Men increasingly wear separate jackets and trousers. It is an inevitable result of more casual office wear, and dressing down more generally. But separates are hard. Men are not used to combining them effectively, and although I see more nice jackets around – navy hopsack, pale-grey cashmere, tan cottons – the trousers are often problematic.
Following a recent request from a reader for a guide to colours in separate trousers, here’s my top five.
1. Cream
The most versatile trouser colour. Its paleness means it will be sufficiently different to almost any jacket. For those afraid of the possible nautical and/or 1980s connotations, avoid a navy blazer on top and go for grey cashmere, perhaps in a nice herringbone. Trousers could be in flannel, cotton or linen. Cotton chinos will be the most versatile.
2. Grey
Grey flannel trousers should be a central part of every man’s wardrobe. Great with navy knitwear or jackets, and a range of other colours. As with any of these trousers, they can be given a youthful edge by being cut slimmer in the leg, and possibly given a deep turn-up (two inches or more). Pale grey (pictured top) just as good as mid-grey.
3. Brown
Best in moleskin, and in that material extremely versatile as a pairing for navy, light grey or green on top. Can also work surprisingly well in flannel. See article on PA Crowe coming up.
4. Charcoal
My favourite trouser colour at the moment. I have two pair, with my favourites from Elia Caliendo (pictures at all of these links, obviously). When nothing else seems to work on the lower half, go for charcoal. Nice in fresco, or a simple worsted twill (worsted being the finish on wool you get most commonly in suits). A bit of cashmere or a slightly more brushed finish avoids them looking like one half of a suit.
5. Navy
For me, navy works best as a chino. If charcoal is the fallback option for formal trouser-separates, navy is the fallback for casual trousers. Mine are from Incotex (stocked at Trunk) and they are used once or twice a week. I have yet to find a navy wool trouser I like as a separate – it suffers the one-half-of-a-suit problem more than any other colour.
Green can also work well if it’s dark enough; tan can be very versatile but the subtleties of the shade make all the difference; black should be avoided at all costs.
Remember to have sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser, and if you’re in any doubt about wearing a suit jacket on its own, don’t.
Photo: Luke Carby
Would love to see a photo of how William Abraham socks wear!
That won’t be for a while, but sure. Mine are doing very well so far. So nice, but so expensive…
Hi Simon – thank you for the recommendations. Related question: what pairs well with Blackwatch plaid trousers?
Have a look at the ‘three good, three bad’ post. Someone asked a very similar question there
Great post, and just what I need!
I love the odd jacket, but I find the odd trouser path to be treacherous indeed. I have trouble finding good alternatives on the dressier side of things (flanells etc) — they often feel too much ‘old man’ to me, or like I could just as well have picked a suit (of the slightly rougher variety, admittedly). And so when I go for this type of trouser, I often skip the jacket altogether. One the other side of the spectrum, I have a personal aversion against the khaki pant, as well as many chino models coming dangerously close.
Consequently, I find myself all too often sticking to jeans or corduroys. A trifle limiting, wouldn’t you agree.
So keep the inspiration coming!
Best,
Nick
Indeed. Look carefully at the cut of the trousers you like, and try to replicate that with the other materials. The cut will determine largely whether they seem too oldmanish
this comment for me sums it up ideally. I recently purchased a pair of needlecord trousers from Ede & Ravenscroft in dark green. I loved the fabric, the weight and the colour but they were far too oldmanish due to the width of the leg.
I took them to a local tailors (one that had worked with Ede in the past) and had the legs tapered down and shortened slightly.
This simple change transformed the trouser and now they have a far younger and more tailored look about them.
I’ve learned from this very blog that you shouldn’t be afraid to get things altered.
There are different reasons to fear Alteration. You are privileged to have a tailor you can trust, and even a tailor, as you say, who has worked with E&R. Your remark about the cut of the RTW needlecord trousers is quite valuable for me.
Simon
1. What is the difference between worsted, fresco (your G&H travel coat I guess) and serge? Are they all types of twill weaves?
2. Would you wear flannels as a flat front, or would you have them with pleats and turn-ups (Fred Astaire)
3. Would you ever wear a flat front trouser with turn-ups. I don’t see those often. I personally prefer turn-ups only on pleated trousers
Many thanks
BW
Worsted is a finish; fresco is a name for a particular weave and finish; serge is broader, can be woollen or worsted twill.
Brillant!
Very , very informative article and a real gem when read along with “Reader question: Wearing odd jackets”.
The two I found extremely useful in helping me establish a future ‘transferable’ wardrobe around jackets and trousers.
I will truly use both articles as a foundation.
More photos around both articles would be good.
I think jackets and different trousers often gets around the too formal / not too casual problem.
A question.
I notice you make no reference to black trousers and / or jeans (although I’m aware of your general dislike of the ‘jeans with everything ‘ look and your preference more so for chinos and flannels.
I think a serious piece on jeans is long overdue ( I hear a lot about Japanese denim).
