own brand Allevol, makes T-shirts in the well-known Eiji factory in Osaka, Japan.
I already have a couple of Allevol tees, having covered them previously on PS, and really like the make and feel. They're strong but soft, deliberately recreating the aesthetic of sports shirts from the 50s and 60s.
So I was pleased when (after a few iterations) we managed to produce a T-shirt together that had all that quality and handle, but in a more standard T-shirt shape.
This is the model we’re launching today, exclusivelyon the PS Shop: an Allevol collaboration of white and navy heavy-duty, circular-knitted T-shirts.
Their fabric is the result of several years’ development on Taka’s part, creating a material that has a dense, slightly slubby hand, but drapes really nicely on the body.
It uses a high-grade raw American cotton, which is spun in Japan into 14-count yarn (for context, most high-street T-shirts are around half that, as well as of course using lower quality fibre).
The material is then knitted slowly on vintage circular machines, referred to as Taimaru. These are similar to loopwheel machines in how they work, but tend to create a denser material and a richer feel.
The result is a seamless T-shirt, which we then cut up the sides, taper, and resew.
In deciding how much that taper should be, I compared several mainstream and higher-end brands.
The average was roughly a drop of 4cm between chest and hem. So, if a medium measured 59cm from pit to pit, the hem at the bottom would be 55cm.
I also wanted our T-shirts to have a fairly generous chest, so I added one centimetre to the chest measure on each size, creating a 5cm drop overall.
The result looks quite different to a normal circular-knitted tee, where both chest and waist have to be the same. Those have little shape in the waist, but can also be quite small in the chest, to make sure the waist isn’t too big.
The other small change I made to our T-shirts was the neckline.
The Allevol model already had a nice height on the front, but it was quite low at the back - again the more traditional or authentic shape. That might have been fine when everyone was wearing a shirt over the top, but worn on their own, this height at the back isn’t that flattering.
So we squared off the neck, creating a height at the back that looks much better, particularly compared to something like the Warehouse tees we covered last year (when I also commented on that low cut).
Interestingly, I’ve also found that a T-shirt shaped like this makes crewneck sweaters and sweatshirts easier to wear. I showed in this article why some low-cut sweaters can be unflattering - but if you have the perfect T-shirt neck underneath, it fills in the gap and creates a better neckline.
In these images, Taka and I have worn various combinations to show how we wear the shirts.
Of course, no one needs a lesson in how to wear a white T-shirt, but given it’s more casual than most things we cover, I thought readers might like to see how it fits into my wardrobe.
It’s nearly always worn at the weekend, and usually with denim or chinos - but I’ll still be dressing in a more put-together way than most guys. So in the image above, I’m wearing the white T-shirt under a grey shawl-collar cardigan and old Armoury chinos.
And below, I’m wearing the navy underneath a Ralph Lauren Purple Label suede Harrington. (This model, the Torrence, has that nice high cut and blousy body that I commented on in the recent Chapal article.)
I also particularly like - at the weekend - the contrast of clearly very worn jeans with a smarter navy piece on top.
I’m not sure everyone will wear navy T-shirts regularly either, so I thought this combination was a useful one to show.
I’ve also pictured it below with my vintage M-65 jacket, to illustrate how nice the colour is with that faded olive. (And so would also be with green chinos, or fatigues.)
Overall, I’d say the navy is a particularly nice colour with mid-blue trousers, white or beige, and olive. But you can also wear it with khaki or black, as Taka is elsewhere.
I thought it was nice to include Taka in the shoot because his style is so different to mine, and he shows elsewhere in this piece how the white tee works with a white shirt and beige chinos, while he wears black leather and jeans with the navy version.
I was originally planning to do mid-grey as the second colour, but you can't get a good melange with this weight and make. I might look to do one in the future, but it would mean using a different factory.
There are a few other quality, or technical points worth making.
The T-shirts have a bound collar, a separate piece of material which uses three lines of stitching to attach it to the body. This stops the collar stretching out over time - compare it to a mainstream T-shirt, and it’s remarkable how flimsy the latter feels.
But it also uses a little technique to stop the collar being too stiff of bulky, which is putting the last line of stitching on the body, attaching only to the collar on the inside.
The cotton material is robust and will only get better the more it is washed and worn. However, I'd still recommend treating it as you would a dress shirt: wash cool and hang dry rather than tumble dry.
Also - rather like the PS oxfords - this dense and malleable material has some natural stretch from the way it’s woven. So after washing, don’t be afraid to give it a little stretch one way or the other, to gently add some length or width.
This is the same thing denim does after its washed, coming in a little and then going out as it’s worn again, adapting to the body. Doing this reshaping after washing is just accelerating that process.
(This attribute of fabric is something I’ll cover elsewhere, as I find it interesting and it's not something you really get with smarter clothing.)
The 'tapered T-shirt' as we're calling it, is available on the PS Shop now.
Here's the sizing detail, followed by a round-up of the product details. If anyone has any questions at all though, please do ask in the comments.
Sizing:
- The T-shirts fit like any regular tee in the body (from Sunspel for example) which all have a slight taper
- The only difference you will notice is that the chest is a little larger, and the shoulder seam slightly dropped. Both of which I find quite flattering
- In the images above, I am wearing a Medium, while Taka is wearing a Small
- However, I also like a Large for a slightly oversized look, and the nice thing about the taper is that it doesn’t look too big. I have shown a Large below
| X-small | Small | Medium | Large | X-large | XX-large | |
| Chest (pit to pit) | 49cm | 52 | 55 | 58 | 60 | 63 |
| Hem (bottom width) | 44 | 47 | 50 | 53 | 55 | 58 |
| Length (from back neck) | 60 | 62 | 64 | 66 | 68 | 70 |
Product details:
- 100% American raw cotton, spun into a 14-count yarn
- Although heavier than most mainstream T-shirts, this is a common weight for Japanese makes, which are designed for heavier duty and to retain their shape
- I find the weight is fine throughout the summer. You might feel the difference in a tropical country, or when it’s 35 degrees and above, but not otherwise
- Circular knitted, in Osaka, Japan, before being cut and sewn in the sides
- Wash cold and hang to dry
- There is little shrinkage, due to the density of the weave and the structure created by the side seams. But a small change, of a centimetre or so, can be changed with the reshaping after washing described above
- Available in white and navy - a soft, off-white and a washed-looking navy
- Cost £58 plus VAT
- Ships from London
- Available on the Permanent Style shop here
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Asket t-shirts are tapered. Have you not considered this brand?
Hi Voisy. Can I suggest you re-read the article? The point is that all normal T-shirts are tapered, but the kind of high-quality, circular knitted ones you get from Japanese brands are usually not.
Hi Simon, i notice in both pictures of you in the white t-shirt you have the sleeves turned up. Would it not have been an idea to make the sleeves shorter in length if indeed you prefer them like that? Rolled up t shirt sleevs can be fine but its a bit of a look and eppears somewhat messy in these pictures with the hem stiching visible and so on.
Hey Jim,
Thanks, yes I did think about that. The sleeves aren’t long anyway, so I think most people will find them fine on their own, without rolling up.
But I like the look of rolling up, not just for the length but for the extra detail and the fact it gives them a little taper at the end. I didn’t want to impose that on anyone though, nor make them permanently rolled up, as that looks quite fake when brands do it.
Let me know if any of that doesn’t make sense.
Thanks Simon, for me id rather not have to roll them up and i preffer a shorter sleeve as i find it more flatering. Not quite sure of the cut of this T-shirt is for me therefor.
Sure, no worries Jim. The sleeves aren’t long – I can get a measure for you if you’d like, to check
How very rock’n’roll of you…. are you not tempted to push a packet of Marlborough into the sleeve as well? 🙂
Ha! No even if that worked it would be a bit pointless given I don’t smoke!
