How I learned to love shorts
By André Larnyoh.
Recently I’ve been pining for the summer of 2022. Remember that one? Temperatures got to around 40 degrees and everyone was encouraged to stay indoors - something I did not do because Tooting Lido was just too inviting.
I remember wondering what to wear, less from a style point of view and more just to avoid being either naked or suffocating the moment I stepped outside. Eventually I settled on a terry-cloth polo from Fursac, a pair of vintage Polo shorts and a baseball cap - which was unusual for me. Caps make me feel like Short Round from Indiana Jones (below).
However more than the cap, it was the shorts that were jarring. For the longest time I’ve just been uncomfortable in them. They make me feel vulnerable - exposed like a gazelle on the savanna. Self-conscious of my scrawny legs and ashy knees.
Fran Lebowitz was asked a few years ago whether men should wear shorts in the city and her basic response was ‘no’ (though of course in that roundabout, cutting way of hers).
At the time I agreed - why go for shorts when wide-legged trousers in a breezy linen or cotton work just as well? When I came across people in shorts, even those I consider good dressers, I’d internally shake my head. Is that really the best you could do?
In my mind shorts were meant for beach holidays, intense workouts and Just William. No one wants to see them on the Tube. I regularly go to Ghana to see family, and I could count on a closed fist the number of times I’ve packed a pair of shorts.
Fast forward to 2024 though and I’m now the proud owner of not one but two pairs that I love. So what changed, what prompted such a rejection of Lebowitz?
Mostly it was trying them again - being open-minded and comfortable with my own insecurities. As soon as I found some that appealed to me, that fit with the way I dress and make me feel good about my legs, it was straightforward. In fact good about myself as a whole, because, as I said earlier, shorts are profoundly exposing.
This where women, once again, have us beat - both in terms of options available (flowy skirts, bigger trousers, sleeveless garments) and at least for women I know, a higher level of confidence and ownership of their bodies.
I’ve always been slight of frame, but growing up I was just plain scrawny, so trousers were the best way to hide my chicken legs. Part of what led to my eventual comfort in shorts was realising there are people out there - especially in cities like London - walking around with all manner of legs. Toned, pink, hairy or ashier than Vesuvius, they’re all wearing shorts and 90% of them do not care. There's freedom in that.
This gradual acceptance of shorts has been a journey of self confidence, as well as a fashion one. However, most readers are probably more interested in the latter, so let's get back to that.
The first pair that got me going was the aforementioned 90s Polo ones. They’re basically a modification of a double-pleated chino they used to make and of which I own a few pairs - so when I discovered a short version on eBay for the low low price of £30, it felt like providence.
(Unfortunately I can’t find anything similar from the current collection, aside from maybe a few options in Purple Label, but if readers have any recommendations please do chip in.)
In a sense I already knew how these vintage ones would fit and how they would wear. That photo above is the first actual time I ever left the house in a pair of shorts.
I found they sat easily with pretty much everything, particularly the simplicity of worn-in Belgians and a roomy, untucked white oxford. My ever reliable quick-release shirt from LEJ (pictured with the shorts above) also proved to be a game changing combination on particularly balmy days, where ventilation was a priority.
A major part of the appeal of these two pairs over other shorts I’ve seen out and about are the fact that they’re pleated. I’m not really fussed about inseam lengths as long there is sufficient volume and width.
The second pair, and the ones I currently love most dearly, are ghurka shorts from Brycelands. Based on a 1940s British Army pair, they’re quite unusual - longer than most, higher in the rise, wide in the thigh and drawing yet more attention with the self-belting waist and its brass buckles.
However, in black I’ve found they’re subtler than other colours, and you can roll up the hems for a bit more shape. Also, despite what people tell me about black absorbing heat rays, I’ve always worn it in the summer with no ill effects.
I wear these shorts with quite a wide range of things too, though I wouldn’t tuck in anything that wasn’t a T-shirt - it’s too much. Untucked shirts fall nicely over the waistband, obscuring that complex-looking waist. And my black-linen smock from AWMS makes for a very minimalist pairing, something of a summer default for me now: simple, roomy and full of natural ease.
One thing I would have always thought would be off limits with shorts would be tailoring - verboten.
But recently, feeling rather bold, I broke that rule. Taking a page out of artist Peter Beard’s book I wore the ghurka shorts with a black tee and a well-worn linen/silk tweed jacket from Drake’s.
I really hadn’t anticipated how flatteringly relaxed the whole thing would be. And for me at least, rather versatile. Versatility is the last thing I expected from shorts, but it just goes to show how important the right pair is.
It also goes to show, in a wider sense, how important it is to keep an open mind about things that you might’ve written off previously. Not everything will feel comfortable straight away, but there’s something to be said for returning to something as we change - you might find that it wasn’t so bad after all, and there's a way to make it work for you.
