Pink PS Oxford shirts available

Monday, August 10th 2020
Share
||- Begin Content -||

What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue, striped and white versions. 

So this time I thought it might be good to focus on what customers say - as a way to launch this new, pink iteration (cloth and shirts). 

I recently emailed a few hundred customers, as part of a process seeking feedback. It was the second half of a plan that began with last year’s readership survey. Unsurprisingly, a lot of them had strong opinions, and welcomed an opportunity to share them.

Here's what they had to say about the oxfords.

OZ: “I've bought your Oxford fabrics for shirts and I enjoy them very much - the pink one is currently being made by Luca in Naples. The fabric quality and feel is a lot better than any other Oxford I have had (rtw, mtm or bespoke).”

NM: “The PS product I've enjoyed the most is the Oxford shirting. I must have washed the light blue one (the first one I got) more than fifty times and it's become ever softer, while still holding its strength. The weight also means it wrinkles less. The texture and colours are understated, yet they’re interesting enough that others have praised them.” 

AL: “I have the Oxford cloth (striped and blue): it's very versatile so I can wear it in formal, semi-formal and casual occasions. They’re not too hard, as oxfords usually are (and therefore more comfortable) and are rough enough for casual matching,”

RGA: “I love the texture of the cloth, how it drapes - and perhaps at a more emotional level it is a cloth/shirt that I think will last for years and fray in a beautiful way, contrary to how my very expensive [business shirts] just get destroyed.”

MH: “Favourite piece: my light blue Oxford cloth OCBD shirt. Always a pleasure to wear. Gets softer each time I do.”

NF: “The cut and style are EXACTLY what I was looking for, but unable to find for a long time. I have many custom-made shirts which are wonderful for wearing a suit, but my day-to-day wardrobe has dramatically changed over the years. My "uniform" now is a sport coat, smart denim or slacks, casual shoes (chukkas, chelsea boot, etc.) and one of your shirts (the oxford or everyday denim). They just perfectly do the job where my custom finer cloth shirts would not.”

Nice, right? I was particularly pleased that people picked up on the things I really wanted from the cloth - something versatile enough for work and weekend, and which got better and better with age. 

There were a few people who didn’t like it too. Primarily because of the weight, as it is heavier than most dress shirtings. I wear mine 10 months of the year in the UK, but in a tropical climate that might be reduced to less than half the year.  

And the fit of all the shirts is a little slim, which won’t work for everyone. Unfortunately we can’t afford to do multiple fits, but there is of course the cloth to send to a shirtmaker, for a more personal fit. 

Today’s article is intended to let everyone know the pink PS oxford is finally available. It’s been on the site for a while as a cloth, but we received the finished shirts from Naples this week as well. 

I’ve always worn a lot of pink shirts, and I think the reason is that they have both formal and informal associations. 

On the one hand, pink is quite a corporate colour: a common sight with a grey or navy suit, and probably the most common colour after blue and white. 

On the other, it is a colour, and has Ivy associations that make me picture it with an olive shetland sweater and khakis. 

The PS pink oxford feels especially Ivy-appropriate because of the slubbier white yarn used in the weave, which gives it that irregular and washed-out feel. 

As a result, I wear my pink oxford with a navy jacket and grey flannels, but also with jeans, as shown here. 

It’s lovely against the grey herringbone of my Anthology tweed jacket, and with the faded blue of my old Levi’s (above). 

And a navy knit, like the geelong from Harley below, is just as nice as a navy blazer would be. 

I also find that while brown-suede shoes are the safe choice, black loafers also work nicely - especially with grey trousers or a grey suit. 

Below are two selfies from the Lockdown Looks post, the right of which shows a very similar outfit to the one above, but with black ‘Luna’ slippers from Baudoin & Lange. 

The left-hand photo also shows that burgundy cordovan (here, Alden full-strap loafers) is nice with the pink and darker denim. Plus that green shetland. 

The pink oxfords are made with the same rolling collar as the other PS shirts, the same body fit, and the same quality - in Naples, with hand-sewn sleeves, collar, buttons and buttonholes. 