Shirts (ordered) still a bargain but not as much as I thought as I forgot to factor in UK taxes and the site must have given me the tax free price based on my IP address location. Next question is when I will try them as it may be months before the next UK trip and I had them sent to my UK address. Always nice to have parcels waiting though. As for smoking, a friend of mine used to have a surf board attached to the roof of his car as he thought it made him look cool… he didnt surf, he didnt even swim, but he did like style.
Hey Gary,
Taxes are based on shipping destination, so it’s right that you were charged UK taxes on checkout. But we don’t show the price with VAT, because customers are so international and VAT varies rather in different locations. I hope that was clear.
I think the surf board goes firmly in the category of trying too hard!
It was always clear shipmate… it was only a comment, not a question. No worry.
Oh good. Cheers Gary
Months after ordering the t-shirts I was eventually united with them. Excellent, love them. Thanks.
Oh good, so pleased to hear
Hi Simon,
I liv in Sweden and when I tried to buy the shirt in the shop tax was added, is that correct? When I bought things from the UK recently (from Colhays for example) taxes was not added in the shop but a fee for taxes in Sweden was sent to me later from the delivery firm. Will I have to pay both UK tax and Swedish tax when I order from Permantent Style?
kind regards
André
Hi André,
That is correct, and no you won’t have to pay tax when the piece arrives in Sweden. You are not being charged UK tax at all, but Swedish tax at the point of sale. This means the piece can go straight through to you without the normal interaction with a courier.
looking again you appear to have rather sloping shoulders [i hope you dont mind me saying]. Mine are somewhat more square so the sleeve may finish higer up my arm?
I do, don’t worry it comes up a lot!
The sleeve may finish a little higher, yes.
Simon, I don’t know how you respond so politely to some of these comments… I was reading your article on your tattoo and the unwarranted feedback was really rude. Keep up the awesome work, I’m sorry you have to deal with people like this.
Thanks a lot Patrick.
What is the weigh of the fabric?
Good point Henry, let me check. As a general guide, it is similar to most circular-knitted tees of this type, which is almost double a thinner mainstream version (eg Sunspel)
These look/sound great Simon. I have a few brands of t-shirt that all work in a particular way but the most similar would be my Real McCoy t-shirts which make your new shirts look to be a real bargain. I think I will try them for sure.
Thanks Gary, good to know
Hi Simon,
A very good looking t-shirt. A informative article as well. I didn’t realise how much could go into what appears such a simple garment (although quite often the case with many innovations). Also it makes it clear as to the price point relative to some cheaper versions. Although that said it seems pretty consistent with higher end pricing and appears better quality and design.
The tight robust neckline is great if it stands up to wearing and washing- something which usually means many of mine end up as gardening garment and then cleaning cloth in fairly short order!
I for one really like navy T-shirts (never black!) worn on their own or under a casual (in my case various Belstaff styles) jacket.
Just a quick question mainly re the white as I didn’t really follow the point re the back of the neck- would it be suitable for under a shirt. Not a deal breaker either way- just something to I would take into consideration.
Thanks again for a great new garment and for another educational piece.
Thank you Stephen.
Yes, there is a lot that goes into them, particularly when the simplicity means there is so much focus on the material (as you also get with something fairly simple like a raglan donegal coat for instance).
I’m pleased you like the neckline, and yes it does stand up. Again given there’s so little going on with a T-shirt, that neckline’s position and keeping its shape is crucial I find.
On the back of the neck, sorry if that was confusing. Yes, you can certainly wear it under a shirt. My point was that T-shirts used to only be worn under shirts, and so the cut at the back of the neck didn’t really matter. But if you’re going to wear it on its own, then it does.
Any other questions let me know
Great product idea. Thanks, Simon. I know I’m a small in the Allevol Heavy Duty Crew Neck T-Shirt (and Sunspel). Would you recommend taking the same sizing for a regular fit (rather than the slightly oversized fit)? I was comparing chest measurements and they look a bit different.
Hi David,
Yes I would recommend the same sizing, even though the chest here is a little bigger than the original Allevol or the Sunspel
Thanks again, Simon. I’ve order one of each colour.
Sunspel t-shirts shrink.
I would definitely second this comment from Peter O.
I have about 8/9 of the Riveria tees and all have shrunk. Fortunately for me, they are all just about still wearable (I’m 1.84cm tall and 38 chest, take a Medium) but are now nowhere near the size stipulated on the website, particularly across the chest. For the record, I always wash on delicates, at 30C and line dry.
A Medium will still do for me but I am considering sizing up to a Large for a sightly more relaxed fit.
Hi Simon! I hope you’re keeping well, congrats on the new product launch. I have a couple of questions. What sort of shrinkage, if any, show we expect after the first wash? My Warehouse t-shirts have shrunk close to an inch in length after washing. I wonder if that is due to the circular knitted construction which might be alleviated on your product by the presence of the side seams?
Also, I’ve always found it strange that the navy on these types of t-shirts is very pale, washed-out, as you mention. Is there a particular reason for this? I’ve always wanted one in a proper navy colour, to create a bit of contrast with a well-worn pair of jeans.
Best,
Teo
Hi Teo,
There should be little or no shrinkage. You might find you lose 1cm or so in the length or width after washing, but as noted that comes back with wear, and you can give it a gentle stretch, a ‘reshape’ after washing too if you want.
But yes, the kind of shrinkage you’ve seen from the Warehouse ones is reduced by the presence of the side seams, because those seamless ones tend to grow outwards a little and as a result take the material upwards too.
The Warehouse ones are also a more open, loose and soft knit, which doesn’t help. This is firmer and denser.
On the navy, yes I think this colour is preferred because it’s more casual, where are real dark navy would be smarter. I know what you mean about getting a contrast with jeans, which is why I showed here how this colour looks great with a mid-blue jean, and also with cream, black, olive etc.
I hope that helps
“But the problem… is that they’re cut in a traditional (‘authentic’) shape, which is short and square.”
I can understand why garments may have been cut shorter in the past – as the average man was smaller due to lower standards of nutrition – but what was the reason for traditionally cutting t-shirts / shirts / jackets wide?
If anything, I’d have expected the reverse to be true as men living in western countries nowadays are more likely to be heavier than they were 60 – 70 years ago.
I think you might have missed the point about how they’re made Matt. The body is circular, made like a tube, so they have to be square – the waist has to be the same width as the chest.
Hello Simon, this is probably a really stupid question but I don’t know the answer and so I thought I’d ask anyway! Isn’t part of the appeal of a circular knit that they don’t have any seams up the side? Are you then losing that by cutting them in order to taper? Presumably the answer is that you feel that the overall fit is more important than a couple of seams?
Don’t worry Mark, it’s not a stupid question at all. Yes, part of the appeal of a circular knit is that lack of side seam. But, part is also the feel you get in the material from those machines making like that. Personally I’ve never noticed the fact that a T-shirt has a side seam or not when I’m wearing one, so that part of the appeal doesn’t matter to me
That’s great thanks Simon, I hadn’t appreciated that the circular knitting created a different feel.
Fantastic – both product and article really hit the T-shirt nerve. I’m sorely tempted! The thing that has always slightly deterred me from a few of the Japanese brands I’ve tried is the boxy shape; this t-shirt addresses that directly while keeping the heavy weight, slubbiness and robustness that is so widely admired. Perfect neckline, too.
For many years I was into Sunspel T-shirts. The classic ones are a little baggy on me, but the Riviera model I still think is great: precisely the right fit and proportions. As mentioned, they can seem a little dainty compared with Allevol or Warehouse, but they are nevertheless very resilient and have stood up well without any shape-loss or neck-sagging. Also, the article mentions it is hard to find quite the right pale grey marl type colour – I think Sunspel’s is close.
