I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tailor. But that might just be my inexperience. I’m still a beginner, folks.

The chest and shoulder are both very lightly padded, and the shoulder itself slopes off naturally without any roll – though of course not being a spalla camicia or shirt sleeve, as preferred in Naples. This effect is exaggerated by the material, which was of course entirely my choice. It is a cashmere/wool mix from a Cacciopoli bunch in a fairly chunky weave and is certainly intended for a blazer, rather than a full suit.


But the overall effect is an incredibly comfortable suit, something that feels more comfy than any cotton tracksuit you care to mention. The trousers are unlikely to hold a crease, but I audibly sigh and relax as I put it on.

The suit is therefore certainly not sharp or stylised. It has mid-size lapels and relatively closed quarters – not much cutaway at the bottom. The trousers are typical of the region, being cuffed and relatively short, though not that narrow. A Vergallo suit wouldn’t normally come with strap-and-buckle adjustors, but I requested them. My only criticism of the suit, in fact, is that the adjustors Gianni sourced could be better – but that can easily be changed.


The work throughout is top notch and the fit very good, as hopefully comes across. It exhibits the little touches that Gianni takes pride in, such as the darts in the forepart ending at the pocket, making the bottom a single piece. And the patch pockets have that lovely curved shape that clearly sets it apart from English tailoring.

A lovely, well-made and great-value suit.

Sartoria Vergallo is based in Varese, but visits London every month. His suits start at €1800. For more background, see post here.

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marcusliang

awesome looking piece of work!! wish i had the cash pardon me.. but when u say ‘the pants is unable to hold a crease and therefore the suit isn’t sharp’, dont most pants crease up a little somehow.. i thought only stuff with polyester dont crease up.. just curious. sorry if i got anything wrong! 🙂 thanks! 🙂

Anonymous

Hi Simons,
This seems to be a lovely suit indeed. Now, I must confess that I am more and more amazed by the variety of styles, fabrics actually used by even the most obscure fashion retailer in Italy on one side, and the uniformity in these respects in, say, London, on the other side. To witness the same level of variety displayed by Italians in the UK, one needs to go to bespoke, or … to retailers of Italian fashion. Why is it so? I am truly flabbergasted!
Do you happen to have any explanations?
John

Anonymous

This is a very nice jacket cut. I prefer this version of a soft shoulder displaying a more architectural edge (if one might say) compared to the Rubinacci style – at least for suits compared to a sports jacket. It looks like the jacket does not have a side panel between the front and back – is this correct? Therefore, the dart shown near the rear of the patch pocket suggests the front-part of the jacket is made from one piece? Is this correct? From what you have seen do most Italian tailors do not have side panels between the front part and back?

Tim

Forgive me if I’m simply missing something here but I can’t understand what I see: the breast pocket in the first image is on your right, then it switches to the left in the second image. A photo through a mirror?

Christophe Debon

Simon,
To be honest I find this suit a little bit dull and boring. Not too fan of these square patch pockets. There is something unbalanced (for me !).

Roger v.d. Velde

It even looks comfortable from here! Everyone needs at least one suit like this, perhaps it’s the sort of suit to make even the most suit-resistant take to wearing suits.

I can’t see any problem with the trousers holding a crease, there is enough wool (presumably) in the mix and even cashmere isn’t resistant to the iron and back of brush to put in a decent crease.

Christophe Debon

Simon : certainly ! you know these things better than me !

John

“But that might just be my inexperience. I’m still a beginner, folks.”
(Charmingly disingenuous, Simon!)

You do have a way of pursuing best of the best; whilst daring to explore creative possibilities –still managing to remain unpretentious.

Your suit comes off as a great knock-about suit. (Intended in a good way.) Luxe informal. Something to be dressed down. Maybe brown suede slip-ons, polo neck sweater?

