The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review

Wednesday, November 20th 2019
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This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. 

Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. 

These new HK tailors are far from unusual, but the result here has been particularly strong, with Buzz bringing both taste and creativity, and tailor Andy technical skill. 

This first suit - in a grey tweed - was good in fit and finish. Not perfect, but good, and certainly worth the £1,440 (ex-VAT) it costs. 

But while more subjective, the thing that impressed me most was the cut, which I find both comfortable but flattering, soft yet strong. 

We had two fittings - one in London and one in Hong Kong - and even then a last check during a fourth meeting when the suit was delivered. 

This is one more meeting than the guys are generally aiming for, but it was beneficial in my case and I think worth sticking with (at least for a first suit).

The biggest issue with the fittings, though, was that they were done in a trial cloth - not the final material of the suit. 

There are advantages to this, of course, but mostly for the tailor. It makes large changes to the final suit easier, for example. 

Personally I found it off-putting, and told Buzz that. I find it harder to conceive how the final suit will look - and therefore comment on what I want in terms of style - when the cloth is different. 

It didn't help in my case that the substitute material was a slightly cheap-feeling navy worsted with a red pinstripe.

In fact, I think the biggest issue with this method might be that it leaves less-experienced customers feeling they're getting a cheap Hong Kong suit, rather than the solid tailoring this is. 

The actual fit of those fittings, though, was good from the start.

There was a little bit of an issue with my drop-right shoulder and creasing at the top of the sleeve head, but these are not uncommon problems.

The balance was good, the pitch perfect after the first fitting, and just some tightening needed around the neck.

The trousers were more problematic, with not a great first fitting. But the second was good, and the final result good too. 

Buzz and Andy were keen to have a slightly higher rise on the trousers - almost at the natural waist. As regular readers will know, this isn’t where I normally have them, particularly since I dislike braces, but I was happy for them to try. 

The result was interesting. It was by far the best fitting pair of high-waisted non-braced trousers I’ve had. It almost works on me.

But still, not quite. They sometimes slip a little, and I don't find them as comfortable as lower ones. 

So an impressive piece of cutting, given what I’ve experienced before, and certainly still wearable. But next time I’d go back to my normal rise. 

The fit in the jacket, as mentioned, was solid. 

Smooth around the neck and shoulders, clean through the chest, and with flattering but only subtle shape through the waist. Nice drape in the chest too.

The only issues were shoulders dropping very slightly on the back of the jacket, and the collar not being quite high or tight enough on the neck. 

The latter means that although the fit looks good in these images, it tends to slip off the neck when bending or when the jacket is undone. 

Of course, the collar will never stay completely rooted if you reach and pirouette, but it could be better. Something that’s fairly easy to tighten on this suit, and deal with completely on any future commission. 

The thing is, I love this suit. 

That probably doesn’t come across in the comments so far, but I do. And the thing that pushes it from good to great for me, is the style. 

Like most new tailors outside the UK, the cut is largely a mix of Florentine and Neapolitan, with a few extra tweaks. 

It breaks down like this:

  • The shoulders are wide - just off the end of my natural shoulder, but without actually dropping. 
  • They are particularly sloped, because of that long shoulder and because of the position of the collar
  • The lapels are wide, with a slightly low and sharp, square gorge
  • There is substantial drape in the chest and back - more than it seems
  • And the foreparts are open and curved

The result is a jacket that is very comfortable and, I think, very flattering. 

It makes my shoulders look bigger and, as a result, my waist look slimmer (despite the waist being far from tight). 

It also looks very relaxed and casual, not sloppy but certainly wearable with jeans (though that would be easier with patch pockets, and it is heavily dependent on the cloth).

The jacket is something I now frequently turn to in the morning, and particularly when travelling. Because it is so comfortable, can easily fit knitwear underneath, and is so versatile in its colour and material. 

Focusing the cloth, I would say this is an absolute success in terms of the jacket, but only partially in the trousers. 

I went with the tweed because I had seen Buzz wearing the same thing, and really liked it. (Always a good test as to whether your tailor has style - would you wear what he’s wearing?)

I’ve long said that a grey herringbone is one of the most useful jackets to cross from smart to casual. But while I love the cashmere one I had from Ferdinando Caraceni, it was too sleek and smart to wear with casual trousers. 

I’ve worn the jacket with jeans, and with a shirt and tie (as here). It works wonderfully. 

Tweed trousers, however, are always a risk. 

They need to be a particularly dense, tight tweed to work - enough body to keep a good line and drape. And most tweeds are designed for casual jackets, and therefore not woven this way. 

This tweed is a little too loose and soft. That doesn’t mean the trousers can’t look good, but they need more regular pressing than most guys will be bothered with. And they aren’t great for travel given how easily they crease. 

Of course, if you used a denser tweed for the whole suit, the jacket would lose some of its softness and sponginess. So you can’t win on all counts. (And readers on budgets are always advised to not try - lest they end up with nothing that’s quite right). 

The trousers will be worn, but the jacket will be worn much more often. 

Finally, a word on the finishing. 

Mostly this is very good. The buttons are fine and neat, and there is nice top stitching around the linings inside (shown above). 

But there are a few things that could be improved. One is the swelled edge, which is nice on the outside but has long running stitches on the inside; this isn't so noticeable on this tweed, but is on the green cotton we subsequently made. 

Another is darts in the chest (under the lapel), which The Anthology use to add greater shape - but some tailors would say is not needed to achieve the effect. Same goes for the insert in the collar, shown below. 

There are also a couple of purely aesthetic things, some of which remind me of cheaper Hong Kong tailors - such as putting the selvedge of the cloth along the inside of the trouser turn-ups. 

