This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology.
Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China.
These new HK tailors are far from unusual, but the result here has been particularly strong, with Buzz bringing both taste and creativity, and tailor Andy technical skill.
This first suit - in a grey tweed - was good in fit and finish. Not perfect, but good, and certainly worth the £1,440 (ex-VAT) it costs.
But while more subjective, the thing that impressed me most was the cut, which I find both comfortable but flattering, soft yet strong.
We had two fittings - one in London and one in Hong Kong - and even then a last check during a fourth meeting when the suit was delivered.
This is one more meeting than the guys are generally aiming for, but it was beneficial in my case and I think worth sticking with (at least for a first suit).
The biggest issue with the fittings, though, was that they were done in a trial cloth - not the final material of the suit.
There are advantages to this, of course, but mostly for the tailor. It makes large changes to the final suit easier, for example.
Personally I found it off-putting, and told Buzz that. I find it harder to conceive how the final suit will look - and therefore comment on what I want in terms of style - when the cloth is different.
It didn't help in my case that the substitute material was a slightly cheap-feeling navy worsted with a red pinstripe.
In fact, I think the biggest issue with this method might be that it leaves less-experienced customers feeling they're getting a cheap Hong Kong suit, rather than the solid tailoring this is.
The actual fit of those fittings, though, was good from the start.
There was a little bit of an issue with my drop-right shoulder and creasing at the top of the sleeve head, but these are not uncommon problems.
The balance was good, the pitch perfect after the first fitting, and just some tightening needed around the neck.
The trousers were more problematic, with not a great first fitting. But the second was good, and the final result good too.
Buzz and Andy were keen to have a slightly higher rise on the trousers - almost at the natural waist. As regular readers will know, this isn’t where I normally have them, particularly since I dislike braces, but I was happy for them to try.
The result was interesting. It was by far the best fitting pair of high-waisted non-braced trousers I’ve had. It almost works on me.
But still, not quite. They sometimes slip a little, and I don't find them as comfortable as lower ones.
So an impressive piece of cutting, given what I’ve experienced before, and certainly still wearable. But next time I’d go back to my normal rise.
The fit in the jacket, as mentioned, was solid.
Smooth around the neck and shoulders, clean through the chest, and with flattering but only subtle shape through the waist. Nice drape in the chest too.
The only issues were shoulders dropping very slightly on the back of the jacket, and the collar not being quite high or tight enough on the neck.
The latter means that although the fit looks good in these images, it tends to slip off the neck when bending or when the jacket is undone.
Of course, the collar will never stay completely rooted if you reach and pirouette, but it could be better. Something that’s fairly easy to tighten on this suit, and deal with completely on any future commission.
The thing is, I love this suit.
That probably doesn’t come across in the comments so far, but I do. And the thing that pushes it from good to great for me, is the style.
Like most new tailors outside the UK, the cut is largely a mix of Florentine and Neapolitan, with a few extra tweaks.
It breaks down like this:
- The shoulders are wide - just off the end of my natural shoulder, but without actually dropping.
- They are particularly sloped, because of that long shoulder and because of the position of the collar
- The lapels are wide, with a slightly low and sharp, square gorge
- There is substantial drape in the chest and back - more than it seems
- And the foreparts are open and curved
The result is a jacket that is very comfortable and, I think, very flattering.
It makes my shoulders look bigger and, as a result, my waist look slimmer (despite the waist being far from tight).
It also looks very relaxed and casual, not sloppy but certainly wearable with jeans (though that would be easier with patch pockets, and it is heavily dependent on the cloth).
The jacket is something I now frequently turn to in the morning, and particularly when travelling. Because it is so comfortable, can easily fit knitwear underneath, and is so versatile in its colour and material.
Focusing the cloth, I would say this is an absolute success in terms of the jacket, but only partially in the trousers.
I went with the tweed because I had seen Buzz wearing the same thing, and really liked it. (Always a good test as to whether your tailor has style - would you wear what he’s wearing?)
I’ve long said that a grey herringbone is one of the most useful jackets to cross from smart to casual. But while I love the cashmere one I had from Ferdinando Caraceni, it was too sleek and smart to wear with casual trousers.
I’ve worn the jacket with jeans, and with a shirt and tie (as here). It works wonderfully.
Tweed trousers, however, are always a risk.
They need to be a particularly dense, tight tweed to work - enough body to keep a good line and drape. And most tweeds are designed for casual jackets, and therefore not woven this way.
This tweed is a little too loose and soft. That doesn’t mean the trousers can’t look good, but they need more regular pressing than most guys will be bothered with. And they aren’t great for travel given how easily they crease.
Of course, if you used a denser tweed for the whole suit, the jacket would lose some of its softness and sponginess. So you can’t win on all counts. (And readers on budgets are always advised to not try - lest they end up with nothing that’s quite right).
The trousers will be worn, but the jacket will be worn much more often.
Finally, a word on the finishing.
