Wax Walker back in stock – and the fit of vintage knitwear

Monday, September 20th 2021
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During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat. 

The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ago, and just over half have sold so far, mostly to the waiting list. But all sizes are still available.

The redesigned Trench Coat, which launched back in the Spring, will be restocked in a couple of weeks; and soon after that we should have the Donegal, in a new grey herringbone. 

Other winter pieces like the Indulgent Shawl Cardigan and the watch caps will also be restocked in a month or two - see the bottom of this post for a full list.

Today, however, it’s the turn of the Wax Walker - that modern and (for me) most flattering version of the classic waxed jacket, launched last year. It has just been restocked and is available here

Unlike the other outerwear, there’s only ever been one set of photos of the Wax Walker, so we thought it would be good to take some more, this time in and around Mayfair.

I think they demonstrate how well the coat switches from rural to urban.

I’ve included some of the images we took in Ireland last year at the bottom of this post, to remind readers of that rural side. But when you’re in town, the dark-brown colour of the wax, and the black corduroy, make it much more harmonious than a green Barbour or its ilk. 

Of course, some people want that contrast between a country coat and a city suit - that’s the point. But for those that don’t, or that need something to be a bit smarter in town, I think the Wax Walker works much better. 

This outfit in particular is a combination for a dark, rainy day in town. 

The roll neck is a black Bryceland’s RAF sweater (although that colour is not on sale at the moment - only navy, red, cream and camel) and the trousers are charcoal flannels, made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in heavy Fox cloth (19oz, FS405 A2069/33). The boots are the Cranleigh from Edward Green in mink suede.

I think this is a good example of how black knitwear can be useful, particularly in a more muted, cold-colour wardrobe. Navy doesn’t quite fit with the palette, cream is too stark, and dark brown would be the same colour as the coat and shoes. 

So black, although not a colour of knitwear worn that often by menswear guys, is a useful alternative - another option that might be already used elsewhere.

With the Wax Walker, black also picks up nicely on the black accents of the jacket: the facing on the collar, and the reinforcements on the ends of the sleeves. 

There’s also something about this shade of dark-brown cloth that feels like it has a black cast to it. A shadowy feel, perhaps, just created by the texture of the waxed finish. 

To exaggerate the effect, I’ve also worn a new black version of our cashmere Watch Cap (above), which will be available in the PS Shop later this Autumn. 

I wouldn’t wear the black cap with a black knit on its own - that would be rather too cat burglar-like - but with the Wax Walker over the top it works well.

And, just as with the knit, black is a surprisingly useful colour to have available as a cashmere beanie or watch cap. It compliments muted shades of everything, from brown to cream to green. 

Above I’ve also included an image of the Bryceland’s roll neck without the jacket.

I did this because I thought it was a good opportunity to demonstrate how flattering vintage-style knitwear can be. 

The Bryceland’s piece is inspired by an old RAF knit, and like those old pieces the ribbing at the waist is both tight and long. This means it folds down easily on top of itself, enabling you to move your upper body without any chance of the knit riding up, and letting in cold air. 

The chest is then cut large, so you could wear layers underneath if you wish. The overall effect is of an almost Atlas-like silhouette: large on top, slim down below. 

I also chose to size up, from my normal 40 to a 42: the slimness of the waist meant I could do so without that becoming too big. 

You can read the full details on the Wax Walker on our original launch post here. That’s always the best way to understand why the product was designed the way it was. 

If anyone wants a quick summary, the key points are:

  • It uses a dark-brown waxed cotton that is not usually seen in waxed jackets, making it unusual but also perhaps more modern and urban
  • It is cut long enough to sit over a tailored jacket
  • The back is designed like a field jacket, with bellows on either side of the back and a half belt. This creates a more masculine look than the normal raglan-sleeve style
  • That's accentuated by the lack of a shoulder seam - the shoulders have one piece of cloth sitting over the top. This looks good but also makes it more waterproof
  • It has a removable grey-flannel liner, making it a good layer for most of the year. The drawstring waist makes it adaptable for layers underneath as well
  • The outer chest pockets are cut into the seams, make them virtually hidden. They’re lined with cashmere
  • It uses British wax, British wool, and was made at the Private White VC factory in Manchester

There’s so much more. My favourite detail is the jersey panel we used across the inside of the back, to keep the bellows perfectly functional. It’s genius, but no one will ever see it. 

As I said, all the details, as well as pictures of me getting soaked, here. The Wax Walker costs £665 + VAT.