If anyone is unfamiliar with the PS Oxford cloth in general, here is a brief summary: 

  • The PS Oxford project was born out of a frustration with the lack of robust, authentic oxford cloths available for bespoke. 
  • The bespoke shirting market still focuses on dress shirts, and this natural-feeling cloth isn’t available. So we worked with Italian mill Canclini to make one. 
  • We wanted: heavier weight and thicker yarn, to make it more comfortable and soften with age; and a subtle variation in the blue/white yarns that leads to that nubby, natural appearance.
  • The texture comes from using a short-staple cotton, so the weft of our PS Oxford is single-ply 10-count.
  • But in the warp we used two fine yarns (both of them two-ply 90-count), instead of another single ply. 
  • This keeps the thickness and character, but also avoids some of the downsides of short-staple cotton, such as pilling.

For everyone else, if you're interested, the shirts are available on the PS Shop site here. Looking forward to hearing what all those existing customers think of the new colour.

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
57 Comments
Oldest
Newest
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Anonymous

Simon
What size in the RTW would you take (I am pretty much exactly same size as you I think, c. 6.1 and a size 40 (ish) chest)

John

Perfect! Two questions Simon, if i may:

1) Perhaps an unfair question, but which of the PS Oxfords would you say is the most versatile? I am in the fortunate position of building a wardrobe from scratch and am trying to buy some quality essentials.

2) I seem to recall that you take a Medium? I have a 39 inch chest – same as you, i believe – and typically take the same size as you. However, i see that the Medium has a 108 cm chest, which i think would be too big for me. However, you say that there is some shrinkage from washing. Therefore, do you find the Medium fits you well, post wash? There is a large difference in measurements between sizing, and it would be great in the future if you could offer a few additional sizes.

Thanks!

Anonymous

Many thanks for such clear answers, Simon.

John

Just a quick follow up. The shirt arrived today and i am extremely happy with it. It is currently a touch too large around the waist, but this should be fine after a few washes/wears. This will certainly be a go-to shirt for years to come. Next purchase will be the blue striped version!

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Slightly off topic but what’s the cloth on the grey herringbone jacket in the first picture? hoe versatile do you find it?

Max

Hi Simon,
love the jacket. In the article you are referring to, you are wearing black loafers with the tweed suit. Makes sense as the grey color is basically a result of the alternating black & white from the herringbone. Do you also wear brown shoes with the jacket+jeans and the suit?
Asking cause I almost never wear black shoes with jeans.
Thanks!

Anonymous

Simon
I can’t find – but have you ever written about crepe soled shoes? Would a paid be good for winter commuting walks to work (c. 1hr?)

anonymous

Hello – I recommend avoiding crepe soled shoes in Winter …the sole will wear out with use and become extremely slippery in wet/icy conditions….and consequently dangerous. I learned this the very painful way.

Peter K

I have a pink oxford shirt already and love it but it is showing its age.

The PS pink oxford is lovely Simon, exactly the right shade. I may have to see if my wallet can stretch far enough for one when the time comes to replace my current shirt.

Peter K

Fraying, which I also enjoy.

Jason

The Anthology suit jacket looks to be very versatile.
Would it have been better with patch side pockets ?

Robin

Would be interested to learn how you arrive at Small, Medium , Large Etc size measurements .
I.e. where does this standard derive from and how much do you tinker with the standard to customise to a PS size .

I often hear MTM people talk about being able to do a lot with the ‘block’ to ensure a better fit then RTW but would be interested to learn the actual mechanics .
This world certainly help clarify why And how you get better with MTM over RTW.
Maybe a future video ?

Elliott

Hi Simon,

Any idea when you will start offering the chambray fabric?

I have the ps oxford cloth. Lovely pieces!

DB

Simon — Would you ever consider doing a run of your oxford fabric in a solid cream (i.e., the same as the background in the blue stripe)? I think I recall seeing in the comments of an old post that you had considered cream along the way before going with the white oxford. I’m sure that was the right way to prioritize — I’ve just has a shirt made in the white oxford, and I’ve found it to be, as advertised, a very useful way to combine a smart color with more casual texture. But I think a solid cream could be great as well.

Manuel

Also a lover of the PS oxford cloth, eagerly awaiting the pink and the striped shirts that are currently made by Simone Abbarchi.
May I also suggest another colour? I always found a toned down, muted purple very versatile.

