The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

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If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual (from Casatlantic) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair. 

Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubato - just more on the workwear end of the spectrum. 

These are the Joe McCoy chino trousers from Japanese brand The Real McCoy’s. 

As regular readers will know, I’m a big fan of The Real McCoy’s because they generally have the same aim as I’ve always had with tailoring: the highest quality, with pretty subtle, classic style. 

Although they are essentially a repro brand - faithfully reproducing American clothing from the 1940s and 50s - the pieces they reproduce are mostly quite understated and wearable. 

They aren’t cheap. That focus on quality and precise reproduction means they have to order very small runs of material and hardware, often getting a mill to produce something entirely new. These chinos are £265.

I don’t really care whether the reproduction is precise or not, but I do care deeply about quality. And I’m usually prepared to pay a little more if those two have to come together. 

So what makes these chinos so useful, so everyday? 

The first is the colour. This pale beige is a standard American military shade, but it’s also an civilian classic. It's the one you wore from Gap when you were a kid, or perhaps from Ralph Lauren when you were a little older. 

It goes with everything: navy and black, brown and green, cold and warm. The only possible exception is mid- to light grey tops, like a grey sweatshirt. But even then it can work if there’s some contrast elsewhere, like a white T-shirt or a dark belt. 

When I was a teenager, and wearing baggy versions of these from Gap, I’d have a black, long-sleeved Pearl Jam T-shirt on top. (I still wear an old favourite now and again, though usually for housepainting or similar.) 

Today, my favourite accompaniments are a white-oxford button-down shirt, or a blue sweatshirt like the one from Merz b Schwanen (via Trunk) shown here. That’s a size 5, worn with an old blue cotton bandana. 

The other thing that makes the McCoy chinos so everyday is the cut.

These are not original military wide-legged or high-rise chinos. They have a hem measurement of 20.5cm and 29.5cm at the thigh (in this, a size 32). They are slim, though not skinny. 

Compare that to the more common shape of classic menswear chinos, like the Armoury Army style, which has a hem of 23.5cm and a thigh measurement of 31cm. 

McCoy’s does do a wider-leg chino too, the US Army 41. But this Joe McCoy pair is specifically inspired by the ones Steve McQueen used to wear. Often with a sweatshirt, and most famously in The Great Escape

Interestingly, The Real McCoy’s doesn’t have the licence to use the McQueen name, but another Japanese company called Toys McCoy does. The two used to be part of the same outfit, along with Freewheelers, but the three split into different labels years ago. 

Son of a Stag in London stocks Toys McCoy and I have tried their official version, but prefer this pair. 

The rise on these chinos is also quite mainstream: I measure the front rise as 28cm inches, although the size guide says they should be 29. They did lose at least a centimetre from the original raw state, as the guide predicted. 

That’s definitely a mid-rise, and lower than more Army-inspired pairs. It’s the same as the Rubato pair covered previously, though those are a little higher at the back. 

The biggest difference from that Rubato pair and any mainstream chino is the weight and strength of the cloth. It is dense and tough. More so than any other chino I’ve worn or covered. 

It’s still nothing compared to heavy denims, like my 21oz pair from Blackhorse Lane. And it has softened nicely after a few washes. But it's that toughness that makes it feel like a workwear chino.

One thing we haven’t talked about in our coverage of chinos is whether the material is a left or a right-hand twill. 

In general, most dress trousers are a right-hand twill and most mainstream, casual chinos are a left-hand twill. You can spot it from the direction the twill of the cloth runs down the trousers (top right to bottom left, or top left to bottom right).

What’s the difference? Well, in general a right-hand twill tends to be denser and sharper, while a left-hand twill is more open and softer. 

The reason is that the yarn gets twisted in a different direction as it’s woven - often referred to as an ‘S’ or a ‘Z’ twill, illustrating the direction as a letter. A left-hand or S twill gets twisted more in the weave, and so produces a harder and smoother material. 

Below: Real McCoys on the left, with a right-hand twill; Incotex on the right with a left-hand.

As I said, dress cottons are right-hand, and so are chinos we’ve covered before like the Rubato pair, the original Armoury Army chinos, and this Real McCoy’s pair. 

By contrast, the newer Armoury Army chinos are left-hand weave, as are mainstream chinos like Incotex.

When The Real McCoy’s calls its cotton a ‘West Point’ cloth, this is what it’s referring to. Army officers - from West Point military academy - tended to have smarter chinos, with a right-hand twill. 

Neither is necessarily better, and as with all cloth, it's only one factor alongside weight, fibre, finish and so on.

In general left-hand tends to feel softer, but there’s also a particular softness about a dense cloth like right-hand cotton which has been worn and washed a lot. Right-hand also tends to look a little shiny before it’s washed a couple of times. 

Elsewhere, these Real McCoy’s chinos are finely made, with all reproduction points all picked up as you'd expect, including urea buttons on the fly and pockets. 

