I’ve never worn denim jackets much. They’ve usually been an occasional item, an experimental alternative to the suede blousons or chore jackets I wear more.
I think partly it’s about the styles I associate them with, which is chiefly denim-obsessive workwear or more fashion-led womenswear. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if men’s impressions generally have been rather affected by how popular they are with women.
The other, equally important reason is that I’ve found them hard to combine into outfits. The look of a denim jacket, white T-shirt and beige chinos is classic, but it also felt a little too ‘straight’. Not wrong, but not me.
At the other extreme, a denim jacket with tailoring often felt too unusual - not classic enough. Some of the Bryceland’s guys wear them with flannels and a shirt regularly, but it never felt quite right to me. This is, I guess, the process of finding your style.
There have been images of me wearing denim jackets in both these styles on PS in the past, as well as some slightly more unusual ones like under the Bridge Coat. I’ve included some of them above.
In some ways the fact these outfits have cropped up, but only once, illustrates the process of trying something, it not quite clicking, and as a result narrowing down your style.
More recently, I’ve been wearing denim jackets again - particularly as it’s a nice spring/summer jacket alternative - and pairing them with blue jeans. I’d always assumed this would be too fashion, too unusual. But as long as the blues aren’t that similar to each other, I like it.
So I find the mid-blue of my vintage Type III jacket above (bought at Union Fade in Milan) nice with a dark-indigo jean. They might be the same material, but there’s nothing matchy about it.
The shots above and below are from a shoot we tried in the PS showroom. I think we can improve how we do these shoots, but the images serve to show the basic combination: the two blue denims with a T-shirt, grey sweatshirt and snuff-suede Alden chukka boots. With a vintage tan belt to match.
Jason Jules does it better in the lead image to this piece, but then he would. I guess he had the advantage of a proper studio too.
Another way I like wearing the jacket is with a big down-gilet over the top. That’s a deerskin one from The Real McCoy’s above.
People often layer denim jackets under coats, and I can see the appeal of this - both the practical one in that it can be worn in colder months, and the stylistic one in that it’s an unexpected bit of texture under a smooth overcoat.
It’s a look I associate with Bruce Pask, and Regis Guyot seems to do it well (that's them below, in order). But I usually find this look impractical (perhaps the bigger sleeves of vintage ones are too large for some coats) and a little contrived on me. I haven’t repeated that look with the denim jacket under the Bridge Coat since the shoot.
A gilet is much easier over the top - there are no sleeves that have to work together, yet it adds a lot of warmth. In colder months I’ve found I effectively wear the two together as a coat, taking them both off as one when I arrive somewhere.
When I want a slightly stronger look (and of course the sun’s out) I like the denim jacket with white jeans. Either a grey or blue tee on top, perhaps a white one with a belt in between. That’s @kenichi_0215 below on Instagram in something similar. No idea what he does, but I like the way he wears grungey looks and ripped jeans yet avoids looking like he’s trying too hard to look young.
The next image is Shuhei Nishiguchi, as an illustration of the classic chinos look that I never seem to like. Maybe I need to play around with the proportions more.
The final images are there to illustrate the same thing: the look with tailoring that is a bit too unusual for me (on Willy at The Anthology and from Boogie Holiday), and the matchy-matchy double denim which I find a lot easier to pull off with a shirt than a jacket, for some reason.
Perhaps it’s those associations mentioned at the beginning - a denim shirt feels like one of the most universal things a guy can wear, while a denim jacket has shades of both workwear and womenswear. Indeed, now I think about it, in the latest shoot for the Bridge Coat I wore a denim shirt instead of a jacket. The combination of materials still clearly appeals, just in a different garment.
So then the obvious question - do you wear a denim jacket, and if so with what?
For a shopping guide to the best denim jackets out there, see this follow-up article by contributor Ben Chamberlain.
The other clothes shown on me are: a Real McCoy's 'Ball Park' sweatshirt, a Permanent Style tapered T-shirt, Rubato jeans, a Real McCoy's suede/reindeer gilet, a vintage belt and Alden chukka boots.
A very interesting article for me.
I have had the same stop start experience with denim jackets, try one or two then think would I wear it, then wish I had one. I like a lot of the styling in the article. (And it is the one jacket you can add a pin badge too without making a serious hole in the fabric).
I have had one along the way, and years ago I had a Paul Smith wool pinstripe jacket cut like a denim jacket style (which I found very useful). I also had a white denim one from a shop in Carnaby Street in my full on Mod days, a long while ao(!).
But I haven’t found ‘the’ perfect proper denim jacket one in recent searches.
Maybe I am trying too hard, as I have with the search for the perfect Harrington. I think I need another trip to Rivet and Hide…
Yes, same for me. I bought an 20oz ONI denim jacket, beautiful quality, a few years back and I seldom wear it more or less for the same reasons. I also found out that I do no like the style of very short jackets, which my denim jacket is.
On the upside, I started wearing it in the stables (we have horses), because it is more or less indestructible and does not show small stains. I would not do that with most of my other “nice” (i.e. non sport specific functional) clothing.
Sounds like it’s found it’s place Markus
I think they work really well with a casual shirt or white tee and five pocket cords in greys or browns as well – better than chinos imo because there’s not as much mismatch between the textures
Simon, any guidelines or opinions on how long the sleeves should be on these blouson-proportioned casual jackets?
I’d say similar to a shirt, a touch longer than a tailored jacket, given it’s meant to be practical and not about showing shirt cuffs
I do wear a denim jacket, and I like the look with tailored trousers. Currently I can’t pull it off because I have the Iron Heart modified type III jacket that’s just tough as nails and requires a lot of breaking in before it will be soft enough to wear with such an outfit. It actually got tougher after washing! (Still love it though.)
