The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the best macs.
Happy to help on other styles, but this is my favourite single-breasted raincoat at the moment, in large part because it has such subtle style. Single-breasted raincoats can look so plain and dull - one reason so many guys look to trenches instead, I suspect - but the Rider’s Raincoat has style in spades.
It’s that wide fly front, which makes a feature of the single-breasted design. The A-line shape that is so effectively cinched by the belt at the back. The thickness of that belt and its dense lines of stitching (which are echoed on the back of the collar).
It looks like a plain mac, but has these details everywhere - the gusseted double pockets, the triple stitching at the shoulder. I can take credit for none of these things of course, as it was designed by Drake’s back in 2017, and even then with inspiration from a vintage cavalryman’s coat.
But it’s lovely to have the power to be able to bring it back, given how much I’ve loved mine. I convinced Drake’s to remake it last year in a new colour - khaki - and this year we’ve brought back the original beige as well. It’s available on the PS Shop now, here.
I've deliberately been wearing the one pictured for several months. Partly this was to illustrate how it wears in, because the the pure-cotton material is densely woven (in order to be highly water resistant) and that means it’s a bit stiff to start with.
Mine softened quickly and has only got better since, through repeated wears and soaks plus the occasional wipe down when it got muddy. The material is more malleable now but feels dense and strong - ageing in much the same way as a pair of vintage chinos.
The principle of making a coat this way is the same as with the chinos, but that does mean a little more communication is required. Hopefully seeing one worn in helps.
I like wearing the raincoat over a knit or T-shirt, as you feel the material that much more closely. It’s so much nicer than a normal, swishy synthetic. Though I should say I also wear my Coherence coat regularly and that’s a synthetic - in those cases often because I need something thin that can be folded into a bag.
I’ve shown the raincoat here with a white T-shirt and a Rubato crewneck, plus black jeans and brown-suede boots. In the image below the knit is slung around the shoulders, which won’t be a look for everyone (and of course not practical when it’s actually raining). But the point here is that on warmer but wet days, a T-shirt underneath the coat is fine and a knit can be worn or removed as needed.
In places like London at this time of year that’s particularly useful, when it can be eight degrees in the morning but 20 by mid-afternoon, then raining by evening.
The other reason I wore that outfit was to illustrate how colours like washed black and white work with this version of a traditional beige.
That classic raincoat beige is usually more associated with warmer, rural colours like brown and green, particularly with a corduroy collar. But both the beige and that cord are muted enough that it works with my cold-colour wardrobe as well as business colours like navy and grey.
And of course, if you’d still prefer to avoid the traditional mac look, you can go for the khaki alternative we introduced last year (below). As I showed in the launch article for that, it has a real late-80s Armani vibe, but it too works with a T-shirt and jeans.
I know most readers are looking for just one good mac, particularly given how expensive everything is these days, so these points of versatility are always front of my mind.
I’ve also included images at the bottom of this article from other shoots with my original coat over the years, to show some other combinations.
You can see warmer colours here - brown cords, green flannels, Colour-8 cordovan. Plus some other levels of formality - a tweed jacket, double-breasted jacket, flannels. It has been shot quite a bit.
The one thing I find I do a little differently now is wear the collar down more. I still love that popped-collar look more, for its drama and old-trench-coat vibes, but the collar looks good down too, particularly with a scarf.
I wrote more in the original launch article about the specific design aspects of this coat, and other functional points. If you want more on those and missed it the first time round, do have a look there.
Some of the points in summary though are:
- The material comes from an Italian mill that specialises in technical outerwear
- It has a similar waterproofing effect to the Ventile, but also has an immersive waterproofing treatment (no spraying, no PFCs)
- The body is quite A-line, but it should be cinched at the back, as shown, to give it shape. This creates a really flattering silhouette
- I wear it mostly either open, or with one or two of the top buttons fastened. Less so the waist button or all the way down
- The overall design reflected one of my favourite periods of Drake’s, when it felt like so many parts of a traditional man’s wardrobe were being made contemporary again: made to be and shown to be relevant.
And functional details:
- The angled hip pockets have a double entry, so you can put your hands in the outer pocket but also reach through to bigger internal pockets
- There’s a phone-sized pocket behind the fly front, like the Wax Walker. So you can more quickly reach a phone or something else.
- We decided not to do a lining with the coat largely on economic grounds. Having one in the old trench coat always made it expensive, and readers said that they’d have preferred to pay for just the coat and make it more affordable.
- The lining is a 100% cotton heavy shirting cloth
- Sold-brass belt buckle, dark-brown horn buttons
As with the first coat, Drake’s are also stocking it, so it’s available to try on in their stores. Of course, we always appreciate it when people buy from us and we will have it with us when we come to New York for our pop-up in mid-October, and the London pop-up in late October.
The coat is not part of the PS outerwear available to try on at William Crabtree, who are holding try-ons of all other coats through October.
