Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring.
But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to as double denim?
As with most topics we discuss, I think the first thing is to understand what effect you are trying to achieve or avoid.
So, with double denim the risk is that it can look too fashion-y, like trying too hard. Perhaps - worst of all - that you’re striving very publicly to look cool.
The biggest reason it can look like this is that the shirt and trousers are matching, and this is not normally how one dresses. You don’t wear a navy worsted shirt with navy worsted trousers, or a white T-shirt with trousers in the same material.
Even though railroad workers may have worn a denim shirt with denim overalls historically, no one is doing so today. Because it’s not normal, it stands out.
So the way to reduce that effect - if you want to - is to reduce the extent to which top and bottom match.
In the shots here - with a great new jacket from The Anthology - I am wearing a denim shirt with jeans. But the shirt is clearly a different shade from the trousers, and is lighter in weight, creating a different texture.
Had I worn something like my Niche western shirt there would have been less contrast. That shirt is closer in colour and weight to these jeans. The same would apply to combining my Bryceland’s Sawtooth with darker indigo jeans.
I like the fact that my combination is double denim, but subtly so. It’s a nice change from my default blue oxford, and a slightly more interesting choice.
Sometimes I do want more of a look, and then I wear that Niche shirt. But usually I don’t. The point is to be aware of the effect, understand how it is caused, and then choose your style.
Don't just say you simply do or don’t like something or - worse - that it is bad or wrong.
Aaron Levine - top image above - does a good line in double denim. In that example, it’s effective in making the waxed jacket look a little more playful, less rural.
Most of the time when Ralph Lauren does it - second image above - the look is over the top. Not just because of the belt and cowboy hat, but because the shirt is more similar in texture to the jeans as well. But then that's what he wants - he's Ralph Lauren.
Alessandro Squarzi, in the third image, would be fairly subtle in his combination were it not for the southwest belt buckle, and shirt collar over the lapel.
Of course, the effect of double denim is much greater when the jacket is taken off.
Actually this could deserve its own post: to what extent looks work in the configuration photographed, but not when layers are removed. As they inevitably are in real life. I find it particularly the case with roll necks, as we discussed here.
That’s probably not worth going into now, however, as I still want to talk about the jacket and jeans.
The jacket is my second from The Anthology, made in 17/18oz Fox Tweed (TD14).
It is a direct copy of my beloved grey herringbone from them, and in a material that is intended to make it a direct replacement for this green tweed.
I did make a green-cotton suit with The Anthology between these two which didn’t work out, but that was mostly my fault. I didn’t realise the cotton had stretch in it, and didn’t make it clear how much I disliked stretch in materials. Buzz (Tang, Anthology co-founder) and I have moved on.
In fact, I think the new jacket is a good example of how seriously Buzz takes the customer service side of his business.
He was reticent about making a new jacket for me without the cutter being able to travel to London, even though my pattern was so well established. And he was very keen to make sure every aspect of the new one was correct.
Of course, I only have my first-hand experience to go on, but I have also heard similar praise from PS readers who are customers.
Reflecting that level of service, the jacket was precisely the same style and fit as my previous one (only worth mentioning because so many tailors fail to do that) and it’s a style I’ve come to love.
The slightly dropped shoulder I find flattering, and it compliments the drape in the upper body. The fronts are rounded and open, which makes it more casual and easy to wear with jeans, as here.
And while the finishing might not be at the level of the most expensive tailors in the world, that’s something I find I care less about.
The tweed, meanwhile, is a beautiful colour - not as strong as it appears on the Fox website, and with all the wonderful flecks and variation I love in a tweed.
The jeans are the Dartford 0105 model from Full Count, bought from Clutch Cafe.
I had been researching light-washed quality jeans for a few months, looking for something that could be an alternative to my vintage Levi’s, given how often I wear those.
It was proving hard to find something in a good wash, medium rise, with a comfortable but slightly tapered leg. Not skinny and not big.
The fit, wash and quality on this Full Count style was perfect, but too wide. Then it occurred to me to have the leg tapered, and I did, with Soldier Blue. I narrowed the leg from the knee downwards, to mimic my vintage pair.
The result is nigh on perfect. Great fit through the top block, easy style, and with make that means they look much more like a pair worn from raw, rather than a more commercial wash.
That’s down to Full Count's hand washing and distressing, the quality of the cotton, and little things like cotton thread, which after a few years will also need its own repairs here and there.
The only thing I’d say about the Full Count is that they give quickly - I’d say mine have gained a half inch in the waist. So buy them tight. I bought a size 31 but should perhaps have gone for 30.
But then again, it’s much easier to take in denim than to take it out.
Looking at these pictures again, I'm not sure the vest under the shirt is a good idea.
I like the idea of it in theory, but in practice wearing a white T-shirt underneath (or nothing at all) feels more like me. You can see an example on this post.
The T-shirt perhaps risks looking boring or conventional, but I'd rather that than the opposite, too fashionable or trying too hard.
Which of course brings us full circle.
