Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the inside of the jacket.

Although not as well as known as some of the Neapolitans, he is up there with the best in my relatively limited experience (visited perhaps a dozen, jackets from three). The fit is spot on, the experience was easy and the work inside is sumptuous. Although much of this is a matter of taste (and how much you want to spend on impractical details), it is always interesting to see how impressed English cutters are with internal finishing. The Cifonelli double breasted was another example.

The Caliendo jacket is quarter lined, with the jacket cloth at the front and a little silk across the back. I like the double stitching around the edges, but only because it is subtle, being an almost identical colour to the cloth. Contrast stitching I don’t like.

Elia, the son of founder Biagi Caliendo, is a little cheaper than other Neapolitans at £2800, but there are certainly cheaper tailors there too. My favourite shot from the visit is below – of one of the tailors working on a basted jacket outside a side door at the atelier. If only I could find an excuse to go back.

Photography: Luke Carbyhttp://www.sartoriacaliendo.com/
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Dear Simon

Incredible attention to detail.

I really like everything about it except the price, though with the meticulous attention to detail and quality of everything on the jacket, i am not totally surprised.
The double stitching is, as you describe, very discreet but adds a new dimension when viewed closer. The breast pocket is delightful but somewhat small meaning that the pocket square does push out on the pocket fabric somewhat. On the other hand it looks more natural in its design.
Of particular interest to me were the trousers that you were wearing with the jacket. The colour, a perfect compliment to the jacket, and the cloth, the right texture. Could you provide a little more detail on them please.
Finally, it would have been good to have seen a full length photograph so one could see the whole ensemble and then to complete the article, a one-liner of everything you had on which if i recall from earlier articles, it is something that you have done before. This is very helpful for those of us who are looking for inspiration and more importantly, where to go and buy it.
As always – excellent content.
Best regards
Bradley Viljoen

James Marwood

That is a lovely jacket, and the ‘cute’ pocket really makes it I think.

One day I’ll make it to Napoli for a jacket. One day!


What is the fabric? I’ve been looking for something similar for a summer jacket.


Eugene Freedman

Seems a bit of a formal collared shirt with a soft, more casual jacket. Perhaps a softer sweeping collar next time you wear the jacket?


Hi Simon,
Strangely enough, I was on the verge to ask you about this jacket! I once saw the pic of the breast pocket, and then nothing more. It looks great and suits perfectecly to such an event. Yes, you are “chic” in this outfit!

What disturbs me is the pricing, though! Yet if the fashion industry keeps on working properly, we should have this style in the near future as RTW…

PS: please, do take note that access to your website at certain times has become difficult.


Surely the jacket button is placed too high? Having such a large amount of shirtfront peeking out between the buttoned jacket and the top of the trousers makes the outfit look like it was tailored for someone else.


Thanks for the great blog, I truly appreciate your efforts and personal style.
I love the Caliendo jacket and was interested in having a bespoke jacket made in the Neopolitan style (in a fall/autumn weight) but am ‘stuck’ in NYC and do not travel abroad. Any recommendations on bespoke tailors in NYC or do you know if Caliendo travels to the US? BTW, I have done a few MTM Ralph Lauren suits but want to upgrade to a bespoke for this one.


Thanks Simon.


A quick post before joining friends to watch the Parisian July,14th fireworks. As to the shoes, you also made an excellent choice, be it in style or color: Edward Green’s Asquith.
Apparently, an attendant was aware of something unusual going on…
The Fireworks have just started!


Hi Simon,

After seeing the pictures above of the jacket, tie and pocket square I knew it was you I walked past around the Bank of England (must have been en route to / from the party).
If I may say, I was in awe of the jacket when seeing it in the flesh. A fantstic piece.





This jacket is close to something like perfection !
the small chest pocket and single button on the sleeve are so charming.




The jacket looks very comfortable and easy and the tie is lovely. The glasses are super naff, though.

Behn Zera

could someone please let me know what glasses he’s wearing?


Hi Simon,

How does Eila Caliendo’s craftsmanship and level of finishing compare to Rubinacci and Liverano & Liverano?


Your jacket looks very nice Simon.

Based on your experience with him, can you say if hes more on the side of accommodating customer requests or more on the side of “here’s my styling, take it or leave it?” For example would he be willing to cut slimmer lapels, around the 8cm range? does he travel to anywhere else besides London? NYC perhaps?



This is a beautiful jacket. Apologies if you have covered this elsewhere, but where in London would you recommend for a similarly relaxed construct and style? I have jackets from Grahame Browne but find them slightly staid and a several trips to Naples simply isn’t a viable option.
Would the likes of Thom Sweeney be worth a shot or would you recommend a visiting tailor such as Solito to ensure the jacket is truly Neapolitan?



Elia made me a jacket recently which I love. Thanks for the tip-off. I was wondering about asking him to make me a 3 piece suit next, but wasn’t sure if that would fit with the Neapolitan style. Would this work or be an anachronism do you think?

Secondly, in ‘bumping’ an old post I wonder whether you had considered turning your comments pages into a bulletin board a la Style Forum? It would be a great resource for your readers and perhaps increase advertising revenue.



Hi Simon,

because i can not tell for sure from the pictures, are the shoulders padded?

Thanks a lot.


Hi Simon,

Been brainstorming ideas for my 2nd SC and this Cacciopoli wool/silk/linen seems to be perfect! Do you remember the % split between the wool/silk/linen? Going to dig up the fabric to see if my tailor offers it.

Lastly, for a blend with linen, the wrinkling looks quite minor. How has the jacket held up so far in terms of wrinkling? I’ve been trying to steer clear of linen for a pale sand/oatmeal fabric but there aren’t any great options that are pure wool (any other suggestions?)


Hi Simon,

So you get all your fall/winter Neapolitan SCs quarter-lined as well?


Hi Simon,

Sound logic, thanks. Full lining would also be warmer, right? I get cold easily and prefer being hot to cold, as there is no risk of getting sick.


Given how central to capsule wardrobes a pair of grey fresco (spring/summer) and grey flannel (autumn/winter) – is it worth men spending first and foremost on one suit in each, trousers from which can then support a wide range of odd jackets?


Hi Simon,

With this shade of jacket… what odd trousers would you wear with it, if not wanting white/cream on the bottom? I am guessing high contrast so either dark grey, olive, dark brown (would the latter clash)?

Thank you.