The Rider’s Raincoat costs £995 plus VAT (£1195 in the UK) and is available to buy now on the PS Shop, in sizes XS to XXL.
Sizing:
- Simon wears a Medium/38 (UK chest size, 48 European). He is six foot tall with a 39-inch chest
- He could also wear a 40 (it would just be a little more cinched in body)
- We recommend looking at the chest size and comparing to a raincoat you own (more than the shoulders or waist)
Size chart:
| XS (34) | S (36) | M (38) | L (40) | XL (42) | XXL (44) | |
| Chest | 56cm | 58.5 | 61 | 63.5 | 66 | 68.5 |
| Shoulder width | 45.6 | 46.8 | 48 | 49.2 | 50.4 | 51.6 |
| Hem width | 76 | 78.5 | 81 | 83.5 | 86 | 88.5 |
| Centre back length | 116.5 | 117.5 | 118.5 | 119.5 | 120.5 | 121.5 |
| Sleeve length | 63.2 | 64.1 | 65 | 65.9 | 66.8 | 67.7 |
Note: As with most garments, tolerance is around 1cm. Including measurements to the nearest millimetre does not mean greater accuracy
Alterations:
This is not the easiest coat to alter, or one you’d want to change the style of much, but some changes are possible:
- Body can be shortened by a good tailor, but not lengthened (though given the length, hopefully not required by many)
- Sleeves cannot be lengthened, but could be shortened (same restrictions as with other coats with wrist straps: can only shorten a bit or would need to remove strap)
- Body can be slimmed through the side seams, but again wouldn’t recommend as would change the style, and you can cinch as much as you want with the belt
Regarding the Coherence coat, would you wear jeans with them as you would with this raincoat?
I wouldn’t, no
That is a fantastic coat! I wish I had more use of such a coat. In Stockholm, the transitional seasons seem to get shorter and shorter every year; we basically go from summer to winter directly.
Thanks Philip. Yes, that’s one reason I wanted to emphasise the ability to wear it with things like just a T-shirt. When I was in Stockholm recently for example, top temperature was 17 degrees but it was rainy and showery. A coat like this would have been great
This coat looks so great, in both colors!
I‘ve noticed that you most likely are not wearing metal toe taps on your RTW shoes. Is there a particular reason why?
I should do more to be honest, but I don’t always remember to ask for them – or put them on after the fact on RTW
What is the benefit of metal toe taps?
You wear that part of the sole down a lot slower, and so need resoling less frequently. It depends on how you walk whether it’s useful – if you look on your shoes you can see from the soles which places wear down the quickest. With other people it’s much more the heels
Also, (1) for people that are a bit clumsy and like a brisk walk (dangerous combination), it is a great way to minimise damage on the front of the sole when hitting something (like a till sticking out a cm or so on the sidewalk), (2) metal toecaps produce a great sound on stairs and stone floors etc and (3) if you try hard enough you can kick a football in half (of you wanted to). I have metal toe caps on all my quality shoes, love it
Ha!
I guess I would gently add for more aggressive readers out there that you don’t want to try that too much, or you’re likely to damage the leather on the toe of the shoe – and that isn’t replaceable!
Of course, too much metal on the outer soles, “the more you’re slip sliding away”.
Where do you get them added to your RTW shoes? I found somewhere years ago but don’t seem to have bookmarked it.
All recommendations like that are on our dedicated page on clothing care resources Aaron
Hi Simon,
what corduroy trousers are you wearing in the picture with the umbrella?
That was from an old Drakes shoot. It was a pair they were doing at the time
I was going to ask this same question! I am looking for a good pair of corduroy trousers in a more casual silhouette. So far, the best ones I’ve seen are from Wythe.
Great job on the khaki colour. I think it is more useful than for example the traditional “honey” colour from burberry. The khaki I like has a cast of green to it, which makes it better with grey trousers to my eyes. I was happ when I found a vintage Burberry in the rarely seen khaki colour they apperently only did for a short time.
Simon, may I ask about vintage cotton: If you would buy a 100% cotton Burberrys coat from the early 90s would you dry clean it and have it waterproofed? Or better just dry clean and leave the cotton alone? Thanks!
If you could waterproof it that would be ideal, but I’d want someone to do it who had done it before I guess, so the result was more predictable
It was an option the dry cleaner offered me, so I guess this is what they often do after cleaning.
Interesting, thanks
Isn’t the title of the article twisted up? Or am I confusing khaki and beige?
Probably. Khaki in particular is used to mean a bigger range of colours, but it’s really darker than beige – a dull, yellowish dark-brown colour. Comes from the hindi for earth I believe
According to wikipedia khaki is a Persian word for dust/er. Yes the range is apparently really wide. This is the colour that I think of when I say khaki: https://secondsunrise.se/products/buzz-ricksons-m43036-chino-1942-model-khaki?variant=49568149963079 And the same green cast I see in some pictures of the new Rider’s coat.
The first iteration of the Rider’s coat is brown/dark beige to me.
