Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern aesthetic

Wednesday, September 6th 2017
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Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light.

This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are more likely to compare them to a physical shop.

And it’s something even tailors should try to remember - rather than assuming their reputation is sufficient to pull people to any old room in any old hotel. 

When Saman Amel visited London for the first time last month, they had clearly thought about the space.

The rack of jackets and suits was carefully hung; the sweaters and polos were all precisely folded and presented.

It was a nice set up, with light streaming in from both sides of the second-floor space.

And in many ways it was a neat metaphor for Saman Amel itself.

Set up in 2010 by friends Saman Amel and Dag Granath in Stockholm, the brand has developed an enthusiastic local following for its made-to-measure tailoring, ties and knitwear.

The aesthetic is simple, muted and refined.

You could call it Scandinavian, but that would be to pigeonhole something that, in a digital age, can never be so restricted.

Rather, it feels modern. Dressed-up tailoring that isn’t corporate; fine knitwear that isn’t fancy or fussy. Cuts that are pretty traditional (particularly jacket length) but still contemporary in their styling.

It isn’t a unique look. But it does seem to be one that is being well-executed - and as of last month, is now available in London for the first time.

When I arranged to meet Saman and Dag, I was planning to try the made-to-measure knitwear.

I’ve tried a few MTM services for knitwear over the years, and it usually hasn’t worked well (Loro Piana, Simone Abbarchi).

I was hoping, therefore, to find somewhere I could regularly order knitwear from, in a tweaked fit. I also liked the styles - such as the tennis sweater (pictured at the bottom of this post).

But I became interested in the tailoring too when I realised the top line, ‘Napoli’, has a hand-padded lapel (from £2200, pictured on me above).

There are several other points of handwork, but it is the hand padding that sets this Saman Amel line apart from most of the rest of the MTM market.

I do not pretend to cover made-to-measure comprehensively, unlike bespoke, but I’m always interested in things that can incorporate aspects of bespoke - such as individual patterns, hand cutting, or hand padding.

And if the fit of this Napoli jacket I’m being measured for is good, it is of course a partial recommendation for their cheaper line, ‘Toscana’ (from £1400), which is not hand-padded but has everything good RTW should have (eg hand-attached collar) and hand finishing (eg buttonholes).

Dag is wearing the Toscana line, below.

When I was fitted, Saman’s approach was impressive. Of course, this doesn’t necessitate a well-fitting garment, but it’s a good start.

Saman (below) took about half an hour to measure my body, looking carefully at the slope and pitch of the shoulders, the collarbone, the back shape and posture.

And he then took similar measurements on a ready-made garment, with Dag taking notes on his laptop the whole time.

This was by some way the most involved measuring session I’ve had for a made-to-measure garment.

Saman studied for three years in Sweden in an institute called Tillskärarakademin, which translates as Academy of Cutting.  

Like many such courses, fashion and design was a big part of it, but there was some extended study of fit and cutting techniques, which Saman initially used to develop dresses that gained him some attention.

In his second year he started making his own shirts and tailoring, staying away from high fashion. And in his third year started the project that became Saman Amel.

Saman then worked for J.Lindeberg, becoming their head of MTM for Europe. So he has quite a bit of experience with tailoring - but neither he nor the brand refer to themselves as tailors.

I opted for a brown three-button single-breasted jacket, in Loro Piana Prince-of-Wales-check cashmere, with patch pockets and a welt outbreast pocket.

 

In the knitwear, I went for a half-zip sweater in brown cashmere (above).

The Saman Amel ready-to-wear fit is actually pretty good for me in the knitwear, being a little slimmer and a little shorter than most. But we still slimmed it a touch more.

You can get an idea of the range of Saman Amel designs on the website, by the way, which sells ready-made knitwear and ties.

As with everything else, it’s simple and muted colours: cream, taupe and brown, alongside the classic grey, navy and black. With minimal patterns.

I’ll be very interested to see how the jacket and knitwear turn out (Saman and Dag are back in London from November 1-2).

I know readers are always keen to have lower-priced tailoring options reviewed; and I know many are equally excited about brands that combine classic ideas of fit with modern, younger styling.

It is that style that separates Saman and Dag from the cheaper bespoke tailors, by the way. And as I’ve said so frequently, style is something bespoke tailors underestimate at their peril.