But I realise this is very minor, and very subjective. 

Overall, I’m sure there are things that Buzz and the team will change in the future - whether it’s points of tailoring or of process. And the second, cotton suit we made showed they were improving the fit (though there was an issue there with the cotton, which I didn't realise had stretch in the mix.)

But I would repeat that this is a good suit, well fitted, a great style (for me) and excellent value.

I have no hesitation recommending it to someone who likes the style, and whose budget is around the £1,440 (ex-VAT) The Anthology currently charge as a starting price (with jackets from £1,050).

The Anthology are based in Hong Kong and Taipei but currently travelling to London, Tokyo and Singapore for trunk shows, roughly ever 3-4 months. They say they are planning to start travelling to Stockholm, New York and Paris in the future. 

The cloth of this suit is Holland & Sherry 8818029 (11oz), from the Sherry Tweed bunch.

With it I am wearing a PS Oxford shirt in pink (a trial piece) with a black-knitted tie and black-cordovan Belgravia loafers from Edward Green.

Buzz is wearing a jacket in Fox Somerset Jacketing, B2692/45, 12/13oz. And Holland and Sherry corduroy trousers, 187102, 9oz.

Photography: Milad Abedi @milad_abedi

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I’ve been waiting several months for this review and I’m glad it finally came through. Living in Australia, it’s hard to find the time to fly out to Italy and with The Anthology, I was very much hoping I can get an Italian silhouette. Reading your review, I now feel confident to visit them in Hong Kong. Thank you again, Simon.

BTW, have you any knowledge of C.Coccinella out of Osaka, Japan? They focus on the Florentine cut, too.

Jack Traven

g’day Vince,
yes! as an aussie living in the UK who has the luxury of all these visiting tailors I often worry about what I will do when I return home to Australia in a few years.
Having these guys and the like on our doorstep (Australia has a big doorstep) makes it a little easier.


Hi Jack. That makes me jealous. I really miss London. I hope you take full advantage of the local and traveling tailors that go there.


Beautiful cloth and very nice suit.

I’ve been reading PS for many years now and therefore can understand what you mean in a wider context.
However, other readers may walk away thinking this article is more critical than it really is .
For example , at this price point are some of the points you raise an issue ? On a £4000 plus Cifonelli they may be .
I think this is where , as in the Hifi world, reviews in reference to ‘reference’ pieces may help.
For example pound for pound how does this compare to a more perfect item in terms of fit , price , value etc.

On a second point I think what may help is photographs of some of point’s you make around the ‘failings’.
Otherwise the writing says one thing but the photographs show off (rightly) a beautifully, well fitted suit.


I can partly see where Robin is coming from. I think the words of the review do make clear this is positive. However, given the volume of commentary around weaknesses, the positive disposition feels tempered.

I’d also strongly agree with Robin that some photos of the weak points might have been helpful for my learning and understanding (noting that this would further temper the positive impression).


This is really impressive. Especially at that price. Though, and perhaps it’s the way you are leaning, I find the slightly elongated shoulders a little “too” elongated?

I would also, as it happens , love any advice on judging shoulder length/fit on a jacket. I find it somewhat hard to gauge due to stylistic preferences of individual makers.

Thanks also for managing to feature a piece a little more in my budget! Know that is not the purpose of PS per se, but it’s useful for a lot of us.


Thankyou Simon,
Just to rephrase – my point on budget simply alludes to the fact i have never seen PS as a “top 10 suits under £500 !” type magazine, but a site that celebrates tailoring and craft first and foremost, and factors price in as a relevant consideration, rather than a headline.

Paul Boileau

Interesting that they use a toile at this price point- not sure how they can make this work even using cheaper Chinese production. Must be very little profit on the first suit assuming subsequent suits do not have a toile. I often wonder of the dynamics of this cheaper bespoke: does it encourage people to try bespoke who otherwise wouldn’t or encourage those who currently spend more to save money or try something different at reduced price or a combination of these reasons? When do we reach saturation point?
Tweed trousers are generally a mistake: bagging; wear around the seat; rumpling etc etc. Been there done that. Save them for shooting when there’s little sitting down!


Assume you mean on a soft loose tweed rather than a hard tweed like a Harrisons Glenroyal?


Would you say that there is border line to much roping in the shoulder to wear the jacket with jeans?


I just wondered because you said “I’ve worn the jacket with jeans, and with a shirt and tie (as here). It works wonderfully”. Not sure of the contradiction?


Wondering how does this compare with your Prologue jacket…with the proviso that the Prologue isn’t exactly full bespoke. Any plans to try other HK tailors such as WW Chan (travels to London) or Dream Bespoke (no trunk shows)?


Hi Simon,

Is the cloth Harris tweed or Sherry tweed? I’m not certain that Sherry tweed is in fact “Harris” tweed, at least according the H&S bunch description.



Met the team in London during your pop-up, very nice chaps and have serious taste and style. Good to know you like their suit. I shall commission a piece from them if so. Will you also be doing a write-up about their lazyman jacket? I have one and I like it. Wishing them all the best.

R Abbott

Do you have any update regarding the Lazyman jacket? I’d love to see one in person, but that’s not practical. I’m athletic but 5.7 so the shorter length of the jacket is unlikely to be an issue for me.

It seems like it would be a very useful casual piece in the COVID or post-COVID world. For instance, I could easily see my self wearing the navy one over a shirt for a video call, or wearing it to the office on the rare occasion in which I do go in (right now, the office is empty, so office dress coat tends toward casual, although I still wouldn’t wear jeans). I could also see taking this on a family holiday if I want something to dress up slightly that travels easily / doesn’t wrinkle.

