Introducing: The Wax Walker

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Wednesday, October 28th 2020
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Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. 

The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often with elements that I feel are lacking with standard versions - whether its length or lapels, cloth or collar (and most often some combination). 

In January this year, we began to think about the English classic, the wax jacket. 

I have a few problems with standard designs, but the biggest ones are the very rural colour palette, the length (many are too short) and the slouchy, A-line shape. 

In our design - which we're calling the Wax Walker, reflecting its likely use on strolls and dog walks in inclement weather - we tackled all of these. 

But we also introduced more than a dozen tweaks that I think hugely improve the style and the practicality of the wax jacket. From a reversible, removable lining to in-seam plunge pockets, they all contribute to make this - strictly in my view - the best in class. 

As ever, this article is not short. It runs through all of these elements, what they're for and why I think it makes a difference. But then I know readers value this detailed approach, both so they understand what they're buying, and so they appreciate what they have. 

The Private White factory has been making outerwear for decades, for dozens of household names, and its archive is extensive. 

The first thing I and the design team did was trawl through this archive, and find examples of wax jackets and field jackets that we liked. There were lots of fascinating details, but the big thing that struck me early was how much nicer the backs of the field jackets were, than the waxes. 

A wax jacket is most commonly A-line, running at least straight if not outwards from the shoulders down to the hem. There’s nothing wrong with that, and it is practical, but you can be just as practical and have a more attractive shape, particularly in the back. 

The field jackets had that, and so we began designing a back with those details: a broad top with pleats either side (sometimes called an ‘action back’); a half belt that could be cinched at the waist for more shape if you wanted; and two pleats below the belt that picked up those same lines as the action back. 

It’s not dissimilar to how a tailor would cut a hunting jacket: fitted in the waist to hold the jacket in place, and then room above and below to allow movement. And the result is just as flattering. 

This design also led to some very cool details. 

For example, it’s much harder to make an action back out of wax, than it is out of wool (as a field jacket would be). Waxed cotton doesn’t move and drape in the same way, and so the pleats don’t open and close cleanly. 

To solve this, Private White put a panel of wool jersey across the whole top of the back, connecting the inside edges of the two pleats. And, hey presto! The pleats worked perfectly. 

It’s still the design element that impresses me most, to be honest. It’s so functional, yet hidden. 

Another nice detail - and one that could easily be missed - is the lack of shoulder seam. 

The back of the jacket is one piece of material that runs up and over the shoulders, ending halfway down the chest. This means there is no seam on the top that could be a weakness for water. 

As with most wax jackets, this is not a true waterproof, just highly water resistant. It’s for a long walk, not serious hiking. But it does help to do little things like move the seams around.

It’s also not possible to tape the seams on wax jackets, as the wax is taken off by the heat used in applying the tape. But, we deliberately used a thicker thread, sewn more slowly, so that the thread fills up the holes when it swells in the wet. 

In fact, quite unintentionally Jamie and I tested out the water resistance during this shoot, around the coast of Northern Ireland. 

As we started walking down to Kinbane castle, the heavens opened and a gale picked up. The rain was lashing against for the whole hour we were there (and during the drive into Ballycastle). My trousers were wet, my cap was soaked, but the jacket I had on under the wax was fine. Completely covered and not even damp. 

As I said, if you’re camping or hiking you need a real waterproof. But for anything less this is absolutely fine. Particularly because wherever you end up, you’ll likely be able to hang it up to dry (unlike when camping). 

My beloved old cap also dried perfectly, and was even a little cleaner for the soaking. 

As you can see from those pictures, the jacket is deliberately long enough to fully cover a tailored jacket (see bottom of the post for measurements). 

And elsewhere I was keen to keep the design as sleek as possible. So the hip pockets are not bellows but flush with the jacket: terrible for holding shells, but good for most else. 

And there are plunge pockets above them, on the waist, but they’re cut into the seam that runs down from that shoulder panel, making them much less visible. 

Nothing irritates me more than plunge pockets that are just slapped on the outside of a jacket, floating - not aligned with anything else. It just seems so lazy.

The top pockets are lined with cashmere, just like the pockets on our other collaboration coats. But, they’re deep enough so that you can use them for a phone or anything else, if you prefer to put your hands in the hip pockets (as I do, mostly). 

So if your jacket is zipped up against the rain and cold, there are plenty of options for storing things and keeping your hands warm. 

Plus, there’s one more option just behind the fly front of the jacket: a vertical, zipped pocket that you again can access without having to unzip (just visible below). That’s where I keep my phone most of the time. 

That outside-but-covered pocket is really useful, and something I wouldn’t have thought about had it not been for all the trawling through the PWVC archive. 

OK, one more functional point before we move onto the aesthetics. 

There is a lining on the jacket, in grey flannel. Great. That lining is removable, so you can wear the jacket in mild conditions as well as cold. Even better. And the lining is reversible, so you can have either side facing outwards. What? Why? 

Basically, we had feedback on the Trench Coat that the lining - lovely as it was - made it hard to get the coat on and off. But not everyone said that. So with the Wax Walker, you have the choice. 