Shorts still aren’t the first thing I reach for when the temperature goes over 20 degrees - I still rely heavily on those loose trousers, and Fran’s voice is still somewhere in the back of my mind. But I’m much more emboldened to show off my thighs and calves.
I just always need a little tube of moisturiser with me, for the knees.
It will take an awful lot to make me wear shorts. I probably last wore them in Canada in the Summer of 1988 when the temperature was 33C and the humidity sky high.
I just don’t like them.
I most certainly would not be seen “in a fit” wearing them in London and in Mayfair would be anathema.
Probably smart fresco or linen trousers in London, for instance.
GOOD MORNING LINDSAY..the choose is yours..you don’t like them don’t wear them….me?? I am a big fan of wearing shorts..why?? It’s summer time!!!! Enjoy your day and week..cheers and much peace
At least you don’t have to suffer the indignity of walking around with pasty while legs for the first half of summer…
As for Fran Lebowitz telling men not to wear shorts, who cares? Are there any women who care if some old codger thinks they shouldn’t wear trousers?
There are certainly women who care what male fashion designers think
A single female friend, in her 50s, uses those dating apps. The first date is, of course, always in a public place, generally for a drink after work. She has great fun texting me during those first dates, with her impressions of the courtesan. The dealbreaker is always when the guy shows up in shorts (she lives in a city, not a beach resort). Like most women she works hard to look smart on dates, then the guy shows up in shorts…one drink, date over. So yes…women do notice, and they do care.
Roughly on that theme, it’s always unfortunate to see a young couple out on the town, likely on a first date or early into a relationship, where the woman is nicely dressed and the man is way too casually dressed and thus looking completely out of sync with his date.
Absolutely. Interestingly, I often find that the woman doesn’t mind the man be a bit more casual – but the problem often is (when I have spoken to people about it) that the man doesn’t really know what sits between a T-shirt and a suit. It’s often lack of education/awareness as to elegant casual options
Yes, I sense also that there are far too many young men that fear that dressing up will make them look effete, too clothing conscious, and that the manly thing to do is dress down. This gets into a long, long discussion of cultural and social trends and thornier issues I’ll leave alone here. The solution meanwhile, without opening a Pandora’s Box, is to coax such men into understanding that, no, elegant casual dressing (as you rightly characterize it) can demonstrate a very masculine confidence.
This has changed in Madrid. The 15-20 boys wear chinos and rolled up linen shirts. They want to be different from the style of footballers namely distressed denim, sneakers and tattoos.
Nice!
I see that a lot… across the board the man is more casually dressed, but also more sloppily dressed… As in, not only jeans and a T shirt but also the jeans too long, puddling over a pair of dirty trainers.
While I see the point of your friend in regards to dress, if she is texting during the date that would also be a one and over for me… I might even cut it short.
Women do care indeed, they do notice, and they don’t care for men in shorts. If a man shows up in shorts for a date that’s the last date! I know married women who cringe when their husbands insist on wearing shorts when they’re out together. Unfortunately men are often stubborn creatures, particularly when it comes to the subject of shorts. So I’d suggest that it’s best to leave the shorts in the drawer when in the city. The women will appreciate the gesture and men will be better off, everyone wins.
“Courtesan”?
Firstly, great article – the first I have read here mentioning Fran Lebowitz !!!
I do think tailored shorts work with a jacket – the shorts or jacket need to be plain… both being patterned doesn’t work imho…
These outfits are just terrific. Personally I’m very happy wearing shorts in my London suburb, but wouldn’t ever wear them in central London. But then I can’t imagine wearing trainers in central London either, just my preference. Love the looks here, thanks Andre
Wearing shorts in city centres, especially in London, is best suited to younger men with strong legs. In my area, most men wear chino shorts with t-shirts or polo shirts. Linen and seersucker shorts seem to in fashion around St James’s and Mayfair. New & Lingwood, Ede & Ravenscroft, Oliver Brown and even Cordings stocked them this summer. I agree that Bryceland’s ghurka shorts are very long. Rather than turn them up, would they look better shortened?
I love turning up my shorts. Especially when worn with tailoring. In my mind it makes them read as slightly more deliberate and formal. This may only be in my mind…
I shortened mine a tad and they look great. Gotta be careful though because the front/back rise are monstrous and the waistband is quite large, so you can’t take a lot of fabric or else you’ll risk throwing off the balance.
Good morning from ny..congratulations to you on wearing shorts..you have 2 push it up 2 at least 5…I know London has numerous dept. Stores..summer clearance prices will drop…..what tops 2 wear polos..short sleeve shirts..I don’t see the purpose of wearing a long sleeve dress shirt and rolling up the sleeves..have fun wearing shorts..it’s summer time..BRAVO 2 you and keep going..cheers and much peace
The roll-up may not be practical, but it is fun.