Often a good sign of a quality make on chinos is the way the back pockets - usually uncovered and unfastened, at least on one side - keep a straight line over time. They are sufficiently reinforced and closely stitched to keep their shape. These do that well, as do my old Armoury ones

Overall, I think these McCoys chinos are a great everyday option. They’d suit any guy that wants something to chuck on with a sweatshirt at the weekend, and perhaps spend half his day on the floor playing with the kids. They only get better the more they’re worn like that, then washed and worn, washed and worn. 

The only issues are inevitably the price, and perhaps the rise. Ideally I’d have that a couple of centimetres higher, at least on the back. 

But then, this is really comparing the trousers to bespoke, where you can everything you want. And that’s something I’m trying to get out of the habit with. It rarely happens with RTW. 

Other clothes:

  • Navy sweatshirt from Merz B Schwanen via Trunk (size 5)
  • Vintage blue cotton bandana from The Vintage Showroom
  • White trainers from Margaret Howell/Mizuno
  • Rolex watch, GMT Master Ref. 1675 with faded bezel
  • Donegal coat, Permanent Style sample

Feel free to ask about any of the clothes in the comments. Most have also been covered previously, but I'm happy to supply the link.

Joe McCoy chino trousers in beige, size 32 waist, cost £265. 

therealmccoys.com

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt

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Jackson

Hi Simon

this isn’t really a question about the chinos im afraid but the coat!
I was just about to buy the ps Donegal cost online. I’ve wanted it for a couple of years and now have a job that would facilitate these sort of purchases. However! The coat in the photos I must say I almost prefer. Will such a thing be for sale any time soon?

Is it as heavy weight as the one in your shop?

Many thanks

Jackson

Thanks a lot, Simon. Interesting!

Here’s a slightly awkward question for you. Would you recommend the Donegal (the one currently listed in the PS shop) to function as a man’s only overcoat?

I hope to get a bespoke coat made, but probably not for a few more years at least and all of my current coats are, well, quite rubbish. Except for one nice dark green unlined coat from Caruso with big patch pockets and a belt. Looks nice, but is so thin that it’s basically no more than a long autumnal layer. I’d be wearing the PS Donegal with jeans and knitwear, but also with tailoring to the office. What do you think? Would I be better off going for something more structured? I can never tell, really, whether the effect of raglan sleeves is a wonderful one or a slightly strange one. Both perhaps.

Jackson

Jackson

Hey Simon

Certainly food for thought. I’ll have to have a think about raglans. Kind of like the re-adjusting of your eyes when looking at an optical illusion, on the one hand I think they look rather louche, effortless and simultaneously dramatic yet on the other, a bit anachronistic and ‘old-manny.’ It’s a hard call that I’m probably too indecisive to make!

I’d likely not wear it with a suit since I very, very rarely wear them. More likely occasionally with flannels, jacket and tie at the smartest end of the spectrum for me. I may well wait for the mid-grey to arrive!

As ever, thanks a lot for the advice. It’s much appreciated.

Jackson

Jackson

Many thanks, Simon. Agreed!
Final question for you, if that’s ok. Would you wear a grey herringbone sports jacket under the PS brown Donegal? Or is that too much of a texture overload?

Jackson

Interesting! Might have swayed me there then. Thanks again

George

The only other piece I could recommend for total coat coverage is a Loden. I have one from Cordings and whilst not super fine make it can do everything. Isn’t Uber warm but I run v hot

Alex

Hi Simon, very excited about this iteration of the donegal coat! FWIW, I would personally vote for a fabric equally as heavy as last year’s. I know there are many other considerations, of course.

Haackk

So will the sample Donegal coat turn into a PS offering? It looks great.

Alain

Hello Simon
I missed the brown donegal from last year and can hardly get over it (;-)
Any chance of finding one anywhere ? Is it definitely not going to restock ?
Although i am a big fan of herringbone, i lean towards browns much more than greys.
And thanks for your enlighting posts as always. I own a kaki Chino from the real mccoys and love them. Quality and feel are amazing and get better with wear.

Andrew Eckhardt

Very excited to hear that the new model will be in a grey herringbone! I’m sure you have plenty of input already, but I’d prefer a heavier fabric to a lighter one.

Darryl

Whilst recognising that there are clearly a lot of readers to whom chinos are important, I personaly find it very difficult to get excited about them. To me they seem the most pedestrian and least interesting trousers this side of jogger bottoms! Too ‘petty corporate’, perhaps too puritan. Nevertheless another comprehensive review in what is always an interesting read.

