The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

||- Begin Content -||

If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual (from Casatlantic) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair. 

Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubato - just more on the workwear end of the spectrum. 

These are the Joe McCoy chino trousers from Japanese brand The Real McCoy’s. 

As regular readers will know, I’m a big fan of The Real McCoy’s because they generally have the same aim as I’ve always had with tailoring: the highest quality, with pretty subtle, classic style. 

Although they are essentially a repro brand - faithfully reproducing American clothing from the 1940s and 50s - the pieces they reproduce are mostly quite understated and wearable. 

They aren’t cheap. That focus on quality and precise reproduction means they have to order very small runs of material and hardware, often getting a mill to produce something entirely new. These chinos are £265.

I don’t really care whether the reproduction is precise or not, but I do care deeply about quality. And I’m usually prepared to pay a little more if those two have to come together. 

So what makes these chinos so useful, so everyday? 

The first is the colour. This pale beige is a standard American military shade, but it’s also an civilian classic. It's the one you wore from Gap when you were a kid, or perhaps from Ralph Lauren when you were a little older. 

It goes with everything: navy and black, brown and green, cold and warm. The only possible exception is mid- to light grey tops, like a grey sweatshirt. But even then it can work if there’s some contrast elsewhere, like a white T-shirt or a dark belt. 

When I was a teenager, and wearing baggy versions of these from Gap, I’d have a black, long-sleeved Pearl Jam T-shirt on top. (I still wear an old favourite now and again, though usually for housepainting or similar.) 

Today, my favourite accompaniments are a white-oxford button-down shirt, or a blue sweatshirt like the one from Merz b Schwanen (via Trunk) shown here. That’s a size 5, worn with an old blue cotton bandana. 

The other thing that makes the McCoy chinos so everyday is the cut.

These are not original military wide-legged or high-rise chinos. They have a hem measurement of 20.5cm and 29.5cm at the thigh (in this, a size 32). They are slim, though not skinny. 

Compare that to the more common shape of classic menswear chinos, like the Armoury Army style, which has a hem of 23.5cm and a thigh measurement of 31cm. 

McCoy’s does do a wider-leg chino too, the US Army 41. But this Joe McCoy pair is specifically inspired by the ones Steve McQueen used to wear. Often with a sweatshirt, and most famously in The Great Escape

Interestingly, The Real McCoy’s doesn’t have the licence to use the McQueen name, but another Japanese company called Toys McCoy does. The two used to be part of the same outfit, along with Freewheelers, but the three split into different labels years ago. 

Son of a Stag in London stocks Toys McCoy and I have tried their official version, but prefer this pair. 

The rise on these chinos is also quite mainstream: I measure the front rise as 28cm inches, although the size guide says they should be 29. They did lose at least a centimetre from the original raw state, as the guide predicted. 

That’s definitely a mid-rise, and lower than more Army-inspired pairs. It’s the same as the Rubato pair covered previously, though those are a little higher at the back. 

The biggest difference from that Rubato pair and any mainstream chino is the weight and strength of the cloth. It is dense and tough. More so than any other chino I’ve worn or covered. 

It’s still nothing compared to heavy denims, like my 21oz pair from Blackhorse Lane. And it has softened nicely after a few washes. But it's that toughness that makes it feel like a workwear chino.

One thing we haven’t talked about in our coverage of chinos is whether the material is a left or a right-hand twill. 

In general, most dress trousers are a right-hand twill and most mainstream, casual chinos are a left-hand twill. You can spot it from the direction the twill of the cloth runs down the trousers (top right to bottom left, or top left to bottom right).

What’s the difference? Well, in general a right-hand twill tends to be denser and sharper, while a left-hand twill is more open and softer. 

The reason is that the yarn gets twisted in a different direction as it’s woven - often referred to as an ‘S’ or a ‘Z’ twill, illustrating the direction as a letter. A left-hand or S twill gets twisted more in the weave, and so produces a harder and smoother material. 

Below: Real McCoys on the left, with a right-hand twill; Incotex on the right with a left-hand.

As I said, dress cottons are right-hand, and so are chinos we’ve covered before like the Rubato pair, the original Armoury Army chinos, and this Real McCoy’s pair. 

By contrast, the newer Armoury Army chinos are left-hand weave, as are mainstream chinos like Incotex.

When The Real McCoy’s calls its cotton a ‘West Point’ cloth, this is what it’s referring to. Army officers - from West Point military academy - tended to have smarter chinos, with a right-hand twill. 

Neither is necessarily better, and as with all cloth, it's only one factor alongside weight, fibre, finish and so on.

In general left-hand tends to feel softer, but there’s also a particular softness about a dense cloth like right-hand cotton which has been worn and washed a lot. Right-hand also tends to look a little shiny before it’s washed a couple of times. 

Elsewhere, these Real McCoy’s chinos are finely made, with all reproduction points all picked up as you'd expect, including urea buttons on the fly and pockets. 

Often a good sign of a quality make on chinos is the way the back pockets - usually uncovered and unfastened, at least on one side - keep a straight line over time. They are sufficiently reinforced and closely stitched to keep their shape. These do that well, as do my old Armoury ones

Overall, I think these McCoys chinos are a great everyday option. They’d suit any guy that wants something to chuck on with a sweatshirt at the weekend, and perhaps spend half his day on the floor playing with the kids. They only get better the more they’re worn like that, then washed and worn, washed and worn. 

The only issues are inevitably the price, and perhaps the rise. Ideally I’d have that a couple of centimetres higher, at least on the back. 

But then, this is really comparing the trousers to bespoke, where you can everything you want. And that’s something I’m trying to get out of the habit with. It rarely happens with RTW. 

Other clothes:

  • Navy sweatshirt from Merz B Schwanen via Trunk (size 5)
  • Vintage blue cotton bandana from The Vintage Showroom
  • White trainers from Margaret Howell/Mizuno
  • Rolex watch, GMT Master Ref. 1675 with faded bezel
  • Donegal coat, Permanent Style sample

Feel free to ask about any of the clothes in the comments. Most have also been covered previously, but I'm happy to supply the link.

Joe McCoy chino trousers in beige, size 32 waist, cost £265.

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt

Notify of

Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

Hi Simon

this isn’t really a question about the chinos im afraid but the coat!
I was just about to buy the ps Donegal cost online. I’ve wanted it for a couple of years and now have a job that would facilitate these sort of purchases. However! The coat in the photos I must say I almost prefer. Will such a thing be for sale any time soon?

Is it as heavy weight as the one in your shop?

Many thanks


Thanks a lot, Simon. Interesting!

Here’s a slightly awkward question for you. Would you recommend the Donegal (the one currently listed in the PS shop) to function as a man’s only overcoat?