As an aside, how do you think the navy Lazyman compares with wearing a navy shawl cardigan? Both are casual alternatives to a sports coat. Perhaps the cardigan is slightly more casual? Is there any situation in which you would wear one and not the other?


R Abbott

How would you compare the Lazyman with the Armory blousons? Both of the Armoury ones have buttons and a collar (like the Lazyman) so share some resemblances with a sports cost without being a sports coat.

For instance, this navy cotton one:

And this sage one:
Leaving aside differences in fabric, would you use them under similar circumstances / for similar occasions?


any updates? I really like the idea but I’m struggling to justify the price for what it is..


Really? Even over Oxford shirt? After reading about “impression of cashmere” and smoother touch than tweed, that’s surprising. Sigh. Looks like anthology is joining the bandwagon of brands throwing around beautiful terms without actually meaning them.
Since I struggle to justify it costing almost 3x their shirt price, any insight on make? Is an unlined, unstructured… overshirt? really worth almost 3x more than a shirt?
im not arguing if it’s worth 625. I’m more arguing if a shirt is 230, why does overshirt (in terms of make) costs 600? It’s not like it’s 2x harder to make…


I just wanted to add a comment to this since I saw it when googling the Lazyman (which is a testament to your website’s prominence really). I recently ordered one in the grey herringbone and I actually find it very soft, not sure I’d say it’s cashmere-like exactly but at least as soft as most of my jumpers and e.g. nowhere near as scratchy as a shetland.

Perhaps we have different standards of softness or perhaps they’ve changed the material.

For future fellow googlers I’ll add that I took a 50 (usually wear 40R in jackets) which fits nicely for the more casual look I’m going for and the ordering process from the UK was very easy in the end.


thank you! how “boxy” is the fit? my biggest worry is very often only slim fit works on me and “boxier” fits looks just “off”. if I could try it in person I’d be more at ease but ordering from them and having to return, it’s annoying to have to reclaim vat.


Looks really good to me.
Personally I’d have had it with patch side pockets. It would have completed the louche look and made it even more wearable with jeans.
I also don’t agree that herringbone strides are difficult to wear. I think they are great and look particularly good with a shawl collar cardigan. The fact that they bag a little and don’thold their crease adds to their louchness.
One question from me – if one was restricted to London fittings, how long would it take from start to finish ?
Although it breaks with my made in the UK rule, I’m sorely tempted. What self respecting flaneur wouldn’t be at this price ?


I fully agree with you Simon on your assessment of the Antholgy. Ordered a jacket and really like it, but would have really preferred having a fitting in the final cloth, particularly if you are going for a very light/heavy cloth and the fitting is in a mid-weight this could influence the quality of the final result (I think). I also feel like even though I love having a jacket in this style I probably wouldn’t order an office suit with Anthology.

Also, wanted to highlight that even though I love the vast majority of stuff you do here on PS, it is reviews like these that make me a regular reader (on this note I am really looking forward to a review of Cornacchia). Are you by any chance planning anything with Kenjiro Suzuki or Corcos in the future btw?


Funny you would go with Suzuki. I’m not a big fan of his style, from the pictures I’ve seen, but looking forward to your review. Can you say when it will come?
Corcos, on the other hand, looks great, but similar in style to the Anthology or Prologue, don’t you think?


Kotaro travels to Paris and London twice a year. Pitti is also two times a year. Therefore it should be possible to get a suit within 12-18 months.


Corcos says he is not taking any new customers, so the value of a review for readers may be limited.

New York is well represented with traveling tailors. The one hole in the offering is a Florentine style at a price point well below Liveran’os. The first tailor to get to NYC with that style and price point will get a commission from me. I have been trying to coax Prologue to come, but with no luck, so maybe Anthology will be the one.


Your point on style and comfort really resonated. I keep coming back to my Anthology jackets because they just fit so well and comfortably.


I really like the look of this suit, in fact I’ve been considering a grey herringbone or Donegal suit myself. I have a couple of questions.
Firstly, the trousers look quite full in the upper parts, thigh to knee, is that correct? It puts me in mind of your observations about the cut of your trousers from Saman Amel. Would that be right?
Secondly, the price is comparable to that of W&S and SA. Based on this suit, how does Anthology compare with them?

Evan Everhart

I love this suit, Simon!

Thanks for sharing this! I also must add that I am pleased that yr finally pulling the trigger on a possible pink addition to yr PS line up of OCBDs! The color is quite perfect!

I am in fact wearing nearly an identical ensemble today with regards to the garments; save that my shirt while identical in color is one of Dad’s old pink Brooks OCBDs, as is my navy silk knit tie (Granddad’s), and my suit is olive green with marled goldenrod micro HBT tweed in a sack cut, but with no turn ups, and belt loops. My shoes however are English tan split toe moc bluchers worn with a tan teju lizard skin belt. I’ve also opted for a white linen pocket kerchief. Yr suit is quite smart, Sir! I’m sorely tempted to try them, but the darts would bother me….. Do they insist upon the darting?

Thanks again for all of the information, research, and enjoyment which yr posts bring!


Thanks for the review Simon. I appreciate you investing your resources in reviewing more affordable tailors.

To put the anthology in context, style notwithstanding, how would the finishing compare with similarly priced City tailors like Graham Browne and Macangus and Wainwright?

Regarding the sherry tweed, I have a jacket (different colour) made of it and I also felt it was soft and comfortable. Lighter and less hairy than a rougher tweed but less formal than something like flannel.