MBB355

Interesting comment from Darryl but I agree with Simon. I’m increasingly drawn to chinos. To be sure, I associate some chinos with “petty corporate”–mainly those from J Crew or Banana Republic (I don’t mean to be disparaging, but that’s the association I draw). But high-quality, well-cut chinos are another beast entirely. They’re probably the most versatile pant around. They tone down a tailored outfit without sacrificing too much elegance, since a well-cut chino will still drape and move beautifully. They’re a useful spring/summer analogue to flannels, as frescos can sometimes be a little too smart, sharp, and crisp, which makes them less charming than flannels and chinos. And chinos are a great denim alternative. They’re just a little smarter and more interesting than jeans (particularly when chinos take on that washed, worn patina), making you look just a little more put-together and well-dressed. And they look great with canvas sneakers. Interestingly, I don’t like canvas sneakers with jeans–I prefer to offset the casual-ness of jeans with a slightly smarter shoe like a suede loafer or chukka. But with chinos, I prefer “grounding” the outfit with casual canvas sneakers. (I recognize my discussion may be equivocating between “chinos” and “cotton trousers”–that’s because there’s ambiguity there and, as this article illustrates, the line between the two isn’t always clear. Still, I mean to endorse both).
All of that is to say, there’s much to love about chinos, including this chino series on PS.

Peter O

Cordings, New & Lingwood and Charles Tyrwhitt etc. in London for example are not American and feature as casual trousers chinos, so I don’t understand the objection? Or is the objection based on Savile Row, bespoke horizon?

Andrew Hughes

Hi Simon,
I have two pairs of the Joe McCoy chinos and as you mentioned they are expensive but worth the investment. I have had lots of compliments about them.
Regards,
Andrew

Rodrigo

Interestingly, seems like Mr Porter now carries a small selection of The Real Mccoy’s as well. This A2 jacket in suede should prove popular, as it’s arguably more versatile than their normal horsehide version.

https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/mens/product/the-real-mccoys/clothing/leather-jackets/type-a-2-suede-jacket/11452292646805281

Anonymous

Did you hem them or just roll up ? I have a pair and have double rolled until now… I think it is too alte to hem as there is a bit of a line on the rolls!

Chris K

Another insightful review Simon, much appreciated.

Having just invested in a couple of pairs of Black Horse Lane chinos, your comments regarding feeling more everyday in the case of this offering from The Real McCoy’s resonated with me. Something about the mid-rise and slightly slimmer leg does achieve this, also the case on the BHLA ones (I’m sure you’ll attest). Which at first, I was left longing a bit for the higher rise, wider leg I was used to seeing from the likes of the Armoury etc. but in reality, I find these easier to wear across the board, without feeling I’m coming to close to playing military dress up (much as I appreciate the more traditional style, I’m just aiming for versatility). Particularly when I’m really aiming for a capsule wardrobe as such. I just want well made, robust chinos that outside of a jacket, can wear with pretty much anything. Whether that’s with a leather bomber, a Valstarino, denim jacket, an overshirt, or with a beautiful raglan, which you have beautifully demonstrated here. And on that note.

Of course I have to ask about the Raglan, given how you’ve very smoothly dropped the hint in this post. Over the past 3 years, I’ve told myself every time I’m going to invest but this year I’m committing. The grey looks fantastic, and very versatile but of course my question is, is it as versatile as last years brown? I know I’m jumping the gun a bit here, but you’ve got me asking questions already. The only tricky situation I can see, is of course grey flannel trousers. Outside that, no issues. And I’m sure you may present an argument to counter that.

Ck

Chris K

Thanks Simon,

Very good points. I think that’s what’s settled it in my mind, it just looks so at home in an outfit like the one above. Much as I love the previous two iterations, their dark tone hints at the smarter side of things, which of course I love, but wearing denim and chinos everyday, of the three, this is without doubt the most suited to my current lifestyle. The grey herringbone is a different beast. The moment I saw it, in my mind I thought “That coat will look amazing with denim”.
Good point regarding the darker grey on the bottom for smarter occasions, I can see that working well.

Time for a waiting list request I think.

Ck

Mbb355

Respectfully, I think the charcoal herringbone was clearly the best Donegal. Charcoal donegal is so pleasing, with the white/cream flecks—it’s my favorite Donegal combo. Looks great with grey flannels. And I’ve always loved charcoal knitwear with denim. Losing grey flannels with the new Donegal would be a big loss. While I understand the appeal of trying out new colors each year, I hope the charcoal Donegal becomes available again.

R Abbott

Ii I had to have one coat, I’d go with the navy bridge coat. I’ve worn my PS version with jeans, with a navy suit, and everything in between. I wouldn’t wear it with a dinner jacket, but otherwise covers the full spectrum as far as I’m concerned.

Joe

Simon,
Having read the wonderful and informative articles on Chinos, and as someone who is looking for a nice pair that I can wear in a business casual setting (potentially with a Neopolitan Jacket), it would seem to me that Stoffa tend to be at the highest end of the offering whereby one could get them M2M with Rubato a close second..? Would that be a fair assessment..?