For those interested, the other upcoming PS products and restocks are:

And somewhere in there we will also have restocks of the ever-popular Friday Polos and the Selvedge Chambray shirt. It’s a lot isn’t it? Not often that I write it all down like that. 

As per usual, those on the waiting list will get first access, so email the support team if you would like to be on that list ([email protected]). Thank you. 

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Gab

Thanks Simon, always looking forward to these collaborations. Would you tell us a bit more regarding the weight of the upcoming iteration of the Donegal coat. I was under the impression that you were hesitating between several options.

Martins

thank you! so hoping for future return of autumn version in grey.

and hoping not to miss out Vax walker size 6 middle of next week!

Martins

re Donegal. it’s mostly that bridge coat is too warm for me even with just cotton knitwear under in all but couple weeks a year.. so I’d need second coat that’s quite a bit cooler than that, especially if I’d like to wear it over a blazer…

re wax Valker. I’m just getting salary middle of next week. so I’m hoping 6 will still be in stock in pwc by than. asking to keep one aside is not really good because I’d need sleeves shorter quite a bit and according to them first I should try it on in person to see if it’s possible.

Martins

Can I ask if you take same size in all of your private white collaborations? Shop was out of stock so I have to order online. Im happy with size 6 bridge coat. Size 5 trench and Donegal was too small for me when I tried them (mostly in chest/neck area). Soo.. should I order size 6 wax Walker?

Martins

Now the last thing was, I had ooooold discount code from private white. If that doesn’t pan out, I’m ordering from you! But thank you!

Martins

after ordering, I started thinking. how much of “patina” remains after revaxing? let’s say if jacked properly revaxed and taken care of, 10 years from now I hope it will still be good for more than walking a dog or farmers market?

another question… where can I revax it? on release article you were saying there would be some options..

Martins

Just unpacked a nice parcel from private white. Really lovely jacket for those with narrower shoulders, but for me, I’m really, really not sure if I’ll keep it. In my opinion this jacket has a massive design flaw for people with narrower waists. (Bridge coat kind of slim)Yes, you can cinch it. But only at the back. And copper pull thingies are at the front. And inbetween, nothing holds the jacket liner and outer cotton together. So while you are cinching the back, you are bulking up the front. Or you cinch the lining while leaving outer shell in the front almost the same. (If you want I can dm you some pics on Instagram of what I mean)
Unfortunately I don’t think I can size down because shoulders and top 3 buttons are perfect…

Martins

So. Today I popped in private white store and got to try on size 5 (only try on because everything was pre sold). And imagine my surprise when it turned out to be a tad snug on the shoulders/chest but fine otherwise.
Very strangely I have size 6 bridge coat, would require size 6 in trench and Donegal, but vax Walker size 5 seems fine. Not good under jacket or bulky knitwear, but fine exactly how I was planning to wear it!

Straight up placed an order with you!

If size 6 was bulky old mannish jacket and I couldn’t understand what’s so special, size 5 I echo everything you say in launch article. (but I still think cinching half belt could be improved)

Super fast shipping! But strangely 5£ more expensive than private white store (and no “free” shipping)and I had to pay full price..

Chris K

Thanks Simon, the wax walker looking better than ever. I’ll take this opportunity to ask the question you know is coming, will the wax walker be returning (in this same shade) next year? After seeing it again this year, it really seems like a great, clean and modern wax jacket, which kills all of my reservations/connotations around other popular wax jackets. Weimaraner walk friendly as well as city friendly, perfect.

In the interest of building slowly, and focusing on investing wisely, I have prioritised the Donegal raglan this year, I have been waiting patiently! Brycelands RAF roll neck is wicked, works great with the walker, lovely palette in these shots too.

Ck

Chris K

Thanks Simon, it does help. I do realise how much of a silly question it is to ask, on a post which only just relaunches this years version. However, I hope you take compliment in this, knowing readers prioritise new/future PS purchases!

Ck

P.A.

Hi Simon,
Very nice roll neck. Which brands would you recommand for similar vintage cut sweaters ?

P.A.

Thanks, I didn’t know about North Sea Clothing but I definitely love their style.
What is your opinion about Kent Wang ? Obviously not as high a quality as what one may see on PS, but is it still worth it for someone starting the sartorial journey ?

Hugh

I have a North Sea shawl cardigan. It is indeed pretty hefty and rougher, but incredibly warm, and I find the higher and tighter waist to be functional and attractive.