Also do black trousers ever work ?
Thanks. I will be doing more on denim soon.
And black pretty much never works, no. Or rather something else would look better
black jeans work, definitely.
I think in addition there’s almost another article calling out to be written ,”Shirts / tops to wear with odd jackets “.
Also as summer approaches your thoughts on summer T shirts (if I recall correctly I haven’t seen anything on this subject from you) or are T shirts a definite style no no ?
Great advice as always Simon. First time commenting for me.
Just out of curiosity, I see most photos of you are taken by Luke (lovely photos at that). How do you manage these at seemingly very spontaneous occasions? Does he travel around with you?
Best,
We do quite a lot together, yes. Partly for the blog and partly for other publications such as The Rake, Essence and others
Excellent, sir. I note you missed how the pinstripe jacket pairs well with tracksuit bottoms (from your 18 May 2012 post). That said, if anyone has justification to deviate from The Rules, it’s the man who literally wrote the book on dressing the man.
Very conservative! Your photograph doesn’t show that shade of gray you mean very well. What hsppened to the other colours? Pink, lime green, fuchsia, etc.?
There are lots of other great colours, but these are the five most useful and versatile
Great guide, thanks Simon! After some initial hesitation, I had some grey flannels made by Thom Sweeney and the combination of slim cut and frog mouth pockets definitely counters any old-manishness. They’ve become such a wardrobe staple that I recently commissioned a pair of mid-grey frescoes for the summer months (NYC summers are way too hot for flannel.)
Still haven’t quite worked up the courage for cream trousers but maybe I’ll pull the trigger this summer…
Nice
Frog mouth pockets look very cool and frankly more beautiful than the verticals. But they are seldom found (by me) in RTW, unless Holland &Holland now £225.
Beyond colours, any thoughts on using texture and patterns in trousers?
I was thinking to get a pair of trousers made up in a yellow and brown birdseye, which from a distance looks like khaki.
Pattern can be nice, but always harder to wear in trousers than a jacket
Can you expand on this, how do we pair in odd jackets and waistcoasts or cardigans?
A whole other area, but will do at some point
Anonymous said – “Can you expand on this, how do we pair in odd jackets and waistcoasts or cardigans?”
Simon said – “A whole other area, but will do at some point”
Please add my voice to Anonymous’s request. Cardigans, and in particular waistcoat cardigans, are a good way to extend the seasons that one can go out wearing an odd jacket without an overcoat coat and still be comfortably warm. I’ve been giving quite a bit of thought to waistcoat cardigans recently, hopefully now in preparation for the 2014 late autumn and early winter seasons rather than early spring since it’s tempting today to believe that summer is almost upon us in London.
– Julian
Waistcoats are beautiful, especially in silk. I always wear a waistcoat with my jacket.
Waistcoats certainly are a good way to obviate the need for a coat in the shoulder seasons Autumn and Spring., thereby extending the usage of a jacket and avoiding the encumbrance of having to wear a coat.
Having a waistcoat proper with internal wallet pockets is also more secure than a wallet pocket in the inside of a jacket.
A waistcoat also stops a tie from flapping around.
One thing to remmeber when buying a waistcoat is that it is better to have the back made in the same material as the front. Width across the shoulders is also important.
Try Molehole for moleskin waistcoats. The small company is run by a lady who is very pleasant and helpful. Old-fashioned approach to doing business and nothing is too much trouble. She closed her business down but I hope that she will be reopening soon.
Hi Simon,
Do you consider your advice concerning “sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser” is useful for short men?
Being vertically restricted myself, I prefer to avoid this contrast and manage with one colour or keep it to close colours in the palette.
It can shorten you, certainly, but you need a minimum level of contrast to avoid looking like a mismatched suit
So if I’m 5 feet 7 inches and don’t want to draw attention to this fact I may be better off going for a suit in a casual colour or texture than a sport coat/ odd trouser ensemble?
Yes
Thanks
Hi Simon,
I wonder if you consider your advice concerning “sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser” is of use for short men.
Being vertically restricted myself I always keep the palette restricted to just one colour.
Hi Simon, thanks for the right article at the right time, as I’m currently looking for summer trousers.
What would be your recommendation for spring-summer? The cream chinos I suppose, but like BespokeNYC I’m still hesitating a bit, and would rather get tobacco or navy chinos. Mid, or lighter grey frescos sound an interesting as well. Any other alternatives?
I know you prefer black shoes for charcoal suits, but what do you wear with charcoal trousers?
Best regards,
A
Very dark brown shoes usually
Very useful! One question if I may: what jackets do you find work best with the navy chinos?
Pretty much anything
Hi Simon,
I am a big fans of your style. Something similar I want to develop on myself.
I just spent time to read through your previous post to try to get some pocket square purchase because I always thing you wear them very nicely. I could not find the exact thing. Would you consider making a post sharing how to choose, which brand to consider, preferred material and size, color and pattern for harmony?