The Anthology plan to return to the UK as soon as they can once quarantine regulations are completely lifted. All existing customers should be in touch with the team already. For more information, contact the team at [email protected]
Pictured below is the Anthology herringbone coat, which I helped them design and they are selling RTW or MTO on their site here. It is exactly the same make and style as last year's polo coat, which you can read about here. The only difference is the lack of a flapped breast pocket.
The boots are Galways from Edward Green in mink suede.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
I think this is a great casual look. I see your point on the vest, perhaps it would look better if the cut of the shirt was a little more casual (eg western?). Also, were you wearing this jacket at the pop up? It seems to be quite a warm green, how does that fit in with the rest of your wardrobe?
I can see that logic Nick, yes, though I’m still not sure I like it then – I wore it with a western shirt here.
The jacket is quite a strong green, yes. It doesn’t fit that well with the cold-colour wardrobe pieces, but I have plenty of others it goes with well. My PS Harris Tweed is similar in terms of strength I think
As you say there is no right or wrong, in the platonic reality sense, in what one wears. The way we see something arises from all sorts of factors. Unfortunately for me, possibly due to my age, the double denim look even with a sports jacket, still shouts out 1970’s era Status Quo! Just don’t go the full flares look Simon! 🙂
Ah man, I was such a Status Quo fan when I was a kid. But no, not for the fashion…
I do think, as described, the look can be controlled a lot depending on how similar top and bottom. I doubt most people would even call this combination double denim, or perhaps even describe the shirt as denim until they saw it close
Simon, this is a lovely jacket, but a quick query: you mentioned in your post on the Massura jacket that you would follow up once alterations had been done. Does this replacement mean that project could not be salvaged? Thanks!
No, just that I’m not sure if it will work out, and if so when.
That’s a really beautiful tweed.
In regards to double denim, it definitely works better with a shirt – a denim trucker, even in a different shade, is significantly more of a look even with a very different colour.
I agree with you re the vest. Even unbuttoned that amount it feels more like exposed underwear rather than your directional look in your t-shirt under tailoring article.
Thanks Aaron, that’s what I was trying to say re the vest, nicely put
Lovely jacket ! I appreciate more and more a roomier cut with some drape, your best one for me being the brown tweed from WW Chan.
What is the denim shirt being worn here ? it looks like it is missing a button
It’s an old one from Al Bazar in Milan. And no, there is a button it’s just not done up for some reason! I hadn’t noticed that
Ah the eternal Al Bazar shirt… I had already asked you in another article discussion what denim shirt you were wearing, and it was this one, already falling apart as you said. It looks like you still haven’t found the replacement you were looking for
No, not yet. Still looking though!
As an alternative, I suggest you take a look at the Stòffa upcycled denim shirt. Beautiful material, with collar and styling details that work really well under a jacket.
“No, not yet. Still looking though!”
Sounds like potential opportunity for another PS product! 😊
Great insights Simon, I agree that the DD look is great w the jacket but does look a little rugged or fashion-y when just a shirt and jeans alone. The topic could not be complete however without featuring Jay Leno…he is a master of DD sans jacket, he definitely pullls it off as he has such a comfortable / confident air about him
Nice. If only I could get him in some good boots. That would really finish it off
That’s the kind of colour palette that looks good on every man and that everyone should learn to wear .
The green tweed is simply beautiful and green is definitely a colour that men should use more as everything else in their closet is blue / navy .
The T-shirt underneath demonstrates that’s you’ve finally listened and benefitted from your mums advice (something I learnt in middle life !). It makes a huge difference to warmth especially when wearing a jacket that exposes the chest to the cold .
I think PS readers need to see more colour combos like this .
It would be interesting to get the pit-to-pit and length measurements, so that it can be compared to your other jackets.
Yes, I guess it would be nice to do The Anthology in the Style Breakdown series at some point.
Beautiful cloth .
I note that it’s 18oz ….. is that considered a very ‘heavy’ cloth ?
(Considering 11/12oz is a 4 season cloth )
When is 18oz appropriate and what additional considerations are needed when buying such a weighty cloth ?
Also is the cloth like the PS tweed but in a green as opposed to a brown ?
Yes, it is considered a heavy cloth, and it is heavy. However, I wouldn’t say it feels particularly heavy on – it’s not bulky, as I think it’s quite densely woven. Other tweeds of that weight or below even have felt bulkier to me.
However, I think it will limit its usage into less warmer weather than something more around 13 or 14 ounces.
It’s similar in some ways to the PS Harris Tweed, in the number of colours woven into it for example. However, this is a herringbone and that is not.
Also, the PS is a Harris tweed, which means it’s woven on small looms on Harris, and it has the typically hairy and spongey handle of Harris. I don’t believe the Fox is Harris Tweed.
How do you think this tweed compares/contrasts with the Escorial Green Tweed from PS sometime back?
In any particular way Joe? It’s obviously different in a few ways, particularly the feel – one is soft like cashmere, the other is a tweedy wool
A great looking jacket; material, style and fit. Particularly on the latter I like the slightly looser look and feel.
I agree on the vest. Personally I don’t like them in any look. A crew neck makes the neckline look interesting and adds some warmth that may obviate the need for a coat or nothing under the shirt.
