Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Share
||- Begin Content -||

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. 

This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be. 

For most readers, it is the top of what they should be aiming for - in terms of craft and value for money. There will always be small reasons for choosing bespoke (design, craft, heritage) but for the majority, this is it. 

The MTM service Jean-Manuel Moreau offers, made by Orazio Luciano in Naples, sits at the top of the list we’ve covered on Permanent Style, alongside brands like Saman Amel. 

Which shall we look at first? Fit, style, make? 

Perhaps fit, given it’s often the first thing people focus on. 

The jacket of this suit fits very cleanly, despite the little help offered by linen. It sits well across the shoulders, chest and upper back, and runs smoothly down into the upper arm. 

There is, perhaps, the tiniest excess on the right of the chest and on the left of the back: but as often happens, the photos exaggerate it. 

More important, and obvious, is the close fit of the collar on the back of the neck; and the right/left balance, which aids the clean appearance through the waist and hips. 

I haven’t included pictures of the fit of the trousers, just because there’s so much to look at already. But you can see something of them in my two recent posts on summer smart/casual. 

They are cut a little higher than normal, just because I'm always interested in how different tailors try to fit that rise on my body - and it’s so nice and flattering. So far, these are among the best in that regard - perhaps on a short list with Camps de Luca, Whitcomb, Cifonelli and Ambrosi. 

They are flat-fronted, and relatively slim, with a 19cm opening and a 5cm cuff. Now, several readers have asked about these proportions recently, after the trousers were featured on those style posts. Please, always bear in mind that such things should be in proportion to your body and shoe size as well.

The trousers are a touch too short, but no more than a centimetre. I do like trousers like this to just kiss the top of the shoe, and with a little extra, they would. Perhaps it’s nothing more than looking at the length previously when the linen was unwrinkled. 

(As in all reviews, I have photographed this suit after several hours’ wear, rather than in its perfect, pressed look straight from the tailor. It’s much more realistic.)

In terms of make, Jean-Manuel Moreau has a similar level of finishing to other good Neapolitans. Which is to say, not as fine as anything in France, England or North Italy - but still with a lot of work. 

Any quick comparison of the buttonholes, or finishing around the lining inside, shows that it’s not on the same level as those other regions. 

The lining running around the interior pockets is not exactly precise, and the linen is cut between it and the facing, rather than being the same piece. 

But there is still a lot of handwork here. The jacket’s edges and seams are all top-stitched, as are the long seams down the sides of the trousers. In Naples, this is an extra level - more commonly seen when trouser workshops make under their own name, rather than for other tailors. 

And more importantly, the lapel of the jacket is hand-padded - a key structural point that's usually only seen on bespoke, and only on made-to-measure we’ve covered from (top line) Saman Amel and Orazio. (The latter was initially wrong on the Orazio piece, and has been corrected.)

There are still small points of shaping and handwork - for example around the collar and armhole - that separate the best bespoke from all MTM.  But they are some of the small points I mentioned at the start, that most readers will not need or notice. 

They centre around how the upper half of the jacket sits on the neck, on the shoulders and under the arms, and therefore how that part of the jacket responds to the wearer moving (seen a little bit below). But it’s not even something all bespoke tailors execute well. 

So we’ve done fit, and make. As regards style, I think this suit appeals for its simple, elegant curves. Almost for lack of character. 

Compared to the Orazio cord jacket we covered, the JMM is larger almost everywhere - in the shoulder, the chest, the waist and the sleeve, as well as being longer in the body. 

Yet it certainly does not feel or look big. It still has a flattering line through the waist and in the small of the back. And it’s small enough in the shoulder, and short enough in the body, to be a casual cut that would work with jeans or chinos (in a different material). 

The gorge is fairly high, the lapel fairly wide. But neither look exaggerated (gorge height being one thing I'd like to change on the Saman Amel jacket). 

The buttoning point is lower than the hunting-inspired English tailors, yet could still be a touch lower if desired. And the foreparts are certainly open and curved, but again don’t look extreme. 

