Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while everyday suits and jackets are ma...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while e...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches.  First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story.  Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine,...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

February 18th 2015

My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

  My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Her...

Accessories - BagsFebruary 18th 2015

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bes...

January 7th 2015

Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to say that this is a defic...

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bes...

   Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also ...

Accessories - Casual wearJanuary 7th 2015

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

September 5th 2014

A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two. The central pro...

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

  A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine t...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 5th 2014

Loden top coat from Vergallo

January 23rd 2014

At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and a silk houndstooth jacket. The aim of the coat...

Loden top coat from Vergallo

At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and a silk houndstooth j...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 23rd 2014

Green is the third colour

November 25th 2013

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. The c...

Green is the third colour

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or ch...

Casual wear - StyleNovember 25th 2013

Sartoria Vergallo houndstooth blazer

May 6th 2013

Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last year. I wanted, primarily, to giv...

Sartoria Vergallo houndstooth blazer

Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last yea...

TailorsMay 6th 2013

Reader question: Cashmere suits

April 22nd 2013

Dear Simon, Hello and congratulations on your blog’s recent milestone! I have a question regarding cashmere suits. I am thinking of buying a suit that is 100% cashmere. Now I have come across many suits that are wool/cashmere blends, but...

Reader question: Cashmere suits

  Dear Simon, Hello and congratulations on your blog’s recent milestone! I have a question regarding cashmere suits. I am thinking of buying a suit that is 100% cashmere.  Now I have come across many suits that a...

Cloth - Reader questionsApril 22nd 2013

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

December 14th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource. You can see that full list of Tailors I Have Known her...

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource.  You can see that full ...

TailorsDecember 14th 2012

Pettegola shirts

July 16th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 329 1879 Euromoney PLC 15 3 2307 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo was talking to me recently about an old-fashioned style of shirt he makes for a couple of customers – the &l...

Pettegola shirts

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 329 1879 Euromoney PLC 15 3 2307 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo was talking to me recently about an old-fashioned style of shirt he makes for a coup...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJuly 16th 2012

Henri Urban pockets, Sartoria Vergallo

March 30th 2012

These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, particularly the embroidered initials. I photo...

Henri Urban pockets, Sartoria Vergallo

These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, particularly the...

TailoringMarch 30th 2012

Sartoria Vergallo, final suit

March 21st 2012

I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tai...

Sartoria Vergallo, final suit

I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected f...

Suits - TailoringMarch 21st 2012

Sartoria Vergallo, second fitting

December 26th 2011

Some pictures here of the second fitting of a navy suit from Sartoria Vergallo, in a wool/cashmere mix. Feeling much better now – as they say, the first fitting is for the tailor and the second is for you. I can feel the shape of the jacket, wh...

Sartoria Vergallo, second fitting

Some pictures here of the second fitting of a navy suit from Sartoria Vergallo, in a wool/cashmere mix. Feeling much better now – as they say, the first fitting is for the tailor and the second is for you. I can feel t...

TailorsDecember 26th 2011

Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese

December 12th 2011

There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price. While in Italy a couple o...

Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese

There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and pr...

TailorsDecember 12th 2011