The double denim look is also something I’ve started doing recently, both with a jacket and a shirt (sometimes chambray instead of denim). I like it.
Sorry for a slightly off-topic question, but since some of these outfits show trainers, I thought I’d ask: do you know of any brand that makes “proper” canvas trainers or deck shoes in larger sizes? Like 46 EU? All the Japanese brands are way too small for me, and I’m never again trying Converse after the soles started to unglue after three wears.
Have you looked at the Goral MTO ones?
I wasn’t aware of this company, thank you! Looks interesting.
The Converse CT70 are in my experience way better made than the regular Chuck Taylors, that might be worth looking into! I have a pair that’s lasted many summers.
Thanks!
Interesting re. your experience w/ Converse.
I’ve long worn both classic Chuck Taylors and Jack Purcells (though I don’t know who currently owns Purcells) and haven’t run into this quick-falling-apart issue… and I do do lots of long distance walking.
Interesting question… How sure you are you got original converse? I got one pair couple years ago in canvas from amazon and another in leather from converse webstore. Amazon pair didn’t last half year before getting holes in canvas and sole ungluing. Leather pair still going strong (very little wear). Inspired by leather pair I got another pair for gym in canvas, this time from online store, and a bit more than a year later no issues with it…
At a price point closer to Converse, I’ve had good luck with Sperry CVOs. I am a US 14 on the Brannock and take a Sperry size 13. The Goral deck shoe is resolable, which really puts it in a different category.
Not sure if they are available where you are, but New Republic makes nice classic white leather sneakers up to a US 15.
I quite like my canvas deck shoes from Morjas, well made and good looking imo. I also still have a weak spot for Vans. Really good value!
Interesting. I have also been wearing more denim jackets this year, and particularly love the cut of the Iron Heart Type III. They offer a variety of weights, with 14oz being great for this transition period, and 21oz serving well for moderate winters. I find the Indigo Overdyed Black to provide enough contrast with indigo denim to avoid the Canadian tuxedo look. And as both the jacket and jeans fade in their own unique way, they really start to distinguish themself from each other.
I only wear them in the summer. Mostly when I want something less smart than the PS Linen Overshirt and a bit rougher than my Private White Harrington. Nearly always with jeans that aren’t too matchy. Usually with a tee (grey or white).
I think I know what you mean when you say men have been influenced by it being adopted by womenswear. Men seem scared to wear denim jackets now that women like them! It’s a disappointingly childish attitude – “Eurgh! Those are for girls!”. Come on lads, we’ve all got to grow-up sometime!
Indeed!
I’d say the same for so many men dressing sloppily.
I think at some point in recent decades, dressing up was looked upon as effete, so to prove ones masculinity (so the thinking went) one had to run in the opposite direction, sartorially speaking, and wear little else than sweatpants, T shirts, dirty old sneakers and the like.
I have two issues with denim jackets. The first is that they are too strongly associated with people who actually do physical work. I don’t really do that, so it feels somewhat fraudulent and incongruous to wear a denim jacket. I am also terrified that someone at the local DIY will ask me the difference between mortar and concrete.
I do go the stable like Markus S so maybe that would be the one place it would work!
The second is simply that the fit doesn’t work as I am tall and slim. If I wear trousers that fit, then I have what Derek Guy calls the “lollipop” look. It also tends to make me look somewhat vulturine. If I wore trousers wide enough to be proportionate (like Rubato) then I swim in the clothing. So, denim jackets don’t really work for me, but I salute those who manage to pull it off.
I’m tall and very slim myself and, yes, wearing a jean jacket that is naturally cropped and falls just a smidgen above the waist — there’s a risk that it accentuates ones slim build from the waist on down. Thus, one looks overly gangly, lumbering, etc.
I do wear the Type 3/t-shirt/beige chinos/chukkas look and like it well enough. The first experiment I tried spoiled me though. I swapped in a white henley and slightly browner carpenter trousers, and that’s become my new default for a denim jacket. Lately I’ve pondered swapping in a chunky off-white knit and some moderately worn-in white Chucks, or a very muted red butcher stripe shirt and off-white jeans.
Nice, thanks Joseph
As always interesting.
That said Simon for me you miss the key point on this one – it’s all about physical build.
Anybody can dress a denim jacket well but they only ever look good on men with waif like physiques.
They make muscular men and the overweight look like truck drivers and the tall (because of their short cut) like giraffes.
A very long time ago I realised not everything is for me. No flaneur suits everything
Thanks David. I actually think the jacket flatters me physically, though I am fairly slim and not super tall. The back of jackets like this in particular look really great – those long seams coming down into the waist are heroic
I’m 194 cm and never felt like a giraffe in a denim jacket. But I also wear a slightly longer version (Iron Heart modified type III) because that’s the only one I’ve ever found with sleeves long enough for me. So maybe if I tried a classic type II, I’d understand what you mean.
In any case, I don’t think it’s a rule that a tall person can’t look good in a denim jacket.
Nothings a rule but for me, physical shape comes first with every choice.
I long ago accepted that not everything is for me and I think that train of thought is an essential prerequisite to avoiding styling faux pas.
30 years ago when I was in my 20s, I saw a bloke in the pub about my age wearing full cut pin stripe trousers, Converse low top trainers, white vest, and denim trucker jacket over the top. It looked so good I tried to replicate it with disastrous results. Haven’t been brave enough to try a denim jacket since, but this article has given me new inspiration (especially Jason’s shots).