You can feel the nice wool flannel by keeping it facing outwards; or you can make the jacket super-smooth to get on and off, by having the synthetic facing outwards. You can’t have both, obviously, but either way you benefit from the warmth. Neat right?

So, the aesthetics. As with most of the products we’ve developed, this was intended to be a more urban than a rural piece. Colder, subtle colours, and perhaps a less common combination. 

So we went with a very dark-brown waxed cotton, with black corduroy on the collar and ends of the sleeves. The black and brown go very nicely together, and the PWVC signature copper hardware is always nice with colder colours. 

In the photos, as I usually do, I’ve worn the jacket with two different outfits, to show how it looks with both casual clothing (boots, chinos and knit) and a smarter outfit (jacket and flannels). 

Along the way though, it also illustrates the range of colours this brown wax works with: grey and green, cream and beige, a blue shirt and a white tee, indigo and bright-red in the accessories. 

The Wax Walker is available now on the Permanent Style shop site here. All sizes from extra small to extra-extra large. The cost is £665, excluding VAT.

It might be the most involved piece we’ve ever done, and it’s wonderful to see it finally complete.

Some other details to note: 

  • There are two internal chest pockets, both buttoned
  • There is also a large internal left-hip pocket, not quite big enough for game, but certainly for a paperback
  • There is a water-resistant panel running along the bottom of the inside, sometimes referred to as a ‘drip strip’, to help protect when you sit on a wet surface
  • The cuffs have straps and snaps, to fasten against the cold and wet (or if you just prefer a closer fit, for example when worn without tailoring)
  • The waxed cotton is 230g, from Halley Stevenson
  • The flannel is 270g, from Marling & Evans
  • The coat is entirely made in Manchester, England, by Private White VC

Sizing:

  • The Wax Walker fits true to size, and is cut straight rather than slim (the waist cinch enables it to be slimmer if you wish)
  • In the images I am wearing a size 4 (medium) and am 6 foot tall, with a 39-inch chest
  • We highly recommend comparing the measurements below to a coat you already own, however, rather than going off body measurements
  • All measurements are with the jacket laid flat. Chest is straight across, from 2.5cm under the armpit; waist is taken 47cm down the jacket; length is from the bottom of the collar to the hem

 

X-Small (2/36) Small (3/38) Medium (4/40) Large (5/42) X-Large (6/44) XX-Large (7/46)
Chest 52cm 54.5 58 61.5 65 68.5
Cross shoulder 46.1 47.3 49 50.7 52.4 54.1
Waist 52 54.5 58 61.5 65 68.5
Bottom hem 56.5 59 62.5 66 69.5 73
Body length 82.9 83.5 84.5 85.5 86.5 87.5
Sleeve length 63.4 64 65 66 67 68
Cuff 14.8 15.1 15.5 15.9 16.3 16.7

Alterations:

  • Alterations on a jacket like this are harder than on other pieces like the Bridge Coat or Donegal Coat, both because of the complication of the design and because of the waxed cotton material. But other than length, there is also less point to them
  • You can take in the body slightly, but no more than an inch in total, and the liner may would need to be taken in as well. But there is perhaps little point: the waist can be cinched anyway, and the vents and action back make a big difference to the fit elsewhere
  • The sleeves can be shortened, but no more than half an inch before getting too close to the studs
  • Shortening the body is difficult given the pockets and vents, on the front and back
  • Letting out any seams isn't advised, given the holes in the wax material that would show

The other clothes pictured are:

  • First outfit (below):
    • Cream cardigan from RRL
    • White T-shirt from Warehouse
    • Chinos from The Armoury
    • Vintage African indigo scarf
    • Red watch cap from Permanent Style
    • Cranleigh boots from Edward Green
  • Second outfit (tailoring)
  • Studio shots:
    • Charcoal rollneck from Drake's
    • Cream jeans from Levi's Lot.1

Photography throughout: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Henry

Morning Simon,
That’s the waxed jacket I was looking for, without falling into the Barbour hype…

I have for example the bridge coat in M-4 which I had to shorten a bit… (and I wear it only with shirt and knitwear, no further layers otherwise it would become too tight)

I see this jacket can’t be shortened much…would you advise to try an S then?! With the risk to have it still slightly too long.

Thanks And have a lovely day
Cheers

Tristan

I can imagine this would be difficult to shorten. Is the action back something that can be replicated if one were to do this bespoke from a place like Whitcomb and Shaftesbury?

Mohammad Reza

Hi Simon,
Will this be available in PWVC’s brick and mortar store at some stage?

Noel

Incidentally (without having to go into commercial details), is it somewhat detrimental to you if one buys these products directly from PVWC?

I did so with the new donegal coat (very happy with it by the way) because you had unfortunately ran out of stock in my size, I wondered how it affected Permanent Style (Even if it’s also nice to support PVWC).

Noel

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the detailed description of the design.

Would the jacket need periodic rewaxing like standard wax jackets by melting the wax and spreading it over the surface? Or is it an ‘impregnated wax ‘ cotton like some field jackets PWVC has done before that don’t require such maintenance ?