Best regards,
Manuel

David Booth

You will forgive me for saying it, but l find the concept of a fused collar on a button down shirt difficult to grasp.

The tradition is for a collar such as this the be unlined; just two pieces of cotton sewn together. Correct tie space and button placement lead to a gentle bowing out around the tie (if being worn), with the points collapsing down onto the body of the shirt just above the buttons.

Even a collar which is lined, but unfused, will be a compromise on this. Once fused, it ceases to be true to its origins.

David Booth

Then we must agree to differ Simon. Worth noting that Drakes, probably the most recognised maker of OCBDs in the UK, continue that very American tradition.

David Booth

Thanks. Which other British shirt makers that favour fusing their collars would you highlight?

David Booth

Thanks. I have Drakes shirts which are unfused but have interlining. Do I conclude from this that fusing is something the Italian shirt maker you use favours, if it is clearly not something the Brits do?

H

What maker would you most recommend for bespoke or made to measure shirts in the original Brooks Brothers style (ie with an unlined collar).

I adore the Drake’s button downs shirts (I have 5 of them) – and while I appreciate the collar you’ve worked on with Luca Avitabile – I’d love to have something similar made bespoke (preferably in PS oxford shirting).

Daniel

Dear Simon,
Is there any way to apply lower (currently 16%) German VAT rate for orders shipped to Germany?

Daniel

I am not sure how it works, but the Rake or Amazon change they VAT rate depending on the customer’s country.

Mr CCH Tolley

If a company sells a lot of goods to private customers, i.e. non “taxable persons” in VAT speak, who live in a particular EU Member State then the supplier may be required to register for VAT in the “destination” country under the VAT “distance selling” rules. That can mean a supplier might be registered for VAT, or not, in various Member States depending on their sales to private customers in those countries. It sounds like some of these suppliers are registered in various countries, but others aren’t, and that’ll be based on their sales values to private customers in each country. So the general rule is that goods are taxed where the supplier belongs, but the distance selling rules can change that answer.

As it’s the supplier’s responsibility to get it right I’d be minded to go with what the websites tell you, and let them deal with the tax authority if it’s wrong.

Mr CCH Tolley

Broadly yes, although the distance selling thresholds are set separately to the general registration thresholds (the latter are often nil for “overseas” suppliers not making distance sales). The last time I looked the DS thresholds were generally €35,000 (although could be €100,000 in some countries, including sales into the uk).

Rejoice at the fact that I spend my days worrying about things like this, so that normal folk don’t have to!

CMW

Hi Simon, nice shirt. I have ordered the PS Oxford cloths in white and blue, and also both everyday denims. I’m looking forward to receiving them. Would you consider an off-white/cream color and a light grey color for future PS Oxford cloths?

RT

I’d like to add my voice to requests for cream, though for me, a cold version. I’m not a fan of yellow at all, including yellowish creams. I’d also be interested in grey. A grey and white stripe would be good too.

H

As a next colour, might I recommend a red and white ticking stripe or even a different take on a blue and white? I get that a few people are requesting yellows and purples, but I do worry on your behalf that there may be a much lower demand in reality for these more unusual colours!

Christian

I just realised that the shirt sold out while my tailor was on holiday… Any chance of a restock some time soon? A shame I missed it, it looks absolutely beautiful!

Jun

Wanted to add in response to the potential yellow oxford cloth, despite unusual and less demanded for, is something I have long wished to be made into a happy weekend shirt for that particular mood where blue, white or pink isn’t happy enough.

Occasionally come across that right shade of yellow plain or striped shirting but only available in a poplin weave, hence less suitable to wear with jeans.

Anonymous

Simon, do you expect to have a restock of these and/or the pink oxford shirts in size XL this year? If yes, would you kindly provide an estimate as to when? Thanks.

Alexander

1) Dear Simon! You said before that the collar height on the RTW shirts is 4.2cm. Is this just measuring the collar band itself? That means some extra height from the fold of the cloth?
2) Does anybody know the current bespoke prices from Luca Avitabile when the customer is providing the (PS-) cloth?
Thanks, Kind regards, Alex