In some ways it reminds me of my Steven Hitchcock jackets, in that I noted that cut is a subtler version of A&S in almost every regard. This has a similar relationship to other Neapolitans

There is a lot to recommend such a style, whether English or Neapolitan. Both are building blocks on which to found a personal style - rather than a strong style in themselves. 

Finally, the experience. 

I don’t think I have to say much about the service at Jean-Manuel Moreau. The comments on our introductory article were enough. They might be the most effusive ever on PS.

I’ll just briefly say that I was measured in Paris, had one fitting in Florence and one in London, and then picked up the final suit. Jean-Manuel and Nicholas were pleasant and efficient throughout. 

The fit was also good at the first fitting (so perhaps more down to JMM’s model at Orazio, rather than his local workshop in Paris) and the only major thing we changed in terms of style was the lining. 

This was initially a mid-brown, but that showed through too much on the back (linen being a little see through, and the lining only being in the top of the back). So we swapped it for the striped cream shown here. 

For a conclusion, I'd refer you to the top of this piece. I'd just say that I'm very glad Jean-Manuel visits London (or will do, when it's possible). And on the basis of this, he is highly recommended.

For more on Jean-Manuel Moreau tailoring, the products and style, see our introductory article here

Made-to-measure suits start at €2400, and jackets €1800. Made-to-measure shirts start at €240.

The cloth of the suit is Irish linen 10z, 201001 from Holland & Sherry. I’ll cover more about cream linen, its variants, uses and drawbacks, in a subsequent post.

Other items shown: Bespoke white-linen shirt from D’Avino, olive-green grenadine tie from Drake’s and bespoke oxfords from Masaru Okuyama.

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
112 Comments
Oldest
Newest
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Anonymous

Lovely suit!

Anonymous

What’s the creasing like on the 10oz linen?

Sam

Simon,

Missing “not” in this sentence? “Yet it certainly does feel or look big”

It’s a great looking suit, but… I always feel so on edge in this sort of colour. After a couple of wears I’d probably have it looking like Jackson Pollock collage of coffee, red wine and grass stains. More power to you if you can make it work, though.

Nick

I see why that would be a concern, that being said, Alan See was wearing a Liverano cream linen on one of the recent instagram/youtube clips, that was heavily worn and Alan said it had been caught in the rain numerous times, and yet it looked amazing. It gave off quite an artistic vibe I thought. Just goes to show that well-made clothes, even if heavily worn and even stained will still look great.

Darryl

I have increasigly been attracted to getting something along these lines, so it’s lovely to see.
I presume when you say ‘Yet it certainly does feel or look big’, that this was typo?
Not sure about the trouser lenght. I know you mentioned it could do with an extra centimetre, and that this is very much a matter of personal taste, but to me the side and back views, look markedly short.

Jason

This looks seriously good.
Along with style and quality, £ per wear is a key criteria for me and I think this is how these MTMs may reel me in.
Along with the rest of the world, I don’t wear tailoring as much as I used to and the quality improvement in MTM is becoming increasingly appealing.

Anonymous

Sorry to be a stickler but there’s a few typos in this article. Do you not spell check prior to posting? Its something I notice more and more in online media and it annoys me slightly.

Anonymous

It’s not its

Matt H

You should have wrote “there’re a few typos”, not “there’s a few typos”.

Edward Nigma

You should have written “written”, not “wrote”.

David

I must say that as much as I like Simon and his writing, not to mention his personality and truthfulness, the number of typos to be found in every other article is annoying, especially when we spend so much time emphasizing such things as finishing and neatness of work. I do think your articles would benefit from that little extra attention. The great content you provide us with week after week certainly deserves it.

Anonymous

I’ve always been fascinated how the shape of the wearer, rather than cut or fit, can make such a difference to the way something looks.

Assuming this jacket is made using the same block as those JMM himself is wearing in the previous post about his business, the visual difference is substantial.

Strong shoulders, a broad chest and back, compared to your sloping shoulders, rather slim chest and hollow back, makes for a very different outcome.

By the way, could you please confirm the cloth reference? I cant find it in the H&S book, although I imagine it is their South Pacific cream?

Thanks!

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

You are correct, the book has been updated and the new reference is 2019114 colour Ivory Solid.