Anonymous

If the sleeves needed to be much shorter could that be done either at the shoulder or by going beyond the current studs and reapplying them?

Nice looking coat and a less scary price than others.

Richard

Morning Simon,
At last! A long time coming and I think you may have just come up with the perfect wax jacket. Before I order, some sizing advice if I may ask? I am 6ft tall with a 41in chest and 33in waist. My previous Barbour jackets always came up far too short in the arm which meant I’d often have to go too large in the body for my liking. I see you are a size 4. Does the arm length work for you and would it still work with a thick sweater or jacket underneath? I’m clearly a 4 or 5 and would welcome your advice as I’d rather get it right first time.

Jason

Simon,
How does this jacket breath ?
The problem I’ve had with wax in the past is they are so airless.
Also, in terms of water resistance, how does it compare to the trench ?

Fatih

Lovely, that is exactly the jacket I was looking for since ages. It addresses all the things I would have changed on my beloved “vintage” Barbour from the eighties. Just ordered one and can’t wait to wear it. And thank you very much for your creativity and effort to make classics even better.

steen

Hi Simon, definitely a gap here, and love how you have gone about improving existing offerings. Brilliant job. Had two quick questions if thats ok. There appear to be studs at the back of the under the collar, will they incorporate a removable hood in any way? And just wondering how you decided on the collar proportions and material choice?

P.F.

Dear Simon,

Lovely jacket!
I had also been looking for a waxed jacket for some time.
You mention explicitly that it is water resistant but not waterproof.
Do you consider it possible to withstand a proper downpouring on a bike commute?
Assuming that it will be hanged to dry once arrived at the destination, of course.

Thanks and congratulations on a great product again!

Jensen

Beautiful piece, love the urban twist with the colour palette. And nice to see the Anglo Italian jacket in a different configuration; how are you finding it a couple of months down the line?

Anonymous

It’s a lovely piece, Simon. I recently purchased a second PWVC Twin Track to replace one I ‘outgrew’ (Translation: Got too fat for) – had I known about this addition to the PS collection, I might have held out for it, particularly as I’m quite fond of the copper buttons/zips which your piece shares with my original twin track, but which is missing from the new one I bought. I also find wearing the twin track over a jacket adds too much bulk and weight for my comfort levels, so having the option to remove the lining of the field jacket and wear it over a jacket would have been a welcome one.

Jonathan

Dear Simon,

will the Wax Walker jacket become available on PVWC too?
I do like the ordering process there and prices are indicated in € including VAT.

Cheers,

Jonathan

Anonymous

Simon
Would the action shoulders be useful for country pursuits?

Also – thought about putting a tab on the bellow pockets so they can remain open? Or too much of a city jacket for that

Colin

Looks incredible Simon and love the colour!! One question: from the specs I didn’t see a throat latch, which can prove useful in wet, cold, windy conditions: any reason for not including this?

Matthew

Will PWVC have any in store? Not so much for purchasing as for looking at in 3D.

Andrew Hughes

Hi Simon,

Beautiful jacket for town or country.

Best,

Andrew

Prince Florizel of Bohemia

Dear Simon,

I was looking for a field jacket, which isn’t too short not too baggy. This one looks absolutly perfect” In addition, I’m a great fun of PWVC. I would love to get one. May I ask you about sizing. You say you wear size 4, but I can see you wear a jacket as well as knit underneath. Does it make much difference? I’d like to wear mine only over sweaters. With Private white, I usually wear size 5 in shackets, but the real outerwaer is often a little too roomy. Do you think I shall take size 4 or 5? Thank you.

Anonymous

Brilliant design! Just placed my order. Does this needs to be re-waxed periodicaly? If yes, any advice to people not in the UK and thus without easy access to PWVC’s facilities?

Jasper

Hi Simon,
It for sure looks like a ” better version” of a wax jacket. The fit and all the details do make a difference if you ask me. However, I bought a Barbour and brought it to a tailor to have the A shaped removed that you mentioned and it worked great. If you want to save on money it’s something that you can do… Is PW really worth the extra money VS Barbour for example? But again if money isn’t you concern, the fit of this jacket does look really cool and improved. Congrats.

Kevin Tan

Hi Simon, just wanted to check, in general, where the length of the coat should fall?

I measured one of my jackets from 100H (closest analogue I could find) and while the body is quite similar (so it’s ok on that front), the length (both body and sleeve are exceedingly long) is something I’m worried about.

The jacket I compared it to has a 71.5 cm back length and 56 cm sleeve length. Correct me if I’m wrong, but this would mean that this Wax Jacket would be too long both in the body and the arms for me, right?

Just wanted to check, because I’ve been looking to replace my Barbour (bought at a time where I was in a different place in my menswear journey) and this is the first piece I’ve seen that seems to fit that bill.

Kevin Tan

Simon,

Thanks for the reply.