Sorry for the typo. “Persian word for dust/earth colour.”
Any suggestion on where to waterproof one? I have a vintage burberry from harrods in a polyester/cotton blend (I think it’s from the 90’s). Although not 100% cotton, the material is holding up perfect (no creasing due to the polyester as well), it could use a new coat of waterproofing though.
No sorry. Just my local dry cleaner who apparently do this normally after cleaning a rain coat. They cannot be the only ones.
Interesting I shall inform on some in my area. Couldn’t find anything online when searching in The Netherlands.
Thanks!
You observed that SB raincoats can look plain and dull and suggested that’s why many prefer trenches. There could be negative associations too, especially with beige SBs. In Britain, they were associated with sleazy men in Soho. In America, they were the “trademark” of Peter Falk as Columbo who made them look sloppy and unkempt.
Ah yes, true. I think in this cloth you really avoid that too
The corduroy collar and belt make a huge difference. My perception is that the rider’s raincoat is similar in style to the Huntsman Mackintosh from Cording’s. The rider’s is longer, probably lighter and therefore more suited to wearing in a town or city.
Which (ones) of your dress paradigms (ie British, American Ivy, Workwear, Casual Elegance etc) would you describe this as best fitting into?
Good question. I’d say not workwear, but could certainly fit with British Country and Ivy, and bridges into the Casual Chic a surprising amount – especially when worn with black and especially in the darker colour
I agree with Simon. The tattersall lining, with its horse racing heritage, is very British country and therefore American Ivy too.
This looks lovely, and sorry if this is a bit of a numpty question but how is this coat functionally different to a classic trench coat (both in terms of warmth/weatherproofing, but also the circumstances you would wear it in)?
Warmth and waterproofing will be similar. The DB is a little warmer but the material and little thicker, so they probably balance out.
Circumstances would be quite similar too – it’s more about style. A trench can be quite a lot for some people, or a little fussy. This is simpler and more understated
Makes sense, thanks!
My old blue SB (Aquascutum) raincoat is a bit thin for winter. I’m therefore thinking of buying a Grenfell trench as the inexpensive detachable liner would be very useful. I can’t decide between the Kensington and the slightly cheaper Windsor. Grenfell’s website does not have a phone number for customers to contact. Any thoughts or comments, especially on the choice of cloths and construction, would be a great help.
I got great support by email.
Hi Simon, looking for your advice, as I love this coat but I’m a little conflicted as I also purchased a synthetic Coherence ‘Al II’ trench (not in beige but in a light grey/stone colour) prior to the initial release of the Rider’s Raincoat. I love my trench, it’s a little lighter weight/more packable and it is, in my opinion, versatile (I have worn it over tailoring but also with jeans and knits). However, it is more dramatic than the Rider’s Raincoat (which can be seen as both good and bad). I guess my question is do you think the Rider’s Raincoat is any more versatile?
I think so, yes. I love trenches as well and still wear the PS ones, but this kind of single breasted is always going to be more versatile I think
Hi Simon, so glad this is back! I love the specific design details as always and am a bit torn when it comes to choosing a colour. As you have had the beige for some time and have now had the khaki for a year, do you have a preference? Unless I am mistaken, they both seem equally adept at being worn with t-shirts, jackets, suits, and brown/black shoes?
Yes I’d say so, I’m pleased with how versatile each is.
My personal favourite might be the khaki, but it very much depends which style you like more – the beige is much more updated traditional, which I think will fit with a lot of readers more
I much prefer the PS Trench. I have version 1.0 and it is now 7 years young and I’ve worn the hell out of it.. It now feels like a second skin. I love it.
Sadly this does nothing for me. It hasn’t got remotely the same pizzazz.
Thanks David.
I’ve been so looking forward to this re-stock! Ordered the khaki in L.
I wish there was a good solution for those who ride a bicycle to work. A short rain coat will leave the legs to be soaked, while a long coat like this will get in the way and risk getting stuck in the wheels etc.
Not sure how it could be done really. Does anyone here know of a good solution that is at least somewhat asthetically pleasing?
Hannes
Private White previously produced this poncho designed for cycling which may be what you’re looking for? If so, might be worth checking if they are planning to restock.
https://www.privatewhitevc.com/products/the-envoy-poncho
Have you thought of wearing waterproof trousers for cycling? If you don’t like synthetic materials, tweed trousers with breathable waterprooof membranes are available from shooting and hunting brands. They would be ideal for cold weather too.
I’m not sure how much less waterproofing you need for bicycle… But I did motorcycle commute for some years… Waterproof on the inside is just terrible. While yes, going to work was fine, coming home goretex membrane was all moist, cold and soggy (not much drying after 8h in the locker). So you get soaked outer layer that’s been sitting 8h in the locker squashed right against goretex membrane. And semi dry ( but still moist and cold) inner layer. For a motorbike my best investment was goretex pro jacket. (Membrane on the outside). I stayed 100% dry even in such heavy rain I could barely see road while doing 50mph.