Mostly this is very good. The buttons are fine and neat, and there is nice top stitching around the linings inside (shown above).
But there are a few things that could be improved. One is the swelled edge, which is nice on the outside but has long running stitches on the inside; this isn't so noticeable on this tweed, but is on the green cotton we subsequently made.
Another is darts in the chest (under the lapel), which The Anthology use to add greater shape - but some tailors would say is not needed to achieve the effect. Same goes for the insert in the collar, shown below.
There are also a couple of purely aesthetic things, some of which remind me of cheaper Hong Kong tailors - such as putting the selvedge of the cloth along the inside of the trouser turn-ups.
But I realise this is very minor, and very subjective.
Overall, I’m sure there are things that Buzz and the team will change in the future - whether it’s points of tailoring or of process. And the second, cotton suit we made showed they were improving the fit (though there was an issue there with the cotton, which I didn't realise had stretch in the mix.)
But I would repeat that this is a good suit, well fitted, a great style (for me) and excellent value.
I have no hesitation recommending it to someone who likes the style, and whose budget is around the £1,440 (ex-VAT) The Anthology currently charge as a starting price (with jackets from £1,050).
The Anthology are based in Hong Kong and Taipei but currently travelling to London, Tokyo and Singapore for trunk shows, roughly ever 3-4 months. They say they are planning to start travelling to Stockholm, New York and Paris in the future.
The cloth of this suit is Holland & Sherry 8818029 (11oz), from the Sherry Tweed bunch.
With it I am wearing a PS Oxford shirt in pink (a trial piece) with a black-knitted tie and black-cordovan Belgravia loafers from Edward Green.
Buzz is wearing a jacket in Fox Somerset Jacketing, B2692/45, 12/13oz. And Holland and Sherry corduroy trousers, 187102, 9oz.
Photography: Milad Abedi @milad_abedi
I’ve been waiting several months for this review and I’m glad it finally came through. Living in Australia, it’s hard to find the time to fly out to Italy and with The Anthology, I was very much hoping I can get an Italian silhouette. Reading your review, I now feel confident to visit them in Hong Kong. Thank you again, Simon.
BTW, have you any knowledge of C.Coccinella out of Osaka, Japan? They focus on the Florentine cut, too.
Nice to know, thanks.
I know them, but no more than that I’m afraid.
g’day Vince,
yes! as an aussie living in the UK who has the luxury of all these visiting tailors I often worry about what I will do when I return home to Australia in a few years.
Having these guys and the like on our doorstep (Australia has a big doorstep) makes it a little easier.
Hi Jack. That makes me jealous. I really miss London. I hope you take full advantage of the local and traveling tailors that go there.
Beautiful cloth and very nice suit.
I’ve been reading PS for many years now and therefore can understand what you mean in a wider context.
However, other readers may walk away thinking this article is more critical than it really is .
For example , at this price point are some of the points you raise an issue ? On a £4000 plus Cifonelli they may be .
I think this is where , as in the Hifi world, reviews in reference to ‘reference’ pieces may help.
For example pound for pound how does this compare to a more perfect item in terms of fit , price , value etc.
On a second point I think what may help is photographs of some of point’s you make around the ‘failings’.
Otherwise the writing says one thing but the photographs show off (rightly) a beautifully, well fitted suit.
Hi Robin,
Nice point. I hoped to get that across with the points where I described the suit as excellent value. But you’re right, that could be emphasised more.
I should also re-emphasise that these aren’t failings, merely small technical points that perhaps could be improved, and many readers won’t care about. Some like the selvedge are also subjective.
I would hope that this comes across as a very positive review, as it should do and I love the suit, but balanced too.
Simon
I can partly see where Robin is coming from. I think the words of the review do make clear this is positive. However, given the volume of commentary around weaknesses, the positive disposition feels tempered.
I’d also strongly agree with Robin that some photos of the weak points might have been helpful for my learning and understanding (noting that this would further temper the positive impression).
This is really impressive. Especially at that price. Though, and perhaps it’s the way you are leaning, I find the slightly elongated shoulders a little “too” elongated?
I would also, as it happens , love any advice on judging shoulder length/fit on a jacket. I find it somewhat hard to gauge due to stylistic preferences of individual makers.
Thanks also for managing to feature a piece a little more in my budget! Know that is not the purpose of PS per se, but it’s useful for a lot of us.
They are deliberately extended, and I completely understand that it wouldn’t be everyone’s style.
In terms of judging width, always start with the assumption that the seam should be on your shoulder bone, the point at the end. Then you can move a little smaller or a little longer, depending on taste. Personally I think it becomes too big when there’s any droop at the end, or a lot of padding is needed to extend it.
On budget, this is exactly the kind of thing PS will always cover. £1500 is still a lot for a suit for most people, and it’s a good starting point for many. it’s more the MTM around this price or cheaper that we would tend not to cover.