It will be very much appreciated. Again, nice job on your outfit and blog! Congrat.
Thanks Simon very helpful. I’m trying to expand beyond the dreaded demin and although I have two pairs of cords, tan and navy, would like to experiment with flannels, linens and others.
I’m always shocked when wearing proper trousers at just how uncomfortable jeans actually are. No stretch or give. And I have a lovely pale green tweed jacket that would benefit from the brown moleskin combination you outlined above…
Hi Simon, question below.
Over the next couple of weeks I plan to invest in a good leather bag I can use for it every day. I need it to be fairly large (at least larger than a slimline briefcase), so it can fit in lunch and a water bottle as well as work stuff, and handheld rather than a shoulder bag so it doesn’t damage jackets and knitwear.
I’m also thinking of brown, as my office is casual and I will almost always be wearing brown shoes so a black bag won’t match and will most likely look a little too formal.
My budget is basically as low as is realistic for a fully leather bag. Yesterday, I did some browsing in central London and came up with these as a shortlist:
http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_083010186573_-1
http://www.simoncarter.net/collections/index.aspx#!/~/product/category=328520&id=10185497
One is from Patrick Grant’s budget brand, the other is from Simon Carter. I think they’re both fairly clean and elegant. Unfortunately, they’re both quite bulky but this is the size I’m going to need if I want to carry all of my stuff in one bag.
I’m just wondering if you have any thought/advice on my general line of thought and those two bags in particular? Any knowledge of those brands?
Hi,
No knowledge of those brands in particular I’m afraid, but then quality and suppliers with these brands can change frequently.
Have you read the ‘Bags’ section of the site? It’s under accessories. In there you’ll find pieces on modern man-bags, buying on a budget, and my How to Spend It article that could perhaps help you learn how to assess the piece you picked out yourself.
Have a look: http://www.permanentstyle.com/category/bags-accessories#.Uya3f_1idMI
Thanks Simon, I’ve read all of the relevant articles. Guess I’ll have to go back and look at each one closer.
I am also aware I said I’d show you my gloves from Jamrozinski. Will do this as soon as I’ve had the chance to photograph them.
Simon,
Do you know of a cloth book that has cream flannel? I’d like to make up a pair but can’t seem to find a book that has cream flannels. Thanks.
Ask Fox
But don’t ask Fox about lightweight flannel in jackets, because if you Dance and sweat, their expert will take for granted one knows Perspiration changes the flannel surface.
Simon Hi. Blogs great help. Just moved into EC4. Any ideas for dry cleaning valet service etc… Used the usual but not that happy.
Thanks
G
Very few good ones around. I use Press2Dress now in south London
What is the blue jacket that you’re wearing? It’s absolutely exquisite. The balance is fantastic on you. The height of the buttoning point, the degree of waist suppressions and the amount of the cutaway of the front quarters is, in my view, judged to absolute perfection.
Since this is a trouser post I will mention that my quest for a relatively affordable supplier of casual trousers continues. I spoke to Cad & The Dandy on the phone yesterday to see what they might offer and was quite surprised. The price grid on their web site is for their basic MTM service but for only a £60 premium on a trouser-only order (compared to a £400 premium for a full suit) they will do the trousers at their full bespoke level i.e. complete with basted fitting which I wasn’t getting for trouser-only orders at Graham Brown and with a proper paper pattern cut. That’s a starting price of only £250 for the cheapest price band, i.e. with the cheapest cloths. They quoted me £340 for a Minnis flannel which still seems quite reasonable. Clearly the price uplift for going to their top-tier service is far less for a trousers-only order because the issue of going to a full canvass is not applicable for trousers and is what presumably accounts for a lot of the £400 uplift for a suit.
I haven’t commissioned anything yet so I have no idea of quality but the price sounds right and I hear they have some good cutters, e.g. Jon deBoise, the older brother of Edwin deBoise from Steed. This sounds as if it could potentially be the perfect solution for me. Have you any experience of Cad & the Dandy? My investigation has revealed mostly good things about them although inevitably on the internet there’s always the odd negative comment. I’m definitely going to commission something in the next few weeks to see what sort of fit I can get.
– Julian
Thanks Julian.
The jacket is from Thom Sweeney. Have a search and you’ll find the posts on it.
Interesting on the trousers. I’ve heard mixed things about C&D, but that’s perhaps inevitable with somewhere that offers so many different levels of work. I have no experience myself.
Dear Simon,
What nautical and 1980’s connonations does cream provoke to your mind?
Cream trousers and navy blazers. Originally naval, and very much 80s
Hello Simon
I as so many others greatly appreciate reading your articles, it has been great to discover your writings which address questions many out there are thinking but might not know where or how to raise.
I am thinking of having my first odd jacket made and I really like the look of the dark blue one with the blue windowpane check shown at the top of the article. Apologies if you’ve shared details of this cloth previously but you mind doing so again please? As I would potentially like to commission a piece with this cloth. Thank you very much and look forward to reading future articles.