Thanks Nick. If my experience is anything to go by, it can take a while to find a look you like, but that’s half the fun!
The denim jacket with full cut pin stripe trousers is a great look — I imagine these were wool, somewhat dressy.
The white vest seems strange though — can’t picture it.
By the way, I too was in my 20s thirty years ago, and that sort of look would have had a bit of edge back then, the formal pants with a casual denim jacket. Now, here we are discussing its sartorial merit or whatnot. Ha!
I never thought I was a denim jacket guy but I actually bought one this year and have been wearing it – mostly with tees and ecru denim or other 5 pocket pants. It feels like a very classic All-American look
I agree that the denim jacket isn’t the easiest piece to wear. The main issue lies in its proportions, which often don’t flatter most body types. The Japanese tend to wear denim jackets particularly well, largely due to their height and build. Takuya Kimura, for instance, seems to wear a Type I denim jacket almost daily, and I think denim jackets have become something of a ‘suit’ for Japanese men.
Yeah, I noticed for stockier and/or shorter men who dress casually, they seem to work really well. It’s also the reason why I don’t like them. I own a really nice, classic A.P.C. mid-blue denim jacket, but haven’t worn it after the first year of purchasing. For one, it’s just too short. As a tall Asian man, I don’t care for its proportions. Maybe I need a really high waisted khaki chino. Second, it’s rather stiff and uncomfortable (even with slight stretch). People who layer this under other items like a coat–I’d feel like I’m suffocating.
It’s a nice jacket, but I’d happily exchange it for a denim chore coat (think Drake’s)–that would be so much more useful and versatile. I’d wear that all the time.
Personally, nothing wrong with experimenting, but I don’t find the looks work all that well with Simon, above.
I have an early 1970s vintage Levi’s Type III. So it’s shorter in the body with fuller sleeves. I usually wear it mid/late fall and early spring over a mid-gray merino wool hoodie and either some medium wale corduroy casual trousers in shades of brown or a great pair of heavy twill black chinos from Freeman Sporting Club. Footwear depends on what I’m doing, but it’s normally a pair of suede chukkas. Throw on a ball cap and I’m ready for a relaxed day out. I’ve always liked the look of a hoodie with a trucker, but going with wool adds a bit of maturity to the outfit and there’s less bulk under the jacket and around my neck. Cheers!
Didn’t you say in a previous post that you used to have heavy metal in terms of musical tastes. I would have thought a denim jacket would feel right at home Simon. Another surprising yet informative article!
Ha, yes true. Much as I love the music though, most of the clothing hasn’t carried through.
I do have an Iron Maiden waistcoat in a box somewhere, but that’s strictly for sentimental reasons…
Photoshoot badly needed!
Haha! I wouldn’t hold your breath
Well, not to drag this into a music conversation, but myself, as a teen in the US, in the ’80s I reached over to the UK for much of my musical interests: Depeche Mode, Yaz (or Yazoo), New Order, The Clash.
Marty McFly would approve of the denim jacket under a life preserver.
A denim jacket is just a classic, and personally I wear mine with everything. I own 3, from 100% raw to heavy washed (Blackhorse Lane, Iron Heart and RL). I would never wear double denim except with a raw jacket, and most of the time with raw jeans too. Never wear with tailored trousers, but most of the time from April to October with chinos (all colours) and white jeans. And then any kind of shoes from sneakers to loafers and boots, and any kind of shirts, knitwear, sweat-shirts (a favourite with white jeans) or T-shirts. Much easier to wear on my side than many other kind of jackets!
I love them, but then I am into denim. Full Count, Iron Heart, etc.
The key is authenticity – I see menswear influencer types wearing pristine tailored denim, which tends to look gentrified, appropriated, trying to get the look using wealth. Denim looks great when it looks like you wear it like denim and terrible when you treat it like formalwear. What you pair with it, is secondary.
As a working class kid growing up in Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the Levi’s denim jacket was de rigueur, along with the military green snorkel hooded down jacket in winter. While I remember them fondly, neither of these fit well into my current dressing style. I think the main driver is that the short format is simply not flattering on males over about 20, and actually looks pretty good on women. It also works better with woman’s pairing options from jeans and sweaters to over a summer dress. Sexy. As a man of similar age, body type and, sadly, hairline as you, I feel that it really doesn’t work for us. The pairing with tailoring seems contrived. The only look that I think works for you and could potentially for me is the sweatshirt, denim jacket, and down gilet. Mostly because it masks the short length of the denim jacket. Although, especially with chinos, it’s a bit too Banana Republic.
As a working class kid from South Jersey/ Philadelphia , although 30+ years older than you, I recall that there were two possible reasons for wearing a denim jacket: either you actually drove a Big Rig, or you had a Wyoming driver’s license. I cannot overcome the cultural associations of my youth. I actually like them in some circumstances, but just can’t do it. Entertaining comments as always. I love the exchange of points of view.
You said it far better than I did, above.
I think for me the biggest challenge with most denim jackets is the combination of their boxy proportions and cropped length, which can feel retro to the point of being costume-y. Like other commenters, I just tend not to like blouson-length jackets in general. However, a few seasons ago, I picked up a chore coat from Drake’s in a heavy, 14.2 oz bleach wash selvedge denim, and this has proved to be much more versatile and enjoyable, mostly because of the more flattering proportion. I usually wear it with an oxford and ecru jeans, fatigue pants or occasionally a pair of washed navy chinos. It works with a crewneck shetland layered over the oxford on colder days. I’ve also tried it once or twice with grey flannels, and that works pretty well too, although it feels less natural and is a little more of a “look.”