Pricing list for London:

  • Napoli suiting from £2200
    • Jackets from £1800
    • Trousers from £550
  • Toscana suiting from £1400 (which makes up the majority of their business)
    • Jackets from £1100
    • Trousers from £350
    • Shirts from £280
    • Overcoats from £1300
  • Business suiting from £1200 (same as Toscana but with very limited, stock cloths)
  • Knitwear, MTM cashmere from £450
    • MTM cotton from £250

More images from the Saman Amel lookbooks available on their website, here.

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

samanamel.se

Contact: [email protected]

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JohnnyDeVore

You mention you weren’t entirely satisfied with Knitwear from LP an SA. May I ask why?
I tend to buy knitewear at cheap places like Boggi or SuitSupply, because they A. fit me fine and B. are about a quarter of the price of what I’d pay elsewhere. I rather spend that Money on one Bespoke Sportcoat more per year, or a pair of Saint Crispins.

Momo

Been following them for quite some time on instagram, impressive. Will try to pay them a visit this autumn.

John

Finally! I have only heard good things about them.

DKP

Simon – In the second photo of you with Saman, your collar caught my eye. It’s so well proportioned and stands perfectly. What can you tell of the shirt and specifically, how you directed the tailor when it came to the collar?

Rabster

Given some of this is MTM the prices will still be north of what many of us can afford.
Is there much good MTM at below £1000 prices ?

Maybe that’s the challenge for you now ?

James

Hi Simon, any appetite for covering more Spanish tailoring? I only ask as I know that Camiseria Burgos & Lopez Aragon do MTM jackets at well under £1,000. I had a hopsack Teba made up by LA earlier this summer for about €360 and it’s just perfect to throw on with chinos and a button-down collar shirt in the summer.

Carl

I would take one step up and try the business line from Saman Amel. The number of available cloth are limited but you can always find a mid-weight navy or grey.

Peter K

It might be useful to look at other blogs that review lower price MTM. The Modest Man (US based) has reviewed some MTM companies.

Oliver

Simon,

The made to measure knitwear sounds very promising; I will be very interested to hear your views when the full review arrives.

Any (initial) thoughts on how the quality of the cashmere compares to, say, Luca Faloni? Do Saman Amel also offer knitwear pieces in wool?

O

JB

I have the half zip model you’re trying on in lambswool, picked it up last fall along with a navy overcoat. Very happy with both, will certainly return for more. I hope they will return with wool offerings again, it’s easily the best and most luxurious wool offering I’ve tried.
They even took it in after some change in weight and it came back looking brand new. Being shy of 2 meters tall with long arms, MTM knitwear is gold.

StJames

I have a few shirts, suits and knits from these guys and they are always spot on. Style is subtle yet striking and fittings are conducted really carefully and with an attention to detail unlike any other makers i’ve tried.

Looking forward to having more stuff made!

Peter K

Good to hear. I was wondering if the care shown in Simon’s fitting was due to his reputation and the prominence of Permanent Style.

Good to know similar care is shown for us less prominent types!

H

Apologises for adding to the inevitable (and probably tiresome) comments proposing other cheaper options that appear on any piece you write about makers at the lower end of your spectrum; I’m wondering if you have managed to lend your eye to Trunk’s own brand MTM?

As I understand it their entry-level offer is made in Italy from Ariston wools – starting at £900 for a 2-piece or £700 for a jacket with Loro Piana or Fox Brothers about £300 more.

I’m wondering if you think this is a sensible place for a (relatively) recent graduate to pick up 3-4 business suits over the course of a year, if willing to accept a reduction in quality from an entry level bespoke option in order to access the higher level of style/design of MTM.

If not, what would be your recommendation around the £800-£1,200 mark?

DKP

Simon, I thought you’d recommended Whitcomb & Shaftesbury before and they’re at that price point aren’t they?

David Man

And the likes of Graham Browne and Choppin & Lodge? Both bespoke but your preference would be Saman Amel due to design and/or fit? Interesting to get a comparison. Thanks

Anonymous

Within the same price range (starting price of about £1700), I recommend Henry Herbert for full bespoke.

If you look outside London, I’m sure you will find a few bespoke tailors who fit your budget.

I am not a rich man, so I understand everyone’s concerns here. The way to do it is to skimp on unnecessary expenses and focus on the essentials: your suit should fit, and the material should be high quality. Until you are financially comfortable, you can skimp on the things that don’t really matter: underwear, watches, sunglasses, even shirts (since the only bits that are seen are the cuffs and collar). And save money by staying away from pubs and expensive restaurants. If there’s one thing you should skimp on it’s food (now there’s ephemeral investment if ever I saw one).

