Clothes for long haul (City Mocs, Bryceland’s swe...
I usually only ever wear sweatpants in two scenarios: one, at home, as something closer to pyjamas; and two, with actual sports clothing, such as travelling to the sports club in winter. Over the last couple of years however, Lucas and I have done ...
Clothes for long haul (City Mocs, Bryceland’s swe...
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Thanks John, yes I know those - I'm on a waitlist for when they come into Trunk! So pleased to hear they're that good. Boat shoes with smarter things like linen trousers is a tricky one. The Barth I think is a little too...
Saman Amel made-to-measure overshirt: Review
When Saman Amel introduced overshirts - or shirt-jackets as they call them - a couple of years ago I was interested to try one. Not many people do made-to-measure for simpler things like overshirts, and so for the more luxe-oriented customer there w...
Saman Amel made-to-measure overshirt: Review
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It is actually, I sometimes do that under tailoring like this, though not all the time. Also when it's just cold! It's hard to control really - showing the belt that is - but if the hem is sitting up above the belt, ridi...
The vibe of the summer: Lucas’s moodboard S/S 2025
Lucas is a great ‘moodboarder’, much better than me. Where my outfit choices are often driven by individual pieces - their craft and materials - and working outwards to an outfit, Lucas is often the opposite, starting with style inspirat...
The vibe of the summer: Lucas’s moodboard S/S 2025
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Thanks Liam I am glad you found it useful! Often these things are about hitting the timing right and that will be different for everyone! I'm glad you revisited it!...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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I may have been lucky, but the only time I bought a pair of second hand shoes I didn't have any problems with this....
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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Thanks so much - that’s incredibly useful....
The ultra-service at Saman Amel
I’ve been really interested to see how Saman Amel have changed their business model in recent years. They’ve made a conscious decision to offer a far more involved service to customers, which is then reflected in their prices. The cheape...
The ultra-service at Saman Amel
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I don't, but to be honest I wouldn't place much importance on them if I did. Factories are not brands - they can make different qualities as well as styles for different people...
Buck Mason, Novesta, New & Lingwood: Spring ‘...
Our seasonal summary of things I’ve seen and liked rolls around again, and as ever is a good mechanism to answer questions about new products from established brands, such as the City Moc from Saman Amel (above). But it’s also, by design...
Buck Mason, Novesta, New & Lingwood: Spring ‘...
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Old Armoury ones, no longer available I'm afraid...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
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My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...
Swedish craft companies playing the long game: Sv...
By Dag Granath Something that’s true for most – if not all – companies covered by Permanent Style is that they aspire to create something that stands the test of time. Two of my favourite Swedish companies outside menswear have th...
Swedish craft companies playing the long game: Sv...
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Most certainly. It is something worth bringing up with them. For good or bad, many international customers find their way to MMF via interior architects which means they rarely connect personally with the company....
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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I probably haven't done it often enough Mark, but I think most are robust enough...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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A little, but I was thinking more the material, as the linen for a piece like this would be more a tailoring-type linen and quite sharp...
Smart/casual and high/low: How to dress like Oliv...
I was surprised when I realised we hadn’t ever featured Oliver Dannefalk in our ‘How to dress like’ series, given I’ve admired his style for years, particularly since he launched Rubato with Carl Pers. I assume...
Smart/casual and high/low: How to dress like Oliv...
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Thank you Paul, that's very helpful. I'll add it now...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for ra...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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If it's really cold, a down parka. If less so, then yes a waxed jacket or something like a McCoy's deck jacket...
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
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I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. So one of the nice things ab...
Reader profile: Manish
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Indeed it does. Thanks so much!...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*NOTE: This article has now largely been superseded by the 2025 piece ' Who are my favourite made to measure tailors?' Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good r...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Hi Martins, Many thanks for your comments here!...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
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Hopped over here from your Saman mention in the comments thread of your latest cotton sweater post. Wow, this is really, really nice. A distinct V neck that's not too snug and not too deep. The sweater has heft, but stil...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I'd just avoid synthetics whenever I could - I prefer natural materials like a ventile or waxed cotton. Nylon would be very practical though...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t. Implicitly, this defines our values. It re...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
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Thanks Markus. I don't think it's so much a question of location - the Italian tailors I use, and brands I respect, would also not fit that tight or short. And many English brands go for the tight/short look. Good point ...
Postcard from Stockholm
So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do sanitise their hands frequently, an...
Postcard from Stockholm
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No, sorry Stefan, it’s never really been a focus of the site. I also don’t usually have the money to spend on luxury places!...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise a point that’s often mi...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
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I appreciate your thoughts and I agree. The trousers are always too oversized for my taste, but the knits are lovely. Jackets are nice too but I often need to size down....
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a few outfits of his...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
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Love the penny loafers worn barefoot! Very hot look...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
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If you like the style and nothing else really works in the same way, then yes I think it's good. I'd go for wool I think. I'm not sure you'd notice much difference for 500 extra...
The polo shirt under knitwear
I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
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I'm so sorry, I got mixed up between articles - I thought you were asking on today's article about the Finest Crewneck. (I see all comments come in on a feed, rather than on specific articles, and missed the article refe...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...
The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a suit, but not in a polo either)...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...
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Thank you very much for immediate response!...

