Haackk

Hi.

Will the Bryceland’s roll neck fit under a jacket? How about the Rubato?

Thanks.

Anders

Hi Simon,
Nice having it listed, something to look forward to.
Regarding Dartmoor sweaters, will there be a release with updated collars as on the finest polo?

Il Pennacchio

when you’re in town, the dark-brown colour of the wax, and the black corduroy, make it much more harmonious than a green Barbour or its ilk. 

Of the waxed jackets I’ve seen, the green ones have seemed better suited to the city, though perhaps that’s because the green used is colder than the brown used, and the brown of the Wax Walker is unusually cold.

Il Pennacchio

Ah, the corduroy on the collar of my green waxed gilet is black, which may be why it doesn’t feel that rural. (Also, the rest of the world doesn’t observe the division of country clothing from city clothing to the extent that Britons do, with workwear often bridging the gap between the two.)

Paddy

Hi Simon, the upcoming PS products and restock list is very very helpful!
On that point, what changes are you making for the cromford shearling? Different colour? Or a completely different cut?
can you share what you know so I can see if I should get the current green version or wait for the new colourway/iteration.

thanks

Andy

Hi Simon
what will the new colour be?

Stephen

Hi Simon, Thanks for the update on upcoming PS shop items. Really useful for wardrobe planning.
One question are you planning a PS pop-up shop in the foreseeable future? Recognising of course we live in uncertain times , more than usual anyway!
Also there is a program (not a great one I have to say!) on Sky Max called Wolfe who I think is wearing an iteration of the Donegal coat, not sure which colour or if it is one as the lighting isn’t great. Just thought you may wish to know.
All the best and thanks again for the update.

Stephen

Good news on the PS pop-up, hope it happens.

Max

Hi Simon, please may I ask you for the brand and model of these boots? Thank you

Henry

Hi Simon, please advise me if you ever tried on Anderson Sheppard mid weight cashmere roll neck and if you did what’s your opinion of it? Thx Henry

Maurice

Thank you Simon, for the restock ‘calendar’, plus I couldn’t agree more on the versatility of black woollen beanies! Unfortunately, the PS waiting list system you mention doesn’t always work flawlessly: after the first run of Finest Polos had sold out, I mailed the PS team in order to join the waiting list and received a prompt reply, informing me that I would be alerted in the event of a restock. Now I did find out about the restock in time to buy a polo in my preferred colour and size (just yesterday), but I never got an email. Something to look into, perhaps. Looking forward to receiving my polo nonetheless though!

Maurice

Just sent you an email to elaborate, hope it’s of some use to you.

StuartR

Hi

What colours will be offered on the watch caps? Red hopefully…missed it last time.

Alexander

From which outdoor temperatures downwards do you start wearing the wax walker? I realized it is quite heavy which I am grateful for.
Is it possible to wear it over a worsted suit (maye dark grey) as a high/low combination? I know you yourself would not. I would say with flannel suits it would work nicely.
Thanks!

Matt

Hi Simon. Are your collaborations with PWVC available in their shop on Duke Street? Sorry if you’ve answered this before.

Matt

Thanks Simon, and what a relief! I’m a large man and really need to try things on before I commit to them.

Billy

No restock of Denim shirting fabric??

Oliver

Great piece! Can you do an article on care, or “what to do with that tin of wax they send with it” please?

Peter O

Super fotos!

Colin

Hi Simon….The wax walker looks great paired with the black watch cap, not a colour combination I would have considered! May I ask how waterproof you feel wax cotton, specifically this piece is? I was out in 10 mins of heavy rain the other day and my Barbour was rendered useless with the inside completely soaked!! Thanks

MP

Hi Colin,
If it helps, I wore my Wax Walker whilst out walking in pretty heavy rain for two or three hours earlier in the year, and suffered no leakage/seep through at all. It performed superbly. My chinos below the coat were saturated though!.

Colin

Thanks, good to know

Tony

Love the jacket Simon! Will the grey coat be double breasted or single as the original donegal coat?

Al Thomson

Decisions!! I already own last years Donegal coat, stunning. Depending on colour i may purchase a second. I certainly want the Wax Walker though. Im just unsure of sizing/cut! Im very broad up top with a deep chest. For comparison the Barbour Beaufort which is a more traditional relaxed fit, fits me in an XL (44). Any ideas what size i should buy in the Wax Walker?

Andy

Hi Simon, I have the wax walker and was wondering if tobacco suede shoes will work ?