Thanks

Anonymous

Funny as I was thinking the same.

I’m 6’1″, 44″ chest, 35″ waist, weigh about 86kgs, so I would expect to look more like JM wearing this.

Matthew V

Lovely suit. I would be interested to hear how this compares with Anglo Italian MTM, which I think you are intending to try and for, which I have personally been very pleased with. This suit is via a well known workshop / tailor, albeit at a higher price.
I am sure we all look forward to being able to wear tailoring again….

Andreas

Looks great; if this was dark green, it would probably be my ideal summer suit. I doubt that a suit in a colour this light would survive more than two summers, unless you never eat or drink while wearing it, and you’re very careful about where you put your elbows and bum, which doesn’t sound very relaxing.

Stanford Chiou

Looks great! Is this meant to be a replacement for your Kent, Haste & Lachter?

Eneko

Sorry Simon,

The shoes are from? I have not been able to read.

Congratulation for the Post, like always.

Greatings from Spain

Nicholas Kyriacou

Hi Simon, could you wear the jacket on it’s own? If so, what trousers and shirt would you pair it with? If you have covered this in a previous article I’d be grateful if you could refer me to it.

Nicholas Kyriacou

Great, look forward to it.

Lance

The Man From Del Monte, he say YES!! Very good, Simon

Peter

This is timely because I’m currently thinking about ordering an Ivory linen.

How do you feel the H&S compares to the WBill? I’ve heard raves about the WBill linen offerings and have not tried either.

Daniel Ippolito

Beautiful suit; well-proportioned and flattering, except for the short trousers.

Markymark

I make you right, I’m not feeling the trouser length.

YR

Hi Simon,
Great article and I am glad on the renewed focus on MTM.
Couple of questions:
Wanted to know, at this price point, what would be the pros and cons of using JMM vs entry-level bespoke like Whitcomb and Shaftesbury Classic Bespoke option in terms of fit, quality, style and price to quality ratio? Both are effectively similarly priced.
Thanks

Robin

So for the same price(€2400) ….. would you recommend this MTM or a bespoke ?

In other words is this better than a €2400 bespoke?

P.S. very much welcome the increased writing around MTM . I’m sure it appeals to a wider audience.

YR

Thanks for your answer Simon. I guess, the next question would be if we then how does it compare to Neapolitan (or Italian) entry-level bespoke which are similarly priced like Solito or Vergallo (think all around €2,500 so pretty similar)? Interesting as I have done suits with both and would like to understand how do you think the fit/quality of work etc compares given same price point. Thanks

Adam

As with the Cornacchia suit, I really appreciate that this is something that is in a price range that I would be willing to purchase. And I quite like the style – so I’ll definitely keep it in my mind if I decide to go ahead with another bespoke purchase.
You mentioned 2 fittings – were these basted/forward fittings, or just alterations on an otherwise completed suit? MTM with 2 fittings sounds an awful lot closer to bespoke than my previous MTM experience, which was the delivery of a completed suit after 1 measurement session.

limekiln

That’s a lovely suit. Selecting a lighter weight linen is surely a great test of how good a tailor can be, especially regarding the jacket.
But the trousers, indeed too short. I think you’d get the right effect if you opted for a ½” (or less) military hem. I really hate the way trousers hang out at the back when they’re slightly short and also slightly full. I am a fan of the military hem for exactly this reason – few would even notice the slant but many would notice as clean a finish at the back as at the front! FWIW my own tailor also suggested this approach when I asked him to shorten sleeves of a sports jacket where the shortening ate too far into the (non-opening) line of buttons at the back (my arms are comically short). It made his job easier, and the clean look of the break just above the wrist to show a bit of shirt cuff remains (just like yours in the photos).

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Just want to alert you to a minor typo. You wrote: “But you can’t see something of them in my two recent posts on summer smart/casual” when I think you meant to say “But you CAN….”

Please keep up the great articles. They are the highlights of my morning every MWF.

Cheers

Justin

Hi Simon- beautiful fabric. So beautiful that is almost has me looking past how seldom I would personally have an opportunity To wear a cream linen suit! Looking forward to your piece on separating.

