Why do my flannels keep wearing through?
I was reading a piece in The Times last month which hailed the flannel trouser as the new trend in menswear. It’s funny how the mainstream can sometimes take a long time to catch up - it must be 15 years since the growth of ‘classic mens...
Why do my flannels keep wearing through?
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Looking at mtm or rtw mid grey flannel trousers. Does anyone have existence with both Cavour and Besnard? Besnard gives a ton of options online and seem reputable. If there are other similar shops please let me know....
Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review
I’ve settled into a bit of a rhythm with Korean tailors Assisi now. I love their soft-but-elegant style, I trust their fit and execution, and I know their double-breasted in particular is something I wear the hell out of. So my next commissio...
Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review
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I think they can look very nice Paul, metal buttons are just more of a trad blazer look and so not the style everyone wants. I know others do it well, but personally I prefer something more subtle...
Unmilled Coarser Heavier Worsted Wool Twill Trousers
Not everyone likes flannels . They can bag a bit, at least more than the worsteds guys are used to wearing to the office. That just means a press now and again, but hey some people are very lazy busy. If flannels aren’t an option, and it&rsqu...
Unmilled Coarser Heavier Worsted Wool Twill Trousers
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I've only tried it as trousers David, but I would say it's not as warm as flannel, while being a little warmer than most modern suitings...
Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series , which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...
Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
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The Golden Bale feels a little lighter perhaps, certainly smoother. That heavier Fox would probably feel it. No it's definitely a personal thing...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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Only that it would usually have a drier handle and more matte surface, which might feel less business-y...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
My Brioni jacket in a cream beige wool/silk/linen Wool/silk/linen blends have been a favourite for summer jackets for many years, although in the UK they only started to be offered about 10 years ago. More recently, English mills have also started ...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
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It's a vintage piece Rob - see article covering it here...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I would say that the greater risk is the jacket appears a little showy or dressy with mother of pearl. It can be nice, but horn is usually better and you can have more flecks and contrast, or a slightly lighter shade, if...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
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Hey Jack, I really don't know I'm afraid - I would have guessed the material, but if that's the same then I have no idea...
Video: How long should a jacket be?
This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...
Video: How long should a jacket be?
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No problem Liam. On the shortening, I think it's best for me not to give you numbers, as it is so hard to tell from some photos, but rather for you to consider the points in this video and assess it yourself. For the sle...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
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Yes it's a good point Greyson, we can try and do that. We should have more of the cloths in the showroom going forward as well, so that will make it easier...
Video: How a jacket should fit
This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...
Video: How a jacket should fit
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Thanks Simon....
A guide to high-twist bunches
This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
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Thank you for your reply and advice....
A guide to linen bunches
This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...
A guide to linen bunches
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Good morning, summer is almost here!! To my taste, Ariston Napoli makes the beautiest delave linen. Both, color and texture. And only 9 to 10 oz, very practical for warmer climates. They also drape fine....
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
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Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, and even Sa...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
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I don't know I'm afraid John...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
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You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....
The coat project 2
My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...
The coat project 2
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i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...