I hope to get a bespoke coat made, but probably not for a few more years at least and all of my current coats are, well, quite rubbish. Except for one nice dark green unlined coat from Caruso with big patch pockets and a belt. Looks nice, but is so thin that it’s basically no more than a long autumnal layer. I’d be wearing the PS Donegal with jeans and knitwear, but also with tailoring to the office. What do you think? Would I be better off going for something more structured? I can never tell, really, whether the effect of raglan sleeves is a wonderful one or a slightly strange one. Both perhaps.



Hey Simon

Certainly food for thought. I’ll have to have a think about raglans. Kind of like the re-adjusting of your eyes when looking at an optical illusion, on the one hand I think they look rather louche, effortless and simultaneously dramatic yet on the other, a bit anachronistic and ‘old-manny.’ It’s a hard call that I’m probably too indecisive to make!

I’d likely not wear it with a suit since I very, very rarely wear them. More likely occasionally with flannels, jacket and tie at the smartest end of the spectrum for me. I may well wait for the mid-grey to arrive!

As ever, thanks a lot for the advice. It’s much appreciated.



Many thanks, Simon. Agreed!
Final question for you, if that’s ok. Would you wear a grey herringbone sports jacket under the PS brown Donegal? Or is that too much of a texture overload?


Interesting! Might have swayed me there then. Thanks again


The only other piece I could recommend for total coat coverage is a Loden. I have one from Cordings and whilst not super fine make it can do everything. Isn’t Uber warm but I run v hot


Hi Simon, very excited about this iteration of the donegal coat! FWIW, I would personally vote for a fabric equally as heavy as last year’s. I know there are many other considerations, of course.


So will the sample Donegal coat turn into a PS offering? It looks great.


Hello Simon
I missed the brown donegal from last year and can hardly get over it (;-)
Any chance of finding one anywhere ? Is it definitely not going to restock ?
Although i am a big fan of herringbone, i lean towards browns much more than greys.
And thanks for your enlighting posts as always. I own a kaki Chino from the real mccoys and love them. Quality and feel are amazing and get better with wear.

Andrew Eckhardt

Very excited to hear that the new model will be in a grey herringbone! I’m sure you have plenty of input already, but I’d prefer a heavier fabric to a lighter one.


Whilst recognising that there are clearly a lot of readers to whom chinos are important, I personaly find it very difficult to get excited about them. To me they seem the most pedestrian and least interesting trousers this side of jogger bottoms! Too ‘petty corporate’, perhaps too puritan. Nevertheless another comprehensive review in what is always an interesting read.


Interesting comment from Darryl but I agree with Simon. I’m increasingly drawn to chinos. To be sure, I associate some chinos with “petty corporate”–mainly those from J Crew or Banana Republic (I don’t mean to be disparaging, but that’s the association I draw). But high-quality, well-cut chinos are another beast entirely. They’re probably the most versatile pant around. They tone down a tailored outfit without sacrificing too much elegance, since a well-cut chino will still drape and move beautifully. They’re a useful spring/summer analogue to flannels, as frescos can sometimes be a little too smart, sharp, and crisp, which makes them less charming than flannels and chinos. And chinos are a great denim alternative. They’re just a little smarter and more interesting than jeans (particularly when chinos take on that washed, worn patina), making you look just a little more put-together and well-dressed. And they look great with canvas sneakers. Interestingly, I don’t like canvas sneakers with jeans–I prefer to offset the casual-ness of jeans with a slightly smarter shoe like a suede loafer or chukka. But with chinos, I prefer “grounding” the outfit with casual canvas sneakers. (I recognize my discussion may be equivocating between “chinos” and “cotton trousers”–that’s because there’s ambiguity there and, as this article illustrates, the line between the two isn’t always clear. Still, I mean to endorse both).
All of that is to say, there’s much to love about chinos, including this chino series on PS.

Peter O

Cordings, New & Lingwood and Charles Tyrwhitt etc. in London for example are not American and feature as casual trousers chinos, so I don’t understand the objection? Or is the objection based on Savile Row, bespoke horizon?

Andrew Hughes

Hi Simon,
I have two pairs of the Joe McCoy chinos and as you mentioned they are expensive but worth the investment. I have had lots of compliments about them.


Interestingly, seems like Mr Porter now carries a small selection of The Real Mccoy’s as well. This A2 jacket in suede should prove popular, as it’s arguably more versatile than their normal horsehide version.


Did you hem them or just roll up ? I have a pair and have double rolled until now… I think it is too alte to hem as there is a bit of a line on the rolls!

Chris K

Another insightful review Simon, much appreciated.

Having just invested in a couple of pairs of Black Horse Lane chinos, your comments regarding feeling more everyday in the case of this offering from The Real McCoy’s resonated with me. Something about the mid-rise and slightly slimmer leg does achieve this, also the case on the BHLA ones (I’m sure you’ll attest). Which at first, I was left longing a bit for the higher rise, wider leg I was used to seeing from the likes of the Armoury etc. but in reality, I find these easier to wear across the board, without feeling I’m coming to close to playing military dress up (much as I appreciate the more traditional style, I’m just aiming for versatility). Particularly when I’m really aiming for a capsule wardrobe as such. I just want well made, robust chinos that outside of a jacket, can wear with pretty much anything. Whether that’s with a leather bomber, a Valstarino, denim jacket, an overshirt, or with a beautiful raglan, which you have beautifully demonstrated here. And on that note.

Of course I have to ask about the Raglan, given how you’ve very smoothly dropped the hint in this post. Over the past 3 years, I’ve told myself every time I’m going to invest but this year I’m committing. The grey looks fantastic, and very versatile but of course my question is, is it as versatile as last years brown? I know I’m jumping the gun a bit here, but you’ve got me asking questions already. The only tricky situation I can see, is of course grey flannel trousers. Outside that, no issues. And I’m sure you may present an argument to counter that.


Chris K

Thanks Simon,

Very good points. I think that’s what’s settled it in my mind, it just looks so at home in an outfit like the one above. Much as I love the previous two iterations, their dark tone hints at the smarter side of things, which of course I love, but wearing denim and chinos everyday, of the three, this is without doubt the most suited to my current lifestyle. The grey herringbone is a different beast. The moment I saw it, in my mind I thought “That coat will look amazing with denim”.
Good point regarding the darker grey on the bottom for smarter occasions, I can see that working well.

Time for a waiting list request I think.



Respectfully, I think the charcoal herringbone was clearly the best Donegal. Charcoal donegal is so pleasing, with the white/cream flecks—it’s my favorite Donegal combo. Looks great with grey flannels. And I’ve always loved charcoal knitwear with denim. Losing grey flannels with the new Donegal would be a big loss. While I understand the appeal of trying out new colors each year, I hope the charcoal Donegal becomes available again.