I’d think cheap plastic onesie would be best for cycling… Downside, it’s not breathable…
Vollebak has some nice waterproof pants as well. They are called Waterfallproof Pants.
A long coat can work ok with a trad-roadster-type bicycle – the upright position, full mudguards, and skirt/coat guards on the rear wheel mean you can wear most things. Aren’t there long coats designed for horse riding (long split vents/straps to hold the material to the legs) – they might work? The best cyclist’s solution to proper rain other than tech gear is IMO a rain cape. Carradice still make waxed cotton ones ( https://carradice.co.uk/products/duxback-rain-poncho ), which are the least aesthetically objectionable, but alas still not really the kind of thing to be worn away from the bike.
Red baseball cap is a daring choice in this era of politics.
I don’t know what it’s like in the US, but in the UK people get that connection without making any actual assumptions I find
I can confirm that here in the US we make a lot of assumptions.
Just a really cool coat Simon, well done. Lovely styling!
Just picking up on a point you made about wearing the collar down, particularly with a scarf. I think the PS Donegal overcoat would look just great like this as well, it has such a beautiful collar!
Thanks Ck, and yes you’re right it does – I wear it down a little more in the same way for the same reasons
Lovely coat Simon. Quick question. I have a beautiful grenfell raincoat made of a light waterproof wool but the collar won’t stand up on its own (or at least not for long). Any idea if this is easy to fix? Looking at your coat made me wonder if I could have a cord strip stitched in or something like that? Thanks
I don’t think it would be I’m afraid. It would be a matter of the internal make of the collar and the shape it is cut to, neither of which you could change without remaking it
How “waterproof” is the fabric compered to a classic Barbour oil skin jacket?
Just as waterproof I’d say. Not as much as a technical jacket, but the same as a waxed jacket, ventile etc
Here’s an idea for a post: a detailed guide to vintage Burberrys. We have detailed histories of all Rolex references; heck we even have a multi-part article on every possible historical iteration of the Brooks Brothers oxford shirt! Yet very little information on pre-1999 Burberrys: the different colors, fabric compositions (100% cotton, 50% cotton, 33% cotton, wool, silk etc.), single vs double breasted, with or without belt, other features, how the fit has evolved. You may not have that encyclopedic knowledge, Simon, but with your immense network of clothing aficionados, I’m sure you’ll find an expert or cobble together a team of experts!
This can even be a series: after you exhaust Burberrys’ extensive historical catalogue, you can move onto Aquascutum, and even compare the two brands. Then you have London Fog, Brooks Brothers, Grenfell etc. Think about it; this could be a great contribution to the broader menswear community
Thanks Tim, I certainly will. I guess it would be of most use to people when the vintage pieces are fairly widely available. Otherwise it’s more just academic
Right now there are plenty of pieces on eBay, and I’m sure the occasional vintage trench shows up in most people’s local thrift shop. Do you have a past time in mind when these were even more plentiful? I can tell you that today old Burberrys are just as, if not much more, available then old Brooks Brothers 6-button front shirts!
I think the reason for its relevance is that many who have handled the old trench and raincoats agree that they rival if not exceed 99.9% of modern equivalents in quality and cut. A 50% blend raincoat from the 80s or 90s is more likely still going strong and shedding raindrops today. To such an extent that lauded modern takes on the trench and balmacaans (such as yours) are directly inspirations and responses of the heyday knee-length raincoats
Thanks Tim.
I think they were more plentiful when production was current, but probably not since then. And yes, Brooks shirts not necessarily a good example of being rarer!
I did a fair amount of research before buying a 90’s Burberry trench on eBay, focusing on the details that would help make sure I was not getting ripped off. I knew I was getting a bigger fit, I did not dare to size down but I probably could. I still from time to time think about getting one in size 48 instead of my usual 50.
I have some bookmarks lying around but I can’t find an article I read about the labels which was very helpful. I will reply with the link if I find it.
Happy to compare notes with you sir. My previous experience with the double breasted trench was not positive in terms of fit. It was an 80s or earlier model, when the liner was still buttoned on, not zipped on. However the low armholes on this 50% polyblend coat really limited arm mobility for me. I even sized one up, and my 5’9 slimmish frame was dwarfed by the cinched trench coat. Yet I still have trouble reaching forward. Luckily I passed the coat along at little loss (actually I likely turned a profit)
Recently I came across a SINGLE breasted belted trench coat, in a deal that was too good to pass up. I should receive it in a couple of days, and fingers crossed I have better luck this time
This looks great and I can see how the simpler, cleaner style of this coat relative to the old trench could be seen as more appealing, more wearable, less of a statement. This article talks a lot about the density of the cotton–does this piece wear hotter than the old PS ventile trench?