Gerard
Hi Gerard,
It’s from the Caccioppoli winter jacketings bunch. I haven’t looked at that bunch for a while, and it may not be in there as it’s a few seasons ago, but that’s definitely a great one to check out.
Simon
Thank you for the reply Simon
As a wearer of odd jackets and trousers, never a suit, I’d like to ask about the benefits of bespoke v off the peg for legwear. I’m taking delivery of my first bespoke sport jacket soon and thinking of ordering a couple of pairs of chinos to be made up when I collect and wondered if it’s really worth going the bespoke route with trousers that aren’t part of a suit? Looking at Incotex chinos the cost difference between those or bespoke from my tailor of choice is only a few pounds.
I’d say that it is Chris, except for more casual trousers like chinos. It’s been discussed here before that bespoke chinos are rarely like the RTW thing, and this is because the latter have various finishes and garment washes applied, so although bespoke will fit better, it may not be quite like the chinos you expect
Thanks Simon,
I ordered RTW but will ask when I collect the jacket as well.
What do you think about sharkskin odd trousers? In mid-grey,w ith a dry finish? Too suit-y?
Difficult to wear as odd trousers. If you do, make sure there is sufficient contrast in both colour and texture in the jacket – e.g. navy cashmere
What color of trouser can I wear with a wine jacket or suit
Tricky. I’d say try charcoal first, and possibly a pale grey
Hi Simon. I’m a bit late to this post, but I was wondering what jacket colors you wear with charcoal pants. I’m a big fan of charcoal pants, but the Internet consensus here in the States seems to be that they’re not very useful because (1) they’re too dark to pair with navy, and (2) they require lighter jackets, which for some reason are frowned upon. I’d love to hear your suggestions.
Charcoal pants are great! One reason: navy pants are hard to wear on their own without looking like orphaned suit trousers, so charcoal is the only dark option.
The jacket certainly has to be pale enough, to get that contrast, but I get that a lot – particularly pale brown and pale grey. Have a look at my Calvo de Mora jacket here: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/02/calvo-de-mora-donegal-jacket.html
Simon,
With respect to moleskin trousers, what’s the best way to pair them with a sports coat? Flannel, or something more casual, like herringbone or tweed?
Any of the above. Even cashmere, or linen (depending on weight)
Dear Simon,
Have I overlooked mention of seersucker trousers here? What is your experience and feeling about seersucker, Simon?
Not a fan for trousers – suits yes, and jackets, but not trousers
Dear Simon,
Thank you. Do you disfavour seersucker as trouser cloth because of its rolled surface, which you find for trouser ugly? Is your judgment because seersucker fails to fulfill criteria for trouser cloth, or because because seersucker has attributes which disqualify it?
PS: You accept seersucker suit, so it must be the relationship of non-seersucker odd jacket to seersucker trouser somehow?
I find it unatttrctive from a style point of view as trousers
OK, if that’s your feeling, I’ll respect it. But for me to changr my intention to buy two pairs of seersucker trousers on sale your feeling is not enough.
I’m not 100% sure this is the right post to ask this question in, but I’m wondering if it’s correct to wear light grey trousers that have a pale blue pinstripe, with a navy blue suit jacket? I’m a woman and I don’t work in a corporate office so I know I have more leeway than the very traditional male suit options, but I don’t want to look like I just threw on whatever I found first. The jacket is slightly heavier weight than the trousers, I’d be happy wearing them together if the trousers were solid grey, my only real query is wearing a pinstripe piece with a solid colour piece. Thanks in advance!
Hi Elizabeth,
I’m no expert on womenswear, but I certainly wouldn’t wear those together or recommend a man to do so. Generally it’s worth avoiding striped trousers entirely, except on very formal clothing. Patterned trousers rarely make good odd trousers
Simon
Morning Simon
Just spotted your comment on not being able to find a good navy wool for trousers. I have a pair made from a VBC hopsack, which has plenty of texture and which screams “informal”. They work well with anything from Harris Tweed in all its shades, to a plain white shirt and charcoal sweater.
Thanks, I’ll take a look
Hey simon,
Any thoughts on what fabric of grey odd pants works with a navy linen jacket?
I worn a couple of my VBC 110s worsted wool trousers and none of them look right right it…
Try fresco, or crispair
I think brownish jackets can look okay with grey bottoms. If one peruses the web and the photo-rich texts we all know, this is frequently depicted. My tailor has always told me this is not good. I remember a woman at work actually telling me my grey trousers looked bad with a gun club jacket. Why do some people like this combo and others think it is a no-no?
The only thing I can think is that there must be sufficient contrast between top and bottom – one reason I like paler grey flannels. Women’s opinions and associations on traditional menswear are often odd and subjective
Dear Mr Crompton.
Recently I had made a DB corduroy jacket, same color as your corduroy suit.
What kind and color of pants would you choose to combine with the jacket?
(multiple chooses appreciatetd)
Thank you very much in advance.