More recently I’ve been chasing the heftiness of Japanese makers that this product aims at. Have you tried 3Sixteen’s? Heavy but a more regular shape. A further mention might go to All Blues in Leeds, making under their own name. The sizing is generous (I’m normally large, but opted for small), but the weight and quality is good.
Otherwise, a couple of questions. Is the shoulder seam deliberately slightly lower/dropped. It looks so in some of the pictures; an effect you were aiming at, presumably? And, slightly more off-beam, did you contemplate a raglan shoulder at any time? Unusual, certainly, but can occasionally look appealing, I reckon.
Thanks SAO, really pleased you think so.
Yes, the shoulder is slightly dropped. I mention that briefly. It’s nothing extreme though, a centimetre or two beyond the shoulder bone.
I didn’t contemplate a raglan to be honest, because I think they can accentuate a round-shouldered look that you’re already getting a bit from a T-shirt. But they are nice, and sportier.
I really like the tightness of the neckline. It’s always the failure point on tees. They look great slightly baggy – reminds me of the heavy weight American tees of my youth. Although, they were always too large around the neck, if you wanted the slouch. The taper is a sensible solution.
If one notices in current media Russian military, one sees open collared shirts with high neck undershirts, so the historical research of men’s t-shirt might reveal its popularity in US uniform which influenced other countries’ military dress?
Have you got any plans to do a long sleeve version?
No, no plans. I’m not much of a fan of long-sleeved T-shirts to be honest
Hello Simon, that is interesting – I don’t particularly like short sleeved ones but never really thought about why. Thinking about it now I don’t really like short sleeved anything preferring just to pull sleeves up and don’t really wear a lot of tee-shirts anyway – the two I have are a dark navy and a dark grey which I tend to wear under a roll neck so perhaps it is just a question of comfort and praticality for me rather than style.
Kind regards
Mark
Sounds like it Mark, yes, and a T-shirt like this is more designed for wearing on its own rather than just as a layer under a roll neck
Given the level of detail and quality £58 is a good price point. Especially given how ‘brands’ put their lettering at the front and sell t-shirts of inferior quality for more .
A couple of questions
1 for those with some extra ‘weight’ around the waist how will the taper look ? Are these suited to more athletic builds ?
2 how long would such an item of clothing last ? I know this is a tricky question but probably easier answered for a simpler piece as a t-shirt . Is the cloth and colour resilient enough last at least 5 yrs ?
Thanks. Bear in mind there’s your local VAT on top of that too.
1. The point on the fit is that it’s similar to a normal T-shirt, so they should fit the same as other (non circular-knitted) T-shirts you have. Those suit most people and are more average. I also tried them on a good few friends who aren’t so slim, and the fit was fine. But compare the measurements to tees you already own if you want to be sure.
2. You’re right, it is a tricky question, because it depends hugely on how often they’re worn. Also on lifestyle, and if you’re good at preventing stains and so on. But I’d say they could certainly last five years, yes. The material and make are both strong enough for that.
Hi Simon, could you explain (or give a link) how it is circular knitting that gives the fabric “so much body, and such a nice hand compared to regular tees”.
My go to t-shirt is from the Dutch brand NoLabel and is, I believe, not circularly knitted, but also has a very nice heft to it (https://www.nolabel.com/product-kaos-plain-cotton-in-light-grey), which is why I like it – not at all like underwear. Of course, it is made in China and has no romantic artisanal backstory to it, which I however admittedly don’t really care about as long as production is fair and the product quality is good.
Speaking about NoLabel and some other similar quasi-startups (Asket etc.), what they often do is provide a cost breakdown (in this case indicating that the raw cost of the t-shirt is EUR 6.10). Have you ever thought of doing something similar for your own products? I think it fits well in the overall theme of sustainability and corporate transparency.
Thanks Ferdinand. Sure, I can do something in the future, that would be a nice article. The key is the slower speed often that those machines are knitting at.
On cost breakdown, that’s certainly an interesting topic and one we have covered before with tailoring for example. I find it can be a little misleading in terms of cost of design, the time involved, the research and prototyping, that goes into a piece that is as unusual as this. But I’ll see how it looks.
Simon,
Nice addition to the PS line-up. I see the t-shirts are “raw cotton.” Any idea of how much you expect these to shrink and where (ie chest, length) considering the circular knit? Apologies if you mentioned this above and I missed it.
Thanks,
JAW
You didn’t, but I’ve addressed it in a comment above. Have a look there, and I’ll add something to the article as well. Thanks for the suggestion
Hi Simon,
Great looking T-Shirts, how would you say they compare to a Merz B Schwanen 214 (if you have experience of those). I would be interested if you know what make the ivory pleated chinos that Taka is wearing (in the first photo) are?
Thanks,
Alan
I think I’ve tried those, and remember the neckline being quite low for my taste, but I’m afraid that’s a vague memory!
The chinos are Full Count
Nice one Simon. I have bought a few t shirts from Full Count and I find them to be less boxy than the usual Japanese tees. I hope you do these in more colours for the future. Hint: Gray and Olive please.
Thanks Joe. Yes the Full Count ones are still tubular, but I think a little smaller on the chest and waist, and a touch longer.
Grey is not possible with this make, as described in the piece. But noted on olive
Hi Simon, look great bud advice on sizing, if you wouldn’t mind. I’m 6ft, 41in chest and 33in waist. I prefer slightly snug over baggy. What would be your call?
Can I suggest comparing the measurements to a T-shirt you already own? It’s so much more reliable that way
Another timely release! I was eyeing up the Allevol t-shirts at Clutch just yesterday in line with your previous review and recommendations, but the refinements here seem difficult to forgo. Based on the chest measurements, I have sized down for my order – I’ll report back if this turned out to be a mistake!
OK. Do check the hem measurement compared to one you already have as well
Maybe ‘sized down‘ is a bit misleading, if only because I’ve learnt to follow measurements over sizes, and I’ve always been a little suspicious of your equation of medium with a 40” chest size. But nevertheless, I take a large in the Dartmoor which fits flatteringly and snug, and my mediums in this tee arrived today and fit ideally. By no means tight or small; the taper is flattering but subtle. The only comment an observer might make is on the length, but I’m 6’4” and favour higher rise trousers so this is both inevitable and not actually a problem. A large for me would definitely have the oversized look you mention in the piece.
The neckline is superb, by far the most flattering of any tee I’ve tried, and the heavyweight fabric is soft, smooth and also rather subtle – it doesn’t look unusual to the untrained eye. I’m thrilled, once again, to have a new PS design in my wardrobe!
Fantastic, thanks Josh!
Hey Simon, what’s the weight of the fabric?
Another reader asked above – I’m just confirming
Hi,
So what is the weight?
Simon,
Apologies if I’ve missed it in the article but on style perspective, I’m guessing this t-shirt is designed to be worn untucked? I have a liking for Sunspel’s Riviera t-shirt and that is 70cm in body length in the size M. The PS tee is only 66cm in the size M and I usually struggle to tuck in the Riviera should i want to treat it as a undergarment over say a sweater. Height is a factor I guess. I’m 1.84m tall but I believe you’re a similar height so should be in good position to relate. All advice appreciated. Many thanks.
Thanks JSB, good point.
Yes, the length was designed to look right untucked, as I know that’s how the vast majority of readers wear them (without a knit over the top) and often others are too long to my eye.
However, I also wear this under knitwear and I find it’s OK. But it probably depends as much on trouser rise as height – mine are all what I’d call a mid-rise, or a touch higher.