Joseph

I really feel this review Simon, the colour and the overall style of these Joe McCoy chinos are so pleasingly simple and versatile. Add the fact that TRM’s quality is nothing to scoff at, and this certainly falls under the category of foundational piece.
They’re in the exact same dimensions and proportions as my own trousers, cotton or otherwise. None of those are as easy to put on as they used to be just a year ago, so I’m likely not imagining that I’m out of shape. I should be more consistent in my attempts to break my current sedentary pandemic lifestyle if I want to wear these chinos. Ha!

Joseph

Oh, I forgot to ask Simon. When you measure the thighs of your trousers, do you do it at the fork or at a specific point mid-thigh?

Joseph

Copy that, thanks!

Dieter

As an alternative i would recommend the chinos from TELLASON, similar but for me the better fit, quality about the same level in my opinion. I think Real McCoys is a decent brand, but a little overpriced for what they offer.

Dieter

Yes i agree, i also like their sweatshirts. I think Real McCoys is probably the best of these kind of repro brands from Japan. I have an older chino from Studio D’Artisan which are also very nice, for me perfect for this kind of chino. To me these kind of chinos are perfect as casual trousers as an alternative to jeans, i do not see them as dull, but there are always different opinions. As you say they are very versatile, very easy to combine and wear with many other items, very uncomplicated.

CJ

If we’re suggesting great casual alternatives, as a huge The Real McCoy’s fanboy, I’d also put out there Rogue Territory’s Officer Trousers.

P.F.

Hi Simon,

Great article, as usual. Specially now that the new normal appears to be going in a much smart casual, or casual chic as you named it, direction.

One question regarding the sweatshirt. How does Merz’s loopwheeled sweatshirt compare with the Japanese ones? Any difference? Have you tried their loopwheeled tees?

Dieter

I think the Merz sweatshirts are well made but with a weird fit. Did anyone here tried the new Sunspel sweatshirt in Sea Island cotton? Could be good. To me Smedley polos are among the best i know, i think they are great.

Dieter

Thank you Simon, i will read it. The Smedley polos are certainly not the most durable, i think the main reason is that they are thinner and finer than many other polos. You are right, i generally dress more casual than you (being semi-retired) and do not care for details so much, i mean a bit less. But i still like to read your blog, you keep a high level & style in my opinion.

Dieter

Yes i know (made like knitwear). I think it’s not a problem, just washing at 30 degrees and inside out in laundry net, never had problems that way. They just wear out a bit earlier than some other more robust polos. Of course one should also air dry them. I treat regular polos the same and they keep their shape and condition longer that way. What do you think of Zanone polos (in their so called ice cotton)? I like them.

Alexander Fellinger

What do you mean by „weird fit“?
@Simon: anything unusual that you noticed yourself?
Thanks

Peter Hall

I was just about to press the order button on the Incotex chinos-although I really wanted a heavy, military pair so was demurring. Do you expect the colour to fade over time or just to soften?
Many years ago, I owned an original pair of these(summer service trouser iirc) and these seem to be very accurate.

Raj

Hi Simon

Big fan of the blog, in terms of chinos there is a lot of hype around Spoke , which offer more detailed sizes ie waist sizes in odd numbers and three choices of builds in terms of wideness of the leg ,not sure if they use left or right hand twill,but in my mind it is sorta like a pseudo made to measure.

I’m not sure what you would make of this if it worth the hype or just marketing?

SL

I’ve tried Spoke and find their chinos to be ok. I can rarely find any RTW trousers to fit. I have a slim waste but larger, athletic legs so thought they would be ideal as they offer 3 leg widths to accommodate.

The main issues are durability and shrinkage. The chinos fit me perfectly until they are washed at which point they become tighter in the lower leg leading to bunching around the knee as well as in the waist. This does not loosen again with further wear. A larger size would not solve the issue as that would throw the overall proportions out, especially in the seat.

However, their customer service is fantastic and they replaced a pair of chinos that developed a more significant fault after more than a year. But overall, sadly I won’t be buying anything more from them.

TK

I can understand why some people find chinos pedestrian. However, it is really difficult to find stylish RTW chinos and knitwear.Yesterday I ordered some heavily discounted chinos from Cordings,down from £145 to £50.Assuming they fit I know they will have to be slimmed down to fit my aesthetic. That said,the alterations will cost me nothing (I will do it myself).It’s such a pity that high street stores offer such unstylish products.

Peter O

I didn’t see any Cordings sale £50 chinos, maybe you mean needlecords. By the way, just about two years ago Cordings added 2% stretch to their otherwise 100% cotton chinos to advantage.

TK

They were only on sale for a day(part of the khaki drill suit)at that price then the sum increased to £125.I guess somebody at Cordings made a mistake over the original sale tag at £50.

Chris K

Simon,
apologies for the double post on this article, but it’s been a stimulating one on a number of levels, chinos, the outfit and of course the donegal.