If it is fun for you..ENJOY!!! have a wonderful weekend..cheers and much peace..
Honestly I just have an aversion to short sleeved shirts that aren’t tees, I feel like a child. I much prefer to just roll, I like how it looks.
Fair point…ENJOY!!!!!
I’d wear nothing but shorts if the temperature in my part of the UK was kind enough to let me. As you say Andre, they are freedom!
Good morning Nik…..you are right..wearing shorts is freedom..YES!!!!
I’m not convinced. Yes, I do wear shorts, but they’re not an aesthetically pleasing item.
As long as there is functionnality and a sense of style, no piece of clothing should be deemed ridiculous.
I cannot seem to wear shorts when I am not on holidays though, simply because they are the embodiment of it in my mind.
Dressier shorts (plys, ghurkas…) in the city feel much more fashion, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Why refuse the fun part of clothing ?
I also love to wear vintage tennis with messy mid-calf cotton socks matching the shorts colour for a very old school sports allure.
You look very nice and confident in these. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Hi André, Personally I have no problem with shorts, especially when walking on the numerous ‘common’s’ (you mentioned Tooting and for me it’s Wandsworth). A smartish pair is cool (physically and stylishly) around town. If the temperature is above 30 why would one not. Just recommend staying away from those tight through the leg style that one sees about and of course the dubious running shorts from the 80s!
The baggy ones look good on you but I do prefer the polo style and again only personally I’d ditch the that quick release thing and go for a cotton oxford or a pole in pique or knit. Although for balance I prefer a long sleeve..
Just for info and whilst not at a price point not normally associated with PS, I’d recommend the cotton/linen mix from Uniqlo at £24.90. The styling is fairly loose through the leg, with the cotton taking down the roughness of the linen and lessens the annoying sharp creasing associated with pure linen.
All the best.
My neighbour loves Uniqlo’s cotton/linen shorts, trousers and shirts. He says that they are very comfortable and still great value. The brand now seems to be targeting youth market and focusing more on polyester blends and synthetic materials. The new website is awful – poor design and very difficult to navigate.
Hi Kent, I agree with all your points, especially on the new website
I also have one of their linen shirts which is about 4 years old and has aged very well Their sweatshirts and hoodies (cotton ones) in my opinion look good and are excellent value.
Sometimes the odd other nice item pops as well. As you say, just wish they would stay away from so much synthetic.
Two holidays in Italy in the last couple of years persuaded me that at least when I’m abroad I should wear shorts when appropriate. I mentioned that to my wife, and within minutes she’d ordered two pairs of the Uniqlo cotton/linen shorts. I’ve tried them out over the three warmish days we’ve had in Leeds this year and am now looking forward to next year’s holidays.
Love that black linen smock, and thank you for putting me onto AWMS! I hadn’t heard of them before, but always good to find a brand doing interesting designs affordably.
Like the watch, too. Any chance you could share where it’s from?
The tailoring + shorts thing I’m still not sure on… I’ve seen a lot of fashion guys doing it on Instagram.
Regardless of whether or not it looks good (and I do think it looks good on you), for me, it doesn’t quite pass the test of “do I look like I’ve put this on without having to think too hard”.
I’ve come to realise that’s really key to whether I feel comfortable in an outfit or not.
I don’t wear tailoring very often, so I imagine a blazer feels like a more natural thing for you to reach to, Andre.
Even still, it just feels a bit too contrived? Again, though, I imagine if you’re heavily involved in the menswear world rather than just having a casual interest, things feeling a bit contrived is less of an issue.
The watch is a vintage one from a maker called Gruen
thoughts about the stoffa shorts? and any alternatives to them?
https://stoffa.co/collections/all-clothing/products/ivory-basketweave-cotton-single-pleat-short-22-04?variant=gid%3A%2F%2Fshopify%2FProductVariant%2F40861974757487&option1=48&option2=Unfinished
I agree with Derek Guy that the trick is that the shorts are neither too long nor too skinny. They have to be wide and short, then the silhouette is interesting enough to work. I have started wearing shorts sometimes and while I do prefer wide linen trousers, shorts can be fine. I wore it to a festival last weekend with heavy boots and ringspun shirts with a Panama hat in a explorer-vibey kinda way.
A big disadvantage of shorts that I haven’t seen mentioned yet is being sensitive to the sun or not liking sunscreen. Then trousers are obviously the better choice.
Oh this wasn’t supposed to go here, but whatever.
On the Stoffas: they do exactly what I think is right. Wide and short. Obviously very expensive but very nice.
yea hard to find alternatives to the stoffa shorts, they are really nice
The Polo Ralph Lauren shorts from about 15 years ago were very good. I would recommend the Willis, Bleeker St, Prospect fits.
