Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

February 16th 2024

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

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Great article. In most instances, instead of going lighter in cloth, go more breathable, a less dense weave. My personal bias is also to harder, dryer finishes. Newbies might be tempted by something soft but it can age b...

ClothFebruary 16th 2024

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

January 15th 2024

  This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

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It's at waist level, straight...

CoatsJanuary 15th 2024

What colour theory can teach you about clothing

January 10th 2024

by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...

What colour theory can teach you about clothing

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My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...

StyleJanuary 10th 2024

How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...

October 25th 2023

The main reason I wanted to bring designer Luke Walker onto our series of talks was his experience working at both fashion brands (Lanvin, McQueen) and classic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s). I love what he does at his own brand, LEJ, and we tal...

How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...

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What a breath of fresh air Luke is ... so many gems, anecdotes and wisdom (Oh ... and a dusting of luxuriant chest hair). Loved it all....

VideoOctober 25th 2023

Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat

October 4th 2023

About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a really stylish but understated,...

Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat

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Yes it is, the only size left (until an Autumn restock). How does it look inactive?...

CoatsOctober 4th 2023

Reader profile: Simon

February 27th 2023

Simon is only our second reader profile from outside the UK. He lives in New York, although when we talk on the phone he’s actually in Washington DC, having just landed on the red eye from Arizona. Simon travels a lot. He’s a journalist...

Reader profile: Simon

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This is the first time i have seen new balance sneakers be worn with grace and charm...

February 27th 2023

Day in, day out: On uniform dressing and travel

February 17th 2023

Charcoal trousers from a suit, with tweed jacket swapped in By Emilie Hawtin Developing a personal uniform is a common goal for those that are into clothing, I find. It has the twin benefits of being personal yet easy, distinctive yet versatile. Whe...

Day in, day out: On uniform dressing and travel

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Where in Florence do you find Velvet Fruilane Slippers, Simon? I love the idea of using them on multi surfaces....

StyleFebruary 17th 2023

Tobacco, black and white (some T-shirts in stock)

February 13th 2023

You know that feeling when you realise a new purchase unleashes potential in an old, beloved garment? Like getting a yellow oxford and realising it doesn’t just look good with jeans, but also with your favourite herringbone jacket? OK, I&rsquo...

Tobacco, black and white (some T-shirts in stock)

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Well, they certainly don't have to fit close - eg The Anthology ones are looser - and of course you can get bigger sizes of those two. Some knitted tees like those from Thom Sweeney also have less of a knitwear fit, more...

Casual clothingFebruary 13th 2023

Reader profile: David E

December 19th 2022

David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...

Reader profile: David E

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I see your point, but it also seems like you wear them in a very limited amount of occasions, or at least very limited for me as I don't go to church and I don't go to the opera that often, so it would leave me with the ...

StyleDecember 19th 2022

Luxury chore coats compared

December 16th 2022

By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...

Luxury chore coats compared

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Hey BC, Yes the Lazyman would work, though I found them a little short. This is an area we covered quite a lot last year - we did a piece here on all the options, and then covered Tebas, chores etc separately. There are ...

JacketsDecember 16th 2022

Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review 

December 9th 2022

This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...

Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review 

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Hey Leif, Interesting, thanks. I'm just surprised you would have that reaction, I've never heard it before. If it was a loud or boldly patterned scarf, sure, but not something in a fairly dark plain colour. My most worn ...

JacketsDecember 9th 2022

Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...

November 23rd 2022

In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...

Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...

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I don't, sorry James...

Casual clothing - JacketsNovember 23rd 2022

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

October 31st 2022

L’Impermeabile gilet, at John Simons £435 This lightly waxed gilet, particularly in the pale beige colour, is reminiscent of the Eddie Bauer style that has become popular in recent years. It’s 100% cotton on the outside though, whi...

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

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It looks OK Jake - a little short perhaps, a little plain, and I guess not the highest quality from J Crew, but probably a decent option. Hard to say much about fabric or shape just from images...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2022

A shopping guide to ready-made trousers

October 26th 2022

By Manish Puri If my years of reading Permanent Style have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look better than a tailored jacket. If my years of having eyes have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look w...

A shopping guide to ready-made trousers

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I find that cavalry twill is fairly cool for it's weight, but at higher weights it's still not a fabric for hot weather. In my experience it's not a very stiff fabric: my 560g cavalry twill trousers never felt uncomforta...

TrousersOctober 26th 2022

Reader profile: Shun

October 17th 2022

With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...

Reader profile: Shun

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Many thanks for this thoughtful and honest response Andrew, much appreciated!...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 17th 2022

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

August 5th 2022

Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly purple. But it’s still a...

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

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It depends on what and who is around you, but I think there is a risk eventually you might get known for them, at least if most other people just wear navy and black...

Socks and underwearAugust 5th 2022

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

May 9th 2022

This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

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Hey Jack, No, it's a rubber sole but a thinner one...

Coats - HatsMay 9th 2022

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

February 16th 2022

A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

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It's something I should probably write a full post about. But in brief, absolutely you can protect designs, and people do. The IP right is usually a design, copyright or trade mark though, not a patent. And absolutely mo...

ShoesFebruary 16th 2022

Reader profile: Daniel

February 14th 2022

Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...

Reader profile: Daniel

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I like that look as well. However, what colour are the trousers - dark navy, dark brown, dark green? Surprisingly difficult to tell from the photos....

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 14th 2022

Down parka from Nigel Cabourn: How great things age

January 14th 2022

  Over the winter, quite a few readers have asked what I wear for very cold weather. If it’s formal, the answer is a simple variation on the coats we’ve already featured: a heavyweight overcoat like my 30oz from Sartoria Ciardi ...

Down parka from Nigel Cabourn: How great things age

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I have seen it and it's well made. I haven't tried anything with a wool fill like that so I don't know about the warmth side. It's definitely smarter than something like the Cabourn - I wouldnt wear it in the same way...

Casual clothing - CoatsJanuary 14th 2022

The guide to Shetland sweaters: Part two, brands

December 15th 2021

By Manish Puri "In part one of this guide, we discussed the general styles and constructions of Shetland jumpers, which I hope helped provide context for which jumper is right for you and why. Now that you’ve eaten your metaphorical vegetables...

The guide to Shetland sweaters: Part two, brands

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I recently hit a Howlin Sweater 2ply in their galaxy colourway. Great fit in large for me being 6 feet 185lb and 40.5” chest. I much prefer a more relaxed feel with some room for slight shrinkage when washing. Last wee...

KnitwearDecember 15th 2021

Reader profile: Ben C

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben C

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Love the semi-casual....

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

How I wear a black leather jacket

December 3rd 2021

I’ve had this vintage leather jacket for about four years and it hasn’t been worn often - perhaps a handful of times a year. If I’m honest, it was because I felt a little self-conscious in it. I didn’t want to look like I wa...

How I wear a black leather jacket

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It would be a very strong/fashion look I think, and I wouldn't advise it no...

December 3rd 2021

Black tie among friends

October 22nd 2021

  By Tony Sylvester A couple of weekends ago, at the invitation of photographer Jamie Ferguson and writer Aleks Cvetkovic, a few friends got together for a weekend away in the Devonshire countryside. Obviously, social invitations and jaunts...

Black tie among friends

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I must say that is a bold look, sounds like it made an impression though, so well done to that individual....

Black tieOctober 22nd 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

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Hello Paul. I don’t know how easy it is to physically see C&J in Geneva so here is a close up of their rough out suede leather in brown if that helps, as sometimes official website pictures are met that helpful. I ...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021