H

Thanks Simon for your quick reply to my previous comment (and also all the work you do on this invaluable blog, which I forgot to thank you for previously).

Just to follow up, do you think it would be better to be buying 2-3 suits from Thom Sweeney / Saman Amel / Eidos over the course of a year, or 3-4 from Trunk over the same period – if trying to quickly build a working wardrobe broadly from scratch over that time? I have two Gieves RTW suits which are falling apart a little, have to wear a suit every day, and am rapidly having to spend more time with clients.

Shooting for the stars and getting a single Cifonelli per year seems a little ludicrous, so there is obviously a balancing act to be had between quality and quantity – and I’m struggling to decide where it lies. Obviously the question is the question is rather subjective, perhaps it deserves a post in itself…

PS. Did you omit P. Johnson because the style isn’t suitable for business or because you wouldn’t recommend them?

PPS. If it helps other readers trying to understand why reason I’m not looking at bespoke, its because I am after something suitably modern for someone in their mid-20s (although suitably classic for facing clients decades older, not skinny high-street lapels or chest-high Suitsupply buttoning points).

There are a number of bespoke tailors Simon has mentioned on this site who can cut such suits (Rubinacci, Thom Sweeney, Gieves, Cifonelli, Liverano etc). There are also a number of bespoke tailors who I could sensibly afford (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Graham Browne, Manning & Manning etc). Unfortunately there is no overlap between the two, hence my personal preference for the modern design aesthetic of mid-level MTM over the craft of entry level bespoke.

H

Thanks very much again, apologises for the mini-essay by the way.

Will take a second look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

Anonymous

Interesting. Can’t say I’ve had the same experience. Was this a long time ago? I can’t find the review.

ignatius

I’ve been a customer for years, and I have a suit, a few pairs of trousers and some knitwear. I highly recommend their products.

DKP

Simon – in the final photo of the three of you, is that jacket not far too short for you? Was it merely to demonstrate the style of the jacket?

Joseph

Egad! I must’ve been seeing things, Simon. I was pretty convinced that was your herringbone cashmere from F Caraceni.

It’s not as prominent as before, but a sizeable chunk of the curiosity regarding your posts is centered on what you wore when the photos were taken. As a tangent to that, you’ve also shared instances when your hosts commented on the craftsmanship put into your outfit. Any such remarks from Saman and Dag for what you wore during the fitting?

Joseph

Agreed, I do see what you mean about the jacket-trouser combination. That, or something about the trousers seems too saturated for the navy.

I rather admire the equal opportunity you provide for new and old pieces to be worn.

john

Simon, I am a little confused. Your reports on W&S were by and large very positive yet you suggested that your end of piece comments on bespoke tailors underestimating style at their peril was aimed largely at them and tailors like them. Could you possibly expand on that please?

Anonymous

Intelligent nonsense.

If youre not looking for bespoke craftsmanship, then you have a free hand. Then its about what looks good, suits youre need for the item/ensemble, wears well and makes you feel comfortable.

Then you are free to buy at any price point, and any sense that it has to be a certain price to be OK is misplaced.

Anonymous

But unless you are a difficult fit, why would you buy a cashmere sweater here instead of Faloni at half the price?……………………

James

I was just thinking of this. Simon – please use all of your influence to emplore Luca to do a half-zip. I absolutely love both a half-zip with a shirt and Luca’s work, so this would make me a very very happy customer.

Simon

So out of interest, with a RTW Thom Sweeney suit (as an example) being circa £1300 plus the cost of alterations, what’s the advantage of spending your money there over and above Saman Amel or W&S?

As a slightly separate but linked point would you say that in clothing and footwear it’s harder to discern what is good value and what isn’t, compared to other areas of life, with there being so many related points, i.e. craftsmanship, style, design etc. etc and at the end of the day it more often than not comes down to opinion as opposed to fact?

i.e. you feel that the extra money in getting fit just right justifies the cost of MTM knitwear, whereas most others on here seem not to, and instead choose to spend their money on other items where bespoke/MTM makes a more noticeable impact?

As a fairly new reader, I have found this to be such an informative website, so thank you for your work.

Simon

Thanks for clarifying. So in terms of fit, the latter two would presumably be preferable, assuming you are willing to wait for the end product.