On the length, based on measurement, it should still be above the knee, maybe 5-6cm above it and should cover the jacket. It would wear similar to a shorter overcoat compared to the way it falls on you, since (based on the photos) yours ends up around the middle or upper middle of your thigh.

Just don’t want it to look too out of proportion.

As for sleeve length, if I have it shortened, and as you mentioned, does the snap have to be removed completely? Seems like a terrible loss since that’s part of the design of the jacket.

Cheers.

Paul

Perfect timing… it’s been getting seriously moist around here for the last week or so – apparently my hometown is forecast for pouring rain for at least the next week – and I don’t currently have a proper water resistant coat suitable for walking Golden Retrievers in the rain. This is the first wax jacket I’ve ever seen which I actually like the look of – some of the details, especially the lack of a potentially leaky shoulder seam, look ideal, while the sizing appears pretty much identical to the Donegal Coat… XXL on order!

Paul

I’ll see what I can do! Meanwhile, I just noticed that the XXL is already sold out, so I’m really glad I got my order in quickly – and added a second watch cap in the new bright red as well… might need to let the clothing budget recover for a bit, now!

Anonymous

A couple of questions:

1. To maintain a wax cotton jacket, does one need to re-wax it from time to time? And if so, is that something one can do on their own (i.e. doesn’t need a specialty service to do?)?

2. In the next month and lead-up to Christmas, do you expect to release more new products? I ask only as I’m thinking about timing and rationing of my purchases–this jacket won’t be useful for me through a Canadian Winter so I want to see what else is coming and spend on what will be most useful for me.

P.F.

Shearling? Wow! I’ve been waiting for you to cover a shearling coat or jacket for some time now.
Great to hear.
Could you tell us more or less around when we could expect the launch?

Fatih Pekbas

A shearling? You’re killing me today. Do you mind telling a tiny bit more already? I hope it will be something similar to this Wax Walker length wise and not a bomber type. And if it’s then double breasted I most certainly won’t be able to resist.

Noel

Looking forward to the new Oxford cloth. So far I have all the current colours and the OCBD shirts made with them are perhaps the most useful garment I have (useful even when working from home these days). I hope it’s a mild yellow like the pink. One colour suggestion for the future might be grey.

Josh

A truly covetable piece! The sleeve length looks a tad short for me (at 6’4”) but I know PWVC tends to favour an overly broad shoulder so that might make up the difference. This also supports my belief that the only good, new PWVC designs are the PS designs. Thanks for continuing the wonderful work with them; I’m sad to say it’s the only thing keeping me interested in their output. While I love their heritage, ethos, and older designs – the original copper hardware twin track mentioned above is probably my most worn piece of outerwear – I can‘t help but conclude the brand has become increasingly rudderless ever since that brief, ill-fated period in which they claimed they would never seasonally discount again.

Josh

Turns out the sleeve length is, in fact, identical to my twin track! Now I just need to justify bumping this way up my wardrobe essentials buying schedule in order to have two wax jackets… 🤔

Anonymous

Could you clarify what an “action back” is? Unclear based on the description.

Nico

Hello Josh
I’m also 6’4 and I would like to know which size you went for
Also do you have the measurement of shoulders please ? That will have on impact on the sleeves length for me
Thanks a lot

Josh

Hi Nico, I missed out before the sell out but on the basis of the measurements in comparison with my twin track, the 5 would probably be my starting point. The good news is, at all sizes, the wax walker sleeves seem to be on the longer rather than the shorter side. Our respective arm lengths may differ, though, and your choice would also depend on the other measurements, of course.

Justin

Hi Simon-

Do you find that the collar stays up reasonably well even when the jacket is worn open? I love my Barbour Beaufort but I find that the collar is somewhat limp and tends to fall flat unless the jacket is fastened all the way up. Thanks!

Scott

Simon, I have a Private White bomber jacket size 5 that fits perfectly. Would size 5 be appropriate for this collaboration as well?

mbb355

Really interesting idea. I own a Barbour jacket, which I love, but one problem with it is the collar does not stay up stably. Instead, it’s always a bit floppy. I notice that you have the collar up on the Wax Walker in nearly all these photos. Is there something about the Wax Walker collar that allows it to stand up more neatly and stably than the Barbour collars?

Michael K.

Just wanted to address the inevitable Barbour comparisons that are coming up in the comments — the aesthetics are obviously different regardless of the age of your Barbour, but in terms of quality everything PWVC makes is several notches above the modern high street versions of the Barbour. If you can find a vintage one from the sixties or seventies that’s been looked after — rewaxed periodically, mended as necessary, not allowed to mould or get irrevocably musty in a cellar — it will last forever and recreate that Country Life aesthetic that was already anachronistic at the time. I have my father’s early 70s Barbour and it is still wonderful for walking the dog or going to the farmer’s market in the rain. The modern one, which he bought when he could no longer fit into his old one and gave it to me, lasted about five years before falling to pieces. The quality is no longer the same, no matter what the ‘heritage brand’ hype might want you to believe.