All the best and belated best wishes for the New Year.
Would you say that the Anthology-cut is similar to your Anglo-Italian-MTM?
In some ways. They’re both quite different to a typical English or Milanese square and structured cut for example.
But they are significantly different in others too. The Anthology is more curved in the opening of the quarters, not as big in the chest, higher in the buttoning point.
The best way to compare all the points is probably to read the reviews of the Anglo jacket and my first Anthology one, here.
Simon – great look! I also have the Fullcount Dartford wash jeans, but in the slightly trimmer cut 1110 and have tried, without as much success as this, to wear them with a sports coat. Love the jeans and they’re the first pair with an intentional heavily used wash that look natural and not mildly cheesy, but due to my lack of success in pairing with casual forms of tailoring, I’ve only worn them very casually. Your combination above nails it, with that great, heavy fabric and the color variances. Well done – I have some inspiration to try again.
Thanks, that’s interesting. I wonder whether that’s the cut or the wash/fade of the 1110.
And I like the way you describe the wash on this compared to other jeans – natural, not cheesy
Hi simon, i totally agree on the great service rendered by the anthology team. I find they are quick and detailed in response to queries. I recently bought a polo shirt from them and noticed a small stain on the collar. They immediately told me they would be sending a new piece over and told me to keep what I had while being apologetic about the incident. I am looking forward to purchase more items from them and to eventually be able to get something mtm or bespoke from them when I can travel.
Nice to hear Shem
I’ve seen you harp on stretch a couple times now. Could you maybe give more detail as to why you dislike it so much? (or is it just the fact that it inevitably stretches out maximally which makes it kinda pointless and takes away from quality material?). Cheers!
Maybe it needs a separate post, I seem to repeat this in comments quite a lot.
In brief, the issues are:
– The denim itself won’t age in the way good denim does. It’s not 100% cotton, and won’t fade in the same way.
– The fit often doesn’t look great, it clings and doesn’t wrinkle as normal jeans do.
– I personally dislike the feel. You can push against it, but you’re also being pulled against the whole time, as you do so.
– It’s often used as a short cut for people not buying a particularly good or flattering fit.
Is it best to say or rather would it be fitting to say stretch for women, and non-stretch for men? Or is that a little controversial?
By the way, I’m with you Simon, having had jeans from rivet and black horse, when before in my much younger years I used to buy diesel jeans thinking they were actually good. (I had a whole wardrobe full, complete waste of money). Still you live and you learn 😉
I’m not sure if it’s controversial, but while some women certainly have different priorities when it comes to denim, many I know have the same as we describe here. It might depend more on whether you really like denim as a material and appreciate the way it looks and ages or not
Slightly off topic but thanks for the response. I was thinking of commissioning a bespoke suit having had a lot of made to measures (in fact I only get mtm at the bare minimum). I have yet to have anything made for me or bespoken for as per say
I am a slim guy around 5 ft 9 and with small shoulders. Would a roped shoulder look good or better or at least some structure on the shoulder, as opposed to the Italians who opt out for having less support there.
Essentially, my basic point was should I refrain from having it cut so closely ala Cifonelli? I know I can speak to the tailors/ team who will have a vision but ultimately, it will be who has the final say.
I have the struggle with all clothing, in the sense I know too wide legs for example would look like it’s too boxy, and having it too skinny would only accentuate my slim/skinny frame. This is why I have problems buying chinos off the rack which, coincidentally I will be having a look at some today.
I think the answer is, it mostly depends on the style you like and what look you want to create, rather than your body shape. Your body is relevant, but the most important thing between a big roped shoulder and a natural Neapolitan one is looking more/less formal, more/less showy etc.
On the body point, it sounds like you should tend towards things that are not extreme, essentially, as you say on the trousers. But have a look at the article focusing on that here, and the comments from readers too.
Thanks again – interestingly, I was thinking of Cifonelli himself, you cannot exactly tell a man with his know how to dress. Yet he is a small man in stature, but still wears all his clothes in the way you mentioned above – which also alludes to the point about body shape.
Thanks Simon, nice work as always.
Fair do, thanks for the clarification!
These days, denim jeans paired with a denim shirt and a RL herringbone tweed jacket (I have three to choose from) is my go-to look. I also have a brown RRL corduroy jacket I pair with denim if I get tired of the herringbone. Such a simple thing, yet I look better than 99% of the men I see with this look. My days in an office are firmly behind me and this is the look I chose …
Hi Simon, A couple of quick questions.
Is there any particular reason the flap was not included on the breast pocket of the tweed version on the Anthology /PS Polo coat?
When Anthology next visit the UK would they be bringing camel Polo coats with them for purchase?
All the best.
The breast pocket flap was a reference to old polo coats, and the new coat isn’t really in that tradition, given the material. It’s borderline whether it’s really a polo coat at all.
