I’ve finally got round to shooting four jackets that were made in the past year. Over the next week I’ll do a post on each one, and while there is no intention to make direct comparisons – that would be largely pointless, given that they are such different styles – it will be interesting to do them in series.

The first, here, is my first jacket from Solito. I’ve written a little before about Gennaro Solito and his son Luigi, who does the international visits, and there is little to add about the style. It is a classic Neapolitan cut, with shirt shoulder, minimal padding and beautifully drawn patch pockets. The cloth is from Caccioppoli and the jacket is quarter lined inside.

It is worth emphasising the price, though, with suits starting at €2000. That’s a lot less than Rubinacci or Caliendo, and the result both in terms of fit and make is superb. The only thing we had to change at the final fitting was the length of the sleeves, which Solito tends to cut quite short. And I forgot to ask for horn buttons rather than corozo, but we can swap those later as well.

Solito has just starting visiting London with another Permanent Style favourite, shirtmaker Satriano Cinque. They had their first trunk show in London a couple of weeks ago. Solito visited previously, but infrequently, and Satriano had never been before. They have also just confirmed their next dates – May 17 and 18. All arrangements and contact details as on the last post on their visits.

Luigi’s personal email is [email protected]

Shoes by Cleverley, trousers by Caliendo, sweater by Johnston’s.

Photography: Luke Carby