Nicolas Stromback

Hi Simon,

I am a bit confused on your desciption on what is a high rise trouser. Ever since I started commission suits and pants, it seems to me all of them are high rise compared to high street and off the rack brands. Would you share some light on this and again the pros and cons with either height?

Nicolas Stromback

Thank you! Looking forward for a post on that in the future then.


I love the roping on these shoulders, everything just looks soft, comfortable yet strong. The shape in the back is also lovely, even if it might not be a tight fit. The open fronts also look great; come to think of it, the whole silhouette is just wonderful. I think I see why you like this jacket so much.

Buddy Levy

Simon, what is the width at the cuff or bottom of trouser?


It seems really good. Curious to know what suits you consider “perfects” in your wardrobe.

Mitchell Moss

Absolutely love this cut. I’ve followed Anthology on Instagram for a while and it’s probably my favorite aesthetic of all the various contemporary makers. That they intend to start coming to the USA is very good news (hoping they’re able to in short order), especially given the price point. Suit looks absolutely fantastic, Simon.

Nigel C

Looking forward to the pink Oxford cloth. Colour and texture look really nice.
Best wishes.


Off topic. But, I seem to recall you were going to do an orazio luciano review. Is that still in the works?


This suit looks amazing and the value seems very good.


Based on the pictures alone, the proportions of this suit are fantastic. In this respect and with note to the absence of a profile shot here, this is a better piece than your Caraceni. The more open quarters make the primary difference.

How did it feel getting high-end tailoring in the midst of tear gas?


Nice Suit.

It’s interesting that you say you would wear the jacket with jeans (I think a very light wash could be quite good). I have noticed 1) that it is hard to wear a jacket with pants that are more colorful/saturated (one reason why grey, olive, and khaki pants are so useful), and 2) that it generally looks better when the trousers drape at least as well as the jacket (one reason why I think corduroy trousers are hard to wear with a non-corduroy jacket). Denim is more colorful and saturated than grey and drapes less well than tweed.

I have a grey herringbone tweed jacket (from Orazio) and find it hard to find pants that match with it aside from grey, khaki, and olive. I imagine cream would work, but I don’t think I could pull them off as well as you can Simon (I also worry about stains).

Also, it’s good to see more affordable things reviewed on this site. Hopefully, they start travelling to the US soon (and often enough to make things worthwhile).


Hi Simon,

Thanks for another invaluable piece. I think my work and personal style is largely suited to a jacket and separate trouser ‘uniform’ that you have written about previously. When commissioning work do you tend to find commissioning both jacket and trousers together as this works out more economical and provides more options to ‘mix and match’ (even if you envisage wearing the items separately)?


A good, versatile, addition to the wardrobe and clearly one that you like. The design and cloth choice will give longevity but seeing you next to Buzz I can’t help wondering whether you should be more adventurous in your colour choices. I understand why you pick a palette of restrained, muted tones (long term investment, discrimination of taste etc.) but I think it would enhance your wardrobe and bring a lighter, balanced (vs, the muted shades), younger and more casual style tone if some brighter colours were occasionally and thoughtfully embraced?


I can’t help wonder if this idea is rooted in fear of being different and an individual. If you anchor yourself to not wanting to stand out too much by definition you are trying to blend in to some extent with other men who these days usually dress terribly. The result is that the aesthetic is bland, proportions are pushed toward whatever is fashionable. What is fashionable today is unstructured, narrow and tight fitting tailoring which in my subjective opinion is unflattering for most men. Why not be more daring in your choices?


You mentioned about how grey herringbone works well because of its versatility. Do you think the material works well then if one were to try making a DB overcoat or jacket with it? Or would that look awkward because its leaning too far towards formal wear?


What’s the timeline for the pink Oxford, roughly? Wearing the blue one today and looking forward to adding. Thanks!


I just picked up a jacket from The Anthology and couldn’t be happier. Opinions on the style are subjective of course but I find the cut both flattering and comfortable. I also imagine it will be quite versatile.


off topic so apologies, but im so looking forward to more PS oxford colours. pale yellow next? pleeeease?


Have you ever used P.A Crowe? Are they supposed to be any good?


I asked the question about colour. I read Rups’ thoughts but, as I also live near London, I understand your thinking about not standing out and being part of what generally is a restrained palette etc. However having lived in other cities wherein more colour, or at least a more expressive form of dress was encountered I wonder whether, in part, it is a matter of location (London can be, in the main, a bit dreary). For example in your travels to Italy I’m sure you’ve seen a wider aesthetic in regards to colour. You’ve personalised an intellectual response but I can’t help wonder that if you were, say, based in Rome for a year or two whether the greys would disappear and the oeuvre would become a little more Italianate?


Hi Simon
Love the style of suit and I wouldn’t go for tweed I’d prefer a heavy flannel.
Want to start investing in bespoke but not got the budget for a Saville Row suit. Where would you suggest I start for a similar style of cut.


I thought Anthology was bespoke but Prologue refers to themselves as MTM?

Is there a material difference between what the two offer? I know a lot of tailors these days play on the definitions when, really, they are simply by-words for fit and quality.


Thanks Simon! Contacted Anthology and they’re coming over in January and will make a booking. Phil


Hi Simon
Had a appointment with Anthology at their recent trunk show in London and going for grey flannel as mentioned. Unfortunately couldn’t make Prologue trunk show last week.
On separate note have you come across Signature Bespoke in Liverpool and what’s your view on Anthony Sinclair these days?
Many Thanks


Hi Simon,

Really prowling PS today as I’m about to buy a few things – a coat and a couple of sports jackets – and am drawing some inspiration from your work, so do forgive the barrage of questions across comments sections.
How would you say Anglo-Italian compares across the board (style, fit, cut, value etc.) to the anthology? Absolutely love your anthology herringbone jacket and would have one made myself were it not for COVID-19. Been considering waiting for Saman Amel to come in september or rather pop down to Anglo Italian some-time this week to get a mid-grey herringbone made to measure. If I went in with your anthology jacket in mind, would I be disappointed with their result?