On bringing them to the UK, I don’t know I’m afraid. I can see if Buzz can reply here maybe
Hi Stephen, thank you for showing interest in our collaboration Polo coats with Simon. If you are based in the UK (London specifically, or would travel to London), feel free to speak to us over [email protected]. Buzz, our cofounder is London-based and would be happy to schedule a meet-up with you if you desire to try on the coat before purchasing. Otherwise, they are currently available for purchase online directly.
Also, thank you Simon for the reply about the breast pocket design. On our socials today, we also briefly mentioned why the two were crafted with slight differences. The breast pocket was flapped on the Camelhair Polo Coat as we would like to pay homage to the traditional look, whereas the Herringbone piece is welted to give a more modern look. It is a decision based on complementing the cloth and our identity, where we constantly strive to combine tailoring with a hint of modernity and creative twist.
For more information, you may visit the following links or Simon’s previous blogpost about our collaboration piece:
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to speak with us.
Dear TA Team, thank you for your reply. I will contact you directly via the address you provided. I live I; London so hopefully can follow up as you suggest.
I like the jacket and boots Simon.My only caveat would be that I would usually wear just indigo jeans without much fading with a nice jacket.For me there is a little too much dissonance between a smart jacket and well worn jeans.Subjective view I realize since many of the comments are positive but what do you think?
I do know what you mean, yes. I don’t mind the colour of jeans like this, the light fade, but ideally you would have less distressing – the more there is, the more casual they look.
Hi Simon, I’m new around here but love the site! You mentioned in the article that you had the jeans narrowed from the knee down, and I’m wondering what size hem opening you went with. I love the tapered but not too skinny look you’ve achieved. Thanks!
Thanks. The hem is 20cm. Bear in mind that that opening should be relative to your stature and to the rest of the jeans though. With slimmer jeans I’d have a 19cm hem
By looking at the selvedge, the jeans were tapered at the inseam, correct? Never saw that before but that‘s fantastic. I actually tried the same jeans last time I visited Clutch Cafe (it was the „halfway there“ wash) and I liked them but them being a size 36, the leg opening was too huge for me. If only I had known that there‘s a place where they could‘ve been tapered properly 🙂
Yes Ingo, that’s correct, it’s generally done on the inseam so the selvedge stays intact.
Hello Simon. What denim shirt are you wearing? Is this the PS Light Everyday denim shirt?
See comments above on that – it’s an old one from Al Bazar
That means the PS Light Everyday denim shirt would be a little lighter and wouldn’t work here. I would like you to suggest a similar shirt or a maker that comes to your mind. Thanks Simon!
No, the Lighter Everyday Denim shirt would be about the same shade, and it would work here.
It’s just not a bleached-out denim shirt, as most are you find, and so didn’t demonstrate the double-denim look I wanted to discuss.
The fit of those jeans is indeed really good. In particular, I think it would be useful to have a separate article dedicated to washed denim, including also some brand recommendations.
Great post, Simon. Thank you! If you would not wear your Brycelands sawtooth with denim down below due to its thickness, what would you wear it with?
To be clear, I was saying that the Brycelands Sawtooth would create a stronger double-denim look if it were worn with dark indigo jeans, because the two would be similar in thickness and colour. It’s not wrong, just more of a look.
I wear the Sawtooth with chinos, with flannels, that kind of thing. Eg here and here
That’s looking a bit Jeremy Clarkson to me.
The solution for those who want to avoid double denim is to wear a chambray shirt.
its been great to see how Anthology has branched out into more RTW given travel restrictions/quarantine preventing trunk shows. It must be really tough on them and other HK based tailors with international clientele. It’s unlikely China/HK will start opening their borders until at least 2023, and I wouldn’t expect much to happen until mid 2023 at the earliest. It’s great to see you supporting them through articles like this, Simon.
I used to think denim with a jacket and shirt like this was the coolest look. Over the years however I have tried it with little success (in my own opinion of course). I struggle to find a use for this look in the way I live my life. At work its mostly suits or sportcoats with smart trousers. Jeans just does not cut it for me there, even though others wear it. As for the weekend I still find myself wearing a jacket with smarter trousers and jeans only with an overshirt or leather jacket.
What I love about denim is how well it pairs with these types of natural colours as well as with darker tones. It seems to go with everything, only never really makes the cut for specific settings.
Maybe its just me 🙂
Nope. Denim and Denim isn’t a good look. It’s just too Matchy-Matchy.
Come on, let’s try for something a little less simplistic?
Do you think it makes no difference having the shirt and jeans in such different materials as this?
Hmm not sure about the alteration you’ve made on your jeans here. You can see the break in flow from the lose thigh to the calf. It looks altered and (as a small guy who gets things altered) I hate it when you can tell.
In other news, bought some Lee selvage Rider 101. They are – by far – the best jeans I have ever had. Check them out.
Thanks Charles. To be honest I’m not sure you can tell, I certainly can’t
double denim is also called the Texas Tuxedo. Don’t worry, Texans aren’t offended.