Perhaps a tiny bit, but it’s not a difference I’ve ever noticed. Shape makes a big difference here – it’s a roomy cut and I would never be buttoning it up by much, unless I actually did need to be warm
Super! Almost regretting my PWVC Ventile Mac but it is a bit easier to wear with casual outfits and on the bike (in the Netherlands so on the bike pretty much everyday) so not actually regretting 🙂 Cannot justify another rain coat (yet). All the best
Cheers Jan
I purchased the Khaki last year and fell in love. Definitely the best raincoat I have ever handled. Picked up a different coat in Beige two days ago, but immediately went to return it and grabbed this one in beige instead. Kudos, Simon!
Are the MTO Suede overshirts still planned for this month?
Amazing, lovely to hear David.
The suede overshirts are being restocked this month. Hopefully MTO should be at the same time, but certainly it will available by the time of the pop-ups, so people can come in and try sizes in order to place an order.
Hey Simon – what size are you wearing in the Rubato jumper?
Medium
Bravo on continuing this understatedly elegant piece – the additional colour this year looks great!
I’ve tended to favour trench coats myself so far — including a PS one in olive.
But I did pick up an unbelted SB (80s/90s?) Burberry one in beige wool gabardine second-hand, and you’re so right about the styling when it comes to how you button.
It’s a roomy fit already which drapes very nicely, so I like to have it open and let the front curl back on itself naturally, scarf on display.
I think I’m coming round to a personal rule that coats like this should be buttoned sparingly and only fastened fully in a downpour!
Wishing you every success with your expanded offering.
Agree on the buttoning, nice to hear
I bought the khaki version last year and really like. Unfortunately (or not) I haven’t used it as much this summer but will probably during the Fall. I will not buy this one as they are too similar but can really recommend the model. I agree with Simon that the khaki model probably are marginally more versatile.
I actually have three “PS raincoats” if you also count the Wax Walker and the Motor trench (navy models) as raincoats. That, together with a Gore-Tex outdoors jacket, keeps me covered.
Useful feedback, and great to hear Carl, thank you
What’s the herringbone scarf? It’s really nice – looks very similar to the grey donegal in colour and pattern!
Yeah it is. An old Drake’s one
I’m 6’4 and 197lbs. Should I purchase an extra large
Can I suggest you compare the measurements to a coat you already own Gary? That’s a better way to assess sizing generally
Hi Simon,
Building on this question, I only have a more tailored, wool overcoat. This fits well and measures 56 cm across, pit to pit. With the medium riders measuring 61 and the large measuring 63, I’m inclined to go with a medium. I wear a 38/48 or 40/50 in jackets, depending on the maker.
All that said, without having a proper comparison to this coat, I’m torn on which size to go with. I’m also concerned about them selling out before I could navigate a return/exchange.
It looks like we’re similar in sizing. Id welcome your guidance on which one to go with and your reasoning.
Thank you, kindly.
I’d certainly go with a medium in that case Jack
I have a 25 year old Burberry balmacaan that I am thinking of replacing. How would you compare this coat to the Burberry in terms of both style and value?
The style is a little more interesting and unusual, and the fabric a little tougher. Other than that you’ll find a lot of similarities probably
For value, this is much better than anything you’d get from Burberry today
Hi, there ~~ I’ve enjoyed your posts for several years, but as a short lady, not much relevance to me personally. However, I forward them to my son, and that leads me to a question — do you have a guide, even an informal one, for Chicago? He’s recently moved north to the Windy City region, and the clothes that were sufficient for the previous climes of the Bay Area no longer suffice.
Many thanks.
We don’t, sorry Annie. I do know the shop Dashing Chicago, which is good, and the hat shop and maker Optimo is the best in the world – really worth a visit
As a stain-magnet (two kids + two dogs) I would love this coat in Navy. Are there any alternatives that come to mind with similar drape/length and single breasted?
I’m afraid not Hasse for SBs, but I don’t think the khaki colour would be that different to navy in terms of how it would deal with dirt. It’s also a very robust cloth – it would look better if anything for a regular walk with the dog, and just a wipe down whenever it was needed. It’s a tough coat, made to be worn and worn
Thank you for this, Simon. The coat looks excellent. I was wondering if you might, in addition, be able to recommend a coat like this in black. One often requires that colour with dark suiting, for which such a coat would not be suitable. (Navy is also not perfect in case one wears charcoal or, on occasion, a black suit.) Macintosh does make one with black, but it does not have any lining and is therefore too light. Burberry has often, of course, but the branding is a bit off-putting. I have been trying to locate one but have had no luck. Thank you.
I don’t know one, sorry. I’m not sure I’d wear a black one though – a beige colour like this was always worn historically with dark suits and I think it worked well
Hey Simon, Love the color of the coat
which color you think is more versatile dressing in the cold color wardrobe
From what i see the tan color if dressing with cold wardrobe it will look too dark all going together but if it s beige as least it has something to stand out (not sure if you understand what i m trying to say)
and personally i believe if you make other color that looks like the DB ciardi corduroy (light grey,green) would be quite awesome
Thank you
Josh
I agree Josh. Either could look good and the darker colour is more natural fit, but the beige would provide more contrast
I really like the look of it but I think I have gotten lazier in the sense now I want something with a hood so I don’t have carry umbrella… any “classical” ish choice or just doesn’t really work.