Will the t-shirt be ok if tumble dried? I like the concept of high-quality tees. But having to cold wash and hang dry kind of kills them for me. Tees, unlike dress shirts, require a lot more washing since they’re worn directly on the body, often in warm weather. They’re workhorses. It’’s be ideal to just toss them into the dryer. So how will the product hold up under those conditions? I’ll note that I regularly tumble dry my cheap, mainstream t-shirts and they hold up fine. But my expensive Informale t-shir wrinkled and the collar folded and creased in unsightly ways. How will this product react? Thanks.
It won’t react like that, but it will shorten its life a bit. In the end it’s not what it’s designed for.
Perhaps it’s a question of local culture, but most people I know wear shirts against the body and so wash those just as often.
In fact, actually a heavier cotton like this will take on sweat and smells etc less than a thinner cotton or a finer dress shirt. I often find with fabrics like this T-shirt one or the PS oxford fabric, that I can wear them two days in a row. But then I don’t sweat that much.
So if I understand correctly, washing and tumble-drying will reduce the life of the product somewhat but won’t really affect its appearance (at least not for a few years)? Thanks, as always
I haven’t tried it myself, so I can’t say for sure, and as it’s not how the material is designed to be treated, it’s just going to be a bit risky. I think I should say that if you’re not going to care for it in that way, it’s best not to buy it.
I’m happy to care for it properly, I just wanted to better understand the consequences of tumble-drying. Thanks.
Ok, thanks
Tumble drying Sunspel means immediate and probably more shrinkage than by drying by clothes line. Among all my clothesline hung clothes, Sunspel t-shirts dry first, esp. when during drying time turned inside out.
Ironically I once tried to shrink a sunspel heavy weight tshirt by this method after losing weight and the swine held its shape despite breaking all the rules.
Peaked at 90 degree wash and high heat tumble for two hours and came out untouched. Sturdy t-shirt!
Simon, please tell us more about that zipped wool jacket.
The brown one? That’s a hand-knit Cowichan-style cardigan from RRL, last season
This is a beautiful sweater!
this beautiful cardigan is currently on sale here:
https://www.breuninger.com/de/marken/rrl/strickjacke/1001243007/p/?variant=229a725dffb564f068831cf0823f3b78
unfortunately, there is only XL left, so too big for me… and I’m afraid they only ship to Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Poland, as it seems.
But for some, this might be a tempting bargain (however, still expensive)
Simon, thanks for the fit comparison with Sunspel. As my t-shirt of choice is the Sunspel Riviera size large, may I assume a large would be appropriate for me in this model? By the way, your cardigan and the purple label Harrington look fabulous!
Thank you Scott, and yes a Medium should be good
Thanks, I’ll order the medium then.
Nice idea, Simon, they look great.
I have a couple of the Allevol tees so can personally vouch for their quality. The fabric is a ‘dry’ fabric similar to Barns tees which they remind me of.
There are a few Japanese brands that produce tubular knitted tees with side seams – UES make some really lovely ones although I’m not sure if they’re tapered but they’re quite slim fitting and have some natural stretch – the fabric is slightly different to most tubular knit tees – very soft.
Nice Matty, that’s true, it is a dry handle and was specifically developed to be similar to those old American sportswear tees.
Thanks, I hadn’t seen the UES ones. The only ones I’d seen previously was a Flat Head style, but they haven’t done that for ages.
Not that I’m trying to discourage people from buying this t shirt but I have a circular Real McCoy’s t shirt (no side seams) and although I’m both tall and slim it really doesn’t look boxy or square on me at all. It’s slightly shorter in the body than most t shirts, but I think that’s actually an advantage as the hem line will stay above a short jacket like a bomber jacket or valstarino when it’s untucked.
Hi Simon,
What a nice surprise to read this article today! I’ve been looking for quality t-shirts for about a year and was never quite ready to pull the trigger on t-shirts of similar quality, as I don’t like the boxy aesthetic of the traditional cut. This looks much better!
I wasn’t quite sure what size (I am a medium in the PS Oxford shirt, but a small in the Donegal Overcoat – 6’0″ and 160lbs if that helps), so I have ordered both sizes to try on.
I should mention I feel very confident in ordering “blindly” from your site, as I have always had really good service from your team and trust the quality of the products you are putting out.
That’s so nice to hear Matthew, thank you
Matthew, I think we’re long-lost twins! I’m the same height/weight and also take PS Oxfords in M and the Donegal Overcoat in S. I ordered these tees in S for what it’s worth.
MBB355,
How did the Small work out?
Simon, I found my own measurements of the length a fair bit shorter than the table (measuring from the seam with the sleeve). I get 60cm for the Small and 62cm for the Medium. By comparison most of my t-shirts are 66-68cm. The chest and hem are consistent all around.
I think for that reason I’ll go with the Medium. Curious to know what others found.
Quality is there, of course. And I really like the higher rise at the back of the neck!
Cheers Matthew. The measurement is from the top of the shoulder seam, where it meets the collar, rather than the sleeve with the seam. Good to have feedback on how you’re finding the length though
Another great looking product – but these have flown out of the shop, at least in the medium navy that I would like. Do you think there will be a restock any time soon? I’ve joined the waiting list.
They have Clive. I was a bit worried about it, but they’ve flown. It wasn’t a small order either.
We will restock, but it will be a good two or three months at least I think.
Im quite tall and would need about 74 cm in the large og medium. So a shame. Would you know a brand that do long but slim versions? (i realize I would forego tapering)
any suggestions much appreciated
I don’t Ole, sorry
I have several Japanese tees but I rarely wear them due to the points you have listed. I love the quality and feel of them but when it all comes around the fit is just off as they are way too boxy. I have a large chest and shoulders and it is just not a flattering look how much I try.
They flew of the shelf! I wish I had checked the site earlier today. It’s a fantastic idea Simon. I have a few warehouse t-shirts and the waist is too wide, particularly so because I have to size up as they’re quite short.
I’ve added myself to the waiting list. My only suggestion is that you go for as many standard colours as possible!
Hi Simon
Please can you let me know where the patterned cardigan (not the ribbed shawl neck) you are wearing in some of the photographs. I may be going word blind but can’t find in the text. Possibly RRL?
Also any idea where something similar could be currently sourced?
Best.
That’s a Cowichan-style cardigan from RRL. Last season.
You don’t see them too much here, but there’s a great Canadian company that does them, Kanata.
Hi Simon,
Thanks and thanks also for your earlier reply on the T-shirt questions.
No Man Walks Alone carries them – I’ve got one that Taylor Stitch made in collaboration with Kanata. Truly special handknit garments: https://nomanwalksalone.com/collections/kanata
Thanks for link Dan. Something I really appreciate about the PS community. You guys always share where to source hard to find stuff. And yes, the T’s flew off the shelves. Hopefully I can get one with the restock.
Already sold out in Navy XXL? Wow.
Will there be a v-neck version of this? I’m curious about the fabric quality. I have both circular and regular knits in various thicknesses and have never heard of the claim that the former is able to achieve a fabric quality the latter isn’t.
No, no plans for a V-neck version.
In terms of quality, I’m not the expert here, Taka is, but my understanding is that a circular knit is usually slower in particular, which helps a lot in achieving particular qualities
Hi Simon, these look great – any chance of stocking them at Clutch? Best,
Daniel
Perhaps in the future Daniel, yes
A contentious subject but…. “designed in London”?
With the backlash against production in China, Bangladesh etc it seems increasingly common for brands to declare a design location rather than manufacture on their labels and I see this item declares it was designed in London.
The article on one hand suggests a collaborative approach with multiple Japanese producers before finally landing on a design with Take but did they all really come over to London to work on a design with you or is there more poetic license in leveraging the declaration it was designed in London?
I hope you take the post in the spirit of debate its intended rather than attack
Thanks Bob. To be honest I didn’t even think about that. It was just what the Allevol tees already had
Ordered and it will be my first ‘expensive’ tee so I’ll be interested to see how it measures up. On a separate note: “the same thing denim does after its washed” should surely be “it’s”?