Thankyou Simon,
Just to rephrase – my point on budget simply alludes to the fact i have never seen PS as a “top 10 suits under £500 !” type magazine, but a site that celebrates tailoring and craft first and foremost, and factors price in as a relevant consideration, rather than a headline.
Cheers Chris
Interesting that they use a toile at this price point- not sure how they can make this work even using cheaper Chinese production. Must be very little profit on the first suit assuming subsequent suits do not have a toile. I often wonder of the dynamics of this cheaper bespoke: does it encourage people to try bespoke who otherwise wouldn’t or encourage those who currently spend more to save money or try something different at reduced price or a combination of these reasons? When do we reach saturation point?
Tweed trousers are generally a mistake: bagging; wear around the seat; rumpling etc etc. Been there done that. Save them for shooting when there’s little sitting down!
Assume you mean on a soft loose tweed rather than a hard tweed like a Harrisons Glenroyal?
Would you say that there is border line to much roping in the shoulder to wear the jacket with jeans?
Yes absolutely, a more natural shoulder is one element that makes a jacket easier to wear with jeans
I just wondered because you said “I’ve worn the jacket with jeans, and with a shirt and tie (as here). It works wonderfully”. Not sure of the contradiction?
Wondering how does this compare with your Prologue jacket…with the proviso that the Prologue isn’t exactly full bespoke. Any plans to try other HK tailors such as WW Chan (travels to London) or Dream Bespoke (no trunk shows)?
I’d say that it’s slightly above Prologue in terms of the make, though Prologue do fit in the finished material, which I prefer.
And the styles are quite similar, but the Anthology one is a little more stylised, most obviously in the width of the shoulder. It’s also cut with a little more room/comfort.
I am currently trying WW Chan actually, I have a fitting next week. But no, not Dream Bespoke.
Hi Simon,
Is the cloth Harris tweed or Sherry tweed? I’m not certain that Sherry tweed is in fact “Harris” tweed, at least according the H&S bunch description.
Best
Good point, sorry. I thought it was Harris, but I’ll double check
You’re right, the Sherry Tweed bunch is not strictly Harris Tweed, primarily because Harris legally has to be woven on Lewis or Harris to qualify.
In terms of the qualities of the material itself, the yarn between the two is basically the same, but the Sherry Tweed is woven a little tighter and is a little lighter in weight. And the designs are all very similar too, often inspired by traditional Harris ones.
I’ll update the post to remove Harris references, for simplicity. Cheers
Met the team in London during your pop-up, very nice chaps and have serious taste and style. Good to know you like their suit. I shall commission a piece from them if so. Will you also be doing a write-up about their lazyman jacket? I have one and I like it. Wishing them all the best.
Yes I will
Do you have any update regarding the Lazyman jacket? I’d love to see one in person, but that’s not practical. I’m athletic but 5.7 so the shorter length of the jacket is unlikely to be an issue for me.
It seems like it would be a very useful casual piece in the COVID or post-COVID world. For instance, I could easily see my self wearing the navy one over a shirt for a video call, or wearing it to the office on the rare occasion in which I do go in (right now, the office is empty, so office dress coat tends toward casual, although I still wouldn’t wear jeans). I could also see taking this on a family holiday if I want something to dress up slightly that travels easily / doesn’t wrinkle.
As an aside, how do you think the navy Lazyman compares with wearing a navy shawl cardigan? Both are casual alternatives to a sports coat. Perhaps the cardigan is slightly more casual? Is there any situation in which you would wear one and not the other?
Thanks!
No update I’m afraid, sorry. But I’ll try to do something – it is more of the season for these lightweight unstructured jackets too.
This is much more similar to a jacket than knitwear, whereas the shawl is still knitwear. You’ll feel more dressed up in the lazyman, and it’s more natural to go out with as an outer layer.
How would you compare the Lazyman with the Armory blousons? Both of the Armoury ones have buttons and a collar (like the Lazyman) so share some resemblances with a sports cost without being a sports coat.
For instance, this navy cotton one:
https://thearmoury.com/products/cotton-ripstop-3-pocket-blouson?variant=31841623212103
And this sage one:
https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-linen-3-pocket-blouson?variant=32431692939335
Leaving aside differences in fabric, would you use them under similar circumstances / for similar occasions?
The Lazyman is a chore-coat style. It is meant to be as long as a jacket, or a little shorter. A blouson is not, it is supposed to sit on the hips. They are different traditions of clothing.
But yes I’d still wear them in similar circumstances, they are similar levels of formality. The differences there would be more in the materials.
Looks really good to me.
Personally I’d have had it with patch side pockets. It would have completed the louche look and made it even more wearable with jeans.
I also don’t agree that herringbone strides are difficult to wear. I think they are great and look particularly good with a shawl collar cardigan. The fact that they bag a little and don’thold their crease adds to their louchness.
One question from me – if one was restricted to London fittings, how long would it take from start to finish ?
Although it breaks with my made in the UK rule, I’m sorely tempted. What self respecting flaneur wouldn’t be at this price ?