Michael K

PS: Just ordered the X-Large because my dad’s old Barbour just looks foolish on me anywhere other than walking the dog or going to the farmer’s market. Will be curious to see if the XL is too big, because according to the measurements I’m basically half way between L and XL

Derek

Hi Simon, repeat Shop buyer here and am potentially interesting in buying this one — do you happen to have the shoulder to shoulder measurements handy as well? Looking at the measurements in the 38 looks to be similar in sizing to the Bridge Coat 40 (which I have and is slightly roomy on me so I’m thinking the 38 might be perfect). This looks great for wear here in Seattle!

Derek

Received mine yesterday Simon. Ended up ordering a Small — and I think I have similar sizing to you in that I’m probably a Medium in the chest and Small in waist. I usually take a 4 in PWVC (I have your Bridge coat + their Harrington, Moleskin Bomber, and Flight Jacket, all in 4. That said, 3 in the Wax Walker works well and though the chest is a little snug the action back actually makes it doable. I’m 5’9, 160 for my vitals.

When I first put it on I thought it a little long in length, but wearing it out it works great and I’m loving the unique cut/look the more I wear it. Layers well with knitwear. The details make it great and side by side with my wife’s Barbour you can tell/see the difference. Kudos Simon — the perfect coat for the Pacific Northwest and for walking my dog in the evenings as it gets cooler here in Seattle!

Mathis

Simon, great piece!
I have been hoping for something like this from you and Private White.
I have (and love) the Bridge Coat in size 5 and had to let out the sleeves by 3,5-4cm (the most my tailor could do). Do you think the Wax Walker is something for me then, considering what you said about letting out the sleeves? For my Barbour Ashby, I had to extend the sleeves by 10cm, by sewing on a piece of the same cloth – worked well.

Many thanks and keep up the good writing and collaborations,
Mathis

Diego

Incredible product – PWVC were missing something like this. They had a similar style some years ago but now most of their jackets seem to be very short. Which takes me to my question, why did you decide to go for this length as opposed to something longer? I remember reading something from you explaining how a good a rain jacket should be long so the trousers don’t get wet.

Diego

Thanks Simon, makes sense.

Again, lovely jacket.

Matt

Just ordered one, very excited about it. In case you’re unaware, there is a football player in the United States named Wes Welker, so reading this article about the Wax Walker felt a bit like reading about Wes Welker’s superhero alter-ego.

Charlie

Hi Simon

Would you size down to a 3/Small if you didn’t intend to wear this coat over a jacket or suit?

Thanks

Colin

Hi Simon. I would like one of these but am in a bit of a quandary over sizing. I have compared the measurements given against a quilted jacket which is a good fit. Unfortunately this measures just under 60cm at the chest which is almost exactly half way between sizes 4 and 5. I do have a Ventile Trench Coat which is a size 4 and fits ok, but, if I am honest, I might prefer and inch larger. What do you suggest? Thanks colin

Miles

Hi Simon,

I’m in a similar situation and trying to decide between the 4 and 5. I was about to order both but noted in your T&Cs this line:

“If an item is exchanged, duties and taxes do not have to be paid twice. However, if an item is returned the duties and taxes are not refundable.”

I read this as VAT wouldn’t be refunded, can you clarify?

I ended up ordering just the size 4 and figured I would exchange it for a 5 if I decided I needed a bit more room.

Chancellor

I’ve made returns on PS products from Canada, and successfully applied for a refund on duties and taxes. It generally takes a few months and some paperwork, but I’ve been able to get the money back (exception being a ~$10-15 administrative fee that courriers charge to handle the importation; this can’t be refunded).

Hopefully getting a taxes/duties refund is possible in other countries as well.

Penn

Please forgive my transatlantic innocence, but as someone who’s never worn a waxed cotton jacket I’m moved to ask why one would prefer to do so rather than, say, a Loro Piana Storm System jacket. The Wax Walker is certainly quite handsome, but what are the garment type’s advantages other than tradition—and, vs. the Loro Piana Storm System, avoiding having polyester near one’s body? Thanks.

Joe

Wonderful-looking piece, Simon. All your collaborations with PWVC have looked excellent but this appeals to me the most, for reasons I can’t quite put my finger on; maybe the sheer practicality, due to all the things you mention in the article. On that note, do you see this as a viable option as a winter coat/jacket, given the flannel liner and the option of layering underneath (am thinking UK winters)?

Martin

Nice work. You and Private White is already producing so much great stuff on your own, and it’s fantastic to see what you come up with together. Already looking forward to hopefully more pieces.

Thomas

I think it’s funny how, aside from all the relevant style points (and this product does seem to improve on a whole of these), I also learned some very practical points from the website. And one very relevant one is that nothing beats a hat, or even a cap for that matter, when it comes to rainy weather. Which is why I never even noticed this particular jacket was missing a hood, because really it doesn’t, contrary to all I was taught in my youth; because if the goal is to stay comfortable and reasonably dry in the rain, a separate piece of headwear will always beat these ever slippery, ever ill-fitting and never properly adjustable hoods. And for those who don’t believe that, just do what I did once and buy that attachable monstrosity Barbour is selling for its otherwise nice jackets.