Hey Simon any insight regarding Allevol’s manufacturing having decent ethical standards in their production?
Saw this blog post 12hrs ago but wanted to order for my brothers as well but by the time I confirmed their sizes everything was gone. Have put myself on the wait list.
I know Taka has spoken highly of the Eiji factory and how they work, but I don’t know anything specific about labour standards. Like Europe though, there is much more regulation around that in Japan than in China or south-east Asia though
what other releases are coming in the the next 6/12 months ? ( I like to plan my purchases) any plans to restock the darker denim shirt or the material ? Thanks
The darker denim material will be back, but not the shirt.
We did send out a seasonal round-up email to shop customers – perhaps ask the support team to send it to you as well. They’re [email protected]
I’m getting one in White. Period. What size would you recommend for me considering the fact I wear PS Shirts in size S. I intend to wear this with my jeans as a stand alone piece in summers and under my RRL Jacquard overshirt/knitwear in winters.
Probably an S as well, but check both the chest and hem measurements against a tee you already own
Also Simon by reading this it seems to me that I can also wear this under my PS Oxford’s/Everyday Denim shirts? Then I wouldn’t have to buy another t-shirt from Hamilton & Hare for the reason mentioned above. Please let me know. Thanks Simon.
They are much thicker than the H&H ones, so it depends on how much you like having thicker layers like that.
Hi Simon – what are the chinos you’re wearing in the 4th picture from the top? Slightly straw coloured with the pleats
That’s the gurkha version of the old Armoury chinos. To be honest I don’t like the way they’re finished at the top, but my normal Armoury chinos were in the wash!
Thank you
These really are cracking, Simon. I truly hope they become a PS staple.
You’ve mentioned consistently, there is space for this heavier version as a distinct category. I saw an IG post from Rivet and Hide last year, I think the model was wearing your Flat Head version, but the fraying around the neckline etc. was amazing. Regular high street tees just don’t age like this. This along with my growing love for Japanese constructed fabrics and I’ve been trying to find the right one since.
I tried one from The Real McCoy’s last spring, in a very similar navy. The sleeves were just a tad too short for me though, however I think you’ve solved this with the slightly lower shoulder. The PS tapered tee seems perfect. On the waiting list, think I’ll go with navy first for this summer. Love the denim + double navy, one of my staple outfits in mild/warmer weather. Also looks great with olive chinos/fatigues as you mention, something about navy and olive works on many levels.
Well I went to the PS shop to order both colors in medium and both are sold out! Wow, good stuff goes quickly; on waiting list now.
Thanks, and sorry Scott. I think it was the fastest-selling thing we’ve ever done
These look fantastic. The white in medium is already gone. Would it be possible to get a sleeve opening measurement for the medium? I have slimmer arms and wide sleeve opening only enhances my scrawniness.
Sure, I’ll do that – lucky it’s a medium as it’s a size I own, the stock ones have all gone!
when do you expect to restock M?
Summer hopefully
Hi Simon – most of the tees in white look to be sold out already. Is that right?! If so, any restocks soon?
It is, sorry David, they went really fast.
We are restocking, hopefully for the summer. A waiting list is building up too that it might be worth joining, through the form on the website
Very interesting addition to your product range, Simon. Unfortunately M size in white already sold out. Any plan to produce a new batch?
Yes, hopefully by summer we’ll have some more
Such a shame that medium shirts in both colours seem to have sold out within a day or so. I guess it’s hard to predict how popular an item will be.
Will there be another run anytime soon? With summer on the way, I’m sure they wouldn’t hang around.
Yes, we’re ordering it now, and it should be here in early summer hopefully. You’re right, it’s so hard to know with new products
It’s funny, I always found navy t-shirts a lot more useful and versatile than white ones. These look great, only issue is I’m not sure they’re quite long enough, being a few cm shy of 2 meters tall..
I have been looking for good quality T-Shirts that don’t mis-shape and these look great. The trouble is although I’m 5’9″, Proportionally, I’m 6′ from the waist up. Any T-shirt less than 68cm in length looks like a crop top on me after one wash.
I’ve wasted quite a bit of money on expensive T-Shirts (and also Sunspel Riviera Polos) only to discard of them within a few months as I’m uncomfortable having my midriff on show.
So far the only 100% cotton T-Shirts I have found that don’t shrink or twist are from Reiss or H&M.
Its possible the Large will just fit lengthwise, as long as it stays that length, but at 58cm pit-to-pit, its going to be pretty baggy around my chest which is 40″.
By the way, great blog and thanks for replying to a lot of your comments. It does help.
One last thing, I’m turning 40 this month and trying to dress more like a grown up. It would be great to see you do a follow up on your Family post, ideally covering Dad’s casual style. For example what to wear to kids birthday parties, to the park (in all seasons), taking the kids to myriad of lessons etc…
Thanks Steve. Did you see the one about a weekend capsule wardrobe too?
I did and that has helped.
I have a party this weekend and am planning chambray shirt, raw denim jeans and suede trainers/or desert boots.
However, I’m not sure crawling around a ball pit and on the floor in a shirt is going to be too much fun.
I would be great to have an update to that capsule which covers some more options for what you wear for the school run/children’s parties.
Any thoughts on the 58cm pit to pit dimension for your large T-Shirt. Will that be too blousy for a 40″ chest?
Thanks
Steve
I’m a 39 inch chest, so have a look at the picture of me in the large and see what you think?
A chambray shirt should be comfortable enough to move around in really. I guess only not if it’s quite fitted.
But sure, I can do something for more rugged things
Thanks Simon
I look forward to it.
Steve.
Look at the Dutch brand G Star(everyone is tall over here) Their basic white tees have a long back length. Just double check 100% cotton as some have elastane.
Thanks Peter, I’ll take a look. Its not a brand I’ve ever considered as it brings back memories of shopping centres, baggy jeans on the hip and big logos. But for a basic Tee it could be ok
Simon – looks like nearly all sizes in the white are sold out already. Any restock coming soon?
Not soon, but we should have one by early summer.
Hi Simon, Apologies in advance for a slightly odd question. The concept is truely interesting. However, I find labels at the neck of most tshirts a little itchy and uncomfortable – detracting from the inherent softness and comfort of a Tee. So, I remove them. Is this feasible with this tshirt without causing damage?
Yes, if done carefully. Use a stitch picker
The year is 2027. The PS x Real McCoy’s M65 in Dark Brown drops in two days.
I’m awaked by dawn’s amber rays reflected in the pop-up shop window. I fold my PS camp chair and cast a backward glance at the line-up. Flannel-clad figures shuffle against the damp pavement. A congregation. I draw the tweed of my coat close against a cold gust. The man next to me casts an envious glance. Aren’t you glad for those cashmere-lined pockets, he says. We exchange a friendly glance. Only two more days.
This is absolutely sensational, bravo sir.
Hi Simon. I’ve washed mine recently and I see that the care instructions have a setting for ironing, but it also says to use a press cloth. Should I be doing this through a tea-towel? Also should they be pressed instead of “ironed”?
No, it’s fine without a tea towel I find, and ironing is fine. If anything I’d just say don’t use the very highest temperature on the iron – some are pretty high and the only danger the tea towel avoids is making the cotton a little shiny with a high heat
Hi, Simon.
I just received my t-shirts, and I have to say: My hunt for the perfect tee has stopped. You have designed it. I could have gone with an L, but went with an XL. The wider shoulder and tapered waist accentuates a more manly physique, which I don’t think the L would on my body. I also think the Large does the same on you, compared to the M.
So the larger size looks best when worn on it’s own, IMHO. The smaller size might sit better underneath a shirt.