You’d be looking at three appointments probably, so 6-9 months.
I fully agree with you Simon on your assessment of the Antholgy. Ordered a jacket and really like it, but would have really preferred having a fitting in the final cloth, particularly if you are going for a very light/heavy cloth and the fitting is in a mid-weight this could influence the quality of the final result (I think). I also feel like even though I love having a jacket in this style I probably wouldn’t order an office suit with Anthology.
Also, wanted to highlight that even though I love the vast majority of stuff you do here on PS, it is reviews like these that make me a regular reader (on this note I am really looking forward to a review of Cornacchia). Are you by any chance planning anything with Kenjiro Suzuki or Corcos in the future btw?
Thanks. Cornacchia will be in a month or two.
Suzuki yes, Corcos no.
Funny you would go with Suzuki. I’m not a big fan of his style, from the pictures I’ve seen, but looking forward to your review. Can you say when it will come?
Corcos, on the other hand, looks great, but similar in style to the Anthology or Prologue, don’t you think?
Yes, Corcos has a similar combination of styles. I really admire what he’s doing, I’m just going to Paris a little more regularly at the moment.
Kotaro travels to Paris and London twice a year. Pitti is also two times a year. Therefore it should be possible to get a suit within 12-18 months.
Thanks, I didn’t realise on the London trips. I must be out of touch there
Corcos says he is not taking any new customers, so the value of a review for readers may be limited.
New York is well represented with traveling tailors. The one hole in the offering is a Florentine style at a price point well below Liveran’os. The first tailor to get to NYC with that style and price point will get a commission from me. I have been trying to coax Prologue to come, but with no luck, so maybe Anthology will be the one.
Your point on style and comfort really resonated. I keep coming back to my Anthology jackets because they just fit so well and comfortably.
I really like the look of this suit, in fact I’ve been considering a grey herringbone or Donegal suit myself. I have a couple of questions.
Firstly, the trousers look quite full in the upper parts, thigh to knee, is that correct? It puts me in mind of your observations about the cut of your trousers from Saman Amel. Would that be right?
Secondly, the price is comparable to that of W&S and SA. Based on this suit, how does Anthology compare with them?
They are a little full, yes, but they don’t have the issues the Saman Amel ones had, no.
Whitcomb is rather different in style and make – a higher level of make generally, and a much more English style.
The case for Saman Amel is more around style and being made in Italy, where the other two are made in China and India
I love this suit, Simon!
Thanks for sharing this! I also must add that I am pleased that yr finally pulling the trigger on a possible pink addition to yr PS line up of OCBDs! The color is quite perfect!
I am in fact wearing nearly an identical ensemble today with regards to the garments; save that my shirt while identical in color is one of Dad’s old pink Brooks OCBDs, as is my navy silk knit tie (Granddad’s), and my suit is olive green with marled goldenrod micro HBT tweed in a sack cut, but with no turn ups, and belt loops. My shoes however are English tan split toe moc bluchers worn with a tan teju lizard skin belt. I’ve also opted for a white linen pocket kerchief. Yr suit is quite smart, Sir! I’m sorely tempted to try them, but the darts would bother me….. Do they insist upon the darting?
Thanks again for all of the information, research, and enjoyment which yr posts bring!
No worries Evan – your outfit sounds quite something.
Yes, they wouldn’t really cut a sack suit as you like.
Thanks for the review Simon. I appreciate you investing your resources in reviewing more affordable tailors.
To put the anthology in context, style notwithstanding, how would the finishing compare with similarly priced City tailors like Graham Browne and Macangus and Wainwright?
Regarding the sherry tweed, I have a jacket (different colour) made of it and I also felt it was soft and comfortable. Lighter and less hairy than a rougher tweed but less formal than something like flannel.
Interesting on comparing it to those City tailors. I’d say it’s about the same, but some points of difference like the idiosyncrasies with the Anthology I pointed out.
Hi Simon,
I am a bit confused on your desciption on what is a high rise trouser. Ever since I started commission suits and pants, it seems to me all of them are high rise compared to high street and off the rack brands. Would you share some light on this and again the pros and cons with either height?
It’s one for a separate post with pictures I think Nicolas. But very briefly, high rise is relative and can mean different heights. A real high rise is usually on the natural waist – between your ribs and hip bones
Thank you! Looking forward for a post on that in the future then.
I love the roping on these shoulders, everything just looks soft, comfortable yet strong. The shape in the back is also lovely, even if it might not be a tight fit. The open fronts also look great; come to think of it, the whole silhouette is just wonderful. I think I see why you like this jacket so much.
Simon, what is the width at the cuff or bottom of trouser?
It seems really good. Curious to know what suits you consider “perfects” in your wardrobe.
Nothing is perfect – I think aiming for that, particularly among newcomers to bespoke, is part of what causes disappointment.
Most especially as you will always change shape, even just slightly, over time.