R Abbott

Ii I had to have one coat, I’d go with the navy bridge coat. I’ve worn my PS version with jeans, with a navy suit, and everything in between. I wouldn’t wear it with a dinner jacket, but otherwise covers the full spectrum as far as I’m concerned.


Having read the wonderful and informative articles on Chinos, and as someone who is looking for a nice pair that I can wear in a business casual setting (potentially with a Neopolitan Jacket), it would seem to me that Stoffa tend to be at the highest end of the offering whereby one could get them M2M with Rubato a close second..? Would that be a fair assessment..?


I really feel this review Simon, the colour and the overall style of these Joe McCoy chinos are so pleasingly simple and versatile. Add the fact that TRM’s quality is nothing to scoff at, and this certainly falls under the category of foundational piece.
They’re in the exact same dimensions and proportions as my own trousers, cotton or otherwise. None of those are as easy to put on as they used to be just a year ago, so I’m likely not imagining that I’m out of shape. I should be more consistent in my attempts to break my current sedentary pandemic lifestyle if I want to wear these chinos. Ha!


Oh, I forgot to ask Simon. When you measure the thighs of your trousers, do you do it at the fork or at a specific point mid-thigh?


Copy that, thanks!


As an alternative i would recommend the chinos from TELLASON, similar but for me the better fit, quality about the same level in my opinion. I think Real McCoys is a decent brand, but a little overpriced for what they offer.


Yes i agree, i also like their sweatshirts. I think Real McCoys is probably the best of these kind of repro brands from Japan. I have an older chino from Studio D’Artisan which are also very nice, for me perfect for this kind of chino. To me these kind of chinos are perfect as casual trousers as an alternative to jeans, i do not see them as dull, but there are always different opinions. As you say they are very versatile, very easy to combine and wear with many other items, very uncomplicated.


If we’re suggesting great casual alternatives, as a huge The Real McCoy’s fanboy, I’d also put out there Rogue Territory’s Officer Trousers.


Hi Simon,

Great article, as usual. Specially now that the new normal appears to be going in a much smart casual, or casual chic as you named it, direction.

One question regarding the sweatshirt. How does Merz’s loopwheeled sweatshirt compare with the Japanese ones? Any difference? Have you tried their loopwheeled tees?


I think the Merz sweatshirts are well made but with a weird fit. Did anyone here tried the new Sunspel sweatshirt in Sea Island cotton? Could be good. To me Smedley polos are among the best i know, i think they are great.


Thank you Simon, i will read it. The Smedley polos are certainly not the most durable, i think the main reason is that they are thinner and finer than many other polos. You are right, i generally dress more casual than you (being semi-retired) and do not care for details so much, i mean a bit less. But i still like to read your blog, you keep a high level & style in my opinion.


Yes i know (made like knitwear). I think it’s not a problem, just washing at 30 degrees and inside out in laundry net, never had problems that way. They just wear out a bit earlier than some other more robust polos. Of course one should also air dry them. I treat regular polos the same and they keep their shape and condition longer that way. What do you think of Zanone polos (in their so called ice cotton)? I like them.

Alexander Fellinger

What do you mean by „weird fit“?
@Simon: anything unusual that you noticed yourself?

Peter Hall

I was just about to press the order button on the Incotex chinos-although I really wanted a heavy, military pair so was demurring. Do you expect the colour to fade over time or just to soften?
Many years ago, I owned an original pair of these(summer service trouser iirc) and these seem to be very accurate.


Hi Simon

Big fan of the blog, in terms of chinos there is a lot of hype around Spoke , which offer more detailed sizes ie waist sizes in odd numbers and three choices of builds in terms of wideness of the leg ,not sure if they use left or right hand twill,but in my mind it is sorta like a pseudo made to measure.

I’m not sure what you would make of this if it worth the hype or just marketing?


I’ve tried Spoke and find their chinos to be ok. I can rarely find any RTW trousers to fit. I have a slim waste but larger, athletic legs so thought they would be ideal as they offer 3 leg widths to accommodate.

The main issues are durability and shrinkage. The chinos fit me perfectly until they are washed at which point they become tighter in the lower leg leading to bunching around the knee as well as in the waist. This does not loosen again with further wear. A larger size would not solve the issue as that would throw the overall proportions out, especially in the seat.

However, their customer service is fantastic and they replaced a pair of chinos that developed a more significant fault after more than a year. But overall, sadly I won’t be buying anything more from them.


I can understand why some people find chinos pedestrian. However, it is really difficult to find stylish RTW chinos and knitwear.Yesterday I ordered some heavily discounted chinos from Cordings,down from £145 to £50.Assuming they fit I know they will have to be slimmed down to fit my aesthetic. That said,the alterations will cost me nothing (I will do it myself).It’s such a pity that high street stores offer such unstylish products.

Peter O

I didn’t see any Cordings sale £50 chinos, maybe you mean needlecords. By the way, just about two years ago Cordings added 2% stretch to their otherwise 100% cotton chinos to advantage.


They were only on sale for a day(part of the khaki drill suit)at that price then the sum increased to £125.I guess somebody at Cordings made a mistake over the original sale tag at £50.

Chris K

apologies for the double post on this article, but it’s been a stimulating one on a number of levels, chinos, the outfit and of course the donegal.

My last question is regarding wearing bandanas. I don’t think I’ve seen a single outfit you’ve worn that hasn’t been slightly (and subtly) elevated by the inclusion of a bandana under a crew neck (Merz B. sweat in this case, but also knitwear). And this particularly hits a note when you consider how much more casually many of us are dressing. I know you have your reasons for wearing one, but those aside, to my eyes it just adds a certain something, making the outfit complete. Clutch Cafe’s offerings are tempting me.

I think I asked this recently, can’t remember where but can we expect a ‘wearing bandanas’ related post at some point soon? Perhaps just as importantly, the occasions you wouldn’t wear one. would be very helpful.


Peter Hall

Could you squeeze in ascots in the same piece,Simon?

Peter O

Ascots seem favored by German students at Heidelberg.

Peter Hall

I have a couple for autumn. Just for a splash of colour.

Chris K

Thanks Simon.

Amen! Truly, there’s no where else that facilitates such conversation. You don’t need me to tell you about the value of that!

Fantastic, I look forward to that one.



I’ve been waiting for this review for a little bit now. Glad it is finally here and it doesn’t appear they disappoint. As someone who lives in a very hot part of the U.S. (Texas), I’m wondering would you consider these for year round wear, or would they be more of a cool weather chino. I generally “run cold” (skinny arms and legs I guess), but I would like to know if these would be appropriate for a hot summer as well as our cool, mild winters. Thanks as always.