I can’t wait for the restock, and hopefully a version in grey as well. I will stock up on these.
Thanks
Amazing, thanks so much for letting us know H
Could someone who has received a medium and someone who has received a large please share shoulder measurements of the shirts? Thanks!
Hello Simon,
Received my navy and white in a small a few days ago. I will just say that I cannot see how “normal” T-shirts are ever going to interest me again. The weight and density of the fabric makes such a difference. Absolutely perfect.
Some questions:
1) I will restock these as well, but will you also be doing any other colours in the future?
2) How do these compare with the Warehouse ones at Clutch in terms of not feeling flimsy like other normal T-shirts? If the Warehouse ones have similar “substantial” feel to them I will add some of those before summer.
(Unrelated)
3) Trunk Moxon short and long sleeved polos to wear over the summer. How’s the quality and are they worth the cost? Any general thoughts and what you might see as better alternatives.
4) Are Fedeli Polos any good (also stocked at trunk)
5) Which are better – Trunk or Fedeli)?
6) The PS Friday button down cotton polo – can it be worn untucked as well as tucked in?
Thanks in advance.
Yash
Thanks Yash, that’s so nice to hear.
1) Hopefully one other colour, though not a grey as mentioned
2) The Warehouse are more substantial than high-street ones, but the material is much softer, a bit more open. And the collar and the body cut are obviously rather different.
3) I haven’t tried them I’m afraid.
4) Yes, always worn those. Lovely summer piece – less so under a jacket, but great with linen trousers, shorts etc
5) See above
6) No, it’s made to be tucked in only. I’d say go for that one under a jacket or to tuck in, the Fedeli for much more casual
Hi Simon,
1)Noted. Looking forward to seeing that new colour and adding it.
2)Ok. This sounds like they will be worth getting a couple of them.
3) Ok.
4). Perfect. Will pick up some Fideli next week when in town. I have a couple of stops I want to make (A&S, Clutch) and will add Trunk to the route.
5) Ok
6) Ok great, will get both and utilise accordingly.
If I do pick up the Trunk Moxons, I will post thought on here both initial thoughts and after some wear and washing.
Re your finest short sleeve wool polos – do you think I would be a size small (36chest)?
As ever, very helpful, thanks Simon.
Yash
No worries Yash.
On the Finest Polo, best to compare the measurements to a polo you already own if you can?
Thanks Simon.
Will the Finest Polo be coming back into stock soon in all colours?
Any new colours?
Thanks.
Yash
Yes Yash, it will actually be back in a matter of days. You’ll get an email first of all from the support team, if you’re on a waiting list
Perfect, thanks Simon.
In case you are taking suggestions for colours, something bright like the salmon Warehouse one you reviewed would be welcomed by me! A t-shirt is a great way to add some colour in a subtle way i.e. compared to bright outerwear, jumpers, trousers etc.
True John. We’ll look at that colour as well
Hi Simon, was just wondering if you have decided on the new colour, if you can share?
I just started wearing a Real McCoys loopwheel t-shirt that i purchased over the winter and have encountered the same issue that led you to this tapered version; the hem is too large, and balloons-out further with wear (though contacts after washing). I have the navy PS tapered t-shirt waiting at my parents house in the UK, and cannot wait to wear it this summer. In someways it’s surprising that none of the Japanese makers tried this already, though i am equally not surprised that they didn’t want to cut it down the seams after production; perhaps that would be at odds with Japanese sensibilities.
Anyway, great example of a PS product that gives us something new while being extremely useful.
Thanks John – yes, the new colours will be a nice faded black.
Pleased to hear you think it’s such a good idea. Some brands have done it in the past, such as The Flat Head, but I think most don’t because they’re aiming for a more original, repro style, rather than something more modern.
Faded black sounds intriguing (and not something i would have thought of), looking forward to the release!
a curious question.. in my, admittedly, lower quality garment experience, the darker the colour, the faster it fades… especially on cotton. so why not make just navy and black and let it fade naturally?
Darker colours do often fade faster Martins, but it depends a lot on the dyeing and the material. Some will be pretty much colourfast.
Generally T-shirts like this are washed anyway during the production process, so there’s nothing to be gained by waiting for that to happen when the customer washes it.
Hi Simon,
Is the faded black you mention above the one that’s showing up as ‘black’ on the current shop listing? Or will next weeks new shipment actually have a separate ‘faded black’ option.
In any case, I notice there’s no pictures of the black- don’t suppose you’d have any available?
Cheers
Eoghan
Hey,
They are the same, yes, it’s a faded black but we just call it black. When they become available again there will be pictures of it
Hi Simon,
Gotta love a good T-shirt but following up on our discussion about them jeans. I’ve noticed you wearing one (or several) pair of vintage Levis jeans. I’ve been trying to search around without luck to find more information about the wash and fit. I was curious if you could elaborate a bit on the ones you have or had. The wash looks really nice and soft, and just what I’m looking for. What about the fit in general and in particular the rise and width around the thighs as well as the leg opening? Which model is it, and how would I go about finding a pair? Ebay?
I’ve been wearing mostly MTM jeans in Candiani demin as well as models from Zaremba (not sure about the fabric there).
Thankful for any insights you can bring on this topic.
Hey Niklas,
Finding good vintage jeans is hard and often expensive. It’s great to do as a side project, and browse vintage places like Le Vif, Broadway & Sons, Hang-Up Vintage, Rag Parade and Wooden Sleepers. But I wouldn’t say it’s something you should look to for finding a core wardrobe piece – it’s just too unpredictable.
One example – there is no wash on these jeans, that’s just how they have worn down from raw over many years. You often can’t pick a particular wash, it’s more just a question of being inspired by something. And I wouldn’t necessarily look to models either, simply have a list of the rise, thigh and opening you want, and keep an eye out.
You’re also very likely to need them altering in some way – I always do. See here for details on that.
Finally, for something more available today, have a look at my Full Count ones here.
Thanks Simon, this was helpful. Having a few go-to places to look for these is very valuable. It’s not really a core wardrobe item but as you mentioned, something to do on the side. I will re-read the links you provided and perhaps there’s more room for discussion after that.
Best,
Sounds good Niklas
Hi Simon,
just received my white T shirt and whilst I’ve got used to pretty high expectations from PS, this has simply smashed the ball out of the park! Ridiculously comfortable the fit is absolutely spot on. I dithered over M or L and subsequently missed out entirely. Mine was obviously a return. Anyway, the L is perfect. I’m 6ft, 41in chest and 33in waist. The cotton had such a dense and substantial feel that I sense the fit would still feel perfect even if I was a 40 or 42 in chest. Tell me that you have already decided to have these in permanent stock in the future. And a black and dark olive would be perfect. On another note, is there anything you can reveal yet, about your upcoming summer coat/jacket? I’ve got my eye on something but am holding off for this…
So pleased to hear it Richard, and noted on the colours, thank you.
Nothing I can say about the jacket no, sorry…
Simon, great t-shirts. I bought both of them and am impressed with the design and quality. The weight of the t-shirts is fine even in the heat of Singapore. Keep it up and I look forward to new colourways in the future.
Nice, thanks Jonathan!
Hello Simon. I just received my Tapered T-shirt in size S. This is my first hand experience of a Japanese T-shirt and I’m extremely pleased with the fit and the quality (I’m actually lounging in this Tee as I write this), extremely comfortable and this combination of comfort, fit and sizing makes it a great Tee and great buy for me personally. I’ve owned T-shirts in the past from the likes of M&S (they develop holes in them over a period of time), UCB and couple of other makers, but this is quite something else altogether. Thank you Simon.
https://youtu.be/tIdJqysEavg
Well done Simon! Could you please elaborate on the choice of a ribbed collar vs a plain one? I find plain collars more dressy. Are there other considerations than style? Thank you.