Absolutely love this cut. I’ve followed Anthology on Instagram for a while and it’s probably my favorite aesthetic of all the various contemporary makers. That they intend to start coming to the USA is very good news (hoping they’re able to in short order), especially given the price point. Suit looks absolutely fantastic, Simon.
Looking forward to the pink Oxford cloth. Colour and texture look really nice.
Best wishes.
Cheers Nigel. It is lovely
Off topic. But, I seem to recall you were going to do an orazio luciano review. Is that still in the works?
Yep, still coming. Hopefully have the final jacket in the next few weeks
This suit looks amazing and the value seems very good.
Based on the pictures alone, the proportions of this suit are fantastic. In this respect and with note to the absence of a profile shot here, this is a better piece than your Caraceni. The more open quarters make the primary difference.
How did it feel getting high-end tailoring in the midst of tear gas?
Fortunately my fitting took place before the recent protests.
Nice Suit.
It’s interesting that you say you would wear the jacket with jeans (I think a very light wash could be quite good). I have noticed 1) that it is hard to wear a jacket with pants that are more colorful/saturated (one reason why grey, olive, and khaki pants are so useful), and 2) that it generally looks better when the trousers drape at least as well as the jacket (one reason why I think corduroy trousers are hard to wear with a non-corduroy jacket). Denim is more colorful and saturated than grey and drapes less well than tweed.
I have a grey herringbone tweed jacket (from Orazio) and find it hard to find pants that match with it aside from grey, khaki, and olive. I imagine cream would work, but I don’t think I could pull them off as well as you can Simon (I also worry about stains).
Also, it’s good to see more affordable things reviewed on this site. Hopefully, they start travelling to the US soon (and often enough to make things worthwhile).
Hi Simon,
Thanks for another invaluable piece. I think my work and personal style is largely suited to a jacket and separate trouser ‘uniform’ that you have written about previously. When commissioning work do you tend to find commissioning both jacket and trousers together as this works out more economical and provides more options to ‘mix and match’ (even if you envisage wearing the items separately)?
Hi,
No I tend to commission separately – it’s not usually more expensive, and it means I can get one jacket, try it with the trousers I have, and then see what else would work well
A good, versatile, addition to the wardrobe and clearly one that you like. The design and cloth choice will give longevity but seeing you next to Buzz I can’t help wondering whether you should be more adventurous in your colour choices. I understand why you pick a palette of restrained, muted tones (long term investment, discrimination of taste etc.) but I think it would enhance your wardrobe and bring a lighter, balanced (vs, the muted shades), younger and more casual style tone if some brighter colours were occasionally and thoughtfully embraced?
Perhaps.
As a personal style I tend to prefer subtle mixes of colour, and I like to look simply well dressed rather than stand out – have obvious things that people can point to, that they say ‘oh he’s wearing that jacket’.
Put another way, if I’m standing at a bus stop at home, I don’t want to look like someone who works in fashion.
Clothes that draw you in.
I can’t help wonder if this idea is rooted in fear of being different and an individual. If you anchor yourself to not wanting to stand out too much by definition you are trying to blend in to some extent with other men who these days usually dress terribly. The result is that the aesthetic is bland, proportions are pushed toward whatever is fashionable. What is fashionable today is unstructured, narrow and tight fitting tailoring which in my subjective opinion is unflattering for most men. Why not be more daring in your choices?
I see what you mean, but I don’t think it is, Rups. I still look very much an individual, and different, and very rarely ever see people dressed like me.
My choices are still just as personal, idiosyncratic, and centred around my taste how it has developed.
I think whether something is loud and stands out in that way is different. You can do that in bright trainers just as much as in bright tailoring, but the trainers might be very fashionable and what many others are wearing.
It’s perhaps also worth mentioning that my taste comes from many years of trying dramatic things – a purple jacket, a floorlength coat with a massive collar, a royal-blue DB flannel suit, a cream linen suit, bright Berluti shoes etc. It’s something that has come from trying a pretty wide range, and then settling where I’m comfortable.
You mentioned about how grey herringbone works well because of its versatility. Do you think the material works well then if one were to try making a DB overcoat or jacket with it? Or would that look awkward because its leaning too far towards formal wear?
I think it could certainly look nice, and it would be quite useful. But an overcoat has to be very versatile indeed. If you don’t already have one or two good ones, then a plain navy or plain brown might be most useful
What’s the timeline for the pink Oxford, roughly? Wearing the blue one today and looking forward to adding. Thanks!
Next Spring probably. White coming first…
I just picked up a jacket from The Anthology and couldn’t be happier. Opinions on the style are subjective of course but I find the cut both flattering and comfortable. I also imagine it will be quite versatile.
off topic so apologies, but im so looking forward to more PS oxford colours. pale yellow next? pleeeease?
White is next, coming in a couple of weeks, and probably pink after. I’ll look at yellow
Have you ever used P.A Crowe? Are they supposed to be any good?