Best, once again,



I have, but not by way of comparison. Probably a good idea! Will have a look again.

Thanks again


Hi Simon

Just wanted to check in with you about my experience at Anglo Italian and ask you if it was in anyway consistent with your expectations/ own experience.

I popped in the other day to get a jacket made – using the same H&S cloth you used here – and all in all I left a little discombobulated. As my fitting was being taken, the guy doing it kept running back and forth to deal with RTW customers. He’d be measuring my back whilst leaning over his shoulder to talk with a customer about a pair of jeans. It wasn’t entirely reassuring. Also he didn’t measure my actual body but used a jacket and some pins to take measurements, jotting down the occasional dimension on a worksheet of sorts. I’m not sure if this is normal? It seems to lack precision and when I asked if he needed to measure my actual body, he said it was easier that way. I couldn’t help thinking easier for whom?

It was only after a discombobulating 1hr and a half that I left realizing that many of the questions I had had remained unanswered, as he would rush off to help a RTW customer decide between shirts or to take measurements for omeone else looking to get trousers fitted whilst I was stood with a pinned jacket on waiting for 10-15 mins at a time. I will definitely raise this with them but given the cost – this is the first time I’ve ventured into MTM – am aware of multiple places that would offer a far more personalized service with a greater focus on a clients individual needs. I chose the style they over but all other expectations were left unmet. Were my expectations unreasonable? I left realizing I didn’t even ask about button type, lining etc. and can’t help but feel the rushed atmosphere was in large part to blame and that these were choices the should have asked of me themselves, no?



Hi Simon

That makes sense. I can imagine they’d respond to you much like a restaurant owner might a well known food critic.
You’re right. Rather than run crying to Permanent Style, I’ll take my grievance to them directly. I justified it on the day with the notion that more personalised attention to detail would be on the day of the first fitting, but in hindsight it seemed rushed to the point of genuinely lacking professionalism and there were things that I wanted to include (dark brown tortoiseshell buttons for instance and full lining) that I didn’t really get an opportunity to bring up.
Do you think such buttons would be a nice touch or a horrible clash, by the way?
Anyway, I will call them early next week!
As ever, thanks a lot for your interest and advice – it is much appreciated.


Lovely write up. I’m very happy to read that Stockholm is in the future plants, as I’ve been politely nagging on Buzz and the guys from time to time to come over here.
I really like the overall look here and ironically, I do feel that this higher rise just looks better on you when when worn.
And on that subject, you mention that the trousers needs to be pulled up during the day, is this only with higher rise trousers for you?
I find no matter where my rise ends up, trousers hike down and need to be pulled up throughout the day, regardless of belt, adjusters etc. I find this with mtm and bespoke as well as with OTR denim.


Hi Simon,

May I ask why the stretch in the cotton fabric bothered you? Or was it simply because it wasn’t planned for?



Hi Simon,
Great style on this jacket indeed and it does look comfortable. Would this jacket be smart enough with charcoal flannels and a white oxford and tie for a law firm casual Friday?
Keep up the great work. Congratulations on the birth of your daughter and happy holidays to you and your family.


Hi Simon,

Really thanks for your honest review. I’ve booked my first appointment for their trunk show in London next month.
As for the fabric, I am planning for a brown cashmere suit, but a bit worrying about the durability of the suit, anything in particular you would suggest or recommend? I only know they’re mainly bringing Holland&Sherry collections.

Best regards,



Thanks for ur suggestions, and based on ur previous “mistake” , I would take the suggestion and go for flannel instead, and of course feel the fabric in person on the day to make my final decision.

Cheers again for the help and happy New Year!

Best regards,

Frank Shattuck

20 years ago there were several cashmeres worthy of a suit should a customer want one. Today, knowing first hand what cashmere used to be, not one is worthy of even a coat. Go with Fox Heritage Flannel. It is an extremely worthy flannel. The only flannel I work on.


Hi Frank,

Thanks for the informative comment. As I have looked into Fox Bro’s heritage collection, the hazel brown herringbone (code: FS479L-A2713/55) has just caught my eyes straight away, have you come across this particular flannel before?

Best regards,

Frank Shattuck

Yes, Zhen, I have. You cannot go wrong with Fox Heritage flannel. It’s has great integrity. I also highly recommend Fox Air 10oz for summer. It is a brick of a cloth.
Happy New Year



Oh it’s a nice one to look at too, since the tube in London it’s like an oven at peak times. God bless me in summer.

Thanks for the info and Happy New Year to you too!

Best regards,


Hi Simon,
Was there ever a review of your cotton suit from The Anthology? If not, it would be interesting to have your view on it.


Yes, it was more the cloth and how well you thought the Anthology style works with it. I guess that the rest of the review would be pretty similar unless you’d made significant changes between the two suits, which I didn’t get the impression that you had.


Dear Simon,
may I ask which buttons you chose? Are they unpolished dark grey/dark brown/black?
I have a similar grey tweed-jacket and want to replace the buttons.
Thank you!


How does the quality of bespoke by Anthology compare with Whitcomb and Shaftesbury? They both seem to be in the same price range.

Of course, looks like the styles are a bit different, which is another consideration.