Good old denim jacket are wild with a garage band T-shirt, black jeans (or chino) and devastated vans era or converse.
black sunglasses are mandatory whatever hour of the night it might be.
(and any tubonegro fan should owne one)
I work in a “casual” office, so the denim jacket is second nature–it’s a way to church up the typical T-shirt-jeans-running shoes combo you see a lot in tech. I wear mine with a uniform of black button-ups, gray jeans or cords, and black or gray Converse. I also have one covered with heavy metal band patches, which I love both stylistically and as a kind of self-expression. I’ve found they work surprisingly well with dressier pants and shirts, giving them an edge you wouldn’t be able to find otherwise, but you have to be looking for a little bit of an edge in your look or it will be incongruous. Personally I associate them more with bikers and metalheads than with workwear; the association with womenswear may be a UK thing (I certainly haven’t encountered it in the States).
“So then the obvious question – do you wear a denim jacket, and if so with what?”
I have 2 (a rather angular Polo Ralph Lauren for summer and a Lee Storm Rider for winter, both acquired secondhand for maybe 10€ each) and wear them in most of the ways you mention.
Speaking of womenswear, one option I really like is to wear it exactly like Marily Monroe in The Misfits (https://bamfstyle.com/2022/08/04/misfits-marilyn-denim/): with a relatively casual white shirt and several buttons undone. Occasionally with a coarse-textured tie.
I’ll also layer it over a black turtleneck or a navy sweater and pair them with white/ecru denim or brown Carhartt WIP corduroys, rather than beige chinos or blue jeans. I think the colour difference makes the jacket a lot easier to wear.
And finally, as a mid-layer under a red windbreaker (much like this: https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/raincoat-spring-layering), an overcoat (like Régis Guyot) or even a shearling with extravagant lapels.
I was actually wearing the Polo jacket today, with corduroys and a light-blue t-shirt as we visited the wonderful Open Air Museum in Hakone, Japan.
Well, I’m wearing mine today ! It’s a second hand Lee one – I think type two / 101J, but I am not an expert and it doesn’t say on the label. Today it’s over a mid-grey Dubble Works sweatshirt – trousers are loose tapered dark grey-blue Bedford cord chinos (from HebTroCo), worn with pale suede Clarks Desert Coal boots. Really like this combo, comfy, understated, workwear-ish but not in a demonstrative way !
I use the denim jacket a lot, great as an extra layer over a heavy jumper in winter (maybe under an M65 or a wax jacket), and useful to be able to sling over a t-shirt in the morning / evening of a warmer day. I generally avoid double blue denim, but like it with black denim jeans and it’s also surprisingly good as a contrast to something like charcoal / grey flannels or dark navy linen.
I’ve wanted a denim jacket for a long time. I was swept away by the selvedge jean world in the 2010s, and a denim jacket with denim jeans seemed like too much. This year, after way to much research, I picked up a Super Stitch Paris Type II. It was expensive compared to some others, but all the details in the fabric, the stitches and fit sent me over the edge. It feels like a vintage find, but its brand new and mine to beat up and wear in. I love it!
I have worn it with a lot of stuff. My favorite look, is smashing old work wear and Ivy into a preppy hot rod look if you will. I wear Ben Davis trousers, an oxford shirt, the Type II and Alden Shell loafers. It sounds odd, but I really like it. I have also done the chino look, and I really like it with a chunky sweater underneath.
Double denim is hard! But since the jacket is still new and dark, it looks great with a pair of 1980s Wrangler 13mwz that are really faded.
Excited to use it more with the temps rising too.
Honestly, I think the way to do it is to find a jacket you can “tolerate” wearing, then wear the hell out of it. You’ll get used to its styling, and the jacket will start to shape itself to you. You can figure out how to proportion it as you get more used to integrating it
I was anti denim jacket for years until I got a Levi’s Commuter version to wear on my bike, and now it’s the last item of clothing I’ll ever give up. I’ve been working out a ton lately and it fits a lot tighter than it used to, but I don’t care: I still wear it at every opportunity. It’s perfectly contoured, has faded like a dream, and I routinely get compliments on it whenever I wear it
The trick is to be as casual as possible with it.
I’m a fan of the denim jacket, partly for the rugged aspect to their style but also practicality.
I have one MTM by BHL, with Lily’s help, and a black one from RRL. Initally couldn’t find one that had a short enough body that accommodated shoulders/chest, hence MTM.
I really like them, the 2 standard chest pockets with two internal patch pockets means I can carry all I need, BHL also made a wool liner for me which means I can wear it in cooler temperatures and works twice as well when used in layering. Provides the texture dissonance which I like and additional warmth. I like it layered under coats and the black one works better for tonal colours. Largely stick to chinos but have matched it with flannels from time to time. Think it’s ok if everything else is muted and then you have the pop of denim blue. The Bryceland’s Cash jackets look nice but are denim in style rather fabric.
One question Simon, do you own/wear navy chinos? I did but don’t currently and I think if I ever needed a casual navy trouser that you’d simply opt for dark jeans. For the denim jacket I think the contrast works well because of the flatter colour but no better or worse than dark jeans.
Hey Richard,
That denim jacket sounds great, love to see it sometime. I do find the lack of internal pockets on other ones frustrating. Perhaps I’ll try and get one put in some time, if that’s possible without stitching going through to the front.