My last question is regarding wearing bandanas. I don’t think I’ve seen a single outfit you’ve worn that hasn’t been slightly (and subtly) elevated by the inclusion of a bandana under a crew neck (Merz B. sweat in this case, but also knitwear). And this particularly hits a note when you consider how much more casually many of us are dressing. I know you have your reasons for wearing one, but those aside, to my eyes it just adds a certain something, making the outfit complete. Clutch Cafe’s offerings are tempting me.

I think I asked this recently, can’t remember where but can we expect a ‘wearing bandanas’ related post at some point soon? Perhaps just as importantly, the occasions you wouldn’t wear one. would be very helpful.

Ck

Peter Hall

Could you squeeze in ascots in the same piece,Simon?

Peter O

Ascots seem favored by German students at Heidelberg.

Peter Hall

I have a couple for autumn. Just for a splash of colour.

Chris K

Thanks Simon.

Amen! Truly, there’s no where else that facilitates such conversation. You don’t need me to tell you about the value of that!

Fantastic, I look forward to that one.

Ck

Jtkuga

I’ve been waiting for this review for a little bit now. Glad it is finally here and it doesn’t appear they disappoint. As someone who lives in a very hot part of the U.S. (Texas), I’m wondering would you consider these for year round wear, or would they be more of a cool weather chino. I generally “run cold” (skinny arms and legs I guess), but I would like to know if these would be appropriate for a hot summer as well as our cool, mild winters. Thanks as always.

Jtkuga

Simon,

Two follow up questions:

1. Is there a similarly styled chino you would recommend for summer?

2. In US sizes I typically wear 32-33. Now obviously that varies based on the brand. I have in the past worn 31-34 based on the particular brand. Cheaper brands I generally wear a 32 while brands that fit more true to size I wear a 33. Would you have a guess based on how this brand fits?

Peter O

I’ve never been to the SW – Texas (where cowboy style is at home), NM, AR, but I thought it was too hot to exist without air conditioning?

Fatih

Hi Simon, great review, and I really love this chinos series. Quick question, with all your passion and pursue for the right pair of chinos, do you have any plans to bring out your own design in the spirit of PS?

Rodrigo

Simon, do you still prefer your old Armoury military chinos over these? If yes and the model is no longer offered (as you mentioned before, there have been several changes since), why not consider some kind of PS collaboration to effectively reissue that model? I am sure you will find good reception for it.

MBB355

Relatedly, Simon, what do you think of The Armoury’s sport chino? I love ’em. A little slimmer than the army chino, and good pale/cold shades of beige and olive. Work well with tailored and casual ensembles.

Peter O

When you talk colour and colour difference, do you ever consider Pantone labels?

Peter O

I naively presume the colour dyes of cloth and clothes manufacturers fit Pantone system and identification.

Martin

Is the Armoury`s brown beige similar to the colour of the ones from Black Horse Lane?

Harry

Hi Simon,

Have really been enjoying this series of articles. Thank you.

I purchased a pair of the Armoury Army chinos based off your recommendation. I know they aren’t the same as yours but was curious if you tapered the ones you got? And if so, by what dimensions. I much prefer the way yours look but not sure if it was a tailoring choice or if the model changed that much.

Thanks again,

Alex

It’s a shame that most sizes appear to be sold out on their website. I was considering a trip to their store in Covent Garden to try a pair, but as they don’t have my size online I imagine the shop won’t have them either.

Alex

Ah, thanks for letting me know. I thought they might have closed, but wasn’t sure if it was due to COVID and that they had re-opened since shops were permitted to do so. Sackville Street’s a definite improvement over Covent Garden.

Oscar

The new store, is that one opened yet? Im traveling to London in September and would love to see their goods live

Michael

Hi Simon,
You can count me in for the PS Donegal this year. I hope it’s going to be sufficient stock and not happen like The finest polo , they went really fast.

Richard

Simon,
Thank you for another great review. Can you talk about sizing for these chinos? Per TRM’s website it seems like sizing up is appropriate.
Best,

Richard

I wear a size 32 in 45RPM and other of the rack pants/jeans but when I measure the waist on my pants they are closer to 35 inches. So unsure what size to take here.

Rik

Hi Simon – how would you look after these chinos? Is it a dry clean job or home washing and ironing?

Peter O

Dear Simon,

So left-hand means from left down to right, right-hand means from right down to left?

West Point is equivalent to Sandhurst, right? Any military
academy of U.S. government its students are to my knowledge not called officers, rather cadets. It is true West Point is to train future officers. If you refer to officers at West Point, you refer not to its students, but to that part of its faculty which have this rank.

RSH

I have these chinos in both the beige and brown. They are incredibly study and my default trousers for weekends on my hands and knees with my son. The sturdiness is also very comforting. They are very thick which, in the UK at least, extends use to mild winter days. Definitely not for hot weather, but that is when the linens come out. The beige is extremely versatile and definitely the capsule option. But I have found the browns to be great for getting messy and, in my experience, lighten quite substantially and with really distinctive fade marks from washing drying. The one caveat is that they do shrink hugely in the first couple of washes so if they fit perfectly out of the box then I would definitely recommend upsizing.