Yeah, that’s more an actual tailored-style jacket and jeans though
Yes, when I hear “double denim” I tend to think of jeans with a trucker jacket in similar hue, which isn’t a great look. But blue oxford-chambray-denim shirts tend to exist on a continuum and I reckon all are compatible with denim jeans if, as you say, you pay attention to making a distinction in tone and texture. A camel or moss tweed jacket makes the combination flawless — even a grey herringbone tweed if you want the Robert Redford “Three Days of the Condor” vibe
Hi Simon, It’s good to have the PS affirmation of what I’ve felt comfortable in for a number of years. I’ve a number of tweed jackets & there’s invariably a touch of blue in the tweed somewhere. Ditto for indigo denim jeans & occasionally a lighter denim or chambray shirt, all very casual, comfortable & lived in look with a tailored tweed jacket.
It looks to me like what you call ‘lightweight denim’ is what we rebellious colonists call ‘chambray.’ It’s hard to make out the weave of the fabric from your pics. Living for thirty years in the American Southwest I never had any use for denim shirts. They’re not as breathable as chambray in warm weather and they don’t keep you warm in the cold. To double denim I say, “Bah Humbug!”
Thanks Jesse. Almost seasonably perfect.
Denim and chambray are really quite different, though both terms have expanded in use a lot over the years – see our post here on the difference, in the Shirt Fabric series
Isn’t that moss Fox Tweed herringbone fabric delightful? My Berlin tailor made me a three-piece suit in it last autumn. The russet tweed herringbone is even lovelier.
As somebody who rarely gets the opportunity to wear suits double denim is one of my favourite looks but as you have shown it doesn’t have to be scruffy or show lack of attention to what you are wearing.
I had Will at Will Adams Bespoke (who i believe you met while at Kilgour) make me (via a shirtmaker in Italy) a button down collar denim shirt that’s quite dark in tone but should go on a fade journey that will see it move through levels of formality as it does so.
Quite crisp at the moment but a few wash/wear cycles should see it loosen up.
Its a true denim but i’m not sure on maker of the fabric apart from it being Italian in origin.
The full count 0105 are quite a loose, wide-ish leg fit. Why not go for something else instead of altering the intended fit? I’m sure you can find similar washes in a more suitable fit and make. Personally if I’m spending £400 on jeans, I want them to fit well from the get go. You can easily buy another beaten up vintage 501 for less than that, no?
I did look at a lot of other pairs of quality washed denim Zo, as mentioned, and I couldn’t find any other that I liked. The top block on these was so much better than any other – the rise front and back, the fit through the hips and seat.
And to be honest, an alteration of the leg is a simple and easy thing to do – if you want a great pair of jeans, and you really don’t need many, then it’s not much to do. It’s as easy as hemming a pair of dress trousers. I would say the opposite – if you’re going to spend £400 on a pair of jeans, you really should be bothered to make a small adjustment if it’s needed and not hard to do.
On vintage 501s, no that’s even harder. I still look around for good pairs and I haven’t found one as good as the pair I got in Japan. And the fit on these Full Count is better than that vintage pair too. Vintage shopping is nearly always harder because there’s no size run in anything. Much more pot luck.
I think you should have a look at Tom Ford himself in double denim at his 2014 show. Just check it out.
A beautiful jacket. I am curious – you turn up the bottoms of the jeans, and I notice you often do the same with chinos. Is this to add a additional level of casual? (A literary conceit,”I grow old, I shall wear my trousers rolled.”) Or just a personal tweek. In the fifties, we worn jeans rolled double with a wide cuff and much higher above the boot or shoe.
No, not an Eliot reference I’m afraid, though I appreciate the tone of PS comments being raised a notch.
The turn-up on the bottom of jeans has a history going back quite a few years in the UK, back I think to the arrival of Japanese selvedge here and its popularity. After a while it also became a sign of quality – you turned them up to show that the selvedge was there. Today, however, it’s just looks unusual, almost odd, if you don’t I think. It’s so universal. Not folding up the bottom is more of a style statement.
Of course, the other thing is that it allows you to easily get them the precise length you want, which isn’t always easy if you don’t have access to a proper chain-stitch machine for hemming.
Thank you for this useful article.
Please, could you propose some brands for jeans? If possible they should be available on line and better if it’s for EU (without extra charges)
Finally, can you briefly mention the advantages of selvedge denim?
Thank you for your help,
I haven’t tried that many, but my basic recommendations would be Blackhorse Lane in London, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, and then above those, various Japanese makes that are all great quality but usually expensive – Full Count, Real McCoys, Iron Heart and so on.
By the way, if you’re buying things from the UK into the EU, you shouldn’t have any extra charges – as in, you will have to pay local VAT, but you’d have to pay that in the UK anyway at UK rate. And as long as the customs forms are filled out correctly by the sender, you shouldn’t have to pay any additional customs (if the origin is the UK). The only small charge might be a courier one for handling the VAT charges.
Selvedge denim isn’t much of a guide to quality any more unfortunately. I’d find it strange if good jeans weren’t selvedge, but too many cheap jeans do it as well, sometimes even faking the selvedge in order to make them look higher quality. Better to learn more about the brand and the material.
Ironheart make great jeans and have a European store. I’ve bought high quality jeans off them. https://www.ironhearteu.com/ Ironheart have a free hemming service.