Grey flannels first, pale or mid-grey; cream, if not too flamboyant or impractical; and then dark greens
Thank you.
For the dark green: what kind of cloth. Would you disadvise against dark green corduroy?
Perhaps flannel or moleskin. Not cord
Hi Simon,
I’ve been struggling in finding the right trouser colour and material to pair with my odd slatey grey cord jacket…..
charcoal worsted trouser? Navy/ beige chino?
What would you say?
Sounds tricky. All those options are good though, plus also maybe dark green
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article! It is helpful!
I have a desert sand color suit made in wool/linen/silk. Can you give me some advise to pair this kind of jacket? Which color and material of trousers are suitable for this jacket? Thank you!
I’d look to cream and mid-grey initially. Make sure it is definitely casual enough to be worn with a suit though
Hey Simon,
I’m considering a purchase for my first double breasted jacket (https://thearmoury.com/products/ring-jacket-wool-balloon-amj06-sport-coat?variant=37895984399).
Considering I’m only going to wear it in casual holiday settings (but for colder climate), what are your thoughts about pairing this with more casual trousers (jeans and armoury army chinos etc.)?
Thanks!
It’s a lovely jacket, but I don’t think it would be easy to wear with such casual trousers – largely because of it’s formal colour and because it’s a DB.
Thanks Simon. I’m wondering is there any cloth or style one can have in a double breasted sportscoat for it to go well with casual trousers? Or is there only a small extent for a double breasted to be dressed down given that the style is already quite formal? Thanks
The latter. It is hard to do, but you need to look at the most casual cloths – slubby linens, cottons, tweeds – in casual colours (browns, greens, tan)
I’m a lot late on this post but I have a question about moleskin trousers. I like the idea of brown moleskin but how should they be styled? Flat front w/ no turnup? Seems like I might as well be wearing chinos at that point.
Thanks for your time and your insights.
It’s up to you what style you want Don – adding pleats or turn-ups will both be more unusual, turn-ups also perhaps more casual. The texture should be rather different to chinos – and that is what would set them apart
Thanks Simon! I really appreciate how much time you give to us. I have one other question. I’m wondering what brands you might recommend for RTW trousers. I am in the market for grey flannels right now and Nashville does not have any good bespoke tailors that I am aware of. I have ordered from luxire and the trouser from them is good but not good enough for five pairs if you know what I mean.
I do.
I’m afraid it’s hard to recommend RTW brands for things like this Don – because they change from season to season these days, both in terms of styles offered and sometimes quality as well, and because I don’t really know what’s available in physical stores there.
Ones i would recommend include Drake’s, though, and No Man Walks Alone (Rota or Eidos)
Hi Simon,
Taking your advice and planning some bespoke chinos but unclear on weight. For example, in the Bay Area in California, would a Dugdale 310g cotton twill be considered a 3 season fabric (excluding winter)? How much wrinkling should I expect?
I think so yes, though I have never lived there so hard to say precisely. You will get a fair bit of wrinkling.
Do bear in mind that what you’ll get is not chinos as we know them today, but tailored cotton trousers. A lot of the look and feel of chinos comes from industrial garment washing
Thanks for your input. I guess only winter weight cotton will have less wrinkling but won’t be wearable in 70-80 and even 90s.
Hey Simon, how versatile is a pair of dark brown crispaire as an odd trouser?
Asking from the context of a wearing them with dress/oxford shirts, open necked, without a jacket.
For a pair of odd brown moleskin trousers would you recommend going with pleats and turn-ups or isn’t that fabric suitable to do turn-ups on?
It depends on the weight, but generally turn-ups would be OK on moleskin, but I’d avoid pleats. They would be too soft to hold the crease at all
Simon, kindly advise me if mid-gray flannel trousers would work with cream heavy cotton safari jacket? Regards Henry
Yes, it would.
Hi Simon,
I’m going to commission one pair of MTM grey flannel trousers. I’m deciding between no pleat and 2 pleats (reverse). My figure is slim and the pleats would add some needed volume. However, would two pleats look too formal for sweaters, and look like a suit separate?
Would this be a good weight/color in California? It looks a bit lighter than your Sexton pairs.
https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/classic-flannel/products/370g-mid-grey-fox-flannel?variant=22119511752822
Much appreciated
If you’re unsure on the pleats, perhaps go for one? Two pleats won’t make the trousers look like a suit separate, but they might make them look quite dressy and unusual. One pleat would be much less likely too.
And yes, that would be a good weight and colour – perhaps more for San Francisco than LA weather though most of the year
I do like single pleats, but they tend to accentuate my slim build, making me look pencil thin. I may try two to experiment.
Will 10/11 oz grey flannel better suit LA weather than 13/14? I go between LA and Santa Barbara (22 degrees c) and find my 15/16 oz WBill cords are quite handy during the Santa Barbara winter (18 degrees c). Do you mean something lighter is better year-round in southern California as opposed to winter?