James

If you only had five coats would be a very helpful article. Are you considering this Simon? Apologies if I’ve missed it

Paul

I’m really looking forward to seeing – and probably buying! – the new version of the Donegal coat this year. My Wax Walker has been resting for many months: it’ll be nice to bring it out of storage again as we get a bit deeper into autumn… like a previous commenter, my clothing budget has chunks pre-emptively allocated to some of the PS collaborations!

I also really love the look of that Brycelands sweater, but wool (outside of merino) can vary enormously in terms of texture; as someone who reacts to (some) wool it could be a bit of a pot-luck kind of purchase – I’m fine with merino, cashmere and e.g. a Rubato camel rollneck, but… That RAF-style Brycelands piece is listed as being lambswool – I’d be really interested in any thoughts about its texture, e.g. have you noticed any itchiness or scratchiness from it?

Paul

Thanks for your feedback, Simon; I haven’t tried the Rubato lambswool (yet). It’s useful to know where things sit on the sliding scale, and that you don’t find this piece too scratchy. Shall ponder.

Gab

Hi Simon, I always felt a bit reluctant to use a short coat as a rain coat. In the countryside, where one can wear boots and needs to be able to move freely it makes sense – but in my opinion much less so in town. I will always favor a coat below the knee for this kind of use (beautiful version though).

Robert

Hey Simon- Just placed my order for the Wax Walker. I so appreciate your effort to source local materials and manufacturers. This is a big deal. This dictates nearly 100% of my clothing purchases. I hope you will continue to do so with the PS offerings. Price is secondary. I will gladly pay up if my voting dollars support a family business, boutique artisan or small mill. Please do continue to hold the line.

Henri

Hello, will the donegal raglan coat have as heavy wool this time? I would buy it in a heart beat if it did. I regret hesitating last year.

Julian

Hello Simon, glad to hear there will be a restock of the Friday polo. Will the light blue polo also be restocked? I am asking because even though I am on the waiting list, customer support told me there was no restock planned in that colour.
Best
Julian

Yash Patel

Hi Simon,
Hope you are well?
Can I clarify please if this is the light blue button down full sleeve polo you are referring to?
If so, will the light blue be coming back via any future restock and which other colours will be coming back in this particular restock?
So I can write in and be added to the correct waiting list.
Many thanks in advance.
Yash

Yash Patel

Hi Simon,

They have been very helpful of late actually, so will send over this question to them shortly.

Thanks for the response and keep up the outstanding work and great new products.

Yash

Alan

Hi Simon, are you willing to volunteer the new color for the indulgent cardigan? Want to make sure I don’t buy that color from another maker beforehand. Thank you!

Michael

PWVC once before had a “Cottenham” wax jacket on sale. Actually also a very good choice for the autumn. 
Is this newer version significantly warmer due to the flannel lining? Maybe that’s why it’s worth an update for me. 

Robert

Hey Simon-
Received my coat in the US last week. DHL front door delivery. Paid $100 US tariff via my iphone. Kudos to DHL seamless international delivery service. Have worn coat several times in our southeast rains. The beautiful copper hardware contrasts nicely with the rich brown fabric. Zippers are smooth. Love the “Made in Manchester” detailing on the copper snaps with cross insignia. Chest pockets and inside glove pocket deep so stuff is secure.Corduroy on the sleeves prevents wrist chafing. To help others with sizing I am 178 cm (5’10”) and 61 kg (135 lbs).Trim but somewhat broad shoulders. I wear 48 Eur. I ordered the small (48/3). The sleeve length and body are just right. The coat is a little snug in the armpits with a light pullover sweater (with lining in). Not sure I could comfortably wear it with a suit jacket. A couple extra cm’s in the armpits or shoulders would be welcomed. I am most excited about the button-in liner which my local bespoke tailor will use as a template to whip up some more colorful linings when the mood suits me. A real heirloom piece. Great coat. Thanks Simon.

Rob

Hi Simon, do you think the wax walker would work as an everyday, go-to jacket, rather than just for rainy days/walks in the park?

To give some context, i have the bridge coat for colder weather and generally wear linen overshirts in the summer. So i am looking for a versatile option inbetween these. Do you think the wax walker would work in this way, or would a wax jacket me too much of a statement/’look’ on a daily basis?

Thank you!

Matt

Hi Simon. Looking back at this article wasn’t there a photo of you wearing a tailored jacket under the coat? I felt like that was a good one at showing the functionality.