Trying to plan a first foray in to MTM/bespoke as an upgrade from RTW as I tend to wear a suit every day for work.

The value for me in upgrading is clearly fit, as I assume there is very little difference in the quality of fabric in good RTW vs MTM or bespoke.

Simon

Thanks for the pointer, useful and interesting reading,

The difference in the make meaning that something bespoke should last/look better for longer?

I think my question largely echo’s what ‘H’ is asking, albeit I’m probably moving towards W&S as I think I’ll get better use out of it over a longer period of time, and am happy with slowly improving my RTW wardrobe.

If only I could avoid the lure of the Mr Porter sale, saving up would be easier!

Adam Jones

interestingly as well is that (when I was having my bespoke suit made) I noticed that Thom Sweeney’s MTM was only a small uplift on the RTW compared to many of the places I checked out. I think MTM started around £1350 for a two piece in house cloth about 18 months/ 2 years ago and back then a two piece in house cloth was only about £1250/£1300 in the same Weighouse wool on Mr Porter

Andreas Weinås

I commissioned a tan cotton suit (similar to your Elia Caliendo) from their Napoli line earlier this year and I’ve got to say that it’s one of the best fits I’ve experienced. Not cheap but in terms of craftsmanship it’s definitely a great value. I just ordered my second piece which will be a tweed sports coat for fall.

Robert Richards

Hi Simon,

Most of my cashmere sweaters are from either N Peal or John Smedley: are these models of a similar quality, or even better?

Thanks

Bob

Anonymous

Simon

Lockie or Johnston cashmere will easily be a match for quality, but will be much less expensive.

Unless fit is an issue, why would you even think about spending more?

Adam Jones

Anon,
Lockie is easily some of the best quality cashmere I have ever owned But as Simon points out fit is an issue. I am quote “boxy” in body shape and even then they are so big and baggy despite sizing down. Scottish Knitwear Problems. I have to by Lockie Garments which are private label to others where the sizing has been modified slightly… or buy Luca Faloni Instead.

Anonymous

Simon, your sartorial guidance please.

When wearing a sweater, should I let the collar points stick over the top of the neck, or stay inside it?

I never can be sure.

Angel Ramos

Both Saman and Dag have such a clean aesthetic and great vision. The execution is actually brilliant. Very elegant and the simplicity is beautiful. Aside from that both are solid gentlemen. So glad you were able to cover them, excited to see what they make you.

ZF

1) I would like to second here previous opinions that the detailed measurements and “treatment” is uniform, independent of who is the customer. Had the same experience that resulted in a very good fit which only needed minor updates after the first “fitting”. Both Saman and Dag are to some extent perfectionists, letting you leave the Atelier only if the fit, product, and aesthetics they can also be proud of. They really like clean backs…
2) Communication, planning, and delivery is always on time, as a service they are very reliable on all fronts.
3) Their approach focuses on the product (always), but they are also great people to talk to in general. While you are looking for garments not friends, I found to be contributing a lot why the product matches the expectations and future commissions.

I have now 3 suits (Toscana line), 1 pair of seersucker trousers, their older popovers (3), and, which I would highlight: one tie and one outerwear piece. Along the suits, I would emphasize their outerwear offering as well.

Carl

I am really impressed by Saman and Dag. I have bought a couple of suits, sport coats (all in Napoli line), some shirts, odd trousers, a cashmere overcoat and some other stuff. And I think its good value. The only “better” things I´ve tried is a full-bespoke suit from AW Bauer and a MTM suit from Cesare Attolini. But they are in a totally different price bracket. I have tried “cheap” bespoke (Graham Browne) and consider Saman Amel Napoli the equal in fit and superior in style and handiwork. But of course you have more options in bespoke. It´s also obvious that Saman has become more experienced during the years. My first chinos and shirt were not as good in fit as the later items I have commissioned.

ANM

Well Simon, I am not sure where where I would raise this.

It is a “style” that seems to be growing. That is, a personal “uniform” a la Steve Jobs.

Since most people are going to mess it up anyway, why not choose a uniform and get the choice out of the way?

In a run – on train of thought, we have all been seeing too much Kim Jong Un lately, but I have to admit, there is something interesting in those suits he wears. The jacket is a style type all its’ own, not Mao, nor Nehru.

It certainly eliminates the need for a shirt choice, and is definitely several notches up from the track suits favoured by Eastern European gangsters.