Which just goes to say: another great product. I’m looking forward.

Anonymous

Don’t know if I missed it, what size do you take?

Anonymous

Not bad but I still can’t figure out why they use pink/rose gold metal trimmings…

Tobias

love this jacket but tell us more about that vintage indigo scarf please!

Iain W

As a rustic this hits the spot for me. 6’3’ and strictly 42 but wouldn’t mind room for sweater etc…. would you say size 5 or 6?

Thank you

Ian Fraser

Hello Simon, congratulations on another fantastic product! I have a general query relating not to this jacket; you’ve covered a good range of menswear classics with your PWVC collaborations, but I was wondering if you’d considered a non-raglan sleeved overcoat. The reason I ask is that I love your Donegal tweed coat, but I’m very skinny and a raglan coat looks extremely unflattering on me, unfortunately. Do you have any plans to design something of a similar length, and a similarly heavy wool, but with a more conventional shoulder (excuse my ignorance in not knowing what that’s called!). I have a covert coat, which I love, but it’s not substantial enough, and I’m really struggling finding anything out there at all – most of the cloths used are quite lightweight from what I can see. Thanks, Ian

Chancellor

I have a similar challenge, Ian. I’m thin and have extremely square shoulders (was told once I made a Neapolitan jacket look like a Saville Row jacket). The lack of a lapel on the donegal overcoat made me look like a stick when buttoned up, and the raglan shoulders got squared off in a very unflattering way. I loved the collar on the overcoat, but had to return it since the style just didn’t work for me.

However, I’m inspired by the collar and material to have something bespoke done someday in a style that works better for me.

Zanon

I have the ventile trench from Private White and really like it. How does the brown color of this compare to that? It looks darker but hard to tell from the pictures — could be the same.

Thanks!

ZANON

Arrived today. Perfect!

Veit

Very nice work Simon, as usual! A classic menswear piece with a contemporary twist and very body flattering. Many useful details as well and overall a very masculine look. The colour is great too. The only thing I might change is the outer fabric and go with a little heavier waxed cotton. I own the Drakes D-43 made with a Stevenson cotton very close to yours. It’s a nice garment too, but I think there is some room for improvement when it comes to the fabric. Actually PW had a honey coloured waxed cotton jacket not too long ago. That fabric was a little heavier, had a little more body and somehow looked a little more precious. Might take more time to break it in though…

Anonymous

I had been patiently waiting for the return of the PWVC Waxed Twin Track jacket. I wasn’t a fan of the ventilate versions the last couple of seasons. I was also disappointed in Belfast Trail Master that I own.

The Wax Walker is the jacket I was looking for. Unfortunately, I rushed to get the Twin Track on release.

The advantage of the Wax Walker is the thoughtful design. The large bellows pockets on the Twin Track make it decidedly casual. The shoulders, color and clean lines make the Wax Walker more versatile. The cashmere pockets are an added touch that is hard to explain, until you have a jacket with it.

The Wax Walker shares things I like in my other Waxed Cotton Jackets. The removable lining is nice to have, and something not on the Twin Track that I miss that’s on the Belfast.

Ahmed Rahman

Hi Simon,

Congratulations on another fantastic collaboration with PWVC! Great jacket! Quick question though… on the PS Shop the largest size available is a 7. Would you or the PWVC Shop be stocking a size 8 by any chance for the Wax Walker? Sometimes the shop does stock the PWVC size 8 while the PS Shop may not necessarily do so like I discovered when purchasing the Donegal Coat…

Philip

Good morning Simon.
I am a potential new customer. It seems a very interesting take on the wax jacket- respect. I have always resisted a wax jacket but this is tempting.
Ref warmth: if the liner is removed, is this suitable for spring/autumn in the U.K. ?
Also, is there are branding on the outside of the jacket?
Thank you.

KC

Hi Simon,

Great design. Will you do a second run on the larger sizes? They’re soldout.

Nico

Dear Simon,

Very exciting piece !
Quality and great attention on details.
You don’t talk about lengthening the sleeves, do you think this could be possible (1 or 2cm ?)
Thanks a lot

Nick

Hello Simon,

Just the jacket I’ve been looking for!

Of course we’re just about to enter the wrong season for it in the Southern Hemisphere; any tips for storing it for 6 months until next winter?

Cheers,

Nick.

Micheal

Simon, I’ve ordered smalls in your shirts and they fit great in the body but just a tad snug in the shoulders. However I’m still tempted to order the XS because I like a more fitted look. Do you have shoulder measurements by chance. My barbour is 49 in the chest but the shoulders are a little on the tight side. Thanks.

Ben R

Is there in any webbing inside the cuffs, like some Barbour models feature? Or are the cuffs open like a normal jacket (albeit without the buttons).

Also, how do you take the measurements for the body length? Center back up under the collar? I am measuring my Barbour Classic Bedale, I’m getting 72-72.5cm. The other measurements are roughly the same as the small on this Wax Walker. So I was curious how the extra 10-11cm would be.

Ben R

Thanks for the information… any tips on how to measure the sleeve length (or what the starting and end points should be)?