RSH

Yes I am tumble drying. Was that a mistake?

Ian A

Wow the athletic trainer debuts on Permanent Style!

Alex

I’m slightly surprised at the lack of comments on the trainers as well!
This is something I’ve been giving some thought to recently as during lockdown I’ve started walking much more (everywhere, and not purely for exercise; for example a nine mile round trip for dinner a few days ago), to the point where I feel the need for something more comfortable than Common Projects or Converse.
I’m loathe to go full-on modern sports trainer even with non-sportswear (lest I end up looking like an American tourist!) so had been considering the Nike Tailwind 79 but will have a look at the Challengers and Margaret Howell’s; just wondering if you’ve done any longer walks in the latter?

Andrew

Simon, thanks for this. These look like the ones I’ve been after but can you comment on the weight? Is it like a 3 or 4 season? I live in UAE and overly heavy Chinos dont work well

Also, would love an article on the rise of trousers. I confess to not understanding it but know it makes an enormous difference

Spencer

Hey Andrew, I’m also in the UAE. I’ve been struggling to find chinos that are tolerable for the climate. Luca Faloni has some lightweight options I’m considering. Not sure where these would fall on the smart/casual spectrum.

JVI

Thanks for a great series on chinos! One question regarding the sweatshirt. Do you normally take size M in knitwear? I think we are roughly the same size, and I am M in almost all knitwear. Was planning to order size 5 (like you), but Trunk writes that they highly recommend sizing up. What is your experience?

zo

the colour and the cut of these is brilliant, but i really get put off by that double stitched seam on the outside of the leg (pocket downwards, im sure theres a term for it). prefer a cleaner ‘folded-over’ seam. its a peeve that i cannot explain.

Dr Peter

Great piece, Simon. I love the colour and the cut. I have quite a few vintage US Military Surplus trousers in both heavy wool and cotton, as well as wool/poly blends in USAF issue. I really like the high rise and snug, flat front fit around the waist and hips.
However, I would love to know the weight of the cloth used in these McCoy trousers. I am wondering how they might compare to the heaviest trousers put out by Bill’s Khakis here in the US. My favourite is the 10.2oz Bullard Field Pants, of which I have half a dozen in pleated and flat front models and in khaki, stone and olive drab. They wear like iron. The 15th anniversary Signature model and the Bremerton twills are also fine trousers. They are all made in the US. Are the McCoys made in the UK?

Nils

Hello Simon,
Thanks for a great article – I’ve enjoyed the whole series on chinos.
Have you had the chance to try on Berg & Berg’s chinos? They recently updated their flat front model to be slightly higher rise and wider in the thighs. I understand these are dressier than the Real McCoy’s featured here, but how would you consider the B&B ones as a slightly dressier option?
Thanks

Nils

How do you think the B&B would compare to Rubato’s chinos that you reviewed previously in this article series? In terms of design as well as quality (although I appreciate it may be hard for you to say given you haven’t tried them).

For reference, these are the B&B chinos I am referring to, which I think are the most comparable ones: https://bergbergstore.com/products/alf-cotton-trousers-khaki

Thanks Simon.

Nils

Of course, I understand that given you haven’t tried them. Apologies for creating such a long thread, but I thought it’d be interesting to hear what you mean by ‘quality’ in this regard. E.g. in your complete capsule article, you mention B&B in the ‘Level A’ category as a good make. What is it that makes you say Rubato would be at a higher quality than B&B?
For someone like myself, as a student with a rather limited budget, I try to find the items at the intersection of good quality and good value. What I mean by quality is mostly quality in the fabrics, which should mean that the item lasts longer. But I imagine that for you ‘quality’ may mean something else, with more focus on the finer details, for example.
I suppose this relates more to the discussion on quality/value you wrote on in the B&B article, so apologies for bringing up an old topic!

David

Doubtless the ubiquitous chino has a role in many a man’s wardrobe – Personally I wear my Officine Generale fisherman’s to walk my dogs and on the boat.
It also pays to have a good, well cut pair and these look to be those.
That said, as an item per se, I don’t think they do much to enhance any man’s appearance and the chino, plimsols and crew neck look does nothing to elevate the glum sartorial situation evident on our streets.
On a positive note, the V3 Donegal Coat looks great. I have the V1 and have never looked back !

Alex

I feel there’s a disconnect between these sorts of comments and the real world. If people where I live dressed in chinos, a crewneck and clean plimsolls as a matter of course, instead of chunky trainers, poorly fitting jeans/sweats and label-festooned t shirts then it would instantly elevate the area’s style

Nick Drake

Hi Simon, so your email arrived just now, I read your Real McCoy review, I thought yes, the ideal chinos. Straight to the website… SOLD OUT. Frustrating. Might they restock or is that the end of the story?