Worth a search – PA Crowe
I asked the question about colour. I read Rups’ thoughts but, as I also live near London, I understand your thinking about not standing out and being part of what generally is a restrained palette etc. However having lived in other cities wherein more colour, or at least a more expressive form of dress was encountered I wonder whether, in part, it is a matter of location (London can be, in the main, a bit dreary). For example in your travels to Italy I’m sure you’ve seen a wider aesthetic in regards to colour. You’ve personalised an intellectual response but I can’t help wonder that if you were, say, based in Rome for a year or two whether the greys would disappear and the oeuvre would become a little more Italianate?
That’s a good point, yes I think that makes some difference.
Milan and the north of Italy generally is similar to London, but Rome and further south is certainly more colourful.
I think urban v country also makes a difference. I’d be more likely to be wearing warm browns, russety reds etc if I was out in the country most days.
Hi Simon
Love the style of suit and I wouldn’t go for tweed I’d prefer a heavy flannel.
Want to start investing in bespoke but not got the budget for a Saville Row suit. Where would you suggest I start for a similar style of cut.
If you want a cut similar to this, then your options for bespoke basically are the Anthology or Prologue
I thought Anthology was bespoke but Prologue refers to themselves as MTM?
Is there a material difference between what the two offer? I know a lot of tailors these days play on the definitions when, really, they are simply by-words for fit and quality.
Prologue refers to itself more generally as semi-bespoke because less of the work is done by hand. They also don’t do that many fittings (same as Anthology there though). Details on the Prologue review
Thanks Simon! Contacted Anthology and they’re coming over in January and will make a booking. Phil
Hi Simon
Had a appointment with Anthology at their recent trunk show in London and going for grey flannel as mentioned. Unfortunately couldn’t make Prologue trunk show last week.
On separate note have you come across Signature Bespoke in Liverpool and what’s your view on Anthony Sinclair these days?
Many Thanks
Nice to hear.
I don’t know enough about either to pass comment really. Sorry
Hi Simon,
Really prowling PS today as I’m about to buy a few things – a coat and a couple of sports jackets – and am drawing some inspiration from your work, so do forgive the barrage of questions across comments sections.
How would you say Anglo-Italian compares across the board (style, fit, cut, value etc.) to the anthology? Absolutely love your anthology herringbone jacket and would have one made myself were it not for COVID-19. Been considering waiting for Saman Amel to come in september or rather pop down to Anglo Italian some-time this week to get a mid-grey herringbone made to measure. If I went in with your anthology jacket in mind, would I be disappointed with their result?
Best, once again,
Jackson
Hey Jackson,
I don’t think you would be, no. However, have you read through all the details on the review of the jacket here, and the review of the Anglo jacket? Most of the points about style, fit, cut etc are answered by comparing those two.
I have, but not by way of comparison. Probably a good idea! Will have a look again.
Thanks again
Hi Simon
Just wanted to check in with you about my experience at Anglo Italian and ask you if it was in anyway consistent with your expectations/ own experience.
I popped in the other day to get a jacket made – using the same H&S cloth you used here – and all in all I left a little discombobulated. As my fitting was being taken, the guy doing it kept running back and forth to deal with RTW customers. He’d be measuring my back whilst leaning over his shoulder to talk with a customer about a pair of jeans. It wasn’t entirely reassuring. Also he didn’t measure my actual body but used a jacket and some pins to take measurements, jotting down the occasional dimension on a worksheet of sorts. I’m not sure if this is normal? It seems to lack precision and when I asked if he needed to measure my actual body, he said it was easier that way. I couldn’t help thinking easier for whom?
It was only after a discombobulating 1hr and a half that I left realizing that many of the questions I had had remained unanswered, as he would rush off to help a RTW customer decide between shirts or to take measurements for omeone else looking to get trousers fitted whilst I was stood with a pinned jacket on waiting for 10-15 mins at a time. I will definitely raise this with them but given the cost – this is the first time I’ve ventured into MTM – am aware of multiple places that would offer a far more personalized service with a greater focus on a clients individual needs. I chose the style they over but all other expectations were left unmet. Were my expectations unreasonable? I left realizing I didn’t even ask about button type, lining etc. and can’t help but feel the rushed atmosphere was in large part to blame and that these were choices the should have asked of me themselves, no?
Jackson
Hey Jackson,
This isn’t consistent with my experience, no, but then I’m probably not typical in that regard. While I don’t think people make me a better product, they might well give me more attention.
It doesn’t sound like you received enough attention, but I don’t think it’s worth me commenting on that. I think you should raise it with them – I know it’s hard, but it’s worthwhile for both of you.
As to the measurements, it’s certainly not uncommon to use an existing jacket to help with a MTM product. I would have expected them still to take body measures, but I wouldn’t worry too much. The lack of service and how that made you feel seems like the bigger issue.
Let me know how things go
Hi Simon
That makes sense. I can imagine they’d respond to you much like a restaurant owner might a well known food critic.
