Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of formality

Read MoreMay 29th 2020

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe.  This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks - three different ways of doing ...

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of formality

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe.  This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks - three different ways of doing ...

May 29th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Read MoreJun 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jun 10th 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

Read MoreMay 20th 2020

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe.  We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of de...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe.  We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of de...

May 20th 2020

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

Read MoreJun 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Jun 1st 2020

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s (or, what is heritage summer?)

Read MoreMar 11th 2019

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was what I ended up talking about ...

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s (or, what is heritage summer?)

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was what I ended up talking about ...

Mar 11th 2019

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

Read MoreAug 3rd 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially from Spain, Italy and German...

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially from Spain, Italy and German...

Aug 3rd 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian

Read MoreMar 16th 2020

The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth.  That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made.  The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian

The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth.  That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made.  The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...

Mar 16th 2020

The summer tie

Read MoreAug 17th 2018

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

The summer tie

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

Aug 17th 2018

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

Read MoreDec 24th 2018

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...

Dec 24th 2018

Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granata, Marol, Baudoin & Lange

Read MoreJul 12th 2019

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky.  It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where yo...

Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granata, Marol, Baudoin & Lange

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky.  It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where yo...

Jul 12th 2019

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

Read MoreMay 6th 2019

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...

May 6th 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Read MoreApr 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale ...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale ...

Apr 24th 2019

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

Read MoreApr 17th 2019

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...

Apr 17th 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

Read MoreMar 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Caccioppoli...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Caccioppoli...

Mar 22nd 2019

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

Read MoreJun 7th 2019

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the warme...

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the warme...

Jun 7th 2019

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling Fresco

Read MoreSep 3rd 2018

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling Fresco

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...

Sep 3rd 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Read MoreApr 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in any of the pieces. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would rapidly be out of date. S...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in any of the pieces. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would rapidly be out of date. S...

Apr 16th 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Read MoreMay 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to se...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to se...

May 2nd 2018

Summer checked jacket - at the Dalcuore Rakishman day

Read MoreJun 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in time for Pi...

Summer checked jacket - at the Dalcuore Rakishman day

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in time for Pi...

Jun 29th 2018

Summer dressing

Read MoreMay 25th 2020

Summer dressing

May 25th 2020

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

Read MoreJun 18th 2018

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same again, but celebrating all that is...

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same again, but celebrating all that is...

Jun 18th 2018

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

Read MoreJun 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back...

Jun 8th 2020

The Coronavirus: We will survive because we care

Read MoreMay 13th 2020

These are dark and uncertain times for businesses everywhere, in particular fashion.  Who will care about their clothes if they’re at home the whole time? Who will spend large amounts of money on clothing when the economy is so uncertain?  Two bi...

The Coronavirus: We will survive because we care

These are dark and uncertain times for businesses everywhere, in particular fashion.  Who will care about their clothes if they’re at home the whole time? Who will spend large amounts of money on clothing when the economy is so uncertain?  Two bi...

May 13th 2020

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

Read MoreJun 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in t...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in t...

Jun 11th 2018

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 17th 2020

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Apr 17th 2020