Richard

Hey Simon,

I’m 6’5” and so leg length is often an issue for me with off the rack trousers (I’m about 33 – 34 inch waist, but about 37 inch length). Do you have any advice for me on where I should look for chinos of this quality?

Richard

Tommy Mack

Thanks Simon: another great review. I’ll definitely consider these: I’ve got several pairs of lightweight summer and midweight spring-autumn chinos and cotton trousers but a heavier pair for colder days is definitely a gap in my wardrobe.

I can understand why some people find chinos bland or dislike the association with US business-casualwear, certainly I’d never wear a baggy Dockers-style pair but a good, well-fitting pair are one of the most versatile pairs of trousers a man can own.

Ametorist

Iron Heart also make excellent chinos, very much in the same vein as yours from TRM. High-quality fabric, slim but not skinny cut and the classic light color that goes with everything. And the price…similarly high, but worth it if you appreciate the quality and plan to enjoy breaking them in over many wears.

Will

Simon, do you take a 32 in RTW usually? Would you say they fit ‘true to size’? Thank you

Paul

If this was already discussed, I apologize (I’ve been scanning through the story), but I was curious what you thought about chinos and the often slightly wrinkled affair that they give off. Take for example the shot of your shoes and lower legs. I often try to pair chinos with nice shoes (and not sneakers), as well as button down shirts and cashmere sweaters. Sometimes I throw on a knit tie for the professorial look (that’s what I do). My chinos are always wrinkled after about an hour unless they’re the baggy kind that drape (I prefer a slightly slimmer look). What are your thoughts on this? Should I be concerned about getting something less wrinkle-prone or am I fussing over something I can relax more about?

Anthony

Where do you consider Bills Chinos in the hierarchy of Chinos? It has been years since I’ve owned a pair and I believe that the company changed owners. Will you be doing a review of them?

Lucas

Hi Simon, thank you for this interesting article. Please, let me ask you some questions:
1. Would you wear these chinos with boots, full brogue derbies or lofers (the last two in suede)?
2. I guess you wouldn’t wear these chinos with a jacket (even Neapolitan). But what about a shawl cardigan? What about a Valstarino or similar? Or perhaps these chinos are more appropriated to wear with overshirts or M-65 jackets?
3. Can you iron the crease in these chinos? Or you shouldn’t like you neither do with your chinos from Rubato?
Thank you for your help

Chancellor

On the issue of left v. right-handed twills. Is it possible to take one of the twills and cut it at 90 degrees to get the look of the opposite twill, but keep the performance? E.g. rotate a left-handed twill 90 degrees and cut and make the trousers with it pointed that way?
Similarly, is it possible to rotate twill 45 degrees (cut on the bias?) so that it runs up-down or left-right?
On another note, if one wants a high-rise chino that leans as smart as possible, which of the brands we’ve covered would best fulfill that?

SGM

Just to chime in, it would be a very quick purchase from me if you did go for this fabric in the end. The shade looks just right for casual wear.

SGM

Are you able to provide the detail on the cloth?

Catalin

Hi Simon,
Very interesting article as usual,keen to find your opinion about Brycelands chinos.
Keep safe.
Catalin

John

Simon, two questions on loopwheel sweatshirts, if i may:

1) Did you try The Real McCoy’s raglan loopwheel sweater (https://therealmccoys.com/collections/tops/products/loopwheel-raglan-sleeve-sweatshirt-ash-grey)? I think it is a crewneck version of the milk hoodie you have from them. It’s much more boxy than the Merz one you wear here.

2) The Merz and Real McCoy’s loopwheels seem to have a low/wide neckline; do you find they work with your PS Oxford shirts?

Thanks!

Rob

Have you tried Iron Heart chinos? They too are a Japanese brand, but the rise looks to be abit higher, and they come in multiple cuts (slim to full leg, though the ‘slim’ looks to be equivalent to the Real McCoys ones.
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/chinos-workpants-overalls/

Chris

McCoys are perpetually sold out of these chinos. Sort of frustrating.

Philip

Simon
I have just purchased a pair in olive/pale brown (same chino, they assure me). Do you wash these in a washing machine? At what temperature?
Also, the length is very long (requiring three fold overs- despite me being over 6 foot). In the picture you have only one turnover. Do they shrink significantly in leg length after first wash or do you have very long legs?
The quality certainly seems very high.
Many thanks.

William Gibson

I think you have identified RHT and LHT twill incorrectly in your pics and description. RHT moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right (in your pic its incorrectly labelled) and traditionally creates a more compact fabric. LHT is the reverse moves from bottom right to top left – this traditionally opens up the yarn making it softer handled.

FB

Also, “As I said, dress cottons are left-hand”

JW

Hi Simon,

Firstly, great site. I find your articles and guidance incredibly helpful.

I struggle with chinos as – after a long day at work – they lose shape and start to look like pyjamas.

My question is on chino weight.

Do you think a 10oz pair in 100% cotton would help? I’d go heavier but difficult to find in Asia especially when I need them to be relatively smart for work rather than workwear.