Hi Simon,
Is there any chance of a restock on the motor trench in olive?
No, sorry Richard
I always buy beige raincoats, in full knowledge that they are the worst colour to wear in London as they collect all the dirt and grease stains lurking on the London Underground, it’s just the best colour.
Since the demise of Aquascutum, I have bought their older, longer raincoats on Ebay, I really don’t see the point of a buying a raincoat that sits above your knees, as has long been the fashion, so it’s good to see the Rider’s raincoat back in stock.
Thanks Neil – and yes, I think all you have to do is be caught in the rain once and see the water running down onto your knees, to realise it’s a bad idea!
Glad these brilliant coats came back for another run. Happy with the billowing bottom half though I’m looking for guidance on how roomy the top half should be.
I have the v.1 original from Drake’s in size 40. While that’s served well, it’s always been tight on the chest and shoulders when adding a mid/heavy jumper in cold weather. I’ve sized up to 44 in Drake’s over the years so took the opportunity to try the 44 and 46 this time round. They both seem to fit well but the 46 better across shoulders with no diagonal crease when buttoned, unlike the 44. 46 also enables a nice shearling gilet to sit under as well – aiming for deep winter.
Question – is the coat designed to be layered that much i.e. the shoulders on the 46 with just a t-shirt hang down a little more over the shoulder or are you aiming for a snug fit on the shoulders rather than slouchy). Can it work more fitted or slouchy?
Also, I’ve noticed even the 46 new version is a good inch or two shorter than the original in size 40 – any reason for that as it’s getting closer to the knee. They do look more elegant when longer – another inch the other direction would have been even better on this otherwise faultless coat. Thanks for bringing it back!
Hey Alan,
Yes it can work more fitted or slouchy, I think the decision there is more what range you want of what things are layered underneath.
The length should be the same, but doesn’t change much between sizes. I’ll check mine but I think the lengths between the old and the new were pretty much the same.
Hi Simon, I got the khaki version and I’m very happy with it! Any chance you might also consider a navy one for the furure?
Great to hear Gabriele! Yes perhaps
Dear Simon,
Just received my order. The raincoat is great. I love the color (although it appears darker than on the pictures) and am amazed by its weight.
I believe the sizing is correct as the shoulders seem to sit perfectly. However, the sleeves are a bit short as I feared. I have long arms, therefore, when wearing with a custom made shirt and jacket, they exceed by a few centimeters.
I’m weary that if I size up the coat will be a bit too roomy, especially when wearing without a jacket. I suppose that’s part of the trade off you mentioned .
Obviously, it would be preferable in terms of protection to have the shirt and jacket sleeves more covered. But I guess that’s not such a big issue. Have attached a picture.
Would be happy to have your opinion please.
Cheers
Romain
Hey Romain,
Great, it looks really nice!
Yes there’s always going to be a little trade off like that with RTW. I’d leave it as it is – I don’t think anyone that isn’t a menswear geek is going to say the sleeves look short. And you have your hands in the pockets a lot of the time anyway (or holding an umbrella I’d imagine)
Thanks for your supper swift answer Simon. Decided to follow your advice and had the first opportunity to test the coat as I had to go pick up one of my children from school under buckets of rain. The coat did a great job of course and I was delighted to keep dry knees (unlike with my PWVC ventile mac – which I love but la lacks length).
Best
Romain
Amazing! I hope it gives you many years of joy Romain
Romain, might I ask how long your shirt sleeves are? I have exactly the same problem and am worried this coat might be a bit short for me, especially as the sleeves can’t be lengthened.
Dear Simon,
I really liked Romain’s post since seeing the fit on others provides some perspective for my own sizing thoughts, so I figured I should follow the example!
I too got my (gorgeous) raincoat yesterday, and am a bit on the fence when it comes to sizing. My chest is 92cm, so fairly narrow shoulders, and I opted for the small size. Although it’s wider in the chest than e.g. the Donegal coat, it’s interesting that the model still looks quite slim, in particular when buttoned. I’m still not sure whether this is good or if I should size up.
For reference, the last pic is an old Berg & Berg coat that’s roughly the same width as the small should be. For some reason I’ve always felt this one was too large (maybe because of the low armholes), but perhaps that would work better in the raincoat?
So, opinions warmly welcome; should I consider sizing up, or just go for the unbuttoned look and accept the slim profile on the few shower occasions when one has to button it?
I think it looks really good to be honest Erik, I would stick with that. The silhouette is really nice, and certainly better than the Berg.