Two follow up questions:

1. Is there a similarly styled chino you would recommend for summer?

2. In US sizes I typically wear 32-33. Now obviously that varies based on the brand. I have in the past worn 31-34 based on the particular brand. Cheaper brands I generally wear a 32 while brands that fit more true to size I wear a 33. Would you have a guess based on how this brand fits?

Peter O

I’ve never been to the SW – Texas (where cowboy style is at home), NM, AR, but I thought it was too hot to exist without air conditioning?


Hi Simon, great review, and I really love this chinos series. Quick question, with all your passion and pursue for the right pair of chinos, do you have any plans to bring out your own design in the spirit of PS?


Simon, do you still prefer your old Armoury military chinos over these? If yes and the model is no longer offered (as you mentioned before, there have been several changes since), why not consider some kind of PS collaboration to effectively reissue that model? I am sure you will find good reception for it.


Relatedly, Simon, what do you think of The Armoury’s sport chino? I love ’em. A little slimmer than the army chino, and good pale/cold shades of beige and olive. Work well with tailored and casual ensembles.

Peter O

When you talk colour and colour difference, do you ever consider Pantone labels?

Peter O

I naively presume the colour dyes of cloth and clothes manufacturers fit Pantone system and identification.


Is the Armoury`s brown beige similar to the colour of the ones from Black Horse Lane?


Hi Simon,

Have really been enjoying this series of articles. Thank you.

I purchased a pair of the Armoury Army chinos based off your recommendation. I know they aren’t the same as yours but was curious if you tapered the ones you got? And if so, by what dimensions. I much prefer the way yours look but not sure if it was a tailoring choice or if the model changed that much.

Thanks again,


It’s a shame that most sizes appear to be sold out on their website. I was considering a trip to their store in Covent Garden to try a pair, but as they don’t have my size online I imagine the shop won’t have them either.


Ah, thanks for letting me know. I thought they might have closed, but wasn’t sure if it was due to COVID and that they had re-opened since shops were permitted to do so. Sackville Street’s a definite improvement over Covent Garden.


The new store, is that one opened yet? Im traveling to London in September and would love to see their goods live


Hi Simon,
You can count me in for the PS Donegal this year. I hope it’s going to be sufficient stock and not happen like The finest polo , they went really fast.


Thank you for another great review. Can you talk about sizing for these chinos? Per TRM’s website it seems like sizing up is appropriate.


I wear a size 32 in 45RPM and other of the rack pants/jeans but when I measure the waist on my pants they are closer to 35 inches. So unsure what size to take here.


Hi Simon – how would you look after these chinos? Is it a dry clean job or home washing and ironing?

Peter O

Dear Simon,

So left-hand means from left down to right, right-hand means from right down to left?

West Point is equivalent to Sandhurst, right? Any military
academy of U.S. government its students are to my knowledge not called officers, rather cadets. It is true West Point is to train future officers. If you refer to officers at West Point, you refer not to its students, but to that part of its faculty which have this rank.


I have these chinos in both the beige and brown. They are incredibly study and my default trousers for weekends on my hands and knees with my son. The sturdiness is also very comforting. They are very thick which, in the UK at least, extends use to mild winter days. Definitely not for hot weather, but that is when the linens come out. The beige is extremely versatile and definitely the capsule option. But I have found the browns to be great for getting messy and, in my experience, lighten quite substantially and with really distinctive fade marks from washing drying. The one caveat is that they do shrink hugely in the first couple of washes so if they fit perfectly out of the box then I would definitely recommend upsizing.


Yes I am tumble drying. Was that a mistake?

Ian A

Wow the athletic trainer debuts on Permanent Style!


I’m slightly surprised at the lack of comments on the trainers as well!
This is something I’ve been giving some thought to recently as during lockdown I’ve started walking much more (everywhere, and not purely for exercise; for example a nine mile round trip for dinner a few days ago), to the point where I feel the need for something more comfortable than Common Projects or Converse.
I’m loathe to go full-on modern sports trainer even with non-sportswear (lest I end up looking like an American tourist!) so had been considering the Nike Tailwind 79 but will have a look at the Challengers and Margaret Howell’s; just wondering if you’ve done any longer walks in the latter?


Simon, thanks for this. These look like the ones I’ve been after but can you comment on the weight? Is it like a 3 or 4 season? I live in UAE and overly heavy Chinos dont work well

Also, would love an article on the rise of trousers. I confess to not understanding it but know it makes an enormous difference


Hey Andrew, I’m also in the UAE. I’ve been struggling to find chinos that are tolerable for the climate. Luca Faloni has some lightweight options I’m considering. Not sure where these would fall on the smart/casual spectrum.


Thanks for a great series on chinos! One question regarding the sweatshirt. Do you normally take size M in knitwear? I think we are roughly the same size, and I am M in almost all knitwear. Was planning to order size 5 (like you), but Trunk writes that they highly recommend sizing up. What is your experience?


the colour and the cut of these is brilliant, but i really get put off by that double stitched seam on the outside of the leg (pocket downwards, im sure theres a term for it). prefer a cleaner ‘folded-over’ seam. its a peeve that i cannot explain.

Dr Peter

Great piece, Simon. I love the colour and the cut. I have quite a few vintage US Military Surplus trousers in both heavy wool and cotton, as well as wool/poly blends in USAF issue. I really like the high rise and snug, flat front fit around the waist and hips.
However, I would love to know the weight of the cloth used in these McCoy trousers. I am wondering how they might compare to the heaviest trousers put out by Bill’s Khakis here in the US. My favourite is the 10.2oz Bullard Field Pants, of which I have half a dozen in pleated and flat front models and in khaki, stone and olive drab. They wear like iron. The 15th anniversary Signature model and the Bremerton twills are also fine trousers. They are all made in the US. Are the McCoys made in the UK?


Hello Simon,
Thanks for a great article – I’ve enjoyed the whole series on chinos.
Have you had the chance to try on Berg & Berg’s chinos? They recently updated their flat front model to be slightly higher rise and wider in the thighs. I understand these are dressier than the Real McCoy’s featured here, but how would you consider the B&B ones as a slightly dressier option?


How do you think the B&B would compare to Rubato’s chinos that you reviewed previously in this article series? In terms of design as well as quality (although I appreciate it may be hard for you to say given you haven’t tried them).

For reference, these are the B&B chinos I am referring to, which I think are the most comparable ones:

Thanks Simon.


Of course, I understand that given you haven’t tried them. Apologies for creating such a long thread, but I thought it’d be interesting to hear what you mean by ‘quality’ in this regard. E.g. in your complete capsule article, you mention B&B in the ‘Level A’ category as a good make. What is it that makes you say Rubato would be at a higher quality than B&B?
For someone like myself, as a student with a rather limited budget, I try to find the items at the intersection of good quality and good value. What I mean by quality is mostly quality in the fabrics, which should mean that the item lasts longer. But I imagine that for you ‘quality’ may mean something else, with more focus on the finer details, for example.
I suppose this relates more to the discussion on quality/value you wrote on in the B&B article, so apologies for bringing up an old topic!