Thanks!

John

Hi Simon, do you think workwear chinos like this go with your PS Oxford shirt, or are the chinos too casual? And in terms of shoes, would these chinos pair with Alden’s LHS loafers in snuff suede?

I’m trying to work out what i would pair chinos like this with. Or rather than shirts/loafers, are these chinos strictly for more casual shoes/t-shirts/sweatshirts?

Can i ask when you might be posting a review of BHL’s chinos?

Thanks!

Rups

This fascination with Steve McQueen in menswear circles whom you reference above is bizarre. The man himself if you read a little about him was a complete slob in his own time, enjoying getting drunk on beers and watching endless television on the couch. Awful person as well by all accounts with many incidents of women beating and getting into brawls. Had deep mental issues. I can only imagine dying at 50 helped to create a personality cult of sorts around his persona. Now a whole plethora of brands cite his wearing some garment or the other, try to use his imagery if possible and generally get on the bandwagon.

Morten

Hello Simon,
May I ask why you prefer this pair over the Toys McCoys? It’s tempting to buy a pair that’s possible to try on before buying, whereas this pair seems to be online only for European customers.
Morten

Felix

Hi Simon,
These looks so good. Seems like a high quality pair too. I think american 50s clothing is some of the best, if not the best casual clothing. Always so sturdy and durable.
Putting chinos aside, what’s your take on ecru jeans? or even cream jeans? Where do they fit in the wardrobe?
I recently picked up a pair of ecru jeans from The Worker’s Club. I think they are pretty solid and I like the color and texture of them. Unfortunately my staple brown suede chelsea boots. They are brown with a grey-ish tone to them and I thought they would fit well but they really don’t.

So right now I’m in the market for a pair of new suede chelsea boots that go well with that ecru tone of a pair of jeans and I was wondering what your take is on ecru jeans and what kind of brown colors you would pair with them? I have a pair of really dark sneakers in chocolate brown suede that I think works alright but I feel that they are a bit too dark at times.

What medium or lighter colors on a pair of suede shoes would you pair with ecru jeans? You think a pair of light tobacco colored boots could work or would they be too colorful?

So tl:dr What is your take on ecru jeans and what colors would pair with them, be it in suede or any other material. A pair of pants is obviosly a big piece so whatever color they are will be a center point.

Best Regards,
Felix

Felix

Cheers! I’ll check that out. I actually spotted a really nice pair of chelseas in that mushroom color online, think I’m going to need to have a look at them in-store asap.

Alexander

Dear Simon! Did you ever come across the chinos (or other items) from the New York label “3sixteen”? So far I have a couple of heavyweight pocket tees from them, which I really like. Their chinos look also very promising: https://www.3sixteen.com/collections/chinos/products/ch-44x-khaki-selvedge-chino
They are using a 12oz cotton from Kuroki Mills and the chinos also appear to have a reasonable rise.
Thank you!

Benjamin

Hi Simon, I’ve always admired these chinos but been deterred by the cost. I like the idea of the raw chino breaking in and improving over time much like raw denim. However how heavy and substantial are these? You say they are great every day chinos, would they be wearable for example for the type of weather we are having in London at the moment? I have a pair of heavy Momotaro chinos I got in Japan which have broken in really nicely but I would only wear them in colder weather. Thanks.

Vince

Hi Simon

I tend to have an issue with slimmer fits due to athletic thighs and a smaller waist. Would you recommend going a size up and having the waist tailored in with these seeing as they’re not wide legged?

Cheers:)

Michael

I would strongly promote these chinos. They are immensely comfortable to wear, the make is excellent and the fabric is strong. All clothes I have bought from the Real McCoys have been an incredible joy to own and on the basis of longevity and joy to wear they are affordable. The real McCoy clothes often bring me as much or even more joy than many of my bespoke pieces because they are really really well made and have a great great style to them. They make me feel cool. You don’t have to be a certain type of person to wear work wear and enjoy it. The Real McCoys are really about quality and authenticity. My M-65 Field jacket is just an absolute jewel of a jacket and nobody knows what you are wearing (for me an indisputable benefit). For me they have also been very consistent in sizing which is a pain with Iron Heart for example (I have exchanged 70% of my jeans bought from them/ sometimes I am 33, sometimes 36). It has become for me a bit of cult brand but it’s on the basis of quality and wining my trust that clothes have been thought out and made well.

John

Hi Simon, i am very tempted by a pair of these coming into Autumn/Winter and was hoping for your thoughts on two style-related questions:

1) Would you wear these just with a tucked-in shirt, and a belt? I ask this as you mention the rise is a little low, so was wondering if you only wear your pair with a jumper over the top.

2) Also, related to the rise, do they work ok with your hoodies from Real McCoys (or other Japanese loopwheel sweaters), given that they are quite short in body length?

Many thanks

John

Thanks Simon, a great versatile option!