In your recent article on a capsule collection of jackets you referenced this kind of grey as being highly versatile. I have been gifted a jacket in a similar shade to this, although a donegal, rather than a herringbone.

I’m curious to know what odd trouser colours have been most successful for you in combination with this jacket. The bulk of my odd trousers are mid grey, so won’t offer enough contrast. I have a pair in olive that go well, but beyond green, where do I go? I’m thinking dark browns and possibly charcoals, but am curious to know what works for you.


Hi Simon,
Would like to ask you now you opinion on the should style of this jacket, specially the little ropping on the shoulders , when styling it with more casual outfits, such as chinos and jeans. I feel that you normally would recommend a “no ropping” shoulder when this was the focus, is that right?
Besides it, would you comment on anything on the jacket that you would prefer to do differently in another commission?
(by the way, I absolutely love this jacket, as I may have mentioned in the past)
Cheers and wish you a nice weekend



What is the shoulder to shoulder measurement on this jacket? And what is the ‘average’ shoulder to shoulder measurements on your jackets? Asking because I’m going to have a jacket made and want to try making it with extended shoulders. I know it’s relative to body size, but it would be nice to get your input.



I actually just bought your tailoring book, so have the collar to sleevhead measurements readily available. It would be great if you could measure the Anthology jacket from shoulder to shoulder this weekend, if you get the chance, though.



When it comes to versatile tailoring, I think this suit is right up there with your Ettore de Cesare olive cord commission.

Like many readers I suspect, I love the idea of getting a semi-formal, ‘three-fer’ suit… one that works as a suit, but whose jacket goes with jeans, and whose trousers can work without the jacket.

Do you think this material could fit that bill? I’m particularly keen to get a mid-grey, autumn-winter suit whose constituent parts will get maximum wear.

The Sherry Tweed is softer and looser than ideal for a trouser… but how much does that really matter? After a year of wear, would you go so far as to say it doesn’t work? For all that an 18oz Thornproof would hold its shape better, I know which fabric I’d sooner wear in a warm London Underground carriage.

At present I’m weighing up Porter and Harding Thornproof 62263 (too flat?) or 62269 (too 1920s Hollywood??), vs the Sherry Tweed bunch you used here. If there is slightly a denser grey herringbone, I’d love to know of it!


Hey Simon- Such good stuff. Really enjoy these HK tailor reviews. Hear so much about them. Never tried one but it’s intriguing. Agree shoulder silhouette is kind of “louche”. A welcome break from your SR rope style. Does lack of a belly on the lapels allow for cost cutting? I suspect a straight finish requires less handiwork. What is selvedge cloth? Are you referring to the heel guard fabric strip? And Merry Christmas.


hi simon, I’m considering an anthology rtw jacket down the year ( but wanted to get your opinion if they can be dressed down with jeans/army chinos? To my eye the jacket looks pretty formal (rollino shoulders but clean with no shirring, lower gorge) say to something like the armoury/ring jackets…


Please look at the finish of the tweed suit trousers,
Bespoke tailor I don’t think so,


Hi Simon – would you wear this jacket with grey flannels or would it be too close in style without being the same? Thanks!


Thanks Simon


Hi Simon,
I was windering whether you get much wear out of the jacket by itself and also what colour of trousers you’d pick for this jacket and if you have any new ideas for trousers with the jacket you want to try out.
I am contemplating a similar jacket as an sports coat and wanted to ‘test’ your view on versatility. Thanks, Carl


That’s so good to hear, thanks for
Linking up the articles again and I am looking forward to seeing more of combinations with this particular jacket, which I like a lot; ever since seeing Robert Redford in three days of the condor

Leo Oettingen

Hi Simon – how would you compare fit and house style of Prologue vs The Anthology? Trying to decide between the two but cannot really spot any real differences based from the info they supply and from social media.

Leo Oettingen

Fair enough and the more tailors at this price point the merrier if cut and quality are good. Wish there was someone who did the same with Caraceni (Rome or either Milan one) as inspiration vs Liverano!


do you have a photo of the green cotton suit you had made with them?


I mentioned before but i live in korea and hard to travel to go naples of firenze for bespoke is anthology cost appopiriate for it’s garment and quality? I want to try it


Hi Simon,

this cloth is described as a light grey. I’ve got a few swatches from various sources, including the H&S version. Would a darker version, such as mid grey be more or less versatile? An easier question may be why did you steer towards the light grey herringbone rather than their mid grey?



Hi Simon, I was wondering whether your herringbone jacket’s cloth is light or mid-grey?

Many thanks,


I think they do describe it as light grey.


Although the old cloth seems to have been discontinued to be replaced by this one. It is hard to tell but they seem virtually the same. Maybe just the width of the herringbone is different?


Hi Simon,

With a grey herringbone jacket like this, do you prefer the looser, spongier 11 oz tweed or are there merits for going with a denser 14-15 oz tweed?


Hi Simon, I was wondering whether you would choose the patch pockets rather than the flaps pockets if you were commissioning a sports jacket with the same cloth?

Many thanks,


Could I ask for the reason? Is it because the cloth(herringbone) is a relatively formal material for the sports jacket?

Alan Johns

On the trousers, would you say they are perfectly fine as part of the suit, just best not to wear as separates? I note that elsewhere you imply tweed is not great for trousers.

Alan Johns

Thanks – I would like a grey herringbone suit. What material would you recommend?


wait… hopsack trousers? wouldn’t it need to be super heavy hopsack?

Alan Johns

Thank you. I’m rarely in a situation where a suit isn’t too formal, especially as I’m inclined to wear a tie with a suit, so ideally I’d be able to use the jacket as a separate.

