I don’t generally like peak lapels on single-breasted suits. They aren’t necessarily wrong – although notch lapels are far more common, only the relatively inexperienced will tell you it is a ‘rule’ that SBs must have notch lapels (or indeed black tie have peak lapels). Have a look back through some 1930s stills or films and you will find plenty of evidence to the contrary.
But peak lapels, for me, often look short and stubby on a single-breasted jacket. More like little bat wings than long, elegant fins. On a double-breasted, the crossover allows the lapel a crucial few inches more, echoing the smart military style of a sash or cross-belt.
The image of Gary Cooper above I think illustrates the point. Part of the problem is that these old suits had a higher buttoning point – where the waist button, the top of a two-button suit, fastens. They were cut with that point on the natural waist, just below the ribs, where the trousers also sat. That leaves less room for lapel.

High-street retailers still retain a high buttoning point sometimes, as shown in the Reiss suit opposite. But below, you can see the difference of just an inch or so, in an Armani suit being worn by Kobe Bryant. And it’s no coincidence that peak lapels were often cut for more formal, three-piece suits like the grey Bryant wears. As these may have been worn open more often, the lapel has rather more freedom.
Finally Gianluca Bocache, of the shop Sartoria Ripense in Rome, shows how the buttoning point can work well in a custom-made suit. I repeat that I don’t like peak lapels and I still think this would look better as a notch, but if you’re going to do it, then give the lapel a little more length.
Bryant images: GQ. Bocache image: The Sartorialist
I disagree. What really matters is the width of the lapel. If peaked lapels are narrow, they won’t look stubby even with a high button. On the other hand, if the peaked lapels are wide, they will look strange with either high or low buttons. With high buttons, they will look short and stubby. With low buttons, they will look loose and flappy.
The natural width of a lapel is the width it would be if it actually buttoned all the way up to the neck, instead of folding over. In the 30s, when lapels looked short and stubby, they were significantly wider than that. To look sleek and pointed, a peak lapel needs to be cut a little narrower than natural width. To look full and luxurious, as if showing off that the wearer has cloth and style to spare, they can be cut wider (something that’s hard to do with a notch lapel). Hence, the 30s look.
That’s certainly a factor Matthew, but for me even a narrow short lapel looks unbalanced
I think that they look better with wide lapels. Look at the Edward Sexton suits. I think they look fantastic.
/Anders
I don’t like them in general – they look too comical on a single breasted suit.
I had a lovely one button, single breasted, peak lapel jacket made by John Kent for my wedding. When done well (like mine, but I’m biased!), I think it looks great.
I was going to mention actually, Chris, that my linen suit from John has a good low buttoning point. Notch lapel, but could have worked with peak possibly. Post on that on Friday
Simon
SC– Could not agree with you more!!! Your first sentence sums it up.
If one thinks about the origins of a jacket buttoned at the collar, SB with a peak lapel makes no sense. You have only to visualize the line of lapels closed and buttoned to see what an awkward line it would create. –John
Hello Simon,
Just FYI, Ripense and Gian Luca parted their ways. Gian Luca has opened a new store on his own (Bocache Salvucci) that is totally independant from Ripense. The latter has developed a new partnership with another shoemaker.
And to relate more to the topic, I do like single breasted peak lapel jackets as they offer another style, very chic, albeit less formal
Interesting, thanks Paul. I haven’t been in a while
Simon,
Interesting post and spot-on, in my opinion. I have an RLPL 3-piece (my favorite suit), but it only works (in my opinion) because of the lower button stance that allows more room for the lapels to “develop”.
On the other hand, I still appreciate the beauty of the lines in the 1930s version which is lovely to look at when done right, bat-wings and all. I did a post last year highlighting George Raft’s 3-piece SB with peaked lapels in Night After Night. Some of the touches are dated, but it still exudes a certain elegance (the high-waisted trousers, high button placement, high arm-hole positions, etc.)
http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2011/05/george-raft-americas-lost-sartorial.html
Dan F.
Hi Simon, I would like to add a small point to your anaysis above. I agree with you that peak lapels on single-breasted jackets are perfectly legitimate and very nice in theory, but the result is very often less flattering than expected, and you have already listed the reasons for that. One additional thing that I have noted, should one want to go for the peak lapels, is that on a single-breasted jacket they tend to work better with an Italian-style, rolled-lapel cut, where the movement of the rolled lapel helps giving a bit more plasticity to the lapel itself, all the way up to its peak. There is a memorable illustration of this on Alan Flusser’s “Dressing the Man” book, in a grey plaid suit worn by Douglas Fairbanks Jr.:
http://www.2dosesaday.com/post/12869202593/douglas-fairbanks-jr-gary-cooper-from-alan
Alex
Hi Christopher, could you possibly post a picture of your one button, single breasted, peaked lapel suit. I ‘m looking to get a similar one from John.