Unfortunately the quality has dipped, prices increased and stretch has been added in recent years.
Ebay is a great place to find some of the older model relatively cheap
Spot on. This summer, Polo Ralph Lauren has even added “stretch” (marketing speak for 10% elastane) to poplin button-down shirts. At that price level, Drake’s shirt bundle offer is the best value around.
Ebay is definitely great place to find PRL stuff at very low prices but TK Maxx also has old stock at around 60-70% off. There were lots of bargains, at least 50% off, in summer sales too. I buy cheap PRL for beach holidays and leave my best summer clothes at home.
With hairy legs is a no go on my side, no matter how hot the weather is in town…
I’d say keep an open mind Eric, if only because I know guys who don’t wear them because they think their legs aren’t hairy enough!
Another reason I avoided them for so long: shame for my hairless legs.
Terrific article Andre, Thankyou for sharing your style insights, your look is so cool in blending tailoring and quality with a modern vibe, in previous articles I’ve always admired the comfortable look you obtain from the looser fit and drape. I’m from Australia and shorts are essential in the warmer months when out and about in the daytime casually, in fact people who wear pants/trousers mid summer look unusual and can sometimes attract comments about looking uncomfortable! Your tip on getting the right pair is the key
I was hoping someone from Down Under would comment. Unfortunately here in Brisbane you need shorts to step out of the air conditioning successfully for at least six or seven months of the year, it’s going to be 32 degrees here next week in the last week of winter. Always appreciate it when articles about dressing smartly for warmer climates pop up on PS, thanks Andre.
DAVID..STAY COOL
This is an excellent article André, I always enjoy reading your work here. You bring a great voice to this blog and I always enjoy your angle of “discovery” that isn’t as much in Simon’s work.
If I may suggest, it might be more fitting for the article if it was mentioned somewhere that you work for Brycelands, given that you mention one of their products here.
Lovely stuff, Andrè. Where are those great sandals from?
Ludwig Reiter!
Hi,
This was a great article and a way of pragmatically keeping up with the modern/casual ways of dressing well. I really agree with the sentiment that for many garments, it is mostly a matter of finding the right piece. I have had many no-no’s which have slowly made their way into my permanent rotation.
I think all of these pics echo the (menswear-canon) pictures of Giorgio Armani wearing all-navy outfits with long, pleated shorts. It’s a great look!
I’m a big fan of cotton/linen trousers when the temperature climbs over 72F. But in my area, temps reach 100F and very high humidity. You can’t function in the summer without shorts.
A simple pair of navy or white shorts matched to a nice short sleeve linen shirt or polo works great. Loafers or boat shoes complete the look. It’s the daily uniform.
Giorgio Armani looks great in a similar look. Get a good tan, stay reasonably trim, and be comfortable.
FWIW, most wardrobe recommendations are geared towards the cooler Northeast US (Ivy) or UK. But sometimes, you are in a climate that just demands shorts.
The two pairs of formal shorts I have are both from Scott Fraser. Navy and white. Have worn them every summer since 2019 and they show very little sign of wear and go with absolutely everything. Love them!
All right, I’ll bite… “Just William” series… author Richmal Crompton… any relation, Simon?
Ha! Thought someone would. No, despite being one of the very few Cromptons anyone’s ever heard of, no relation
Don’t forget a Crompton invented the loom!
Well, an innovation in looms right? Yes, that’s our northern heritage and they are generally reckoned to be ancestors
true – i’m sure the ancient egyptians would take umbrage at a northerner taking full credit.
wikipedia is a rabbit hole here – seems there were a few around that time, including the Samuel, the inventor of the spinning mule.
Indeed. I think Samuel’s the one that actually came up in the family research years ago
As I’ve aged,I seem to have gone in the opposite direction. I used to wear ghurka shorts regularly, but now in long cotton trousers with(usually) an oxford.
Shorts relegated to pool or beach. In part, it’s because my legs resolutely refuse to tan to the same shade as my arms and face.
Your arms and especially your face are closer to the sun, which is why they tan sooner and better.
I meant that as a joke, but know it begins to make sense 🙂
I think its interesting to see the adoption of military inspired shorts such as the Ghurka. While I find that style of waist fastening a little too fussy or unusual for my tastes the proportions, pleats and general silhouette are both stylish and practical, not to mention supremely comfortable.
Loose and billowy need not look sloppy.
The rule I’ve settled on for myself is that I will either wear shorts or a t-shirt but not both together unless I’m going to the gym or out for a run. Otherwise, I feel like I am in danger of looking like a superannuated version of my 5 year old son. So it’s either a t-shirt and light chinos or shorts and a shirt or polo, either of which feels like a more adult option than a straight-forward shorts and tee look.