Yes, the Bedale is about the length of my tailored jackets. And combined with the webbing, as you pointed out, it doesn’t work well with a tailored jacket. Though, it’s great in the field on a shoot. The Wax Walker looks like it could slot in nicely when as a good casual alternative to a top coat on those rainy days in the city or with a tweed jacket while out in the field.

Ben R

Thanks. For the heads up and the instructions.

I’ll have to guesstimate the shoulder seam on the Bedale, it’s a raglan sleeve. But I can measure up from the cuff with the length of the Wax Walker and see where that puts it.

Ben R

Would you mind sharing what length tailored jacket you would generally be comfortable wearing under the Medium size? And in general, what are your thoughts on the minimal length difference needed in the top jacket (such as the Wax Walker or Bridge Coat) if wearing over a tailored jacket?

I went thru the Guide to Tailor Styles to get an idea of jacket lengths to compare to the Wax Walker length. They seem to be about 1-2 inches shorter than the Wax Walker. Though there were some exceptions, the Huntsman jacket being only 1/4 inch shorter. Of course that exercise was only as useful as knowing which type of jacket you would wear under the Wax Walker.

Stephen

Received mine today. Super nice coat. Well done.

I used to be a 7 in PW but have lost over 20 kilos this year so went for a 5. It seems to work although the shoulder might be a little tight – am 187cm and 79 kilos so a 6 might have been too large! It works.

Good to see too that the coat is popular. The lining works really well and is much easier to put on than it was for the rain coat. That is even with the wool on the inside. Much nicer overall than my Barbour and it justifies the price premium.

Cooper

Hello Simon

I am curious on your opinion of the Cranleigh boots – I have been on the hunt for a well made hiking boot that strays further away from the American workwear type, but I am concerned about my ability to hike decent distances. Normally, I would wear something like a White’s Boot (smoke jumper), however, they don’t very well suit a more “tailored” look. Is there a boot you would suggest as a good middle ground?

James Redfern

Hi Simon,
You have already sold out of the large size. Will you be getting more stock in soon ..? Please let me know.
Thank you
James Redfern

Andrew Hughes

Hi,

I’ve ordered a pair of Mountain Pass boots by Danner.

Andrew

robert joseph kubek

Hi Simon-
Great coat. Great detailing. Just recently found this site. Very educational. Enjoy your insights regarding high end bespoke European/British tailors. Bespoke is dying in the states outside of NYC. Fortunately I have access to a bespoke tailor from whom I have commissioned about 20 pieces over 15 years. He trained at the knee of probably the last (recently retired) bespoke Italian tailor based in the South. Your posts give me great ideas for future commissions. Thanks for what you do.

Michael A

Impressive.

Unfortunately I gave up on (Barbour) wax jackets because of the lint and fuzz. I see similar complaints from others online.

I really tried to make it work. Brushing, sponge wash, showering, suits bags, hanging outdoors. Some told me it would get better with time. But no. I’m usually not delicate about such things, but too much lint and fuzz to the point where I felt uncomfortable standing next to other people in the supermarket and retail stores where bright, clean illumination is required.

Simon Miles

Personally I would never wear a jacket like this over a tailored jacket and it would be too long for me anyway, although in fairness most men’s outerwear assumes the wearer is at least 6ft tall. Looks beautifully made and offers something different to a Barbour, which makes perfect sense. I would just say what I always say when I see nice clothes that would never fit anyone below average height. I wish you would offer a short fitting. I already know what the answer will be, because it’s always the same. I wish you every success with it all the same.

Mike

I managed to try this on yesterday but it’s slightly long for my preference
From the article, you said it is difficult to shorten? I only want to shorten by a few inches but can see a press stud at the bottom of the jacket….

mike

from your experience and designing this with pwvc, how much length can i shorten then? the salesperson said it was possible but im always skeptical…

Philip

Hello Simon
I am relieved my instincts were correct: having always disliked wax coats I now find myself delighted with yours. Your attention to detail is clear.
A question (forgive me if this displays a lack of intelligence- and it may be of interest to others): will the jacket ‘give’ a little over time. Having measured other jackets I have I opted for a Small. When with the lining, it is certainly fitted across the chest. Will it loosen at all?

Many thanks.

Tamaki

Hi Simon,
Lovely jacket. I always liked the look of a wax jacket as a casual but still stylish outwear, but most felt too biker or to country for me.
As a feedback, I would have found useful for you to take more photos of the jacket in the city, as I don’t have very good imagination and I think that the environment makes significant influence to the overall look. The Donegal background is lovely but I think not very representative of the environment most buyer will find themselves in. The same feedback goes for the Donegal Overcoat.
Cheers!
Tamaki

Alwin van Egmond

Received mine today (it had to come via privatewhite vc, sorry 😉 ).

Really, really pleased with that coat. Tops everything I had in mind for this winter, autumn/spring coat.
Great length, covering my jackets very nicely (has been an issue with other coats).
Strong material, very good weight to it. Warm lining (which will stay in the wardrobe for now).
Plenty of pockets at all the right places and a great outdoor look without being too rural.