Doubtless the ubiquitous chino has a role in many a man’s wardrobe – Personally I wear my Officine Generale fisherman’s to walk my dogs and on the boat.
It also pays to have a good, well cut pair and these look to be those.
That said, as an item per se, I don’t think they do much to enhance any man’s appearance and the chino, plimsols and crew neck look does nothing to elevate the glum sartorial situation evident on our streets.
On a positive note, the V3 Donegal Coat looks great. I have the V1 and have never looked back !


I feel there’s a disconnect between these sorts of comments and the real world. If people where I live dressed in chinos, a crewneck and clean plimsolls as a matter of course, instead of chunky trainers, poorly fitting jeans/sweats and label-festooned t shirts then it would instantly elevate the area’s style

Nick Drake

Hi Simon, so your email arrived just now, I read your Real McCoy review, I thought yes, the ideal chinos. Straight to the website… SOLD OUT. Frustrating. Might they restock or is that the end of the story?


Hey Simon,

I’m 6’5” and so leg length is often an issue for me with off the rack trousers (I’m about 33 – 34 inch waist, but about 37 inch length). Do you have any advice for me on where I should look for chinos of this quality?


Robert M

Hi Richard, obviously it’s been a few months, but I just managed to try these Joe McCoy’s on and buy them in size 34. I’m almost 6’5″ myself and struggle to find long enough chinos, but these have plenty of length. You should give them a try.

Tommy Mack

Thanks Simon: another great review. I’ll definitely consider these: I’ve got several pairs of lightweight summer and midweight spring-autumn chinos and cotton trousers but a heavier pair for colder days is definitely a gap in my wardrobe.

I can understand why some people find chinos bland or dislike the association with US business-casualwear, certainly I’d never wear a baggy Dockers-style pair but a good, well-fitting pair are one of the most versatile pairs of trousers a man can own.


Iron Heart also make excellent chinos, very much in the same vein as yours from TRM. High-quality fabric, slim but not skinny cut and the classic light color that goes with everything. And the price…similarly high, but worth it if you appreciate the quality and plan to enjoy breaking them in over many wears.


Simon, do you take a 32 in RTW usually? Would you say they fit ‘true to size’? Thank you


If this was already discussed, I apologize (I’ve been scanning through the story), but I was curious what you thought about chinos and the often slightly wrinkled affair that they give off. Take for example the shot of your shoes and lower legs. I often try to pair chinos with nice shoes (and not sneakers), as well as button down shirts and cashmere sweaters. Sometimes I throw on a knit tie for the professorial look (that’s what I do). My chinos are always wrinkled after about an hour unless they’re the baggy kind that drape (I prefer a slightly slimmer look). What are your thoughts on this? Should I be concerned about getting something less wrinkle-prone or am I fussing over something I can relax more about?


Where do you consider Bills Chinos in the hierarchy of Chinos? It has been years since I’ve owned a pair and I believe that the company changed owners. Will you be doing a review of them?


Hi Simon, thank you for this interesting article. Please, let me ask you some questions:
1. Would you wear these chinos with boots, full brogue derbies or lofers (the last two in suede)?
2. I guess you wouldn’t wear these chinos with a jacket (even Neapolitan). But what about a shawl cardigan? What about a Valstarino or similar? Or perhaps these chinos are more appropriated to wear with overshirts or M-65 jackets?
3. Can you iron the crease in these chinos? Or you shouldn’t like you neither do with your chinos from Rubato?
Thank you for your help


On the issue of left v. right-handed twills. Is it possible to take one of the twills and cut it at 90 degrees to get the look of the opposite twill, but keep the performance? E.g. rotate a left-handed twill 90 degrees and cut and make the trousers with it pointed that way?
Similarly, is it possible to rotate twill 45 degrees (cut on the bias?) so that it runs up-down or left-right?
On another note, if one wants a high-rise chino that leans as smart as possible, which of the brands we’ve covered would best fulfill that?


Just to chime in, it would be a very quick purchase from me if you did go for this fabric in the end. The shade looks just right for casual wear.


Are you able to provide the detail on the cloth?


Hi Simon,
Very interesting article as usual,keen to find your opinion about Brycelands chinos.
Keep safe.


Simon, two questions on loopwheel sweatshirts, if i may:

1) Did you try The Real McCoy’s raglan loopwheel sweater ( I think it is a crewneck version of the milk hoodie you have from them. It’s much more boxy than the Merz one you wear here.

2) The Merz and Real McCoy’s loopwheels seem to have a low/wide neckline; do you find they work with your PS Oxford shirts?



Have you tried Iron Heart chinos? They too are a Japanese brand, but the rise looks to be abit higher, and they come in multiple cuts (slim to full leg, though the ‘slim’ looks to be equivalent to the Real McCoys ones.

Evatt Gibson

Probably the closest in style would be Ironheart’s IH-727-KA, seen here They have a medium rise and a slight taper. I’ve just heard that they’ve discontinued production but that a similar product in a heavier cotton is planned for next year. There are a few sizes left on their website.


McCoys are perpetually sold out of these chinos. Sort of frustrating.


I have just purchased a pair in olive/pale brown (same chino, they assure me). Do you wash these in a washing machine? At what temperature?
Also, the length is very long (requiring three fold overs- despite me being over 6 foot). In the picture you have only one turnover. Do they shrink significantly in leg length after first wash or do you have very long legs?
The quality certainly seems very high.
Many thanks.

William Gibson

I think you have identified RHT and LHT twill incorrectly in your pics and description. RHT moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right (in your pic its incorrectly labelled) and traditionally creates a more compact fabric. LHT is the reverse moves from bottom right to top left – this traditionally opens up the yarn making it softer handled.


Also, “As I said, dress cottons are left-hand”


Hi Simon,

Firstly, great site. I find your articles and guidance incredibly helpful.

I struggle with chinos as – after a long day at work – they lose shape and start to look like pyjamas.

My question is on chino weight.

Do you think a 10oz pair in 100% cotton would help? I’d go heavier but difficult to find in Asia especially when I need them to be relatively smart for work rather than workwear.



Hi Simon, do you think workwear chinos like this go with your PS Oxford shirt, or are the chinos too casual? And in terms of shoes, would these chinos pair with Alden’s LHS loafers in snuff suede?

I’m trying to work out what i would pair chinos like this with. Or rather than shirts/loafers, are these chinos strictly for more casual shoes/t-shirts/sweatshirts?