As in the pictures of me, I also never button more than one or two buttons, at the chest, as you don’t need to. I also don’t belt it across the front unless it’s a question of warmth
Thanks Simon; that’s very useful insight from somebody who has used the coat extensively! I realized I made a typo; the B&B coat would correspond to the *medium* size, but that one definitely gets a bit too full, and it’s certainly not even close in style 😉
Gotcha, and thanks Erik, pleased it was helpful
Hi Simon, I am loving wearing the raincoat so far, the style is just sonderful, but this morning it faced its first real test, namely a 15-minute walk in heavy rain from tube to meeting. I was a little surprised at how poorly it performed: by the time I arrived the rain had soaked through the shoulders, meaning that both the lining of the coat and the shirt I was wearing were very damp – the shirt visibly so, being pale blue! I appreciate that it’s not claiming to be ‘waterproof’ in the same vein as e.g. Gore-Tex or similar synthetic performance fabrics, but I would have expected it to more or less keep my shirt dry on a rainy London morning. For comparison, I was wearing a waxed Barbour baseball cap, the lining of which remained dry, as did my head, thankfully.
Is the fabric likely to change over time in a way that makes it better able to keep out the rain? Would you suggest coating it (or just the shoulders) with something to help in this regard? Is there a particular way of wearing it that would give it a better chance? I know an umbrella would have prevented the problem altogether, but I didn’t have mine today, and had hoped that a coat like this would come to my rescue on such occasions!
Hey,
That does surprise me actually, I’ve worn it in rain for that kind of period and been OK. It must have been pretty heavy. The material won’t change in a way that would make it more waterproof. You could ask a dry cleaner if they could apply a water-resistant finish, but it does have one already.
Received the beige coat and love it. Thank you, Simon.
I’m 6ft 4 and went with XL as I always need length in the arms and I am usually a size 42/52. The coat feels dramatically big for me, but tying the belt at the back gives it a lovely shape – and I know I’ll get more comfortable in the coat after a few wears.
Now I’m desperate to wear my beautiful new coat, I see it’s not raining for a week. So dumb question — would you wear yours when there’s no sign of rain that day?
Wonderful, good to hear John.
Yes I would do, certainly, I don’t think it looks odd to do so
Can I ask what the joint-to-jont measurement of your shoulder is? I would like to compare with mine when after I wear the raincoat. Thanks.
39cm.
Hi Simon, so I can get a sense of sizing. Do you generally wear a size 48 or 50 jacket in RTW let’s say in Ring Jacket.
Usually a 50, though I’d want the waist of a 48 if I could!
Thank you. I am in in same boat! I tried on 50 and 52 at Drakes and was pushed to bigger but I went home and it feels too big. Will go back for the size 50. I thought you were my size, that’s why I asked. Thanks for reply, super helpful.
No worries, pleased I could help Dave
Hi Simon,
Will this get restocked more regularly or will there be a restock next year? Cheers in advance!
We don’t know actually Edwin, sorry, we wouldn’t plan it until the New Year
I’d be grateful for some advice on sizing, please, Simon.
I have the Donegal Overcoat in size small, and it fits me really well. However, from comparing the tow the sizing guides it seems that the extra small in Rider’s Raincoat is closer to the small Donegal, rather small Rider’s Raincoat.
Which size of Rider’s Raincoat would you recommend to match the small Donegal?
Thanks!
I’d say the small, still. The raincoat is a different shape, more A-line and cinchable in the waist to create shape. It looks bigger but you can adjust it to get the shape you want
Thanks, Simon. I’ll order ASAP once restocked!
Hello Simon,
I did order a small but ended up getting an XS in the end; I preferred the slightly narrower silhouette on me.
Could you recommend a rain hat to wear with it with smarter clothes? I love it with a baseball cap with jeans, but want something smarter to wear with tailoring (more flannels and tweed jacket than suit). I find a fedora a bit too dramatic for me. Would you wear it with a waxed bucket hat (like PWVC’s), or do you have another suggestion?
As ever, thank you. And congrats on another great product.
A waxed bucket hat is probably a good shout, if it’s your style. It’s not an easy area. I tend to wear a baseball cap, a soft fedora, or a suede flat cap
Hi Simon, I love the jacket, but unfortunately my brother bought last year’s version and has banned me from buying this year’s coat since we already have too many of the same/similar pieces.
Do you have any suggestions on other rain coats that are similar in style? I know this is a bit of a weird question.
Thank you
No worries Joe, nice to hear your brother is getting good use out of his.
I don’t to be honest, I understand the question but I wouldn’t have brought it back if I thought there was something similar in terms of cut or material
Frankly, I completely agree. Phenomenal piece. Might go behind his back and see how long it takes him to notice. Cheers
I’ve been eying this ever since I realised I’ve started to outgrow my vintage Burberry trench. I’m not sure if I should go for the XL or the XXL, though, could you give some advice? Intention is to wear it over tailoring for situations where it’s too warm to wear both a tailored jacket and a overcoat. I have a 112cm chest, 194cm tall. I recently put on a bit of muscle, so many of my old garments are starting to strain (thus hard to compare to things I already own). Since I will wear it with tailoring I want it to look fairly smart – roomy, but not so much I’m drowning in it.