I have one t-shirt that fits really well and looks good with shorts. But that is a men’s style unicorn.
Same here Peter, which is why I showed it. But I hear you Matt.
I like your take on this Matt. I think I inadvertently do the same.
I’ll be wearing shorts later today,when I’m out cutting the grass. But, I no longer wear shorts away from home. After decades of bumping into hard objects, my shins are so scarred than I just don’t show them in public (I bumped into something and drew blood just last night). For summer, I have three pairs of linen/cotton blend pants (navy,sky blue, and white). A polo and a sun hat, and I’m ready to go.
https://i.iheart.com/v3/re/new_assets/5f45137e47d2fa0e832fd48e?ops=maxcontain(768,432),quality(80)
The style leader with this concept!
Anyone but him…
I find Andre’s thinking here very interesting, and am curious how much his hesitancy to don shorts is personal vs a a greater Anglo/American divide on the subject. It’s a given that American men will wear shorts from May to October, pretty much any place. In my Rust Belt hometown, shorts—usually of the knee-grazing, mesh basketball variety—were worn year-round, and just paired to hooded sweatshirts once the temperature fell. It’s a look that’s even become a uniform of sorts for John Fetterman, the lightning-rod senator currently representing my home state of Pennsylvania, whose dress sense led to a bill explicitly banning shorts from the Senate floor.
Btw—Ralph Lauren brought back the double-pleated short this season as an excellent model called the Cormac, which I bought two of (good enough to have a spare!) and am wearing right now. It seems to be sold out online, unfortunately.
https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clothing-shorts/5-inch-cormac-relaxed-fit-pleated-short/639639.html
I don’t think shorts are a good look on anyone over the age of 20 (completely arbitrary cutoff). Man or woman. Shorts in my opinion are just active wear – appropriate at the beach, hiking, the gym, or on the tennis court. I live in a warmer climate and the summers are very long, very hot, and humid. And when I go out and want to look smarter, I put on a pair of very wide, billowy, lightweight cotton/linen pants. Very comfortable. In fact they feel like pajama bottoms.
I very much appreciate this type of article. Even if the subject matter is not my personal style, which it isn’t, it’s important to me to see a wide variety of looks. Also, the element of personal journey is important. If you are comfortable in your choice of attire, odds are you will look good in it.
Nice points Tom
A thought-provoking article. I must admit I am not quite there yet, although the ‘Easy’ shorts I bought earlier this summer from Original Fibres might persuade me.
Incidentally, Tom Ford said it before Fran Leibowitz:
https://www.anothermag.com/exclusives/tom-ford
I’m realising that Tom Ford said it first… but I prefer Fran Lebowitz. Much more interesting to listen to and less self involved.
I like the ensemble with the LEJ shirt best. I want to like jacket with shorts, but I find it difficult to imagine doing it myself – if it’s hot enough that I’m uncomfortable in trousers, I’m not going to be wearing a jacket
Fascinating. Still can’t transcend my Aussie upbringing that shorts are for children. 😎
I think that the key is to mix shorts with long sleeves on top. Its chic and flatering. Otherwise (shorts paired with short sleeves top) can look a little infant.
And of course, always with invisible socks.
Dan.
No socks whatsoever!
Yes, indeed!
Even for the most casual of outfits, shorts with a clean, well-fitting long sleeve T-shirt looks great.
Simon there are some pretty basic points being overlooked here.
In no particular order;
Are your legs short/long/thin/chunky?
Are you slimish or otherwise?
What will you be wearing your shorts with?
Then, you should consider;
Height relative to your knees
Leg opening
Once you’ve answered these basics, you can start to work out a style of short that will actually suit you, rather than make you look somewhat of a misfit.
Thank you Aimee. This is one person’s experience, not a how-to guide, but yes if we do more of a universal guide like that at some point these are great points to include.
Agree these are critical items. No fault to Andre, I definitely enjoyed the article.
A guide on shorts would be cool, probably very popular too, maybe even contentious haha.
Being tall with slim-ish legs but dad-bod torso, personally I opt for wide-ish leg (definitely not slim or it clashes with top’s silhouette) with relatively short hem (5″, to show off what my papa gave me) and a high rise in case I want to half / full tuck.
Full tuck is nice when you want to wear a overshirt, as it sets up the proportions of the body that I like (longer legs, shorter torso).
I had a similar journey. I work in the public service in New Zealand and the tipping point for me was a stifling office and finding out my post-ww2 predecessors had carried out industrial action to get the right to wear them. It became a personal style challenge to try and work them into the (then) formal office uniform. Because of the office context I almost always wear them with formal/structured elements, as I needed the overall outfit to be formal enough to balance the informal element of the shorts. As a result I’ve also favored pleated pressed shorts (I have three vintage polo pairs waiting at a freight forwarding inbox in the US for me right now – summer is coming!!).