Unknown

looks like a good amour, very nice suit with good price for an excellent Italian product

I followed up your Browne experience and got a DB made, can’t wait for the first forward fitting

Anonymous

The vents don’t look to be sitting wll over your rear. Perhaps a bit more cloth is needed acrsoss the small of your back?

Anonymous

Simon,
Would You try to explain and comment, pictures welcomed, about the different jackets and/or suits You have bought from the likes of Thom Sweeney and Graham Browne to this one from Sartoria Vergallo. I would really appreciate to read about Your opinions and comparisions about cut, fit and style. Last but not least I would ask You to also put in some comments about the price/quality ratio.
Still learning

London Chap

HI Simon

I just had my first suit made by Satoria Vergallo. Gianni and Luca were absolutely charming and the finished suit is lovely. A close but elegant fit with a relaxed drape and soft shoulders. Excellent value too. Recommended.

Best wishes, LC

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Love the suit. May I ask who your tie and pocket hank are made by? I really like the whole outfit and you have a way with matching ties/suits/shirts that I like very much.

Anonymous

Hi Simon- it’s a fantastic suit, i’m considering having one like this made, as in this sort of fabric it can be used as seperate pieces- what would be a similar bunch from Scabal or LP? My tailor won’t have access to Cacciopoli.

Thanks Alex

Tony

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the great blog. Yours is easily the favourite blog I read from time to time. Full of passion and knowledge and great taste in your articles and the photos.

May I ask what tie you wearing in the photo? I’ve been trying to find something similar for some time.

Many thanks.
T

Tony

Oh. Just saw you already commented on the tie maker. Thanks.

Anonymous

Hi Simon

I’m having a suit made by Vergallo. I’ve had a fitting and on the trousers I noticed that he had two darts on the front. Do you have these darts on your trousers? I’ve never seen this before. I believe he referred to them as closed pleats. Quite unusual.

Stuart

Dear Simon,

Can you recall if Sartoria Vergallo charged a lot more for the cashmere cloth? I have just phoned Whitcomb and S and they quoted £2,500 (nearly double the price!) for a cashmere jacket.

Thank you very much,

Stuart

Andreas

Dear Simon
I cant stress out enough how invaluable your blog has been for me. As a college graduant I started my work life a year ago and therefore had to upgrade my entire wardrobe to a more formal level. Now I am thinking about going bespoke. As I am located in Zurich, Varese is not too far away and Sartoria Vergallo seems a very good place to start. But as my funds are limited I always wondered if you pay for the comission of a suit in advance or upon receival of the finished garment. Also do you know any bespoke taylors in Zurich?
Keep up the good work!
Andreas

CMW

Hi Simon. What does a close fit mean? That the jacket and trousers are more fitted? I don’t want to say slim fit.

Anonymous

If I remember correctly, you (or someone else) said that Vergallo can tailor anything from semi-structured to very soft like the Neapolitans. Where does your suit belong in this range?

Is the classic milanese style semi-structured?

Could you name some well-known tailors whose house style is semi-structured? Maybe Liverano? Caraceni? The French?

Thank you and sorry for the many questions.

Anonymous

Ist seems like Vergallo is similar to Musella Dembech and Roman tailors regarding structure?

How would you describe your green linen suit from Gieves & Hawkes and your Anderson & Sheppard suits in terms of structure? Are they similar to Vergallo, semi-structured or still more structered than any Italian?

Anonymous

I‘ve read nearly all on permanent style and I know it‘s not possible to compare suits by just one dimension. Actually, I was just interested in the different weights used for the chest and how they differentiate between the big regional styles on general (Milanese, Neapolitan, French, Roman, structured English, lighter English like A&S, G&H) and which ones are similar, especially how northern Italians compare to lighter English like A&S and the lighter weights used by G&H.

And I have to say I really enjoy permanent style and it’s the best website about menswear worldwide.

Anonymous

You haven’t fully answered my last question about the lighter English canvas vs the northern Italians?

Anonymous

Is the cut of the suit comparable to your herringone suit from Caraceni?