Can i ask when you might be posting a review of BHL’s chinos?



This fascination with Steve McQueen in menswear circles whom you reference above is bizarre. The man himself if you read a little about him was a complete slob in his own time, enjoying getting drunk on beers and watching endless television on the couch. Awful person as well by all accounts with many incidents of women beating and getting into brawls. Had deep mental issues. I can only imagine dying at 50 helped to create a personality cult of sorts around his persona. Now a whole plethora of brands cite his wearing some garment or the other, try to use his imagery if possible and generally get on the bandwagon.


Hello Simon,
May I ask why you prefer this pair over the Toys McCoys? It’s tempting to buy a pair that’s possible to try on before buying, whereas this pair seems to be online only for European customers.


Hi Simon,
These looks so good. Seems like a high quality pair too. I think american 50s clothing is some of the best, if not the best casual clothing. Always so sturdy and durable.
Putting chinos aside, what’s your take on ecru jeans? or even cream jeans? Where do they fit in the wardrobe?
I recently picked up a pair of ecru jeans from The Worker’s Club. I think they are pretty solid and I like the color and texture of them. Unfortunately my staple brown suede chelsea boots. They are brown with a grey-ish tone to them and I thought they would fit well but they really don’t.

So right now I’m in the market for a pair of new suede chelsea boots that go well with that ecru tone of a pair of jeans and I was wondering what your take is on ecru jeans and what kind of brown colors you would pair with them? I have a pair of really dark sneakers in chocolate brown suede that I think works alright but I feel that they are a bit too dark at times.

What medium or lighter colors on a pair of suede shoes would you pair with ecru jeans? You think a pair of light tobacco colored boots could work or would they be too colorful?

So tl:dr What is your take on ecru jeans and what colors would pair with them, be it in suede or any other material. A pair of pants is obviosly a big piece so whatever color they are will be a center point.

Best Regards,


Cheers! I’ll check that out. I actually spotted a really nice pair of chelseas in that mushroom color online, think I’m going to need to have a look at them in-store asap.


Dear Simon! Did you ever come across the chinos (or other items) from the New York label “3sixteen”? So far I have a couple of heavyweight pocket tees from them, which I really like. Their chinos look also very promising:
They are using a 12oz cotton from Kuroki Mills and the chinos also appear to have a reasonable rise.
Thank you!


Hi Simon, I’ve always admired these chinos but been deterred by the cost. I like the idea of the raw chino breaking in and improving over time much like raw denim. However how heavy and substantial are these? You say they are great every day chinos, would they be wearable for example for the type of weather we are having in London at the moment? I have a pair of heavy Momotaro chinos I got in Japan which have broken in really nicely but I would only wear them in colder weather. Thanks.


Hi Simon

I tend to have an issue with slimmer fits due to athletic thighs and a smaller waist. Would you recommend going a size up and having the waist tailored in with these seeing as they’re not wide legged?



I would strongly promote these chinos. They are immensely comfortable to wear, the make is excellent and the fabric is strong. All clothes I have bought from the Real McCoys have been an incredible joy to own and on the basis of longevity and joy to wear they are affordable. The real McCoy clothes often bring me as much or even more joy than many of my bespoke pieces because they are really really well made and have a great great style to them. They make me feel cool. You don’t have to be a certain type of person to wear work wear and enjoy it. The Real McCoys are really about quality and authenticity. My M-65 Field jacket is just an absolute jewel of a jacket and nobody knows what you are wearing (for me an indisputable benefit). For me they have also been very consistent in sizing which is a pain with Iron Heart for example (I have exchanged 70% of my jeans bought from them/ sometimes I am 33, sometimes 36). It has become for me a bit of cult brand but it’s on the basis of quality and wining my trust that clothes have been thought out and made well.


Hi Simon, i am very tempted by a pair of these coming into Autumn/Winter and was hoping for your thoughts on two style-related questions:

1) Would you wear these just with a tucked-in shirt, and a belt? I ask this as you mention the rise is a little low, so was wondering if you only wear your pair with a jumper over the top.

2) Also, related to the rise, do they work ok with your hoodies from Real McCoys (or other Japanese loopwheel sweaters), given that they are quite short in body length?

Many thanks


Thanks Simon, a great versatile option!


Hi Simon, I bought these chinos and am very happy with them; thanks for the recommendation.

Did you get yours shortened? And it looks like you have turned up the bottoms once, about 3 inch? Trying to work out whether I should get them shortened or not (I’ve washed them once and they are a touch too long).

Thanks again.


Hallo Simon,
have you seen the khaki one, too? Any thoughts on this particular shade of khaki? Is it worth having both colours, the beige and the khaki?
Thank you


You mentioned that this pair of chinos wouldn’t go with a grey sweatshirt. In my head, khaki chinos and grey sweatshirts are standard casual menswear neutrals, and moreover, I assumed that all neutrals would pair well together. Is there a reason why you wouldn’t recommend wearing them together?


Do you still find a pair of khaki chinos like this one the most versatile/useful shade of chinos? Do you think that it would be a good next purchase after a pair of raw denim jeans or would you point to another shade for chinos?


I just bought a pair of raw denim jeans after reading your weekend capsule wardrobe piece, and was wondering if this would be a good secondary pant option? The context of the wardrobe I’m trying to build out right now is a small set of casual items that are going to work in a lot of settings/outfits, much like your aim in the weekend wardrobe piece you wrote.


Just to confirm, the version you have and recommend is the “Beige” version of the chinos, correct? There is also another version available on their website called “O. Khaki”, which seems a lot darker in the photos. I just want to make sure I’m looking at the right pair. Thanks!

Riccardo Franchi

Along those lines, what do you think of the O. Khaki color? The overdyed khaki colour feels more casual if slightly less versatile than beige or taupe.
The reason for the question is that like most here I’m trying to ‘casualize’ the wardrobe a hair and am torn between Armoury’s olive sport chinos (a less casual cut I like in a more casual feeling color currently lacking), these in beige (great, but perhaps too much overlap with the more formal beige trousers/Armoury chinos I have) and these in O. Khaki. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.


Hi Simon – do you think these chinos are an alternative to ecru denim? If not, how do they differ and when might you use one rather than another?


Hi Simon
Trying to figure out how versatile these are. Can you pair them with wool crew necks (eg Colhays) as well as sweatshirts? Or are they limited to sweatshirts and other workwear on the top half?
If the latter, then would something like a selvedge cord be more versatile?


As part of this chino series, any way you’d consider reviewing the new Informale army chinos?
I think they look terrific. Sometimes I think a light beige flat-front chino is the most versatile pant a guy could own, working with everything from navy blazer to white t-shirt. These seem to fit the bill perfectly.