Yes exactly, for year round.
Don’t mean to contradict you Simon, but in a Cerrato comment a year ago you mentioned that you used to have 11oz flannels but prefer 13 or 14.5oz now. You noted that there isn’t much difference in the heat and they retain their shape better — does this still hold true? I don’t mean to pick at details but am curious.
Sorry, yes it does I think – thanks for picking that out
What does “woolen spun” flannel here mean, Simon? https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/7718202-classic-woollen-flannel-mid-gray-solid
I’m planning for my first (and only) pair of grey flannels, perhaps with that swatch.
Also, would you prioritize dark green moleskin trousers or cream flannel (like your Elia trousers)? Danke!
It’s just woollen as opposed to worsted, it’s what flannels should be.
And of the other two, I’d say probably dark green moleskin
Simon,
In your opinion, when it comes to wool trousers, which weaves are the most casual that would help create that smart casual look?
Flannel is the best – less for its weave and more for its finish. See the Flannel section of the Guide to Cloth for details there
Hi Simon,
I have been using your capsules to expand my wardrobe – thank you! I am curious on your thoughts about 5-pocket pants? When and where should they be worn? (if ever) 5-pocket and casual sport coat? I tend to like “old school” style…These pants have also surged in popularity on the golf course.
Personally I wouldn’t wear that style except as jeans. They always feel like half way in between two other styles otherwise.
What weight brown moleskin do you recommend against tailored jackets? Will weightier moleskin hold a better crease or the other way round? Also have you had any experience with cotton cavalry twill (i can find a lot of wool cavalry twill on our website, not cotton). Thanks
Thanks!
I don’t really wear moleskin or cotton cav twill so can’t comment effectively on either I’m afraid
hi simon, happy new year to you.
Wanted to ask: Apart from the typical array of greys (light-mid-charcoal), what color in wool (excluding navy) could one consider making up as an odd trouser for office wear? Asking in the context of wearing the trouser mostly on its own without a jacket. I find colours such as olive/tan/khaki often work better in cottons instead of wool
I’d suggest either dark olive or dark brown. I wear dark green/olive trousers quite a lot, and my recent charcoal/brown flannels from Fox get a lot of wear (particularly with black shoes)
I’d like to have your advice about how to wear a pair of smart navy Incotex chino, and if they should have a turn up like suit trousers or if it is better to roll up the edge like a jeans.
Thank you in advance. Antonio
I think you’ll find they go with most things Antonio, other than perhaps most tailored jackets, which will often be too smart for chinos. The jacket would have to be unconstructed and soft.
I would fold up the chinos if you want a turn-up, and then iron them in place. No need to do anything else. You could roll as well, but that would be more casual.
Simon, thanks for the awesome content! I’d like to ask you a question – which of those colors would you recommend on corduroy odd trousers? I absolutely can’t afford bespoke at the moment, so RTW is the only way for me. But the only relatively smart winter trousers available at my price point are corduroys – I was lucky to get a discounted pair of gray flannels, even though they are probably worsted. By far I have bought burgundy cords, which were probably a mistake. What other colours would be better?
I’d suggest dark brown and a dark, olive green. Perhaps cream too – very nice, though obviously gets dirty easily
Thank you! Actually cream for me is suprisingly durable when it comes to dirt and dust, even though I live in a famously filthy city 🙂 At least when it comes to chinos
I’ve just acquired a vintage Harris tweed jacket that has a light tan/ khaki as the base color. Most of my pants tend to be cream/ stone or medium grey. I know it’s difficult without seeing a photo, but would cream/ stone trousers or chinos be too close to the jacket to pull off? I thought the contrast in fabrics would be enough to make it doable, but I’m not sure it works.
It really depends on how light/dark the jacket is. You just need to have a decent amount of contrast between the top and bottom halves. Some shade of grey should work though, whether very light or very dark. And certainly cream I would have thought
Thanks! I’m not a fan of the tonal outfit approach, so perhaps I’m hyper-sensitive to getting enough contrast in my outfits when I’m not in a suit. I’ll have to play around with the combinations a bit more.
Hi Simon,
Please could you advise the fabric details of the charcoal flannel trousers from Elia Caliendo and also suggest a light grey fabric for flannels which you already have?
Thanks
Rupesh
Today, to be honest I’d go with the Fox flannel book – just look in there and pick your colour and weight
Hi Simon,
Would a 420g mustard( hint of olive)colour cotton twill from Holland and sherry be useful to have in a trousers as I have seen you wear with blue denims? I am guessing probably hard to match with Blazers.
It wouldn’t be the easiest with jackets, no. Nice though, and particularly with knitwear
How versatile are chocolate brown linen trouser and wool silk linen dark green trouser? Thank you.
Chocolate brown might be nice, yes.
On the dark green, I’d stay away from wool/silk/linen for trousers generally
Why would you advise against? I was thinking of getting a pair in that mix for the summer.