You’re right. Rather than run crying to Permanent Style, I’ll take my grievance to them directly. I justified it on the day with the notion that more personalised attention to detail would be on the day of the first fitting, but in hindsight it seemed rushed to the point of genuinely lacking professionalism and there were things that I wanted to include (dark brown tortoiseshell buttons for instance and full lining) that I didn’t really get an opportunity to bring up.
Do you think such buttons would be a nice touch or a horrible clash, by the way?
Anyway, I will call them early next week!
As ever, thanks a lot for your interest and advice – it is much appreciated.
Jackson
No problem Jackson.
Tortoiseshell might be a little gimmicky, and something you find you change later on. But there’s no harm in trying – it is an easy thing to change.
Lovely write up. I’m very happy to read that Stockholm is in the future plants, as I’ve been politely nagging on Buzz and the guys from time to time to come over here.
I really like the overall look here and ironically, I do feel that this higher rise just looks better on you when when worn.
And on that subject, you mention that the trousers needs to be pulled up during the day, is this only with higher rise trousers for you?
I find no matter where my rise ends up, trousers hike down and need to be pulled up throughout the day, regardless of belt, adjusters etc. I find this with mtm and bespoke as well as with OTR denim.
Thanks JB. And I agree, it looks better with a jacket on. But less so with out the jacket, and not comfortable/practical.
My trousers never need to be adjusted up when lower, on the hips, no.
Hi Simon,
May I ask why the stretch in the cotton fabric bothered you? Or was it simply because it wasn’t planned for?
Thanks,
I just don’t like stretch in tailoring materials. Particularly in jackets.
In theory it helps you move, allowing the material to follow your body. But actually, it just means you’re constantly being tugged and pulled at, as you move and the elastic tries to pull you back. It also usually doesn’t age or drape as well as pure non-synthetic.
Hi Simon,
Great style on this jacket indeed and it does look comfortable. Would this jacket be smart enough with charcoal flannels and a white oxford and tie for a law firm casual Friday?
Keep up the great work. Congratulations on the birth of your daughter and happy holidays to you and your family.
Yes I would have thought so. Though it depends rather on the firm – if you work there, I think assess based on who you see around you. If you don’t and are applying, wait until you do before assessing these things perhaps
Hi Simon,
Really thanks for your honest review. I’ve booked my first appointment for their trunk show in London next month.
As for the fabric, I am planning for a brown cashmere suit, but a bit worrying about the durability of the suit, anything in particular you would suggest or recommend? I only know they’re mainly bringing Holland&Sherry collections.
Best regards,
Zhen
Oh good.
I would strongly suggest not going for a cashmere suit. Cashmere rarely makes good trousers – it would need to be worsted and very densely woven to do so. It’s a mistake I’ve made in the past.
I’d suggest brown flannel instead, from Holland & Sherry or Fox
Simon,
Thanks for ur suggestions, and based on ur previous “mistake” , I would take the suggestion and go for flannel instead, and of course feel the fabric in person on the day to make my final decision.
Cheers again for the help and happy New Year!
Best regards,
Zhen
Happy New Year too Zhen. I hope your suit turns out wonderfully
20 years ago there were several cashmeres worthy of a suit should a customer want one. Today, knowing first hand what cashmere used to be, not one is worthy of even a coat. Go with Fox Heritage Flannel. It is an extremely worthy flannel. The only flannel I work on.
Hi Frank,
Thanks for the informative comment. As I have looked into Fox Bro’s heritage collection, the hazel brown herringbone (code: FS479L-A2713/55) has just caught my eyes straight away, have you come across this particular flannel before?
Best regards,
Zhen
Yes, Zhen, I have. You cannot go wrong with Fox Heritage flannel. It’s has great integrity. I also highly recommend Fox Air 10oz for summer. It is a brick of a cloth.
Happy New Year
Frank
Frank,
Oh it’s a nice one to look at too, since the tube in London it’s like an oven at peak times. God bless me in summer.
Thanks for the info and Happy New Year to you too!
Best regards,
Zhen
Hi Simon,
Was there ever a review of your cotton suit from The Anthology? If not, it would be interesting to have your view on it.
No, I haven’t done one. I can look to do so when it’s easy to take photographs again, though I’d say 90% of it would be the same as this review.
Was there anything specific you were interested in with that piece? More the cloth?
Yes, it was more the cloth and how well you thought the Anthology style works with it. I guess that the rest of the review would be pretty similar unless you’d made significant changes between the two suits, which I didn’t get the impression that you had.
I didn’t, no. Good to know though RT, thanks
Dear Simon,
may I ask which buttons you chose? Are they unpolished dark grey/dark brown/black?
I have a similar grey tweed-jacket and want to replace the buttons.
Thank you!
Unpolished dark-brown – what I have on most things.
Cheers
How does the quality of bespoke by Anthology compare with Whitcomb and Shaftesbury? They both seem to be in the same price range.
Of course, looks like the styles are a bit different, which is another consideration.