Thanks
If it was good enough for the circa 1928-37 period, it’s good enough for me. I can’t say that I see anything worthwhile in the past sixty years’ worth of men’s suits–it’s all just rehashing and copying various decades. The late 1920’s/early 1930’s are a darn sight better than all the Beatles wannabes walking around the past few years. This too shall pass.
Would you apply the same logic to black tie and, therefore, have a preference for a shawl collar on a single breasted dinner jacket?
No, black tie has its roots in peaked-lapel formal wear, and is more appropriate there both for that reason and its style
No, black tie has its roots in peaked-lapel formal wear, and is more appropriate there both for that reason and its style
Hi Simon is a rolled lapel easily achieved with linen? I’m about to commission a sports coat and really want a “nonchalant appearance”.
Yes, certainly
Hi Simon,
I’d posit that as with anything in tailoring, a peaked lapel, single breasted jacket’s taste, shall we say, is entirely dependent upon its proportions. I’ve had some great ones, and some mediocre ones. I would also say that the gorge point of the collar plays into the equation just as much as the breadth of the lapel, and the fastening point of the coat.
I am also curious, if 7 years later, you still hold the same opinion, or if it has softened or reversed. Do tell!
As a final note, as I love to wear sack cut suits and coats, and exclusively do so, I find that I have an affinity for fish mouth lapels on my coats, and I would be very interested in yr doing a piece upon that subject, or commissioning a coat with such a detail as it is a fascinating subtle gradation, particularly in evening wear or formal wear, where it’s unexpected aplomb can be quite….fun.
As always, love the insight and the perspective. Talk soon, Sir1
Thanks.
I pretty much agree with this still, but you’re right those variations make a big difference.
For fish-mouth lapels, by the way, perhaps see my Camps de Luca suit – posts during and reflecting on later
Hi Simon,
I can’t believe that I’d forgotten about yr Camps de Luca! That one did indeed have a svelt lapel! I’m going to go refresh my memory in a moment! I always love the subtle and tertiary, whether it be in colour or cut. I think it is more refined, typically as good taste, to me, is always about subtlety and nuance.
By the by, upon that same relative subject, my DB which is scheduled to be completed as by the 26th or earlier, has a subtle peak, which if fastened high enough would be a pseudo fish-mouth lapel, but if allowed to roll, should be more upwardly angled, as such lapels were originally cut to be. At least that is how it appeared in the original source image from Brooks Brothers which I submitted to my tailor. I assume that they will replicate it exactly as they have done with all of my other commissions.
I’m planning on my next suit being a sandy gray shaggy flannel or Shetland twill in the same colour as a 3 piece SB sack with a fish mouth lapel, and a DB peak lapelled waistcoat copied from my Edwardian DB Morning waistcoat which I am presently restoring, sans the braided lapel trim, of course. I think it will be quite tasteful. I am thinking of a 13 to 15 oz fabric for this one. I may commission it when I get my annual bonus or annual raise. Ha! After that will be a heavy Irish linen SB sack cut 3 piece with a belted and shirred action back in natural cream and peaked or fish mouth lapels on the coat with notched lapels on the waistcoat and fish tail belt backed trousers.
Yrs Truly – just to rant, on clothes,
E.
Hi Simon, any updates on your thoughts on this? I was always of the same thinking as you with regards to peak lapels on a single breast but i find myself strangely drawn to it all of a sudden and am thinking of perhaps getting one. Do you own any yourself?
I don’t Liam, no. I wouldn’t say I mind them at all, though, and they can look great.
I think the danger is that they can look a little rakish and flash. If everything else is quite conservative (eg lapels not too wide, not a loud material, not a super-tight cut etc) then it can work well.
Dear Sir

I hope it is appropriate that I ask you this question here.
At the moment I am thinking of buying a three-piece suit in gray, but I am unsure which would be better, peak or notch lapels. Because the one with peak I would have to have made and since I am still growing that would be rather bad. But what would speak for the peak lapel is that I like three-piece with peak lapel, besides, I have a vest in fawn, which has a peak lapel, so I could not combine the gray suit, if i choose a notch lapel with it. And also something that would speek for the peak lapel is that 2 three piece suit that i own have both peak lapel (one in navy the other in the fawn coler) and if would buy new waist coats, that would fit the gray, navy a fawn coler suits, it must have a shawl lapel or no lapels correct?