Ah interesting, I’m not as into the drawstring linen trousers as they just don’t seem useful enough to me. I’d only feel comfortable in those around the house. But I think Informale makes *great* cotton pants, including these Army chinos and also their older T107 fatigue pants. By the way, I see now that you’re warming up to wearing a belt with tailoring. My guess is your next move is wearing more chinos (well cut, higher rise, luxurious cotton) with tailoring, particularly when it’s a bit too warm for flannels. We’ll see.


Interesting. I own both the olive and chocolate fatigues. They look great with just a t-shirt, but I also love them with a PS oxford and sportcoat. Great high-low look, particularly because, while the fatigues have some obviously casual details, the cut is quite tailored and elegant.


Thinking about it more: It is a perennial problem that, when it comes to menswear, there is no spring/summer analogue to flannels. Frescos are too fine and sharp–they’re less charming than flannels. Linen trousers are too rumpled–they don’t hold their shape or drape as well as flannels. The closest one can get, I think, is a well-cut chino made from a heavyweight cotton that drapes, moves, and ages beautifully. More charming and full of character than frescos, but less messy than linen. That is the reason why guys should wear chinos with tailoring (particularly when it’s not flannel season).

Peter Hall

One of my favourite spring styles is wearing a green wool Teba with chinos , Bass loafer and PS Oxford.


Hi Simon, first time poster – thanks very much for such a comprehensive site!
I visited the The Real McCoys shop after your most recent article and really enjoyed it. I had a couple of questions on versatility / use of the Joe McCoys (which really were fantastic).

  1. In terms of footwear – I tried them on with a pair of boots which I definitely felt suited them, and trainers clearly also work. Do you think anything more formal would be hard to pull off?
  2. In terms of the versatility / colour choice – I naturally gravitated to the beige but ended up torn on the overdyed khaki. Assuming you do agree that more formal footwear would be tougher to pull off could you justify the darker khaki if you intended to have a lighter shade for more formal / less workwear trousers (e.g. rubato officer, stoffa basketweave, ecru denim)?

I’m going to join a number of comments already in speaking up for green, particularly its versatility. The thing about navy and grey is that neither really works for both dark denim and flannels. Green is good for both. Plus, it goes really nicely with cream (where navy would risk being too nautical and grey quite monochrome). And it’s also a natural partner for the typical chino colour (however that’s best referred to … light beige/stone/khaki?) In other words, green will pretty much cover the whole range of trousers.
In fact, for these reasons, I’d love a version of the PS cashmere rugby in green (dark, but perhaps a bit on the olive or muted side of racing green). I reckon that could make a strong bid for being the most versatile piece of knitwear in my wardrobe while also being more subtle and interesting than a navy crewneck. There, I’ve included “muted”, “subtle” and “interesting” – very Permanent Style 😉


Woops – had meant for this comment to be on the recent knitwear post but I had been looking at this one as well and wrote it in the wrong place!


Hi Simon,
Thanks for your thorough review of various chinos. I’m considering going for a pair but would like to have them altered and hemmed. Would you recommend washing them straight after buying and then having them altered?




Thanks. Just thought I’d follow up for the benefit of the readers that I popped into the Real McCoy’s shop today and they advised two cold washes (at 30 degrees) before making any alterations.


Hello. Now that you’ve had these chinos a while, how much shrinkage have you found on the waist?

I’m looking at size 34 due to sizing on Real McCoy website after one wash.

After initial waist shrinkage, if happened to you, are they starting to loosen off again? Thanks


For a cheaper but still quality alternative, may I suggest Asket’s new “heavy twill chinos”: heavy right-hand twill, straight leg, non-stretch. I have them in beige and it looks like a similar shade to these. Can’t comment on the aging of the cloth yet but they seem very promising. The rise is a bit low-ish but not terribly so. (Note that Asket also has a more mainstream stretch, slim-fit chino; this heavy twill one was introduced only last year.)

Another alternative for heavy non-stretch twill is Officine Générale’s fisherman chinos (available from Mr Porter) which I got in olive after reading a recommendation from another reader here.


Yes I will, it won’t be for a few months though – heavy twill is too warm for late spring and summer here in Italy.


Hello Simon. I’m looking at these as an alternative to my Jeans I own from The Armoury by Nigel Cabourn and The Real McCoy’s Lot .001XX. I know this is not your style and preference but I wanted to know your thoughts on the former. I intend to wear it simply in the hot and humid Indian summers as casual options, something I can just get into with my PS Tapered T-shirt and my Real McCoy’s Pocket Tee. After all my experience, findings and research, I don’t enjoy wearing chino’s that much (I do own a couple of them in Khaki colour from AE) and I do wear them with Polo Shirts in Indian summers. I really like these Pyjama trousers option as they have a very casual and relaxed vibe to them, that I like. I also like adding some colours to my trousers for summers as they are also available in colours red and yellow. As I mentioned I only intend to wear them with the above mentioned T-shirts and wear my jeans in other occasions and settings. I know they’re a tad unusual options for alternative trouser options to Jeans. Please let me know your thoughts on this one?


Worth mentioning here. I intend to pair it up with Doek’s


I have to say that, for me, the item that really elevates this look is the bandana (the coat is of course lovely too!). I am keen to give this look a try; not sure it will work, but the investment cost is small.

What should I be thinking of in terms of choosing a bandana, if I want it to be as understated as possible? I am assuming a non-offensive pale blue would be best (equivalent to a pale blue Oxford shirt), with some white running through it? I have seen you mention that something like a red bandana can give some pop, but I think as an entry-level bandana wearer that are more muted option is the best place to start. The next question is how to tie it? I suspect an item like this is in danger of not finishing the day in the same position as when the day started; is their a way to tie/arrange it to reduce this, and not drive the wearer mad all day?

In terms of where to buy, I see that 45R have a good range, so will give them a try. Is there anyone else (Real McCoys don’t list them on their website at the time of writing)? You mentioned you have bought from Adret in the past, but the lack of an online store makes research difficult.

I guess what I am really asking for is an article on wearing casual bandanas. Pretty please!?

Thank you Simon!


Hi Simon, just wondering if you are planning an article on bandanas?

Now the temperature is dropping I have been experimenting with one, but have had issues with tying it in such a way that I don’t have to keep rearranging it throughout the day. I do like the look though, especially as I have a long neck and do not always want to wear something with a collar.