Quick question on your tie- is that 9 cm? I can never seem to get quite that strong of a dimple on the typical Drakes width. Thanks.

Otávio Silva

Lovely suit, Simon. I would much prefer a suit like this in olive or taupe rather than cream for a first linen suit, but I can see the appeal for someone who already has other linen suits in his wardrobe. May I ask the length of the back seam on thejacket? Are those sleeves made deliberately longer to account for wrinkling? How would you feel about the same color/fabric in a 13oz weight?

Thank you.

Roger Seegobin

It’s a great looking suit, and it fits you very well, as summer wear its propositions are well, not too close fitting.
I love the detail of the cuff, now I don’ know if the buttons open, the reason for this, it looks great with a long sleeves shirt, but if you were to wear a short sleeves polo which is a summer look with this type of suit, and you couldn’t pull the sleeves up, I think the jacket will look a bit odd.
The pants are fitting well ” new “, it should have been a slight bit longer, what will happen, as you wear the suit, it will crease behind the knees, and further up the legs, so the length will shorten, just the nature of the fabric.
Be a bit brave, pop a color square in the jacket pocket, after all it’s summer.
It’s is a great looking, and fitting suit, kudos to Jean – Manuel Moreau.

Paul F

Enough said. Jean-Manuel and Nicolas provide top service, stylistic advice and a pleasant environment to talk clothing (“parler chiffons”)

J.

Looks great! Wearing the jacket on its own with grey wool trousers would look cool too if you ask me.

A technical question Simon..
When I see bespoke jackets on a person I’m often intrigued how beautifull the lapels and collor stays in place while the person is moving around. This staying in place while moving.. can that be achieved with mtm? If yes, is it achieved with this suit? Thanks very much.

Ravi Singh

Simon – lovely to see another review of a suit; as the most expensive item (typically) in a wardrobe it has to be a carefully considered purchase and these reviews really allow others to see what is out there – whether to compare with their own garments or if they are looking for a new tailor. Also lovely to see continued coverage of a mid range of pricing with high quality – something I think resonates strongly with offerings that you have provided through your collaborations.
I also like the combination of the tie and the shoes; they really work very well together.
Look forward to more.

Anonymous

Great suit Simon.
On another point your shirt collar looks excellent.How high is it at the back,I guess it is perhaps over 4cm?And the length of your collar points,8cm?Thanks,for the info.It will help me when I go to a shirtmaker.

R Abbott

Looks like a lovely suit how do you compare the quality – and the value – of getting a top of the line MTM suit (such as this one, by Moreau) with a lower tier but fully bespoke suit such as by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury or Graham Browne, which is significantly cheaper?

Also, in the case of a premier MTM outfit like Moreau, is there a reason to expect that the second suit would be even better than the first (as you might expect in the case of a bespoke suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury?)

Ben

Contrary to your impressions, I did immediately notice that this piece is cut more generously. It’s bulkier than my preference but connotes a breeziness appropriate for a summer suit. The fit looks very good though I do wonder if it’s easier to get right on a roomier suit than one that lies closer to the body.

Daniel R Estrada

Does JMM do a 3 button/two button roll or just a two button?

Matt

Regarding your JMM appraisal, can you please give me examples for my own education as to how the English, French and Northern Italians do finishing better than Neapolitans? I have always been blown away with the handwork and overall finishing of Neapolitans vs my British bespoke garments.

Thank you

PS…I love JMM and Nico, they are incredible!

limekiln

Simon, I’m fixed on grenadine ties and it looks like yours is a loose weave (garza grossa) unlined tie. If so, do you find it as susceptible as they contend it is to pulling? And regarding the absence of lining, the second-to-last photo shows what I really don’t like with the unlined option – a clear view of the folds on the back of the tie. The tie looks excellent in all photos, except this one where (honestly) it looks terrible. Did it look as bad in real life? Did you specifically want an unlined tie, and if so why?

Alex

Lovely suit, Simon.
Is it half canvassed?
With a piece in linen, given the lack of structure / drape in the fabric how much structure would you recommend when having it made? Ie padding, canvas etc.
Apologies if I got the terms wrong or mixed up.