Against the peak lapel would speak that 2 piece or a sport coat with it looks not very timeless correct?
(in the attachment i will send you the links two my Inspiration suits)
best regards
Flurin Vogt
Anzug Max – ANTON MEYER
Hi Flurin,
Given what else you already have, I would be inclined to say get a notch lapel suit. It will give you more options and be more conservative – easier to make interesting with the other things you wear it with. The other suits with the waistcoats, and indeed the first link, seem pretty dandy and not the kind of thing you might get that much longevity out of.
It also depends on your lifestyle and what you wearing these suits for, of course. If you wanted to add any more information there, please do so.
Dear Mr Crompton
Thank you very much, could you maybe give me some tips about the waistcoat lapel. I’m planning on wearing more waistcoats in the future but I was wondering what would be better peak or notch lapels, or would both peak and notch lapel suits work?
Best regards
Both can work. I do know what you mean about peak lapels with a waistcoat, that is nice. Personally I’d go for something a little less showy though, like a jacket with notch lapels and waistcoat with no lapels perhaps
Thank you very much, I hope you will excuse me for asking you another question, would you say that a waistcoat with a notch lapel, for example, would go with a suit with a pointed lapel? Or would that look strange.
Best regards
It could do. I would just go with a waistcoat with no lapel – it’s so much easier to combine, and is much more likely you’ll carry on wearing it for longer
Thank you very much for this kind of answers.
Hi Simon,
In the most recent John Wick film, Bill Skarsgard wears several single breasted three-piece suits with peak lapels. The lapels on these suits are very short, reaching the edge of the collar or protruding just slightly beyond that point, making them seem almost like a disconnected shawl collar. Is there any precedent in classic menswear for this design choice? What are your thoughts on such a design? It’s certainly an interesting look if nothing else.
I’m not sure of historical precedent but I’ve certainly seen it before, it’s not too unusual a design.
Personally it’s a little too unusual for me unless it was a suit that was intended for a definite look and unusual for that reason
“only the relatively inexperienced will tell you it is a ‘rule’ that SBs must have notch lapels”
I am tempted to have at least one english cut linen SB suit with peak lapels, the colour might be burgundy. It is something I don’t wanna regret though. What do you think Simon? Or Should I just stick with notch lapels? Thanks in advance
Stick with notch if you’re unsure Iqbal, definitely. Though burgundy also sounds pretty racey – maybe you’re after a stronger or more flash style?
Not a big fan of burgundy either, but it is one of my mother’s fav colours
On her or on you?
I just started my classic man’s wear journey and I would like to include burgundy which is one of her fav colours. So that’s why I am thinking of either linen or fresco burgundy suit to get. To be honest, I am very unfamiliar with this colour. All I know about this colour is that you can definitely wear black or dark brown shoes with a burgundy suit
I would be very cautious Iqbal. If you’re going to try burgundy, do it in a way that isn’t the most expensive. It’s not an easy colour to wear well at all, and not the most versatile for someone beginning their journey.
I remember getting an Ozwald Boateng purple suit when I was young thinking how great it would be great – but it was not easy at all! Took me a long time to give up the dream on that one.
No worries, I’d start with top 3 first which are navy, charcoal grey, and of course the aqua blue blazer one and on the other hand the burgundy one might be my 4th suit. But thank you for the heads up Simon! I know the risk
Hi Simon, great post. Surely worth thinking about. Normally I go for a notch lapel on SB jackets too, but recently I indulged and commissioned a charcoal 3 piece suit from JMM in Paris – generous SB peak lapel jacket and a SB notch lapel waistcoat. Absolutely beautiful. The word JM used to describe it was “masterpiece”. The understated dark charcoal colour combined with the flair of the lapels is striking without being over the top. Love it. All best wishes, Alex
Cheers Alex, and interesting commission
Hi Simon,
I must have missed this post.
Personally I love DB lapels on a single breasted jacket, although I don’t wear a suit for work, whenever possible I wear a suit, either with a tie or polo depending on on the occasion.
If I recall, your suit from Joe Morgan has DB lapels and to my my mind it’s one of your best suits,
Regards
Stephen
Thank you Stephen. We will be updating this post soon actually, with Manish looking at peak-lapel su
Thank you Stephen. We will be updating this post soon actually, so look out for that discussion