Many thanks


Simon, for those like me who are on a waiting list for their size in these Joe McCoy chinos, I thought I would suggest the best alternative I’ve found. They’re Sid Mashburn’s Garment-dyed Field Chino in stone lightweight twill. I haven’t seen the Joe McCoys but I presume Sid’s are lighter in weight and not as well constructed. Still they’re quite nice and also cheaper ($175). Button fly, low to mid rise, fairly slim. I’ve now washed mine twice (cold water, hang dry), they didn’t shrink much in length and not at all otherwise, and to my mind didn’t need to be ironed. I wear the same size in these as I do in Sid’s excellent Five-pocket Slim Straight Pant, which I think is particularly nice in natural canvas. At least for readers in the US looking for decent slim workwear chinos with finished hems, this field chino is worth a try.


Simon, I think the Mashburn chino material is actually a right hand twill, which I gather is good. Not so good is what I realized about the fit when I was wearing this pant again today. I described it as low to mid rise but I’m not sure that’s accurate. At least in the rear, and perhaps because the fit changed a bit after a couple of washes, the rise is quite low and now certainly a bit too low for me. Which interestingly is the same problem you said you had with the McCoys chino. Anyway, today I found myself cinching my belt tighter and tighter in an only partially successful effort to solve the rise-in-back problem. I am going to see if the tailor at my local Mashburn store can come up with a better fix, but I wonder if he can do anything more than take them in at the waist. As I mentioned, I’m on a wait list for my size in the McCoys, and I’m also on the wait list at Rubato for a couple of colours of their smarter chino, but now I’m thinking I should just try the Rubatos. And wait for you to make the PS workwear chino, slim but with a proper rise!


Not sure if still wearing these Real McCoy chinos, however, worth an ask.

Did/ do you hand or machine wash and when did the shrinkage cease?


Mahmood Elahi

So how would these chinos do in hot summer months?

Mahmood Elahi

Thanks for the reply. Summer here is over 40 degrees Celsius!

Mahmood Elahi

Any recommendations for chinos without stretch on the casual side for hot summers?


Hello Simon. I just bought these as an alternative to chinos. I intend to style it with my navy/white PS and The Real McCoy’s Japanese tees. I was also looking at these & I really like the former but I’m absolutely unsure of the latter. I would style either of them with my olive fatigue trousers. I’m also looking at In terms of colour I think Bryceland’s is the most versatile and I can style it with my olive fatigue trousers as well. Due to the length of the Orslow shirts, they either have to be worn untucked or will come out during movements (on an hindsight both my denim jeans and this pair of trousers are high rise, hence I think they’ll stay tucked in). Let me know what are your thoughts on the above two Orslow chambray shirts?

Varun Saxena

Any plans to come up with PS chinos??


Simon can I jump on this thread a little late and ask about your sizing on these chinos? I’ve read elsewhere you’re a 33″ waist but note you’re wearing a 32 in these. When I check out the measurements on Real McCoy’s site they claim size 32 has a 32.3 inch waist after wash. Have you found this size tight on you? I’m a 32″ waist so try order a 31 if you’ve found the 32 comfortable on your waist.


Thanks Simon, your engagement with questions is much appreciated. I actually measure 31.5″ but I’ve found 32 in other Japanese brands I’ve worn is generally about right, so sounds like these will work out. FYI these chinos are still hard to track down in this size – I’m sourcing via Japan – possibly the long tail of your recommendation!


I really liked the lines in the picture of Simon above but had a similar concern about the level of shrinkage and ended up thinking that I would go for 34″ with a 33’ish waist. In the end, however, this was not even close to a problem. The key issue was the volume in the seat and the thighs which was huge! As a number of people above have stated, I had waited a while to get a pair but in the end I sent them back unwashed/unworn because the fit was so far off – but not through the waist.


Hi Simon, could I ask if the Margaret Howell+Mizuno trainers’ insoles are removable?

Many thanks,


I recently bought a pair of the Toy’s McCoy chinos which often get referenced during discussions about the Real McCoys so thought a few words on their differences might be helpful.

They’re generally slimmer – slimmer through the thigh and seat but the hem is a little wider 22.5cm – I think the hem seems wider still as the leg is slimmer and straight whereas the Real McCoys taper. The rise is higher, sitting on the hips or just above. The Real McCoys seem quite low to me.

Elsewhere there isn’t too much difference. the fabric seems very similar in terms of weight although the shade is slightly different and the construction appears to be about the same in terms of quality and design. Urea buttons etc. The beading around the pockets is slightly different – the Toys McCoy have a single but thicker bead on the coin pocket for instance.

The Real McCoys are harder to fit since they are unwashed and shrink during washing and the sizes on the size charts are not accurate. I ended up buying size 33 but I think probably a 32 would have been better. I put them on a hot wash and tumble dried them and they shrank quite a bit but I need to wear a belt with them.

The Toys McCoy are pre-washed so won’t shrink and are sized a bit more accurately. I fit a size 33 and they are perfect (for me).

Anyone under 6’2″ will probably need either pair taken up – both pairs have an 84-86 cm inseam which is double turn-up territory if you’re around 6′. I had both taken up to 78cm and I had the Toys McCoy taken in to 20cm. I usually prefer a hem of around 18cm but decided to be conservative so I didn’t alter the design too much.

Overall I prefer the Toys McCoy – after hemming and being taken in they are pretty much a perfect chino – for me. Slim, 5-button fly, mid to high rise, heavy right-hand twill, deep pocket bags and what seems like bullet-proof construction.

I also recently bought another pair of FOB Factory chinos – a new model called the “narrow US trouser”. Without any modifications my favourite chino of all time (so far). Fabric is as good as either of the McCoys, what they call “super weapon”, mid to high rise and a slim fit – 31cm thigh and the hem is around 19.5cm and luckily for me the inseam is 78cm which is exactly what I take.

Hope it’s helpful.


Mahmood Elahi

Simon will the waist on these chinos stretch like raw jeans?


I was searching for a more easily available alternative to those chinos and I stumbled across a relatively young brand that seems promising:
Simon, or fellow readers have you seen anything from them in person? The cut, the fabric and so on seems to check all the important boxes. Cheers


Thank you! About the sizing: would you still go with a 32? Or would you think about sizing up considering your latest preference for a more comfortable cut? Thanks


They arrived today and I am impressed. „Solid“ comes to my mind as a single word to describe them. I hope they lose 1 cm in the waist with the first wash. Otherwise the 32 is pretty perfect. I am really looking forward to how they will develop with time. Thank you for mentioning that the sheen goes away. That would have put me off otherwise.


Did you ever wash these chinos with 40 degrees, when it is needed because they are really dirty for example? I only washed them once with 30 degrees and there was no shrinkage in the waist that I noticed. First I would like them to shrink a bit in the waist, and second it seems odd not being able to wash something at 40 degrees when the product is ment to take a beating. I just don’t want to over-shrink them. Thank you!


Hi Simon, I have noticed the Merz B Schwanen‘s sweatshirt’s neckline band stretched out after a few washes. Have you noticed from yours as well?

Many thanks,