A rib is often stronger, and indeed some would argue for a diagonal rib, though I think that’s not really necessary.
I can see that a plain collar would be dressier, but this isn’t really trying to be dressy at all.
Hi Simon, must congrats to you for a wonderful launch. My friend is lucky to receive it in the first launch. I was wondering if there is a plan for restock of the Taper T-Shirt anytime soon. Was looking to get mine and with the Finest Polo Shirt. Thank you
Thank you. Yes, we should have more in the summer
Hi Simon,
I have been using my White and Navy t a lot the past month. They are fantastic and easily the best t shirts I own!
Not related to the shirts at all, but I can’t get over how good that suede blouson looks. If you ever decide to do another Suede jacket in the future, please do a Navy raglan!
Thanks D, so nice to hear on the T-shirts, and noted will do!
I’ll actually be happy, if you do both.
I missed last year dark brown Valstar, and hopefully this year I’ll be able to get it.
Hello Simon. How many T-Shirts would you recommend in my wardrobe as I intend to wear it casually regularly with my Jeans as summer staples and with layers in winters. I already have two Japanese tees in white and I’m looking at Japanese navy tee as my second best option.
I guess it depends what you mean by regularly, but I’d imagine three to five would be fine. I’d suggest one or two thinner ones, perhaps a white and a grey, for largely wearing as under layers in colder months
Hey Simon, can I ask when we might expect (roughly) these beauties to land back in the shop? I’m on the list but now realise as things heat up I’ve shot myself in the foot not pulling the trigger first time around.
They should be July. On track so far
Simon, I would like to really commend you on these. Many of my family and friends have commented on how nice the T-shirts look despite being deceptively simple. Are you planning to add new colours any time soon?
Thank you Jonathan, that’s lovely to hear.
Yes, we will be restocking in the next week or so actually, and adding a nice, slightly faded black. Good to get on the waiting list though – it’s big already.
Hello, Simon.
I have a question about the fabric’s stretch during wear: as it is a heavy T-shirt, does it stretch at all, or is it a very stiff fabric that doesn’t stretch? I’m not sure if I convey my meaning well, but some T-shirts have much more stretch the way they are woven than others. E.g. the more stretchy/loosely woven ones are easier to put on and off and you stretch it over yourself to get in while the tighter ones are stiffer and you have to force yourself inside it so to say.
Thanks,
S
It doesn’t stretch that much, no, because of the density, but I wouldn’t call it stiff either. It has a lot of body, because it is made very slowly. You can stretch it a little quite naturally as a result, but it won’t stretch a lot when you just put it on
I have just received the t shirt,
I must say that 80 pound (included tax and shipping) for a t shirt can be consider as a luxury good.It s being say “you get what you paid”.This quote really can be used for the t shirt once I feel and try on the t shirt.The quality and the fitting is much better than any regular t shirt on the market.Even though,you compare it to a loop-wheel garment,the quality of the fabric might be similar but you wont get the fit.
I would highly recommend it and perhaps become an essential of any men who are looking for a good quality of t-shirt.
As i have a athletic body,the only area that i could be fix to get a really perfect fit is back area.I wish i could be a little bit bigger to get rid out of the wrinkle.However,i understand if the back is bigger it s less likely to fit most people so it s acceptable.
Thank you for let me sharing my thought here.
Thanks Guy, that’s great to hear, and useful feedback too
I picked up one of these in the new run and I must say you have absolutely knocked it out the park with this design.
The fit and materials are first class and it feels more “constructed” than your typical t-shirt. As you mention in the article, t-shirts often feel very flimsy and more like underwear than something you would wear on their own, but this has a structure to it that feels more like knitwear or a dress shirt. I somehow feel more “dressed” wearing it with jeans or shorts than I do in my go to Muji tees.
Although the fabric is probably a bit heavy for high-summer, on balance I feel it will probably be more versatile and wearable across the year.
My only issues is the damn things sold out so fast – I was hoping to grab a few once I was sure I had the correct size. Is it too early to ask if a restock is in the pipeline?
So, so lovely to hear that Stuart, thanks. We are asking about a restock now!
really agree on this! feels so much more than “normal” t-shirt. just let’s see how it behaves in my washing machine a year down the line! if it’s still good, I’m getting one each colour next year!
the only downside being. I have a size bigger neck and head than normal so the collar is borderline uncomfortably high and small. but at the same time still… soft? in comparison one old superdry t-shirt I have has similarly high and small collar opening, but it’s very sharp and uncomfortable.
Simon, you’ve done it once again. My t-shirts arrived earlier today, immediately I put on the navy and I’m wearing the white, this evening as I write this. These really are something special. Big thanks to both you and Taka.
The details, the details, the details, from that fabric to the taper, perfect. I don’t think you could find another t-shirt collar like this if you tried, especially at the back of the neck, which you can only really appreciate when you get that side view of someone wearing it (myself, in the mirror in this case). The way it’s going to age and ever so slightly fray over time, amazing. Typical PS level details.
Interestingly, when I first saw these a few months back, I wasn’t sure how I’d wear the sleeves. Now that I’ve had the chance to try them for a day, although the sleeves are fine as they are, I can see why you choose to roll the sleeve hem, it transforms it in to something else. It evokes images of those classic 50’s photo’s, perhaps a little military as well, but in a clean contemporary version. What I can really appreciate, thanks to both the dense fabric and cut of the sleeves, those sleeve rolls stay put, all day. Bravo, sir.
Ps. will the black restock?
Amazing, thanks so much CK, and lovely to know all those details are appreciated.
We are looking at when we could get a restock now, which will include the black yes.
Hi Simon – do the t-shirts shrink a bit with washing?
Hey – see product details section above
Hi Simon, I received mine today. They are great. Just 2 questions:
1) I plan to wash it with “normal” mode in washer. 40 degrees. Is it fine? Just like what I did with warehouse.
2) why don’t you add pocket to it?
Thanks
1) I’d recommend being a little more gentle with it. 30 degrees, not too high a spin.
2) I like the cleaner look without a pocket myself.
Thank you for your quick reply.
Just out of curiosity – why do we need to be a bit gentle in washing? Because the shape or size will change otherwise?
Yes, there shouldn’t be much shrinkage, but it’s more likely at higher temperatures.
Hi Simon,
I received my t-shirts earlier this week in navy and white, and have to say first up, they are a lovely product. I missed out on the first round being too slow to place my order in checking the dimensions against my Sunspel Riveria’s. Just a few observations from me:
When the black come back into stock in my size, I am quite likely to buy that too.
Once again, well done on a great product.
Thank you JSB, all good to know.
On the sleeves, you could try folding them back once, as I do, just to see if you like that look.
Hi Simon,
I did try folding back the sleeves before posting the original comment in this string, but from a personal style perspective, I don’t think that option is for me. I also don’t like the inside stitching on show, which when compared to the outer stitching, the latter of which is tidier.
Many thanks for the suggestion though.
No worries, it’s certainly not for everyone
Hi! Sadly missed out on the restock, but bought two of the original ones. Echoing that it’s by far the best t-shirt ever made.
Any more info on restock? Also would love to have a grey version.
Thanks
Thanks, yes we’re working on a grey but that would have to be a loopwheel to get the melange, so it will be a new factory and will take a bit longer to develop.
We’re just confirming the date for a restock now. Should be mid-Autumn hopefully.
Hi Simon, my t-shirts arrived yesterday. For reasons known only to them, Royal Mail took two weeks to deliver them to my London address. I’d given up hope so was delighted to find the package on my doorstep when I got home! (Incidentally, huge thanks to Lucas for bearing with me, and his own efforts to find out what RM had done with them).