It’s tricky with suits, you want them to look good when you have occasion to wear them but the opportunity seems so rare nowadays it’s a bit annoying to make a significant investment in one that can’t be repurposed.


Hi Simon

Brief question for you…

what do you think of he anthology’s civilman trousers in dark olive as a potential accompaniment to the grey herringbone jacket?


any opinion on steel grey and light grey polo of theirs? that’s the only polo/shirt with near 18 inch collar on 48″ chest so I just ordered a navy.

I love light grey knitwear but I’m not sure about smart polo like this…

and all I can do is kick myself for not checking closer when they had open door day whether steel grey was closer to charcoal or blueish grey ..


I meant more about colours. I handled them a bit. Cloth seemed quite interesting. Thick but at the same time really soft!

I saw years ago you were doing light grey polo, but since you stopped, it wasnt too popular?

And what about dark grey colour with some blue shade in it?

Since many people are asking, we need a thread of “Simons opinion about anthology ready to wear.”


The jacket is really nice. Is it half lined or fully lined?


Hi Simon, thank you for all your brilliant content over the years. I’m in the process of commissioning a grey herringbone jacket from Ciardi and am struggling to decide between a Loro Piana 100% wool fabric and a Standeven 95% wool, 5% cashmere fabric. The weights are near identical (310g vs 320g) and the colours are very similar to my untrained eyes. Do you think the small inclusion of cashmere will make a noticeable difference to the finished jacket and would you typically recommend 100% wool over such a blend? I thought I’d ask the expert rather than flip a coin to decide!


Thanks Simon, that’s the reply I was hoping for. I didn’t notice much difference in feel but think I’ll go for the LP wool.

Ian P

Hi Simon

How would you contrast the differences in style between Saman Amel, Solito and the Anthology?

Of the three is it Solito —> Saman —> Anthology in terms of most close-fit to most roomy/drape?

Are there any other differences in terms of the style that might suit different types of PS reader? Either in terms of body type (for example I’m very skinny/slim with pronounced broad shoulders and have struggled with many brands in different ways) or in terms of “style” (Ivy versus Italian Smooth or British country, etc), or “formality” (is one of them better for more formal fabric, would Anthology be as good as Saman at silk/cashmere?)

Ian P

Thanks Simon – I’m also surprised by the difference in price. It seems that the Anthology is about half Saman Amel. Is there a big gap in quality?

Ian P

Thanks – yes the difference was from quotes for SB jackets in the same material within the past round of trunk shows. Saman Amel was >£2500. Anthology more like £1600. That’s a substantial difference so I’m wondering if it’s clearly “worth it”


Hello simon i will be going taiean fot a holiday in feb next year and will likely visit anthology there to do up a db navy sportscoat which im hoping to go with a textured fabric for more casual bottoms. It will be my third sportscoat. The first and secomd being navy and dark brown checked single breasted ones by ring jacket. Do you think thr navy db will be a good option?


good point simon. To be honest I have never come near a DB (let alone tried one on) but seeing it look so good on guys like ethan wong (who wears the DB very casually with wide legged chinos and T-shirts) did give me some inspiration and confidence! But I do agree it is pretty individual and what may work for someone may not for others


Hi Simon, which colour trousers do you wear the most with the jacket? As the grey herringbone tweed cannot go with mid-grey flannel trousers, I am not sure what type of trousers would be the best option other than jeans or navy.
Many thanks,


Is it too simple to just think of this as the reverse of, say, a mid-grey pair of flannels? So if the grey trousers can go well with almost any colour of jacket bar grey, then this jacket can do the same with trousers?


Hi Simon
Thanks for the article, very nicely put !
Since the pricing point is similar, who do you think wins the quality (not style) match between a jacket The Anthology and Drake’s ?


Thanks a lot,
Woild you say that their style will work for a fairly standard multi purpose grey flannel ?
Trying to get an appointment for November in london 🙂


Thanks !
I am looking to make a versatile (casual+business) grey flannel suit. The easiest to physically access for me in the next weeks are The Anthology and JM Moreau.
Which would you say will meet the purpose the most ?


Thanks Simon !
I am french indeed but exiled in London for now:-).
In the end, I secured an appointment both with “The Anthology” and “WW Chan Tailor”. I really like the effect of that extended shoulder. From my tiny experience, I suspect it might work better with me.
Should I commission a bespoke suit with each, where would you say their style differ ?
In both cases I will probably ask for a rather soft shoulder.


Hi Simon. Have been following The Anthology for a while now and really like their style. However I’ve always thought of them as a more casual tailoring house, suitable more for odd jackets than suits. I’m looking into having a fairly safe, formal grey business suit made but wonder whether this style may be a little casual ? Would Anglo Italian have the same issues ? And so at this rough price point would Whitcomb and Shaftesbury Offshore perhaps be the best style to consider ?


Hi Simon, have you ever commissioned a summer jacket with The Anthology? Whether or not you have, would you personally leave out the roping? as I heard they offer two different options for the shoulder.

Many thanks,


Hi simon im a big fan of quality clothing and tailoring and keep to a small wardrobe of quality clothes from the usual suspects – drakes bryceland armoury and the likes. I have almost no need for jackets however as the country i live in is humid and very casual and one will almost stand out in.a bad way wtih a jacket unless youre going for a wedding. I have no suits but 3 armoury ring jacket sportscoats which i mostly wear on holidays overseas. With the opening of borders i will have the chance to go to the anthology to experience my first mtm/bespoke experience but ive been questioning if that is something i should do given i rarely wear jackets and the money could perhaps be spent on shoes which i may use more often. What do you think?