Because that mix is normally used for jacket materials, which are more open and loose, and don’t make such good trousers. It’s likely the one you’re looking at is more designed for jackets, but worth checking. Trousers would be quite flimsy, not hold a crease, and not be very hard wearing
Hi Simon,
I’m considering buying a pair of Stoffa “cotton canvas” trousers in chocolate brown color. How versatile would you say these would be? Have you had any experience with their cotton canvas?
Also, other than black shoes, what color of shoes would you recommend? Thank you.
I think that would be useful, yes, though I haven’t tried the material so can’t comment there I’m afraid.
They would be good with some dark-brown shoes as well, just better with calf (so some contrast in shine v matte) and ideally with some variation in the colour and polish of those calf shoes as well, eg a darker toe
Hi Simon,
I know you said chino works best for a navy odd pair of trousers, but do you think wool cavalry twill would also work? My thinking is getting a cavalry twill navy suit would be versatile enough to be worn as a suit and separates, both in terms of the jacket and trousers.
Many thanks!
Hi Ravi,
No, I’m afraid my experience is that that’s not a good idea. The jacket will be very sharp and hard to work as a jacket. And the trousers will be great, but also quite smart, certainly a lot more than chinos.
In general, I would only do that ‘three-way suit’ thing with cottons like corduroy etc. Otherwise there’s too great a risk that you make too many compromises and you don’t like two of the end results
Hi Simon – if buying brown and green (dark) trousers, (one moleskin, one corduroy), is there a particularly way around you would recommend? In the above article you say that brown is “Best in moleskin”. Just in another article (can’t remember which) I noticed you are wearing some rather nice brown corduroy’s. Or am I over complicating things? Thanks in advance
I don’t think one colour will particularly suit one material, no. So to that extent you are overthinking it, yes.
However, I would also suggest going for corduroy first, and if you love it, nothing wrong with having both in cords.
Moleskin is nice in brown, but of the two fabrics, cords are probably more useful.
You said that navy would be your fall back option for a pair of casual trousers and that navy typically works better with chinos rather than a wool. In that case, do you prefer navy chinos over a pair in khaki or olive? Those are the chinos I see recommended almost universally. Also, I assume that when you said cream would work best as a chino, you were referring to that while wearing a jacket, correct? So, the navy chinos would be your go to when not wearing a jacket, correct?
Yes, exactly.
However, which chino works best as a casual one without a jacket is more of an open question – far more things can work. I actually tend to wear khaki most, but it’s personal and depends a little on what knitwear you wear most often as well.
In terms of the knitwear, does it still revolve around having enough contrast between the bottom and the top or are there other principles that also come into play?
That’s mostly it, yes.
Thanks! You mentioned that khaki was the pair of chinos that you tend to wear the most and also in the post you said that the subtleties of the shade of khaki make the difference. Could you elaborate a bit more on which shade of khaki you think to be the better choice or how you would personally wear each shade? In general, I’ve tended to see 2 shades of khaki (I apologize if I’m not using the proper terms, but this is just how I thought about them): the yellow-ish pair similar to your Armoury chinos and a dusty pair similar to your Real McCoy’s chinos. What would you say the different use cases for each pair would be/how would you wear them or which do you prefer/recommend?
A lot of questions there. I think you’re right, those are the two types, and the Real M ones are more of a beige really.
I’d say that beige colour is smarter and more versatile
Do you think that the yellow-ish shade of khaki is more allusive to a pair of workwear chinos than to the standard pair of khaki chinos that’s become pretty much ubiquitous in casual menswear?
So, in your opinion, a good starting point for a rotation of casual chinos would be a pair of navy chinos and a pair of dusty khaki/beige chinos?
Yes, I think so
Hi Simon,
after a lot of research, I found a pair of grey flannel trousers that looks like it ticks all the boxes : 12,7oz, side tabs, single pleat, high rise, and good finishing.
There are 2 shades of grey and I’m unsure which one to pick as the most versatile : medium grey, or charcoal grey ? mostly to go to the office, to pair with knitwear or a navy blazer.
Thanks
Charcoal will be smarter, more business. Mid-grey will be versatile and touch more casual
Thanks,
On my way to try them on to see them in the flesh (or in the cloth) to help with my decision.
Based on what you say, I might go for the mid grey.
If I may add to your No.1 reference to Cream Trousers.
Have a look at the Dugdale Invincible Bunch Nos:-
INV022 CREAM TWILL
INV026 CREAM FINE CAVALRY TWILL- particularly beautiful !!
W.BILL :- WB 16220 – heavy cavalry twill.
I have these swatches …would love to try INV026 in particular.
What kind of jacket and colour would best suit INV026….a part of me screams Electric Blue but maybe something more muted!!!
Yes, something more muted definitely! It’s hard to tell from the images on the Dugdale site though. Some look quite understated, a little grey/brown, but others look very bright
Interesting how the number one recommendation here (cream) is now a trousers’ colour you hardly wear, according to the article on how your style has evolved over the past fifteen years. Simply reflects that style is a journey.