Statement https://statement-store.com/collections/jeans are a German based retailer and have a very good,high quality, selection. I’ve only bought chinos from them(I’m Netherlands based) and the service great and delivery free.
Any plans to bring back the darker denim shirt Simon ?
No, sorry Ian, it’s been discontinued
I think this is a very divisive look. It clearly appeals to some – and perhaps it might be more natural in an American context. But to me, in a British context, it looks “dad” or “public school goes casual” or, indeed, “Jeremy Clarkson”. The next question is why. Individually, each element is lovely. The jeans really are a great cut, fade and fit (now tapered); appealingly worn shirt; nice boots; and I really like the jacket, too. Different. Striking. The whole would look great with flannel trousers – just not jeans. It’s the wrong mix of formalish and casual. Very subjective, of course, but to me jeans and smart tailored jacket just don’t work whatever the fabric. Too jarringly redolent, somehow, of weekending corporate finance. I can see the knowing mix of messages going on here. In this instance it just comes out wrong. Obviously, a minority view….
I’ve worn outfits similar to this, tweed & jeans, since the early 80’s when Jeremy Clarkson was working his way up to appear with Ester Rantzen’s That’s Life, his I’ll fitting jeans & jackets are the weakness here. But I’m not too keen on the washed out stonewashed denim, it reminds me of the 70’s when almost every young person wore them not just Status Quo. I prefer a darker indigo denim, minimal wash but clean, earned wear & fade marks which works well with a light chambray as a contrast. I‘m a dad, not public school or a follower of preppy styles, but it works for me in a casual or smarter casual look but find good jeans that fit.
I could not find this tweed jacket on the Anthology website. Can anyone help me?
It’s bespoke Mark, so it wouldn’t be on their website for sale.
Ok. Thanks for letting me know.
$500 jeans strike me as obscene. I’ll stick with my $50 Levis 501’s/
There’s obviously a huge amount that differentiates those two Bob. It would be a more interesting comparison between these and a $200 pair of decent denim. At that price you’re wearing something in the cheapest materials made with the cheapest mass labour.
Hello Simon. Does the western shirt https://www.ralphlauren.com/brands-double-rl-men-shop-all-cg/slim-fit-chambray-western-shirt/538600.html?dwvar538600_colorname=Davey%20Wash&cgid=brands-double-rl-men-shop-all-cg&webcat=search#ns=shirts&prefn1=CategoryCode&prefv1=Casual%2520Shirts&ab=en_US_MLP_RRL_Slot_1_S1_L2_SHOP&start=1&cgid=brands-double-rl-men-shop-all-cg or say the PS selvedge chambray – shirt would have the same functionality and work as double denim and vice versa. It seems to me from your article that it’s not necessarily important to wear a denim shirt or a contrasting denim shirt on top to do a double denim, it’s do-able and will work with two options I mentioned above.
That RRL shirt will basically look like a denim shirt, because of the styling. But I don’t think it’s as versatile because of the styling – it will be rather more unusual.
The PS chambray isn’t a denim colour, unlike that one, and so no I wouldn’t describe that as a double denim either. I would wear that shade of chambray with darker colours – indigo or navy.
Beautiful jacket – interesting to see as the shoulder seems to me a bit more structured/roped than I think you’ve suggested you’d look for to wear with jeans. It certainly works and reassures me a bit as Neapolitan tailoring is outside my budget!
I know what you mean about the roping. I think the fact it’s softly made and extended helps – it drops a bit low
The Anthology herringbone coat looks nice. I much prefer it without the flapped breast pocket.
I’ve always thought that Valentino Ricci pulls off double denim rather well…
Lol, I do this frequently, but does different shades help?
Well to me, yes
The photos in this post have suggested to me a telling depiction of how I have distanced from the PS editorial line since I started following around 2019. It is the distance that goes from wearing this same outfit with a well chosen pocket square to wearing it with a vest showing underneath instead.
Thanks Nico, good to have the view. I hope we continue to have things that will interest you, even if I’d never wear a pocket square with this
Certainly you do have them, Simon. Besides, that doesn’t mean I am skipping content. I always welcome challenging views even if I don’t end up buying them in the end. Also the great writing is always there irrespective of the topic.
And since I have equally strong views on the visible vest, I can only respect yours on the square.
Thanks Nico, and any contrary opinions always welcomed on future pieces as well
Hello Simon and fellow PS Readers,
I really like this outfit and especially the Full Count jeans. I have been looking for similar jeans for some time, however, all the quality (Japanese) brands (including Full Count and all the others sold at Clutch, Rivet & Hide and Son of a Stag) I was looking into only seem to come in quite short inseam lengths. Does anyone know of quality denim brands which manufacture light-washed (selvedge) jeans with a longer inseam length?
Many thanks in advance.
Iron Heart go to 37” Antoine.
Many thanks for your kind reply Peter. Would you happen to know if they also produce light-washed jeans? Those I found on their website and at other online stores only come in raw denim.
I had a long chat about this whilst in a Nijmegen retailer. Evidently, their lightest denim( 7oz) can fade significantly.