Tony

I will of course defer to your much more informed view but I have to say I think the trouser length, for me, would make them unwearable. I’m surprised this wasn’t picked up during the fitting process?

Emerging Genius

I love suits. I used to wear a suit to work all the time.

But I wonder about its future. It’s almost an anachronism now. I have a wardrobe containing suits and mant blazers which are hardly ever worn now. This is especially prevalent in the “new normal.”

I would suggest, as beautiful as these garments are, their days are almost over.

Adrian Masterson

Matt, I note your correct use of the plural. However, I wonder if it would have been more correct to say “he should have written” rather than “he should have wrote”? Just a harmless comment, not intended to provoke irritation.
Regards, Adrian

In the meantime, I think it’s an elegant suit but I find linen so hard to wear.

Adrian Masterson

Looking again at the suit, may I suggest that while the collar is good the rest of the back is somewhat untidy and perhaps more significantly, the trouser legs are just slightly too short. Once the wearer has sat down a couple of times and developed the usual “accordion pleating” behind the knees, then the length of the trousers will definitely look too short.

Best wishes, Adrian

Anonymous

Simon can you recommend any specific swatch(s) for my first staple, odd casual spring jacket? Something very versatile.

I live in Los Angeles and it’s quite hot. What oz. should it be?

I have everything measured with my tailor and all I need is the cloth… which I have no clue about so i’m hoping for your recommendation for a color/pattern? Something specific would be nice.

Matt H

I really like it.
Regarding the length of the trousers: if anything they’re a bit longer than JMM often wears, including in suits, so perhaps he had some influence on the length of yours?

There’s actually a few pictures of him on Instagram wearing what looks like an identical suit, dated June 15th and April 21st 2018 and May 27th 2017.

Dan James

I agree with so many of the comments above, a beautiful suit. Perhaps my favourite one yet. The cut and fit the jacket looks superb and I am most jealous. Obviously the heavier Irish linen let it keep its shape even after a few hours.
As you have said above the trousers are little on the short side and I would go for maybe 1.5-2cm longer with a smaller cuff but that is just personal preference-each to his own. They remind me of the way my Dad always had his trousers, just to the top of his shoes. I can also see the appeal of having them shorter in hotter weather so as to aid cooling.
I also like the combination of weights of linen in the suit, shirt and pocket square which balance out very nicely.
I’ve just had a dark brown Irish linen jacket altered to fit my long arms and will now search for trousers to go with it: cream or grey. I know you don’t really approve of mixing different colour linens but I’m still considering them before I decide.

Joe

Hi Simon,

I am also thinking about MTM options for my first “bespoke” suit. Since I’m working in relaxed office where suit it not worn, I try to find most all around suit which would cover my other life activities (ideally all year round): casual wedding, funeral, dressed up evenings with lady, sportive dressed up events with denim.
All other things being standard – single breasted, notch lapel, natural shoulder, I have trouble deciding cloth and pockets configuration.
I was thinking about heavier navy Fresco cloth which breaks down in separates quite good.
Patched pockets goes well will relaxed office and wedding or breaking down in separates. But is it not too pretentious for job interviews or funeral?
Jetted/flapped, covers both later options, but is bit up tight for casual events or when worn as separates.

Long story short – any suggestion on cloth (fresco being worsted right?) and pockets configuration, for most versatile suit option?

Thanks,
Joe

Ian F

A very nice looking suit. Lots of comments about the trousers being too short but I’m not sure that just lengthening them would help much. In this post and the summer casual one they seem to already rest on, or close to, your instep but stand quite a long way off the back of the shoe (horizontally). It could be that they might have benefited from a little more adjustment for a full seat to stop them clinging to the front of the leg and hanging off the back. Just a thought.

Alexander

Hello Simon!
1)I am big fan of this colour for a linen suit. How would you think about switching the white shirt for a blue one? Just to set the suit apart from the skin-tone? Probably a denim would be very effective in destroying all colonial associations with this suit.
2) I guess this suit-colour would never be business-appropriate in London. Maybe more so in Italy? Nevertheless: The climate situation in central Europe (summers in big cities have become a challenge for business-wardrobes) makes me think of breaking the rules in an act of self-defence here. What are your thoughts on this, if I may ask?
Thank you!