Shorts are necessary in countries where summer lasts 5-6 months but these looks don’t look very masculine to me. I really like the jacket though.
Totally agree on shorts being a requirement in hotter locales. Do you mind me asking what you consider more masculine examples of shorts?
Thanks!
I’d also be curious as to what a more “masculine” look would be in your eyes Georgios. Tom Selleck loved him some short shorts and last I checked he was pretty masculine.
I checked the photos on my computer cause i use an iphone se and everything is small and dark and i dont find the shorts bad at all, its more the execution thats not so masculine to me. I am from Greece were one can wear shorts for 5-6 months and no one wears shorts with such shoes or tops. If it is too warm one wears shorts with a t-shirt or at most with a short armed shirt, not a blazer otherwise he would wear a linen pair of trousers. No offence, i am a big fan of your clothes and styles and also have the c.Jones black loafers you have but that summer style is not my style i think.
PS: Selleck also wears his shirts with 2-3 buttons unbutoned but he is 1,95 and has very wide shoulders from good genes, for him everything every combination is masculine. Imagine someone 1,70cm 65kg with a mustache, an open shirt, glasses and dressy shorts. Hipster association at best, gaysian at worst.
Georgios, let’s try and avoid the generalisations and stereotypes at the end there please. Thanks
Thanks Andre
I also have dark skin and very skinny lower legs, where dry skin gives an ashen look. I too have gone with moisturiser.
Some other things that help and confer more athletic, masculine shape
1. Shorter shorts – 5-7inch
2. Wear socks +/- canvas tennis shoes. I find this makes the calves look much bigger
What are your thoughts
You get me on the ashy front. It’s not a good look. I’d agree on the shorter shorts point, but that requires a level of bravery that I’m still not ready for.
Canvas trainers fine, socks and shorts I draw a hard line.
I’m have to agree – I’m even darker skinned than you Andre so the thought of wearing socks with shorts horrifies me! The contrast would be just too much and it’s also key is to keep ones legs fully moisturised as the ashy look is never the way to go.
I’m in my late 40s and have never felt comfortable wearing shorts but over this summer I’ve really been enjoying some LP Summer Walk and B&D Sagan loafers with a more open legged short that ends slightly above the knee with a couple of nice collarless/granddad linen shirts in mostly dark colours (black, dark brown and navy blue); I’ve worn that combo in both central Vienna and central London and felt very glad I did given the temperatures at the time over 32 deg C; I even received a couple of compliments from random women regarding the look (so I don’t agree with the earlier assertion that women find a grown man in shorts a turn-off, as others have said)!
Maybe some on here wouldn’t agree but I’m wondering if height/physique has an effect on who can pull off this look properly in an urban environment?
I wear shorts when I mow the lawn. But if I were Andre’s age and my legs hadn’t lost what little hair they once had I’d wear them more often.
Seriously — I had a longtime friend in New York who was in the investment business. He wore shorts on hot summer weekends when we’d have brunch in the city, up through his age 70s years and beyond. He always looked crisp and dapper.
Frankly, I never thought about it one way or the other. That was before my style awakening and in those days I couldn’t imagine why anyone would car what anybody else wore. Now I’m a little less cavalier on that topic.
I currently have two Nantucket Reds shorts in two different sizes. My weight fluctuates. I used to have a linen creme colored pair of shorts. I wear shorts only if necessary for extreme heat.
I would not wear shorts to the city, but for daily chores in my neighborhood (shopping and the line), at home or to relaxed beach clubs / breakfasts in the neighborhood, traveling in hot temperatures.
I really like the PS shorts. They are a good compromise between casual and elegant.
Where’s the black T-shirt from? Texture looks good.
Old John Simons. It’s been worn and washed for years now.
Hi, André.
Good article – I’ve always worn shorts in the summer, both at home in London or in the country, and of course whenever I’m anywhere near the sea or a boat!
I’ve always preferred traditional styles like the double-pleated chino ones from Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers. I’m pretty sure Brooks Brothers still offer them, although you may need to go to the US website as the UK/international ones don’t have anything like the full/proper Brooks Brothers product range (annoyingly!).
Hope that’s useful …
Jonathan
A short manifesto (sorry, couldn’t resist):
I wore shorts daily as a lad (only in summer as they were forbidden at my Catholic school) but at a certain point I proudly graduated to big-boy trousers and have never looked back. I still wear shorts at the sea, in the mountains and otherwise on vacation–and truth be told, often on my terrace at home. But in public in the city, never. To my eye they make men look like boys. Women today don’t dress like schoolgirls; why do grown men want to look like they’re in search of a missing Lego piece while ordering a gin-tonic at a smart bar?