However, that seems a little random to me. I have a pair of 21 oz (and Daniel was wearing a pair in yesterday’s reader profile) and the colour is still very deep(they are indigo).
Having searched for a similar effect with jeans for a while I had given up and was discouraged by the thought of having to slim the jeans down. However I just tried the vintage blue collaboration jeans between Private White and Tenue and these work really well for me – great colour, fairly high rise, ‘relaxed fit’ but with a tapered leg and no stretch in the fabric. I tried the ecru coloured ones as well as I thought these would be versatile but these were far too tight.
Hey Simon, have you tried other anthology RTW, especially civilman trousers? Was curious about your opinion on those…
I have tried the Civilman, the T-shirts and the Lazyman jacket. Have a quick search for those and you’ll find the places I’ve mentioned them. Happy to answer any more detailed questions then
I like this jacket with the two shades of blue and wanted to ask it there are there any tailors other than those in Florence that use side darts, although I’m not sure how it would look on a more casual jacket vs a suit.
I haven’t had just those darts from other tailors, Dennis, but I also think it’s a small detail that won’t affect the look or formality of a jacket, so I wouldn’t worry about it.
Hello Simon. I’m looking at these https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed?variant=37645704954017 as my second pair of jeans. I’ve sent an email to The Real McCoy’s to inquire about the weight of this denim as it’s not mentioned on their website. Is this is mid-blue colour jeans you talk about? Let me know your thoughts as I wait to hear from The Real McCoy’s service team.
Yes it is, and those look great Amit
With what leg opening did you go for with this pair? I recently also like this kind of fit with more room in the top-block but also with a clear taper. My latest Edwin pair is very similar to the fullcount-cut but with a strong taper to 18,5 cm at the hem. For me probably the best fit of a jean I have tried so far.
This is a 20cm bottom. But it does depend on your body shape a lot too
The bottom opening is such a topic, even though I am always convinced 1-2cm in diameter shouldn’t change that much. I believe that the right opening depends also on the feel, thickness, softness of the denim, yet I tend to go for 19 a 19.5cm. The bottom of your jeans here, which looks fantastic and well proportionend looks less than a pair I have with a 20cm bottom I have to admit (as far as I can tell from this picture).
Simon, Is there a difference you use in bottom/leg opening for jeans you tend to wear in summer vs winter?
Also, can you share the bottom measurement of your Vintage Levi’s?
Yes I think it’s hard, because of course it also depends on your body shape – it should be seen as a relative measure really – and the rest of the leg line matters too. I think it’s a little bit of personal consideration to find what’s right for you.
I don’t change in those seasons, no. My vintage Levi’s are 20cm.
Thank you for the quick reply Simon
Hi, SImon, wonder whats your view on the ideal cuff length on jeans, I am looking to purchase a pair of light washed jeans but with my shorter stature i found that I need to double cuff which in my opinion may look too bulky especially when paired with tailoring.
On a related note do you have any expeience with heming a pair of jeans while reattaching the original hem to retain the roping of the hem?
I like something around 2-3cm, but yes if you really dislike double cuffing then you can cut the hem off and reattach – I’ve done that once and it’s fine unless you’re a denim purist who can’t stop thinking about that cut hidden away!
Hi Simon what’s your take on the anthology’s taskmaster overshirts,
I haven’t tried them I’m afraid, but the patterns don’t appeal to me particularly
Hi Simon, I bought the Full count’s unsanforised jeans from the Clutch Cafe a couple of weeks ago, and I sized up one size as I was told it would shrink to my actual size after the first wash.
After the first wash, they obviously shrunk but stretched back fairly quickly, especially on the waist (1-2cm big).
Also, I usually wear leg opening 18.5-19.5cm for most of my trousers, but these are 20cm after shrinkage. Although there is a tiny difference, I find them a little awkward.
Therefore, I was considering whether I should taper the leg opening and waist like yours. Would you say it would be worth trying, or should these just be ignored?
I think it’s very much up to you Jack. It sounds like the leg line is a slightly different style to what you’re used to, but that isn’t good or bad, just different. Give it a few weeks and see what you think
Thanks. Did you find the tapering alteration left any marks from the original state and dropped well? As I try to avoid doing any alteration other than waist or hem lengths for the RTW dress trousers if I could, I was just concerned if the jeans could be the similar
Why did you try to do alterations like that on dress trousers? If you’re taking them in, there will never be any marks. And if you’re letting them out, there will only be on materials like cottons and linens usually.
With jeans, if you’re taking in then yes there will be a slight difference, because the fading on the edges will go, and be hidden inside. But as the alteration is only done on the inseam normally, you would barely see that.
More on altering jeans here
I see. As you said, after having little marks after altering my cotton dress trousers, I tried to avoid the alteration as much as possible.
If the fading could be the issue for tapering the jeans, then I assume it could be better for me to proceed with the alteration before they start to fade after wearing them much.
That is true Jack, yes
I hope you have been faring well. Maybe you know but The Anthology will have their trunk shows this week in London so
1) will you be there? If so, would you mind sharing what would you be thinking in ordering?