I do own navy chinos, but I don’t wear them much. They’re from Casatlantic and fairly smart. I also own some of the blue French-pocket ones from Rubato. I wear them both with mostly navy, blue, white and black things. Good for a slightly smarter look, but not sure I’d wear them with the denim jacket. Perhaps I’ll try that later today when I get home
Did you take your normal size in the Rubato French pocket trousers? I’ve been eyeing those as well
Yes
Yes I’ll have to wear it to an event or pop-up. I’ve had internal pockets added to many jackets before and as long as it can be hidden by using an existing seam then it makes the jacket so much more practical. If you’re willing to take a small risk and you have a tailor/alterations specialist you trust then it should be fine.
Of the navy trousers which do you find more versatile or find yourself wearing more often – the chinos or the French-pocket ones?
Probably the French pockets, but neither are worn too often to be honest
Hi Simon,
I’ve been eyeing up the Rubato five pocket trousers as an alternative to chinos but I notice on their website it mentions colour streaking when washing (i.e. to avoid, reduce spin cycle). Have you experienced any of this with your pair?
It’s certainly something that would sway me back to chinos as they would presumably have a more consistent overall colour fade.
No I haven’t, no streaking. But they do fade a little, which I think is really nice
Out of interest Simon, which casatlantic model do you wear? I’m weighing up a purchase currently
El Jadida
Judd Nelson’s character in The Breakfast Club was a significant denim jacket layering inspiration to me in my teens though I never dared try it myself…too insecure! I’m in my 50s now and do not have one, but have been considering, and specifically non-trucker versions, so looking forward to the next update on the topic.
Hi Simon, I wear a very faded old jacket with dark denim as in one of your photos. Depending on the season either a cashmere or merino crew or sweatshirt underneath in colder weather and a plain T-shirt in warmer times. Colours vary just not too bright. Tend to go for shades of grey in t-shirts. Also under a gilet sometimes. This makes it sound like I wear mine a lot, which I don’t, just occasionally for a change. One other point which I think you mentioned once and which I saw in feature in a woman’s article is the ‘crescent’ of a white t-shirt at the neck, which under a crew neck sweater or sweatshirt.
Another very useful article. Thanks.
Hi simon,
whats the difference between cotton drill and cotton twill. And what would be a better fabric to make trousers out of?
Twill just means the weave – like plain weave etc. Cotton drill is a particular type of fabric, in a twill weave. It’s usually quite dense and uses a coarse cotton, making it hardier.
Hi Simon
Does that mean cotton drill is less likely to bag like sweatpants, and be able to maintain a tubular shape
It should certainly hold it’s shape better, yes, it’s a tough fabric usually
I don’t wear denim jacket much too. But despite it I already own three of them an old Levi’s (early 80’s I think}, blanket lined, short on the hips and with a leather collar, an old Storm Rider and, for the summer, a very nice El Charro (Italian high end brand of that era). I find the cut of such jackets (large shoulders, narrow cut on the hips),increase the wearer figure. And as a side note: I think the best denim jackets seen on the screen are those worn by Mickey Rourke in Homeboy!
Intrigued where you go Simon with your list RE denim jackets. I’ve only started using them as a layering piece in the past 6 months, because they got so little use outside of summer. The gilet idea is pretty good and one I shall try!
In general experimenting has currently led me to two I currently own. The trick really is that they provide sufficient contrast with all my denim (as well as fit). One is 3sixteen’s shadow selvedge – dark enough while not being black, and fading beautifully and being relatively slim fitting. The second is an older vintage, well faded Levis – I found in an L, so quite big but gives a totally different ‘oversized’ look.
I am on the look out for a raw denim jacket – again a nice contrast. One thing which I think works well with jackets is heavier, slubbier materials – something I tend to avoid with jeans.
Hey Simon! Lovely article! Now usually the typical “rule” is to have shoes darker or similar shade to the trousers. I love the snuff suede here but was wondering if this only works here because of jeans and the overall fit being more casual? I have boots in a similar shade and these photos caught my eye as I am looking to find ways to wear them with wider options!
Hey Ray,
Yes that rule only applies to smarter clothing really – where the aim is elegance. With casual things like this you can have a lot more contrast, and snuff with denim is a great combination
Is the reversible valstarino ever coming back
No, sorry David
I think Derek Guy says somewhere that most guys tend to favour either jeans or chinos, but not both. I wonder if there’s something similar at play here, albeit above the waist.
Personally, I lean more towards chinos and chore jackets, never quite managing to make denim jackets work: try as I might, I never quite feel at home in them, the associations don’t feel like me, somehow too “cool”.
I’ve learnt – with a long body and arms – that I do like low, deep pockets on a jacket I can plunge my hands into. Maybe that has something to do with it.
They can look amazing on others, and some great suggestions for how to style them here, many thanks!
Nice article! I’ve also been wearing a denim jacket frequently the past months, as I found an old Levis type 2 in my mothers wardrobe she “borrowed” from a boyfriend in the early 20s. I think that the blouse-like cut looks really nice with high-waisted trousers in general (usually matched with a knit of some kind. IMO it goes good enough with pretty much everything in my casual wardrobe, so I don’t really think about matching it that much.
Hi Erik, A good example here in essentially not overthinking things.
I’ve got a handful of denim jackets. Rarely wear them with tailoring; a shirt underneath at the most.
One is a gray, very short one; originally from the women’s section and bought when I was but a scrawny teenager. It works well for a punk look, the scene I originally come from, with sneakers and cargo pants, but not at all with tailoring. It’s accordingly short though, and I love what it does for my leg length and waist.