Also, just to double check: the khaki is the darker hue and the beige is the lighter one, yes?
Yes that’s right Sam.
What do your other pieces, which are now a bit small, measure across the chest?
Sorry for slow replies, been intense. I think for measurements, I have the PS bridge coat and donegal coat (what can I say, I like the PS outwear) in XL (size 6 at PWVC). The bridge coat can’t be worn with anything more than a thin knit underneath, and is still tight around the chest. The donegal can be worn with a tailored jacket under, but if I button it I don’t have much space left around the chest.
OK, that’s very helpful. I think you’ll find the fit of the Medium here the same as the Donegal you have. The Bridge Coat is slimmer and people often size up.
The Rider’s has a bigger chest and might feel bigger when you first put it on, but cinch it a little with the belt in the back and you’ll get that fit. The advantage of that cut is that you can then uncinch it and get the coat around a lot more if you need to
Really? The M raincoat fits like a XL donegal? The chest measurements between a donegal and a raincoat aren’t that far off – I realise that the donegal is a thicker fabric, which will impact the fit, but that much? From the measurements I’d have guessed that if the XL donegal is fitted over the chest, the XL raincoat would be roomy…
Sorry Sam, I meant an XL, not an M – medium would indeed be a lot smaller!
Ok, that makes sense. So I could probably go for an XL rain coat, then, and it would have a bit more room in the chest than the donegal?
Yes exactly
Hi Simon,
Will both colours be restocked next year?
We don’t know yet Pete. My guess would be no, not both
Thanks Simon, I know you just said you don’t know but which of the colour will be the more likely to come back…
Sorry it’s so that I can get the colour that might not come back first
I don’t know, but if I had to guess I’d say beige less likely to come back
Hey Simon,
I’ve been looking for a long raincoat for some time, but being 5’5″ it’s proven difficult. Most are far too long and whilst I do love this coat the same is true. I note it can be shortened by a tailor but my sweet spot for knee length coats is around 97cm. I would think shortening it that drastically by almost 20cm would significantly alter or even ruin the silouette. What do you think?
This had led me to looking at vintage Burberry trench coats and Grenfell’s Campbell coat. I find double breasted rain coats far more interesting but consesus seems to be that DB coats are really best worn with tailoring, which I rarely wear. Usually I’m in loafers, denim/chinos, OCBDs and knitwear. Would you say single breasted is more suited or versatile for what I wear and can something like a DB Burberry ever be worn more casually?
An SB would certainly be more versatile, yes. A DB is smarter but also a little more unusual, and can be cool with more casual things, just not as versatile and a harder look to work.
Shortening this by 20cm would be too much, yes.
I see, thank you.
I think I’ve decided to go for an SB but it seems very difficult to find one with similar details to the riders raincoat – mainly one with a belt and button details on the cuffs. There seems to be some vintage Aquascutum ones like that around, but nothing new. I don’t suppose you know of anything with similar details?
I don’t no, sorry Dan
Hello Simon,
I’ve been looking at vintage Aquascutum and Burberry as an alternative to this, and they are usually in a range of beiges and khakis. What would you say is most versatile or useful between a lighter beige like the new rider’s raincoat, or something akin to the shade of Rubato’s dark khaki chinos for a coat like this? I think a darker khaki may appear easier to style due to being more muted, but I’m thinking a lighter beige may actually be easier or more useful for it’s ability to create greater contrast with common colours like navy, grey, white, black etc whereas they might blend in more with a darker khaki.
I think that’s right Phillip. The lighter beige is easier to wear, and the only risk is if it looks too traditional for what you want
Hi Simon, for a primarily business dress environment in the city, wearing mostly navy and gray tailoring – do you prefer one color to the other?
Probably the beige, that would be more conservative
Hi Simon – one of the things that has kept me from purchasing a long coat like this is that I like to wear my Optimo hats on my commute (in black, silverbelly, and brown) and I notice I prefer more subtle coats in order to avoid wearing too many statement pieces at once (I go with a narrow ribbon and neutral colors to make them less of a statement, but the point still stands). I’m drawn to this coat because it’s more subtle and I’m taller at 6’3”. Would you wear a coat like this with your felt hats or does it feel like too much for you?
No I think that would work well
Hi Simon,
I’m afraid that i got a large splash of diesel on the front of my coat, that hasn’t come off with soapy water. Do you have a recommendation to clean it?
I assume that the coat is dry clean only? I couldn’t seem to find the care label.
Thanks.
Yes, after soapy water the best thing is dry clean. Oil is a bastard though, good luck
Thanks, Simon. The dry cleaners did a good job on it – you want to use perchloroethylene on diesel; it’s being phased out as unfortunately its really bad for the environment. Apparently!
OK, good to know thanks!
Just coming back here, fingers crossed for a navy one in the future!