Given how many men now wear shorts year-round, it can’t be strictly about comfort–frankly even in summer. Here in Rome in August, I never feel like my knees are in danger of overheating to the point of stroke; it’s not like a tight collar. To me, the minor comfort gain on a very hot day isn’t worth looking like a man-child. But people are different.
The pictures in this post are nice, and the shorts are smart. But the combination with a tweed jacket indicates, as if we needed any more proof after recent Paris and Milan runway shows, that shorts on grown men no longer signify summer comfort but have become a full-on fashion statement. That’s fine in context, but no more of interest to me (or I’d wager most smarty dressed men) than whatever Harry Styles is wearing from Gucci on the next red carpet.
Nice pun Michael.
To your point, these looks aren’t for everyone. Shorts have an image in the social conscious that harkens back to school days, it’s probably part of what put me off for so long. Is it fashion-y to be wearing shorts with tailoring? Yes and no. We’ve been seeing it on the runways, and have done so for the past 10 years or so (Thom Browne swears by it). However there is my example of Peter Beard from the 60’s/70’s. So it’s not really anything new we’re dealing with here, it’s just personal taste.
Also, I take it you’ve never had to take small children to a restaurant before. You end up finding Lego in the strangest places.
Andre, the outfits work well here, most especially the black shorts and black T paired with the tweed jacket; the black tones bring the eye from head to toe nicely, without break at the waist, while the jacket offers some contrast.
However, using Peter Beard as a defense doesn’t work in my opinion. He was of course a very handsome man and ideally built. Thus, he looked good in anything. Few of us are Peter Beards, though I like to “kid myself that I look smooth”, as the old song lyric goes.
In any event, good article, and an interesting topic, very much worth discussion in our (sadly) fashion free-for-all world.
Well said sir and thank you! Your comments are fantastic and put the shorts on grown men issue in proper perspective. With your permission, I’d like to use your short manifesto as a blue print for this subject when it comes up which happens fairly often. Big boy trousers, looking like a man-child… love it! Thanks again Max.
Nice one André, my path was the same, from total rejection to complete acceptance. Wide trousers work very well, but shorts can be really interesting, when they have the right cut and detail. Peter Beard wearing them with a jacket over his bare chest, in Cassis what an image.
Does anyone know of a good pair of cargo pants ? i looked most japan offerings and they all have really big side pockets
Whenever my wife and I are in London, we stopped by to see Andre… Last time we were there, he made a very valid point to me about the reasons for his preference for black shoes over brown…. It resonated with me. Such a stylish gentleman and lots of fun to talk with.
Thanks so much Michael, that’s very kind of you 🙏🏿
Shorts have a place, but a very limited one. I believe Mr. Tom Ford has said that men should only wear shorts at the resort, gym, or tennis court, but never in the city. I’d say this is wise advice for grown men to follow.
Cannot agree more…
Again, Fran Lebowitz said more or less the same thing yet here I am as well as a bunch of other men apparently.
Part of the joy of being a grown man I think is the ability to heed advice and then do away with it if it doesn’t suit you.
Also, I stopped heeding Tom Ford’s advice when he tried to get us to buy leopard print silk boxers for over £200.
100%. Simon often writes about the importance of nuance and context rather than absolute rules – which led me to recall the following quote from Simon on another article about shorts from a few years ago:
“ If you’re playing with your children in the park, shorts are great, in the city or not. I remember one tailoring enthusiast wearing a suit and DB waistcoat to take his daughter to the swings: it looked ridiculous, like costume. You might as well be wearing a lace collar and a powdered wig.”
Love it when old things still read well!
This American here understands your judges still wear lace collars and powdered wigs… but our countries have long since settled things, so I won’t stir up any more trouble.
Gaslighting Mr. Ford in no way changes the wisdom of his advice concerning shorts. Of course a man can wear shorts if he wants too, but should he? Mr Ford says yes, but only under certain limited circumstances. A nice pair of cotton or linen pants are very comfortable even in very warm weather. So gentlemen do yourselves a favor and follow Tom Ford and Fran Lebowitz’s advice and don’t wear shorts in town. We need to rid ourselves of the delusion that we look good in shorts because we don’t. Shorts are perfectly fine at the beach, the lake, or athletic activities, but a bad look for men otherwise.
I’m not convinced that that’s what gaslighting means, but that point to one side, why is something fact just because “Mr Ford” says so?
“We need to rid ourselves of the delusion that we look good in shorts because we don’t.”
Is there no scope for any nuance – what he said may not be a bad rule of thumb for many if not most people, but surely there are relevant factors such as the specific shorts and how they form part of the outfit? The vibe the person wearing them gives off (eg some people can wear a cowboy hat outside of Texas, others would look ridiculous)? The wearer’s body? The activity they are doing? The weather?