Adrian John Masterson

Simon,

I stand corrected. Thank you.

Regards, Adrian

Nico

Though I would not find an occasion to wear it, the suit is highly appealing. Your updated version of Tom Wolfe? Especially like it in the front/profile /back shots, background full of character and contrast.
Some points if you care to comment?
Linen shirt under linen suit?
Whiteish socks? I know you favor same colour as trousers and the reason, but cannot avoid thinking there should be an exception with such trouser hue.
Great tie colour. I am fancying it increasingly. Is it what Drakes calls “Khaki” nowadays rather than “Olive”?

Anthony

Beautiful suit and exquisite colour combination as well with the brown brogue and muted green tie.

Anonymous

Does the jacket work as a seperate like the trousers? In generell, is the linen for a sports jacket different from the linen typically used for suits?

Anonymous

What are the most versatile colours for a linen suit when wearing the jacket and trousers as separates?

Anonymous

What trouser colours would you combine with a linen jacket in natural (such as Harrison’s Mersolair 28109 of your linen trousers)?

Are lighter colours like natural or your cream linen here more difficult than a little darker colours like your tan herringbone jacket from caliendo?

Bernie

Hi Simon,

Breathtaking suit! May I know why you went for the lighter weight H&S instead of the heavier 13oz W Bill? Does W Bill have the same color equivalent? Thank you.

Bernie

Thank you – I do like this ivory cream color a lot and it works so well as a odd jacket as you so greatly demonstrate.

Alexander

Luca Rubinacci just pointed out this week, that linen as a fabric is not ideal in a suit for temperatures above 25 degrees celsius (he was referring to his half lined suit from irish linen). That was surprising for me. Certainly the weave is more important than the fabric as we learned from you and the guys from the Armoury. Do you have any thoughts on this opposition against linen in the high heat? Thank you very much in advance!

Rups

Simon did you ask them to make that jacket looser and longer than they usually do? This is quite different from what Ive seen from JMM elsewhere. They seem to usually make trimmer shorter closer fitting jackets which seems to be popular among French tailors.

Dash Riprock.

Trousers to short .Shoes to formal, should be Loafers tan or suede.tie not properly knotted. Only Gianni agnelli can get away with that. Suit so so .All in all 5/10.

SM

Beautiful suit.

I’m really keen to purchase a MTM suit but wondered if they’re offering a remote service? I would email them but I can’t seem to find any contact details or a functional website.

Anonymous

Hi Simon

Many thanks for your detailed descriptions here! I find them most insightful. It amazed me how versatile the trousers are.

Coincidentally, I am currently considering having a suit made from Harrison‘s Mersolair 28109. I think (!) that the colour is close to what you are wearing here. Do you have a view?

Many thanks,
M.

Anonymous

Thank you, Simon, for the swift reply. It is much appreciated.

I had seen that article, thanks, but somehow was unsure whether the picture or not the picture showed the fabric in question (despite your explicit mention of the maker and # in the text).

That aside, since I have already ordered the fabric, would you be so kind as to share some potential advice on what to consider when having a suit made? Do I need to bear in mind anything in particular. I am deliberately not asking a specific question (not out of laziness, I am just curious to hear your instant, off-the-cuff thoughts!).

Many thanks,
M.

Anonymous

That video is very useful, thanks! It is always good to return to the basics to save oneself from getting lost in too much detail.

My question, I think, relates more specifically to the linen in question, really. Since you have seen and worn the fabric, do you think there are noteworthy disadvantages to it and can those be mitigated during the tailoring process?

One idea, to give an example, was whether it could make sense to use lining to give the suit more structure as a means to help counter the linen’s creasing (the obvious counterargument being that more lining is somewhat counterintuitive when using linen, given the temperatures linen is likely to be worn in). That said, I am assuming excessive creasing here – and I might well be wrong!

Thanks again for your time.
M.

Anonymous

Thank you, appreciate it.