I’m so pleased !!!
Great job Simon.

Joe

Hi Simon,

A brief note just to endorse the superb quality and design of this Jacket and to thank you for bringing it to your readers. It is, as you suggest in one of your comments above, an investment piece to be worn over many years. I am delighted with mine. Well done and thanks again..!!

Steve

Hi Simon I have a Private White Twin Track in a dry wax material and I was wondering whether this is similar or is it more like a wet wax? Also after the soaking how long did it take to dry out and is there any smell which can be associated with wax jackets?

Joe

Hi Simon,
My Walker arrived safe and sound, thanks, and I am very pleased with it. A super field jacket-cum-coat. A note on size that may be of interest to others. Knowing my size and body shape, I hesitated between ordering a size 5, or Large in conventional terms, and a size 6, or XL. My hesitation was caused by assuming that a 5 would fit close to the body and a 6 would be too long in arm and body and perhaps a little baggy on the body. My assumption was correct: the length of the size 5 coat is perfect for me, I am 178cm or about 5’8″ tall; the arms of the coat are just a tad too long, but not too long to bother me; and the body fits a little close. With the Walker’s removable lining in, the body fit is too close to wear a jacket but very comfortable with knitwear; remove the coat’s lining and there’s more space for a jacket. With the lining, and a jumper, the coat will keep you quite toasty.
Joe

Pierre

I love it !
Such a pity that I forgot to puchase it while it was still available in Medium.
I will look after an (eventual) restock ?
Simon, I see you wear the EG Cranleigh boots in suede here, but what is your opinion about the Banbury in suede?
I was looking for some winter chukkas but their dainite rubber soles makes me doubt.
Don’t you think it makes them look a bit heavy for a chukka ?
The Connemara also looks nice in suede.
I am delighted with the Shanklin from march to november… but what would be your advice if I were to choose one pair of winter shoes from EG, to wear them with chinos and a wax walker like this (Cranleigh has sold out now) ?
Thanks for your advice.

MB

I have a Banbury in mink suede with a dainite sole. I like it a great deal but I think the Cranleigh and the Galway are both lightly smarter and perhaps a touch more practical for the winter.

Whether to buy the Banbury or order something else, it depends on a lot of factors but I’d resisting ordering something that isn’t quite what you want if you aren’t happy to repeat the analysis next year!

Anonymous

Simon, what do you think of EG’s “London grain” leather? Specifically, I’m considering the newly-released Galways in dark brown London grain (https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/shoes/galway-dark-brown-london-grain-dark-brown-82-last.html) and would much appreciate your thoughts. Thanks in advance.

Per

Hello Simon,
Received my Wax Walker yesterday, and really must add myself to the list of satisfied customers. I instantly knew that this piece will serve me for many years. All the functionalities are on spot. It will be perfect in the mid-Swedish autumns and probably even mild winters.

And maybe to some help for other future customers: Beeing 5 ft 11 inch tall with a 36-ich chest and 17,5-inch shoulder, I opted for the S/3/48, which was a perfect fit with a chunky wool jersey beneath. With the flannel lining facing outward it is too tight to combine with a jacket, but that was never my aim.

Anonymous

Simon, for 2021 are you planning on a variation to the Wax Walker? I got this one and absolutely love it, but would also very much enjoy one in dark olive green (in case you´re looking for alternatives). Keep up the great work!

Chee

Do I need to take the Wax Walker for dry cleaning as I do with suits before storing it away for the summer?

Chee

So all I need to do is just wipe it down with clean cloth and make sure there is no mud on it

Alain Rocheux

Hello Simon,
Just received it and tried it under one of our March’s cold rain showers. Perfect fit and feel. Beautiful looks and quality. Bravo !
Question is, do you think it is possible to ad press studs for locking a cap like Barbour’s ? Any hint on where to get good quality studs that would fit with the Barbour cap ? I know it might kind of ruin the look (with the cap on), but would be an added practical detail. Or any other advise ?
Thanks !
Alain

Martins

my guess is, removable hood.

Alain

Hello Simon,
Yes – a removable hood. Similar to what Barbour offers. Could be also a throat latch. Actually this is probably what I would look into adding. My point was to inquire about the feasibility of adding these studs (and where to source them).

Nate

Do any US customers know approximately how much this costs in dollars, after all of the import duties and so forth? Thanks

Carl

I have ordered the Wax Walker from Private White and am really looking forward to it. I wonder if there is any kind of semi-smart trouser that you could use with it that also have some water resistance. Denim is tough but a pain when it gets wet. And I think the walker is to smart for outdoor clothes from brands like Haglöfs or Lundhags. What kind of trousers would you recommend for at rainy day with the Wax Walker, a water proof bucket hat and a pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers?

Jay

I’ve just got mine and absolutely love it. Thanks for bringing this to everyone, Simon.

Just one thing, it could be that the wax is fresh, but the jacket is a lint magnet. Does this improve over time or is it just one of the traits of a waxed jacket?

Jay