Yes, style should be a big consideration. The quality of Whitcomb is probably a little higher
In your recent article on a capsule collection of jackets you referenced this kind of grey as being highly versatile. I have been gifted a jacket in a similar shade to this, although a donegal, rather than a herringbone.
I’m curious to know what odd trouser colours have been most successful for you in combination with this jacket. The bulk of my odd trousers are mid grey, so won’t offer enough contrast. I have a pair in olive that go well, but beyond green, where do I go? I’m thinking dark browns and possibly charcoals, but am curious to know what works for you.
Yes, dark green and dark brown are good. Also charcoal, all colours around beige and stone, and dark navy. Also cream. Hopefully denim too, if it’s not too formal a make
Hi Simon,
Would like to ask you now you opinion on the should style of this jacket, specially the little ropping on the shoulders , when styling it with more casual outfits, such as chinos and jeans. I feel that you normally would recommend a “no ropping” shoulder when this was the focus, is that right?
Besides it, would you comment on anything on the jacket that you would prefer to do differently in another commission?
(by the way, I absolutely love this jacket, as I may have mentioned in the past)
Cheers and wish you a nice weekend
Tamaki
Hi Tamaki,
Yes, you’re right, I would usually recommend a natural shoulder, with no roping, for a casual jacket to be worn with jeans and so on.
This jacket is OK, because the roping is quite understated, and low because of the extended shoulder, and most importantly because the material makes the jacket so casual. If the material were borderline, that shoulder might make more of a difference.
No, I don’t think there’s anything I would change!
Hi!
What is the shoulder to shoulder measurement on this jacket? And what is the ‘average’ shoulder to shoulder measurements on your jackets? Asking because I’m going to have a jacket made and want to try making it with extended shoulders. I know it’s relative to body size, but it would be nice to get your input.
Thanks
I don’t think an average would be very helpful, as they vary quite a lot. You can see if you look through all the shoulder measurements in our Style Breakdown series (those measurements are the shoulder seam, collar to sleevehead).
I haven’t measured this one but if you want to know it for comparison I can do so this weekend.
I actually just bought your tailoring book, so have the collar to sleevhead measurements readily available. It would be great if you could measure the Anthology jacket from shoulder to shoulder this weekend, if you get the chance, though.
Thanks!
Oh good.
I’m not going to be able to do the over-the-shoulder soon, as I need someone else, but the equivalent measure for that Anthology is 6.75 inches
Thanks
When it comes to versatile tailoring, I think this suit is right up there with your Ettore de Cesare olive cord commission.
Like many readers I suspect, I love the idea of getting a semi-formal, ‘three-fer’ suit… one that works as a suit, but whose jacket goes with jeans, and whose trousers can work without the jacket.
Do you think this material could fit that bill? I’m particularly keen to get a mid-grey, autumn-winter suit whose constituent parts will get maximum wear.
The Sherry Tweed is softer and looser than ideal for a trouser… but how much does that really matter? After a year of wear, would you go so far as to say it doesn’t work? For all that an 18oz Thornproof would hold its shape better, I know which fabric I’d sooner wear in a warm London Underground carriage.
At present I’m weighing up Porter and Harding Thornproof 62263 (too flat?) or 62269 (too 1920s Hollywood??), vs the Sherry Tweed bunch you used here. If there is slightly a denser grey herringbone, I’d love to know of it!
Thanks Will. I’d really advise against trying to get something that works in all those ways – there’s just too much of a chance you’ll end up with something which isn’t quite right in either. I’d certainly say this tweed just doesn’t really work as trousers.
Get a perfect jacket material and a separate perfect trouser material instead.
Hey Simon- Such good stuff. Really enjoy these HK tailor reviews. Hear so much about them. Never tried one but it’s intriguing. Agree shoulder silhouette is kind of “louche”. A welcome break from your SR rope style. Does lack of a belly on the lapels allow for cost cutting? I suspect a straight finish requires less handiwork. What is selvedge cloth? Are you referring to the heel guard fabric strip? And Merry Christmas.
No, I’m afraid a lack of belly isn’t any cheaper! Still the same finish, either hand or not.
The selvedge is the strip along the edge of the cloth that says the makers’ name.
hi simon, I’m considering an anthology rtw jacket down the year (https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jacket/wool-silk-truffle) but wanted to get your opinion if they can be dressed down with jeans/army chinos? To my eye the jacket looks pretty formal (rollino shoulders but clean with no shirring, lower gorge) say to something like the armoury/ring jackets…
yes, personally I’d say that’s a little formal for jeans
Please look at the finish of the tweed suit trousers,
Bespoke tailor I don’t think so,
Thanks for the comment Jimmy – what are you referring to specifically? The width of the cloth in the side adjustor?
Hi Simon – would you wear this jacket with grey flannels or would it be too close in style without being the same? Thanks!
Too close really. Charcoal flannels are just about OK, but you need some warmth in the colours elsewhere
Thanks Simon