Hello Simon, I noticed that this jacket has flapped pockets: given that you tend to wear this as a separates jacket (not as a suit) would it have been better to have had patch pockets? Also, your newest green tweed jacket from The Anthology had jetted pockets, from what I can tell – is there a reason you went with those rather than patch pockets?

I am having a tweed jacket made for casual use and am planning to go for patch pockets as it is for casual wear. I was therefore wondering what your feelings are on the pockets of these two jackets, as I plan to wear them in the same context as you do.

Many thanks!


Thank you Simon, much appreciated. I presume the same could be said for shoulder roping for a cloth like this – it’s already casual so roping doesn’t make much difference to formality?


Simon, do you know any similar fabrics that can be worn all-year-round? I’ve seen some Neapolitan ready-made pure cashmere&silk grey herringbone blazers which were very lightweight, and good even for summer. But they were also a little shinier and smoother though. Perhaps there’s some middle ground , but I’m not sure…


You could consider the Sopra Visso bunch from Loro Piana (N689020) for light grey). It’s a touch lighter than the Sherry Tweed. But my favorite from that bunch is actually the dark green (N689023)!


Hi Simon. Between WW chan and The Anthology , who should I approach to make a sharp and elegant business suit ? Im keen to go for a blue herringbone fabric.

I read from your review that you find WW Chan to have a smarter looking house cut whereas The Anthology has a more casual house cut. That leads me to believe that perhaps I should approach WW chan to make me a business suit and The Anthology to make me a sports coat.

What are your thoughts ?


I meant sports jacket, not sports coat.


I have a tough time deciding if I should go for Prologue or the Anthology. Is the differences negligible? Any important aspects to consider?


Hi Simon, do you think you would keep the rope on the shoulders if you were to commission linen cloth in a fairly casual colour/pattern?

Many thanks,


I see, if you were to wear it wear jeans or Italian linen, would you reduce the rope or consider removing it completely?


Thanks, Simon.


Hi Simon! Are you still happy with the cloth choice for the jacket? I saw you on instagram you having a mid grey herringbone jacket (double breasted) from Assisi Bespoke from a very similar type of cloth.
I’m going to order a casual jacket like this and I was wondering if I should look to a different bunch or stick with the Holland & Sherry, which looks lovely by the way.


Hello Simon,
Would you wear this jacket with mid-grey flannels? How about charcoal ones?
Many thanks.


Understood. Thanks for the advice.


Hi simon do you think anthology is good choice at this cost? I am seArching for reasonable bespoke house , and i dot live that far from hong kong


Thank you! Did you also satisfied with trousers??


Nice i want to try,thank you for sharing good tailor house

Jack Sullivan

It would be very interesting to see how The Anthology’s RTW offerings compare. I’m sure they aren’t to the level of their bespoke product, but there is very little in the way of images of folks wearing them as opposed to the bespoke offerings. It does seem to be competitively priced, but still a bit of a gamble for those of us who can’t make it to a trunk show.


Hi Simon,

Did you go full canvas, full lining with this one? I often noticed some Italian tailors tend to like half lined for sports coats, do you know why?

Ben R

Is the cloth a Sherry Tweed or Harris Tweed? In this article it is stated Sherry. but in the “if You Only Had Five Jaclets” it article it was stated Harris Tweed. If you were commissioning a jacket today, for autumn/winter, would you prefer/recommend Sherry or Harris? Or do something like a wool/cashmere blend from Loro Piana? Looking for a smarter grey option after navy hopsack and PS Harris Tweed, also have a black cashmere jacket for evenings. Doing an English make.


Hey Simon,

I hope you are doing fine! I would like to get your opinion on the RTW Tailoring pieces of The Anthology. The Cotton/Linen suit from the core collection really catched my eye and I really like the style and fit of the Anthology.
I get most of my garments made by a local Tailor in Munich you also made a review about. The Anthology stuff is almost the same price, I have to pay taxes and fees and have the risk that it doesn’t fit properly.
I was wondering if it’s worth it because I like that style or should I just go with a MTM by my tailor?
What would you think? I really appreciate your help and opinion!

Thank you so much! Keep up the good work, love what you do!
Greetings from Germany


Great thank you! Allow me one last question regarding the size. These are the measurements of jacket that fits me very well. Unusually I have a 50, but on the size chart of the anthology it would be an 48 (would be strange for me to buy an 48..) however the look of it looks more „boxy“ so would you size up here to a 50 or stick to the measurements? Thx!

My Jacket:
Shoulders: 46 cm
Chest 52 cm
Sleeve: 62/63 cm
Total length: 77 cm

Measurements of the Anthology jacket shown on the pic below.

Thank you!


For anyone debating whether to go with Anthology, I’ve just picked up a second jacket from them and couldn’t recommend them highly enough. Amazing team, really good advice given and a good eye for the types of things I’d like. Their advice definitely helps, even when I’d given a lot of thought on how I wanted to steadily build up a wardrobe. Also, the fit of the second jacket has definitely been an improvement on the first, and the first was fantastic.

N. M

Thanks for the write up. Would you say the fabric is similar to Shetland in terms of density and sponginess or more like lambawool merino? Can’t decide by looking at pics?


Do you have a preference in fabric between the grey herringbone swatches 2, 4 or 9 in the Moon Lambswool Herringbone ( The idea would be to create a casual evening jacket taking inspiration from the one you made here, perhaps with patch pockets, two button SB and a concave lapel. Ideally, I don’t want it to be too dark so that it can go with a broader range of trousers and jeans.
Cheers 🙂