2) have you considered having a coat made bespoke for you by them? What are your thoughts?
Thank you for the time
Thank you. Yes I will be seeing them, looking forward to seeing Andy again after so long.
1) I have no particular plans to order something, but I know Andy wants to see this tweed jacket, as he hasn’t seen it on me before. I’m also interested in seeing their new DB styles – indeed trying on any tailoring of theirs, as that’s one thing I rarely get a chance to do.
2) I haven’t to be honest, because I haven’t had the polo coat we made together for that long. I’m sure they’d do a good job though.
The gorge on this seems the lowest of all your jackets, with a pronounced downward angle too, and it seems to make the breast pocket seem lower. I can’t quite see the attraction in this style but appreciate that the Anthology has a following amongst knowledgeable folks with great taste. Can you explain more about why this lapel is a good look? It seems less sweeping and stylish to me than most Neapolitan.
It is lower, you’r right, though not that low really (look at any 80s suit or jacket!).
The sartorial principle with a gorge at this height is that it points to the shoulders, rather than up and above – suggesting greater width rather than height. But while this has some truth in it, really with the lapels and gorge it’s about moderation and personal style, and I rather dislike the opposite, wearing the gorge is almost off the top of the shoulder. That looks like exaggeration
I see! I think the aspect I’m finding tricky is that the line of the lapel on this points downward, not horizontally as with your Ciardi. Coupled with the low gorge, and nice width it makes the whole lapel seem less “tall” proportionately – somehow this makes me think it reduces the wearer’s height. Not sure how else to explain this – have I got this very wrong? Ciardi seems to be more “horizontal” at the gorge- pointing out to the shoulders and drawing the eye from the breadth there to the narrowing at the button more elegantly?
I don’t think there’s much of a difference to the angle of the gorge – certainly not enough of a one to make any substantial difference to the impression it gives of the wearer. The lower gorge may have a small effect on the impression of height, but then as I said it substitutes breadth instead
As an alternative to the Dartford 0105 (with slightly tapered leg), what are thoughts on the Levi’s 1947 501 Fine Struttin’ Blue Worn In?
I haven’t tried them I’m afraid and tricky to see online
I keep returning to this, I think it might be the quintessential PS look in many respects, for me. The tweed is a riot of colour up close, but is otherwise fairly muted; likewise in the texture. The jacket cut works nicely with denim, and the combination of the shirt and jeans is unusual and yet harmonious – many an onlooker probably isn’t going to notice. I’ve yet to really perfect “jacket and jeans” myself, but it would probably look something like this.
Nicely put Jim
i really like your outfit here actually. it’s the type of thing i find myself drawn to given it feels ‘comfortable’ to me. i’m very fond of my jeans and in spite of concerted efforts to wear them less, i actually suspect i’m wearing them more.
my question is whether you think this outfit would work equally well with a corduroy jacket? i’m well aware of the subsequent post on corduroy, but thought i’d ask anyway.
Yes I think it could work well as well, perhaps in a more casual cord colour like that tan
Hi Simon, would you wear those Galway boots in suede with flannel or corduroy trousers and a tweed jacket? Also, around when in the year do you usually think it becomes too warm to wear these boots?
Yes, though usually I’d be more likely to wear a loafer.
That depends a lot on where you live and on how hot your feet get. Why though? They’re not going to be wearable all of the year, so why does it matter which month would be too hot for you?
I see. So would you wear them unless you feel too hot, regardless of the season? As you are aware, London’s weather suddenly becomes pretty chilly some days in April or May, but just because the temperature is similar to autumn or early winter, wearing an overcoat during those months would look quite odd to me. So, I wondered if I should consider those boots as being similar to wearing an overcoat during chilly days in Spring.
That might be a small factor sometimes, yes, though if it’s a cold and overcast day the season doesn’t matter too much. When people talk about being appropriate to the season, it’s largely the weather they’re talking about
Okay, thank you, Simon.
Can you tell me if there is anywhere in London I can buy a very basic double denim? Many thanks, Paul.
You mean a denim shirt and jeans, as here? I’d suggest Anglo-Italian for a more Italian soft look, or either Bryceland’s or Clutch Cafe for something more workwear and higher end
Hi simon i just went for an appointment with the anthology to do my very first custom order for a jacket – a mtm db jacket in alpaca. Im impressed with the hr price of anthology which i think is very fair. Being used to buying rtw i must say there is a high degree of anxiety though about how my piece will turn out! Alao i notice with the trial garment that it seems the anthology isnt the softest in make. It seems more stiff/rigid in the shoulders aa compared to my armoury model 3 jackets. Do you find that the case?
I don’t have a model 3 I’m afraid Shem, so hard to say.
Yes, that anxiety happens to us all! It’s the reason I’m always banging on about reducing any risk – getting something you’ve already seen in person, in a cloth you’ve seen in person, and so on
Hi Simon, I have my eyes on those Galways but wanted to check what last is yours? The only last EG have at the moment in the mink suede is the 202 last- is this yours too?
No mine’s the 82 I’m afraid
Ah I see.
Is your Cranleighs on the 202 last then?