Second one is a bright indigo blue one, lined with cotton faux shearling, that’s incredibly cozy in winter. I prefer that one in double denim, with similarly blue trousers (not navy); it looks a bit mismatched, but I’m absolutely in love with the “canadian tuxedo” look (love it for summer too: light blue faded jeans and a light blue, slightly oversized denim shirt on top). That jacket works well with a simple shirt, too; i.e. I have a blue and white, short-sleeved gingham button down that pairs beautifully with it.
And last but far from least, the absolute weirdest, an unexpected thrift store find: a denim sport coat sort of thing. It’s cut much like a safari jacket (five buttons, lapels, pleated bellows hip pockets, shooting pad / storm flap over the shoulders). It’s the weirdest denim I’ve ever seen; blue in the warp and yellow in the weft for an overall greenish blue look. Due to the colour, it doesn’t pair well with blue jeans at all, and I haven’t yet found trousers it does pair well with, but neutrals (gray, cream) pair alright enough with it and I adore the look of the coat. If I ever come across a white denim/chambray shirt, that would be the perfect shirt to go with it.
Jean jackets were definitely a thing in the ’80s and early ’90s. I remember feeling cool when I had one as a youth. It was more of a Harrington style, but denim. No idea who made it, but it was probably a cheap department store item (obviously super rare vintage now…).
Last fall I got a Spier & Mackay denim jacket on clearance. I decided to go for the dark rinse wash with the hope of earning my fades. The dark colour also looks a little smarter. From what I can tell, it’s pretty similar to the Lee 101J but I have no basis for comparison.
Similar to a comment above, I find it very practical as an outer layer over t-shirts and shirts (Oxford, chambray, or even denim). What I like about it is that it has numerous pockets, including internal ones and ones that button closed. It’s useful for throwing on to take the dog for a walk or run out on an errand. I’ve worn it as a mid layer, as well, like a shirt substitute.
For style, while I pause if I’m wearing jeans, I’ve decided that the best approach is to just wear it with whatever I happen to have on (usually cords or chinos). As noted, it’s thrown on when I need to go out, so it’s not like it’s a studied part of an outfit. I find this approach freeing.
In terms of ‘connotations’, I feel kinda punk rock or ‘tough’/cool – that ’80s thing again. I’m under no illusions that I actually give off such vibes. It’s just a jacket.
I should mention that I also have a linen overshirt and a wool overshirt. I find the denim jacket bridges the gap between the two (I need a collared shirt to wear the wool). I also have a cheap Old Navy ‘golf jacket’/spring coat, which occupies a similar space but lacks character.
All that’s to say, if someone is looking for a reasonably practical and potentially stylish layer, a jean jacket can fill the niche.
Finally, I feel compelled to mention that I’m not a “down vest” person – so I would avoid that, myself.
Over the years I’ve usually had a denim jacket to hand, mostly Levi’s, because it’s so versatile. I agree that it works best just thrown on over anything. It doesn’t necessarily ‘work’ as part of an ensemble, but it doesn’t need to because it’s so obviously casual and somewhat careless. A studied outfit is rarely a good idea.
Very interesting article.
I agree the denim jacket beneath the bridge coat or beneath the overcoat (on Bruce Pask, I believe) is “contrived”. Yes, it’s too self conscious, a case of trying too hard to look spontaneous. The style “languages” clash.
I have a great vintage Lee Storm Rider, ca. late ’50s/ early ’60s, wool lined, that I generally wear with strongly contrasting light grey Carhartt jeans and some Thursdays or older suede J Crew boots I have, nothing clunky. Under the jacket goes a snug fitting navy sweater.
I find the jacket works well with some charcoal grey, pinstriped, dressier pants as well.
Hi Simon,
What do you think of Drake’s denim chore coat? It seems like an attempt to incorporate denim into the outfit while avoiding the ordinary ‘look’ associated with a denim jacket. It appears rather popular and perhaps bridges this gap between casual and tailoring you discuss.
Shaoul
I like denim chore coats generally, and have an old Big Mac one myself. I think it can work well.
I’d prefer a chore from someone like Full Count to the Drake’s one, but that’s because I prefer the denim.
On photos I always think ‘damn snuff suede looks great’ and every single time I‘ve tried it on in stores the shade seems to be very different and not compelling at all. Maybe Alden get alternate charges that differ in color? Anyone with insights?
I think Alden is pretty consistent to be honest, but perhaps it’s the photography
Lovely article, Simon. I’ve also found the denim jacket/overcoat pairing a little tough (maybe because, to your point, I feel crammed into the sleeves). The best I’ve seen it done is again by Shuhei Nishiguchi, under an olive trench. Certainly looks less cramped, but I think the textural pairing and the way the saturated denim breaks up the greens/earth tones is also fantastic.
I really like the Type I style, i.e. with one front pocket to the side – but they always (and I get that this is down to reasons of authenticity, efforts which I sometimes find misguided, but that’s a separate issue) have that fiddly buckle sort of thing at the base of the back. If anyone knows of a good Type I that doesn’t have this, I’d be keen to know!
I agree that the denim jacket under a coat looks a bit contrived but I think under the bridge coat looks the most natural of the three. Perhaps I would change my mind if I could see the bridge coat fully, but from the picture it could be a peacoat and it feels like there’s less clash there.
I like the idea of a denim jacket but it’s not one I’ve managed to make work for me. I would like to try a trucker jacket in another fabric such as corduroy though.
Sorry for the double comment but I just had a thought. We’ve had an article on 5 (tailored) jackets and on 5 coats but what about a “if you had 5 casual jackets” article?