When visiting North Korea, you can actually order up a few suits from your hotel…

Properly done, do you think it could actually become a trend? (I had a thought of ditching everything I have, and ordering 20 of the NK specials in midnight navy, with perhaps tan or green for the warmer months)

Rik

Simon, do you have a view on v-neck vs crew-neck knitwear? Is it ok to wear a shirt with both?

Rik

Thanks Simon. Sorry, another style question: what colour chinos would you recommend with a navy hopsack blazer?

Rik

thank you

Gonzague

“style is something bespoke tailors underestimate at their peril.” well put Simon, most tailors only consider the good fit and ignore or even look down on style.
On the other hand I am guessing that only a minority of clients of E Sexton, Cifonelli and other tailors with a distinctive style will actually go for their style and not for something very ordinary. Not everyone dare to wear the styles they like on pictures.

Anonymous

This notion, so often repeated in these reviews, baffles me. Surely if a man knows his own mind, and has a fairly good idea of the style that flatters him, and asks his bespoke tailor for exactly that, and if the tailor knows his trade, then surely the finished article will have style?

I’m genuinely trying to understand the philosophy here. I’m the kind of man that likes to fade into the background. I’m the exact opposite of a Pitti Uomo peacock. And I’m neither attractive nor well-proportioned. So I’m not looking for any cutting-edge style. I’m just looking for clothes that fit me, that give me a little gravitas on the workplace, and a suitably noble bearing elsewhere. If I went to Cifonelli I’d have to get him to completely forgo his house style, because those signature lapels would make me stand out, and wouldn’t look good on a short bloke like me. So what would be the point?

Gonzague

It is interesting. It seems you are classic to the point that style may do nothing good for you. Nothing wrong with that nor classic. But style is not necessarily extreme as may be the case of the pitti guys, or exagerrated tailor shoulders. I think a windsor cut by Tom Ford has enormous style.
I think knowing your style and telling your tailor to do it often proves frustrating. From the mental image of it in your head to what the tailor will understand and eventually make there will always be a significant gap. And unless you are a stylist yourself or spend dozens our hours defining/drawing your ideal style (which I did), a tailor will most likely not succeed in fulfilling your desire. Even when I brought a jacket and asked the tailor to replicate it, it was not always satisfactory.
My explanation is that style depends on minimal changes in dimensions, volume in complex areas like the lapel, shoulder head and shoulder line.
Now whenever I go to a tailor I come up with precise drawings, close ups, and a lot of talks.
Agreed, one ought to take into account the proportions of the wearer, but one does not need to be tall and slim to have style (and styled garments).

Gonzague

– is there any advantage a having the MtM suit cut by hand,?
– is there any advantage for a hand attached collar when the suit isn’t bespoke?
– where are their suits made?
Thank you

Anonymous

I’m surprised that you are not interested in where the items are made in Italy as, I would imagine, it is part of the back story of the brand as quality is purportedly being promoted. To be clear it seems that with Saman Amel you are concentrating on a MTM offering that also delivers style that is current (i.e. fashion). Therefore Tom Ford, Zegna, Hackett etc. should also be worthy of investigation. There are many offerings across England available for modest bespoke budgets; English Tailoring bespoke from £1,440 (+VAT), 40 Savile Row bespoke for £1,400, Michelsberg bespoke for £800, Goldings bespoke for £1,400, Harris and Howard bespoke for £750, Robert Tracey bespoke from £595 and Rodney Cundle. You also point to issues around MTM (pop ups etc.) but Gieves, Dunhill, Zegna, Hackett, Chester Barrie (£1,000), Robero Revilla, Dress2Kill, King and Allen, Reiss, Moss, Cad, Suit Supply, Edward Sexton, Threadneedleman etc. have all been in business for years. Other MTM offerings such as Aspley, Edit, Clement and Church, Beggars Run, Volpe, Birkett Bespoke, Marc Wallace, Jasper Littman, Cotswold Tailor are newer but have endured in a competitive market. Quality needs discovery, but it should be clear that between the cheap high street offering and SR bespoke there are many, many offerings out there.

mike hsu

Funny, their polo shirts are exactly the same from ones I own from Brio’s Beijing. Incredible pieces, yet probably from the same italian tailor?