Might be worth refreshing some of these wardrobe building articles (which are great by the way, as per the rest of this blog), as I understand you would not put things in that order if you were to write this article today, and some people for sure still use them – I know I have very recently, for instance, but hopefully went for another grey flannels instead of cream.
Yes, good point Edmond. Tastes are always going to vary a little after 9 years I guess
Hi Simon, great article. I’m currently in the process of deciding the next color to add to my trouser collection. I have the base fundamentals but I’m missing cream and grey.
Two questions, one, when you refer to cream are you specifically mentioning a pale cream or a warm ivory with yellow undertones? Second, while I only have one pair of smart trousers (a beautiful brown cotton gabardine from the Solbiati bunch) I live such a casual life that I don’t much feel the need for a smart grey trouser, but perhaps something that is smart like wool in a color that is more casual like sand or ash green (I’m also afraid that cream might accentuate my large hips too much).
What do you suggest?
Hey Christopher,
I’m surprised you’d say the bases are covered but you have no grey. Even for a fairly casual wardrobe, I’d want one grey pair – either mid-grey or charcoal, so that’s what I would recommend next.
Hard to say which of those creams I mean! I guess have a look on the website for cream trousers and that might give you a picture, visual reference
Hi Simon, thank you for your advise. My chief concern with grey is that I just don’t like the way it looks with my skin tone. However, your advise has been solid thus far so I’ll explore those colors and see if I can find a shade that is right for me.
I wouldn’t worry about that – they’re a long way from your face! Very different depending on what you wear them with too, from bright red to black
Hi Simon,
Would you say your view on navy chinos worn with a jacket has evolved in recent years? Given your more recent article on why navy is so hard to pair with a jacket it seems an odd inclusion on a list of versatile trousers to pair with jackets. Would you say that maybe a beige or olive chino would be more a more versatile replacement in the above list if I wanted a more casual trouser than grey flannel to be worn with jackets?
Yes, I think that’s probably fair Brian, it has. I wouldn’t wear navy chinos with jackets – I barely wear them with jackets at all, but if did I’d be more likely to go down the beige or olive route.
Thanks Simon, I like chinos because I can put them in the wash so they’re good for WFH around small children and dogs. Any other machine washable options that you’d suggest that could survive WFH but also be smart enough to pop a jacket on to head to a lunch meeting? I also considered cord but it doesn’t really have the all-season versatility of a chino.
Not really, no. There’s no perfect crossover there of something casual enough for that but smart enough to dress up. Most of the time it requires looking after trousers more/better I’m afraid
Yes, quite. I was hoping that swapping in chinos when WFH would be a good strategy for looking after my wool trousers.
I have just comissioned a charcoal grey high twist wool trouser but I don’t know why but it is looking a bit off with a blue which is a little on the stronger side, may I call it medium blue shirt. It looks great with navy denim and very light shades of blue but as soon as I shift to medium blue somethings feels a bit off. The link has the exact shirt I am speaking. It looks amazing with cream and beige but then while wearing at night I am not able to make use of this shirt. Does charcoal have a problem matching a little stronger blues
https://www.amazon.in/Marks-Spencer-Men-Shirt/dp/B0BTXZFZJN
I think stronger blues like that have a problem in general – it’s much easier when they’re faded a bit
Could it be because charcoal is a dull colour and it needs something stronger to shine?
I think it’s mostly the blue, but you could try with stronger colours yes
Hi Simon, I have a dark brown cord jacket and a navy textured twill jacket. I really enjoy wearing both with mid grey flannels and would like to add another trouser option into my wardrobe, particularly for fall and winter. Any suggestions? My environment is quite casual. If we rule out corduroy trousers I’m not sure where to go next for something that is at the right level of (in)formality. Could you suggest any colours and fabrics to consider?
With trousers, I really think the key is versatility – don’t try to add too many colours but get the extra interest elsewhere. For example, here you could go for both tan/beige and green, but both are a little unusual and if you don’t have many good pairs of trousers they may not fit your style that much.
The idea of focusing on greys for now is appealing. I don’t know why but I hadn’t thought of that. I thought for sure the best approach would be to add additional colours for more variation throughout the week, but I find I don’t mind at all the idea of sticking to grey for now. Thank you.
By elsewhere do you mean in terms of fabric and texture, like maybe adding a grey cavalry twill on the more (for me) formal end, or maybe a grey cotton trouser? I’m a bit stumped on fabric. I’ve been wearing mostly jeans with tailoring and the shift into tailored trousers feels like a big jump in formality, as your “what office are you” posts demonstrate so well. Is there is a versatile fabric on the more casual end of tailoring that would be a good place to continue this experimentation?
No, by interest elsewhere I mean in the jackets rather than the trousers, and then by other things around them – shirts, knits, shoes. Rather than trousers.
I think getting a charcoal pair next, and then finding variety with these things (maybe even belts) could be nice