Good point Aaron, we have had that on the list for a while. I was a bit worried it would be too personal though?
Maybe, but I think you covered that well in your 5 coats article with suggesting 2-3 coats that fit a particular category.
Yes, good point
It’s hilarious that you publish this article now because I’ve been holding on to more than a few denim jackets in my eBay wishlist before pulling the trigger on one of them. I’ve never considered wearing two shades of blue denim together, but now I’m thinking it’s worth a look.
I really do think your article titled “What to wear with the kids at the weekend” lays a pretty solid foundation for a stupid simple way to get dressed if you don’t want to think about it too much. Just follow whichever permutation of duck canvas/chino cotton, denim, and olive fatigue. I think that’s kind of foolproof honestly. I’m wearing a combo like that right now in the office as I type this: green HBT fatigue pants, a heather grey t shirt, and a vintage denim workshirt worn as an overshirt (in lieu of a denim jacket for now). I have my full strap loafer in black cordovan on feet, but it could go all the way down to canvas sneakers. You wear a similar outfit in pic #3, and that just demonstrates that the fatigue/denim combo works from the darkest indigos to super faded examples as well.
It might be worth just experimenting with tailoring if you can bridge the gap between the smarter and more casual outfits. For example, if you want to copy the color formula from the fatigues, you could try pairing it with your olive trousers from your Ettore de Cesare suit, similar to how you wore those trousers with the JMM black tweed jacket. I’m just throwing ideas out there, but I guess the point I’m trying to make is that a classic denim jacket can be versatile while simultaneously being able to fly under the radar or be the focus of attention, based on the intent when styling it. Cheers, Simon, sorry for the rant!
You’ve mentioned that, as a father, you like work and military clothes on the weekends. Stuff that you don’t mind riding down a slide or dripping ice cream upon. I’m the same with my kids – and so I end up wearing a denim jacket just about every weekend. Except during the summer, of course.
When I’m putting together a denim jacket outfit, I often lean on combinations that echo more classic menswear set ups. Here’s what I mean:
In the fall, a dark blue denim jacket (I have the 3sixteen type 3, blue on black with tonal stitching) with olive fatigues, a plaid flannel shirt and brown boots. A sibling of the navy blazer/madras shirt/olive trousers Ivy look, done up in work and military wear. Flannel shirts can be awfully loud but they almost all seem to work here.
In the winter, that same dark blue denim jacket with faded black jeans and black boots references the navy blazer/charcoal flannels look. I’ve worn this with a light blue denim shirt or a chambray, but my favorite choice here has a single strong color, like a Wythe pearl snap or vintage LL Bean moleskin. Thicker shirts help since the denim jacket isn’t really sufficient against colder temperatures.
And then in the spring, I bring out a vintage Ely Cattleman jacket, frayed and pale. Serves like a slate gray sport coat. Pairing once again with olive fatigues, the lighter the better, or maybe khaki. White jeans would work but they’re just not well suited to playgrounds. A muted linen shirt, maybe in a spring floral color like a pink or yellow stripe, looks great. I don’t like button down collars with a denim jacket, though, not the right shape to my eye.
They are so versatile, i love the look from the 50, 60, 70 very vintage and as you show can be worn in so many ways,
Cheers,
G.
Hi Simon whats the point length of your levis jacket (collar)? 🙂
I’m not sure, let me check
Hey Simon do you have an update on this? 🙂
I don’t, sorry Max, keep forgetting to check when I’m at home
Hey Max – it’s 9cm. Apologies for the delay
I do like the proportions of most denim jackets, though not in love with the super-widespread type-3, I got a second hand PW V.C.’s mechanic denim jacket, which is really a blouson in denim.
However to be honest it sees very little wear, simply because I can’t seem to find a good time of the year for it. It is pretty slim fitting so I can’t really layer under it, yet somehow bulky so can’t effectively layer over it either. Denim is also not very thermoregulating at all, so all in all I almost always prefer linen outerwear in hot weather and wool in cold.
Simon:
I am a denim jacket wearer since childhood, and still like to wear one spring through early fall when the weather is cool. No one has mentioned my very favorite, the Wrangler 11 MJ. I have several selvedge versions from 1965-68. They are short and have a fuller chest and sleeves like the Lee 101J, but they are very well proportioned, at least for me. Also, the denim is really beautiful on Wrangler jackets from this era. In addition, these Wranglers have lower pockets in addition to two chest pockets, so they are a bit more practical.
I did stop wearing them largely for the past two decades, thinking that I was too old for them, but I’ve been enjoying my collection again (I’m 62 now) and feel that with slim chinos or jeans that don’t match, they look flattering. I also love vintage 101Js- I have a few from the mid-1950s to late 1960s, and again the denim is gorgeous. I do have a LVC Type II, which is too boxy for me and a couple of Lee Japan “cowboy” era jackets (design is pre-1947) that I feel look too much like a costume, so I’m not wearing those.
Thanks Jeff – great to have your comments on future articles that are more about the brands to buy, or vintage ones to seek out, as well
I could never convince my 6’3″ tall uni student son to buy or wear a denim jacket, but after finding one made from a soft sashiko dark grey denim on a recent solo trip to Okayama, I took a gamble &am thrilled/relieved that he loves it and is having fun experimenting with different layering combinations. Even managed to (nervously) buy the perfect size..bonus points for me!
It doesn’t quite compete with his favourite leather jacket, but in warmer weather it’s a perfect transitional piece.
I love that the sashiko is so unique & makes the jacket look a bit less work wear, so becomes more versatile in his limited wardrobe.