To me the point you are making is a bit like saying Coco Chanel said to look in the mirror and take one piece of clothing off, therefore I am required to do this.
This article also reminded me of outfit 4 in
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/10/colour-in-the-city-how-to-dress-like-jean-manuel-moreau.html
And whether or not it’s to your taste, im sure it’s possible to look much worse in trousers without much effort.
Nice points Alex
Like Alex said (along with other good points) I’m pretty sure that is not how gaslighting works, but my voice going against his advice and dismissing his overly priced boxer shorts will barely register.
I will say, it is. interesting how some readers will decry the world of fashion yet run to the stalwarts of fashion when it suits just to back up a point.
It’s not a delusion to look good in shorts, it’s a possibility if you give yourself the chance and try something new.
Let’s not forget that Tom Ford most certainly broke a few “rules” to get to the point where he could give out advice.
I like where André is going with this. Here is Australia, shorts are a staple for half the year, though the style can be ‘routine’ and uninspiring. André is proposing a more elevated look. I like the muted colours, the bigger silhouette, the considered way he’s teamed the shorts with his other items. He could easily step into an upscale restaurant/venue in Sydney and look entirely on point.
Love
I personally love shorts and basically live in them during summer, if I am not on duty. I think they suit me (and most men) especially when they are cut a little wide, like my army shorts from Buzz Rickson’s. I also like to wear my patagonia baggies with a more formal top, like a workwear shirt. And yes, I have quite hairy legs.
What type of workwear shirts do you wear with your baggies? I’ve been thinking of getting a pair of baggies for the upcoming hotter months but was trying to think of what pairs well with them beyond a t shirt or singlet/vest layered with something else.
What watch is that? Very nice!
It’s a vintage one from a maker called Gruen
Short shorts, a mostly unbuttoned and untucked linen shirt and some birks for me in the summer.
Heavily tattooed legs do bring out the stares (and the occasional comments about wearing tights) though, even somewhere as casual as London.
Bryceland’s Gurkha (especially the HBT Olive ones) and UDT shorts are absolute classics. That’s all I’ve been wearing here in Italy this summer, given the temps, aside from Patagonia 5 inch’s at the beach. Their versatility is unrivaled, the comfort plentiful (finally shorts that are either real short or large enough to help with the scorching heat and aren’t just chinos cut in half) and they can definitely take a beating. They might be a tad expensive but they’re absolutely worth the price.
I regularly wear shorts during hot weather. You have to pay attention to the material, its harmony with the top like nice smedley polo , but also the shoes. In short, wearing shorts implies rethinking everything, and that’s good, right?
ALAN..just put them and enjoy!!!!! Peace
Loose trousers in a light cotton or linen are bearable in most temperatures. They also offer better protection against the sun and the bugs. I wear shorts but only at home and the beach
OLI..that’s cool..enjoy your day..peace
Come the summer which is as far as I’m concerned is June to the end of September (indulge me-Japan is 30C+ for that long) then shorts are a must. 3 pairs at the moment-navy cargo from Timberland and beige and washed out pink from Uniqlo. Have never worn them at work but there are people who do post-COVID and more relaxed dress codes in general.
I remember many moons ago (30 years ago), my friends and I going out for a night in darkest north-west England in summer and we all decided to wear above the knee shorts, OCBD or polos and thin cotton jackets. Very preppy, very ‘saw it in Ralph Lauren’ and very full of ourselves we were. A whole evening of being looked at, laughed at but some compliments mainly from women. Fortunately, times and ways of thinking have moved on and for the better, I believe.
DAN JAMES..you enjoy wearing shorts..nice..me Too!!!!! Peace
Good Sunday morning..lovely discussion..for those who don’t wear shorts no problem everything is cool..for those who wear shorts like myself ENJOY!!!!!ladies and gentlemen fans of permanent style have a wonderful day..headed to church in about 30 minutes…my attire light weight Glen plaid double breasted suit…cheers and much peace 2 all…
Andre good article….you created a lively discussion…. peace
What does your nightwear look like? Is it pyjamas?
I love wearing shorts. I wear them everywhere from Easter to Halloween, except for weddings and funerals. I wear them year round when at home.
It rather upset me when I heard that the Bermudan diplomats stopped wearing shorts as their national dress (at the UN, etc). They said people didn’t take them seriously. Very upsetting.
I am such a fan of the black linen AWMS shirt you are wearing. Shame I missed it when it was released. As for shorts, I’ll be wearing them non-stop as soon as the temperature reaches 20 degrees Celsius. I like to wearing black linen shorts, Uniqlo has some nice ones.