To echo what others have said, they’re by far the best t-shirts I’ve ever had. I’ve long been a fan of Sunspel’s Riviera model, but this is several notches up. Everything about it is en pointe: the fit, the material, the shades of navy and white. My favourite element might be the collar: robust enough to withstand even grabby baby and toddler hands!
It really elevates the standard t-shirt, without being screamingly obvious. In fact, it strikes me that it might be more or less everything you’ve been saying about casual clothing – higher quality, better fit, considered details, subtle and elegant in its casualness – encapsulated in one of the most humble garments in the male wardrobe. I’ll be wearing mine pretty much-non-stop for the rest of the summer and as far beyond as the weather allows!
Amazing, so pleased to hear that Joe!
We’re actually just switching away from Royal Mail, because the service has been so patchy.
Jeans & T-Shirts done well Ft. Simon Crompton & Taka – https://youtu.be/30cWon-LjvA
Hi Simon,
I’m happy customer of the blue and white t-shirts. Good news about the grey, but is there any chance that you’ll do one in olive?
Thanks.
No current plans Michael, but vote registered!
One more vote for the olive (and the grey)
And another vote for the olive….And Simon, could a long sleeve polo work in this material as well?
I wouldn’t make one it probably, no. The collar could be a little shapeless.
Sorry to be that guy Simon… but one more vote for that olive to end all olive’s. Much love.
No worries, always good to have
Hi Simon. I’ve bought a few of these now, and although they’re very nice I did want to say I’m a bit disappointed with the colour fade. I bought a white one at the initial release and found that after a few washes it went from very soft and Ecru to just plain white and quite stiff. I followed the instructions to wash at 40.
I bought a new one with the recent release and seeing them side-by-side really emphasises the problem. I couldn’t help but notice that now there are no washing instructions on the new releases. I take it that’s because the problem was noticed. I now wash at 30 and I’m keeping the shirts.
Hi Matt,
I’m sorry to hear that. The lack of washing label isn’t anything to do with that, no. It was just left off a few of them.
The slight stiffness comes from the dense, slowly knitted cotton – referenced above when I talked about how they’re made and then about reshaping them after washing. The material comes together, and then stretches slightly again and softens again when it’s worn. It adapts to the body in that way, as denim does. You should find that this stiff feeling comes out as you wear it, but if you want ti remove it from the start, you can also do so with a light iron.
The colour fading is something that also comes from the material, and I actually quite like. I’m sorry if it means it’s not quite the same as the colour when you first bought it, but I like tees that fade a little with wear, so they look like old favourites – it’s particularly nice on the navy and black.
I hope that’s helpful
Cheers
Simon
Hello Simon. Thank you for your reply.
I’m really not used to this sort of “behavior” from a T-shirt. In particular the first-wash colour loss really just left the impression that the dye was cheap. I’ll keep giving it a try. Maybe I’ll warm more to them.
No worries. I don’t think many people are used to these kinds of tees, or indeed to many of the repro-type products Japanese makers often lead towards – because by definition they haven’t been common for a long time. They do need a bit more explanation.
Hello Simon. I spotted these at The Armoury’s https://thearmoury.com/collections/shirts/products/cotton-freedom-sleeve-tee?variant=30955936481351. I like them but they’re a raglan sleeves t-shirts as opposed to the regular t-shirts sleeves. I don’t like a raglan sleeves on my t-shirts and would prefer the regular t-shirt sleeves like the ones on PS Tapered t-shirts. I wanted to know your thoughts on a raglan sleeves on t-shirts?
I quite like them as an alternative, though I’d prefer a normal sleeve most of the time
I wore this for the first time today: the navy version, from the first run. I found the length to be perfect, and didn’t find it to be too short. I can appreciate though that the longer length of the second run is probably safer for the majority. Look forward to further colours, and a larger production run if possible!
Thanks John, good to know
Do you happen to have details on the difference in lengths between the first and subsequent runs? I purchased an XS and S in the first run and have been wearing and washing to see which fit I prefer. I cannot find the email stating what length was added. And I was not sure from the size table if it is the current or first-run sizes. I would measure my t-shirts but after washing I’m not sure what the original sizes were. Anyway, I am without my tape, as I’m traveling at the moment.
It was 2cm extra Ben
Hi Simon,
Being broad shouldered and slim waisted I often struggle to find (RTW) tops that fit me well overall. Either the shoulders are too slim and the waist fits, or the shoulders are right but the waist is a “tent”.
The taper you offer in this t-shirt could work well for me. Also, the dropped shoulder you mention should suit me as well.
However, I wonder if you could provide a shoulder-to-shoulder measurement in the size table more often for guys like me who struggle in this area?
Specifically I’m interested in the size S’ shoulder measurement if you could please provide it?
Best,
Sigurd
Hey Sigurd,
Sure, I’ll try and get a full set some time when I have the stock with me. In the meantime I’ve checked the small and the shoulder width is 42cm
Thanks Simon – appreciated. Unfortunately the shoulders will be too narrow for me I think
OK, no worries. If it’s marginal, I’d focus more on the chest measurement to be honest – shoulder seams can move a couple of cms and not affect the fit
Well, my best fitting t-shirts have 45/46 cm shoulders. I’ve worn smaller out of necessity but find that shoulder seams placed too high make my neck/head seem big. Shame since the other measurements are good and the product looks nice.
Ah well. I guess you could try sizing up, if that’s a look you like – certainly I do most of the time now, wearing the large. You get a bigger chest and shoulders
Inspired by the PS tee I ended up trying a different option: the Drake’s “hiking” t-shirt. Which I found to fit me really well, even though it does not taper as much.
It shares many characteristics with yours: sturdy cotton, high neckline, bigger chest and shoulders and shorter length.
Thanks Sigurd. Yes that is a nice T-shirt. Fairly straight in cut as you say, and not woven in the same way either – but I think you understand that.
Hey Simon, yesterday evening the dog and I took our weekly trip down to see my aunt who lives by the seaside. I was wearing – brown rough-out suede Alden boots, olive chinos, the PS tapered tee in white and a navy cotton Valstar. That’s a regular outfit in the arsenal, however this is the first time wearing it with the PS tee as opposed to one of my regular t-shirts.
I find it interesting that once you start wearing a t-shirt of this weight and substance, anything less starts to feel off. Regular tees are great, under knitwear and sweats etc. but if I’m wearing a tee on it’s own, this is what I’m wearing from now on. On that note, I need to stock up and fill the gaps, can’t wait for the restock so I can grab a black and other future colours.
Ps. At first, I treated them like denim and washed at 30, pretty much zero spin. I then took the plunge and started washing at 40 degrees with my regular washes/white washes (knowing it was a slight risk) and have done for most of the summer now. I give them a good shake post wash and hang dry. No shrinkage at all, still measure exactly the same at 66cm. The navy is already taking on some really nice character.
Nice, really good to hear CK and useful feedback too, thanks
Hi Simon,
https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clothing-jackets-coats-vests/torrence-suede-jacket/592899.html
I noticed this jacket was currently in stock at the moment at RL. I believe this is the one you are wearing in this article.
Do you remember if you took your regular M size?
Thinking of purchasing it but still not sure at the moment. How are you finding it?
I absolutely love it, and I took an M
Greetings Simon, was wondering if you have an estimate for when these will be re-stocked? I saw they were due in October.
Many thanks
Yes I’m afraid we don’t know Rob, they keep being delayed. It might be the New Year unfortunately
Hi Simon, just wondering if you think they will come this month? Many thanks, enjoy Pitti!
Yes, we’re hoping so!
What’s the weight of the T-shirt please? I’m looking for something similar while waiting for a restock.
We’ve been trying to get an exact number from the factory, but it’s very hard to get communication from them, sorry. It is 14-count yarn, in case that’s helpful
Thanks 👍