I have a coverall denim jacket from Tellason, it’s based on traditional denim workwear. I basically wear it through the Irish summer, such as it is, over a t-shirt or a shirt, usually old cowboy shirts, no real thought to it. I would be tempted to buy an Iron Heart or other Japanese denim company denim jacket but 1. I can’t afford it and 2. I aim to wear this one into the ground.
I have a 50 year old ( one owner- myself) Levi red label jacket I wear with tailored trousers and tie as it has the fit of a tailored jacket (look at some military jackets from WW2 America) but also with Helmut Lang cut off jeans and grey T shirt and with horsebit loafers or Onitsuga tiger sneakers..it is a very versatile garment if you are of the petit or the skinny build. Not sure I would wear it under a gilet but possibly under a raincoat. At 50y old, the natural fade and wear gives it a great patina, including a biro stain on one pocket.
My old denim jacket is long since worn out. My partner won’t let my buy another one. Says she associates them with balding men with pony tails.
Great article Simon, with lots of thoughts in it. And a topic which i have been thinking about regularly recently.
I own a denim chore coat in rinsed denim and a trucker jacket in a light tobacco brown cord, both from Drake’s. Interestingly, I have been thinking a lot about if it would have been better to switch the materials – the chore coat in cord and the trucker jacket in denim.
I really like my trucker jacket in cord and especially in that light tobacco brown, but I always feel it would benefit from some stiffer material like denim. The chore coat on the other hand I find visually very appealing in that dark rinsed denim, but I find it would benefit from a material that is not so stiff and drapes better.
So, what are your thoughts about trucker jackets in cord and chore coats in denim?
I think you’re probably right, those are two interesting takes on item/cloth combinations but not the standard ones, and the more standard ones might have been more versatile.
Still, versatility isn’t everything at all and I’m sure those will look nice with lots of things
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the great post. Interesting, living in North America, I found this article surpirsing. Where I live, denim jackets are very common for men and women. So here’s my take on wearing a jean jacket.
To borrow a perspective, on a sliding scale of formality, the denim jacket is probably the most casual a man can wear. More casual than a bomber jacket (suede, leather, and synthetic) and the peacoat. As a result, the clothes paired with the jacket are very casual, too. I’d avoid tailoring. The jacket carries a working class (i.e. workwear) connotation (think: farmers, miners, etc.) that leans more rural than urban — although the jacket is now gone beyond those connotations and is worn frequently in both settings.
A second observation is that, because of the casual* nature of the jean jacket, it looks best when it is worn in and worn easy. Like a good pair of jeans, or the fraying on an oxford cloth button down shirt, the jean jacket looks best when it’s seen some things. I would even say that a jean jacket that looks too new can sometimes look a little unusual and too fashion-forward.
In the spring and fall, I wear my jean jacket many times throughout the week. Most of the below is written with a blue jean jacket in mind, although black can work just about the same too. Here are some of my thoughts on wearing a jean jacket. The jacket is most often worn unbuttoned. Perhaps a couple buttons fastened at the mid section for shape. It is rarely buttoned up fully (or close to fully) — maybe only if due to the weather.
The jean jacket paires best with casual workwear inspired pants. The Canadian tuxedo (not the Bing Crosby formal jacket variety) is the most common combination which is blue jeans and a blue jacket. Where I am people don’t tend to worry too much about the shades of blue and how much they contrast. Other popular pants are also casual: green army inspired pants, black jeans, and workwear khakis (more formal khakis don’t work well in my experience).
Shirts under a jean jacket are also casual. Some options include: a cotton flannel shirt, hoodie, casual cotton grey sweater, or t-shirt.
For shoes, again casual and workwear inspired. Think white trainers, casual sneakers, casual / workwear inspired boots in brown leather or suede.
And for accessories, I find a wider belt works better than a thin one, and for hats try a touque or baseball hat. Even a belt buckle can work.
*While this is a very casual garment, I’d be remiss if I didn’t include a photo of the late great musician Gord Downie accepting an honour in his Canadian Tuxedo.
I also found denim jackets hard to wear. Type 3 never seemed to work due to my build. I actually never knew about type 1 and 2 before this article came out. Recently tried a full count type one and got really really interested.
However great denim top alternative to jacket is overshirt. I just got 18oz iron heart denim cpo and I can tell you right away. As soon as I find higher quality chinos I like and that works for me, this will get a lot of wear. And in 2 years when their 21oz denim shirt comes out, I’ll be grabbing that one too!
Super late to this party, but like you say here, for a long time, I never found a look involving a denim jacket that I felt quite at home in, and basically gave up on the two of them that I had bought over the years. They just felt too workwear and two costumey. But it turns out I simply had the wrong ones, and it wasn’t the look per se, but the details, because I found one that I love. A few things that made the difference for me: a slightly greener cast to the denim, so it doesn’t have the typical brightness of a mid-blue pair of jeans; a very slightly dropped shoulder line with a little bit more room in the chest and a little bit more taper towards the waist to give more a blouson style cut; and factory fading and modest distressing done very well (it’s RRL). My favorite look is adjacent to the one that you find a bit too “straight”, with off white jeans or beige chinos, but with textured cotton knitwear instead of a white T-shirt. (Similar to the ones you do with Speciale.) admittedly, my climate is warm and sunny, and I probably get more mileage out of a look like that than someone living in London ever would.
Hi Simon, what is the denim jacket in the second picture? I personally very much enjoy how it compliments with the chinos. Thanks.
Thanks. It’s from TWC – The Workers Club. Not sure if they still sell it but it was nice