Anonymous

No criticism at all Simon, indeed I can’t think of anyone else that promotes the subject so well. It is simply that as the high street suit reduces in both choice and quality the various offerings off the high street need greater publicity – this of course is their responsibility. It almost requires an event or week, as with LFW, to push British tailoring, show the local choices and the value. This is particularly true for younger buyers seeking quality but whose own experience is restricted to what they have seen in fast fashion.

Anonymous

Very interesting. In light of the recent article on P Johnson MTM, I feel it’s only pertinent to note that Samanamel obviously use Munro for their suiting production. It’s evident from their house cut (see the cut and line of the lapel on their Napoli line on their instagram) and the prices and various ‘lines’ also support this inference. The sole reason I’d like to point this out is to highlight the bias of many people who gave their two cents on the origin of P Johnson suiting.

Now I don’t want to flog a dead horse, and I do believe, Simon, that your article on P Johnson was fair, however I believe that there were some ‘trolls’ taking advantage of the article as a soapbox for their views on the Australian company. I have no idea of the basis for their distaste towards the brand but their agendas seem quite clear: to undermine its reputation.

In that vein, it’s interesting to see no one has commented similarly on these guys.

On another note, I do love their stuff and I do not mean to take away from what they are doing at all.

Gonzague

What matters is the end product indeed. But where the product is made has an impact on costs, hopefully on prices. So whenever Asian and Eastern european countries do make quality, it is worth highlighting and should help convince the majority of us that Made in Italy is not mandatory.
That is why I asked before what it was produced. In this case Italy, ok.
By the way, I have not understood why italy and France were struggling to train young tailors while in I guess equally high wage countries such as Japan and England recruitment is not an issue it seems.

Anonymous

The readers here don’t have an issue with Sam Anamel and Munro, the issue people have with P Johnson is that he has built a company around lies and dishonesty and his success is arguably undeserved due to this. In numerous interviews in Australia he claimed to be a Savile Row trained tailor which is so far from the truth it’s not funny and then he claims all his products are made in Italy, which they are not. Sam Anamel has done none of those things and seems to be a very open and honest company.

JohnB

I know for a fact that they produce in Italy so nothing to worry about there 🙂

Why Made in Italy has such a strong trademark is unclear to me as well. I think it was some PR thing that the Italian government pulled after WW2 to get export going. Simon, anything you know something about?

Anonymous

That Italy influences fashion production is no surprise. Along with London, Paris, and NY Milan is one of the main cities that directs world fashion. It is home to many of the main fashion brands. However the difference is that there are many fashion businesses based outside of Milan (Florence – Ferragamo, Vincenza – Diesel, Rome – Valentino, Umbria – Cuccinelli etc.). This is unusual compared to other centres such as London wherein the industry is more centrally located. Beyond the brands are the manufacturing centres. However if one considers an example such as Prato which has 4,000 Chinese owned factories the industry is changing. As you point out Simon, there is also the issue of backended production, mostly supplied by the Chinese (the standards of which are now very high). I understand your argument about factory supply Simon, however the practice of brand quality control and finishing (maintaining brand reputation) is a subject worthy of further investigation.

JB

Hi Simon,
When can we expect a follow up piece on this? My curiousity was indeed raised when I saw a picture on your instagram stories. Awaiting the next trunk show for another fitting?

JB

Oh nice!
Enjoy your stay, sorry we couldn’t offer you better weather. But then I guess you’re used to grey skies and a bit of rain this time of year.

Carl

It was nice running into you at Skoaktiebolaget! Hope the fitting at Saman Amel went well.

D

Months on how have you found the usability of the Ettore jacket you had commission – from an enjoyment/fit based on the work performed perspective – is it one that you go to or is it at the back of your wardrobe. Would be interesting to hear your later thoughts on it now.
D

Dave

Dear Simon,

Which would you choose for a first good suit: Saman Amel, or Ring Jacket via the Armory? (Or something else?) I’m on the US west coast so suits are only used for weddings and funerals, and maybe one other event per year where I can get away with it. Nevertheless I want to look stylish while wearing one.

My plan was to go to the Armory next time I was in New York and get a suit there, but I saw that Saman Amel is having a trunk show at the same time.

I will not be able to provide guidance in subtle points of fit and style so will be relying on them for that. I can afford any of these but am cheap by inclination.

You mentioned in your budget post to get a bespoke suit. Do you think this is worth the extra money and inconvenience if one wears a suit so infrequently?

By the way, I’m absolutely loving the Private White trench coat and looking forward to another run of the balmacaan.

Best,
Dave